Superior Water 32-1000 User manual

1
MODEL 32-1000 & 48-1000
OWNER’S MANUAL
Congratulations on having bought a quality and well built Superior Water Softener. On a normal
installation, your water softener should be connected to all of your plumbing with the exceptions
of your kitchen cold side and your outside faucets. The plumbing connection is made by using
three valves that are generally located directly above the water softener. These three valves
constitute the bypass, which look like the letter “H” when looking at it. In the event that you
should have to shut the water off to the water softener due to a leak, continue with the following
instructions.
TO SHUT THE WATER OFF ON THE SOFTENER
1.) Directly above the water softener are three valves, turn the left and right valves
closed by turning the valves in a clockwise direction.
2.) Turn the middle valve open by turning it counter clockwise. The water should
now be turned off on the water softener and you should have water to your house.
THE SALT AND WATER LEVEL INSIDE THE SALT TANK
It is recommended that the salt level not fall more than 3"(inches) below the water level inside
the salt tank. The water level inside a round salt tank is generally 1ft to 1 half feet deep. The
square salt tanks are generally about half to two thirds full of water. Should the softener run out
of salt or you allow the salt level to drop down too far, you may experience hard and/or salty
water. To avoid this, we recommend keeping the salt tank full of salt or at least keeping the salt
level above the water level at all times. Should you experience salty water coming through your
plumbing, the quickest way to flush it out is running the cold water inside your bathtub until the
salt is all flushed out.
Your water softener will function with any type of salt; however our experience has shown us
that fewer problems will occur when using salt pellets. Salt pellets are cleaner, rarely have any
debris and they do not have a tendency to form salt bridges as does rock salt. Also rock salt has
a tendency to carry more dirt and debris with it, which in turns make your salt tank appear very
dirty inside and at times cause it to have a foul odor. However, this dirt will not harm the water
softener.
OPERATING THE WATER SOFTENER
1.) Plug the timer into electricity and set the time of day by following the instructions
on the following page.
2.) Set the timer to regenerate as often as your needs dictates by following the
instructions that come with the timer. Generally a family of 2-3 can have the water
softener regenerate every 4-6 days, a family of 4-5 every 3 days, a family of 6 every
other day, and a family of more than 6 every day regeneration may be needed.
3.) Pour salt into the salt tank. It is recommended that you keep the salt above the water
level. On a round salt tank, there should be about 1 foot to 1 ½ feet of water in the
salt tank. On any other size tank, the tank is generally half way full of water.

2
4.) Turn the water on, if not yet done, by turning the right & left valves open and closing
the middle valve.
Note: The middle bypass valve must be closed in order to have soft water.
5.) Should you ever run out of salt or almost run out of it, set the softener to regenerate 3
nights in a row by pushing in all the pins that are located on the lower left hand gear
of the timer. After the 3 days have passed, reset the pins to the way they were
previous to this.
SETTING THE TIMER

3
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Softener will not
regenerate.
A. Bad electrical connection.
B. Broken motor
C. Broken or stripped gears.
A. Check electrical connection.
B. Replace motor.
C. Replace gears.
Drain opens but water
does not leave salt tank.
A. Low inlet water pressure.
B. Broken or torn diaphragm.
C. Retaining ring missing.
D. Foreign material on stem or
internal seats.
E. Drain line kinked or restricted.
A. Increase inlet water pressure.
B. Replace diaphragm.
C. Add retain ring.
D. Clean stem and seat on main
body.
E. Straighten or unrestrict drain line.
Softener does not draw
brine.
A. Plugged injector screen.
B. Plugged or worn injector.
C. Inadequate backwash.
D. Low inlet water pressure.
E. Broken or plugged brine float
F. Kinked or restricted drain line.
A. Clean or replace.
B. Clean or replace.
C. Adjust backwash flow rate with
backwash adjuster.
D. Increase water pressure.
E. Clean or replace.
F. Straighten or unrestrict drain line.
Low or inadequate
capacity after
regeneration.
A. Plugged injector.
B. Plugged injector screen.
C. Increase in water consumption.
D. Insufficient quantity of brine.
E. Ran out of salt at one time.
A. Clean or replace.
B. Clean or replace.
C. Increase frequency of regeneration.
D. Raise float level on brine valve.
E. Regenerate softener 3 nights in-a-row.
Water chatter at unit
during regeneration
A. High backwash rate.
B. Low water pressure.
C. Diaphragm spring not properly
located on stem.
D. Restricted drain line.
A. Adjust backwash flow adjuster
B. Increase water pressure.
C. Locate spring on tip of stem assembly.
D. Straighten or unrestrict drain line.
Water flows to drain
when not regenerating.
A. Foreign matter trapped in drain
valve.
B. Drain seat out of adjustment.
A. Attempt to flush out by putting unit into
regeneration or with thumb push down
on drain valve and release.
B. Replace drain assembly.
Salt in lines after
regeneration.
A. Rinse rate to low.
B. Excessive brine in salt tank.
C. Insufficient rinse time.
A. Change to larger injector disk.
B. Lower float setting or check for leak on
float.
C. Increase length of regeneration cycle.
Valve leaking between
body and head
assembly or backcap.
A. Torn diaphragm or pinched
outlet gasket.
A. Replace items.
To much water in brine
tank.
A. Foreign matter in brine float.
B. Loose brine float fittings.
A. Clean or replace brine float.
B. Tighten or replace brine float fittings.
No water in brine tank. A. Brine float set to low. A. On Round and 15x15 Square salt tanks
adjust brine float to allow 1 to 1½ ft. of
water. On 11x11 Square salt tanks, set float
to approximately fill tank half full.

4
Brine Level
DRAIN
Brine Level
DRAIN
BACKWASH
The backwash cycle position directs water
to flow down through the distributor tube
and up throught the filter media and to
drain. Foreigh material and media fines are
flushed from the mineral tank during this
cycle to prepare the media for filtering.
OUTLET INLET OUTLET INLET
SERVICE
WATER FLOW
The service cycle position directs
untreated water to flow down through
the filter media in the mineral tank and
up through the distributor tube. The
water is conditioned when passing
through the media.

5
BRINE FLOAT
6" to 8"
Water enters and
leaves from here
Used to adjust
water level
Can be unscrewed
to remove debris
from inside
A.
B.
C.
Fitting
D. John Guest fitting
E. Rubber gromet
F. Rubber gromet
A. Used to adjust water level. In round salt tanks, the water level should be anywhere from 1 ft. to 1½ ft.
In square tanks, the tank should be ½ to 2/3 full of water.
B. Unscrewing this nut allows you enter the chamber where debriscan be easily removed
C. Compression fitting.
D. John Guest fitting.
E & F. Rubber gromets that hold float ball in place on the fiberglass rod.

6

7
ELECTROMECHANICAL POWER HEAD PARTS LIST
ITEM
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
P/N
15-76
529-309
525-303
52-308
529-232-1
19-3
529-218
529-212
529-333-1
15-185-10
525-274-1
525-241-2
525-205
15-87
529-245
529-219-3
401-7
185-0221-1
529-286
529-280
15-92-2
15-76
30-77-_*
516-221
15-185-10
14-11
525-260
525-254-2
529-234-_**
529-220-1
28-8-28
28-142-2
DESCRIPTION
Screw
Time Dial
Spring Washer, (Small)
Locating Dial
Gear, Time Of Day (12 Day)
C-clip
Actuator
Spindle, Actuator
Housing, Power Head
Screw, Day Selector Wheel
Washer, Day Indicator (12 Day)
Day Selector Wheel (12 Day)
Spring Washer, (Large)
Screw, Head Mount
Cycle Cam & Knob Assembly
Drain Plunger Assembly
Return Spring, Drain Plunger
O-ring, Plunger Cap
Plunger Cap
Retainer, Drain Plunger
Screw, Retainer
Screw, Timer Motor
Timer Motor
Return Spring, Main Diaphragm
Screw, Ratchet
Washer, Ratchet
Ratchet
Gear, Ratchet (12 Day)
Front Cover
Rear Cover (Gray)
Strain Relief
Power Cord (120 Volt)
QTY
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
* Indicate Voltage
** Indicate Opaque or Clear

8

9
VALVE BODY PARTS LIST
ITEM
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26
27.
28.
P/N
15-88
541-207
541-206
541-325
428-_
541-221
15-89
413-13
541-254
186-111-N
541-273
19-19
541-243
529-244
541-244
185-024-1
541-204
185-028-12
541-256
19-3
516-221
19-90
185-231-1
541-232
185-211-1
541-205
185-029-1
541-257-1
DESCRIPTION
Screw, Backcap
Backcap, 3 Cycle
Seal, Backcap
Gasket, Injector
Injector (Specify Size)
Cover Plate, Injector
Screw, Injector Mount
Filter Screen, Injector
Spring Clip
O-ring, Brine Fitting
Brine Fitting
C-clip, Backwash Flow Adjuster
Backwash Flow Adjuster w/o-rings
Gasket, Cross Over Port
Body Stem Assembly
O-ring (Small), Seat Insert
Seat Insert
O-ring (Large), Seat Insert
Main Diaphragm
C-clip, Main Diaphragm
Return Spring, Main Diaphragm
Screw, Adapter Ring
O-ring
Adapter Ring
O-ring, 13/16" Riser Adapter
13/16" Riser Adapter
O-ring (Outside), Riser Adapter
Valve Body & Seal
QTY
4
1
1
1
1
1
3
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1