Tiffen Steadicam Zephyr User manual
Contents
Operating Manual
p/n LIT-807000
2
STEADICAM®ZEPHYR™
Operating Manual
The Tiffen Company
90 Oser Avenue
Hauppauge, New York 11788
631 273-2500
800 645-2522
631 273-2557 fax
www.steadicam.com
www.tiffen.com
Technical Support
1-818-843-4600 ext.17
Manufactured in the United States of America
© 2011 The Tiffen Company, LLC. Written by J. Holway & L. Hayball
3
Table of Contents
Overview 4
The Zephyr™Sled 6
Getting Started 8
Attaching the Camera 10
Balancing 12
The Vest 14
The Arm 16
Setting Your Threads 17
Picking Up the Sled 18
Adjusting the Lift 20
Operating a Steadicam®stabilizer will take time and effort. One key to great operating is setting up and
balancing your sled properly. Another is adjusting the vest to your body, and setting the arm to properly lift
the load.
The next steps are learning how to balance yourself with the rig, how to stand and walk, how to prevent
pendular effects as you move, and what each hand is used for.
This manual is to be used to instruct you in setting up and using your Steadicam®Zephyr™ stabilizer system.
If you have not already done so, we strongly urge you to take a 2, 3, or 6-day Steadicam®workshop for
the best possible training and start to your career as a Steadicam®
workshops at www.steadicam.com).
The Zephyr™is not a push-button magic stick that instantly creates great images. It’s a precision instrument
effort to learn. The more effort and practice you put into operating, the better you will be, so it’s important to
develop good habits from the beginning.
Several two-hour sessions will get you started, but an operator can always be more skilled with a
Steadicam®stabilizer and also be more effective and artistic in choosing how to start, move, and stop the
camera. In the beginning, it’s helpful and more fun to have a friend work with you. Take turns practicing
and spotting for each other. Use a second video camera to record your exercises – how you stand and move
is critical for great operating.
STEADICAM®, UltraBrite®, Ultra2® and Scout™are trademarks of the Tiffen Company, LLC.
Basic Operating 22
Advanced Techniques
Dynamic Balancing 24
Low Mode 26
Accessory for lightweight cameras 28
Zephyr™sled connectors and pin-outs 29
Accessories 30
Cases and Packing 31
®
4
Overview
The Tiffen Company takes great
pride in producing the world’s
best stabilizers. The Zephyr™
stabilizer continues our tradition
of excellence and innovation,
performance, lightweight, and
low-cost rig.
Like all our models, the Zephyr™
stabilizer is designed to be
tool-free, straightforward, and
versatile so the operator can
the sled, arm, and vest to the
best advantage for each shot.
Change the sled length, balance,
inertia, and go to low mode in
a heartbeat. Solid, versatile,
and fast – it’s a breeze with the
Zephyr™system.
The base Zephyr™system starts with a sturdy, two section, indexed
stage for quick and precise balancing. A new solid base is equipped
with independently telescoping monitor and battery rods. The Zephyr™
system comes standard with the Tango™-ready, tool-free gimbal, 16:9
SD LCD Color monitor, and a single battery mount for 12 volts—either
V-Lock or Anton Bauer (AB). 24 volts is optional.
A word about 12 and 24 volts as used in the manual: 12 and 24 volts
typically refer to the nominal voltages required by cameras and
accessories, but the voltage range accepted by the device might be 10 to
16 volts or 20 to 34 volts. Each camera or accessory has its own range
of useful voltages.
Different battery chemistries and numbers of cells typically result in
nominal battery voltages of 14.4 or 14.8 volts, or with two batteries in
series, 28.8 or 29.6 volts. The actual voltage in a battery might be from
11 to 17 volts, depending on charge and battery type. Nominal battery
voltages are always higher than the nominal required by the device, so
that when the battery is almost depleted, it still has more voltage than
that required by the device.
5
All “12 volt” monitor and power
connector ports are supplied
via unregulated battery voltage,
typically 11 to 17 volts.
Included in the base package: the
Zephyr™Iso-Elastic Stabilizer
Arm, Lightweight Zephyr™Vest,
Zephyr™Docking and Balancing
Bracket, 8 add-on Merlin™
weights, wheeled hard case with
handle, 12 volt power cable,
video cable, 2 video adaptors, the
EFP instructional DVD, and the
owner’s manual.
Options for the Zephyr™stabilizer
monitor, 24 volts, and a compact
vest, plus batteries, chargers,
cases, stands, power and video
cables, low-mode kits, vehicle
mounts, and other professional
accessories. Visit www.tiffen.com
for more details.
The monitor and the batteries are
adjustable in and out, which, along
with the add-on Merlin™weights,
creates many choices for viewing,
balance, and inertial control.
All of the above features are
integral to the Zephyr™stabilizer
design, ready to be used when
needed.
6
Camera mounting
platform
Dovetail
lock
The Zephyr™sled
The Zephyr™Sled
Fore-aft
adjustment
knob
Stage
connectors
Post
Post clamp
Side to side
adjustment
knob
Gimbal
clamp
Add-on
weights
Add-on
weights
Clamp for sliding monitor
and battery rods
7
Gimbal
handle
Battery mount
Gimbal
Registration pin
for monitor rod
Registration pin
for battery rod
1/4-20 threads
for mounting
accessory weights
HD BNC
connector
additional LEMO
power connector
8
Getting Started
Prepare the stand and docking bracket
Set up the stand and docking bracket:
Prepare the sled for the camera
Adjust the monitor position:
Adjust the gimbal position:
9
Adjust the battery position and
attach the batteries:
Dock the sled in the docking
bracket:
dovetail
lock
fore-aft
adjustment
knob
side to side
adjustment
knob
Remove the dovetail from the
stage and set aside:
V-lock battery
AB battery
10
Attaching the
Camera
Attaching the camera to the sled
We attach the camera to the sled via a dovetail plate. With the Zephyr™stabilizer,
this plate has safety stops on the ends, and several holes for mounting screws. We
want to attach the dovetail to the camera so that we have the widest possible range of
adjustment, both fore-aft and side to side.
camera’s center of gravity (c.g.) or
balance point, then properly position the
dovetail plate relative to the camera’s c.g.
Finding the camera’s c.g.:
Attaching the dovetail plate:
This position is not intuitive, so
pay close attention to this detail.
Finding the camera’s side to
side center of gravity.
Finding the camera’s fore-aft
center of gravity.
11
Mounting the camera on the sled:
Connect the power and video
cables and test that everything
works:
®
Now proceed to static balance
the sled.
12
Balancing
Balancing the sled
The Steadicam®Zephyr™stabilizing system works, in part, by the careful balancing of
components (camera, monitor, accessories, and battery). We always balance the sled
to help us get the shot, so that the operator does the least amount of work to aim the
balance, where we balance the sled in all three axes (top-to-bottom, side to side, and
fore-aft), so that the sled hangs upright and is not too bottom heavy.
To adjust the balance, we need to put the sled on the docking bracket
balancing stud where it can hang freely from the gimbal
Top to bottom balance
Let’s start with top-to-bottom balance, as
it is one of the least understood aspects of
balance.
It’s best if the sled is slightly bottom
heavy. Clearly, if it is top heavy, it will
tip over. If it is too bottom heavy, it will
hang upright (a good thing) but be hard to
tilt and very hard to control as you move
around (not good at all!).
Note: Before letting go of
the sled, be certain that
it will hang more or less
upright. If the sled wants
to hang upside down, the
camera weight is beyond
the Steadicam®Zephyr™.
So immediately, you should understand
that top-to-bottom balance is a
compromise between competing desires.
If it is just slightly bottom heavy, it can
be balanced to hang at a particular angle
and easier to control.
How do we get the right top-to-bottom
balance?
When balancing a
heavier camera, you
may have to extend
the post. While holding
the bottom of the sled,
release the post clamp
and lengthen the post.
Close the clamp.
12
If the sled is neutrally balanced (neither
top nor bottom heavy) it’s impossible to
balance the sled fore-aft or side to side,
and the operator must do all the aiming of
the sled – not good either.
Note: changing the
length also changes
the range of lens
heights. This can
be a useful tool with
any weight camera.
13
Remember to
always keep the post horizontal
when the gimbal clamp is
loosened!
WARNING: If you open
the gimbal clamp when
the center post is
vertical, the whole sled
will drop rapidly and
damage your sled.
after we get close to fore-aft and side to
the balance in one axis after we balance
in another axis. The object is to get as
close as possible to the best balance for
the shot.
Look at the sled from the side. If the sled is tipped up or down:
“drop time” test
If the rig has a drop time of less than two seconds it is too bottom heavy. You need to
move the sled’s c.g. upwards, closer to the gimbal. If the drop time is more than three
seconds, move the sled’s c.g. lower, further from the gimbal:
Note: A drop time of 1 to 4 seconds might be best for a
particular shot. You will eventually determine what works
best for you for average shooting, and what works best
for you for each shot. But let’s start with a 2 to 3 second
drop time.
fore-aft
adjustment
knob
side to side
adjustment
knob
Fine tune the side to side balance:
balance point of
the gimbal
First we position the gimbal, which acts
as a pivot point, just a bit above the
center of gravity on the center post, and
here’s how we do that:
14
The Vest
The vest
Shoulder
pad
Chest pad
Adjustable
spar
Adjustable
velcro®straps
Chest
connectors
Shoulder
connector
Socket block
Hip
pad
Socket block
height adjustment
Chest plate
release pin
Note: Shorten or extend the shoulder
straps so that the clip is high on your
shoulders when the chest straps are
horizontal.
Also be sure that the shoulder straps
are evenly extended and at the same
angle to the Velcro®.
Adjustable
shoulder
connector
(see insert)
Use an allen key to unlock
and adjust the angle of the
shoulder connector.
15
Please read the vest instructions
completely before you try to put the vest
on. It is very helpful to have a friend help
Otherwise use a full-length mirror.
Open the vest
®
Note: A few operators have
body shapes or sizes that
are out of the general range
of adjustments. You may
remove padding, shorten
or extend straps, etc. to
Pay close attention to the good
above. It’s very important how
the shoulder pads contact the
shoulders and the shoulder
connectors are not too high (a
common mistake).
Putting on the vest
®
Removing the vest
The vest should be unbuckled on the left
side only, from bottom to top:
16
The arm
Steel
springs Lift adjustment
knob
The Arm Arm post
Double action
hinge
Rod ends
Socket
Socket quick
release pin
Upper arm section
Lift
adjustment
knob
Forearm section
The arm socket is inserted into
the socket block on the vest.
Mounting the arm to the vest
The arm mates with the vest via an
adjustable socket in the arm and a
female socket block on the vest. The two
adjustment screws in the socket block on
the vest and two “rod ends” in the mating
section of the arm determine the lift angle
of the arm. These two adjustments are your
body size and shape. Setting your threads
correctly is critical for good operating.
Some combination of adjustment of
these screws – and your physique and
posture – will make the arm lift straight
up when carrying the sled. The angles
of adjustment are not directly “in-out”
and “side to side”, but rotated about
30° clockwise (relative to the operator).
We will suggest approximate threads to
start, but the only real way to test your
threads is to pick up the sled and see what
happens. You can’t set your threads fully
without picking up the rig.
17
in-and-out: count
threads here
Goofy foot
If you want to operate “goofy-foot,” – with the sled on the right side – you will
need to reverse the socket block before starting.
Determining your threads is part of basic operating technique
For almost all operators, regardless of
body type, the typical adjustment for the
“side to side” screws (the rod ends in
the arm) is 1.5 to 2 turns out on the top
screw and ALWAYS all the way in on the
bottom screw.
Use the rollers when the arm is not
lift it up with your left hand to take the
weight off the screws before adjusting
them. The two side to side screws work
independently of one another. Do not
tighten the lower screw, but be sure it is
all the way in, and then back it out 1/8th
of a turn.
The “in-out” screws work in tandem,
and the adjustment varies greatly by the
operator’s body type.
Adjusting your threads
side to side: 2
turns out on top
18
Picking Up the
Sled
Undocking, setting your threads, and docking the sled
With the vest on and the arm attached to the vest, undock the rig:
1
Picking up the sled
19
Test your threads
– you will gain control and endurance rapidly as you
because there are so many adjustments to make before
it all falls into place and “magically” works with you. It
may be that you will want to adjust the lift capacity of the
Eventually you must adjust them both.
Practice replacing the sled in
the docking bracket
7 8 9
20
Adjusting the Lift Adjusting the arm
Setting the lift capacity of the arm
Now it’s time to adjust the arm for the weight of your camera.
Important: The lift
adjustment knobs can
only be turned when the
arm segments are slightly
above horizontal. They
cannot be turned when
the arm is unloaded, i.e.,
when not lifting the sled,
nor if the arm sections
are boomed too far up or
down. Do not force the lift
knobs. At the right angle,
they turn very easily.
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