StewMac G-STYLE GUITAR KIT User manual

Sheet #i-5202 Updated 10/18
Assembly Instructions
Welcome to guitar building! If you’re a first-time builder,
this kit is a great way to start. You’ll have fun and learn a lot.
This simple kit is an excellent entry into electric guitar
assembly. It can be built with basic tools. You’ll learn to cut
the peghead shape, attach the neck, and wire it up. After
you build it, we’ll show you how to set it up to play tip-top.
StewMac
G-STYLE GUITAR KIT

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Tools and supplies .................................... 
Parts list .............................................. 3
Create your peghead shape ........................... 4
Set the neck .......................................... 5
Fretwork ............................................. 7
Assemble your guitar ................................. 9
Wire the electronics ...................................11
Final setup ...........................................12
These are the tools and supplies we recommend for assem-
bling this kit. StewMac item numbers are included where
applicable.
Tools
Electric hand drill
Saw for peghead: band saw, jigsaw, or coping saw
Screwdrivers: Phillips, sizes #1 and #2 (#3000)
Flat blade, size 5.0mm (#3000)
Drill bits: 1/16" (#1710)
5/64" (#1712)
Nut slotting files: .013" width (#0823)
.020" width (#0828)
.035" width (#0832)
Fretting hammer (#4895)
Fret crowning file (#1602 or #4491)
Radius sanding block 12" (#0412)
Swivel handle clamp, total of 3 (#3704)
Straightedge (#3850)
6" Steel rule (#4905)
Nut driver, size 10mm (#5890, or wrench #3691)
Wire stripper, for fine gauge wire (#1606)
Adjustable wrench, 4" size (#1680)
Soldering iron (#0502 or #0515)
No-Chip Countersink (#1695)
Supplies
Wood glue (Titebond original, #0620)
Glue brush (#4167)
3M Scotch-Brite pad (#7445, light duty), or 0000 steel wool
Blue permanent marker
ColorTone Lemon Oil (#3864)
Guitar Finishing Step-By-Step Book (#5095)
Tools and supplies
Table of contents

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Parts list
Neck
Body
Pickguard with mounting screws
Tuners with bushings, washers, and screws (6)
4mm hex wrench for adjusting truss rod
Truss rod cover with mounting screws
Strap buttons with cushions and screws
Generic strings for preliminary set up
(also included higher quality strings for actual use)
Hookup wire 9.5" and 5.25" lengths
3-way toggle switch
Capacitors (2)
Output jack
Solder
Humbucking pickups (set of 2)
Control pots with mounting hardware (set of 4)
Control knobs (set of 4)
Control cavity cover with mounting screws
Bridge with posts and bushings
Tailpiece with posts and bushings
Output cord

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You can trace a favorite peghead or come up with a look all
of your own. You’ll be cutting your design from the blank
peghead on the kit’s neck.
Make a template
Sketch out your peghead design on a piece of cardboard
or heavy paper and cut it to shape with scissors. Using a
pencil, trace the shape onto the peghead. Use a light touch
that doesn’t dent or compress the wood which could make
sanding out any unwanted lines difficult. Don’t use ink,
because it leaves permanent stains that can even bleed up
through an opaque guitar finish.
Cut the shape
It’s important that your saw stays square to the face of the
peghead while you cut. If it tilts to an angle, you’ll get a
sloppy result that takes a lot of sanding to correct. Use a
bandsaw if you have one; a jigsaw is also good. A hand-held
coping saw can also be used, but it’s tough to hand-saw
smooth clean curves.
Never cut on the line
Always cut just outside the line, so you can sand to the line
afterward.
Smooth your saw cuts to create your peghead shape using
rasps, files and sandpaper. Don’t rush: rough patches will
disappear into a good final shape if you take your time.
When you’re happy with your peghead shape, sand the cut
edges smooth using 150-grit sandpaper followed by 220-
grit, then 320-grit.
Create your peghead shape

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Set the neck
This is a set-neck kit with a mortise and tenon joint, meaning
the heel of the neck (the tenon) is glued securely into the
neck cavity (the mortise).
Before gluing up the neck do a dry run first. Using two clamps
and a caul on the back of the body to prevent denting the
wood lightly clamp the neck into place. Note there will be
side to side movement of the neck.
There will be some gaps and chips around the joint; this is
normal for a production guitar. These will get filled when
you prep for finishing.
Take a 12" ruler or straightedge and line it up along the treble
edge of the neck, paying attention to where it falls in relation
to the treble side bridge stud hole. Then line it up with the
bass side of the neck and check it to the bass side stud hole.

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Set the neck
Loosen the clamps just slightly and adjust the position of
the neck until you have even space between the bridge
mounting holes. When achieved tighten the clamps securely.
Mark a line in the cavity and on the tenon to use as reference
when gluing up the neck.
Make note of your actual gluing surface and spread glue on
the bottom of the tenon. Repeat the same process as above
using your reference line to get you in the ballpark. When
properly aligned tighten up the two clamps on the tenon
and add a third over the fretboard end using a radius caul
to prevent damaging the frets.
Once the neck is seated remove any excess glue squeeze
out with a damp cloth. Watch for further squeeze out over
the next 15-30 minutes.
Let dry overnight.

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Fretwork
Run your fingers lightly along the edge of the fretboard
and feel for sharp fret ends. If the fret ends feel sharp where
they meet the edge of the neck, gently sand them back with
320-grit sandpaper using long strokes down the length of
the neck. Use care not to change the bevel of the frets in
the process.
Straighten the neck
Use the 4mm hex wrench to adjust the truss rod. With a
straightedge on the frets, adjust the truss rod until the
straightedge touches all of the fret tops without rocking.
Turn the truss rod nut counterclockwise (viewed from the
peghead end) to loosen the truss rod, allowing the neck to
bow upward. Turning it right tightens the rod, pulling the
neck back.
For more information, see our Trade Secrets article #33 “Don’t
be nervous about adjusting that truss rod!” at stewmac.com.
Seat the frets
The frets come installed, but they need a little work to
achieve the best playability. Use a fretting hammer to make
sure the frets are all seated properly. The more even your fret
tops are, the less leveling work there is to do later.
stewmac.com search: ts33

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Level the frets
Use adhesive backed sandpaper or double-stick tape to
attach 320-grit sandpaper to the 9.5" radius sanding block.
With this, level the frets using full length strokes down the
fretboard.
Leveling will leave flat tops on the frets. Use a fret crowning
file to restore their rounded shape.
Reapply blue marker to the fret tops. By filing the sides of the
frets, bring in the edges of the flats left over from leveling.
With a rounding motion, keep bringing in these edges until
all that remains of the top is a very thin line. Don’t remove
this line entirely; filing the fret tops would undo your leveling.
Polishing the frets
Using 400 grit, then 600 grit sandpaper wrapped around a
foam block, run up and down the entire length of the fret-
board. Polish the frets by going over each one with extra fine
Scotch-Brite or 0000 steel wool. Follow up by cleaning the
fretboard with ColorTone Lemon Oil or your favorite condi-
tioner. Use care not to get any excess oil on the bare wood.
Color the fret tops with a blue permanent marker to prepare
them for leveling. The blue ink will show your progress: the
frets are level when sanding has removed some of the blue
across all of the fret tops.
Fretwork

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Assemble your guitar
Assemble your guitar on a soft pad or cardboard to prevent
denting or scratching the instrument.
Install the tuners
Starting with the bottom set of pegholes, lay out the tuners
with a ruler to make sure they are in line with one another.
Mark out the mounting holes with a scribe or transfer punch.
Tuner mounting screws are very delicate. Use a 5/64" drill
bit to make pilot holes for the screws; if these holes are any
smaller you risk shearing off the screw heads. Lubricate the
screw threads by dragging them across soap or wax for
smooth installation.
With the tuners in place, install the screws in the pilot holes
with a #1 Phillips screwdriver. On the tuner string post, add
a washer then the threaded bushing. Tighten with a 10mm
nut driver or wrench.
Install the body bushings
Install the tailpiece bushings. It’s a good idea to slightly
chamfer the holes for the bushings to prevent any chipping.
Cut the edge back just larger than the outside diameter of
the knurling.
Note that there is a ground wire access hole connecting the
treble side tailpiece post hole to the control cavity, this is for
the string ground. The 7" ground wire needs to be installed
before the bushing. Strip 1/2" off of both ends and run the
wire through the hole into the cavity leaving the stripped
end to come in contact with the bushing once installed.
Install the tailpiece bushings. Pressing them in with a drill
press is the preferred method but they can also be installed
with gentle hammer taps using a block of wood between
the bushing and hammer.
Install the bridge bushings in the same fashion.
Bushing hole
before chamfering
Bushing hole
with chamfer
Ground wire
in bushing hole

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Drill for cover plates and pickguard
Use a sharp point, such as a scribe (#1672), to mark out the
mounting holes for the control cavity cover and truss rod
cover. Then, drill pilot holes for the screws using a 1/16" bit
stopping at 3/8" deep. Next, center the truss rod cover over
the truss rod cavity and mark it out. Using a 1/16" bit, drill
holes 3/16" deep.
Install the strap buttons
Mount the tail strap button. The top button screws into the
back of the body, just beyond the heel. Drill a 3/32" pilot
hole, 1/2" deep.
Install the pickups
Drop the bridge and neck pickups in place. The pickup with
the taller mounting ring is the bridge pickup, the pickup with
the short mounting ring is the neck pickup.
Install the tune-o-matic bridge and tailpiece. String up the
low and high E strings from the generic string set, to use as
reference.
Line up the neck pickup so it is square to the end of the
fretboard and the E strings are evenly above the polepieces.
Mark the locations of the holes.
Now carefully line up the bridge pickup to make sure it is
square to the neck pickup, temporarily positioning the pick-
guard in place will help with this step. After you've marked
the holes, remove the strings and pickups. Then drill the
holes with a 1/16" bit, 3/8" deep. Install the pickups. After the
pickups are mounted attach the pickguard with the same
bit and depth mentioned above.
Assemble your guitar

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Wire the electronics
stewmac.com search: ts186
This kit comes with 9.5" and 5.25" lengths of hookup wire,
more than enough wire than you'll need but it gives you
plenty of extra in case something accidentally gets cut too
short. The longer lengths are for running the string ground
and output jack, the shorter for connecting the pots and
switch.
Make a cardboard template that matches the hole pattern
of the controls for proper parts spacing and easy soldering.
There are two different taper control pots included, 2 A500k
pots for volume and 2 B500K pots for the tone controls. Peel
the wires apart and cut to length giving yourself a little slack
between components. Strip about 1/8" of the insulation off
of the ends of each wire, twist each end tight then coat them
with a little solder; this is called “tinning”. Tinning the wire
ends as well as the lugs on the switch, pot, and jack will help
your solder joints flow together quicker and cleaner.
Solder up your circuit following the wiring diagram to the
right.
For help with soldering, see our Trade Secrets video #186
“How to get a good clean solder joint!” at stewmac.com.
Output
jack
Toggle
switch
Neck
Out
Bridge
Ground
Ground
to bridge
Neck
V
Neck
T
Bridge
V
Bridge
T
.022μF
.022μF
Neck Bridge
NV
BV BT
NT

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Final setup
Adjust the neck
Install the remaining generic strings.
Neck relief refers to adjusting a neck so that it has a very slight
upbow, rather than being perfectly straight. This relief allows
a little more room for string vibration, reducing the chance
of hitting the lower frets and causing fret buzz.
Depending on your playing style, and how perfectly level
your fret tops are, a neck should be anywhere from perfectly
straight to having 0.012" of relief. This measurement refers
to additional string height over the 12th fret, compared to
a perfectly straight neck.
A straight neck tends to play and sound better, but very few
guitars end up with no relief at all, and several thousandths
of an inch or more is perfectly normal.
You can use a straightedge or the low E string to get you in
the ballpark. Using your index finger, hold down the E string
at the first fret. With the other hand, hold down the string at
the 17th fret with your thumb and use your index finger to
check for relief. The smaller the gap between the bottom of
the string and the top of the frets, the straighter the neck.
Lower the nut slots
Once the neck is adjusted to the desired straightness, the
nut slots will need to be lowered for the best playability.
Measure the gap between the bottom of the string and the
top of the 1st fret.
A comfortable medium action over the first fret is .012" for
the plain strings (G,B,E), and .020" for the wound strings
(E,A,D).
Use feeler gauges to measure the gap or use guitar string
scraps whose gauges match the measurement you are shoot-
ing for. Using just a few file strokes at a time, stop filing when
the string sits on the top of your feeler gauge, whatever it
may be. Take your time and check your work frequently. It
is easy to go too far lowering the slots thus ruining the nut.
Turn the truss rod nut
counterclockwise to bring
the neck up, adding relief.
Measure string relief
at the 12th fret.
Turn clockwise to pull the
neck back, reducing relief.
Go slow: a little does a lot!

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Set the string height
Adjust the bridge action using the thumbwheels on bass and
treble sides. Measure the gaps between the bottom of the
low and high E strings and the top of the 12th fret.
Factory action for the high at the 12th fret is 1/16" for the
high E string, and 5/64" for the low E.
Adjust the pickup height
One at a time, hold the low and high E strings down at the
22nd fret.
Adjust the neck pickup to 1/16" between the bottoms of the
low and high E strings and the top of the pole pieces. Adjust
the bridge pickup to 3/32".
Set the intonation
The last step is intonating the guitar by adjusting the string
lengths at the bridge saddles. This will help ensure that the
guitar plays in tune all the way up the neck.
Remove the generic strings and install the higher quality set.
Tune the strings to pitch using a strobe or other accurate
tuner. Then, press the high E string lightly at the 12th fret
with just enough pressure on the fret to sound the note.
Check it with your tuner.
If the note reads flat, the saddle needs to be adjusted forward
towards the nut, shortening the length of the string. If the
note reads sharp, the saddle needs to be adjusted back away
from the nut, increasing the string length.

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You’re done!
Congratulations!
Your guitar is now ready for finishing. We hope this guitar
will be the first of many that you have fun assembling and
customizing. For detailed information about applying a
great looking finish check out our book Guitar Finishing
Step-By-Step.
Be sure to get a gig bag or case, so it doesn’t get banged
around!

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USA & Canada call toll-free: 800-848-2273
9am-6pm weekdays Eastern time
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