Temp-Cast 2000 Supplement

Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
OWNER’S MANUAL &WARRANTY

Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION I: INTRODUCTION (Page 1)
1. In This Booklet
2. Getting Help
3. Warranty Statement
SECTION II: CURING THE FIREPLACE (Page 2)
1. Why Curing Is Important
2. The Curing Procedure
SECTION III: NORMAL OPERATION (Page 4)
1. Lighting the Fire
2. The "Top-Down" Burn
3. Adjusting HeatOutput
4. Overfiring
5. Operating the Bake Oven
6. Open Fireplace Mode
7. Burning Safely
SECTION IV: DRAFT & NEGATIVE PRESSURE (Page 7)
1. Draft Basics
2. The Stack Effect
3. Other Factors Affecting Draft
4. Checking for Draft
5. Replacement Air
SECTION V: COMBUSTION EFFICIENCY (Page 10)
1. What Is It?
2. Good Burning Techniques
3. The Right Fuel
4. Wood Moisture Content
5. Wood Storage
SECTION VI: CHIMNEY DAMPERS (Page 12)
1. Chimney Damper Types
2. Using the Chimney Damper
3. Full Closure Dampers
SECTION VII: CLEANING & MAINTENANCE (Page 13)
1. Chimney System
2. Heat Exchange Channels
3. Care Of The Firebox
4. Care Of The Glass
5. Care Of Metal Parts
6. Ash Removal
7. Replacing the Door Gasket
SECTION VIII: TROUBLESHOOTING (Page 15)
SECTION IX: WARRANTY (Page 16)

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Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
SECTION I - INTRODUCTION
IN THIS BOOKLET
This manual has been prepared to
help you to operate and maintain
your Temp-Cast fireplace safely and
efficiently, so that it can provide you
with the maximum in performance
and enjoyment.
GETTING HELP
If a question about your fireplace
arises that is not answered by the
Planning Guide, Installation Manual
or this Owner's Manual, please
contact your dealer or the factory at:
TEMP-CAST LLC
8820 Grey Cloud Island Dr S
St. Paul Park, MN 55071
[phone]
WARRANTY
Temp-Cast Fireplaces are warranted
for a period of 5 years from date of
purchase, except that metal parts
are warranted for 1 year. This
warranty is limited to repair or
replacement of the defective part
only, at the discretion of Temp-Cast
Enviroheat. It does not extend to
removal or replacement of chimneys,
masonry facades or any other
masonry work.
Occasionally, hairline thermal cracks
will occur in the refractory during the
curing process. These are not
structural and do not affect the
safety, performance or durability of
the fireplace and are therefore not
covered by this warranty. However,
if a crack causes a module to be
displaced from its normal position, or
causes the part to separate
completely into 2 or more pieces,
then it may be covered by this
warranty, subject to the limitations
noted elsewhere in this section.
Cracks of any kind in the masonry
facade are invariably caused by an
installation error and are not covered
by this warranty.
The fireplace and its masonryfacade
must be installed in accordance with
instructions in the appropriate
installation manual for the model
purchased and operated according
to this booklet.
In order to register the warranty,
please complete the enclosed
Registration Card and mail it to the
factory, within 30 days of installation,
with at least 4 photos (or video) of
the installation, showing -
•the completed core with
corrugated spacer
•close-up view of the facade
partially installed
•over-all view of the completed
fireplace & chimney, taken from
the front
•front view of a normal fire,
following the curingprocess
If you are contracting out the
installation and masonry work, we
suggest that you photograph (or
video) the assembly and
installation process and keep
these for your records.
Read this entire manual before
lighting the first fire and keep it
for future reference.

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Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
SECTION II - CURING THE FIREPLACE
WHY CURING IS IMPORTANT
A newly installed Temp-Cast
fireplace contains considerable
quantities of water. This water must
be slowly driven off before the
fireplace will heat up properly, and to
prevent the release of steam from
damaging the refractory. The
process of gradually releasing the
water is called curing.
In addition, if the heater has not
been burned for a few months, it
may have absorbed some water
from any humidity in the air. It is
always advisable to go through the
curing procedure before the first
normal firing, following a long period
of inactivity in humid weather.
The curing process attempts to
slowly raise the temperature of the
refractory, in increments of 100F.
(38C.), from 300F. (150C.) up to
750F. (400C.). This is done with
small, gradually hotter fires over a
few days.
Patiently following the curing
procedure below will ensure that the
fireplace will give long and reliable
service. Otherwise, the water
trapped in the fireplace may turn to
steam much too rapidly and may
crack the refractory, possibly
creating a structural crack. (Cracks
caused by failing to follow curing
instructions are not covered by the
warranty.)
THE CURING PROCEDURE
In hot weather, open all dampers
and doors and allow warm air to rise
through the fireplace.
Curing is accomplished by lighting a
series of small fires, which gradually
increase in size over 5 days, to
carefully raise the temperature of the
refractory.
It simplifies the process if you first
split about 100 lbs (45kg) of dry
firewood (about a wheelbarrow full)
into 2” to 3" (50mm to 75mm)
diameter pieces.
Do not use plywood or other woods
containing glues, resins or
chemicals. In addition, do not use
more than a sheet or two of
newspaper, since it tends to burn too
quickly for controlled curing.
Remember that you are not striving
for a hot fire during the early curing
stages - a "lazy" fire is preferred.
Controlling the amount of firewood &
loading frequency will give you the
necessary control. (NOTE: The
door(s) should not be left open
during these fires.)
During curing, especially in cold
weather, you may see steam
escaping from various areas of the
fireplace. (This is often mistaken for
smoke - simply smell it to convince
yourself.) The steam is the trapped
moisture being driven off and is
visible evidence of successful curing.
(If you do see and smell smoke,
review Section IV - Draft and
Negative Pressure.)

Section II - Curing the Fireplace
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Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
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5 DAY CURING SCHEDULE
The curing process should be done
over a period of 5 days. You will
control the process by the weight of
wood being loaded and the interval
between firings.
The goal is to gradually increase the
temperature of the refractory
material so that trapped water is
released slowly, visible as a small
amount of steam. However, if you
begin to see a large volume of steam
escaping, you may be increasing the
refractory temperature too quickly &
should reduce the fuel load or wait
longer between firings.
If you can’t see any steam escaping
at the end of the third day, you can
add a few more pieces of wood to
the fire. However patience is very
important here - it is far better to be
conservative during the curing
process. Rushing the curing by
putting too much wood into the
firebox or by firing too soon after the
previous fire could release the water
too rapidly, possibly cracking the
refractory. (This would not be
covered by the product warranty.)
DAY ONE:
1. Open the air supply and chimney
dampers. Light a kindling fire of 6
to 8 pieces of 1" (25mm) diameter
wood and twisted newspaper or
cedar shavings.
2. After 2 hours, re-kindle the fire
and add 2 or 3 pieces of 2”
diameter firewood. Allow this fire
to burn out completely.
3. Repeat as above with 3 or 4 more
fires for the day. (Leave the
chimney damper open.)
DAY TWO:
1. Re-kindle the fire as on the first
day. Allow it to burn out.
2. Wait 2 hours & start it again with
kindling and 2 or 3 pieces of 2”
firewood.
3. Wait 2 hours & re-light the fire with
kindling & 4 pieces of firewood.
4. Wait 3 hours and repeat Step 3.
Allow this fire to burn out.
DAY THREE:
1. Start the fire with kindling & 2 or 3
pieces of firewood.
2. After 2 hours, repeat with 4 or 5
pieces of wood.
3. After this fire has burned out, wait
2 hours & repeat Step 2.
4. Allow the fireplace to cool for 3
hours and then repeat with 6
pieces of firewood, if time permits.
DAY FOUR:
1. Start with kindling and 4 piecesof
fire wood.
2. Let the heater cool for 2 hours,
then repeat Step 1.
3. After 2 hours, light a fire with
kindling & 6 pieces of wood.
4. Allow the fireplace to cool for 4
hours & then repeat Step 3 if time
permits.
DAY FIVE:
1. Light the fire with kindling &6
pieces of wood.
2. Wait 3 hours & repeat, using 8 to
10 pieces of wood.
3. Wait 3 hours & repeat.
The curing process is complete at
this point & normal burning can be
done.

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Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
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SECTION III - NORMAL OPERATION
LIGHTING THE FIRE
Temp-Cast fireplaces are more
forgiving than other wood heaters, in
regards to the type of wood required,
how the fire is built and the attention
the fire requires. Throw some paper
and kindling in, load it up with any
kind of dry firewood and it will burn,
producing a nice fire and excellent
heat.
However, a little extra attention paid
to fire building techniques will
maximize both the combustion
efficiency and the heating efficiency
of the fireplace.
Some softwoods have a large
volume but little mass. With these
woods, you may have to load half of
the charge, burn it for 20 minutes
until there is room in the firebox and
then load the rest of the charge. You
should be able to fit at least 45 lbs
(20kg) of hardwood into the firebox
at one time, if required.
The fire will burn rapidly for 1 to 2
hours. You should do nothing to
slow the fire down. You can open
the doors near the end of the fire and
ensure that unburned coals are
heaped together near the centre of
the fire grate and then close the
firedoors again.
Once the fire has completely burned
out, the chimney damper and air
supply should be closed.
The heater can be fired again in
about 6 hours if extra heating is
required. There should never be a
need to have a fire burning while you
are sleeping.
For optimum combustion efficiency
(meaning the hottest and cleanest
burn), a "top-down burn" is
recommended.
THE TOP DOWN BURN
The "top-down burning" method of
starting a fire has been used by
knowledgeable masonry heater
owners in Europe for hundreds of
years.
Although it takes more effort and the
technique may require practice and
patience to master, it results in a
cleaner initial fire and reduced air
pollution. The reason for this is that
in a normal fire, the larger pieces are
placed on the top. As they get
heated quickly by the kindling fire
below, gases are released, which
escape unburned as smoke.
With the "top-down burn" method
the larger pieces are placed on the
bottom. Here they heat up more
slowly, so that when their gases start
to escape, they are burned in the hot
kindling fire above.
1. Open the chimney damper (if
equipped) and the combustion air
supply. (If equipped with a
"Hoyme" damper, activate the
switch to open the damper.)
2. Place 3" to 4" (75mm to 100mm)
diameter firewood in the firebox,
laid in alternating rows, allowing
about 1/2" to 1" (12.5mm to
25mm) space between them.
3. Add 3 sheets of tightly twisted
newspaper (or cedar shavings)
and then 8 to 10 sticks of dry
To build a top-down burning fire:

Section III - Normal Operation
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Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
softwood kindling (no larger than
1" (25mm) diameter).
4. Place 3 or 4 more sheets of
tightly twisted newspaper ontop
of the kindling.
5. Light the newspaper in 2 or 3
places and close the firedoors.
The kindling should ignite in afew
minutes and the fire should start
burning from the top down. (If
there is any doubt about the
presence of a good draft, first test
the draft with a match, as
described in Section IV)
Loading and lighting the woodupside
down is all there is to a top-down
burn. Your Temp-Cast already
burns with very low emissions, and
up to 90% of these occur at start-up.
Using the top-down burning
technique will reduce these low
emissions even further.
ADJUSTING HEAT OUTPUT
Determining the amount of heat
required will often be a trial and error
exercise, which obviously will vary
according to the weather.
Experience will dictate how much
heat and therefore how much wood
will be needed on any particular day.
It is the weight of wood which
determines the heat output, not
the rate at which the wood is
burned. You should do nothing to
slow the rate of burn, for doing so
decreases both the combustion
efficiency and heating performance.
When milder weather is expected,
less wood will be required, but it
should be burned at the normal
combustion rate. One burn every
second day may suffice in mild
weather. In colder weather, up to
two fires a day may be needed. In
this case, the most even heating is
obtained by spacing the fires 8 to 12
hours apart.
Heat output can be maximized by
closing all dampers as soon as
possible after firing, so that as little
as possible of the heat produced can
escape up the chimney. This can be
accomplished best by burning the
wood very quickly and by burning
similar-sized pieces of wood, which
will be finished at about the same
time. (If one particularly large or
hard piece of wood remains burning,
the dampers will have to stay open
and some efficiency will be lost.)
OVERFIRING
The Temp-Cast fireplace, as with all
heating systems, is limited in the
amount of heat that it can put out,
expressed in total weight of the
wood.
Using too much wood or firing more
often than every 6 hours is
considered overfiring the fireplace.
The extra heat produced will no
longer be gentle radiant heat, and
much of the heat will be lost as
increased chimney temperatures. In
addition, repeated overfiring can
damage the metal and glass parts,
especially the fire grate. Damage
caused by repeated overfiring is not
covered by the warranty.
OPERATING THE BAKE OVEN
If your Temp-Cast is equipped with a
bake oven option, baking can be
started as soon as the fire is
completely out.
For this reason, we do not
recommend burning more than 50
lbs of wood in any 6 hour period,
nor more than 100 lbs per day.

Section III - Normal Operation
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Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
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Open the bake oven door and brush
any remaining fly ash down through
the slot in the floor.
Place the food on an oven-proof tray
or in an oven-proof container with a
lid and close the door. (Clay pots
are ideal for this type of cooking.)
Because the bake oven
temperatures will slowly drop over
several hours, it is usually wise to
bake those foods, such as pizza,
which require higher temperatures
first, and other foods afterwards.
Most cooks will learn by
experimenting and keeping a close
eye on the food.
An optional bake oven thermometer
can be installed on the front wall of
the bake oven, to monitor the
internal temperature of the bake
oven walls.
If a higher bake oven temperature is
needed, a small fire of kindling-sized
pieces can first be burned in the
bake oven itself.
OPEN FIREPLACE MODE
We do not recommend that you
regularly operate your Temp-Cast
heater like a normal fireplace, with
the door(s) open during burning. In
this "open fireplace" mode, the
combustion rate is slowed
considerably, over-all efficiency
drops, and unnecessary air pollution
results. (In addition, the potential
exists for sparks and burning wood
to escape from the firebox if no
screen is used.)
In "air-tight" construction, such as in
Canadian R2000 homes, burning
with the door(s) open will upset the
air equilibrium of the home,decrease
efficiency and likely result in smoke
spillage.
BURNING SAFELY
When the planning & installation
instructions are carefully followed,
the surface of the masonry facade
will be no closer than 4" ( 100mm) to
combustibles on all sides, 10"
(250mm) overhead, and 2" (50mm)
on all sides of the chimney. Do not
place anything within this area.
Combustible materials should also
be kept 48" (1.2m) from the front of
the fireplace, directly in front of the
firebox doors.
Like all combustion appliances,
operation of a Temp-Cast fireplace
requires a certain amount of respect
and attention. It should only be
operated by responsible adults who
are familiar with the correct operating
techniques and proper use of the air
intake and chimney damper.
The heat storage ability of the
heater, which sets it apart from other
wood burning devices, makes all-
night burning unnecessary. A little
planning will ensure that if an
evening fire is needed, it is started
early enough to ensure that the fire
is out and the fireplace controls
closed before retiring for the night.
Installation of a smoke alarm is a
wise, inexpensive safety strategy for
any home. In addition, we also
recommend installing a carbon
monoxide alarm, particularly if the
chimney is equipped with a full-
closure damper.
In the interest of safety, if the home
is sold, this manual should be given
to the new owners. (If the manual is
misplaced, please have themcontact
the factory for a replacement.)

Section IV –Draft & Negative Pressure
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Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
SECTION IV - DRAFT & NEGATIVE PRESSURE
DRAFT BASICS
Chimney draft, in simple terms, is an
invisible force (air pressure), that we
trust will cause smoke and gases to
rise up the chimney and out of the
house.
A strong draft is dependent upon a
temperature difference between the
air inside, at the bottom of the
chimney and the air outside, at the
top of the chimney. If the air is
warmer inside than outside, this
temperature difference will create a
positive pressure in the chimney, or
"chimney draft." The greater the
temperature difference, the stronger
the draft. If no other factors work
against it, then this positive pressure
ensures that smoke rises up and out
of the house.
The principle seems very simple,
which is why homeowners are
usually quite confused and
distressed when their fireplace or
woodstove smokes or "back-puffs".
However, several factors can defeat
this potential positive draft, alone or
in combination with others. When
draft is defeated or overcome,
smoke and invisible combustion
gases may spill back into thehouse.
Recently, this "combustion spillage"
has been studied and found to be
quite common, affecting almost all
homes to varying degrees. It also
affects all combustion appliances -
fireplaces, woodstoves, gas and oil
furnaces, gas fireplaces, and gas
water heaters.
Persistent spillage is a serious
problem, since all combustion gases
from all fuel sources are potentially
harmful or fatal. Temp-Cast
fireplaces are a little less hazardous
in this regard, due to the fact that
they need not be burned at night,
(when spillage would goundetected),
and are only burned a few hours a
day, unlike most other types of
heaters.
THE STACK EFFECT
One of the most common
phenomena affecting draft is known
as "the stack effect."
The "stack effect" occurs most often
in a 2 or 3 story home, especially in
which there are open or leaky
windows or other small openings in
the upper floors.
A 2 or 3 story home is relatively tall
and insulated, forming a column or
"stack" of warm air running from the
basement up to the upper floors.
Warm air rising in the "stack" sets up
a positive pressure situation in the
upper parts of the home, where air
is flowing out, through leaks in the
upper windows, attic hatch, around
light fixtures, etc.
This sets up a negative pressure
situation in the basement, causing
fresh air to be drawn in, through
small leaks around doors, windows,
at the sill plate, and possibly, down
the basement chimney.
Somewhere between the basement
and first floor, the pressure situation
is balanced, which is known as the
"neutral pressure plane".
If a combustion appliance, such as a
fireplace or furnace, is located below
the neutral pressure plane, (i.e. in
the basement), then there is a very
good chance that the chimney draft
will be poor at best, as the stack

Section IV –Draft & Negative Pressure
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Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
effect tries to draw air down the
chimney. In a worst case situation,
air and smoke (or gas) will be drawn
down the chimney, spill out of the
appliance and try to rise up through
the middle of the home. In effect,
the house has become a better
chimney than the one built for the
basement fireplace or furnace. This
situation is worsened if the chimney
in question is located on the outside
of the home, outside of the warm
envelope, as is the case with many
basement fireplaces. The chimney
system now not only has to
overcome this "stack effect", it also is
faced with an impassable 30 ft (9m)
plug of cold air. (In our Temp-Cast
Planning Guide, we strongly
recommend against the combination
of outside chimneys and basement
installations for these reasons.)
OTHER FACTORS AFFECTING
DRAFT
There are other factors besides the
"stack effect" which can cause poor
draft and smoke spillage. Some of
these are:
•blocked or partiallyblocked
chimney or base manifold
•insufficient chimney height
•chimney with too many offsets
•chimney cross-sectional area too
small
•poorly aligned chimneyliners
causing partial obstructions
•lack of chimney cap (or roof-top
damper) to keep out wind &rain
•chimney built outside of the warm
envelope of the home
•locating the fireplace in the
basement, where the "stack
effect" is greatest
•operating a poorly balanced
mechanical ventilator
•operating too many or too
powerful exhaust fans which
compete with the fireplace for
combustion air. (Thishappens
most often in very tight houses,
when a strong fan can actually
de-pressurize the home, and
draw fresh air down the chimney.
"Down-draft" range fans are the
most common culprits.)
•strong winds against poorly
sealed windows & doors
(increasing the stack effect)
•open or leaky windows upstairs in
a 2 story home (increasing stack
effect)
•mild weather, when the
temperature difference between
air in the chimney and outsideair
is very little.
CHECKING FOR DRAFT
Smoke spillage caused by poor draft
is most common during the start-up
phase of a fire, and the "tail-out"
phase, at the end of the fire.
Spillage is not likely to occur when a
strong fire and good draft have been
established.
Since poor draft and negative
pressure are difficult to detect before
lighting the fire, a simple pre-fire
routine will quickly tell you if a draft
problem exists.
Load your firebox with the
appropriate amount of wood, but do
not light it yet. Open the chimney
damper and fresh air supply. Close
the firebox doors over, but do not
latch the door, so that a slight space
of about 1/4" (6.5mm) is left between
door gasket and door frame. Light a
match and hold it near this gap. .
If the flame is drawn strongly into
the firebox, you can be confident that
a strong draft is present. You can
proceed to light the fire and close the
door(s).
If the flame of the match is blown
towards you, away from the firebox,
or is blown out, then you probably

Section IV –Draft & Negative Pressure
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Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
have a down draft or negative
pressure. A flame which doesn't
seem to be directed away from or
towards the firebox may indicate a
marginal draft or a partially
obstructed chimney flue.
Do not light the fire in these
cases.
Instead, do the following:
1. Ensure that the fresh air supply
and the chimney damper areopen.
2. Put a mirror in the chimney
cleanout and check that the chimney
is clear all the way to the top.
(Replace the clean-out door and
ensure that all clean-out doors are
tightly fitted or sealed.)
3. Check the previous list of possible
factors (on pg. 9) to see if there are
one or more causes which you can
quickly identify and correct.
4. Turn off exhaust fans in the home,
starting with the most powerful,
especially the down-draft cooking
range fan. These include furnace
fans, bathroom fans, workroom
exhaust fans, etc.
5. Remember also that an open
fireplace is a powerful exhaust
appliance. If another fireplace in the
house has a roaring fire, it may be
causing a negative pressure in other
areas of the home, especially on
lower floors. Wait for this fireplace to
burn down.
6. Close windows and doors on
floors above the Temp-Castfireplace
and re-test the draft.
Although tedious, it makes the most
sense to try these steps one at a
time, re-testing the draft with the
lighted match after each one. If your
installation has several "problem"
factors listed at the beginning of this
section, then you may have to
patiently work through the list of
potential culprits to find the cause or
combination of causes that affects
your system.
If these measures do not create a
positive draft, an emergency
technique may be used.
Open the clean-out door and place a
small heat source in the base of the
chimney. A paint stripping gun, or
small butane torch works well for
this. (Some owners have
successfully burned one or two
tightly twisted sheets of newspaper
in the cleanout to "prime" the draft.
Care must be taken not to burn too
much paper at one time so that the
chimney is not subjected to "thermal
shock", which can damage the
chimney liners. Also, a strong down
draft could blow the burning paper
back into the room.)
After warming the chimney for
several minutes, remove the heat
source, tightly close the clean-out
door and test the draft at the fire
doors again.
If none of these measures produce a
sufficient draft, we suggest that you
consult a chimney sweep technician
who has been specially trained to
identify and correct draft problems.
REPLACEMENT AIR
If your system continually suffers
draft and smoke spillage problems, it
may benefit from a replacement air
device. Attached to your forced-air
ductwork, they draw fresh air, only
as required, from the outside, mix
the fresh air with hot air from the
furnace and distribute it through the
duct system. They are sized to the
air requirements of the home, work
whether the furnace is running or
not, and can prevent draft problems
caused by the stack effect and
negative pressure.

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Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
SECTION V - COMBUSTION EFFICIENCY
WHAT IS IT?
Combustion efficiency measures
how well an appliance burns the fuel
it is given. If the air supply is not
obstructed or controlled in any way,
and dry wood is used, your Temp-
Cast masonry heater will achieve
high combustion efficiency, well over
90 %. Good combustion efficiency
reduces the amount of pollution
created by burning wood and
extracts the maximum amount of
heat from the gases formed during
burning.
GOOD BURNING TECHNIQUES
Although your Temp-Cast fireplace
will burn well without much thought
on your part, there are a few
techniques you can employ to
maximize combustion efficiency.
•Ensure that your wood supply is
dry, with 20% moisture content or
less.
•For starting the fire, use cedar
shavings or a little newspaper,
and dry softwood kindling only
•Split all logs over 5" in diameter.
•Use firewood that is
approximately the same size for
any one fire. In this way, the
entire fire will burn out at the
same time and dampers can be
closed more quickly, without
having to wait for that one large
chunk.
•Stack wood in alternating layers,
front to back and across the
firebox. (Long pieces can also be
leaned against the back wall of
the firebox.)
•Use the "top-down" burn
technique described in SectionIII
to create the absolute minimum
emissions during start-up.
THE RIGHT FUEL
Your Temp-Cast fireplace will
perform equally well with all kinds of
wood. Softwood, scrap lumber,
branches, etc., are all equal to the
best hardwoods in terms of heat
value by weight and are cheaper to
obtain. However, no matter what
type of wood you burn, the following
fuel guidelines are essential to good
combustion and safe burning.
•Burn only wood or
commercially prepared wood
fuel products.
•Split all cordwood (regardless
of size) and all pieces thicker
than 5" in diameter.
•Ensure that wood is dried to
20% moisture or less.
•Do not burn chemically treated,
stained or painted wood.
•Do not use any chemical or
combustible liquids to start the
fire.
•Do not attempt to burn coal in
the fireplace.
•Do not burn plastics or
garbage.

Section V - Combustion Efficiency
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Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
WOOD MOISTURE CONTENT
When wood is freshly cut, it contains
roughly 50% moisture. If properly
air dried for several months, it will
reach 20 %.
Properly dried wood will have
darkened end grain, with deep splits
in the ends that radiate all the way to
the outsides of the log. In addition,
when you sharply bang two pieces of
properly dried wood together, they
will "ring" with a slightly hollow
sound. Wet wood will produce a dull
"thunk" when banged together.
However, the only certain method for
determining moisture content is to
use a moisture meter, available
through gardening shops.
Freshly-cut wood should be split and
stacked in alternate layers, so that
air can circulate easily around every
piece. The wood should have a roof
over it, overhanging the stack by at
least 2 feet all around. The sides
should be left open to the air, except
that the side exposed to the
prevailing winds can have a roll-up
plastic sheet in case of rain. (A well
ventilated open wood shed is a good
choice.)
WOOD STORAGE
Many people are under the mistaken
impression that if wood is split and
stored for 1 year or more, it will
automatically be dry enough to burn
properly.
We do not recommend indoor wood
storage, since the dormant insects
living in it may decide to make your
home part of their diet. In addition, if
the wood contains excess moisture,
increased indoor humidity will result.
(A good compromise is a large
indoor wood box which can hold
several days wood supply, andwhich
allows you to inspect for unwanted
guests on a regular basis.)
Wood that is incorrectly stored
will never dry enough to burn
properly, no matter when it was
cut.
For proper combustion and
performance, wood must be dried
to 20% moisture or less.
Firewood should not be stored
under a plastic sheet, which will
effectively trap all moisture and
prevent the wood from ever drying
properly.

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Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
SECTION VI - CHIMNEY DAMPERS
CHIMNEY DAMPER TYPES
Three types of chimney dampers are
commonly installed with Temp-Cast
fireplaces - roof-top dampers, sliding
dampers, and occasionally,base-exit
dampers.
Roof-top dampers are installed on
the very top of the chimney and
controlled by a stainless steel cable.
They are sold as "full-closure"
dampers, since they effectively seal
the chimney in the closed position.
However, they can be installed with
extra "stops" in the cable to control
how much the damper closes.
Sliding dampers are installed in a
masonry chimney, between two flue
tiles and are placed inside the living
area at a height for comfortable
access. The standard sliding
dampers available from Temp-Cast
have a small open area when fully
shut. (A rain cap should be used
with all sliding dampers.)
Custom-built round base-exit
dampers are usually installed in the
connection between fireplace and
chimney, in round chimney systems.
Both Sliding dampers & base-exit
dampers require periodic lubricating
with a little vegetable oil, particularly
during the summer.
USING THE CHIMNEY DAMPER
The chimney damper is designed to
be fully opened when the fire is
burning, or when there are burning
coals in the firebox. When the fire is
fully out, the chimney damper canbe
completely closed, helping to retain
extra heat in the fireplace and
chimney mass.
FULL CLOSURE DAMPERS
Experienced masonry heater
operators may opt for a full-closure
damper, which will effectively seal
the chimney from escaping heat.
Operating a full closure damper
requires a certain amount of skill in
determining when it can be safely
closed.
Masonry heater owners with several
generations of experience are ableto
tell by the lack of blue flame (carbon
monoxide combustion) and the
particular smell of the firebox gases,
exactly when it is safe to fully close
their chimney damper. In doing so,
they accept responsibility for careful
operation of the damper and their
own safety. If a full closure damper
is used, the operator must be
absolutely certain that all combustion
gases have been burned off before
closing the damper.
We recommend that the damper
not be closed until the fire is
completely out, and that a Carbon
Monoxide Alarm be installed in
the same room as the heater.
CLOSING A "FULL-CLOSURE"
DAMPER TOO SOON MAY RESULT
IN HARMFUL, POTENTIALLY
FATAL, COMBUSTION GASES
BEING FORCED INTO THE HOME.

13
Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
SECTION VII - CLEANING & MAINTENANCE
CHIMNEY SYSTEM
We recommend that the chimney
system be inspected once a month
during the first 3 months of full-time
operation. You should have little or
no creosote in the chimney system if
the fireplace is burned as instructed.
(Creosote is identifiable as a shiny
black, tar-like substance. Do not
confuse it with soot, which is soft and
dusty and easily removed.) If
creosote is found in the chimney,
review Section III for proper burning
techniques and Section V regarding
combustion efficiency.
Following this initial 3 month period,
have the chimney system inspected
at least once a year.
HEAT EXCHANGE CHANNELS
The soot cleanout doors should be
opened and the base of the heat
exchange channels inspected at
least once a year. (A small
adjustable mechanics mirror,
available from automotive supply
stores, is ideal for this inspection.)
Fly ash may accumulate in the
bottom of the channels, as well as
anything that is brushed down from
the chimney and should be removed
when necessary. In addition, any
small animals or birds which find
their way down your chimney may
end up in the bottom of the heat
exchange channels. (There is also a
“knock-out” plug at the rear of the
firebox ash pit, under the fire grate to
access the base manifold area if
access is limited from one side of the
heater.)
FIREBOX CARE
The refractory material in the firebox
is designed to withstand very high
temperatures. However, when all
refractory materials are heated, they
soften somewhat. If large pieces of
wood are carelessly thrown against
these hot walls, minor damage can
result. Placing the firewood on the
fire, (rather than throwing it in), will
prevent unsightly gouges and
excessive wear of the firebox walls
CARE OF THE GLASS
The glass can be cleaned easily with
a damp cloth dipped in the firebox
ashes, or by wiping the heated glass
with fresh newspaper.
If the glass becomes badly stained,
"tri-sodium phosphate", (available
from pharmacies), mixed with water,
is an effective cleaner. Do not use
abrasive materials or cleaners.
If the glass becomes cracked, badly
scratched or cloudy, it must be
replaced. (The life of the glass can
be prolonged if care is taken to
minimize burning wood contacting
the glass or falling against it.)
DOOR GASKETS
Fireplace doors are equipped with a
fiberglass rope gasket, which will
require periodic replacement. This
rope and the high-temperature
cement to install can be obtained
from hardware stores and fireplace
shops.

Section VII - Cleaning & Maintenance
14
Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
CARE OF METAL PARTS
Cast-iron doors should need very
little care, other than occasional
replacement of door gaskets. If
dampness in the structure is a
concern, the castings can be wiped
down with vegetable oil to prevent
corrosion if the heater is not used for
long periods.
Gold-plated doors should be cleaned
with a damp cloth only. (Do not use
abrasive materials or cleaners.)
If the chimney is equipped with a
cast-iron sliding dampers, it should
be occasionally wiped withvegetable
oil to prevent corrosion. In addition,
sliding dampers should be operated
and lubricated regularly when not
being used, or removed and stored
in a dry area.
Cast-iron firebox grates are a wear
item and will require occasional
replacement.
ASH REMOVAL
In installations with an ash drop to
the basement, removal of ashes is
simply a case of opening the
cleanout access and removing
accumulated ashes.
Without an ash drop, ashes will be
removed from the firebox or from the
ash pit under the fire-grate,
depending on the model of fireplace.
In all cases, ashes should be put into
a metal container, placed on a non-
combustible surface. The ashes
should be taken immediately
outdoors and disposed of. (Some
gardeners value ashes as an
excellent source of nitrogen.)
Remember that ashes can contain
live embers long after the fire is
out. Place the container on a non-
combustible surface and dispose
of ashes accordingly.
DOOR GASKET REPLACMENT
To replace the door gasket, remove
the old gasket and clean the gasket
slot carefully, using a wire brush if
necessary, to remove all the old
adhesive & gasket residue.
Brush the new gasket adhesive into
the slot. Starting at the bottom
corner farthest away from the door
handle, install the new gasket,
pressing it firmly into the slot.
Close and latch the door, to keep the
gasket in place until the adhesive
dries.

Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
15
SECTION VIII: TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM
POSSIBLE CAUSES
IMMEDIATE REMEDIES
PERMANENT
REMEDIES
Match blows out
when testing draft.
(Down draft)
•cold exterior chimney
•negative house pressure
•"stack" effect
•windy conditions
•pre-heat the chimney (pg.
10)
•turn off all exhaust fans &
other fireplaces
•close windows & doors on
upper floors
•use "roof-top"
damper to retain
heat in chimney
•install replacement
air device
•seal air leaks on
upper floors
•review Section IV
Lights okay, but
goes out before
kindling fire gets
started. (Or excess
smoke spillage
after lighting.)
•kindling or firewood not
dry
•chimney damper closed
•obstruction in chimney or
in connection
•fresh air intake not open
•inside/outside temperatures
are almost the same
•use dry kindling and cedar
shavings (or twisted
newspaper)
•check that chimney damper
is open
•check that air is supply
open
•check that chimney is clear
•review Section IV,
V & VII
Fire lights okay,
but burns poorly,
with excess smoke
and not enough
heat.
•damp wood
•wood size too large
•insufficient air
•wet refractory
•stone-cold fireplace
•check air intake
•use smaller pieces of wood
(max. 5" diameter)
•use moisture meter
•ensure fireplace has
been cured properly
(Section II)
•review Section V
Fire lights & burns
strongly, but not
enough heat is
being produced.
•wood not fully dried
•no chimney damper
•air intake not closed after
fire
•not enough wood burned
•fireplace not centrally
located
•poor insulation
•area to be heated too large
•fireplace incorrectly
installed
•burn more wood
•ensure wood is dry, 20% or
less
•close chimney damper after
fire
•close air supply after fire
•split wood into smaller
pieces - max. 5" (120mm)
diameter
•keep wood pieces approx.
same size so they burn at
approx. same rate
•install roof top
damper
•review storage &
moisture % of wood
supply (pg. 12)
•review Planning
Guide & Installation
Manual re: correct
facade materials &
installation
•use additional heat
sources
•upgrade insulation
Fire lights & burns
well, but smoke
spills when door(s)
opened.
•chimney, base manifold or
or heat exchange channels
partially obstructed
•negative pressure
(especially in "air-tight"
construction)
•stack effect
•chimney size too small 2
(min. 50 sq.” or 320 cm )
•open a window near
fireplace before opening
the door(s)
•inspect chimney for too
many offsets or
obstructions
•close windows on upper
floors
•seal air leaks on
upper floors
•install replacement
air unit (pg. 10)
•ensure chimney is
correct size (review
Installation Manual)
•review Section IV &
Section VII

Temp-Cast Owner's Manual
September 2012
16
SECTION IX: WARRANTY
TEMP-CAST LLC WARRANTY
REGISTRATION CARD
NAME:
STREET ADDRESS:
CITY:
STATE/PROV:
ZIP/POSTAL:
EMAIL:
HOME TEL:
BUS TEL:
CELL#:
PURCHASE DATE:
INSTALL DATE:
DEALER:
INSTALLER:
INSTALLER CITY:
INSTALLER PHONE:
OPTIONS INSTALLED:
PRIMARY PURPOSE?
Main HeatSource□
Zone/Supplementary Heat Only □
Decorative Fireplace □
Other□
FAÇADE MATERIAL:
FAÇADE THICKNESS:
HOUSE TYPE:
Frame □
Log □
Timer Frame□
Post &Beam□
Straw Bale□
Earth/Adobe □
Concrete □
Other □
HOUSE STYLE:
Bungalow □
2Storey□
3Storey□
Split Level□
Other □
TOTAL HOUSE SIZE:
AREA HEATED BY TEMPCAST:
COMMENTS: (use reverse also)
FIVE Years from date of purchase
One Year from date of purchase
WARRANTY PERIOD
•Refractory Parts:
•Metal Parts:
Temp-Cast LLC warrants, subject to the conditions and exceptions noted below, that should this
product become defective due to materials or workmanship within the specified warranty period,
Temp-Cast LLC will repair or replace the defective part, at its option.
EXCEPTIONS
The following are not covered by this warranty:
1. Stress cracks in the refractory caused by normal thermal expansion.
2. Defects or cracks of any kind in the masonry facade.
3. Any other materials or labour, including removal and replacement of masonry facades.
4. Damage caused by incorrect installation, or by failing to follow Temp-Cast installation instructions.
5. Damage caused by incorrect operation or abuse, or by failing to follow Temp-Cast curing and operating
instructions.
CONDITIONS
1. Registration Card must be completed and mailed within 30 days of installation to Temp-Cast LLC, 8820
Grey Cloud Island Dr. S, St. Paul Park, MN 55071.
2. At least 4 Installation Photos (or video) must be included with the Registration Card, showing the
completed core, the core with partial facade erected, the completed installation and one showing a normal
fire, following the curing process - this photo can be sent separately at a later date.
3. All defective parts must be properly crated and shipped pre-paid to the Factory.
4. Proof of Purchase must be included, showing the date of retail purchase.
5. Temp-Cast must be contacted for approval prior to any part being returned for warranty claim.