Sportsman Aviation Paramount 61 3D User manual

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Paramount 61 3D
Paramount 61 3D
Product Number 127560
Assembly Instructions
Specifications:
• Wing Span: 54 Inches - Wing Area: 795 Square Inches
• Length: 57 Inches
• Weight Ready to Fly: 5.75—6.5 Lb . (depending on equipment used)
• Control Functions: Rudder, Elevator, Throttle, Aileron
• Radio: 4 Channel / 5 Servos (Standard Size Components)
• Power: .61 2 stroke - .91 4 stroke
The Paramount 61 3D isdistributed exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors 18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92708
All contents ©Global Hobby Distributors Version 1.0June 2003

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Safety Warnings …………………………………….. Page 2
Finding Help and the AMA …………………………. Page 2
Our Guarantee ………………………………………. Page 2
Section 1– Introduction ……………………….. Page 3
Section 2 - Recommendations ………………. Page 4
Section 3 - Kit Contents ………………….…… Page 5
Section 4 - Metric Conversion Chart ………… Page 6
Section 5 - Covering Material ……………...… Page 6
Section 6 - Assembly Sequence …………….. Page 7
Section 7: Aerobatic Trim Correction Chart .. Page 25
Section 8 - Replacement Parts …………….... Page 25
Section 9 - Pre-Flight Safety Checks …..…… Page 26
Product Evaluation Form ………………………….. Page 27
SAFETY WARNING
This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage
to property. NEVER fly near power lines or busy roads. Fly only in open areas and preferably at a
dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your airplane be-
fore its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your
radio control system and any other components purchased separately.
To make your modeling experience safer and far more enjoyable, we recommend that you get experi-
enced, knowledgeable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has infor-
mation about flying clubs in your area, most with qualified flight instructors at no charge. We recommend
that you join the largest modeler’s organization in the world, the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA).
AMA publishes a very informative and helpful monthly magazine, provides model aviation insurance
coverage, and offers many benefits to make flying R/C models more enjoyable. If there is no hobby shop
in your area, the AMA will be able to help you locate a flying field near you, and put you in touch with
model flying clubs in your area with qualified instructors.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie IN 47302-9252
[phone]
www.modelaircraft.org
FINDING HELP AND THE AMA
OUR GUARANTEE
Global Hobby guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date
of purchase. This does not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no
case shall Global Hobby's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. In that Global Hobby has
no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for
any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using
the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
Visit our website at http://www.globalhobby.com for more information on the
Sportsman Aviation line of R/C models and accessories!

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SECTION 1: INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on your purchase of the Paramount 61 3D !
♦ You’ll enjoy full aerobatic capability with any 4 channel radio system, and all-out wild 3D Tourna-
ment style maneuvers using the latest advanced radio technology!
♦ The Paramount 61 is designed for stable and predictable maneuvers and flight characteristics.
♦ Intermediate pilots will have the perfect plane capable of advancing your skills to Tournament level!
♦ Advanced pilots can make full use of all the latest radios, techniques, and maneuvers!
♦ Huge control surfaces and full-airfoil aileron profile delivers unmatched control power at all speeds.
♦ The Paramount 61 is built strong yet ultra-light for full vertical maneuver capability.
♦ Built from top quality balsa, plywood, and lightweight fiberglass.
♦ Covered in real iron-on film in a striking 4 color opaque/transparent color scheme.
♦ You’ll enjoy fast, easy assembly with simple instructions, detailed photos and graphics.
ABOUT THIS MANUAL
A great deal of time and thought has gone into your Paramount 61 3D, so please read through the in-
structions once completely, then go back and follow each step in turn to complete your model. Please
read through each step before beginning, marking a little check next to each step as you finish to keep
track of your progress. Although the model takes only a few evenings to complete, please do not rush
through the process. Doing each step properly the first time will save hours of frustration and wasted
time later.
We recommend having several small containers to hold the various small parts, screws, washers, etc.
after you open the plastic bags to prevent misplacing or mixing up the parts. If you do not have a utility
workbench, cover your work table with a cloth or thick paper to prevent damage.
Before you begin final assembly of your model, please take a few moments to inspect all of the parts for
damage during shipment, or any manufacturing defects. If you find damage or defects, or if you still have
questions about properly assembling this model after reading the instructions thoroughly, please contact
us at the address below:
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
Phone [phone] Fax: [phone] E-mail: [e-mail]
To serve your needs better, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us.
Your email address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive
free updates and tech notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if
applicable) and other important information about your product as it becomes available.
Global Hobby Distributors does not sell, trade, or rent your personal information to others.
Your privacy is important to us.

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SECTION 2: RECOMMENDATIONS
Global Hobby Distributors has gone to great effort to provide the R/C hobbyist with a top quality product
giving years of service. We strongly recommend you use only the highest quality components and sup-
plies to complete and operate your Paramount 61 3D:
Power
Magnum .61 2 Stroke Glow Engine (or)
Magnum .91 4 Stroke Glow Engine
Double X Blue Silicone Fuel Line
Radio Equipment
Hitec RCD Electron 6 Dual Conversion Receiver …………... #759134
Cirrus 4.8V NiCd Battery ………………..……………………. #444603
Cirrus Switch Harness w/Charge Cord ………………………. #444733
Du-Bro ¼” Protective Foam Rubber ………………………….. #513
Standard size ball bearing servos with nylon gears recommended
Adhesives, Tools and Building Supplies
Kwik-Bond #1 Thin CA Glue ………………………………….. #887500
Kwik-Bond #2 Thick CA Glue ………………………………….. #887510
Kwik-Set CA Glue Activator ……………………………………. #887540
Kwik-Bond 5 Minute Epoxy …………………………………... #887560
Kwik-Bond 30 Minute Epoxy …………………………………... #887565
Excel Model Razor Knife (and extra blades) …………..…….. #692801
Small and medium Phillips head screwdrivers
Small and medium Flat head screwdrivers
Scissors
Hand Drill and assorted small drill bits
Small mechanic’s pliers, Needle Nose pliers
Adhesive tape
Sandpaper, sanding blocks, emery boards
Epoxy mixing sticks, mixing cups
Rubbing alcohol, paper towels
Acetone or MEK solvent

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SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS
Paramount 61 3D_ major airframe parts:
 Fuselage assembly (with hatch)
 Fiberglass Cowling
 Right Wing panel assembly (with aileron)
 Left Wing panel assembly (with aileron)
 Stabilizer / Elevators assembly
 Rudder
The Paramount 61 3D also contains:
 4 Threaded Wire pushrods
 Balsa Elevator pushrod
 Plain Wire pushrod
 Outer Throttle pushrod tube
 Inner Throttle pushrod wire
 2 Nylon/Glass Engine Mounts
 Covered Balsa Dorsal Fin
 Plywood Servo Tray
 2 Dowels
 2 Plywood Blocks
 Plywood Wing Joiner
 Plywood Wing Doubler
 2 Wing Bolts
 2 Axle Bolts
 4 HexHead Machine Screws
 4 HexHead Bolts
 6 Blind Nuts
 Large, Medium And Small Washers
 Metal Tailwheel Bracket
 2 Wheel Collars
 Pull-Pull Cable
 2 Servo Cable Connectors
 2 Clevis cable Connectors
 4 Crimp Tubes
 2 E-Clips, 2 Washers, EZ Connector
 5 set Screws
 Fuel tank Kit
 Aluminum Landing Gear
 Heat Shrink Tubing
 4 Large Control Horns and Backplates
 4 Horn Connectors
 3 Pushrod Keepers
 6 Clevises
 2 MediumControl Horns and Backplates
 4 MediumWood Screws
 4 Short Wood Screws
 8 Machine Screws (for Large Control Horns)
 16 Servo Mount Wood Screws
 4 Small Washer-Head Hatch Screws
 2 Axle Nuts
 4 Plain Nuts
 4 Self-Locking Nuts (for Engine Mounting)
 Wheels, Wheel Pants
 Pre-Built Tailwheel Assembly

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The fasteners and hardware used in the Paramount 61 3D is Metric, and most U. S. tools and hardware
are SAE Standard. To convert dimensions and tool sizes if necessary, please use this chart:
⇒ To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x25.4 = mm
⇒ To convert millimeters into inches: Millimeters ÷25.4 = in
1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm
1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4.0mm
3/16" = 4.8mm
1/4" = 6.4mm
3/8" = 9.5mm
1/2" = 12.7mm
5/8" = 15.9mm
3/4" = 19.0mm
1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm
6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762.0mm
36" = 914.4mm
SECTION 4: METRIC CONVERSION
Your Paramount 61 3D is covered with a high quality iron-on film, just like what you would use on indi-
vidually built R/C models. The covering is applied and shrunk tightly at the factory, however because of
changes in temperature is it possible that some wrinkles may re-appear. To remove any wrinkles that
may have occurred during shipping, please use the following procedure:
Use a good quality model covering iron (we recommend
Global Hobby Heat Sealing Iron #360900). Heat the iron to
medium heat setting only, and allow the iron to stabilize at
this setting. Carefully run the iron over the film covering, al-
lowing the heat to shrink the wrinkles away. If wrinkles re-
main, raise the temperature of the iron a very small amount
at a time, and re-shrink the areas necessary. Use only the
minimum amount of heat needed, and remove the iron im-
mediately when the covering becomes taut. Too much heat,
or leaving the iron on any particular area for too long will re-
sult inburning a hole in the covering.
Although it is unlikely to happen, please also make a thorough
check for any warps or twists that have developed in the wing, tail and, rudder structures at this time. If
there are any warps, use the following method to correct them before assembling the model:
Have a helper hold the warped part firmly, flat on a table, with the warped portion sticking out over the
edge. Gently twist the part until it is no longer warped and the film covering shows wrinkles. Be careful
not to break the part being repaired! Using the same technique for removing the wrinkles above, use the
model covering iron to remove the wrinkles while you and your helper are holding the part straight.
When the wrinkles on both sides have been shrunk away while the part is being held straight, the part
should remain straight when released. Occasionally it may be necessary to twist the part “just a little fur-
ther than straight”, shrink out the wrinkles, and then the part will relax back into the correct position.
SECTION 5 COVERING MATERIAL CARE AND MAINTENANCE

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SECTION 6: ASSEMBLING THE PARAMOUNT 61 3D
Step 1: Install Aileron Horns
Locate the 2 small gray control horns. Using the control horns
as a guide, mark the location of the screw holes on each ai-
leron, so that the horn will be directly behind the outboard edge
of the servo opening, and the row of holes in the horn as close
to the front of the aileron as possible. When satisfied, drill 1/16”
holes into the wood block built into the aileron, and apply one
drop of thin CA glue to strengthen the holes. When the glue has
set, install the horns with the provided medium length wood
screws.
Step 2: Glue Aileron Hinges
Using a very sharp hobby knife, remove the plastic film cover-
ing at the location of each aileron hinge slot on the ailerons and
the rear edge of the wing, so that a small strip of wood is ex-
posed for the glue to soak into. Insert the EZ-hinges into the
slots and slide the ailerons into place against the wing. Press
the ailerons against the trailing edge of the wing, and check
that the ailerons operate smoothly and without binding. When
satisfied, apply two drops of thin CA glue to both sides of each
hinge.
Step 3: Lengthen Aileron Servo Wires
It will be necessary to lengthen the aileron servo wires to be
able to connect them to a “Y-Harness” and the receiver. We
recommend using pre-made servo extensions, although you
may lengthen the existing wires by splicing in a piece of 3-
conductor wire. If you choose servo extensions, we strongly
recommend using heat shrink tubing over the connection to
prevent the parts from vibrating loose.

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Step 4: Install Aileron Servos
Prepare your aileron servo using the rubber grommets and eye-
lets provided with your equipment. Remove the covering over
the aileron servo mount holes in the wing panels, using a
sharp blade hobby knife. Tie the end of the lengthened servo
wire to the provided pull-string, and pull the wire inside the
wing and out the access hole near the center of the wing.
Place the aileron servo in the cutout on the bottom of the wing.
If necessary, carefully enlarge the opening so the servo fits.
When satisfied, drill 1/16” holes into the plywood servo mount-
ing plates built into the wing, using the mounting holes in the
servo as a guide. Remove the servo and apply one drop of thin
CA glue to each hole to strengthen the wood.
Place the aileron servo back in position with the output arm to-
wards the rear of the wing, and install with four of the washer
head screws provided with your servos. Repeat the process to
install the other aileron servo.
Step 5: Aileron Pushrods
Locate the two threaded aileron pushrods. Install a plastic
clevis halfway onto each aileron pushrod. Remove the servo
output arms and trim off the extra portion of the arms if neces-
sary. If necessary, enlarge the holes in the arms to accept the
aileron pushrod wire.
Hook up your radio equipment, and make sure the aileron ser-
vos are centered with the stick and trim lever neutral. Install the
servo arms at 90 degrees (outboard) to the servos, then tighten
the servo arm retaining screws. Clip the clevises onto the mid-
dle hole in each aileron horn, and position the wire over the
outer holes in each servo arm. Mark the location of the wires
where they cross the holes.
Using pliers, make a 90 degree bend in each wire at the
marked point, and cut the wires leaving approximately ¼” up
from the bend. Slip the wires into the servo arm holes from be-
low, and snap the gray plastic pushrod keepers onto the wires
to prevent them from coming out of the servo arms.
Adjust the clevises until the ailerons are both perfectly neutral
with the servo centered, and then clip the clevises onto the ai-
leron horns.

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Step 6: Join Wing Panels
Tape the aileron servo wires to the wings out of the way so they
will not interfere with the wings being joined. Test fit the wing
panels together, with the plywood wing joiner installed. If nec-
essary, remove material from the edges or ends of the wing
joiner so the panels fit together perfectly. When satisfied, mix
up a batch of 5 Minute Epoxy, and coat the wing joiner, inside
of the joiner slots, and exposed wood center wing ribs.
Assemble the wings together with the joiner in place. Check to
be sure the leading and trailing edges of the wing halves are
lined up exactly. Remove excess epoxy using rubbing alcohol
or MEK and paper towels. Wrap the tape completely around the
wing joint, making sure the tape pulls the wings together tightly.
Re-check the alignment of the wing halves and exact match of
the leading and trailing edges while the epoxy is curing. When
the glue is dry, remove the tape.
Step 7: Aileron Function Check / Set Throws
Hook up your radio equipment, connecting both of the aileron
servos to a “Y-Connector”, and the Y-Connector to your re-
ceiver. Verify that moving the transmitter aileron stick to the
right moves the right aileron up and the left aileron down.
If necessary, adjust the position of the pushrod wires closer to
(or further from) the center of the servo, and/or the position of
the clevises closer or further from the ailerons, to achieve the
following aileron movements (up and down equally) :
Low Rate: 1” (for Dual Rate-capable transmitters)
High Rate: 1.75” (for Dual-Rate “high” Or non-Dual Rate Tx)
3D: 3” (for full 3D setup on Exponential-Rate Tx)
Step 8: Install Tailwheel in Rudder
Locate the tailwheel assembly and the metal tailwheel
bracket. Drill a 5/64” diameter hole ¾” into the forward edge of
the rudder, approximately 1/2 to 9/16” up from the bottom of
the rudder. Carefully cut a groove into the rudder from this hole
to the bottom edge, so the tailwheel wire can be flush with the
front edge. Make a 90 degree bend in the wire (straight rear-
ward, the same direction as the lower wire coil section is bent).
The bend should be 2 inches above the coil section. Clip off the
excess wire, leaving approximately ¾” on the bent part.
Slide the tailwheel wire through the outer hole in the tailwheel
bracket, and test-fit the wire into the rudder. Make any adjust-
ments needed so the tailwheel wire fits flush with the front of
the rudder, and the tailwheel is aligned straight with the rudder.
When satisfied, glue the wire into the tailwheel using a small
amount of 5 Minute Epoxy or thick CA.

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Step 9: Glue Rudder Hinges
Locate the two metal rudder hinges. Carefully enlarge the
slots in the rudder and the rear fuselage if necessary to allow
the hinges to be inserted and removed. Test fit the rudder and
hinges to the fuselage, and verify the rudder can be moved
easily without binding. Lengthen the slots if necessary to allow
a good fit. Remove the hinges. Apply a small drop of oil or
grease on the hinge “knuckles” to prevent glue from getting into
the hinge. DO NOT get oil or grease on the hinge “blades”
where they will be glued. Wipe away any excess oil with MEK
and a paper towel.
Note: You should not use 5 Minute Epoxy for this step because
you will need plenty of time to fully align the rudder hinges. Use
15 or 30 Minute Epoxy.
Using a model builder’s “glue syringe” apply a small amount of
15 or 30 Minute Epoxy into the hinge slots in the rudder and
fuselage, and scrape away all excess epoxy from the outside of
the slot. Apply a very thin film of epoxy to the hinge blades.
Carefully insert the glued hinge blades into the slots in the rud-
der, wiping away any excess glue. Make absolutely certain that
the hinge pins (hinge axis) are aligned perfectly with each
other, are at the same angle, parallel to the edge of the rudder,
and inserted into the rudder the same distance.
Now insert the rudder and hinges into the fuselage slots. Wipe
away any excess epoxy with paper towels and MEK solvent.
Verify once again that the rudder can move freely at least 45
degrees each way, without binding or resistance. Make any
adjustments to the hinges, and re-test the rudder. This align-
ment is critical and must be done before the epoxy sets. When
satisfied, set the fuselage and rudder on your workbench with
the rudder supported so it cannot move while the epoxy is cur-
ing. Continually check to be sure the rudder hinge alignment
stays correct until the glue has set.
Step 10: Install Sub-Dorsal Fin
Carefully cut away the plastic film covering where the small
sub-dorsal fin will mount. Test fit the sub-dorsal into place,
and mark around the edges onto the fuselage with a pen. Care-
fully cut away the marked strips of covering from the fuselage,
exposing the wood for a good glue joint. Remove the covering
from the tab on the sub-dorsal fin where it will contact the wood
inside the mounting slot. When satisfied, glue the sub-dorsal fin
into place using 5 Minute Epoxy or thick CA glue.

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Step 11: Attach Tailwheel Bracket
Swing the tailwheel bracket around until it is sitting on the flat
mounting area on the bottom of the sub-dorsal fin. Using the
holes in the bracket as a guide, drill two 3/64” diameter holes
into the sub-dorsal fin. Apply a drop of thin CA glue to
strengthen each hole. When dry, install two of the provided
wood screws to secure the tailwheel bracket.
Step 12: Install Rudder Control Horns
Locate two of the large threaded control horns, horn connec-
tors, machine screws, washers and nuts. Thread a horn con-
nector halfway onto each of the threaded horns, facing forward
(opposite of the base of the horn).
Place one of the horns onto the lower rudder, just above where
the tailwheel wire is glued. Align it so the hole in the horn con-
nector is directly above the rudder hinge line. Hold the horn in
place with a drop of thin CA if desired. Using the holes in the
base of the horn as a guide, drill three 1/16” holes through the
rudder.
Insert the thin machine screws through these holes, and then
slide the other threaded horn base over the screws on the op-
posite side. Install three small nuts and washers onto the ma-
chine screws, and tighten the nuts to clamp the horns onto the
rudder. When satisfied, apply one drop of thin CA glue to the
nuts to prevent them from loosening.
Step 13: Prepare Stabilizer and Fuselage
Carefully remove the covering from the fuselage over the stabi-
lizer mounting slot. Slide the stabilizer into position, with the
red side on top. Measure and verify the stabilizer is centered in
the fuselage, and that the rear edge of the stabilizer is exactly
90 degrees to the fuselage centerline. Re-check again until you
are certain the stabilizer is aligned.
When satisfied, mark the top and bottom of the stabilizer with a
pencil where it meets the fuselage. Remove the stabilizer, and
using a very sharp hobby knife cut the covering just inside of
your marked lines. Cut through the covering only, but do not cut
into the wood.
Remove the section of covering film from the center of the sta-
bilizer top and bottom.

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Step 14: Glue Stabilizer to Fuselage
Note: Remember the top of the stabilizer is red and the bottom
is blue!
Mix up a batch of 5 Minute Epoxy, and apply a medium thick-
ness film to the exposed wood at the center (top and bottom) of
the stabilizer. Slide the stabilizer into position, and then check
and re-check the alignment. Wipe away and excess glue that
has oozed out of the joint with Alcohol or MEK and paper tow-
els.
Perform another alignment check before the glue has cured.
Also check that the stabilizer is not “tilted” to one side or an-
other when looking from the rear of the fuselage. Keep check-
ing the alignment until the epoxy has set completely.
Step 15: Install Elevator Hinges
As you did with the ailerons, remove a small strip of covering
from the hinge slots in the elevator halves and stabilizer. Place
the elevator EZ hinges back into the elevator halves, and slide
them into place on the stabilizer. Make sure the elevator halves
are aligned properly, and can move at least 45 degrees each
way without binding or interference.
When satisfied, apply two drops of thin CA glue to both sides of
each hinge.
Step 16: Install Elevator Horns
Place both of the large threaded elevator control horns on the
bottom of the elevator halves, very close to the inboard ends,
and with the threaded rod portion as close to the elevator hinge
line as possible. Hold the horns in place with one drop of thin
CA glue if desired.
When satisfied with the proper position of the horns, drill 1/16”
holes through the elevator using the three holes in the horn as
a guide. Mount the elevator horns and matching backplates
using the 2mm machine screws provided. Tighten snug, but do
not crush the wood.
Thread a horn connector halfway onto each threaded horn.

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Step 17: Install Servos in Tray
Locate the plywood servo tray, your servos, and mounting
hardware. Install the rubber grommets and brass eyelets pro-
vided with your servos. If necessary, enlarge the holes in the
servo tray to fit your servos. Place the servos in position as
shown.
When satisfied, drill the servo mounting holes in the plywood
tray using the servos as a guide. Install and tighten the pro-
vided wood screws to hold the servos in place on the plywood
tray.
Step 18: Install Servo Tray in Fuselage
Apply a thick bead of 5 Minute Epoxy to the servo tray mount-
ing rails built into the fuselage sides, and install the servo tray
assembly into position.
Add more epoxy on the top of the tray where it meets the fuse-
lage sides if necessary to insure that the servo tray is mounted
solidly in the fuselage.
Step 19: Cut Rudder Cable Exits
Cut a 1½” x 1/8” wide slot on each side of the fuselage for the
rudder cable exits. The rear of the exit slots is 5 1/8” forward
of the rear edge of the fuselage.
The bottom of the slot is 5/8” above the bottom edge of the fu-
selage at the rear, and 7/8” above the bottom edge at the front.

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Step 20: Rudder Pull-Pull Cable
Note: On the pull-pull rudder system, the distance between the
cable holes used on the servo arm and the servo center, and
the distance between the rudder hinge line and the holes in
each rudder horn connector must be exactly equal.
Locate the pull-pull cable, aluminum crimp connectors, and
threaded cable connectors.
Cut the cable into two equal length pieces. Put one end through
an aluminum crimp connector, then through the hole in a
threaded cable connector, then back into the crimp connector
with a little bit sticking out of the aluminum tube and inside the
blue plastic end. Squeeze the crimp connector with pliers firmly
to crimp the cable in position. Repeat the process to attach the
other cable to the other threaded cable adapter. Thread a plas-
tic clevis halfway onto each cable connector, and snap the clev-
ises onto the rudder horn connectors. Slip the cables into the
fuselage exits and into the fuselage radio compartment. Note
that the cables cross inside the fuselage.
Insert the Z-Bend cable connectors into the outer holes in a
two-sided servo arm. Hook up your radio equipment, and cen-
ter the rudder servo. Leave the radio connected and turned on
during the pull-pull cable adjustment. Slip an aluminum crimp
connector onto the forward end of the rudder cables, then run
the cables through the Z-Bend cable connector (remember the
cables cross inside the fuselage), then back through the crimp
connector. Do not crimp yet. Repeat the process to loosely at-
tach the cable through the connector and Z-bend cable connec-
tor on the other side of the servo arm. (Remember the dis-
tances must be equal and exactly the same as the distances
between the rudder horn and the center of the rudder) Install
the servo arm onto the servo, making sure the cables cross
only once in the middle of the fuselage.
Hold the rudder in neutral position. Clamp the rudder cable
ends together next to each crimp connector at the servo, using
a hemostat clamp or strong “alligator clip”.
Once again checking to insure the rudder is held in neutral po-
sition, loosen the clamp, pull the end of one cable until all the
slack is removed, and re-clamp the cable. Repeat this on the
other side. Continue to make adjustments back and forth until
the cables are both tight, and the rudder is still clamped in neu-
tral position. When satisfied, squeeze the aluminum crimp con-
nectors with pliers to crimp the cables in place. Apply one drop
of medium CA glue to the cables in the blue plastic end for
added security. Carefully cut off the excess cable.
Adjust the horn connectors to achieve the following movement:
Low Rate: 1” (for Dual-Rate-capable transmitters)
High Rate: 2” (for non-Dual Rate transmitters)
3D Rate: 4” (for 3D using Exponential Rate transmitters)

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Step 21: Cut Elevator Pushrod Exits
Using the same technique as you did with the rudder cable ex-
its, cut the two elevator pushrod exits as shown. The rear of the
exit is 7 1/2” in front of the rear edge of the fuselage, the front
of the exit is 2” further forward, and the exit slot is 3/4” below
the stabilizer.
Step 23: Insert Elevator Pushrod
Insert the elevator pushrod into the fuselage through the hole in
the firewall, and work it back into the rear fuselage. Work the
pushrod toward the tail until you can see the threaded ends
through the elevator pushrod exits. Reach into the exits using
small forceps, small screwdrivers, etc and pull the threaded
ends out through the exits. (Slipping a loop of string into each
of the exit slots and hooking the ends around the threaded
pushrod ends will make this process easier)
Once the ends have been pushed through the exits, carefully
stretch the two wire pushrod ends apart until there is no friction
or resistance to moving the pushrod back and forth from the
servo compartment end. (Step 1 in the drawing at right)
Finally, using small pliers, grasp the wires just outside the fuse-
lage and bend the ends rearward again, so they will reach the
threaded elevator control horns. (Step 2) You must be able to
move the elevator pushrod freely from the front pushrod wire,
without interference or difficulty. Make any adjustments neces-
sary before moving to the next step.
Step 22: Assemble Elevator Pushrod
Locate the balsa dowel elevator pushrod, the forward plain
wire, and two threaded rear pushrod wires. Using pliers,
make a 90 degree bend in each of the three wires, approxi-
mately 1/4” from the un-threaded ends.
Drill one hole into the balsa dowel approximately 1” from the
end, and then drill two holes in the other end, approximately 45
degrees apart on the dowel. Mix a small batch of 5 Minute Ep-
oxy, apply liberally to the ends of the wires and the holes in the
balsa dowel, and insert the ends of the wires into the epoxy-
filled holes.
Apply a thin film of epoxy to the wires and the ends of the push-
rods. Slide the provided large heat shrink tubing over the
ends of the pushrod, and heat the tubing with a heat gun to
shrink the tubing onto the pushrod. Wipe away the excess ep-
oxy. Allow the epoxy to cure completely before proceeding with
the next step.
New drawing

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16
Step 25: Prepare Engine Mounts
Using spring clamps or C-clamps, temporarily attach your en-
gine to the provided engine mount bearers. Remove the en-
gine’s muffler and needle valve at this time.
Make sure the engine mount bearers are properly positioned
and even with each other. Apply a strip of double-stick carpet
tape or other strong double-sided adhesive tape, sticking it se-
curely to the back of the mounts, but do not remove the outside
backing paper yet.
Step 24: Hook Up Elevator Pushrod
Thread a plastic clevis halfway onto each threaded end of the
elevator pushrod. Clip the clevises onto the elevator horn con-
nectors. Adjust one or both clevises so both elevator halves are
even with each other. Verify again that you can hold the for-
ward wire portion of the elevator pushrod, and move the eleva-
tors easily without interference.
Hook up your radio equipment, and center the elevator servo
and trim lever. Temporarily install a servo arm on the elevator
servo, at 90 degrees orientation.
Clamp or hold the elevator halves neutral. Holding the elevator
pushrod wire over the servo arm, mark the wire where it
crosses the row of holes in the servo arm. Using pliers, make a
90 degree upward bend in the wire at this mark. Cut off the ex-
cess wire, leaving approximately ¼” of wire up from the bend.
Insert the wire into the middle hole in the servo arm, and install
one of the plastic pushrod keepers onto the wire to prevent it
from coming out of the servo arm. (Or you may use a traditional
“Z-bend” in the wire as shown in the photo at right)
Adjust your servo reversing switches if necessary so the eleva-
tor moves upward when the transmitter stick is moved back
towards you.
Adjust the position of the horn connectors closer or further from
the elevators, to achieve the following movement (up and down
equally)
Low Rate: .75” (for Dual-Rate transmitters on “low”)
High Rate: 1.25” (for Dual rate on “high” or non Dual-Rate Tx)
3D: 2.25” (for 3D setup using Exponential Rate Tx)

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17
Step 26: Install Engine Mounts
Note: The firewall is angled slightly to provide the correct thrust
line, and the fiberglass cowl is shaped to match the fuselage
and the engine at this “right-thrust” angle.
Holding the fuselage vertically, set the engine/engine mounts
assembly on the firewall, and slide the fiberglass engine cowl
into place. Align the cowl so that it is evenly positioned on the
fuselage. Move the engine around until the propeller mount
flange is centered in the hole at the front of the cowl. Check
and re-check that the cowl is aligned on the fuselage and the
propeller flange is centered in the cowl. When satisfied, remove
the cowl carefully, and mark the location of the engine mount
bearers onto the firewall. Remove the tape backing and stick
the engine/engine mounts assembly onto the firewall on these
marks. Place the cowl back in position, and verify once again
that the engine propeller flange is still centered in the cowl with
the cowl in proper position.
When satisfied, remove the clamps holding your engine and
remove the engine, leaving the engine mounts stuck to the
firewall in the correct position. Drill 3/16” holes through the fire-
wall using the holes in the engine bearers as a guide. (If your
drill bits are not long enough to drill with the engine mounts in
place, mark the location of the holes with a thin pen, a dowel
with a drop of ink on the end, or a “transfer punch”).
After the holes are drilled, remove the double-sided tape, and
place the engine mount bearers back in position. Insert one of
the engine mount blind nuts into each hole from behind, and
insert the engine mount hex bolts and washers from the front.
Thread the hex bolts into the blind nuts, and tighten the bolts
with a hex wrench until the “teeth” of the blind nuts are drawn
fully up into the plywood firewall.
Step 27: Drill Throttle Pushrod Exit
Mark the location on the firewall where the throttle pushrod
outer tube should exit, so that the pushrod will reach the carbu-
retor’s throttle control arm. Drill a 3/16” hole on this mark as
shown.

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Step 28: Install Engine on Mounts
Note: We recommend that you complete the new engine
break-in procedure before installing the engine on the model or
before the first flight.
Test fit your engine on the mounts again, and put the cowl into
position. If you are using a lighter or smaller engine, move it
closer to the front of the engine bearers. If you are using a
heavier or larger engine move it closer to the rear. Move the
cowl back until the engine’s propeller mount flange is 1/8 –
3/16” forward of the front cowl ring for spinner clearance. Re-
gardless of the engine size, the rear edge of the cowl must
overlap the firewall by 1/4” or more for proper mounting.
Note: For the recommended Magnum 91 XL, the propeller
mount flange should be 49/16 “ forward of the firewall.
When satisfied, carefully remove the cowl and clamp the en-
gine onto the bearers in the correct position. Mark the engine
bearers with a pencil or pen through the holes in the engine’s
mounting ears. Remove the engine and drill 1/8” holes through
the bearers, making sure to drill straight through at 90 degrees.
Mount the engine using the machine bolts, washers, and self-
locking nuts provided.
Step 29: Throttle Pushrod Outer Tube
Drill a 3/16” hole in the forward fuselage bulkhead as shown.
Insert the provided throttle pushrod outer tube through the fire-
wall hole, through the forward bulkhead hole, underneath the
middle bulkhead (towards the inside of the fuselage), and slide
it back into the servo compartment about 2” from the throttle
servo.
Cut the ends of the provided 1/8” x 2” x 3/8” plywood support
strip at 45 degrees if not done already. Using 5 Minute Epoxy,
glue the support strip to the rear bulkhead (at the front of the
servo compartment), trapping the tube securely between the
bulkhead and the support. Clamp or hold in place until the glue
has set.
Apply small amounts of 5 Minute Epoxy to hold the tube against
the middle bulkhead, and around the tube at the firewall to hold
it securely. When the glue has set, cut off the tube approxi-
mately ¼” in front of the firewall.

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Step 30: Hook Up Throttle Pushrod
Slide the inner throttle pushrod wire into place, with the Z-
Bend sticking out at the firewall exit. Make any bends neces-
sary for the Z-Bend to reach the carburetor throttle control arm
with no resistance or interference. (Due to the angle that the
tube goes through the fuselage, for standard type engines it is
likely that a 15-20 degree bend in the wire, about one inch be-
hind the Z-Bend will provide friction free operation)
When satisfied, remove the carburetor from your engine, insert
the Z-Bend in the carburetor arm, and re-install the carburetor.
If necessary, drill out the hole in the carburetor arm to accept
the wire, but only enough to do so without excess play.
Hook up your radio equipment and set the throttle stick at full
throttle. Install the provided “EZ pushrod connector” on your
throttle servo arm, and add one or two of the small washers to
take up any extra space between the connector and the servo
arm. Snap the “E-Clip” in place fully with small pliers to hold the
connector in place.
Slide the throttle pushrod wire into the connector and install
your servo arm on the servo so it is approximately at a 45 de-
gree forward angle. Install and lightly tighten the pushrod con-
nector set screw. Adjust your transmitter’s servo reversing
switch if needed for proper movement. Adjust your transmitter’s
ATV function as needed, so that the throttle operates freely
with no servo buzzing, the carburetor opens all the way at full
throttle setting, and closes almost fully at low throttle setting.
When satisfied, tighten the set screw fully. Cut off the wire leav-
ing ½” excess for future adjustment.
Step 31: Install Servo Hatch
Locate the four small plywood hatch hold-down pieces. Using
5 Minute Epoxy or thick CA, glue two of the pieces to the inside
of the fuselage at the rear of the servo compartment hatch
opening, flush with the bottom edges of the fuselage at the
hatch opening. Mark the inside of the servo access hatch
5/16” in from each side at the wider front end. Using 5 Minute
Epoxy or thick CA, glue the remaining two plywood pieces be-
tween these marks, half glued on the hatch and half sticking out
forward of the hatch as shown.
Test fit the hatch in place, using the plywood pieces on the for-
ward end as a “tongue” keeping the front of the hatch in place.
Trim or sand the plywood pieces if necessary, until a snug fit is
achieved. When satisfied, mark the servo access hatch ½” in-
board from each side, ¼” forward of the rear edge of the hatch.
Place the hatch in position, and drill 1/16” holes through the
hatch and the plywood pieces you glued into in the fuselage.
Install two of the small wood screws and washers to hold the
hatch in position.

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Step 32: Install Engine Cowl
Mark on each side of the fuselage, exactly 11/8”behind the face
of the firewall as shown. The upper marks should be directly
behind the top edge of the engine bearers, and the lower marks
should be behind the lower edges of the engine bearers. Make
a fifth mark on the “muffler” side of the fuselage, also 1 1/8” be-
hind the firewall and ¾” above the bottom of the firewall.
Slide the cowl into place on the fuselage. Move it around until
the engine’s propeller flange is 1/8” in front of the forward face
of the cowl ring. Check and re-check the proper position of the
cowl, and that the engine propeller mount flange is at least 1/8”
forward of the cowl for propeller clearance. When satisfied,
tape the cowl in place securely, and re-check alignment again.
Measure exactly 1” forward of your marks on the fuselage to
locate the mounting holes. Drill 3/64” holes through the cowl
and into the edge of the firewall on these marks. Remove the
tape, and install the provided “washer head screws” to hold
the cowl in position.
Step 33: Trim and Final Fit Engine Cowl
Note: Always wear safety glasses when cutting fiberglass or
using any powered cutting tool. Always wash hands thoroughly
after working with fiberglass. Fiberglass dust or cuttings cause
severe itching. Place tape securely over all engine openings to
prevent fiberglass dust from getting into the exhaust, needle
valve or carburetor.
Remove the cowl from the fuselage. Using a Dremel rotary
hobby tool or a hand-held micro saw, carefully cut out the
cooling air inlet section of the cowl, underneath the front ring
section. Measure the location of your engine’s exhaust stack
where it will go through the cowl, and mark the cowl with a felt
tip pen. Measure the location of where your engine’s needle
valve will go through the cowl (or where you will need a hole to
access the needle valve with a wrench), and mark the cowl at
these locations. Carefully cut, trim, and sand these openings for
proper clearance. We strongly recommend you start with open-
ings that are slightly under-size, and trim them a little at a time
until you have at least 1/8” clearance from all engine parts. We
recommend you remove the cowl each time you must sand or
trim, and wash your hands and the cowl with hot water before
re-installing the cowl for another test-fit
When satisfied, cut a slit between the rear of the exhaust stack
cutout and the rear edge of the cowl, to allow installation and
removal. Cut this slit so that the fifth retaining screw on the muf-
fler side will secure the loose section of the cowl below this slit.
Remove the tape protecting your engine openings, and install
your engine’s muffler and exhaust gasket. Slide the cowl into
position, working the exhaust stack through the slit carefully.
Re-install the five cowl retaining screws, and the needle valve.