TURNABOT SLIPPER User manual

1

Thank you for purchasing Slipper, a
non-destructive 150g combat robot.
Slipper is designed to be easy to
assemble, battle, maintain, and
customize if desired.
150g combat robots are known as
“Fairyweight” in the US and “Antweight”
throughout the rest of the world.
Slipper is quite competitive “out of the box”
and can be upgraded to be a serious
contender in almost all 150g competitions.
2

! Safety ! First and Always !
Turnabots are among the safest
combat robot kits available.
*HOWEVER* There are still several
things to be aware of:
Lipo batteries can be VERY dangerous.
Charging should ONLY be done in a Lipo
bag or FAR from anything flammable.
Do NOT cut both wires of a battery at
the same time. If you need to change
connectors, cut one wire, install it in the
new connector, then cut the other wire.
If a Lipo has sustained any damage or
has “puffed” do NOT charge it. DISCARD
it (safely and properly).
3
Assume that ALL electronic
joints and components
have exposed lead.
Do not lick any electronics.
Do not allow children or
pets to lick any electronics.
After anyone touches any
electronics, faces must not
be touched and hands
must be washed with soap,
particularly before eating.

Pre-Soldered Kit
Assembly
Instructions (pages 7-13)
*As with most instructions it is HIGHLY recommended to read ALL THE WAY through the
instructions multiple times before starting. Often a later step clarifies earlier steps.
These instructions will cover every single step in properly assembling your Slipper Kit.
There are 3 sections to these instructions; each page is bordered by the below colors
Standard Kit
Assembly
Instructions (pages 14-17)
Setup / Radio /
Programming
Instructions (pages 18-19)
)
4

File(s) –useful for removing sharp edges
Required:
1. Soldering Iron / Station – at the very least you’ll want
something with adjustable temperature and a small tip
2. Solder –if using leaded solder BE AWARE OF LEAD
POISONING. Lead-free solder can be used successfully
3. Flux –paste or pen, incredibly helpful
4. Flush-Cutters (aka side-cutters)
5. Wire Strippers – decent “auto-strippers” are now
available for under $12 on Amazon and are worth it
6. Needle-Nose Pliers (often helpful for holding wires while
soldering, placing servo screws, etc)
7. Small Phillips Screwdriver
8. 1.5mm hex (allen) driver (key)
Useful
1. File(s) –useful for removing sharp edges
Pre-Soldered Kit
Tools –Required and Useful
Standard Kit
Required:
1. Small Phillips Screwdriver
2. 1.5mm hex (allen) driver (key)
Useful
1. Super-glue / cyanoacrylate (tires, wheels,
repairs, etc. Using “accelerator / activator” is
recommended)
2. Needle-Nose Pliers (often helpful for placing
servo screws among other uses)
3. Thin Acetate (flexible plastic for the front edges
of wedges. Often applied with thin “carpet
tape” or glue)
4. File(s) –useful for removing sharp edges
5

Plastics
And Tires
Servo, Rod,
Paperclip,
Screws & Zip Ties
Electronics Assembly
and Battery
Assembly is very straightforward (you can do it)
1. Top Armor
2. Micro Servo
Adapter
3. Long Spacer
4. Link
5. Short Spacer
6. Right Wheel
7. Chassis
8. Right Arm
9. Left Arm
10. Left Wheel
11. Right Armor
12. Plow
13. Left armor
Every single step will be covered in these instructions.
If you have the Pre-Soldered Kit, start by laying out the parts.
(If you have a Standard Kit, go to page 12)
Yours may be different colors than the below images, but you’ll have the same shape parts.
6

Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 1/7
Micro Servo Adapter installation:
1. If the Micro Servo Adapter
does not have a split at the
bottom you may want to snip
it at the indicated location.
2. Place the Micro Servo into the
Micro Servo Adapter noting
the orientation of the servo
shaft, the adapter ears, and
the adapter side that fits into
the chassis mounts.
3. Install the 2 servo mounting
screws, you do want these
relatively tight)
4. Place the Servo into the
Chassis but do not install the
screws from the adapter to the
chassis yet.
1. 2.
3.
4.
7

Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 2/7
Charging Port/Battery Installation:
5. Insert the battery charging
connector into the mount. This
can be a bit tricky, but it’s
worth making charging easy.
6. Place the Battery into the
Chassis with the wires tucked
into the front corner. The
battery should fit snugly into
the pocket.
6.
5.
8

Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 3/7
Electronics Assembly Installation:
6. Place the Electronics Assembly
into the Chassis.
7. Make sure the gearboxes seat
securely into the pockets.
Ensuring that the switch is in the
OFF position (on the side with
the missing leg, Left in this
image) connect the Battery
and the servo cable.
8. Tuck the switch into its slot.
The switch can be stuck or
glued into position. The
lower it is, the easier it is to
reach, which is “nice” but
increases the chances of it
getting hit in battle. Tuck the
battery connector between
the battery and the mount.
Tuck the servo wires into the
corner.
6. 7.
8.
9

Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 4/7
Radio / Servo setup:
9. At this point in the assembly of any bot,
BEFORE installing the wheels and servo
horn and hard-mounting the servo, it’s a
good idea to make sure that the bot
won’t run away or put the servo horn
hard into the chassis. You can now turn
on the bot. On the Malenki the Red LED
will light up and the Blue LED will begin
flashing rapidly.
10. To bind a FlySky FS-i6, hold the Bind
button while switching it on. To bind a
Turnigy Evolution, hold the power button
to turn it on, click the wrench, scroll
down and touch RX bind. The blue LED
will go solid.
11. With the stick down the servo should be
near 45° the servo body.
12. With the stick up the servo should be
slightly toward the rear of the bot.
If you’re unfamiliar, please see Section 3 for
additional instructions on radio setup.
9.
12.
11.
10
10.