TURNABOT SLIPPER User manual

1

Thank you for purchasing Slipper, a
non-destructive 150g combat robot.
Slipper is designed to be easy to
assemble, battle, maintain, and
customize if desired.
150g combat robots are known as
“Fairyweight” in the US and “Antweight”
throughout the rest of the world.
Slipper is quite competitive “out of the box”
and can be upgraded to be a serious
contender in almost all 150g competitions.
2

! Safety ! First and Always !
Turnabots are among the safest
combat robot kits available.
*HOWEVER* There are still several
things to be aware of:
Lipo batteries can be VERY dangerous.
Charging should ONLY be done in a Lipo
bag or FAR from anything flammable.
Do NOT cut both wires of a battery at
the same time. If you need to change
connectors, cut one wire, install it in the
new connector, then cut the other wire.
If a Lipo has sustained any damage or
has “puffed” do NOT charge it. DISCARD
it (safely and properly).
3
Assume that ALL electronic
joints and components
have exposed lead.
Do not lick any electronics.
Do not allow children or
pets to lick any electronics.
After anyone touches any
electronics, faces must not
be touched and hands
must be washed with soap,
particularly before eating.

Pre-Soldered Kit
Assembly
Instructions (pages 7-13)
*As with most instructions it is HIGHLY recommended to read ALL THE WAY through the
instructions multiple times before starting. Often a later step clarifies earlier steps.
These instructions will cover every single step in properly assembling your Slipper Kit.
There are 3 sections to these instructions; each page is bordered by the below colors
Standard Kit
Assembly
Instructions (pages 14-17)
Setup / Radio /
Programming
Instructions (pages 18-19)
)
4

File(s) –useful for removing sharp edges
Required:
1. Soldering Iron / Station – at the very least you’ll want
something with adjustable temperature and a small tip
2. Solder –if using leaded solder BE AWARE OF LEAD
POISONING. Lead-free solder can be used successfully
3. Flux –paste or pen, incredibly helpful
4. Flush-Cutters (aka side-cutters)
5. Wire Strippers – decent “auto-strippers” are now
available for under $12 on Amazon and are worth it
6. Needle-Nose Pliers (often helpful for holding wires while
soldering, placing servo screws, etc)
7. Small Phillips Screwdriver
8. 1.5mm hex (allen) driver (key)
Useful
1. File(s) –useful for removing sharp edges
Pre-Soldered Kit
Tools –Required and Useful
Standard Kit
Required:
1. Small Phillips Screwdriver
2. 1.5mm hex (allen) driver (key)
Useful
1. Super-glue / cyanoacrylate (tires, wheels,
repairs, etc. Using “accelerator / activator” is
recommended)
2. Needle-Nose Pliers (often helpful for placing
servo screws among other uses)
3. Thin Acetate (flexible plastic for the front edges
of wedges. Often applied with thin “carpet
tape” or glue)
4. File(s) –useful for removing sharp edges
5

Plastics
And Tires
Servo, Rod,
Paperclip,
Screws & Zip Ties
Electronics Assembly
and Battery
Assembly is very straightforward (you can do it)
1. Top Armor
2. Micro Servo
Adapter
3. Long Spacer
4. Link
5. Short Spacer
6. Right Wheel
7. Chassis
8. Right Arm
9. Left Arm
10. Left Wheel
11. Right Armor
12. Plow
13. Left armor
Every single step will be covered in these instructions.
If you have the Pre-Soldered Kit, start by laying out the parts.
(If you have a Standard Kit, go to page 12)
Yours may be different colors than the below images, but you’ll have the same shape parts.
6

Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 1/7
Micro Servo Adapter installation:
1. If the Micro Servo Adapter
does not have a split at the
bottom you may want to snip
it at the indicated location.
2. Place the Micro Servo into the
Micro Servo Adapter noting
the orientation of the servo
shaft, the adapter ears, and
the adapter side that fits into
the chassis mounts.
3. Install the 2 servo mounting
screws, you do want these
relatively tight)
4. Place the Servo into the
Chassis but do not install the
screws from the adapter to the
chassis yet.
1. 2.
3.
4.
7

Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 2/7
Charging Port/Battery Installation:
5. Insert the battery charging
connector into the mount. This
can be a bit tricky, but it’s
worth making charging easy.
6. Place the Battery into the
Chassis with the wires tucked
into the front corner. The
battery should fit snugly into
the pocket.
6.
5.
8

Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 3/7
Electronics Assembly Installation:
6. Place the Electronics Assembly
into the Chassis.
7. Make sure the gearboxes seat
securely into the pockets.
Ensuring that the switch is in the
OFF position (on the side with
the missing leg, Left in this
image) connect the Battery
and the servo cable.
8. Tuck the switch into its slot.
The switch can be stuck or
glued into position. The
lower it is, the easier it is to
reach, which is “nice” but
increases the chances of it
getting hit in battle. Tuck the
battery connector between
the battery and the mount.
Tuck the servo wires into the
corner.
6. 7.
8.
9

Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 4/7
Radio / Servo setup:
9. At this point in the assembly of any bot,
BEFORE installing the wheels and servo
horn and hard-mounting the servo, it’s a
good idea to make sure that the bot
won’t run away or put the servo horn
hard into the chassis. You can now turn
on the bot. On the Malenki the Red LED
will light up and the Blue LED will begin
flashing rapidly.
10. To bind a FlySky FS-i6, hold the Bind
button while switching it on. To bind a
Turnigy Evolution, hold the power button
to turn it on, click the wrench, scroll
down and touch RX bind. The blue LED
will go solid.
11. With the stick down the servo should be
near 45° the servo body.
12. With the stick up the servo should be
slightly toward the rear of the bot.
If you’re unfamiliar, please see Section 3 for
additional instructions on radio setup.
9.
12.
11.
10
10.

Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 5/7
Motor (optionally Wheels) installation:
13. With the Servo Horn properly installed
and the End Points set to ensure a
safe servo range, install the Servo
horn Screw. Install the Zip Ties to the
motors.
14. You may want to use pliers and “roll”
them to get the Zip Ties as snug as
you can without breaking them.
15. Optional –You can continue
building, but if you’d like, you can
temporarily install the Wheels
(without glue) because….
Congratulations! YOU HAVE A ROBOT!!!
At this point you can drive it around and
actuate the flipper servo.
14.
11
13.
15.

Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 6/7
Flipper Assembly and installation:
16. Assemble the flipper. The arms are printed
to have Left and Right Arms, the side that
was on the printer bed has a slightly smaller
hole which helps retain the aluminum rod.
Install the rod into the left arm.
17. Install the Rod and Left Arm to the Plow
using 2 of the M2 x 6mm button-head
screws and install the Short Spacer, Link,
and Long Spacer.
18. Install the Right Arm.
19. Straighten out the Paper Clip. Cut it to the
length of the Chassis Rear Uprights
(between the Wheels) and put a “V” bend
in one end.
20. If you installed it, remove the Left Wheel,
install the Paper Clip through the rear
uprights and the Arms. Use pliers near the
Right Arm to pull the “V” into the upright.
21. Reinstall the Left Wheel and screw the Link
to the servo horn.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20. 21.
12

Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 7/7
Armor Installation:
22. The Turnabot should look like this.
23. Install the Top Armor, with the last
2 M2x6 screws and the Right
Armor and Left armor with the 4
Phillips screws.
24. BATTLE!!!
22.
23.
13
24.

ElectronicsPlastics
And Tires
Servo, Zip Ties,
Screws, Rod,
and Paperclip
Assembly is very straightforward (you can do it)
1. Top Armor
2. Micro Servo
Adapter
3. Long Spacer
4. Link
5. Short Spacer
6. Right Wheel
7. Chassis
8. Right Arm
9. Left Arm
10. Left Wheel
11. Right Armor
12. Plow
13. Left armor
Every single step will be covered in these instructions.
With the Standard Kit, start by laying out the parts.
Yours may be different colors than the below images, but you’ll have the same shape parts.
14
Malenki-Nano
Servo Wire
JST Battery Connector
Motor Connectors
Switch
Battery

Standard Slipper Assembly Page 1/23
1. 2.
3.
4.
15
Micro Servo Adapter installation:
1. If the Micro Servo Adapter
does not have a split at the
bottom you may want to snip
it at the indicated location.
2. Place the Micro Servo into the
Micro Servo Adapter noting
the orientation of the servo
shaft, the adapter ears, and
the adapter side that fits into
the chassis mounts.
3. Install the 2 servo mounting
screws, you do want these
relatively tight)
4. Place the Servo into the
Chassis but do not install the
screws from the adapter to the
chassis yet.

Standard Slipper Assembly Page 2/23
6.
5.
16
Charging Port/Battery Installation:
5. Insert the battery charging
connector into the mount. This
can be a bit tricky, but it’s
worth making charging easy.
6. Place the Battery into the
Chassis with the wires tucked
into the front corner. The
battery should fit snugly into
the pocket.

Standard Slipper Assembly Page 3/23
Placing components 1/2:
5. Place the components to prepare for
wire trimming. First Insert the motors.
We make a general practice of having
“Plusses Up” to make it easier to see when
installed. It helps know where the wires go.
This is helpful with troubleshooting,
particularly in pit sessions between battles.
Place the Switch. Wiring is easier with the
two long legs toward the middle of the bot.
Connect the Servo Extension to the
Servo wire and tuck into the corner.
6. “Plusses Up” on Turnabot motors
generally result in the Red Wire to the
front on the Right side of the bot and
to the back on the Left side. The male
side of the motor connector goes to
the motor.
6.
5.
17

Standard Slipper Assembly Page 4/23
Placing components 2/2:
7. A dot of Blu-Tak under the motor
connectors is very helpful for wiring.
Place the Malenki-Nano between
the right motor and the battery as
shown.
8. Connect the male and female ends
of the two motor connector wires.
They nest next to each other and
are secured to the dot of Blu-Tak.
Left motor connector toward the back of the
bot improves the routing.
9. Insert the JST Battery Connector
between the battery and the
charge port mount. To ease battery
swaps the Black Wire is routed
along the corner of the bot, then to
the Malenki. The Red Wire is cut at
the further leg of the switch. The cut
portion of Red Wire is routed along
the corner and then to the Malenki.
8.
7.
18
9.

Standard Slipper Assembly Page 5/23
Trimming Motor Connector Wires 1/2:
10. Trim the four motor connector wires
flush to the motor caps. This will
allow you to solder the wires to the
sides of the motor terminals,
making as strong of a connection
as possible.
10.
19
Finished
Wiring
For
Reference

Standard Slipper Assembly Page 6/23
Trimming Motor Connector Wires 2/2:
11. Trim the motor connector wires to
the FAR side of the appropriate
solder rings on the Malenki. Leave
enough wire to go through each
solder ring. You can always trim
extra later.
11.
20
Finished
Wiring
For
Reference