Temp-Cast 2000 User manual

Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual February 2010
INSTALLATION MANUAL
READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL
INCLUDING THE WARRANTY SECTION
BEFORE STARTING THE INSTALLATION
WARNING!!
TO ENSURE THE SAFE AND
EFFICIENT OPERATION OF THIS
HEATER, SECTION 5 MUST BE
REVIEWED PRIOR TO STARTING
THE INSTALLATION

Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual February 2010
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION1 – INTRODUCTION PAGE #
General Information 3
Site Preparation 3
Clearances 3
The Façade 4
Delivery & Handling 4
Tools 4
Additional Materials 4
Combustion Air Supply 5
SECTION 2 – CHIMNEYS & DAMPERS
General Requirements 6
Flue Connections 6
Masonry Chimneys 6
Factory-built Chimneys 7
Base-Exit Dampers 8
Installing the Roof-top Chimney Damper 9
SECTION 3 - STEP-BY STEP ASSEMBLY
Assembly Notes 10
Step-by-Step Installation 11
SECTION 4 - DOOR FRAMES & FACADE
The Door Frame Flange 37
Installing Arched Fire-Box Doors 38
Air Supply Doors 42
Clean-out (Soot) Doors 42
Installing "See-Through" Doors 43
Installing Square Fire-Box Doors 44
Installing Bake Oven Doors 46
The Trim Plate Option 47
Installing the Facade 48
The Masonry Cap 49
SECTION 5 - AVOIDING INSTALLATION ERRORS 50
SECTION 6 – CERAMIC FIBRE CUTTING PLAN 51
SECTION 7 –WARRANTY 53

Section 1 - Introduction
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SECTION 1: INTRODUCTION
GENERAL INFORMATION
The Temp-Cast 2000 is a modular "site-built"
fireplace kit. The assembled modules form the
"core" of the fireplace, including internal flue
passages. The Standard Fireplace package also
contains a cast iron fire grate, two soot cleanout
doors, refractory joint-sealing mortar, corrugated
cardboard spacers, gasket material, and assorted
fasteners.
READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY
BEFORE BEGINNING THE INSTALLATION.
FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS
MAY CREATE A FIRE HAZARD, HAMPER THE
PERFORMANCE OF THE FIREPLACE AND
VOID THE PRODUCT WARRANTY.
IMPORTANT: Review Section 5,
"Avoiding Installation Errors" before
beginning the installation!
SITE PREPARATION
The following instructions detail the assembly of the
Temp-Cast 2000 Fireplace, on a properly prepared
and supported concrete pad. Support requirements
are described in the Temp-Cast Planning Guide, and
related Plan Drawings.If you require assistance
with the support details for the fireplace or other
preparatory work, please contact your dealer or the
factory. If you are unsure regarding any aspect of the
installation of this product, please contact:
Temp-Cast Enviroheat Ltd, 3409 Yonge St,
Bedford Park Postal Outlet, Box 94059
Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M4N 3R1.
Tel: [phone] Fax: [phone]
Toll-free 1-800-561-8594
Email: [email protected]
CLEARANCES
A minimum clearance of 4" (100mm) from the back
and sides of the completed fireplace (i.e. from the
masonry facing) to combustible materials is required.
The clearance required from the top of the heater is
10" (250mm).
48” (1200mm) clearance is required in front of the
door & a non-combustible hearth of 16” (400mm)
deep is required, extending 8” either side of the
door.( approx. 38” [1m] wide). Also, a clearance of
2" (50mm) is required between the chimney and any
combustible construction. (See Fig 1 & 1-1 below.)

Section 1 - Introduction
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If necessary, a metal or masonry convection
shield may be placed between your fireplace
facade and the combustible structure, reducing
clearances by up to 67%. Contact your dealer,
local building inspector or the factory for details.
(In new construction, a non-combustible solid
masonry wall or metal stud and "cement-board"
wall will eliminate concern with clearances.)
FAILURE TO MAINTAIN THE MINIMUM
CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLES MAY
CREATE A FIRE HAZARD.
THE FACADE
Once the core is assembled, it must be faced with
additional suitable heat-storing masonry material,
usually installed by a professional mason. (See also
Section 4.) Suitable facade materials include brick,
rock, fieldstone, or soapstone – concrete block
facings are not recommended. (Hollow units must be
filled. If using solid bricks, they should not be
perfectly flat on both sides - a depression is needed
to ensure that bricks do not move during thermal
expansion.) THE FACADE MUST BE BETWEEN
4" (100mm) & 6” (150mm) OF SOLID MASONRY,
STONE OR ROCK. (Substantially thinner facings
may not comply with building codes, due to higher
surface temperatures, requiring greater clearances to
combustibles. Thicker facings will make the heater
slower to respond & more difficult to regulate.)
DELIVERY & HANDLING
The fireplace kit weighs 2800 lbs and is delivered on
a wood pallet, covered with plastic. If unloaded by
forklift, it should be placed on a level and even
surface, so that parts will not fall when the strapping
is cut. Unpacking should be done by at least 2
persons, following the unpacking instructions.
As soon as possible after delivery, the fireplace
should be unpacked and dry assembled, to become
familiar with all the parts, to ensure the delivery is
complete and to check for damage. Visible damage
to the pallet or the contents must be reported
immediately to the delivery person and noted on
the shipping bill before accepting delivery.
Hidden damage or missing parts must be reported
to Temp-Cast and to the shipping company within
24 hours.
The pieces must be handled with reasonable care to
avoid damage, although minor chips to corners and
edges are acceptable and do not affect installation or
performance. The modules should be stored indoors,
in a dry area. When possible, in cold weather, the
modules should be left in a heated area for a few days
prior to beginning the installation.
TOOLS
The following tools are required to simplify the
assembly process:
48" (1.2m) and 12” levels
powered cutting tool - options include:
1. 4” grinder with diamond blade
2. circular saw with diamond blade
3. masonry “water” saw or gas concrete saw (less
accurate & convenient on smaller cuts)
1/2" (12.5mm) hammer drill & masonry bits
heavy rubber mallet
2" (50mm) margin or pointed trowel
2" packing tape (e.g. “Scotch” tape)
black magic marker
pencil
utility knife
bucket, water & sponge
measuring tape
20 ft (10m) tie-down or web-clamp, for temporary
support of side channels (Step 18).
ADDITIONAL MATERIALS:
all masonry facing & chimney materials
Portland cement (to level the base)
chimney cleanout for rear connections (see
Section 4)
optional air supply door & frame (for slab-on-grade
installations - refer to Fig 1B)
optional chimney damper
6” or 8” combustion air supply duct (e.g.
galvanized duct - see next section)

Section 1 - Introduction
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COMBUSTION AIR SUPPLY:
The Temp-Cast heater requires an unrestricted air
supply for proper combustion and maximum
performance. (This section refers to the standard
Temp-Cast “arched” door & air-frame installation.
The Temp-Cast “square” door installation is
described in a separate manual.)
Combustion air can be drawn from outside or inside
the house and delivered by way of a 15" x 2"
(380mm x 50mm) air intake formed in front of the
heater during construction of the concrete floor pad.
Air is then directed up behind the facing masonry,
and into the hollow door frame through slots on the
bottom. The air travels up inside the door frame and
feeds the fire from above, creating an "air-wash"
across the doors to keep the glass clean. (See Fig. 1a)
If the installation is designed to use inside air from
the same room as the heater, (such as in a basement
installation ), then an optional "air supply door" must
be purchased and installed under the loading doors.
This will allow combustion air to be drawn from the
room, travel up behind the facade and into the hollow
door frame. (Refer to Fig. 1b).
In a basement installation, outside air can still be
brought into the fireplace, if ceiling height permits.
In this case, a raised hearth can be constructed, and
6" (150mm) of fresh air can be fed into this structure.
(A "false" chimney can be used for this fresh air
supply.) The air is brought to the front of the heater
into a 15" x 2" (380mm x 50mm) masonry slot or
custom-fabricated "boot" and treated as a normal
outside air installation.
In a "See-Through" fireplace, 8” of combustion air
must be supplied and divided equally to both door
frames to provide an "air wash" for each door glass.
(See Fig. 16)
Fig 1a
Fig 1b

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SECTION 2: CHIMNEYS & DAMPERS
GENERAL REQUIREMENTS
Temp-Cast fireplaces require an approved
chimney system for safe and satisfactory
performance. Code-approved masonry and
factory-built chimney systems are both
acceptable.
In addition to building code requirements, every
chimney system should:
extend straight up from the base of the
fireplace
be at least 18 ft (5.5m) in height
have an access at the base, with a tight-
fitting metal door, for chimney cleaning
have a cross-sectional area of at least 50 sq.
inches (320 sq cm)
NOT BE CONNECTED TO ANOTHER
APPLIANCE OR TO ANY AIR DUCTS
FLUE CONNECTIONS
The chimney connection is made at the bottom
of the fireplace, in the first course. The
connection can be made on either side of the
fireplace or through the back wall, into the cross
manifold. (Refer to Fig. # 2). The flue
connection can be up to 5 ft. long, creating
heated benches & allowing additional flexibility
in chimney locations.
For a side connection, the side channel (Part #
30 or 31) is cut to receive the connector. (see
step 18.) Make this cut carefully so that a
smooth transition from the fireplace to the
chimney results, free of obstructions to the flow
of the escaping smoke. Use joint sealing mortar
to make it completely smoke tight. The
connector piece penetrates the fireplace side
channel about 1" (25mm), but care must be
taken to ensure that it does not protrude past the
inner edge of the side channel. (See Figs. # 3
and 4.)
If the connection is made at the back of the
fireplace, the cross manifold (Part #3) is cut to
receive the flue connector. This joint must
also be smoke-tight. (See also Section 3,
Step #3.)
MASONRY CHIMNEYS
Due to the thermal mass storage capability
of masonry chimneys, we recommend them
over factory-built chimneys, provided they
are completely inside the home & fitted with
a damper.
Masonry chimneys should have carefully
aligned flue liners, with joints that are
smoke-tight and joined with refractory
mortar. The inside surface of the liner
should be smooth, with all excess mortar
removed. Refractory, clay and UL/ULC
listed stainless steel are all acceptable liners.
An access for a chimney cleanout can be cut
in the first vertical flue tile. (See Fig #10)

Section 2 – Chimneys & Dampers
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual February 2010
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Fig 3
A 4” grinder with a diamond blade is ideal for
cutting accurate & neat holes in the refractory
concrete modules.
FACTORY-BUILT CHIMNEYS
We do not recommend exterior chimneys, (see
Sec. 4 of the Temp-Cast Planning Guide) but if a
chimney on the outside of the house is
unavoidable, then an insulated factory-built (e.g.
"HT" or 2100F.) chimney is the better choice.
When a factory-built chimney is started at the
floor level, there will not be sufficient space to
access the clean-out cap under it. In order to
provide a clean out access, one of the following
2 methods is suggested.
Create a masonry connection to the fireplace,
with 8" (200mm) round flue tile. Add vertical
sections of 8” round flue tile, with a clean-out
access built into the first vertical section. Wrap
the horizontal tile and the first vertical flue tile
with “ceramic wool” blanket & ensure they
cannot be dislodged. Continue with flue tile &
masonry to the point where the transition to
factor-built chimney is wanted – often the
masonry is extended to the first ceiling. If a
roof-top damper is to be installed, the cable
protector for the damper cable must be built into
the masonry chimney where it will be accessible
for daily use – we recommend at least 6 feet
from the floor. Install an anchor plate approved
for the factory-built chimney, on top of the last
masonry section - the factory-built chimney
continues from this point. (See Fig. 5.) If the
factory-built chimney will also be enclosed in
masonry, the layout of the first masonry courses
must take this into account. (Confirm this
connection method with your local building
official.) Fig 4

Section 2 – Chimneys & Dampers
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual February 2010
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BASE-EXIT DAMPER/TRANSITION
A Temp-Cast base-exit damper/transition is
another method to make a suitable connection
from the heater to a factory-built chimney, and
also incorporates a damper & cleanout access
that is not otherwise possible with factory-built
chimneys. (See Fig 6.)
If you use a damper of any kind, be
certain to read the cautions regarding
carbon monoxide, in the next section.
The following details the installation of the
Temp-Cast base-exit damper/transition.
1. At Step 18, position the base-exit
damper/transition, sitting on the
concrete slab. Mark where the damper
will be installed into the side channel
(Part #30 or 31) or rear manifold (Part
#3), and cut a 9½” x 9½” opening.
2. Cut the damper rod to length, if
required, to extend beyond the masonry
which will enclose the entire assembly.
3. Attach the handle to the rod with the nut
extender and nuts supplied. Check the
operation of the damper to become
familiar with its operation. (The handle
is usually shipped inside the damper.)
4. Attach a strip of ceramic wool to the
outside of the side channel around the
damper opening, with high-temperature
silicone. Lay a strip of ceramic wool on
the bottom edge of the opening and
insert the base-exit damper/transition.
Insert the damper into the opening and
slightly compress the ceramic wool – it
may be helpful to temporarily support
the damper box until masonry work has
been started around it.
5. Cover the damper rod so that it will not
be inadvertently cemented in position
during installation of the masonry facing
– flexible cardboard or ½” copper pipe
(not supplied) may be used for this.
6. With at least 3 metal screws, attach an
approved masonry adapter to the top of
the damper assembly & install the first
vertical section of factory-built chimney.
7. Enclose the entire damper assembly
with at least 4” of solid masonry,
leaving an access for the cleanout. (If
the factory-built chimney will also be
enclosed, the first masonry courses must
take this into account.)
Other methods of connecting factory-built
chimneys may also be acceptable. Consult the
chimney manufacturer, a certified installer or
your local building official.
Fig 6

Section 2 – Chimneys & Dampers
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual February 2010
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INSTALLING THE ROOF-TOP
CHIMNEY DAMPER
An optional “roof-top” chimney damper is
recommended to allow the chimney to be closed
off when the fire is out. This will let the
chimney mass hold additional heat and greatly
improve the overall heating efficiency of the
system. (Refer to the Temp-Cast Owner's
Manual for proper use of the chimney damper.)
The damper is cemented to the top of the
uppermost flue tile of the chimney, and is
controlled by a cable through the centre of the
chimney. (See Fig. 7) The cable is routed
through the side of the flue tile during
construction of the chimney and masonry facing.
(Note: Installation of the damper cable is greatly
simplified if the protective sleeve and steel
cable are installed in the desired area when the
chimney is being built. If this has not been done,
then a string will have to be fished through the
sleeve & secured to the steel cable.) Attach the
cable bracket to the outside of the chimney in a
convenient, unobtrusive location, but always out
of the reach of small children.
For 8” round chimneys, including factory-built
models, a Round-to-Square adapter and a 13” x
13” damper will be required.
NOTE: When a stainless steel (i.e. “factory-
built”) chimney is used, penetrating the steel
chimney is not permitted. Alternatives
include:
1. Installing a Temp-Cast Base-Exit Damper,
construct a short section of masonry
chimney, install an approved masonry
adapter part and continue with factory-built
chimney through the roof. (See Fig 6.)
2. Starting the installation with a Temp-Cast
Base-Exit Transition, with or without an
integral damper. For exposed chimneys, a
Temp-Cast Base-Exit Transition/Damper
must be used. If the chimney is to be
enclosed to the first ceiling or through to
the roof, you can use the same Temp-Cast
Base Exit Damper/Transition, or obtain an
adapter with a built-in damper, which can
be installed with the first section of
“factory-built” chimney. This permits a
more effective damper, much higher up in
the chimney system. In either case, the
whole chimney assembly and transition can
be enclosed in masonry.
CAUTION: Whenever a full-closure damper is
used, care should be taken to ensure that the fire
is completely out before the damper is shut.
Closing the damper prematurely could cause
combustion gases, especially carbon monoxide,
to be spilled into the home. Carbon monoxide
has the potential to be fatal. We therefore
strongly recommend installation of a carbon
monoxide alarm, available where smoke alarms
are purchased, whenever a damper is used with a
Temp-Cast masonry heater.

Section 3 - Step-By-Step Assembly
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual
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SECTION 3: STEP-BY-STEPASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY NOTES
1. Dry-assemble the heater upon
delivery, to check the condition of all
parts and to familiarize yourself with
the modules. (If all of the parts are not
numbered, you may find it helpful to do
so, using this manual, before taking
the unit apart again.)
2. Cutting of flue tiles and fireplace
modules should be done outdoors due
to the excessive dust created. WEAR
SUITABLE EAR, EYE AND LUNG
PROTECTION.
3. A 4” grinder with a diamond blade is
best for cutting holes in flue tiles and
fireplace modules. Or round holes can
be cut as six or eight-sided shapes
with a gas, water or circular saw or
drilled every inch (25mm) and then cut
with a reciprocating saw fitted with a
masonry blade. Rounding or beveling
the inside edges of the hole in the
module creates the least resistance to
the flow of smoke and gases,
maximizing draft and performance.
(See Fig. 8)
4. When using the ceramic-fibre gasket
material, it should only be slightly
compressed. Compressing it too
much will defeat its purpose as an
expansion gasket. (A small amount of
refractory mortar can be used to
cement the gasket in position.)
5. Refractory casting occasionally leaves
behind rough spots or small bumps on
the modules. If these rough spots
should occur in a joint between 2
modules, they may prevent a tight joint
and make installation of subsequent
parts more difficult. Remove any such
bumps with a rasp or scraping tool
before assembling.
6. Refractory mortar should be used
sparingly, applying a small (1/4” to
3/8”) bead between modules. The
finished joint should have a very thin
skin of refractory mortar, which is the
strongest. (In addition, the parts will
only fit properly if the thinnest possible
joint is created.) Apply a small amount
on the outside edges of the part, where
indicated by the shaded areas. Do not
use a full bed of mortar. Seat the
parts completely, using a rubber
mallet, so that a little mortar squeezes
out. After each course, scrape off and
save excess mortar for possible later
use. Periodically wipe the modules
inside and out with a damp sponge to
ensure that excess mortar has not
been left behind.
Fig. 8

Section 3 - Step-By-Step Assembly
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual
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STEP 1: "THERMOTECT" INSULATING BOARD
If an optional insulating board is to be installed, it is installed before starting the Levelling Pad.
Cut the board to size as indicated and place it in position. Check that it is square to the concrete
floor pad. Ensure that the air intake hole is located immediately in front of the board and centered.
(It is also advisable at this point to double check that there will be sufficient clearances to
combustible construction around the fireplace.)
If you have followed the Temp-Cast Planning Guide, the area around the 6" diameter Ash Drop
hole in the concrete pad will be sloped towards the hole for a few inches all around. Cut an
appropriately sized hole in the insulating board so that the sloped area around the hole is not
obstructed. Lay the board in position as illustrated.

Section 3 - Step-By-Step Assembly
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual
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STEP 2:
"Dry" assemble (i.e. without mortar) the two halves of the Leveling Pad (Part #1 & #2) on the
"Thermotect" board (optional), or on the concrete floor pad, so that the air intake slot is not
obstructed and is centered in front of the Leveling Pad. Ensure that the 6" (150mm) diameter ash
drop is located within the cut-out section of the base. CHECK THAT THE FLOOR IS
REASONABLY LEVEL BEFORE STARTING TO INSTALL THE LEVELLING PAD -
ADDITIONAL MORTAR MAY BE NEEDED TO LEVEL IT AS REQUIRED.
Lay the two halves of the Leveling Pad in a 1/2" (12mm) bed of common mortar, using refractory
mortar between them. Using the 48" level, tap the base into the mortar, ensuring that it is level.
Before the mortar has set, tap down along the centre-line of the leveling pad, so that the centre of
the pad is about 3/16” lower than the sides. (See illustration below.) This centre-line gap will
ensure that parts in the upper courses lean in slightly, simplifying installation.
Weights
#1 & 2 - 49 lbs
#1C & 2C - 59 lbs

Section 3 - Step-By-Step Assembly
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual
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STEP 3:
When the Leveling Pad can support weight, dry assemble the first course of modules, including
the grate, as in the accompanying drawings, to check for proper fit. This course must be centered
on the Leveling Pad, so that equal space is left on both sides for the heat exchange channels - mark
the correct placement with a pencil.
If the chimney is to be connected at the rear of the fireplace, mark the cross manifold (#3) to be
cut for the flue connection. Take this part outdoors and cut a hole for the flue connector being
used. For flue tile or HT chimney, cut the hole the same size as the inside dimensions of the flue
connector. The flue connector or HT adapter will then be mortared or attached to the outside of
the cross manifold - Part #3. (Holes for a side connection are discussed at Step 18.)
Once the layout of fireplace and chimney connection, all dimensions and locations of cleanout
doors have been confirmed, draw a line on the Leveling Pad to mark the outside edges of the base
course. Now remove the modules, (cut the flue hole in #3 if required) and re-assemble, using a
small amount of the refractory mortar provided on the bottom edges and between modules. Seat
the parts with the rubber mallet, then reach inside the cross manifold and wipe off all excess
mortar.
NOTE: once final assembly has been started, the entire core should be assembled in a continuous
operation, so that minor adjustments to previous courses can be made before the refractory mortar
has set. Place the fire-grate in position, which should fit loosely to allow for expansion. Cover it
to keep clean.
Weights
#3 - 61 lbs
#4& #5 - 82 lbs
#6 - 22 lbs

Section 3 - Step-By-Step Assembly
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual
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STEP 4:
Assemble the second course, parts #7, #8 & #9. A small bead (½”) of refractory mortar is laid on
the outside edges where the two parts meet. (The bead can be laid either on the part being laid on
or the previous part - whichever is easier.) Note that the parts are numbered in the order that they
should be placed. (For a Temp-Cast "See-Through" fireplace, these 3 parts are slightly different,
as in the accompanying illustration.)
Use the rubber mallet to seat the modules. Remove excess mortar and wipe inside and out with a
damp sponge as work progresses.
NOTE: When installing the modules on this course and subsequent courses around the firebox
opening, take care that the parts are flush at the front of the fireplace. This will produce the most
level surface on which to install the door frame later.
Weights
#7 - 52 lbs
#8, #8ST, #9, #9ST - 68

Section 3 - Step-By-Step Assembly
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual
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STEP 5:
Install Parts# 10, 11, 12 &13, using refractory mortar. Also “butter” the ends of part #10, so there
are no gaps on the ends. (Note that parts 11 thru 13 are identical to the previous course.) (In the
"See-Through" fireplace, there is no part #11.)
Seat with the rubber mallet and ensure that joints are tight.
Remember to keep the front edges of the modules aligned and use a 48” level to ensure that the
four sides are plumb.
Leveling the courses is not critical – it is sufficient if the courses are approximately level.
Weights
#10 - 12 lbs
#11 - 52 lbs
#12 & #13 - 68 lbs
#12ST & #13ST - 68 lbs

Section 3 - Step-By-Step Assembly
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual
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STEP 6:
Install the lintel course, parts 14, 15 & 16, in order, using a small (3/8”) bead of refractory mortar
on the outside edges of the adjoining parts.
Weights
#14 & #14 ST- 86 lbs
#15 & #16 - 64 lbs

Section 3 - Step-By-Step Assembly
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual
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STEP 7:
Complete the lintel course with part # 17. Ensure that it aligns with the front edges of the
previous course. Seat firmly with the rubber mallet to ensure thin, strong joints and stable
support for the next course.
(If necessary, this course can be clamped with a tie-down until the refractory mortar sets.)
Weights
#17 - 84 lbs

Section 3 - Step-By-Step Assembly
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual
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STEP 8:
This is the “smoke throat” course and begins with module #18. This part is heavy and awkwardly
shaped and usually requires 2 persons.
Weights
#18 - 93 lbs

Section 3 - Step-By-Step Assembly 19
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual
STEP 9:
Continue the smoke throat course with parts 19 & 20. (Note that the slightly beveled surfaces of
these modules face in towards the firebox.)
Weights
#19 & 20 - 35 lbs

Section 3 - Step-By-Step Assembly 20
Temp-Cast 2000 Installation Manual
STEP 10:
Complete the smoke-throat course by installing #21. Remove all excess mortar and wipe the
modules inside and out.
Weights
#21 - 93 lbs