State Water Heaters GPX How to use

THIS SERVICE HANDBOOK IS FOR USE BY QUALIFIED SERVICE PROFESSIONALS ONLY.
LOW LEAD
CONTENT
Service Handbook
Residential FVIR
Gas Water Heaters
MODELS:
GPX, GS6, GSX- SERIES 300/301
327306-001
May 2014

2 • Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook
BASICS
2 • Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook
BASICS
2 • Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook
TABLE OF CONTENTS
General Safety .................................................................................................................................................... 4
Completed Installation (typical) ......................................................................................................................... 6
System Basics ..................................................................................................................................................... 7
Honeywell® Gas Control Valve/Thermostat ............................................................................................................................ 7
Gas Pressures............................................................................................................................................................ 7
Temperature Settings................................................................................................................................................ 7
Combustion Chamber with TCO Switch .................................................................................................................................. 8
Lighting the Pilot / Diagnostic Flash Codes......................................................................................................... 9
Lighting the Pilot: ................................................................................................................................................................... 9
If the Status Light Does Not Blink:........................................................................................................................................... 9
If the Pilot Does Not Light: ...................................................................................................................................................... 9
If the Pilot Lights but the Status Light Does Not Blink:............................................................................................................ 9
Diagnostic Flash Codes.......................................................................................................................................................... 10
0 Flashes (LED not lit) ............................................................................................................................................ 10
Status Light On (solid) ........................................................................................................................................... 10
1 Flash ................................................................................................................................................................... 10
2 Flashes ................................................................................................................................................................ 10
4 Flashes ................................................................................................................................................................ 10
5 Flashes ................................................................................................................................................................ 10
7 Flashes ................................................................................................................................................................ 10
8 Flashes ................................................................................................................................................................ 10
System Checks .................................................................................................................................................. 11
Draft Test .............................................................................................................................................................................. 11
Connections Check................................................................................................................................................................ 11
Gas Pressure Checks.............................................................................................................................................................. 11
Thermopile Check (Open Circuit).......................................................................................................................................... 12
Thermopile Check (Closed Circuit)........................................................................................................................................ 12
Common Issues ................................................................................................................................................ 13
No Hot Water ........................................................................................................................................................................ 13
Not Enough Hot Water.......................................................................................................................................................... 13
Lower Seasonal Water Temperatures....................................................................................................... 13
Faulty Shower Control Valve/Faucet Valve ............................................................................................... 14
Thermostat Set Too Low ........................................................................................................................... 14
An Increase in Hot Water Usage............................................................................................................... 14
Undersized Water Heater ......................................................................................................................... 14
Reversed Water Connections ................................................................................................................... 14
Leak in the Plumbing System ................................................................................................................. 14
Sediment Buildup in the Tank................................................................................................................... 14

Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook • 3
BASICS
Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook • 3
BASICS
Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook • 3
Tank Leak............................................................................................................................................................................... 15
Condensation.......................................................................................................................................................... 15
Leaking Plumbing Connections............................................................................................................................... 15
Drips from the T&P Relief Valve Discharge Pipe ..................................................................................................... 15
Temperature Too High........................................................................................................................................................... 16
Low Water Pressure .............................................................................................................................................................. 16
Water Odor ........................................................................................................................................................................... 16
Service Procedures........................................................................................................................................... 17
Removing the Manifold/Burner Assembly............................................................................................................................ 17
Removing the Burner from the Manifold/Burner Assembly ................................................................................................. 17
Replacing the Pilot/Thermopile Assembly ............................................................................................................................ 17
External Inspection and Cleaning of the Base-Ring Filter ..................................................................................................... 18
Cleaning the Combustion Chamber and Flame Arrestor....................................................................................................... 18
Replacing the Manifold/Burner Assembly ............................................................................................................................ 19
Testing the Igniter System ..................................................................................................................................................... 19
Removing and Replacing the Gas Control Valve/Thermostat................................................................................................ 20
Removing the Gas Control Valve/Thermostat:........................................................................................................ 20
Replacing the Gas Control Valve/Thermostat:........................................................................................................ 20
Draining and Flushing............................................................................................................................................................ 20
Supplements..................................................................................................................................................... 21
Evaluating Combustion and Ventilation Air Supply............................................................................................................... 21
Attic Installations .................................................................................................................................................................. 23
Overview................................................................................................................................................................. 23
Pilot Outage ............................................................................................................................................................ 23
Elevated Air Temperature:........................................................................................................................ 24
Insufficient Makeup Air ............................................................................................................................ 24
Blocked Air Screen or Flame Arrestor....................................................................................................... 24
Improper Venting of the Water Heater .................................................................................................... 24
Decompression ........................................................................................................................................ 25
Wind ........................................................................................................................................................ 25
Water Damage ........................................................................................................................................................ 25
Elevated Water Temperature .................................................................................................................................. 25
Field Installation of Draft Hoods ........................................................................................................................................... 26
Tools and Materials................................................................................................................................................. 26
Types of Draft Hoods Covered in this Section......................................................................................................... 26
Types of Vent Pipe Covered in this Section............................................................................................................. 27
Installation Procedure............................................................................................................................................. 27
Coupling.................................................................................................................................................................. 27
Type B Draft Hood Connectors................................................................................................................................ 28

4 • Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook
BASICS
4 • Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook
BASICS
GENERAL SAFETY
Your safety and the safety of others is extremely important in the servicing of this water heater. Many safety-related messages and
instructions have been provided in this handbook and on your water heater to warn you and others of a potential hazard. Read
and obey all safety messages and instructions throughout this handbook as well as those found in the Installation Instructions/
Use & Care Guide.
It is very important that the meaning of each safety message is understood by you and others who service this water heater.
The information contained in this handbook is designed to answer commonly faced situations encountered in the operation of
the standard Residential Gas product line and is not meant to be all-inclusive. If you are experiencing a problem not covered in
this handbook, please contact the Technical Information Center listed on the back cover of this handbook for further assistance.
Additional information is also available on the web site listed on the back cover of this handbook.
This handbook is intended for use by licensed plumbing professionals and reference should be made to the Installation Instructions
and Use & Care Guide accompanying the product. This handbook contains supplemental information to the Installation Instructions
and Use & Care Guide.
When servicing residential water heaters, it is essential that you return the unit to a safe condition before you leave the site. All
original components must be re-installed and all safety measures must be implemented. In addition, the recommended water
temperature setting is 120° F.
IMPORTANT: It is recommended that on every service call, an inspection & cleaning of the base ring filter and flame arrestor be
performed. See page 18.
Tools Required (for servicing gas models):
• Phillips head screw driver
• 3/8, 7/16, & 3/4 inch open end wrenches
• 3/16 inch Allen wrench
• 1-1/16 inch – 6 point – socket – for anode removal
• Electrical multimeter (with alligator leads)
• Digital or analog manometer
• Gas pressure gauge
• Water pressure gauge
• Thermometer
• Hose – to drain tank
• Container – to measure gallons per minute flow Digital Manometer

Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook • 5
BASICS
Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook • 5
BASICS
Fire or Explosion Harzard
Do not store or use gasoline or other flammable vapors and
liquids in the vicinity of this or any other appliance.
Avoid all ignition sources if you smell Natural or LP gas.
Do not expose water heater control to excessive gas
pressure.
Use only gas shown on rating plate.
Maintain required clearances to combustibles.
Keep ignition sources away from faucets after extended
period of non-use.
Read instruction manual before
installing, using or servicing
water heater.
Fire or Explosion Harzard
Hydrogen gas can be produced in a hot water system after
a period of non-use (generally two or more weeks).
Hydrogen gas is extremely flammable and can ignite.
To return hot water system to service, open a hot water
faucet in kitchen for several minutes before using electrical
appliances.
Do not smoke or have open flame near faucet while it is open.
Leave hot water faucet open until the sound of escaping
air stops.
After extended period of non-use,
purge gases from hot water system.

6 • Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook
BASICS
6 • Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook
BASICS
COMPLETED INSTALLATION ΈTYPICALΉ
Exhaust Vent to
Ouside of Building
Union
Union
Water
Shut-Off
Valve
Water
Supply- Cold*
Expansion Tank
Pressurized to Equal
Supply Water Pressure*
(Relieve water pressure
on the expansion tank
before adjusting air
pressure.)
Temperature-Pressure Relief Valve
with discharge piped to an
adequate drain. Do not cap or plug.
6” Maximum Air Gap
NOTE: Local codes
may vary.
Drain
Gas Control Valve/Thermostat
Recommended setting of 120°F.
Metal Drain Pan piped to an adequate drain.
NOTE: Drain pan diameter must be at least
2 inches wider than the diameter of the
water heater.
Sediment Trap
3” Minimum.
Gas Supply
To Fixtures - Hot
The water heater must be installed according to all local and state codes or in the absence of local
and state codes, the “National Fuel Gas Code” ANSI Z223.1(NFPA 54)- current edition.
See Labels and
Installation Instructions
and Use & Care Guide
for clearances.
* NOTE: If on a well system, the expansion tank should be set to the maximum pressure of the pump tank.
*Massachusett: Install
a vacuum relief in cold
water line per section
19 MGL 142.
Do not cap or plug.
Union
Manual Gas
Shut-off Valve
Untempered
Hot Water
Tempered Water
To Fixtures
Cold
Water
Inlet
Hot
Water
Outlet
Mixing Valve
(Set to 120°F)
Follow the Mixing
Valve Manufacturer’s
Instructions
Base Ring Filter:
Air is drawn in for combustion. Keep area clean
and free from flammables and flammable vapors.
Figure 1.

Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook • 7
BASICS
Honeywell® Gas Control
Valve/Thermostat
Waterheaters covered by thishandbook
are equipped with Honeywell gas
control valve/thermostats.
• The Honeywell valve uses a
thermopileinstead ofathermocouple
as did previous designs.
• Heat on the thermopile generates
750 to 900 millivolts (open circuit).
• When heated by the pilot and
connected to the Honeywell control,
the thermopile generates at least
350 millivolts (closed circuit). This
voltage opens the power head
in the control, allowing gas to
flow. It also powers the onboard
diagnostics (status light). See
Figure 2.
• The Honeywell valve uses a standard
push-button piezo igniter. See “Spark
Igniter” in Figure 2B.
• Status codes are printed on the face
of the control for easy reference
(Figure 2B.)
• The LED status light shows the
current status of the control as well
as possible error codes for easy
diagnosis. For more information on
error codes, see “Lighting the Pilot /
Diagnostic Flash Codes” on page 9.
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Thermopile
Pilot
Figure 2.
Gas Pressures
Ensure that the following pressures are
observed and maintained:
Table 1. GAS PRESSURES
GAS MAXIMUM
SUPPLY
PRESSURE
MANIFOLD
GAS
PRESSURE
NAT 14 InWC 5.0 InWC
(± 0.4 InWC)
LP 14 InWC 10.0 InWC
(± 0.5 InWC)
Min. Supply Pressure: See Rating Plate.
The gas control valve\thermostat also
includes a temperature limiting ECO
(Energy Cut Off) system. This system
will shut off the water heater if the
water temperature becomes excessive.
Should the water temperature get
too high, the main burner and pilot
will shut off automatically. Once the
pilot is relit, the status light will flash
a code (4 flashes), indicating an over-
temperature condition. See “Lighting
the Pilot / Diagnostic Flash Codes” on
page 9 for more information.
NOTE: Honeywell is a registered trademark
of Honeywell International, Inc.
Temperature Seƫngs
The water temperature setting can be
adjusted from 55°F to 155°F. Simply
turn the gas control/temperature Knob
to the desired setting/temperature.
See Figure 3.
NOTE: The temperatures indicated are
approximates. The actual temperature
of the heated water may vary.
SYSTEM BASICS
Figure 2B
Temperature Control Knob*
Temperature control ranges:
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8 • Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook
BASICS
Scalding Risk
A water heater
can make water
hot enough to
cause severe burns
instantly, resulting in severe injury or
death. Higher temperatures increase
the risk of scalding, but even at 120°F,
hot water can scald. See Table 2.
Thermostatic mixing valves at each
point of use reduce the risk of scalding.
VAC
HONEYWELL®GAS CONTROL VALVE/THERMOSTAT
GAS CONTROL/TEMPERATURE KNOB
120°F
MARK
§130°F
§140°F
§150°F §155°F
§55°F
TEMPERATURES SHOWN ARE APPROXIMATES AND MAY VARY.
SOME MODELS ARE CERTIFIED FOR 180°F. SEE RATING PLATE.
STATUS
LIGHT
IGNITER
Figure 3.
Table 2.
Water
Temperature
Time to Produce
a Serious Burn
120°F (49°C) More than 5 minutes
125°F (52°C) 1½ to 2 minutes
130°F (54°C) About 30 seconds
135°F (57°C) About 10 seconds
140°F (60°C) Less than 5 seconds
145°F (63°C) Less than 3 seconds
150°F (66°C) About 1½ seconds
155°F (68°C) About 1 second
IMPORTANT: Water temperature
in the tank can be higher than the
thermostat setting. Some of the
reasons are:
• Incoming water temperature is
higher than the set point (e.g.,
solar-heated water).
• The water heater and/or pipes
are located in an area with high
ambient temperatures (e.g., an
attic). See also “Attic Installations”
on page 23.
• Certain usage patterns, such as
short hot water draws or no hot
water use for long periods of
time, can cause the tank water
temperature to rise higher than the
thermostat setting. Modern water
heaters are very well insulated
and retain heat so efficiently that,
under certain circumstances,
the tank water temperature can
increase over time, particularly
when hot water is not being used.
This “heating” effect can be caused
by the pilot flame itself.
CombusƟon Chamber
with TCO Switch
Combustion air is drawn through the
base-ring filter and flame arrestor and
into the combustion chamber. (See
Figure 5.) Sufficient combustion air is
critical to the operation of the water
heater.
IMPORTANT: The flame arrestor
and filter should be inspected and
cleaned during each service call. See
page 18 for instructions.
Also, each water heater covered by
this handbook is equipped with a
resettable TCO switch (thermal switch),
designed to shut off the gas supply in
the event that the water heater has
been exposed to high combustion
chamber temperatures caused by one
of the following events:
• Flammable vapors (e.g., spilled
gasoline)
• Poor combustion caused by a
blocked vent
• Insufficient combustion air.
A resettable thermal switch is
illustrated in Figure 4. Its reset button
is located in the center of the switch,
directly between the terminals.
IMPORTANT: If the thermal switch has
been tripped, determine the cause
and correct it before returning the
water heater to service. Ensure that
there are no flammable vapors
present. However, a tripped thermal
switch is most likely caused by poor
combustion (e.g., blocked vent or dirty
filter/arrestor).
THERMAL
SWITCH
(TCO)
THERMAL SWITCH (TCO) LOCATION
Figure 4.
Figure 5.
FLAME ARRESTOR COMBUSTION CHAMBER
BASE-RING
FILTER

Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook • 9
PILOT/FLASH CODES
LIGHTING THE PILOT / DIAGNOSTIC FLASH CODES
LighƟng the Pilot:
1. Read and follow the lighting
instructions on the water heater’s
label.
2. Turn the control knob to “Pilot.”
Press the knob in fully and hold it in.
(The knob will travel in about 1/4-
inch if it is set to Pilot correctly.)
3. While holding the control knob in,
click the igniter button continuously
for up to 90 seconds or until the
Status Light begins to blink.
If the status light does not begin
to blink after 90 seconds, STOP.
Release the control knob. Wait
10 minutes before attempting to
relight the Pilot. Repeat these steps
2-3 times, if necessary.
The circuitry in this gas valve
requires that you wait 10 minutes
between lighting attempts.
If the Status Light blinks, release
the gas control/temperature knob
and turn it to the desired setting.
(“Hot” is approximately 120°F).
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Figure 6.
If the Status Light Does
Not Blink:
1. Wait 10 minutes before another
lighting attempt.
2. If the status light did not blink, repeat
the lighting procedure by following
the lighting instructions on the water
heater’s label. Remove the outer
door. The control knob must be set
to Pilot and held in continuously
while clicking the igniter button
(about once per second for up to
90 seconds). To observe the Pilot,
remove the outer door and look
through the view port (sight glass).
See Figure 7.
3. Continue clicking the Igniter button
(for up to 90 seconds) until pilot
lights.
4. Once the pilot is lit, continue to hold
the control knob in until the Status
Light begins to blink.
5. Release control Knob and set Knob to
desired temperature setting. (“Hot”
is approximately 120°F.)
6. Replace the outer door.
If the Pilot Does Not
Light:
1. Wait 10 minutes before another
lighting attempt. If the pilot does not
light, the Igniter may not be sparking
or the unit may not be getting gas (or
for a new installation, there may still
be air in the gas line). Each time you
click the igniter button, you should
be able to see the spark by looking
through the view port. See Figure 7.
(You may have to darken the room
lights to see the spark.) You do not
have to push the Control Knob in
to check the Igniter button. Simply
look through the sight glass while
clicking the Igniter button and look
for a spark. If you can’t see a spark
when the Igniter button is clicked,
check the wiring connections from
the Igniter button and make sure
that they are tight.
2. If you see the igniter spark, try
relighting the pilot by following the
instructions on the water heater’s
label. Ensure that the gas supply is
turned on. There may be air in the
gas line, and several lighting attempts
may be needed to completely fill the
line with gas and successfully light
the pilot.
VAC
THERMAL
SWITCH
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Figure 7.
If the Pilot Lights but the
Status Light Does Not
Blink:
1. If the pilot lights, continue to hold the
control knob in until the status light
blinks. If the pilot is lit and remains
lit for 90 seconds and the Status Light
still does not blink, the thermopile
connections may be loose, the
thermal switch may need to be reset,
or the thermopile may be defective.
2. Remove the outer door.
3. Press the reset button on the thermal
switch (TCO switch). See Figure 7.
4. If the switch clicks, it may have
tripped. Do not light the pilot if
flammable vapors are present.
Check flame arrestor for signs
of discoloration (which could be
caused by flammable vapors). If the
flame arrestor is discolored, do not
attempt to relight the Pilot. Have the
water heater inspected by a qualified
service technician.
5. Check the wiring connections
from the thermopile and thermal
switch (TCO) to the gas control
valve/thermostat. Ensure that
all wiring connections are tight.
See Figure 7.
6. Replace the outer door.

10 • Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook
PILOT/FLASH CODES
7. Wait 10 minutes and try to light the
Pilot according to the instructions
on the water heater’s label.
8. While clicking the igniter button
continuously, the control knob must
be set to Pilot and held in until the
Status Light blinks. Once the status
light blinks, release the control knob
and set the knob to the desired
temperature setting. (“Hot” is
approximately 120°F.)
DiagnosƟc Flash Codes
NOTE: In each case, the flash code will
occur, followed by a 3 second pause,
and then will repeat.
0 Flashes (LED not lit)
Indication/Condition:
Control Off/Pilot Out.
Check/Repair:
1. Follow the lighting instructions on the
front of the water heater and attempt
to relight the pilot. Confirm that
the pilot is lit by looking through the
viewport (Figure 16, p. 17).
2. If pilot will light but does not
hold, check for a tripped thermal
switch. (Measure continuity by
placing a meter lead on each of
the two terminals. Continuity
means that it was not tripped.) If
thermal switch is tripped, check for
flammable vapors in the area and
ensure that the unit has adequate
combustion air and proper draft
before relighting. (You can reset
the thermal switch by pressing the
reset button in its center.) Also,
ensure that the filter and flame
arrestor are clean (p. 18).
3. If the pilot will light and does hold,
record any status codes and follow
the procedures relating to that code.
4. If pilot will not light at all, verify the
piezo igniter is producing a spark
and the unit is getting the correct
supply gas pressure. See “Testing
the Igniter System” (p. 19);
“Gas Pressure Checks” (p. 11).
Also, check the thermopile wiring
connections (Figure 16, p. 17).
Status Light On (solid)
Indication/Condition:
Pilot light was recently extinguished
and the thermopile is cooling down.
Check/Repair:
1. Turn the gas control valve/
thermostat knob to OFF.
2. Wait 10 minutes for the thermopile
to cool, then attempt to relight
the pilot by following the lighting
instructions on the water heater’s
label. NOTE: This gas control valve/
thermostat has built-in circuitry
that requires waiting 10 minutes
between lighting attempts.
Until the Thermopile reaches its
normal operating temperature,
the status light will not blink, even
if the pilot is lit. It may take up to
90 seconds of continuous pilot
operation before the thermopile
reaches normal operating
temperature and the Status Light
starts to blink.
1 Flash
Indication/Condition:
Normal Operation (bright/dim
heartbeat)
Check/Repair: No corrective action
necessary.
2 Flashes
Indication/Condition:
Thermopile voltage low.
Check/Repair:
1. Check all wiring connections for loose
or damaged wires. Correct if needed.
2. Check the millivolt output on the
thermopile. If output is less than 350
millivolts DC, replace the thermopile.
See also “Condensation” on page 15.
4 Flashes
Indication/Condition:
Temperature exceeded (ECO activated).
Check/Repair:
1. Turn gas control valve/thermostat
knob to OFF.
2. Turn the main gas supply OFF.
3. Replace the gas control valve/
thermostat.
5 Flashes
Indication/Condition: Sensor failure.
Check/Repair:
1. Turn gas control valve/thermostat
knob to OFF.
2. Turn the main gas supply OFF.
3. Replace the gas control valve/
thermostat.
7 Flashes
Indication/Condition:
Internal control failure.
Check/Repair:
1. Turn gas control valve/thermostat
knob to OFF.
2. Turn the main gas supply OFF.
3. Replace the gas control valve/
thermostat.
8 Flashes
Indication/Condition: Power off failure.
Check/Repair:
1. If the pilot flame is present when
the control knob is set to the OFF
position, replace the gas control
valve/thermostat.
2. If the pilot flame is not present when
the control knob is set to the OFF
position, wait 10 minutes for the
thermopile to cool, then relight the
unit. If this condition returns, replace
the gas control valve/thermostat.

Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook • 11
SYSTEM CHECKS
SYSTEM CHECKS
Explosion Risk
WARNING! Before performing any
test, check the area around the water
heater for any source of a flammable
vapor (i.e gasoline, paint thinners,
etc.). If any sources are found, do not
proceed until they are removed.
DraŌTest
WARNING! Burn Hazard. Do not
touch the vent. Doing so can cause
burns.
After successfully lighting the water
heater, allow the main burner to
operate for five minutes. Close all
windows and doors and turn on all
gas appliances and air-moving devices
(range hoods, bathroom exhaust fans,
ceiling fans, etc.) in the home. Also,
close any fireplace dampers.
After five minutes, pass a newly
exƟnguished match about one inch (1”)
from the draŌhood’s relief opening.
Smoke from the match should be steadily
drawn into the opening, indicaƟng proper
draŌand a funcƟoning vent system.
MATCH
DRAFT HOOD
RELIEF
OPENING
Figure 8.
If the main burner has been operaƟng
for five minutes, but the match smoke
driŌs around or is blown away from
the opening, turn the gas control knob
OFF. Do not operate the water heater
until proper adjustments or repairs are
made to the vent pipe system and/or air
supply (p. 21). Always check the filter
and flame arrestor first and clean them,
if necessary (p. 18).
ConnecƟons Check
Some issues can be caused by faulty
connections. Refer to the following list
of connections when troubleshooting
the system:
• Igniter wire (Figure 9). See also
“Testing the Igniter System” on
page 19.
• Thermopile/thermal switch wires
at the gas control valve/thermostat
(Figure 9).
• Wire connections at the thermal
switch (TCO). A disconnected
thermal switch wire can cause the
pilot to become inoperable. See
Figure 4, page 8.
See also “Diagnostic Flash Codes” on
page 10.
Igniter Wire
From Thermopile (White)
From Thermal Switch (Red)
Manifold
Pressure Tap
(1/8” NPT-RH)
Manifold Flex Tube Nut:
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Figure 9.
Gas Pressure Checks
Gas pressure checks are made with
flowing gas. Use a gas pressure gauge
capable of reading pressure in inches
of water column.
• Supply gas pressure checks are
measured before the gas control
valve/thermostat and as close
to the water heater as possible.
NOTE: The dynamic gas pressure
(burner on) should be measured
with all appliances operating that
use the common gas supply.
• Manifold (main burner) gas
pressure is measured at the
pressure tap on the bottom of
the gas control valve/thermostat.
See Figure 9 and Figure 11. Use a
3/16” Allen wrench to remove the
pressure tap plug, then attach the
gas gauge.
NOTE: Gas outlet pressures will be listed
on the gas control valve/thermostat’s
pressure label. See Figure 10. Also,
gas supply pressure requirements are
shown on the water heater labeling.
VAC
GAS
PRESSURE
GAUGE
CONNECTED AT
PRESSURE TAP
MANIFOLD GAS PRESSURE TEST
GAS PRESSURE LABEL (OUTLET PRESSURE)
Figure 10.
CONNECTED AT PRESSURE TAP
Figure 11.

12 • Residential Standard Gas Water Service Handbook
SYSTEM CHECKS
Table 3.
Gas Pressures
IF . . .
. . . THEN
...the supply gas
pressure is lower
than required...
• increase the
supply gas
pressure regulator
setting
and/or
• increase supply
gas piping size.
...the supply
gas pressure
is higher than
required...
• add a gas pressure
regulator.
• reduce the setting
on the existing
regulator.
...the manifold
gas pressure
is not within
+/- 10% of the
value shown
on the gas
pressure label...
• ensure that there
is adequate supply
gas pressure
• ensure that the
main burner
orifice is the
correct size for
the model being
tested.
• if the above
tests have been
performed and
the results were
correct, replace
the gas control
valve (p. 20).
NOTE: The gas
pressure label
lists the gas
valve outlet
pressure. This
is the same as
the manifold
pressure. See
Figure 10.
Thermopile Check
(Open Circuit)
The following test will check the DC
voltage generated by the thermopile
when the pilot light is lit.
1. Remove the connectors from the
gas control valve/thermostat (red
and white wires). Use needle-nose
pliers.
2. Insert multimeter leads into the
connectors. The multimeter must
be set to read millivolts DC (on a
scale that can read 750 millivolts).
Reference Figure 12.
USE A MULTIMETER TO CHECK THE OUTPUT OF
THE THERMOPILE (MEASURED IN MILLIVOLTS).
SHOWN ABOVE - MULTIMETER PROBES ARE
INSERTED INTO THE THERMOPILE PLUGS. THESE
PLUGS WERE REMOVED FROM THE RECEPTACLE AT
THE BOTTOM, RIGHT-HAND CORNER OF THE GAS
CONTROL VALVE/ THERMOSTAT.
Figure 12.
3. Follow the lighting instructions to
light the pilot. Once the pilot is lit,
continue to hold the gas control
knob in until this test is complete.
You may need assistance from
another person to do this. The
voltage reading should rise
gradually as the thermopile heats
up. After a few minutes, you should
have a reading of at least 350 mV
DC. A reading above 350 mV DC
indicates that the thermopile is
working properly.
4. When you are finished, plug the
connectors back into the gas
control valve/thermostat. If the
connectors are separate (not a
double connector), ensure that the
red wire connector is to the left and
the white wire connector is to the
right. See Figure 2B, page 7. If
the status light does not blink once
every three seconds, replace the
gas control valve/thermostat.
Thermopile Check
(Closed Circuit)
Follow the lighting instructions to light
the pilot. Once the pilot is lit, you can
check the output of the thermopile
with one of the following tests. A
reading above 350 mV DC indicates
that the thermopile is working
properly.
INSERT MULTIMETER LEADS INTO
THERMOPILE PLUGS AT CONTROL.
PILOT MUST BE LIT.
MULTIMETER SET TO READ mV.
MINIMUM ACCEPTABLE
MEASUREMENT: 350 mV DC.
Figure 13.
INSERT ONE MULTIMETER LEAD INTO
THE NEGATIVE PLUG ON THE CONTROL
(WHITE WIRE).
TOUCH THE OTHER LEAD TO A
TERMINAL ON THE THERMAL
SWITCH (TCO).
MULTIMETER SET TO READ mV.
PILOT MUST BE LIT.
MINIMUM ACCEPTABLE
MEASUREMENT: 350 mV DC.
Figure 14.

Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook • 13
COMMON ISSUES
Fire and Explosion Hazard
WARNING! Do not
attempt to light the water
heater if flammable vapors or liquids
are present. Do not store or use
gasoline or other flammable vapors
and liquids in the vicinity of this or any
other gas appliance. Storage of or use
of gasoline or other flammable vapors
or liquids in the vicinity of this or any
other appliance can result in serious
injury or death.
No Hot Water
If water is not being heated, check the
following:
1. Look at the gas control valve/
thermostat. Is it flashing? If so,
solutions for restoring hot water are
listed below. See also “Diagnostic
Flash Codes” on page 10.
1 Flash
Normal Operation
(This code may occur after you
relight the pilot.)
Once the water heater has
completed a heating cycle, it should
provide an adequate amount of
hot water. If it does not, see “Not
Enough Hot Water.” If the pilot
lights for a while, then goes out, see
“0 Flashes (LED not lit)” on page 10.
2 Flashes
Thermopile voltage is low
Possible causes/solutions:
• Thermopile is getting weak.
• Check wiring and connections.
• If necessary, replace the
thermopile. See “Replacing
the Pilot/Thermopile
Assembly” on page 17.
4, 5, or 7 Flashes
If you observe one of these
flash codes, refer to “Diagnostic
Flash Codes” on page 10.
8 Flashes
Power Off Failure
Often, this error can be cleared
by turning the pilot off, letting
it cool down for ten minutes,
then relighting it according to
the lighting instructions. See
“8 Flashes” on page 10.
2. If the status light is not lit, see
“0 Flashes (LED not lit),” page 10.
That section will help you investigate
causes related to the thermal switch
(TCO), spark ignition, gas pressures,
and thermopile connections.
NOTE: The pilot must be lit for
the status light (LED) to flash.
Heat from the pilot causes the
thermopile to generate voltage.
Without this voltage, the gas control
valve/thermostat cannot operate.
Remember: it may take up to 90
seconds to heat the thermopile
enough to power the status light.
3. If you completed step 2 and
the pilot will not light, check for
air in the gas line. (This is fairly
common with recent work/new
installations.) If there is air in
the gas line, bleed the line as
necessary. Make sure to hold the
gas control knob in fully and hold it
in. In most cases, energy efficient
pilot orifices are so small that it
may be difficult to clear the air by
holding the knob in.
When you are finished, try to light
the pilot. (Follow the lighting
instructions on the water heater.)
Remember to hold the control
knob in for at least 90 seconds so
the pilot can heat up.
Did the pilot light? If it did, check
the following:
A. If the pilot did not light, replace
the pilot. (The entire pilot/
thermopile assembly must be
replaced). The most likely cause
is contamination in the pilot
tube.
A. If the pilot is lit and the status
light is flashing, refer to
“Diagnostic Flash Codes” on
page 10.
B. If the pilot is lit, but the status
light did not start flashing, check
the thermopile (p. 12). If its
output is 350 mV or less, it must
be replaced. If its output is
greater than 350 mV, replace the
gas control valve/thermostat.
Not Enough Hot Water
Check the following if the water is not
hot enough or if the hot water runs out
too quickly:
Possible causes
• Lower seasonal water temperatures
• Faulty shower control or faucet
valve
• Thermostat is set too low
• Increased hot water usage
• Water heater is too small to meet
demand
• Reversed plumbing connections
• Plumbing system leak
• Sediment buildup in the tank
Verify the water temperature at
the temperature/pressure relief
valve. Check the mixing valve/
shower control settings. Also
check for leaks, heavy usage, and
extremely cold incoming water.
In all cases, clean the filter and
flame arrestor (p. 18), then
conduct a draft test (p. 11).
A description of each cause and its
solution(s) is listed below.
Lower Seasonal Water Temperatures
In some areas, water coming into the
tank is much colder during winter
COMMON ISSUES

14 • Residential Standard Gas Water Service Handbook
COMMON ISSUES
and early spring months. Even when
the water heater is working properly,
it may take longer to fully heat the
water. As a result, hot water may not
be available as quickly as it is during
warmer months.
Faulty Shower Control Valve/Faucet
Valve
Check the hot water at all faucets in
the home. Some may have built-in
thermostat or pressure-balance mixing
valves that may need adjustment or
replacement. If you get hot water from
some outlets but not others, adjust/
replace each fixture as necessary.
NOTE: A mixing valve issue is not a
water heater defect and is not covered
by the water heater warranty.
Thermostat Set Too Low
Scalding Risk
A water heater can
make water hot
enough to cause
severe burns instantly, resulting
in severe injury or death. Higher
temperatures increase the risk of
scalding, but even at 120°F, hot water
can scald. See Table 2 on page 8
before proceeding. Thermostatic
mixing valves at each point of
use reduce the risk of scalding.
If you’ve checked all of the faucets
and shower controls and the water
temperature is still too cool, the water
heater’s thermostat may be set too
low. See “Temperature Settings” on
page 7 for instructions on how
to adjust the thermostat. If there
still isn’t enough hot water, set the
thermostat to a higher setting and
install a thermostatic mixing valve at
each point of use.
An Increase in Hot Water Usage
If hot water is running out during
holidays, weekends, or family
gatherings, the demand for hot
water may be exceeding the water
heater’s capacity. Hot water usage
can be reduced by washing clothes in
cold water, installing flow restrictors
on shower heads, and taking other
conservation steps.
Undersized Water Heater
If water is frequently too cool, the
water heater may be too small. If
the water heater is old, the best
solution may be to replace it with a
larger model. If the water heater is
in good condition, you may set the
thermostat to a temperature above
120°F and install thermostatic mixing
valves at each point of use. Set each
thermostatic mixing valve’s delivery
temperature to 120°F to reduce the
risk of scalding. (See “Temperature
Settings” on page 7.)
This method can increase the effective
size of the water heater by about 30%.
Reversed Water Connecons
If the hot and cold water connections
are reversed, it may appear as if the
water heater isn’t producing much
hot water. This problem is usually
identified at the time of installation.
Confirm that the home’s hot water
pipe is connected to the water heater’s
hot water outlet, not the cold water
inlet. If the connections are reversed,
switch them to the correct position.
NOTE: The water heater’s hot water
outlet will be marked with an “H” or
“HOT,” or will be color coded red.
Leak in the Plumbing System
A leak in the home’s plumbing system
can overload the water heater’s ability
to heat water. In that case, the water
heater can be working, but there will
be little or no hot water. Check the
plumbing system for leaks and repair
as necessary.
Sediment Buildup in the Tank
If the water heater is several years old
and/or is installed in an area known for
hard water, there may be a buildup of
sediment at the bottom of the tank.
Sediment buildup may reduce the
efficiency of the water heater and may
reduce the amount of available hot
water.
Drain and flush the tank (page 20).
You may also treat the tank with a
lime/scale removal solution that is
approved for potable water heaters.

Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook • 15
COMMON ISSUES
Tank Leak
CondensaƟon
If you see small puddles of water in
the drain pan or hear sizzling sounds
as water drips on the burner, the
water heater may be producing
condensation. Condensation may drip
onto the burner or other hot surfaces
to produce a sizzling sound. On some
models, this may actually cause the
pilot to go out.
Condensation usually occurs when the
water heater tank is full of cold water.
Condensation will most likely occur:
• During holidays, weekends, or
family gatherings when there is an
increase in your home’s hot water
usage.
• During the winter and early spring
months when incoming water
temperatures are at their lowest.
• If the water heater is a new
installation.
• If a large amount of hot water is
used in a short period of time.
• If the water heater is too small for
the home’s hot water demands.
In most cases, condensation
should disappear once the water
heater reaches normal operating
temperature, or when the home’s hot
water demands return to normal.
If the water heater is too small for the
home’s typical hot water demands,
the water heater may produce
condensation regularly. In that case, a
larger water heater is recommended.
NOTE: Condensation may cause a “2
Flashes” error code, indicating low
thermopile voltage. This condition
may clear up as the tank begins to
warm. See “2 Flashes” on page 10
Leaking Plumbing ConnecƟons
If there’s water on the floor around
the bottom of the water heater, check
the plumbing connections on top of
the tank. Use a dry paper towel to
wipe around the hot and cold pipe
connections on top of the water
heater. If the paper towel is wet after
wiping a connection, repair the leak(s).
Drips from the T&P Relief Valve
Discharge Pipe
A small amount of water dripping from
the temperature and pressure (T&P)
relief valve usually means the home’s
water pressure is too high or you
need a properly sized and pressurized
thermal expansion tank. A large
amount of hot water coming from the
T&P discharge pipe may be due to the
tank overheating.
WARNING! Do not cap or plug the
T&P relief valve or discharge pipe,
and do not operate the water heater
without a functioning T&P relief Valve.
This could cause an explosion.
Refer to Figure 1 on page 6 while
reviewing this section.
• Water pressure too high. High water
pressure can cause the T&P relief
valve to drip. Install a pressure
reducing valve (PRV) on the main
cold water supply line. Adjust the
PRV to between 50 and 60 psi.
• Thermal Expansion Tank. Install
a Thermal Expansion Tank. If a
Thermal Expansion Tank is already
installed and the T&P Relief Valve
discharge pipe drips, the Thermal
Expansion Tank may be pressurized
to the wrong pressure or the internal
bladder may be defective. Refer to
the instructions that came with the
Thermal Expansion Tank for more
information.
• Debris. In rare cases, debris can
stick inside the T&P relief valve
preventing the valve from seating
fully. In that case, the T&P relief
valve discharge pipe will drip. You
may be able to clear debris from
the T&P Relief Valve by manually
operating the valve, allowing small
quantities of water to flush out the
debris. See the label on the T&P
relief valve for instructions.
If the water pressure is between 50
and 60 psi, a thermal expansion tank is
installed and properly pressurized, and
the valve has been cleared of any debris,
and it still drips, the valve may be broken.
Install a new T&P relief valve.

16 • Residential Standard Gas Water Service Handbook
COMMON ISSUES
Temperature Too High
Scalding Risk
A water heater can
make water hot
enough to cause
severe burns instantly, resulting
in severe injury or death. Higher
temperatures increase the risk of
scalding, but even at 120°F, hot water
can scald. See Table 2 on page 8
before proceeding. Thermostatic
mixing valves at each point of
use reduce the risk of scalding.
If the water temperature is too hot:
• Install or adjust the thermostatic
mixing valves for each point-of-use
(see manufacturer’s instructions), or
• Adjust the temperature setting on
the water heater. See “Temperature
Settings” on page 7.
Low Water Pressure
Check both the cold and hot water at a
sink to determine if the lower pressure
is only on the hot water side. If the low
pressure is on the hot water side only,
the primary causes of this are:
• Melted heat traps or dip tube.
Soldering copper pipes while they are
connected to the water heater can
melt the heat traps inside the hot and
cold water connections or the dip tube
(cold water side). Melted heat traps or
a melted dip tube can restrict the flow
of hot water. If that’s the case, replace
the heat traps or dip tube.
• Partially closed supply valve. Open
the water heater’s supply valve fully.
Water Odor
Harmless bacteria normally present
in tap water can multiply in water
heaters and give off a “rotten egg”
smell. Although eliminating the
bacteria that causes “smelly water”
with a Chlorination system is the only
sure treatment, in some cases, the
standard anode rod that came with the
water heater can be replaced with a
special zinc anode rod which may help
reduce or eliminate the odor. Contact
Technical Assistance for availability.
NOTE: To protect the tank, an anode rod
must be installed in the water heater at
all times or the warranty is void.
In cases where the “rotten egg” smell
is pronounced, you can raise the tank
temperature to 140°F in order to
reduce bacteria growth in the tank.
WARNING! Higher temperatures
increase the risk of scalding. If
you set the temperature setting
higher than 120°F, thermostatic
mixing valves at each point-of-use
are particularly important. See
“Temperature Settings” on page 7.

Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook • 17
SERVICE PROCEDURES
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Removing the Manifold/
Burner Assembly
1. Turn the gas control/temperature
knob to the “OFF” position (Figure
6 on page 9).
2. Before performing any
maintenance, it is important to
turn off the gas supply to the water
heater at the manual gas shut-
off valve (Figure 1, p. 6). This
valve is typically located beside the
water heater. Note the position of
the shut-off valve in the open/on
position, then proceed to turn it
off.
3. With the unit shut-off, allow
sufficient time for the water heater
to cool before performing any
maintenance.
IGNITER
WIRE
RED WIRE
Έ>&d^/Ή
W/>Kd
TUBE
DE/&K>dh
IGNITER
hddKE
IGNITER
>
WIRE
WHITE
WIRE
ΈZ/',d
^/Ή
'^KEdZK>
dDWZdhZ<EK
VAC
Figure 15.
4. Remove the outer door.
5. Disconnect the following from the
gas control valve/thermostat: pilot
tube (7/16” wrench), igniter wire
(from the igniter lead wire), and
manifold tube (3/4” wrench). See
Figure 15.
6. Disconnect the white and red
wires from the gas control valve/
thermostat (Figure 15). Use
needle nose pliers to grip the
connector(s). IMPORTANT: Grip
the connector carefully to prevent
damage. Do not grip or pull the
wires themselves.
7. Grasp the manifold tube and push
down slightly to free the manifold
tube and pilot tube.
8. Remove the screws (1/4” nut
driver) securing the manifold/
burner assembly to the combustion
chamber. (Figure 16.)
9. Carefully remove the manifold/
burner assembly from the
combustion chamber. BE SURE NOT
TO DAMAGE ANY INTERNAL PARTS.
VAC
THERMAL
SWITCH
ΈdKΉ
V/tWKZd
W/K/'E/dZhddKE
'^KEdZK>V>sd,ZDK^TAT
'^KEdZK>
dDWZdhZ<EK
KhdZKKZ
EKd^,KtE
d,ZDKW/>
t/ZKEEd/KE^
DE/&K>^Zt^ΈϮΉ
Figure 16.
Removing the Burner
from the Manifold/
Burner Assembly
Natural Gas (Low Nox) & L.P. Gas
Burner
1. Take off the burner by removing the
two (2) screws located underneath
the burner (Figure 17.).
2. Check the burner to see if it is dirty
or clogged. The burner may be
cleaned with soap and hot water.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT remove the
orifice.
BURNER
(BOTTOM VIEW)
SCREWS (2)
PILOT ASSEMBLY
(BOTTOM VIEW)
BURNER SCOOP
(SOME MODELS)
MANIFOLD
TUBE
Figure 17.
Replacing the Pilot/
Thermopile Assembly
A. Removing the Old Pilot/
Thermopile Assembly from
the Manifold Assembly
1. Remove the manifold door
assembly as described in
“Removing the Manifold/Burner
Assembly” section.
2. Remove the burner to access
the pilot/thermopile assembly.
Remove and keep the screws
securing the burner to the manifold
(Figure 17.) IMPORTANT: DO NOT
remove the orifice.
3. Remove the screw securing the
pilot/thermopile assembly to the
pilot bracket and keep for reuse
later (Figure 18.)
4. Lift the retainer clip straight up
from the back of the manifold
component block (using a flat-
blade screwdriver), then remove
the manifold component block
from the manifold door. See Figure
18. IMPORTANT: Be careful not
to bend or alter the position of
the pilot tube. It will be used as a
bending template for the new pilot
assembly. Note the placement/
order of the wires in the manifold
component block.
5. Lift the pilot/thermopile assembly
(including the igniter wire) from
the manifold assembly.
CONNECTORS
MANIFOLD
COMPONENT
BLOCK
PILOT TUBE
IGNITER
WIRE
BURNER AND OTHER
FITTINGS NOT SHOW
FOR CLARITY.
MANIFOLD DOOR
RED WIRES TO
d,ZD>^t/d,ΈϮΉ
RETAINER
CLIP
PILOT / THERMOPILE
ASSEMBLY SCREW
Figure 18.

18 • Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook
SERVICE PROCEDURES
B. Installing the New Pilot/
Thermopile Assembly
1. Read this step carefully before
proceeding. Using the old pilot/
pilot tube assembly as a guide,
bend the new pilot tube to match
the old one. Make only the bends
closest to the pilot before going to
the next step.
2. Route the new pilot tube and
wires through the opening in the
manifold door. See Figure 18 on
page 17.
PILOT/THERMOPILE ASSEMBLY
PILOT/THERMOPILE
ASSEMBLY
IGNITER
CONNECTOR
THERMAL
SWITCH
CONNECTORS
ΈZt/Z^Ή
PILOT THERMOPILE
KEEdKZΈ^Ή
ΈKEEdd
GAS CONTROL VALVE/
d,ZDK^ddΉ
FOR CLARITY, PILOT
TUBE NOT SHOWN .
Figure 19.
PILOT ASSEMBLY FOR CAST
BURNER NOT SHOWN.
EXPLODED VIEW OF PILOT/THERMOPILE ASSEMBLY.
FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. THE PILOT/THERMOPILE
ASSEMBLY SHOULD BE INSTALLED/SERVICED AS A SINGLE UNIT.
DO NOT DISASSEMBLE.
PILOT
PILOT BRACKET
ORIFICE
ΈKDWKEEd^Ή
PILOT TUBE
THESE TWO PARTS MAY BE
COMBINED ON SOME MODELS.
THERMOPILE
Figure 20.
3. Using the pilot screw removed
earlier, attach the new pilot/
thermopile assembly. Reattach
the burner to the manifold using
the screws removed earlier. NOTE:
If your burner includes a burner
scoop, make sure that it is oriented
to the pilot side of the manifold
tube. See Figure 17 on page 17.
4. Reinstall the manifold component
block in the manifold door. Ensure
that the pilot tube and wires are
positioned as shown in Figure 21.
5. Carefully bend the new pilot tube
to match the bend of the manifold
tube. NOTE: When bending, DO
NOT crimp or crease the pilot tube.
6. Before you proceed to the next
step, install the new brass ferrule
nut in the gas control valve/
thermostat’s pilot tube opening,
HAND TIGHT ONLY.
7. Install the manifold/burner
assembly.
RED THERMAL SWITCH WIRE
CONNECTIONS AT
MANIFOLD DOOR
ZΈнΉd,ZD>^t/d,t/Z
CONNECTS TO THE GAS CONTROL
VALVE\THERMOSTAT.
t,/dΈͳΉd,ZDKW/>
WIRE CONNECTS TO THE GAS
CONTROL VALVE\
THERMOSTAT.
/'E/dZt/ZW^^^
THROUGH CENTER OF
DE/&K>KDWKEEd
>K<Έ^D>>^d,K>Ή
W/>KddhW^^^d,ZKh',KddKD,K>
K&DE/&K>KDWKEEd>K<Έ>Z'^d,K>Ή
d,ZDKW/>t/Z^W^^
d,ZKh',dKW,K>K&
DE/&K>KDWKEEd
BLOCK
MANIFOLD
KDWKEEd
BLOCK
Figure 21.
External InspecƟon and
Cleaning of the Base-
Ring Filter
1. At least annually, check the base-
ring filter for any dust or debris that
may have accumulated on the filter
screen. See Figure 22. NOTE: If the
water heater is located in an area
that is subjected to lint and dirt,
it may be necessary to check the
base-ring filter more frequently.
2. Follow the Lighting Instructions to
turn off the water heater and allow
it to cool for 10 minutes before
attempting to clean the base-ring
filter.
3. Use a vacuum cleaner with a hose
attachment to remove any dust or
debris that may have accumulated
on the filter. NOTE: If you are
unable to inspect or clean the base-
ring filter, follow the “Cleaning the
Combustion Chamber and Flame
Arrestor” instructions.
4. After the base-ring filter has
been cleaned, follow the Lighting
Instructions to return the water
heater to service.
DOOR GASKET
FLAME ARRESTOR
COMBUSTION CHAMBER
BASE-RING
FILTER
Figure 22.
Cleaning the
CombusƟon Chamber
and Flame Arrestor
1. Follow procedure outlined in
“Removing the Manifold/Burner
Assembly.”
2. Use a vacuum cleaner/shop vac
to remove all loose debris in
the combustion chamber. See
Figure 22. Use compressed air to
clear any dust or debris that may
have accumulated in the flame-
arrestor. (To clean the flame
arrestor, you may use a soft plastic
brush under water heater. Vacuum
lint from brush. Repeat until brush
is clean.)

Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook • 19
SERVICE PROCEDURES
3. Reassemble following the
procedure under “Replacing the
Manifold/Burner Assembly.”
Replacing the Manifold/
Burner Assembly
Explosion Risk
WARNING!
• Tighten both manifold door screws
securely.
• Remove any fiberglass between
gasket and combustion chamber.
• Replace viewport if glass is missing
or damaged.
• Replace manifold component block
if it is missing or has been removed.
• Replace door gasket if it is
damaged.
• Failure to follow these instructions
can result in death, explosion, or
fire.
1. Check the door gasket for damage
or imbedded debris prior to
installation. See Figure 22.
2. Inspect the viewport for
damage and replace as required
(Figure 16, page 17).
3. Insert the new manifold/
burner assembly into the burner
compartment, making sure that
the tab of the manifold tube
engages the slot of the bracket
inside the combustion chamber.
See Figure 23.
MANIFOLD TUBE
TIP BRACKET
SLOT
CLOSE-UP INSIDE VIEW OF
THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER.
Figure 23.
4. Inspect the door gasket and make
sure there is no fiberglass insulation
between the gasket and the
combustion chamber. (Figure 22.)
5. Tighten the two screws that secure
the manifold/burner assembly to
the combustion chamber. (Use a
1/4” nut driver.) There should be no
space between the gasket part of
the manifold door and combustion
chamber
IMPORTANT: Do not operate the
water heater if the door gasket
does not create a seal between the
manifold door and the combustion
chamber.
6. Reconnect the manifold tube (3/4”
wrench) and pilot tube (7/16” wrench)
to the gas control valve/thermostat.
See Figure 15 on page 17. Do not
cross-thread or apply any thread
sealant to the fittings.
IMPORTANT: If you were supplied
with a new ferrule nut in a parts kit,
follow these steps to connect the
pilot tube:
A.) Install the ferrule nut into the gas
valve at the pilot tube location,
hand tight only.
B.) Insert the pilot tube into the
ferrule nut until the tube
bottoms out, then tighten the
nut with a 7/16” wrench until
the crimp connection seals to
the pilot tube.
C.) Continue to tighten until the nut
is tight in the gas valve.
7. Connect the white and red wires to
the gas control valve/thermostat
as shown in Figure 15, page 17.
Also, ensure that the red thermal
switch wires are connected to the
thermal switch (TCO switch) on the
manifold door. See Figure 21 on
page 18.
8. Reconnect the igniter wire. (Figure
15, page 17).
9. Turn on the gas supply to the water
heater at the manual gas shut-off
valve. (Figure 1, page 6).
10. Follow the lighting instructions
on the front of the water heater.
With the main burner lit, check
for leaks at the manifold and
pilot connections by brushing on
an approved noncorrosive leak
detection solution. If such a solution
is not available, use a mixture of
hand dish washing soap and water
(one part soap to 15 parts water)
or childrens’ soap bubble solution.
Bubbles forming indicate a leak.
Correct any leak found.
11. Verify proper operation, then
replace the outer door.
TesƟng the Igniter
System
The piezoelectric igniter system consists
of an igniter button, an electrode, and
wire. The pilot is ignited by an electric
spark generated when the igniter
button is pressed. See Figure 24.
VAC
PILOT/
THERMOPILE
BRACKET
ELECTRODE
THERMOPILE
PILOT
IGNITER BUTTON
WIRE TO ELECTRODE
Figure 24.
To test the igniter system, follow these
steps:
1. Turn off the gas to the water heater
at the manual gas shut-off valve.
(See Figure 1, page 6.)
2. Watch the electrode tip while
activating the igniter. (If the room
is dim enough, try looking through
the view port [Figure 16].)
A. A visible spark should jump from
the electrode. To avoid shock, do
not touch the burner or any metal

20 • Residential Standard Gas Water Heater Service Handbook
SERVICE PROCEDURES
part on the pilot or pilot assembly.
If no spark is visible, check the
wire connections and make sure
that the electrode is not broken.
See also “Connections Check” (p.
11).
B. Replace the igniter if defective
(i.e., gas control valve/
thermostat and/or pilot/
thermopile assembly). Dirt and
rust on the pilot or electrode tip
can prevent the igniter spark.
Wipe clean with a damp cloth
and dry completely. Rust can
be removed from the electrode
tip and metal surfaces by lightly
sanding with an emery cloth or
fine grit sandpaper.
Removing and Replacing
the Gas Control Valve/
Thermostat
IMPORTANT: This water heater has a
resettable thermal switch installed. Do
not attempt to disable or modify this
feature in any way. Use only factory
authorized replacement parts.
Removing the Gas Control
Valve/Thermostat:
1. Turn the gas control/temperature
knob to the “OFF” position.
(Figure 6, page 9.)
2. Turn off the gas at the manual shut-
off valve on the gas supply pipe.
(Figure 1, page 6.)
3. Drain the water heater. Refer to
the “Draining and Flushing” section
and follow the procedure.
4. Disconnect the igniter wire from
the igniter lead wire. Use needle
nose pliers to disconnect the
red (+) and white (-) thermopile
wires. Disconnect the pilot tube
(7/16” wrench) and manifold
tube (3/4” wrench) at the gas
control valve/thermostat. See
Figure 15 on page 17.
5. Disconnect the ground joint
union in the gas piping. See
Figure 1, page 6. Disconnect
the remaining pipe from the gas
control valve/thermostat.
6. To remove the gas control valve/
thermostat, thread a 4” section of
gas pipe into the inlet and use it to
turn the gas control valve/thermostat
(counterclockwise.) Do not use a
pipe wrench or equivalent to grip
body. Damage may result, causing
leaks. Do not insert any sharp objects
into the inlet or outlet connections.
Damage to the gas control valve/
thermostat may result.
Replacing the Gas Control Valve/
Thermostat:
To replace the gas control valve/
thermostat, reassemble in reverse
order. When replacing the gas control
valve/thermostat, thread a 4” section
of gas pipe into the inlet and use it to
turn the gas control valve/thermostat
(clockwise). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN;
damage may result.
• Be sure to use approved Teflon®
tape or pipe joint compound on the
gas piping connections and fitting
on the back of the gas control valve
that screws into the tank.
• Be sure to remove the pilot ferrule
nut from the new gas control valve/
thermostat.
• Turn the main gas supply on and
check the gas supply connections
for leaks. Correct any leak found.
Next, light the pilot and main
burner, then check the manifold
tube and pilot tube connections
for leaks. Correct any leak found.
Use an approved noncorrosive
leak detection solution. If such
a solution is not available, use
a mixture of hand dish washing
soap and water (one part soap to
15 parts water) or childrens’ soap
bubble solution. Bubbles forming
indicate a leak.
• Be sure tank is completely filled
with water before lighting and
activating the water heater. Follow
the “Lighting Instructions” on the
front of the water heater.
TEFLON® is a registered trademark of
E.I. Du Pont De Nemours and Company
Draining and Flushing
WARNING! Hot Water Discharge
Hazard:
• Keep clear of temperature/
pressure relief valve discharge.
• Temperature limiting valves are
available.
• Read instruction manual for
information on a safe temperature
setting.
It is recommended that the tank be
drained and flushed every 6 months
to remove sediment which may build
up during operation. The water heater
should be drained if being shut down
during freezing temperatures. To drain
the tank, perform the following steps:
1. Turn off the gas to the water heater
at the manual gas shut-off valve.
2. Open a nearby hot water faucet
until the water is no longer hot.
3. Close the cold water inlet valve.
4. Connect a hose to the drain valve
and terminate it to an adequate
drain or external to the building.
5. Open the water heater drain valve
and allow all of the water to drain
from the tank. Flush the tank with
water as needed to remove sediment.
6. Close the drain valve, refill the tank,
and restart the water heater as
directed in the lighting instructions.
(The lighting instructions are
posted on the front of the water
heater.) Ensure that the water
heater is full of water before you
light the pilot.
If the water heater is going to be
shut down for an extended period,
the drain valve should be left
open. IMPORTANT: Condensation
may occur when refilling the tank and
should not be confused with a tank
leak.