VersaTube FBM3242410616 User manual

UNIVERSAL ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
FOR VERSATUBE GARAGE BUILDINGS
PAGE 1
Our unique assembly process quickly transforms the individual pieces into a finished
structure that will give you years of service. Great care has been taken to ensure
complete satisfaction with your purchase. In the unlikely event that there are any missing
or damaged parts or if you simply need technical assistance, please call our Toll Free Hot-
line at 1-800-900-7222 and your questions will be addressed promptly. Thank you for
choosing the VersaTube Building System.
© MSMP INC. 09/17/14 ZINST-VB COMPLETE
SINGLE DOOR GARAGE
AVAILABLE IN 12’, 20’, 24’ AND 30’ WIDTHS
DOUBLE DOOR GARAGE
AVAILABLE IN 24’ AND 30’ WIDTHS

IMPORTANT
Read the following safety warnings and all instructions in their entirety prior to installation. If you have questions or are missing any parts, contact Ver-
saTube Building Systems Customer Service at 1-800-900-7222 before proceeding.
WARNING:
This structure and its manufactured components are engineered per the instructions and engineering plans provided by VersaTube Building Systems. The
use of any framing components or materials in the erection of this structure that are not produced or provided by VersaTube could negatively affect the
structural integrity and will negate any warranty provisions. VersaTube Building Systems and its authorized dealers are not responsible for any structural
collapse or failure to perform resulting from additions, add-ons, or manipulation of non-VersaTube components and/or failure to follow approved instruc-
tions.
WARNING:
Metal parts may get hot when exposed to high heat or direct sunlight. Avoid contact with skin and wear protective gloves and clothing to prevent the possi-
bility of burns.
WARNING:
Avoid installation on windy days as wind may create hazards during the installation process. Wind may blow material or cause partially installed compo-
nents to collapse prior to being secured or fully installed. The weight of the components or structure may cause serious injury if it should collapse.
WARNING:
Metal conducts electricity and electrical shock hazards exist since the structure is made of metal. During installation or storage, keep the structure and all
components away from electrical sources. Make sure that your selected location is away from power lines, underground cables, and any other source of
electrical power. Serious injury or even death may occur if contact is made with electrical current.
WARNING:
If the structure is moved once it has been installed, be certain to inspect all components and conditions and follow each and every step of these instructions
to make certain that the structure is securely anchored, properly installed, and aligned. Failure to follow these steps could lead to collapse of the structure
and may result in serious risk of injury.
WARNING:
In the event that your structure is enclosed, be sure to provide proper and adequate ventilation and egress and ingress. Hazardous, poisonous or noxious
substances should not be stored in the structure absent proper ventilation and all warnings and instructions of the manufacturer of the substance. Also,
proper ingress and egress should be provided to prevent adults or children from becoming trapped inside the structure.
WARNING:
If metal panels are selected to cover all or a portion of your structure, be careful of the sharp edges which may cause cuts or lacerations. Wear protective
work gloves and suitable clothing for protection and always take care when handling metal parts. Always wear safety goggles or glasses when cutting
metal or driving/drilling screws.
NOTE:
The VersaTube Building System is an all domestically produced galvanized tubular steel framing system. Maintenance is required twice annually on par-
ticular areas of the framing system i.e. ‘’weld seams” and “cut or raw ends”. This maintenance is performed by applying any “Zinc coated” silver spray paint
found at local mass merchant or paint store to these areas twice annually or every six (6) months.
NOTE:
All sheet metal cladding applied to the VersaTube frame are attached with self drilling screws with a rubber washer. These screws produce small shavings
when drilling through the cladding. If the shavings are allowed to sit on the sheet metal for an extended period, rust spots will form and promote deteriora-
tion. Metal shavings must be brushed after installation of the sheet metal. Claims reported against rust spots will not be honored by VersaTube Building
Systems.
© MSMP INC. 12/12 PAGE 2
SAFETY, HAZARD, AND MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
ABOUT OUR BUILDINGS
 Buildings come in four widths: 12’, 20’, 24’, and 30’.
 Buildings come in three side or eave heights: 8’, 10’, or 12’. Height extensions are required to create 10’ and 12’ side height buildings.
2’ height extensions for 10’ and 4’ height extensions for 12’.
 Buildings are supplied with 4’,5’ or 6’ on center post spacing depending on the requirements for wind and snow load in your area of
the country. It is the customer’s sole responsibility to determine the specific code requirements applicable in city and state in which the
product will be erected.
 The building length will be determined by the number of extension base rails you use. All buildings have starter base rails which are
ether 6’, 8’ or 10’ with 2 or 3 vertical pins. These are installed first on ether side at the front of the building. After the starter base rails
are in place extension base rails are inserted down the length of the building. These extension base rails will be 8’ and 4’ for 4’ O/C
buildings and 10’ and 5’ for 5’ O/C buildings, 6’ for 6’ on center buildings. NOTE: The length of the frame is 2” longer than the
advertised length. (example: a 20’ long building is actually 20’-2” long). See the last page for a concrete slab drawing.
 All buildings will have purlins and girts for application of vertical sheet metal.
 The frame layout for the back and front of the building will be different for each building width and height.
 The standard VersaTube® buildings have the following garage door openings: 12’ wide (1) 9’x7’ door, 20’ wide (1) 16’x 7’ door, 24’
wide (1) 16’ x 7’ door or (2) 9’ x 7’ doors (optional), and 30’ wide (1) 16’ x 7’ door or (2) 9’ x 7’ doors (optional). The frame can be ad-
justed to accommodate taller doors in the same widths. (Doors not included)
 A side access or walk door frame is provided with each building. (Door not included)
 Window frame kits and windows are optional.
 We recommend that your building be anchored to a concrete slab with built-in footings and a sheeting ledge. A foundation drawing is
provided for the proper slab construction. The building can also be anchored to a larger, pre-existing slab.

ATTENTION:
IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU READ THE FOLLOWING NOTE
BEFORE STARTING THE ASSEMBLY OF YOUR BUILDING
NOTE:
If during the installation process you have difficulty fitting frame components together, use an
adjustable wrench to open end of receiving tube as shown below, left. Close wrench down around bent por-
tion of tube and bend wall outward.
It may also be helpful to hit the center of the swaged at the end of the tube to create more of a lead.
What you’ll need:
Work Gloves
Hammer
PAGE 3
Chalk Line and
Mason Line or
Nylon String
STRIKE WITH HAMMER
Pencil/Marker and
Felt Marker
Cordless (14 or 18 volt)
Or Electric Screw Gun
With 5/16" Socket Drive
Torque Setting
One must be able to comfortably reach
the peak of the building 10’ to 16' high
Depending on building width and height.
An Extension ladder can also be helpful
when installing sheet metal.
2 Step Ladders
Level
Utility Knife
Wrench, 3/4” & 1/2”
Motor Cycle or
Ratchet Straps
(May be required to pull
frame plumb.)
Vise grip or other
quick clamp
Adjustable wrench
Tin Snips
Aviation Snips
Hammer
Drill
Masonry
Drill Bit
1/2” x 8”
Drill depth
Tape Measure
Safety Goggles
Or glasses
Hack Saw or
Circular saw with
Abrasive disk

BASIC PARTS LIST: SIZES AND QUANTITIES WILL VARY BY BUILDING WIDTH AND LENGTH
SEE THE PACKING SLIP WITH YOU BUILDING FOR PART NUMBERS AND QUANTITIES.
8’ or 10’ STARTER BASE RAIL
Used on buildings with 4’ or 5’ on
center post spacing
6’ STARTER BASE RAIL
Used on buildings with 6’ on
center post spacing
4’, 5’ or 6’ BASE EXTENSION
RAIL Used on buildings with 4’,
5’ or 6’ on center post spacing
8’ or 10’ BASE EXTENSION
RAIL Used on buildings with 4’ or
5’ on center post spacing
4’ BASE EXTENSION RAIL
Used on buildings with 4’ on
center post spacing
8’ BASE EXTENSION RAIL
Used on buildings with 4’ on
center post spacing
PEAK
SIDE POST
RAFTER
HEIGHT EXTENSION
T-CONNECTOR
L-CONNECTOR
COLLAR TIE BRACKET
LEFT AND RIGHT
2X2 BACK/FRONT BASE RAIL
2X2 VERTICAL EXTENSION
2X2 VERTICAL HEADER BRACE
GARAGE DOOR HEADER,
2X3, SWAGED END.
ANGLE BRACKET
FLAT BRACKET
SINGLE PURLIN BRACKET
DOUBLE PURLIN
BRACKET
TRUSS BRACE END TIE 2” X 2”
BUTYL SEALING TAPE
INSIDE CLOSURE
OUTSIDE CLOSURE
FRONT & BACK GIRTS 1 1/2 SQUARE #12 SELF-DRILLING
#10 PAN HEAD, SELF–
DRILLING SCREW
1” SELF-DRILLING SCREW
WITH WASHER, PAINTED
PARTS NOT SHOWN ARE 2X3 OR 2X2 STRAIGHT LENGTH
PARTS. SHEET METAL AND TRIM ARE SHOWN IN THAT
SECTION. PAGE 4
BACK VERTICAL 2X2X81 3/4”
SWAGED ONE END
HAT CHANNEL (ROOF AND SIDES)
4’, 5’, 8’, or 10’ LENGTH.
1/2” x 7” CONCRETE
WEDGE ANCHOR
TRUSS BRACE CENTER TIE 2” X 2”
SWAGED BOTH ENDS

PAGE 5
STEP 1: FOUNDATION CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL BUILDING OFFICIAL BEFORE YOU
POUR A SLAB OR ANCHOR YOUR BUILDING.
We recommend that you have a concrete slab poured as a foundation for your building. A foundation drawing is included
with the assembly instructions.
If you choose to mount the building to an existing slab, the slab should be larger than the outside building frame
dimensions by at least 3” front to back and 6” side to side. NOTE: The length of the frame is 2” longer than the adver-
tised length. (example: a 20’ long building is actually 20’-2” long). See the last page for a concrete slab drawing.
STEP 2: BASE RAIL ASSEMBLY
Place the starter base rails in the front corners of the building 1 1/2” in from the sheeting ledge on the sides of the slab.
(See FRONT DETAIL below) The outside dimension of the base rails should be your building width (12’, 20’, 24’, or 30’)
The starter base rails are ether 6’-2”, 8’-2” or 10’-2” long with 2 or 3 welded vertical pins. The 8’-2” rails are for 4’ on cen-
ter frames and the 10’-2” rails are for 5’ on center frames and the 6’-2” rails are for 6’ on center frames.
Now, insert 8’ or 10’ length extension base rails into the starter base rails as shown until you get to the desired building
length. NOTE: the last base rails that you insert to get to your building length may be 4’ or 5’ base extensions.
The vertical pins should be on 4’ or 5’ centers. Measure the distance from the end pin on each base rail to the first pin on
the next inserted base rail and adjust the joint so that all the pins are on 4’ or 5’ centers. (46” or 58” between pins)
HINT: IT may be helpful to cut a spacer board 46” or 58” to use as a guide for pin spacing. When you are sure that you
have all the base rails in the proper location, fasten each joint with two #12 self-drilling screws on the top of the base rail.
ANCHORING THE BASE RAILS:
Check with your local building official to see if concrete expan-
sion bolts are acceptable in your area. Some regions may
require adhesive anchors. We recommend 1/2” x 7” expansion
anchors with a 1/2” flat washer.
INSTALLATION:
Use a 1/2” concrete bit in a hammer drill to drill a 5” deep hole in
the slab. Use the anchor hole in the tube as a guide. Place the
washer and nut on the top of the bolt with about 2 threads
showing. Tap the bolt into the hole with a hammer and tighten
the nut until it is good and snug. Do not crush the base rail tube.
PIN
4’ OR 5’
4’ OR 5’
STARTER BASE RAIL
8’-2” OR 10’-2” (3) PINS
EXTENSION BASE RAIL
8’-2” OR 10’-2” (2) PINS.
(AS MANY AS NEEDED TO
GET TO YOUR BUILDING
LENGTH
EXTENSION BASE RAIL
4’ OR 5’
ACTUAL SIZES:
52 3/4”, (1) SWAGE, (1)
PIN OR
64 3/4”, (1) SWAGE, (1)
PIN.
SOME BUILDINGS WILL
NOT HAVE A 4’ OR 5’
EXTENSION AT THE
END
1 1/2”
1 1/2”
1 1/2”
FRONT VIEW
1 1/2”
1 1/2”
SIDE VIEW
JOINT DETAIL
7”
PLACE THE END OF THE
STARTER RAIL WITH 2 ANCHOR
HOLES IN THE CORNER OF THE
BUILDING
LAYOUT FOR 6’ ON CENTER BASE RAILS
6’ STARTER RAIL 6’ BASE EXTENSION

STEP 3: ROOF/WALL FRAME ASSEMBLY
On the ground, assemble (1) peak, (2) rafters, (2) side posts, and (2) height extensions if required. (10’ or 12’ side height
buildings require 2’ or 4’ height extensions.)
Before you fasten the joints with screws take a measurement across the top and bottom of the assembly as shown. This
outside measurement is the outside size of your building. (12’, 20’, 24’, or 30’) Try to keep the joint spacing on both sides
of the assembly equal. It is very helpful to drive stakes into the ground at the width of the building and use them
to set the dimension at the bottom of the assembly. You should set the bottom dimension before you adjust and
set the top dimension.
Now, fasten the joints with #12 self-drilling screws. 4 screws in the peak to rafter and side post to rafter joints and 2
screws in the height extension joints. See details below.
NOTE: You can use the first assembly as a template to assemble the remaining Roof/Wall Frames.
PAGE 6
12’, 20’, 24’, OR 30’
12’, 20’, 24’, OR 30’
SIDE POST HEIGHT EXTENSION JOINT
SIDE POST TO RAFTER JOINT
PEAK TO RAFTER JOINT
PEAK
RAFTER
HEIGHT EXTENSION
(NOT ON 8’ SIDE
HEIGHT BUILDINGS)
(2’) 28 3/4”, 1 SWAGE
ON 10’ HIGH BUILDING.
(4’) 52 3/4”, 1 SWAGE
ON 12’ HIGH BUILDING
2’, OR 4’
#12 SELF-DRILLING
SCREW
DRIVE STAKES INTO THE GROUND TO CREATE
A FIXTURE FOR SETTING THE BOTTOM
DIMENSION AT YOUR BUILDING WIDTH.
Slight dimples in tube should be
on the same side of structure

BRACING:
TYPE (1) COLLAR TIE, TYPE (2) COLLAR TIE WITH VERTICAL, TYPE (3) COLLAR TIE WITH
WEB BRACES
Bracing on buildings is determined by the width of
the building and the wind and snow load in your
county. 12’ wide buildings do not normally require a
truss brace. 20’ wide buildings may or may not re-
quire a brace. 24’ and 30’ wide buildings always
require a truss brace.
COLLAR TIE ASSEMBLY:
The Collar Tie (Type 1 brace) for a 12’ wide building, if required, is one piece 2” x 2” x 96” long.
All other Collar Ties are made up of 3 parts: (1) Center Tie 2” x 2” x 111” long swaged (reduced) on both ends and (2) end
ties. End Ties are 2” square tube. On 20’ wide buildings 50 1/2” long. On 24’ wide buildings 74 1/2” long. On 30’ wide build-
ings 111” long.
Assembly: Place an End Tie on both ends of the Center tie and fasten each joint with (6) #12 self-drilling screws. Place
screws on one side of the assembly as shown. Note: make sure the assembly is straight when you install screws.
Install a left and right Collar Tie Bracket on both ends as shown. Use one screw in each hole. For structures 30’W or larger,
Collar Tie Brackets will be provided for the front and back of each collar tie assembly.
ASSEMBLY OF COLLAR TIE TO ROOF/WALL FRAME:
The collar tie must be centered in the frame. Take a measurement from the end of the side post to the edge of the collar
tie bracket on both ends of the collar tie. Adjust the collar tie side to side until the measurements are equal. Fasten with
(6) self-drilling screws on each side of the assembly.
SCREW PATTERN
(BOTH SIDES)
CENTER TIE
END TIE
END TIE
COLLAR TIE
BRACKET LEFT &
RIGHT
LEFT COLLAR TIE BRACKET.
THE RIGHT BRACKET IS A
MIRROR OF THE LEFT.
#12 SELF-DRILLING SCREW
TYPE 1 TYPE 2 TYPE 3
COLLAR TIE COLLAR TIE WITH
VERTICAL BRACE COLLAR TIE WITH WEB BRACING
PAGE 7
EQUAL MEASUREMENT ON
BOTH ENDS OF COLLAR TIE

INSTALLING VERTICAL BRACE FOR BRACE TYPE (2)
The Center Vertical Brace is 1 1/2” square x 25 1/4” long on 20’ wide buildings, 31 1/4” long on 24’ wide, and 40 1/4”
long on 30’ wide. Fasten the brace to the Collar Tie and the Frame Peak with Single Purlin Brackets. Use two screws in
the bracket tongue and one screw in each side flange as shown. Fasten the brackets to the vertical brace first. Make sure
that the Collar Tie assembly is straight before you fasten the brace to the Collar Tie and Peak. Place all parts in the
assembly and adjust before installing any screws.
#12 SELF-DRILLING SCREW
ASSEMBLING WEB BRACING:
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE PEAK WEB BRACKET.
Measure up from both ends of the peak to find the center and make a mark. Place a Web Bracket centered at your mark
and pressed against the bottom of the peak. Fasten the Bracket to the peak with 3 self-drilling screws as shown in detail.
PEAK
WEB BRACE 1 WEB BRACE 2
WEB BRACE 3
BRACKET 1
BRACKET 1
PEAK
PEAK
BRACKET 2
BRACKET 3
STEP 2: INSTALL TWO OF WEB BRACE 1: (On 20’ wide building 36” long, On 24’ wide building 46” long and on 30’
wide building 60” long) Place one of the brace ends on top of the Web Bracket tab and the other brace end on the bottom
of the tab. Join the parts with a 3/8” x 1 1/4” hex bolt, lock washer and hex nut. Do not tighten at this time. It may be nec-
essary to lift the frame to insert bolt.
WEB BRACE LENGTH
WEB BRACE 1
PAGE 8
VERTICAL BRACE
SINGLE PURLIN
BRACKET

PEAK
WEB BRACKET 1
WEB BRACE 1 WEB BRACE 2
WEB BRACKET 2
WEB BRACKET 3
LOCATE BRACKET ON
COLLAR TIE.
INSERT ONE SCREW
HERE.
UNDO ASSEMBLY AND
INSTALL BRACE 3.
REINSTALL HARDWARE
STEP 3: INSTALL WEB BRACE 2: (On 20’ buildings 24”) (On 24’ buildings 30”) (On 30’ wide buildings 36”) Loosely
attach Web Bracket 2 to the other end of Web Brace 1. Place the Web Bracket on the Collar Tie (make sure the collar tie
is straight and fasten the face of the bracket to the collar tie with a self-drilling screw. Remove the hex nut and attach one
end of Web Brace 2 to the Web Bracket 2 assembly. ( like the first assembly, one brace end should be on one side of the
web bracket tab and one on the other.) Now, Loosely attach Web Bracket 3 to the other end of Web Brace 2 and fasten
the bracket to the under side of the rafter. Repeat assembly for remaining Web Brace 2.
STEP 4: ASSEMBLING WEB BRACE 3: WEB BRACE 3 IS 24” LONG ON ALL BUILDINGS.
Measure out 1” from the end of the Collar Tie and make a mark. This will be the location of the upper Web Bracket for
Web Brace 3. Attach the upper Web Bracket with 3 self-drilling screws. Now, fasten Web Brace 3 to the upper Web
Bracket with a hex bolt, lock washer and hex nut. (Do not tighten at this time)
Loosely attach a Web Bracket to the lower end of Web Brace 3 and place it against the side post. Re-check the building
dimension across the bottom of the frame 20’, 24’, or 30’ before attaching lower bracket to side post. Now, attach the
face to the side post with a screw, remove the hex nut, let the bolt drop down and install the two screws in the side of the
Web Bracket. Now, reinstall the bolt, lock washer and nut. Repeat assembly for remaining Web Brace 3 on the other side
of the frame.
WHEN ALL BRACES ARE IN PLACE, TIGHTEN ALL HARDWARE. The nut size is 9/16”. You may also need to hold the
bolt head with pliers.
1"
WEB BRACE 3
UPPER WEB BRACKET
COLLAR TIE
LOWER WEB BRACKET
INSTALL THIS SCREW FIRST IN FACE
INSTALL THIS SCREW FIRST IN FACE
SIDE POST
PAGE 9

STEP 4: INSTALLING ROOF/WALL FRAMES TO BASE RAILS
NOTE: This assembly will require at least two people. 24’ and 30’ frames may require more.
Start at one end of the building and place a Roof/Wall assembly, with no truss brace, on the first base rail vertical pins.
Fasten joints with two screws each. Keep the screw heads away from the outside of the building where sheet metal will
be installed.
Repeat this assembly until all Roof/Wall assemblies are installed. ( Remember, no Truss Braces at the ends of the
building)
#12 SELF-DRILLING SCREW
PAGE 10
Before you install back and front enclosures and purlins
and girts, you may want to check the Roof/Wall assemblies
to make sure they are plumb and square and that the
height of each side post is equal.
To do this, first check the front and back Roof/Wall sec-
tions to make sure that they are plumb. Check the outside
of the side post. If adjustments must be made, you can
drive a wooden or metal stake into the ground about 8’
from the building and use a Motor Cycle strap or Ratchet
strap to pull the side post into plumb. Place a clamp on the
side post as shown and attach the strap above the clamp.
When the front and back sections are plumb (side to side)
tie two strings from the front side post to the back side
post at the bottom and top of the bend radius as shown.
These strings will let you see which sections are high, low
or out of plumb. If the side posts are high or low, remove
the joint screws and raise the low posts and hammer down
the higher posts as much as possible. Reinstall the screws
in a new location. Check the height of the side posts on
both sides of the building. The straps should remain in
place until the roof purlins are installed.
Note: this is not a critical step, but it may improve the
appearance of your building. If side posts are out of plane
with the other side posts more than 1/4” it may be visible.
SQUARING UP YOUR FRAME
CLAMP
MOTOR CYCLE
STRAP
HAMMER
STRING
SIDE POST

STEP 5: INSTALLING BACK BASE RAILS
The Back Enclosure is the frame components that enclose the back of the building.
Layout the Base Rail components as shown in the illustration of your building size. Note that all back frame components
are 2” x 2” square tubing. See illustration below for length dimensions of base rail tubes.
The base rail assembly is made up of straight length 2” square tubes and T-Connectors. When you have all of the base
rail assembly together place the assembly between the back side base rails of the building. Fasten the end base rails to
the pins of the side base rails with Angle Brackets. The spaces between the vertical pins should be equal. (12’ wide build-
ing 68” space, 20’ wide building 57”, 24’ wide building 69” and 30’ wide building 69 1/4”.)
Fasten joints with two 1” self-drilling screws on top of the base rail.
Anchor the T-Connectors to the concrete slab or footing as you did the side base rails with 1/2” x 7” wedge anchors.
STEP 6: INSTALLING BACK VERTICALS
The Back Vertical is a 2” x 2” x 81 3/4” tube with one swaged (reduced) end. The Vertical Extensions are 2” square tubes.
The length is shown in the illustration below.
Join the Back Verticals and the appropriate Vertical Extensions. (do not install screws at this time) Place the
assemblies on the base rail pins, plumb the assembly, slide the extension tube up to touch the rafter or peak and attach it
with a Flat Bracket on the inside of the building. It may help to attach the flat bracket to the vertical extension before you
install the assembly. Let 2” of the bracket extend beyond the end of the extension.
T-CONNECTOR
T-CONNECTOR 3 PLACES
T-CONNECTOR 3 PLACES
T-CONNECTOR 4 PLACES
BACK VERTICAL
BACK VERTICAL
3 PLACES
BACK VERTICAL
4 PLACES
EXTENSION ON:
8’ HIGH—25 1/2”
10’ HIGH—49 1/2”
12’ HIGH—73 1/2” BACK VERTICAL
3 PLACES
EXTENSION ON:
8’ HIGH—23”
10’ HIGH—47”
12’ HIGH—71”
37” LONG
2 PLACES 47” LONG 2 PLACES
EXTENSION ON:
8’ HIGH—37 1/2”
10’ HIGH—61 1/2”
12’ HIGH—85 1/2”
57 3/4”
2 PLACES
49” LONG
2 PLACES 59” LONG 2 PLACES
EXTENSION ON:
8’ HIGH—43 1/2”
10’ HIGH—67 1/2”
12’ HIGH—91 1/2”
EXTENSION ON:
8’ HIGH—26”
10’ HIGH—50”
12’ HIGH—74”
59 1/8” LONG
2 PLACES
49 1/8” LONG
3 PLACES
EXTENSION ON:
8’ HIGH—26”
10’ HIGH—50”
12’ HIGH—74”
EXTENSION ON:
8’ HIGH—43 3/4”
10’ HIGH—67 3/4”
12’ HIGH—91 3/4”
FLAT BRACKET
TYPICAL ON ALL
BUILDINGS
(ON INSIDE OF
BUILDING)
30’ WIDE
24’ WIDE
12’ WIDE
20’ WIDE
#12 SELF-DRILLING SCREW
PAGE 11
TYPICAL

STEP 7: INSTALLING FRONT BASE RAILS AND VERTICALS
GARAGE DOORS: THE BASIC GARAGE BUILDING COMES WITH 1 GARAGE (OR OVERHEAD) DOOR OPENING.
24’ AND 30’ WIDE BUILDINGS CAN ALSO HAVE AN OPTIONAL DOUBLE DOOR OPENING.
DOOR SIZES: 12’ Wide-9’ Door, 20’ Wide-16’ Door, 24’ Wide-16’ or (2) 9’ Doors, 30 Wide-16’ or (2) 9’ Doors
Find the illustration that matches your building size and door style. Join the Base Rail tubes and (L) or (U) connectors as
shown. The Base Rails are all 2” square tubes. See illustration for tube length.
Measure and mark the location for the base rails and anchor the L & U connectors with expansion bolts as you did the
side base rails. NOTE: Leave the nuts slightly loose so you can install the vertical tubes. Attach the end base rails to the
side base rail pins with Angle brackets as you did on the back base rail ends after the vertical tubes are installed.
The door openings should be 9’ wide or 16’ wide.
Assemble the Door Vertical Tubes (see drawing for parts and location). Attach a Flat Bracket at the top as shown and
stack the vertical Door Jamb tubes on the L-Connectors or U-Connectors as shown. Plumb the Door Jambs and attach
the top portion of the assembly to the rafter or peak. Note that the Flat Bracket should be on the inside of the building. Be
sure to leave a space between the Door Jambs of 9’ or 16’ to install the door header.
Assemble the Door Header components as listed in the illustration and fasten them to the Door Jambs with Angle
Brackets on the top of the header. The basic garage door header height is 7’ you may have chosen to install a taller door.
Set the height at the bottom of your door header at 7’ or the height of your chosen door.
Now, install the vertical Header Brace in the center above the Door Header with 2 Angle Brackets at the bottom and a
Flat Bracket at the top on the inside of the building. The brace should be plumb. You may find it easier to attach the
brackets to the header brace on the ground (see detail). (NOTE: If you are installing a taller door than 7’ you will need to
cut the Vertical Header Brace to fit your door height.
7’ or
9’
VERTICAL (DOOR JAMB)
2” X 3” X 78 3/4”
(2 PLACES)
FLAT BRACKET
(3 PLACES)
L-CONNECTOR
(2 PLACES) BASE RAIL 2” X 2” X 6”
(2 PLACES)
ANGLE BRACKET
(6 PLACES)
HEADER TUBE WITH SWAGE
2” X 3” X 64 3/4”
VERTICAL HEADER BRACE
8’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 23 1/2”
10’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 47 1/2”
12’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 71 1/2”
DOOR HEADER
2” X 3” X 48”
VERTICAL (DOOR JAMB)
2” X 3” X 80”
(2 PLACES)
BASE RAIL 2” X 2” X 12”
(2 PLACES)
VERTICAL HEADER BRACE
8’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 35 1/2”
10’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 59 1/2”
12’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 83 1/2”
FLAT BRACKET
(3 PLACES)
DOOR HEADER
2” X 3” X 37”
HEADER TUBE WITH SWAGE
2” X 3” X 81 3/4”
(2 PLACES)
ANGLE BRACKET
(6 PLACES)
L-CONNECTOR
(2 PLACES)
7’ or
16’
20’ WIDE GARAGE
12’ WIDE
GARAGE
PAGE 12
HEADER BRACE
TO PEAK
BASE RAIL TO SIDE
BASE RAIL PIN
ON INSIDE OF
BUILDING
HEIGHT EXTENSION
2’ FOR 10’ HIGH GARAGE
2” X 3” X 28 3/4” (1) SWAGE
4’ FOR 12’ HIGH GARAGE
2” X 3” X 52 3/4” (1) SWAGE
NONE ON 8’ HIGH GARAGE
HEIGHT EXTENSION
2’ FOR 10’ HIGH GARAGE
2” X 3” X 28 3/4” (1) SWAGE
4’ FOR 12’ HIGH GARAGE
2” X 3” X 52 3/4” (1) SWAGE
NONE ON 8’ HIGH GARAGE
LEAVE NUT LOOSE
UNTIL VERTICALS
ARE INSTALLED
DOOR VERTICAL
ASSEMBLY
2”
SEE BUILDING DRAWING FOR
VERTICAL PART LOCATION
L-CONNECTOR & BASE
RAIL DETAIL. MOUNT U-
CONNECTORS THE SAME

INSTALLING FRONT ENCLOSURE CONTINUED
VERTICAL (DOOR JAMB)
2” X 3” X 86 1/4”
(2 PLACES)
FLAT BRACKET
(3 PLACES)
VERTICAL HEADER BRACE
8’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 41 1/2”
10’ EIGH 2” X 2” X 65 1/2”
12’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 89 1/2”
BASE RAIL 2” X 2” X 36”
(2 PLACES)
L-CONNECTOR
(2 PLACES)
7’ or
16’
DOOR HEADER
2” X 3” X 37”
ANGLE BRACKET
(6 PLACES)
HEADER BRACE
TO PEAK
BASE RAIL TO SIDE
BASE RAIL PIN ON INSIDE OF
BUILDING
ANGLE BRACKET
(10 PLACES)
L-CONNECTOR
(2 PLACES)
BASE RAIL 2” X 2” X 11 3/4”
(2 PLACES)
U-CONNECTOR
VERTICAL (DOOR JAMB)
2” X 3” X 80”
(2 PLACES)
VERTICAL (DOOR JAMB)
2” X 3” X 81 3/4” WITH
SWAGED (REDUCED) END
(2 PLACES)
VERTICAL (DOOR JAMB) EXTENSION
8’ GARAGE 2” X 3” X 30 3/4”
10’ GARAGE 2” X 3” X 54 3/4”
12’ GARAGE 2” X 3” X 78 3/4”
(2 PLACES) VERTICAL HEADER BRACE
8’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 25”
10’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 49”
12’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 73”
(2 PLACES)
7’ or
9’
DOOR HEADER
2” X 3” X 48”
1 ON EACH DOOR
FLAT BRACKET
(3 PLACES)
PAGE 13
24’ WIDE GARAGE
DOUBLE DOOR
24’ WIDE GARAGE
SINGLE DOOR
HEIGHT EXTENSION
2’ FOR 10’ HIGH GARAGE
2” X 3” X 28 3/4” (1) SWAGE
4’ FOR 12’ HIGH GARAGE
2” X 3” X 52 3/4” (1) SWAGE
NONE ON 8’ HIGH GARAGE
HEIGHT EXTENSION
2’ FOR 10’ HIGH GARAGE
2” X 3” X 28 3/4” (1) SWAGE
4’ FOR 12’ HIGH GARAGE
2” X 3” X 52 3/4” (1) SWAGE
NONE ON 8’ HIGH GARAGE
HEADER TUBE WITH
ONE END SWAGED
2” X 3” X 81 3/4”
HEADER TUBE WITH
ONE END SWAGED
2” X 3” X 64 3/4”
(1 ON EACH DOOR)

INSTALLING FRONT ENCLOSURE CONTINUED
VERTICAL (DOOR JAMB)
2” X 3” X 95”
(2 PLACES)
HEIGHT EXTENSION
2’ FOR 10’ HIGH GARAGE
2” X 3” X 28 3/4” (1) SWAGE
4’ FOR 12’ HIGH GARAGE
2” X 3” X 52 3/4” (1) SWAGE
NONE ON 8’ HIGH GARAGE
FLAT BRACKET
(3 PLACES)
VERTICAL HEADER BRACE
8’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 50 1/2”
10’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 74 1/2”
12’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 98 1/2”
HEADER TUBE WITH
ONE END SWAGED
2” X 3” X 81 3/4”
BASE RAIL 2” X 2” X 72”
(2 PLACES)
L-CONNECTOR
(2 PLACES)
7’ or
16’
DOOR HEADER
2” X 3” X 37”
ANGLE BRACKET
(6 PLACES)
HEADER BRACE
TO PEAK
BASE RAIL TO SIDE
BASE RAIL PIN ON INSIDE OF
BUILDING
ANGLE BRACKET
(10 PLACES)
L-CONNECTOR
(2 PLACES)
BASE RAIL 2” X 2” X 35 3/4”
(2 PLACES)
BASE RAIL
2” X 2” X 29 3/4
VERTICAL (DOOR JAMB)
2” X 3” X 86 1/4”
(2 PLACES)
VERTICAL (DOOR JAMB)
2” X 3” X 81 3/4” WITH
SWAGED (REDUCED) END
(2 PLACES)
VERTICAL (DOOR JAMB) EXTENSION
8’ GARAGE 2” X 3” X 36 5/8”
10’ GARAGE 2” X 3” X 60 5/8”
12’ GARAGE 2” X 3” X 84 5/8”
(2 PLACES) VERTICAL HEADER BRACE
8’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 31 1/4”
10’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 55 1/4”
12’ HIGH 2” X 2” X 79 1/4”
(2 PLACES)
7’ or
9’
HEADER TUBE WITH
ONE END SWAGED
2” X 3” X 64 3/4”
(1 ON EACH DOOR)
DOOR HEADER
2” X 3” X 48”
1 ON EACH DOOR
FLAT BRACKET
(3 PLACES)
PAGE 14
30’ WIDE GARAGE
DOUBLE DOOR
30’ WIDE GARAGE
SINGLE DOOR
HEIGHT EXTENSION
2’ FOR 10’ HIGH GARAGE
2” X 3” X 28 3/4” (1) SWAGE
4’ FOR 12’ HIGH GARAGE
2” X 3” X 52 3/4” (1) SWAGE
NONE ON 8’ HIGH GARAGE

STEP 8: ASSEMBLE SIDE WALK DOOR FRAME AND OPTIONAL WINDOW
FRAME
The Door Frame consists of a Header Tube 2” x 3” x 45 3/4” long (for 4’ OC) or 57 3/4” long (for 5’ OC) 69 3/4” (for 6’ OC)
and a Door Jamb 2” x 3” x 81 3/4”. These combine with the side post to create a 38” x 81 3/4” rough opening for your
door. Note: If your building is on a slab, the base rail can be cut out at the door opening to prevent a trip hazard.
If you will cut out the base rail use a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade. Measure your door frame and cut an
opening in the base rail 1/4” wider than the door frame width. Cut in the section of the base rail away from the anchor
hole location. If you cut out the base rail you will also need to cut the vertical door frame member down from 81 3/4” to
the height of your door frame minus 2”. The vertical should sit on top of the base rail.
Place your pre-hung door into the building frame, set the door header tube on top of the door frame and attach the
header tube to the frame on both sides with angle brackets and screws. Now, measure from the bottom of the door
header to the base rail and cut the 2” x 3” x 81 3/4” door vertical down to fit. Set the vertical in place against the side of
you door frame and attach it to the bottom of the header with an angle bracket at the bottom to the base rail with a flat
bracket on the inside of the building. Remove the door from the opening and install two vertical nailer tubes and one
header nailer tube using #14 x 2” self-drilling concealor screws (black screws with #2 square drive). The vertical nailers
are a 1 1/2” square tube 81 3/4” long with 5 holes and the header nailer is a 1 1/2” square x 42” tube with 2 holes. You
may have to cut the vertical nailers to fit.
PAGE 15
DOOR
WIDTH +
1/4”
DOOR FRAME
HEIGHT
DOOR HEADER
FLAT BRACKET ON
INSIDE OF BUILDING
ANGLE BRACKET
DOOR JAMB
THE TUBE SUPPLIED IS 2” X 3” X 81 3/4”.
IF YOU CUT OUT THE BASE RAIL THIS TUBE WILL
HAVE TO BE CUT DOWN TO YOUR DOOR FRAME
HEIGHT.
NOTE THE LOCATION OF THE ANCHOR BOLT. PLACE THE
DOOR OPENING TO THE SIDE WITHOUT A ANCHOR BOLT.
DO NOT PLACE THE DOOR IN THE FIRST SECTION OF
THE STARTER BASE RAIL WHICH HAS TWO ANCHOR
BOLTS BETWEEN SIDE POSTS. ANY OTHER LOCATION
CAN BE USED.
CUT OUT BASE RAIL TO DOOR WIDTH + 1/4”
VERTICAL NAILER
#13 X 2” PAN HEAD,
SELF-DRILLING SCREW
HEADER NAILER
TUBE

INSTALLING THE WALK DOOR
Pre-hung walk doors are typically attached to the frame with screws through the door jamb into the building frame on both
sides. Some doors are flange mounted on the face of the door frame to the building with pan head screws and some
doors are a combination of the two. Place your door in the opening with the front edge of the door flush or touching the
outside of the nailer tubes and attach the door to the frame according to door manufactures instructions. If you want to
use screws provides by the door manufacturer you will have to drill pilot holes in the frame for the screws. If the door is
flange mounted use #10 x 7/8” pan head self-drilling screws to attach the flange to the nailer tubes.
DOORS THAT ARE NOT FLANGE MOUNTED WILL
BE MOUNTED THROUGH THE SIDE JAMBS TO
THE FRAME SOME TIMES USING ONE OF THE
HINGE HOLES.
NON-FLANGE MOUNTED DOOR
FLANGE MOUNTED DOOR
USE PAN SCREWS THROUGH THE
FLANGE INTO THE VERTICAL NAILER
TUBES TO ATTACH A FLANGE MOUNTED
DOOR.
PAGE 16

Installing Nailer Tubes around optional window frame
The front face of the window frames must be framed out to be flush with the flat surfaces of the hat channel. This will be
accomplished by framing the window with 1 1/2” square nailer tubes. The horizontal nailer tubes for the top and bottom of
the window frame are 40” long with 3 mounting holes. The vertical nailer tubes for the sides of the frame are 60” long with
3 mounting holes. Vertical nailer tubes must be cut to required rough opening size.
Install the bottom tube first flush with the top of the bottom window frame tube and centered on the frame. Install the verti-
cal nailer tubes flush with the insides of the window frame and the top tube cantered and flush with the bottom of the top
window frame tube. See illustration. Use #13 x 2” pan head, self-drilling, square drive screws to fasten the nailer tubes to
the window frame.
TOP NAILER TUBE
1 1/2” SQ X 40” LONG
BOTTOM NAILER TUBE
1 1/2” SQ X 42” LONG
TOP WINDOW
FRAME TUBE
VERTICAL (SIDE) NAILER TUBE
1 1/2” SQ X 60” LONG OR CUT
TO WINDOW ROUGH OPENING
HEIGHT
SIDE WINDOW
FRAME TUBE
#13 X 2” PAN HEAD,
SELF-DRILLING SCREW
BOTTOM WINDOW
FRAME TUBE
42”
60” OR
ROUGH
OPENING
ANGLE BRACKET
HORIZONTAL
FRAME TUBE
2 x 3 x 45 3/4”
Or 57 3/4”
VERTICAL FRAME
TUBE 2 X 3 X 60” OR
CUT TO WINDOW
ROUGH OPENING
HEIGHT
HORIZONTAL
FRAME TUBE
OPTIONAL WINDOW FRAME
If you are installing an optional window frame,
Measure your window to determine the rough
opening that you will need. Cut the vertical
window frame tubes to the height of the rough
opening. Mount the lower horizontal window
frame tube to the side posts as shown at right
with angle brackets. The tube should be level.
Pre-mount angle brackets to the vertical frame
tubes. Center and properly space them on the
bottom tube to give you the correct rough opening
width. Fasten them in place. Now, install the top
horizontal frame tube with angle brackets. Square
and plumb the vertical tubes and attach them to
the top frame tube.
The window kit includes:
(2) horizontal frame tubes 2” x 3” x 45 3/4” for 4’
OC frames or 2” x 3” x 57 3/4” for 5’ OC
frames, and 2” x3” x 69 3/4” on 6’ OC frames.
(2) vertical frame tubes 2” x 3” x 60” that can be
cut to rough opening height
(2) horizontal nailer tubes 1 1/2” square x 42”
long with 3 holes
(2) vertical nailer tubes 1 1/2” square x 60” long
with 3 holes
(12) #13 x 2” pan head, self-drilling screws
(8) angle brackets with screws
PAGE 17

STEP 9: INSTALLING HAT CHANNEL ON ROOF AND SIDES OF BUILDING
The purlins on the roof and the girts on the sides of you building are Hat Channel. Most of the hat channel that you in-
stall will be 8’ long on buildings with frame sections on 4’ centers or 10’ long for buildings on 5’ centers and 12’ long on
buildings on 6’ centers..
See the chart below for the location and dimensions for the Hat Channel on the roof and sides of the building.
You can measure and locate each hat channel as you go or mark the locations of all the channels on the front and back
frame sections and snap a chalk line the length of the building to mark the hat channel locations on all of the interior
frame sections.
HAT CHANNEL
42 5/8”
1”
84 3/8”
36 3/4”
72 1/2”
108 3/8”
88 1/2”
132 1/4”
44 3/4”
1”
34 1/4”
34 1/4”
33 3/8”
36 3/8”
36 3/8”
36 3/8”
28 3/4”
28 3/4”
33 3/8”
33 3/8”
33 3/8”
34 1/4”
34 1/4”
34 1/4”
7 1/2”
7 1/2”
7 1/2”
PAGE 18
LOCATION OF HAT CHANNEL GIRTS ON THE SIDE OF THE BUILDING
LOCATION OF HAT CHANNEL PURLINS ON THE ROOF OF THE BUILDING
12’ WIDE 20’ WIDE 24’ WIDE 30’ WIDE
8’ EAVE 10’ EAVE
1”
12’ EAVE
7 1/2”

As you install hat channel the building frame will gain stiffness and strength. It is important that you check the frame
sections with your level for plumb as you install each hat channel. You may want to clamp a corner diagonal brace to the
frame at the front or back of the building on both sides to hold the first frame section square. Measure from the first frame
section to get the remaining sections plumb.
1. Install the first hat channel along the base rail starting on one side of the building at the corner. The bottom edge of the
channel should be located 1” up from the bottom of the base rail. The hat channel should start at the corner of the build-
ing, 1” from the corner or centered on the corner post. Fasten the channel to the frame with #12 self-drilling screws, one
in the top flange and one in the bottom flange at each vertical post.
PAGE 19
#12 SELF-
DRILLING SCREW
MID CHANNEL DETAIL
BASE RAIL
HAT CHANNEL
1”
CORNER DETAIL
1”
2. Continue Hat Channel down the length of the building using 8’ lengths for 4’ on center frames, 10’ lengths for 5’ on
center frames and 12’ lengths for 6’ on center frames. Butt the ends of the channels together and attach with screws as
shown below. Your building may be of a length that requires you to use a 4’, 5’ or 6’ Hat Channel at one end of the build-
ing. If so, 4’, 5’ or 6’ channels are provided.
All VersaTube buildings include framing for a Walk Door to be located on one side of the building. Follow the in-
structions for framing around a Walk door opening in step 4. If you installed optional window frames, see step 5 for fram-
ing around window kit.
Butt the ends of Hat Channels together,
centered on a vertical post and fasten
each hat channel end with 2 screws as
shown.
REMEMBER TO KEEP THE VERTICAL POSTS PLUMB AS YOU
ATTACH HAT CHANNELS.
3. Continue to install the remaining runs of hat channel on the sides of your building, referring to the chart on page 15 for
height location. The dimensions on the chart are from the bottom of the base rail to the bottom edge on the lower hat
channel flange.
You will need to see steps 4 and 5 when you come to a door or window opening.
STEP 9A: INSTALLING RAT TRACK HAT CHANNEL
Rat Track is additional Hat Channel Girts that are installed on top of the collar tie to assist with longitudinal strength. Rat
track will be included with all buildings 30’ Wide or larger. The rat track will start on the second frame and end on the second
to last frame. For 30’W, you will receive 3 runs of Hat Channel (40’W—4 runs; 50’W—5 runs, etc). Evenly space the hat
channel on your collar tie and attach with (2) #12 x 3/4” self-drilling screws per connection.

PAGE 20
4. Cutting hat channel girts around side wall walk door:
You can use a hack saw to cut the hat channel, but it will be easier if you use an abrasive disk or metal cutting blade in a
circular or miter saw to make the cuts. Remember to wear your eye protection and with power saws ear protection is
recommended.
Cut a piece of hat channel to go from the left side of the pre-hung door frame to the center of the next side post and one
to go from the right side of the pre-hung door frame to the center of the next side post on that side of the door. Cut addi-
tion pieces of hat channel as needed from 8’ or 10’ lengths to match up with the number of runs that intersect the door
opening on your height building. (2 runs on 8’ high buildings, and 3 runs on 10’ and 12’ high buildings. See layout for side
hat channel height locations on page 18.
CUT HAT CHANNEL TO FIT FROM
PRE-HUNG DOOR FRAME TO
CENTER OF POST ON BOTH
SIDES OF DOOR.
2 ON 8’ HIGH BUILDINGS AND 3
ON 10’ AND 12’ HIGH BUILDINGS.
#12 SELF-DRILLING SCREW
CUT HAT CHANNEL TO FIT FROM
PRE-HUNG DOOR FRAME TO
CENTER OF POST ON BOTH
SIDES OF DOOR.
2 ON 8’ HIGH BUILDINGS AND 3
ON 10’ AND 12’ HIGH BUILDINGS.