UnionSpecial 39500FS Instruction sheet

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC
FINE ST QUALITY
ST YLES
39 500FS
39 500FT
395 00FU
39S 00G D
395 00GL
395 00GT
395 00J P
395 00MM
CATALOG
No.
103FS
SECOND
EDITION
LEWIS• COLUMBIA
CLASS 39500
HI-STYLED
®
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
MACHINES
HIGH SPEED OVERSEAMERS
WITH
INTERMITTENT DIFFERENTIAL FEED
CHICAGO

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC
Here are
Oil Specifications
for Union Special
Sewing Machines
Specification 174 spec ifies a high q ualit y pet-
roleum oil, viscosity 100 sec ond s at 100° F. Recom-
mended for all oiling applications on high speed
machine s.
Specification 175 specifies a high quality pet -
ro
leum oil, viscosity 100 seconds at 100°F ., water
whit e or wi th a maximum A.S.T.M. co lor number of
1. For use where freedom from oil staining is para-
mount.
Specification 87 specifies a high quality pet ·
roleum oil, viscosi ty 300 seconds at 100°F.
Specification 100 specifies a general purpose
high quality grease for use in ball bearings and trans-
mitter s. It is similar to commerc i al N.L.G .I. , grease No .
3. Where
No. 3 grease is not obtainable, No. 2 may be
used.
UNION SPECIAL
SPECIFICATION NO. 174 175 87
Viscosity S.S.U. at 100°F
90-125 90 - 125 300-350
Flash (Min.) 350 350
350
Pour (Max.) 20 20 20
Color A.S.T.M. (Max.) 3 1 3
Neutralization No. (Max.) 0. 10 0. 10 0.10
Viscosity Index
(D & D Min .) 85 85 85
Compounding None None None
Copper Corro si on (Max .) lA lA lA
* An line No . 175-225 175-225 175- 225
*Used wi th Buna N Rubber " O" Retainers
..
NOTE 1: The use of non- corrosive additives in oil s
meeting above classification
is desirable but not
essential. These may include :
1. Oxidation inhib i tors
2. Rust inhibitors
3. Lubr i city addit i ves
4. Anti - oxidant s
5.
Film strength additives
These additives must be completely so lubl e in the oil
and not removable by wick feeding nor shall they
separate.
NOTE 2: Oil s c onta ining th e following type addit i ve s
shall
not be used at a ny time :
1. Extreme pressure additives-corrosi ve
2. Tackiness or adhesive additives
3. Lead soap
additives
4. Detergents
®
f! NUT OUA U TY
CORPORATION

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC
October, 197 3
Catalog No. 103 FS
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
ADJUSTING AND OPERATING
LIST OF PARTS
Class 39500
39500 FS
39500 FT
39500 FU
39500 GD
Styles
39500 GL
39500 GT
39500 JP
39500 MM
Second Edition
Copyright 1967
By
Union Special Corporation
Rights Reserved in All Countries
CORPORATION
INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES
CHICAGO
Printed in U.S. A.
3

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC
IDENTIFICATION OF MACHINES
Each Union Special machine is identified by a Style number on a name plate on
the machine. Style numbers are classified as standard and special. Standard Style
numbers have one or more letters suffixed. but never contain the letter "Z". Ex-
ample: "Style 39500 FS". Special Style numbers contain the letter "Z". When only
minor changes are made in a standard machine. a "Z
II
is suffixed to the standard
Style number. Example: "Style 39500 FSZ".
Styles of machines similar in construction are grouped under a Class number
which differs from the Style number in that it contains no letters. Example: "Class
39500".
APPLICATION OF CA TA LOG
This catalog applies specifically to the standard Styles of machines as listed
herein. It can also be applied with discretion to some Special Styles of machines in
Class 39500. References to directions, such as right. left, front, back. etc •• are
given from the operator's position while seated at the machine. Operating direction
of handwheel is away from operator.
STYLES OF MACHINES
Hi-Style High Speed, One or Two Curved Blade Needles. Two Looper. Three or
Four Thread Overseaming Machine. Intermittent Differential Feed. Trimming
Mechanism with Spring Pressed Lower Knife. Automatic Lubricating System.
39500 FS Single needle three thread. medium to heavy duty machine. for seaming
and intermittently gathering or shirring on woven and knit materials such as
dresses. aprons. lingerie. smocks. nightgowns and similar garments. Knee
press controlled tandem intermittent differential feed. Slotted presser foot to
separate top and bottom plies. Gathering ratio up to 3 to 1 depending on stitch
length. Seam specification 504-SSa-1. Standard width of seam 1/8 inch (3.17
mm). Stitch range 8-20 per inch. Cam adjusted main and differential feeds.
Maximum recommended speed 6000 R.P.M.
39500 FT Single needle three thread, medium to heavy duty machine. for seaming
and intermittently gathering or shirring on woven and knit materials such as
dresses. aprons. lingerie. smocks. nightgowns and similar garments. Knee
press controlled _ tandem intermittent --.? ifferential feed. Independent swing-out
pressure plate att a c lmien t for shirring .! Gathering ratio up to 3 to 1 depending
on stitch length ';- Seam specificat T <5il" 504-SSa-1. Standard width of seam 3/16
inch (4. 76 mm). Stitch range 8-20 per inch. Cam adjusted main and differential
feeds. Maximum recommended speed 6000 R.P.M.
39500 FU Single needle three thread. medium to heavy duty machine. for seaming
and intermittently gathering or shirring on woven and knit materials such as
dresses, aprons. lingerie. smocks. nightgowns and similar garments. Knee
press controlled tandem intermittent differential feed. Presser foot bottom
grooved for 1/ 8 inch cord. Independent swing-out pressure plate attachment for
shirring. Gathering ratio up to 5 to 1 depending on stitch length. Seam speci-
fi cation 504-SSa-1. Standard width of se am 3/16 inch (4. 76 mm). Stitch range
8-20 per inch. Cam adjusted main and differential feeds. Maximum recommend-
ed speed 5500 R.P.M.
39500 GD Two needle four thread. medium to heavy duty machine. for seaming and
intermittently gathering or shirring on woven and knit materials such as dres -
ses. aprons. lingerie. smocks. nightgowns and similar garments. Knee press
controlled tandem intermittent differential feed. Independent swing-out pres -
su re plate attachment for s hirring. Gath er ing r atio up to 3 to 1 de pending on
stitch length. Seam specification 512-SSa-1. Standard width of seam from left
needle 17 / 64 inch (6. 75 mm). Stitch range 8-20 per inch. Cam adjusted main
and differential feeds. Maximum recommended speed 6000 R.P.M.
4

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STYLES OF MACHINES (Continued)
39500 GL Two needle four thread, medium to heavy duty machine, for seaming and
intermittently gathering or shirring on woven and knit materials such as dres -
ses. aprons, lingerie, smocks, nightgowns and similar garments. Knee press
controlled tandem intermittent differential feed. Independent swing-out pres -
sure plate attachment for shirring. Gathering ratio up to 5 to 1 depending on
stitch length. Seam specification 512-SSa-1. Standard width of seam from left
needle 17/ 64 inch (6. 75 mm). Stitch range 8-2 0 per inch. Cam adjusted main
and differential feeds. Maximum recommended speed 5500 R.P.M.
39500 GT Single needle three thread. medium to heavy duty machine, for seaming
and intermittently gathering or shirring on all types of cotton, dacron, rayon
and silk fabrics where a 3/ 32 inch (2. 38 mm) turned down hem is desired. Knee
press controlled tandem intermittent differential feed. Presser foot has a short
curler stitch tongue. Independent swing-out pressure plate attachment for
shirring. Gathering ratio up to 3 to 1 depending on stitch length. Seam speci-
fication 504-EFe-1 inverted. Standard width of seam 3/32 inch (2. 38 mm).
Stitch range 10-20 per inch. Cam adjusted main and differential feeds. Maxi-
mum recommended speed 6000 R.P.M.
39500 JP Single needle three thread. light to medium duty machine, with operator
adjusted intermittent differential feed for seaming and trimming all types and
weights of flat, warp and ribbed knit cotton, wool, rayon and silk fabrics where
long straight seams are necessary. Thumbscrew feed which allows either re-
versed or forward differential feeding. Seam specification 504-SSa-1. Standard
width of seams 3/32 and 1/8 inch (2.38 and 3.17 mm). Stitch range 8-30 per
inch. Cam adjusted main and differential feeds. Maximum recommended speed
6000 R.P.M.
39500 MM Single needle three thread, medium to heavy duty machine, for seaming
and intermittent gathering or shirring on woven and knit materials such as
dresses, aprons, lingerie, smocks. nightgowns and similar garments. Knee
press controlled tandem (in termitten t differential feed. Independent swing-out
pressure plate g tac h men t fo .~.. shi !. rin )~ Gathering ratio up t? 5 to 1 depending
on stitch length. S eam specification SU 4-SSa-1. Standard width of seam 3/16
inch (4. 76 mm). Stitch range 8-20 per inch. Cam adjusted main and differential
feeds. Maximum recommended speed 5500 R.P.M.
OILING
CAUTION! Oil was drained from machine when shipped. so reservoir must be
fiiled before beginning to operate. Oil capacity of Class 39500 is sw ounces. A
straight mineral oil of a Saybolt viscosity of 90 to 125 seconds at 100 Fahrenheit
should be used.
Machine is filled with oil at spring cap in top cover. Oillevel is checked at sight
gauge on front of machine. Red bulb on oil level indicator should show between gauge
lines when machine is stationary.
Machine is automatically lubricated. No oiling is necessary, other than keeping
main reservoir filled. Check oil daily before the morning start; add oil as required.
The oil drain plug screw is located at back of machine near bottom edge of base.
It is a magnetic screw designed to accumulate possible foreign materials which may
have entered the crank case. It should be removed and cleaned periodically.
5

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NEEDLES
Each Union Special needle has both type and size number. The type number de-
notes the kind of shank, point, length, groove, finish and other details. The siz e
number, stamped on the needle shank, denotes largest diameter of blade, measured
in thousandths of an inch, midway between shank and eye. Collectively, type and
size number represent the complete symbol which is given on the label of all nee-
dles packaged and sold by Union Special.
Class 39500 machines use a curved blade needle. The standard recommended
needle for Styles 39500 FS, FT., FU, GD, GL, JP and MM is Type 154 GAS .. while the
standard needle for Style 39500 GT is Type 154 GBS. Below are the type numbers,
description and sizes available of the recommended needles.
Type No.
154 GAS
154 GBS
Description and Sizes
Round shank, round point., curved blade, standard length, single
groove, struck groove, spotted, chromium plated and is available
in sizes 022., 025, 027, 029, 032, 036, 040, 044, 049, 054, 060.
Round shank, round point, curved blade, standard length, double
groove, struck groove, spotted, chromium plated and is available
in sizes 027, 029, 032.
To have needle orders promptly and accurately filled, an empty package, a
sample needle, or the type and size number should be forwarded. Use description
on label. A complete order would read:
11
1000 Needles, Type 154 GAS, Size 027
11
•
Selection of the proper needle size is determined by size of thread used. Thread
should pass freely through needle eye in order to produce a good stitch formation.
Success in the operation of Union Special machinee can be secured only by use
of needles packaged under our brand name, ~ ., which is backed by a re-
putation for producing highest quality needles in materials and workmanship for
more than three-quarters of a century.
CHANGING NEEDLES
Release pressure on presser foot by turning presser foot release bushing (AG,
Fig. 1 and lA) and swing presser arm (U) out of position. Turn handwheel in opera-
ting direction until needle is at its lowest point of travel. Using hexagonal socket
wrench No. 21388 AU., furnished with machine, loosen needle clamp nut about 1/4
turn. Again turn handwheel until needle "is at high position; withdraw needle.
To replace needle, leave needle holder at high position and, with the flat to the
left, insert needle in holder until it rests against stop pin. Keeping needle in this
position, turn handwheel until holder is again at its low point of travel, then tighten
nut. Return presser arm (U) to position; re-lock presser foot release bushing (AG).
THREAD STAND (504 STITCH)
After thread comes from cones on cone support (A., Fig. 1 ), it is brought up
through back hole of thread eyelet (B)., then down through the front hole of thread
eyelet. Next it is threaded through the upper holes of tension thread guide (C) from
front to back and then throu gh the lower holes from back to front. It should be noted
that the lower looper thread is threaded through the tension thread guide (C ), first
through the upper hole back to front., second throu gh the middle hole front to back and
third through the lower hole back to front. All threads then continue between the
tension discs (J)., through tension post slot (K) in tension post (G) and on through
front thread guide (M).
6

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li] Tension Nut
II Tension Spring Fe r~
II Tension Spring~ ---~~~
[!] Tension Post
IIJ spring Shield .. ..-::: :, ~
O Tension Discs :~.:: ··
l3 Tension Post Slot :
IITension Disc Felt ·..
[i Te nsion Thr e ad Guide
FIJ Front Thr e ad Guide
IIJupper Looper Thread Eyelet
Iii Auxiliary Looper Thread Eyelet
(9Lower Looper Thread Eyelet
DFrame Looper
Thread Guide
DJ Presser Arm
Fig. 1
l;) Thread Eyelet
7
Top Cover
.. ..,.,. Needle Thread Eyelet
Upper Looper
Thread Tube Assembly
m Lower Looper

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC
m Tension Nut
[!] Tension Po st
ll) spring Shield
..
O Tension Di scs ·.. __ _
(I Tension Post Slot ·.
nTe nsion Dis c Felt ·.
[i Tension Thr e ad Guid t,
f,I) Front Thr ead Guide
(II Upper Looper Thread Eyelet
Iii Auxiliary Looper Thread Eyelet
i9 Lower Looper Thr e ad Eyelet
(il Fabric Guard Br a cket
D Frame Looper
Thread Guide
m Presser Arm
Fig. lA
(;) Thr e ad Ey elet
---...
8
i
I
I
I
I
I
\
I
I
I
I
Top Cover
.. lllli.. Needl e Thread Eyelet
Upper Looper
Thread Tube Aa sembly
~ Upper Looper
m Lower Looper

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC
THREAD STAND (512 STITCH)
After thread comes from cones on cone support (A, Fig. lA ), the needle threads
are threaded through the back bar of the thread eyelet (B), under the middle bar and
through the center holes of the front bar. The looper threads come from the cones,
through holes of the middle bar from back to front and then through the two outside
holes of the front bar. Next it is threaded through the upper holes of tension thread
guide (C) front to back and then through the lower holes from back to front. The
threads continue between the tension discs (J), through tension post slot (K) in tension
post (G) and on through front thread guide (M).
NOTE: Refer to Fig. 1 for threading Styles 39500 FS, FT, FU, GT, JP and MM, or
refer to Fig. lA for threading Styles 39500 GD and GL.
THREADING
Only parts involved in threading are shown in threading diagrams (Fig. 1 and
lA). Parts are placed in their relative positions for clarity.
It will simplify the threading of these machines to follow the recommended se -
quence of threading lower looper first, upper looper second, and needle or needles
third.
The threading in Fig. 1 and Fig. lA are the same, the only difference will be
the threading of two needle threads in Fig. lA as compared to one needle thread in
Fig. 1. The additional needle in Fig. lA moves the lower looper thread tension post
to the right.
Before beginning to thread, swing cloth plate open, turn handwheel in operating
direction until needle (X) is in high position, release pressure on presser foot by
turning presser foot release bushing (AG), and swing presser arm (U) out of posi-
tion.
Be sure the threads, as they come from the tension thread guide (C), are be-
tween the tension discs (J) and in tension post slot (K) in tension post (G). The tens-
ion posts should be positioned so the tension post slot will be at the approximate angle
for the different threads as indicated in Fig. 1 and lA.
TO THREAD LOWER LOOPER
Double end of thread and lead it through both eyes of lower looper thread eye -
let (R, Fig. 1 or lA) from right to left. NOTE: Thread must pass in front of looper
thread pull-off ·(AF). Lead thread behind fabric guard (S) and through hole of frame
looper thread guide (T). Turn handwheel in operating direction until heel of lower
looper (V) is all the way to the left; then thread through both eyes from left to right.
Left eye of lower looper can be threaded easily if tweezers are in left hand.
TO THREAD UPPER LOOPER
Turn handwheel until point of upper looper (W) is all the way left. Lead thread
through auxiliary looper thread eyelet (P)from back to front, then through both eyes
of upper looper thread eyelet (N) from left to right. NOTE: Thread must pass in front
of looper thread pull-off (AF). After pulling up upper looper thread tube assembly
(AA). lead thread under neck of top cover casting and down through thread tube as -
sembly (AA). Pull thread out bottom of tube; push tube down, then insert thread
through upper looper eye from front to back.
CAUTION! Be sure upper looperthread is under lowerlooperthreadwhenpass-
ing from tube assembly to upper looper eye.
9

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC
TO THREAD THE NEEDLE
Turn handwheel in operating direction until needle or needles (X. Fig. 1 or lA)
is at its highest position. Insert needle thread or threads from right to left. through
both eyes of needle thread eyelet (AD). under neck of top cover casting; and then down
through hole or holes in top cover needle thread eyelet (AC). Thread needle from
front.
THREAD TENSION
The amount of tension on needle and looper threads is regulated by tension nuts
(D. Fig. 1 or lA). Tension on threads should be only enough to secure proper stitch
formation.
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
Sufficient presser foot pressure to feed work uniformly
should be maintained. Should it be necessary to increase or
decrease amount of pressure on presser foot. loosen lock
nut (A. Fig. 2) and turn adjusting screw (B). Adjusting screw
has a right hand thread so tightening increases pressure.
loosening decreases pressure. When pressure adjusting
screw (B) has been properly set. tighten lock nut (A). With
presser foot resting on throat plate. position locking nut
(C) so that its under surface is approximately 1/ 32 inch
to 1/16 inch (. 79 to 1. 59 mm) from the top surface of ad-
justing screw (B). Set cap (D) against locking nut (C).
FEED ECCENTRICS
Fig. 2
Feed eccentrics used in Style 39500 FS machines have been selected to produce
approximately 14 stitches per inch. It will be noted that the part number of main
feed eccentric is No. 39540 B-14 while ' that of the differential feed eccentric is No.
39540 B-4. Minor numbers of the part symbol indicate approximately the number
of stitches obtainable when using that eccentric. Unless otherwise specified. machine
will be shipped with above combination of eccentrics. Refer to exploded views for
eccentrics used on the other styles of machines covered in this catalog.
Generally speaking. the main (right hand) feed eccentric determines the number
of stitches produced; the differential (left hand) feed eccentric is selected so as to
give the proper differential or gathering action.
Following stitch number feed eccentrics are available under No. 39540 B-4.
5., 6. 1. 8., 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14., 15., 16., 18., 20., 22. 24. 26., 28., 30., 32., 34. 36.
40. Only two eccentrics are supplied with each ma-
chine. Additional eccentrics may be ordered separ-
ately. To order an eccentric. use No. 39540 B with
Fig. 3
a minor number suffixed to indicate number of
stitches desired. Example: "39540 B-14".
ASSEMBLING AND ADJUSTING SEWING PARTS
Before assembling and adjusting sewing parts.
remove cloth plate., fabric guard., chip guard., upper
knife assembly. lower knife holder assembly. then
follow this suggested sequence.
10