Waeco ADLER /BARBOUR SERIES Installation instructions

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WAECO USA • Clinton, CT • www.waecousa.com
Installation &
Operating Manual
›For ADLER/BARBOUR SERIES
ColdMachine™
SuperColdMachine™
It’s a perfect mate!

2 WAECO USA, Inc. Tel. [phone] • Fax. [phone] • www.waecousa.com Contents, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice.
IMPORTANT NOTICE
Before you proceed, please read this manual from cover to cover.
Failure to following instructions may void your warranty.
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Terminology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Unpacking Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Tools & Equipment Needed for Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Planning the Condensing Unit Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Ventilation Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Duct Kits and Power Duct Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Location Considerations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Mounting the Condensing Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Planning the Evaporator Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Evaporator Location Choices - Vertical Applications . . . . . . . .6
Optional Box Modifications & Combinations . . . . . . . . . . . .7–8
Horizontal Applications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Mounting the Evaporator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Refrigerant Couplings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10–12
Installing the Analog Thermostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Installing the Digital Thermostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Mounting the PowerPlate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Electrical Considerations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Water Cooled Optional Package/Installation . . . . . . . . . . .17
Battery Recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Wiring the System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Voltage Drops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Making the Power Connections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Wire Size and Wire Size Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Wiring Diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20–23
Operation of System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Start-Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
AC/DC Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Defrosting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Battery Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Winter Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Programming Digital Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
To Program Set Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
To Program Differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Electronic Module Protection System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Operational Errors Indicated by LED
on Condensing Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Troubleshooting Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27–29
Procedure for Removing Compressor Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Procedure for Removing Evaporator & Tubeset . . . . . . . . .30
Procedure for Removing PowerPlate & Tube Set . . . . . . . .30
Warranty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Return Policy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
ColdMachine™
SuperColdMachine™
This manual covers:
All air-cooled ColdMachine™ products and all air/
water-cooled SuperColdMachine™ products with:
• Standard aluminum “bin” shaped evaporators
• Custom formed “flat”, “L”, “U” shaped evaporators
• PowerPlate stainless steel holdover evaporators
• Analog type thermostatic controls (standard)
• Digital type thermostatic controls (optional)

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INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing your new ADLER/BARBOUR marine
refrigeration system. This manual will explain how to install the
system on your boat—in just a few hours—with ordinary tools.
NOTE: This system is charged with HFC134 a non-ozone depleting
refrigerant. Please refer to the TROUBLESHOOTING AND SERVICE
SECTION of this manual for more details.
VARIABLE CAPACITY COMPRESSOR WITH LOAD MATCHING
Commnecing February 2000, all ADLER/BARBOUR products are
equipped with the most advanced DC compressor ever—the
Danfoss BD50F. Its wider performance range enables us to
precisely match the compressor speed and capacity to the job it
must do, while still keeping power consumption to a minimum.
This means:
For the largest refrigerators, and for all freezer applications,
the compressor operates at maximum 3500 RPM, producing
approximately 25% higher performance than previous BD35F
compressor.
For mid-sized refrigerators, and for most freezer applications,
the compressor operates at 3000 RPM, with about 15% higher
performance than previous models.
For smaller refrigerator applications using our VD-150 and
VD-151 systems, the compressor will operate at 2500 RPM—still
delivering slightly higher performance than previously.
For every application, the BD50F-based ADLER/BARBOUR
products deliver top efficiency with minimal power consumption.
TERMINOLOGY
Below are terms and definitions that will be used throughout this
manual:
CONDENSING UNIT:
The stainless steel base plate mounted compressor,
electronic control module, electrical housing and terminal block,
refrigerant couplings, air-cooled condenser and shroud (the
condensing unit comes precharged with R134a refrigerant).
Condensing units may be:
• ColdMachine™ (air-cooled only)
• SuperColdMachine™ (air/water-cooled)
EVAPORATOR:
Also referred to as “the freezer”, this is the formed
aluminum “bin” (or custom-formed “L”, “U”, or “flat”) with
connecting tubeset and couplings (also precharged with R134a
refrigerant). Mounts inside the space to be refrigerated.
PowerPlate:
The flat, stainless steel, holdover plate-type evaporator
(precharged with R134a refrigerant). Mounts inside the space to
be refrigerated.
Tubeset:
The copper refrigerant tubing and couplings, also precharged with
R134a refrigerant. Tubesets may come attached (evaporators) or
separate (PowerPlates).
Thermostatic Control (T’stat):
May be analog (knob) type or digital (LED display) type.
Cabinet, Box, Icebox, Compartment:
The insulated space that will be converted into a mechanical
refrigerator, freezer, or combination refrigerator/freezer.
LED:
Light Emitting Diode. Mounted in the junction box, used for
diagnostics.
Electronic Module:
The housing attached to the compressor provides complete digital
system management.
Junction Box:
The stainless steel housing with terminal block, LED, t’stat harness
socket, fuses and relay.
ColdMachine™:
The term “ColdMachine” is used throughout this manual when
referring to the condensing unit (whether air cooled only of
air/water cooled).

4 WAECO USA, Inc. Tel. [phone] • Fax. [phone] • www.waecousa.com Contents, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice.
UNPACKING THE EQUIPMENT
When unpacking the unit, carefully check for shipping
damage and identify all listed items to ensure that all
components have been received and that no in-transit
damage has occurred. File claims for loss or damage directly with
the carrier. If the system was purchased through a
dealer, please contact the dealer directly.
All ADLER/BARBOUR refrigeration systems include the following:
• Condensing unit
• Evaporator assembly (
either aluminum with integral tube set
or PowerPlate with separate tube set)
• Ice cube trays, vertical or horizontal to suit: 2 for small
evaporators, 3 for large evaporators (trays are not
included with PowerPlate systems)
•Separator to retain ice cube trays (vertical style only)
• Thermostatic control ( either digital with wire harness or
analog (knob type) with wire harness)
•Installation / small parts package
• Template for evaporator mounting hole locations (except
PowerPlate systems)
• Soft-sealing
removable mastic putty (“Mortite”) for tubing exit
hole through box (never use the durable marine type)
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION
• Electric drill with assorted small bits including 9/64”
• Stubby Phillips screwdriver
• Hole saw 1-1/2” diameter
•Wrench, open end type, 5/8”
• Wrench, open end type, 13/16”
• Wrench, open end type for powerplate, 3/4”
• Electrical wire, 2 conductor, marine type tinned flexible copper
stranded (see Wire Size Table in this manual)
*Alternatively, two (2) adjustable wrenches, 10” size
PLANNING THE
CONDENSING UNIT INSTALLATION
Please keep the following points in mind when planning the
installation.
GENERAL
• The connecting refrigerant tube set between the condensing
unit and the freezer is 15’ long (12.5’ for PowerPlate). Plan
the location of the two units accordingly.
• The route of the refrigerant tube set through the boat from
the condensing unit to the icebox must be determined before
starting any work. The tube set must be kept clear of any
bilge water and protected from the chafe and damage.
• Ventilation openings or ventilation duct options will be
required if the compressor unit is located in a small, confined
compartment.
Re-circulating the same is unacceptable.
• Engine room location for the air condensing unit is okay if the
continuous environment is not over 100°F, but performance
will be much improved is a Duct Kit or Power Duct Kit is
installed to provide inlet air at under 90°F.
A cooler
location = less running time = lower amperage draw.
• Accessibility is an important consideration.
• All components must be protected from bilge water, s
pray or possible physical damage.
VENTILATION REQUIREMENTS
The ColdMachine is a device that moves heat from one place to
another. It does not “create cold.” The heat removed from your
icebox by way of the evaporator is transferred to the air around
the condensing unit. If you locate the condensing unit in a small,
hot or confined enclosure, it will suffocate. Its built-in fan will
have to re-circulate hotter air. It will run continuously, draw
excess amps and not cool efficiently. It will never shut off and its
performance will be unacceptable.
Let the unit breathe! Position the condensing unit so that its fan
can intake air from one space and discharge it to another. Do not
re-circulate the same air unless the compartment in which you
mount the unit is 100 cubic feet or larger in volume,
unobstructed, and mostly below the waterline.

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DUCT KITS AND POWERDUCT KITS
To achieve cool airflow through your ColdMachine, we offer four
different packages to improve ventilation:
FOR THE COLDMACHINE:
Part # C8079
Ventilation Duct Kit with adapter shroud, 3 ft. of 4” flex duct, 1
adapter flange and trim grille. Attaches to the condensing unit
with four screws. Can be used in two ways:
(1) To bring air to the unit from a cooler location—bilge, yacht
accommodation, cool ventilated locker, etc., or
(2) The condensing unit’s fan can be physically reversed and the
duct kit can be used to extract air from the unit and discharge
it into another space. This is preferred if the location has cool
air available, but has no way to get rid of the warmer air after
it has passed through the condensing unit.
Part # C8075
Power Duct Booster Duct Kit—as above, with 5 feet of 4” flex
duct, 3 adapter flanges and additional booster fan. Used exactly
like above, plus the longer length and push-pull fans” allow you
to go to a greater distance through the boat to pick up cool air or
get rid of heated air.
FOR THE SUPERCOLDMACHINE:
Part # C8070
Ventilation Duct Kit with 3 ft of flex duct, 1 adapter flange and
trim grille. Attaches to the SuperColdMachine condensing unit
with 4 existing fan mount screws. Can be used in 2 ways:
(1) To bring air to the unit from a cooler location—bilge, yacht
accommodation, cool ventilated locker, etc.,
or
(2) The condensing unit’s fan can be physically reversed and the
duct kit can be used to extract air from the unit and discharge
it into another space. This is preferred if the location has cool
air available, but has no way to get rid of the warmer air after
it has passed through the condensing unit.
Part # C8071
Power Duct Booster Duct Kit—as above, with 5 feet of 4” flex
duct, 3 adapter flanges and additional booster fan. Used exactly
like above, plus the longer length and push-pull fans” allow you
to go to a greater distance through the boat to pick up cool air or
get rid of heated air.
LOCATION CONSIDERATIONS
IMPORTANT: Find the coolest possible location in the largest
compartment available. However, many other locations are
acceptable provided the appropriate ventilation duct kit is
installed (see below).
ENGINE COMPARTMENT
DUCT KIT OR POWER DUCT KIT MANDATORY.
Mount the condensing unit as far as possible from the engine,
particularly the hot exhaust pipe sections. Route the connecting
tubing from the evaporator away from the hot spots such as the
engine, manifold or hot water pipes. If the tubing must be run
close enough to local hot spots to become noticeably heated,
protect it with insulated sponge tubing (“Armaflex” or similar,
available from home improvement outlets).
IMPORTANT: The condensing unit must be mounted
horizontally, base down. NO EXCEPTIONS. It will tolerate up to
30° off-level but must not be mounted off-level initially.
SAIL BIN, LARGE LAZARETTE, OR ANY CLOSED COMPARTMENT
Generally adequate without ducting, if there is 100 cubic feet of
volume and half of the outside surfaces are below the waterline
for heat dissipation. In such a case, heat will transfer outside the
compartment via conduction. Be sure that airflow into and out of
the condenser is not obstructed by sail bags, lines, etc. Position
the unit so that it can still move air freely despite an occasionally
sail bag or two dropped nearby.
If above conditions cannot be met or if compartment air
temperature exceeds 100°F, you MUST install a duct kit.
UNDER A SETTEE, GALLEY COUNTER, BERTH OR LOCKER (or any
space under 100 cubic feet)
Position the unit so that it can positively draw air from one space
and discharge it into another. Simply cutting holes or grilles into
the space will not accomplish this.
The best results are archived by cutting a rectangular opening in
the bulkhead equal to the size of the condenser (8” x 8”). Mount
the unit with its condenser against the opening for air intake.
Provide another opening of at least equal size at the other end
(or either side) of the unit so that warm air can exhaust. Small
slots or air holes generally are not satisfactory. One big opening
is much better. However, if visible finished joinery must be cut
into, plan to use teak louvered grilles (available in many stock
sizes from teak woodwork and marine hardware catalogs).
Increase the size of the outlet opening by at least 1/3 (ie: to
about 100 square inches or more) to compensate for the teak
louver obstruction.

6 WAECO USA, Inc. Tel. [phone] • Fax. [phone] • www.waecousa.com Contents, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice.
MOUNTING THE CONDENSING UNIT
MOUNTING
CAUTION: UNIT MUST BE MOUNTED HORIZONTALLY, BASE DOWN.
Handle the condensing unit carefully. Do not pick it up by the
tubing. The cooling fins on the condenser (the radiator-like
object) are very thin for maximum efficiency and bend easily. If
bent, they should be straightened using the flat blade of a
screwdriver or “combed” (using a “fin comb” obtainable at a
refrigeration supply house).
Use four (owner-supplied) fasteners to mount the unit on a
suitable, sturdy HORIZONTAL platform. Use 1/4” diameter wood
screws, self-tapping screws or machine screws and nuts,
depending on the type of mounting platform. There are mounting
holes in each of the four corners of the condensing unit base for
this purpose.
Bulkhead Mounting Bracket
If this optional part was ordered, it must be bolted through the
bulkhead selected, not screwed to it. Use 1/4” or 5/16”
diameter bolts with large flat washer or backup plate on other
side. The system is supplied with 4 oversized flat washers. These
must be used on the wood or fiberglass bulkhead side—to
distribute the bolt loading to the bracket properly.
NOTE: The bracket may seem too light and flexible before it is
mounted. Once bolted securely to the bulkhead, then use
supplied bolts to secure the condensing unit base, it becomes
stabilized and very rigid.
PLANNING THE
EVAPORATOR INSTALLATION
EVAPORATOR LOCATION CHOICES
Vertical Applications
Locate the evaporator vertically, as high as possible on any side-
wall in the icebox. Template, standoffs (1”) and mounting screws
(1-3/4”) are supplied.
Allow sufficient space for access to the freezer interior, insertion
and removal of the VertiCube™ ice trays and periodic cleaning.
OPTIONAL BOX MODIFICATIONS AND COMBINATIONS
Freezer/Refrigerators—up to 9 cubic feet total:
In many applications, the Adler/Barbour system has substantial
surplus capacity beyond that needed for a refrigerator-only.
Therefore, it is often practical to partition the box into two
sections if a larger freezer capacity than provided by the
evaporator unit itself is desired. The amount of volume allotted to
each section will depend on the individual needs and is subject
to the system’s capacity.
A large size evaporator system (VD-152 or VD-153) is best.
The small size evaporator systems (VD-150 or VD-151) will
generally work only if the total box volume is under 6 cubic
feet.
Small Vertical
Evaporator
BASIC REFRIGERATOR UP TO 9 CUBIC FEET
Small vertical evaporator mounted in typical top opening box smaller
than 9 cubic feet.
Small Evaporator:
10”L x 6”W x 11”H
Large Evaporator:
15”L x 6”W x 12”H

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Some experimentation may be necessary before the location of
the partition is finalized. A minimum of 4” of rigid polyurethane
foam insulation is mandatory on all box surfaces for this
application. Please do not attempt it with less.
In boxes up to 8
or 9 cubic feet, it is generally possible to obtain 2-3 cubic feet of
below-freezing space by creating a suitable partition.
For the partition, use a sheet of 2” rigid polyurethane foam core
with fiberglass or Formica faces, tightly fitted and sealed airtight
to the box sides and bottom. The necessary materials should be
available locally (home improvement outlets) and are relatively
easy to work with.
For cool air feed to the refrigerator side, drill a 3” diameter hole
halfway up the partition and leave about a 1” gap at the top. This
will allow for natural convection airflow from the freezer to the
refrigerator section.
You may need to install a manual damper over the hole to better
control individual compartment temperatures. This can be a
simple disc with a single pivot screw. As an alternative, you can
use the Adler/Barbour self-powered, thermostatically controlled
Automatic Shutter (Part #D7230). Use one automatic shutter for
each four cubic feet of refrigerator space. For the shutter, cut a
slot 1-1/8” high x 4” wide instead of a 3” hole.
For side door refrigerators, a Spillover Fan Kit #C7210 is
preferred—please see the following section.
Large Vertical
Evaporator
Optional: Owner installed 2” foamcore
insulated partition.
3” diameter adjustable opening in middle of
partition for cold air to refrigerator. Provide
a 10 sq. in. opening at top for air return.
Alternative location
for evaporator
Large Refrigeration or Combination Box—9–15 cubic feet total
OPTIONS:
• “All Refrigerator” without optional partition: provides ample
capacity for 3 ice trays (which are standard) and frozen food, or
9 ice trays only and no frozen food.
• “Divided Refrigerator-Freezer” with customer-installed partition:
provides additional freezer capacity (up to approximately 3
cubic feet). Minimum 4” of insulation is mandatory, all surface
including lids and countertops.

8 WAECO USA, Inc. Tel. [phone] • Fax. [phone] • www.waecousa.com Contents, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice.
Top opening refrigerator/freezer using
one or two #D7230 automatic shutters
(one shutter for each 4 cubic foot of
refrigerator volume)
SEPARATE REFRIGERATOR AND FREEZER USING TWO (2)
INDEPENDENT ColdMachine™ SYSTEMS
Use this arrangement for a single, large, fully partitioned box or
for two separate boxes in different locations.
FREEZER:
The large evaporator is used for freezer applications up to 6 cubic
feet with box insulation 4” or better, 8 cubic feet with insulation
of 6” or better.
REFRIGERATOR:
The standard small vertical or small horizontal evaporator is used
for refrigerators up to 9 cubic feet. The large evaporator is used
for refrigerators up to 9—15 cubic feet.
Side door refrigerator and top opening
freezer using #C7210 spillover fan with
thermostatic control.
REFRIGERATOR
with small vertical
evaporator
FREEZER
with large vertical
evaporator
OPTIONAL CUSTOM
FORMED EVAPORATOR
contact factory for
more information
HORIZONTAL APPLICATIONS:
Mount the evaporator unit horizontally from the roof of
the icebox. Standoffs (1”) and mounting screws (1-3/4”)
are supplied. Allow clearance for the freezer door to swing open.

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MOUNTING THE EVAPORATOR
Plan the installation to allow for minimum modification of
existing shelving.
1. Using the paper template supplied, mark the location of the
four mounting holes.
2. Position the refrigerant tube exit hole in the icebox for
minimum bending and strain on the evaporator and tube set.
Mark its location (1-1/2” diameter).
3. Drill the mounting holes using a 9/64” drill and the tube set
exit hole using a 1-1/2” hole saw.
4. Unroll the entire tube set. An assistant is very helpful here.
It is often easier to unroll the entire tube set and stretch it
outside the boat. Feed the tube set and couplings through
the holes in the icebox and bulkheads while an assistant
supports the freezer unit and keeps the tubing feeding
smoothly without damaging it. Be careful not to kink,
flatten or strain joints. Make sure the plastic caps are in
place over the refrigerant couplings. Keep dirt out of the
couplings.
5. Feed the tube set through the boat to the compressor unit.
Do not attempt to connect the mating couplings or remove
the plastic caps yet.
6. Fasten the freezer unit to the icebox liner with 1-3/4”
stainless steel screws and 1” plastic standoffs supplied.
7. Position the rubber insulation sleeve on the tube set so that
its end is flush with the
inside of the liner of the icebox with
the balance extending outside.
8. Form excess tubing, if any, into an 18” (approx)
diameter coil in the horizontal plane above the
compressor unit or at any other convenient location.
9. As shown below, seal the icebox hole using the mastic
sealant (“Mortite”) supplied.
OUTSIDE OF BOX
SEALING HOLE
IN ICEBOX
REFRIGERANT
COUPLINGS
INSIDE OF BOX
Insulation
Inside of Icebox
Mastic Sealant
Tubing
Fill space with
scrap Insulation
Male Couplings Female Couplings
Rubber sleeve

ALL-METAL PIERCING TYPE COUPLINGS
Once connected, the All-Metal Piercing Type Couplings on this
system cannot be disconnected without total loss of the
refrigerant charge.
DESIGN ADVANTAGES:
NO LEAKS: Couplings cannot leak prior to connection because
both halves are sealed shut by brazed all-metal diaphragms.
MIX & MATCH: Each half of your system is precisely charged with
refrigerant at the factory. After coupling together, the completed
system will have the correct total charge.
RESULT: Any Adler/Barbour VD-150 series aluminum evaporator,
VD-160 PowerPlate, or VD-170 series blower evaporator can be
connected to any CU-100 ColdMachine™ or CU-200
SuperColdMachine™ condensing unit.
NOTE: Our 50 Series and 80 Series products each have their own
“families” of charge-balanced evaporators. They are not
interchangeable with each other or with the ColdMachine™
evaporator family. Nor can a 50 Series or 80 Series condensing
unit be used to replace a ColdMachine™ CU-100 or CU-200
condensing unit by coupling it to a ColdMachine™ Series VD-150,
VD-160, VD-170 evaporator.
TOOLS FOR THE ALL-METAL PIERCING TYPE COUPLINGS:
• Use a 5/8” wrench for the male coupling
• Use a 13/16” wrench for the female coupling
• Tighten both couplings to 12–14 ft / lbs.
(16.3 to 19.1 newton/meters)
TOOLS FOR THE TUBE SET CONNECTION TO POWERPLATE:
• Use a 5/8” wrench for the male coupling. Do not loosen the
coupling from its brazed-on base.
• Use a 3/4” wrench for the female coupling. Do not loosen the
coupling from its brazed-on base.
• Tighten both couplings to 12–15 ft / lbs.
(16.3 to 20.3 newton/meters)
BEFORE CONNECTING
Secure tubing and wiring to protect from chafe and vibration.
• Coil the excess tubing and the thermostat wiring
harness in an 18” to 24” diameter coil and secure
preferably in a horizontal orientation.
• Support the refrigerant tube set and the wire harness using
clamps and/or plastic wire ties (4 supplied).
• Keep the tube set and harness out of bilge water and protected
from chafe and vibration.
• The tubing must not be allowed to vibrate or chafe.
• Seal the exit hole in the icebox wall using the supplied
mastic.
ALL-METAL PIERCING TYPE REFRIGERANT
COUPLINGS AS USED ON
ADLER/BARBOUR SYSTEMS COMMENCING
JANUARY 2001
DESIGN & OPERATION
A complete 5780 series coupling consists of the combination of
male and female coupling halves. You have the option of
choosing either coupling half with or without a charging port,
depending on your particular application.
COUPLING HALVES BEFORE CONNECTION
Diaphragms in the coupling halves provide a seal that prevents
refrigerant loss before connection. The male half (right unit)
contains a cutter blade, the metal refrigerant sealing diaphragm
and intermediate synthetic rubber seal which prevents loss of
refrigerant while the coupling is being connected. The female half
(left unit) contains a metal diaphragm, which is leakproof metal
closure.
COUPLING HALVES CONNECTED
Tightening the union nut draws the coupling halves together,
piercing and folding both metal diaphragms back and opening
the fluid passages, thereby providing minimal restriction to flow.
When fully coupled, a parent metal seal forms a permanent
leakproof joint between the two coupling halves preventing the
loss of refrigerant to the atmosphere.
Diaphragms Cutter
Parent
Metal Seal Intermediate Seal
COUPLING HALVES BEFORE CONNECTION
COUPLING HALVES CONNECTED
10 WAECO USA, Inc. Tel. [phone] • Fax. [phone] • www.waecousa.com Contents, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice.

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The three illustrations below show you a cutaway view
of the male and female coupling halves being joined at
20%, 50% and 100% connection.
NOTE the way the cutter blades pierce the diaphragms
and fold them back out of the flow path. Also note the
difference in the final sealing area before and after
torquing.
20% Connected 50% Connected
Final Sealing Area
connected
after
torquing
Final Sealing Area
connected
prior to
torquing
100% Connected

12 WAECO USA, Inc. Tel. [phone] • Fax. [phone] • www.waecousa.com Contents, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice.
STEP-BY-STEP:
ASSEMBLING THE ONESHOT COUPLINGS
COUPLINGS MUST BE IMMACULATELY CLEAN
—Leaving plastic caps and plugs in place, carefully wipe off
the fittings to remove dirt, dust and moisture. Now remove the
plastic caps from the refrigerant couplings on the compressor
unit, and from the mating refrigerant couplings at the end of
the tube set. Don’t touch the brass hex dome nuts on the
side ports of the evaporator couplings! They are there for
possible future servicing only.
CONNECT THE LOWER REFRIGERANT COUPLING FIRST
— Thread the coupling halves together by hand to ensure proper
mating of the threads. When screwing the male and female
halves together, align them carefully to avoid strain and cross
threading. If you have difficulty aligning the coupling halves
properly, it may be necessary to temporarily shift the
compressor unit for better alignment.
TURN ONLY THE FREE-TURNING PART OF THE FEMALE
COUPLING
— Do not try to turn the male coupling. Just hold it with your 5/8”
wrench.
If the male coupling is twisted from its copper tubing,
there will be a refrigerant leak (that is why 2 wrenches must
be used).
— Using the 5/8” wrench on the male coupling body hex and the
13/16” wrench on the female coupling (holding the male
coupling hex stationary), tighten (CW/Clockwise) the female
until the coupling halves bottom out and strong resistance is
felt. THIS WILL REQUIRE ABOUT 6 FULL TURNS.
— Work rapidly to minimize any possible escape of refrigerant
past the temporary rubber O-ring seal (it is inside the male
coupling). Occasionally there may be a slight “hiss” and/or a
drop or two of refrigerant oil when making these connections.
Don’t stop if this happens—just continue until the couplings
feel very tight. The final seal is metal-to-metal).
FINAL TIGHTENING
— This step must be performed correctly or a permanent
leak-proof joint will not be achieved.
— Using a marker pen, draw a line from the male coupling body
to and over the female coupling as a reference. Tighten the
female coupling one more 1/4 turn while holding the male
coupling hex stationary. This 1/4 turn is essential to ensure
that the final metal-to-metal seal is completed, forming a
permanently leak-proof joint.
FINAL TORQUE
Coupling Torque required: 12 to 14 foot pounds (16.3 to 19.1
newton / meters). Imagine a 14 pound weight at the end of a
one-foot wrench)
EXCEPT for the small PowerPlate-to-tube set
couplings which require 10–15 ft lbs. See the PowerPlate section
in your manual .
If your final 1/4 turn did not require this much torque, your
couplings are still loose. TO REPEAT: The 1/4 turn starts after
the couplings are already very tight.
Now connect the upper set of couplings.
— Same procedure except: the male coupling is held securely by
its support bracket, so you do not have to use 2 wrenches.
— Save the plastic caps in the event the unit ever needs to be
uninstalled and returned for service.

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INSTALLING THE ANALOG (KNOB TYPE) THERMOSTAT
Mount the thermostatic control unit high in the icebox, away from
moisture and spillage. It should also be visible and accessible. It
is acceptable to mount the thermostatic control unit outside of
the icebox space if you prefer. At least 12” of capillary sensing
tube must be inside the box.
The capillary sensing tube is 36” long and must reach from the
thermostatic control unit to the clamping plate on the side of the
freezer unit. It must be routed along the icebox wall—clear of
food, shelving, etc.
The thermostat can be mounted by using either the adhesive
backing on the thermostat mounting flanges or the stainless steel
mounting screws (supplied).
If using the adhesive backing, the mounting area must be clean
and dry. Peel off the protective backing from the adhesive foam
on both mounting flanges of the thermostatic control unit,
position carefully and press firmly to adhere.
We recommend that you also use the mounting screws by drilling
two 9/64” holes through the thermostat flange holes.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE (see drawing below).
1. Carefully unroll just enough capillary tubing to reach the
metal and plastic clamp plates on the side of the freezer unit.
Via this tube, the thermostatic control unit “senses” the
temperature of the freezer unit. Bend the last 2 inches back
into a “J” shape. Slide the “J” shaped end between the metal
and plastic plates and fasten the screws firmly. Be sure that
four inches of tubing are clamped under the metal plate or
the thermostatic control unit will not function properly.
2. Secure the coil and tube against chafing. (Leave the excess
capillary tubing coiled). The tube must not touch the freezer
unit at any point except the clamp plates or an erratic control
cycle will result.
3. Uncoil the 21 foot electrical harness from the thermostat and
run it alongside the refrigerant tube set to the condensing
unit phone jack. Plug this harness into its mating receptacle
on the face of the junction box.
VertiCube™ Ice Cube Trays
Thermostatic Control
Plastic Plate
Metal Plate
FORMING & ATTACHING THE THERMOSTAT
SENSING TUBE TO THE EVAPORATOR
The sensing tube from the thermostat must
be formed into a 2-1/2” “J” and clamped
between the plastic plate and metal plate
Evaporator
USING THE
ICE TRAY SEPARATOR
The separator keeps the ice
cube trays in firm contact with
the cold evaporator.

14 WAECO USA, Inc. Tel. [phone] • Fax. [phone] • www.waecousa.com
INSTALLING THE DIGITAL THERMOSTAT
(if supplied)
This optional control has several advanced features,
including:
• Touch-pad status indicator for cut-out,
cut-in temperatures
• LED relay status indicator
• Temperature setpoint display
• Programmable setpoint and differential
• Large (.56”) red LED display
Installing this control is fast and simple. When plan-
ning the control location, keep in mind that the sens-
ing bulb wire is 10 feet long.
MOUNTING THE CONTROL HEAD
1. Make the cutout for the control 3.1” x 1.35”
(79mm x 34mm)
2. Snap the control head through the mount
faceplate.
3. Mount the faceplate using the four black screws
provided.
MOUNTING THE TEMPERATURE SENSING
BULB
1. Run the sensing bulb and wire into the refrigerated
box to be controlled. Mount the sensing bulb on a
box side wall midway between top and bottom,
using the two nylon clamps and screws provided.
(NOTE: This is an air-sensing bulb, and is not
clamped to the evaporator.)
2. Keep the bulb as far away as possible from the
evaporator (approximately 2 feet away) and out
of the direct airflow if a spillover fan kit is
installed.
3. Secure the excess wire to protect it from chafe and
damage.
CONNECT THE CONTROL HEAD
TO THE CONDENSING UNIT
1. The digital control has a pre-wired power and
signal cable, terminating in a male 4-pin phone
plug. This plug mates with the phone jack (socket)
located on the face of the electrical box on the
condensing unit and marked “T” STAT CONNECTION.
Cut Out
Dimensions
3.1”
1.35”
Evaporator
Wall opposite
evaporator unit

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MOUNTING THE POWERPLATE
1. Plan the installation to position the PowerPlate in the
preferred orientation: on a vertical wall of the refriger-
ator (or freezer) cabinet with the label on top. In this
position, the PowerPlate will perform at maximum
efficiency. If this is not possible, it may be installed in
any spatial orientation; but a small reduction of
efficiency may result.
2. Position the PowerPlate high in the compartment—
within 2 inches of the top for best results.
3. Be sure to leave room for mating and tightening the
couplings that connect the PowerPlate to the tube set.
4. Mark and drill four (4) mounting holes using a 9/64”
drill and a tube exit hole using a 1-1/2” hole saw.
5. Be sure to use the supplied four (4) plastic spacers to
ensure that the PowerPlate is spaced away from the
cabinet wall to permit air circulation behind it for best
efficiency. Do not mount the PowerPlate flush against
the wall as a major loss of performance will result.
POWER PLATE TUBE SET
Drill a 1-1/2” diameter hole through the cabinet wall for
the tube set. Unroll the tube set. Feed the end with the
couplings into the box. Do not remove the protective caps
yet.
Position the insulating sleeving OUTSIDE
(not inside) the
refrigerated space. The end of the sleeve should butt
against the outside wall of the box (you will be sealing
this joint later with mastic putty included in your kit.)
Route the service port coupling ends of the tube set
through the boat to the condensing unit. Do not remove
the protective caps yet.
Before you connect the refrigerant couplings to the
power plate, refer back to the section entitled
“Refrigerant Couplings” for additional information. Have
the required 5/8 and 3/4 wrenches at hand now. Do not
allow any dirt, sawdust, foam insulation dust, etc., to get
into couplings ends as this will seriously damage the
system.
These couplings are different from the couplings that join
the tube set to the condensing unit. The small couplings
are screwed, o-ringed, and
LocTite -sealed to the bases
that are in-turn soldered to the copper tubes. Therefore,
it is most important that you do not unscrew the small
couplings from their bases. Put your wrenches on the
coupling bodies only!
SMALL COUPLING TORQUE REQUIRED
12–15 foot pounds (less than the large couplings)
CONNECTING THE PLATE COUPLINGS (from tube set to
PowerPlate)
1. Remove the protective caps of one mating pair of the
couplings inside the box (start with
either pair). Screw the
couplings halves together until they bottom metal-to-metal
with very firm pressure (about 4 turns) using two wrenches:
5/8” and 3/4”.
2. Mark the coupling halves. Using your two wrenches (do not
use pliers, visegrips, etc) tighten couplings an additional one
flat (1/6 turn). This should require considerable wrench
torque. If it did not, you did not “bottom” the couplings first.
3. Repeat the above for the other pair of coupling halves.
IMPORTANT: Save all coupling protective caps. Put them in a
marked container and keep aboard. If a future service procedure
requires that any coupling pair be disconnected, these caps must
be re-installed immediately to keep out dirt.
To connect the couplings to condensing unit, please refer to
section entitled “Refrigerant Couplings.” After completing this
section, seal the black rubber insulating sleeve to the outside of
the refrigerated box airtight, using
Mortite or other (removable-
type) caulking sealant. All three (3) feet of sleeve must be
outside the box. This sleeve may butt against the outer wall or
the inner liner.
Excess tubing: Form a coil about 18” in diameter, (taking care not
to deform the tubes) in the horizontal orientation if possible, and
secure tightly to the bulkheads, etc. using plastic wire straps.
Protect tubing from chafe and vibration with soft sleeving as
necessary.

16 WAECO USA, Inc. Tel. [phone] • Fax. [phone] • www.waecousa.com Contents, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice.
ELECTRICAL CONSIDERATIONS
WATER COOLED OPTION PACKAGE: How it works and why
To get absolutely top performance from your
SuperColdMachine, you can add this package at any time
in the future if not with your original installation. If inlet
air temperature to the SuperColdMachine exceeds 90°F,
switching to water cool mode will produce shorter “on”
times and lower average amp draw. As air temperature
increases, the water-cooled advantage increases. In
tropical conditions, the total daily power consumption can
be reduced by 25—40%.
When you select “water pump on” using the switch panel
provided with this option, note that the built-in fan (and
the Powerduct fan, if fitted) continues to run. This ensures
a flow of air over the compressor to keep it relatively cool
and is normal.
It is strongly recommended that you switch the pump off
while using dockside power. With the battery charger
working, it is more important to extend the life of the
water pump than it is to save battery power.
Example: You left the boat on Sunday night, plugged in,
freezer full of food, and left the water pump on. On
Wednesday, a plastic bag gets sucked into the pump
intake. The pump runs dry, its impeller shaft locks up, the
pump motor stalls. The result is a damaged pump bear-
ing requiring replacement (available from WAECO USA).
The “pump / fan” fuse may or may not blow. If it does,
the frozen food may be lost because the unit may shut
down to protect itself. It is important to shut off the pump
when you leave.

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Preferred Arrangement
UNacceptable Alignment
Acceptable Arrangement
Overboard Discharge
Compressor
Water Line Water Line
Continuous
Rise
Vented
Line
Cockpit
Drain
Air Lock
Discharge
Inlet
Base Vertical Discharge
Points UP
Base Horizontal Discharge
is approx. Horizontal
WATER COOLED OPTION INSTALLATION
Please refer to the diagrams below.
Basic rules for a good installation.
1. The pump must be at least 1 foot below waterline at all
times (regardless of which tack you are on).
2. The pump orientation must be as pictured—no other
positions will work.
3. The strainer should be mounted with the bowl pointing
downward, otherwise, it will trap air and possibly
airlock the water pump.
4. Inlet thruhull must not be “shared” with any power-driven
pump and absolutely not the engine’s intake! you may
“tee-off” a toilet inlet, cockpit drain, galley seawater foot-
pump line, etc., provided that the seacock is at least 2”
below the waterline.
5. Inlet thruhull must have a “scoop” facing forward on the
outside of the hull to prevent “back siphoning.” At high
sailing speeds, the flow direction may reverse, introducing
air into the pump and damaging it. Failure to provide this
scoop is the major cause of pump failures.
6. Heeling can obviously be a problem since the pump may be
well below the waterline at rest or on one tack, but not on
the other. Traps and airlocks may also be created when the
boat is heeling. In most cases, the positive “ram effect”
created by the outside hull inlet scoop will overcome these
problems. This is another reason why the scoop is so
important.
7. Overboard thruhull (supplied) must be above the waterline—
so you can verify pump operation.
8. Total hose length must not exceed the 15 feet furnished.
9. Total lift (example: highest point of piping above pump)
must no exceed 5 feet.
10. No “traps” allowed! This means no “dips” in hoses. They
must run level or steadily uphill from inlet to strainer to
pump to highest point. To simplify, if you picked the boat up
in slings, the entire water circuit (except for strainer
contents) must drain through the inlet thruhull.
NO OTHER
POSITIONS ARE
PERMITTED!

18 WAECO USA, Inc. Tel. [phone] • Fax. [phone] • www.waecousa.com Contents, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice.
BATTERY RECOMMENDATIONS
Aminimum of THREE marine-grade batteries are strongly
recommended: One exclusively for engine starting and the other
two as a single bank for all other DC electrical devices such as
lights, electronics and your system. The second battery or group
of batteries (wired in series or parallel depending on voltage) is
commonly called the “house bank.” A standard marine battery
selector switch should be installed to isolate each battery or
battery bank.
The house bank should be at least 300 amp/hour capacity. More
is desirable. The larger the battery bank, the longer you can
operate the various loads between engine charging and the
faster you can recharge. This is because the alternator actual
output in amps is greater into a larger battery bank. Experts
suggest the bank’s nominal amp/hour rating should be four
times (4x) the alternator’s rated (hot) output.
The following ampere/hour capabilities are recommended for
the house bank, which serves the ColdMachine™.
For the “casual cruiser” 25-35 feet, seldom away from dock
for longer than overnight …minimum 200 amp/hours
For the “serious cruiser” 30-50 feet, often cruising for a week
or more …minimum 300 amp/hours
For the charter yacht or tropics-based “serious cruiser”
operating in hot climates and requiring greater quantities of
ice cubes and frozen foods …. Minimum 400 amp/hours.
High Output Alternator, Electrical Management Systems, and
Batteries
The continuing proliferation of electrical and electronic devices
aboard boats has produced great interest in reducing engine-
running time required for battery charging. Specialty high-output
alternators are readily available. Several manufacturers offer
complete electrical generation and management systems. It is
now entirely practical for medium sized cruising boats to support
DC refrigeration, inverter-driven galley appliances, navigational
systems including computerized charting and radars, all with very
acceptable daily engine hours for battery charging.
As to batteries, a good deal of misinformation still exists
regarding “marine,” “deep-cycle” and “deep-discharge” batteries.
These terms generally describe a battery constructed to provide
small-to-moderate currents for long periods of time, as opposed
to short bursts of high current to start engines. While “deep-
cycle” batteries start engines quite satisfactorily, engine-starting
batteries are very poor for small current, long-term tasks.
Automotive, sealed, or so-called “maintenance-free” wet-type
batteries are okay for the engine start battery, but are not suitable
for the house or service battery bank that runs all the other
equipment on your boat
regardless of how they are labeled. A
few manufacturers of genuine, marine, heavy-duty, deep cycle
wet-type batteries are creating a public awareness of the
inadequacies of disguised, re-labeled automotive batteries for
marine use, particularly as house batteries in sailing yachts.
GEL and AGM Batteries (as distinguished from so-called
“maintenance free” auto batteries ): Several high quality products
are available in all popular sizes. They perform comparably to the
very best wet-type deep cycle traditional batteries, but require
little or no maintenance. However they require very carefully
regulated charging systems, and cannot be simply interchanged
with wet batteries.
What all this means is that a boat owner with a full complement
of equipment aboard such as electronics, refrigeration, auto-pilot,
stereo, etc and who feels the engine must be run too long for
battery charging, can get very substantial improvements by using
the technology and equipment now available.
We strongly urge all boat owners to take advantage of the
excellent technical manuals, articles and products now available
in the marine industry. There is no longer any reason to put up
with long hours of engine running and marginal electrical
systems.
WIRING THE SYSTEM
All Adler/Barbour products from December 1998 forward
incorporate a new, more powerful and more energy efficient
compressor featuring a 3-phase AC motor, which is driven and
digitally managed by the electronic module (the finned device
on the side of the compressor).
NOTE: The electronic module is not repairable, should not be
opened and must be replaced if damaged.
This control unit, like most electrical devices, requires fairly
“clean” DC current for stable operation and long service life.
Batteries provide clean, ripple-free DC current. Many battery
chargers, alternators and AC/DC converters may not. This means
that the ColdMachine should not be connected directly to any of
these devices, unless a battery is between them in the circuit.

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VOLTAGE DROPS
When in the starting mode, the ColdMachine may momentarily
draw nearly 10 amps, even though the continuous running
current is between 3 and 5 amps. If the electronic control module
does not “see” at least 11.0V DC during the start period, it will
abort. Therefore, to avoid erratic problems, the supply wiring
must be correctly sized-please see Wire Size Table.
Make your wiring connection in one of these three ways:
1. Directly to the battery via a 15A breaker
(recommended). (*) See note.
2. To a heavy output terminal on the battery selector switch,
via a 15A breaker (recommended).
3. To the ship’s distribution breaker panel. This method is
acceptable if the selected breaker is directly re-wired to
the main battery selector switch with
its own heavy wire.
If not directly re-wired, the voltage drops within the panel
will be excessive and cause erratic operation.
Use the shortest possible route for wiring between the unit and
battery to avoid voltage drops.
Install a 15 amp circuit breaker in the positive leg for line
protection. The circuit breaker is also necessary for long “off”
periods because even with the thermostat off, there is still a milli-
amp range current flow in the system.
Make sure that all wiring conforms to applicable safety
regulations. Note that a replaceable 15 amp fuse located on the
condensing unit provides backup protection in case the breaker
should fail in the shorted condition.
Use marine quality connectors and circuit breaker to prevent
voltage drops in the supply circuit to the ColdMachine. Also, do
not install voltage dropping devices such as indicator lights, volt
and amp meters, etc., in the 12 volt DC wiring circuit.
Correct polarity is critical. If you connect in reverse, the system
will not operate. Should this occur, correct your wiring. The
system will automatically re-start.
(*) NOTE: The main fuse on the CM or SCM junction box is 15
amp. WAECO calls for a 15 amp breaker in the (+) DC
supply for several reasons:
1. The breaker will generally trip before the fuse will blow,
thus saving a crawl through the bilge.
2. The installer may use an incorrect higher-rated breaker, so
the 15A fuse will still provide proper circuit protection.
3. In very hot ambient temperatures, the largest systems may
briefly draw more than 10 amps for a few seconds,
resulting in nuisance trips if a 10A breaker is fitted.
MAKING THE POWER CONNECTIONS
Use color-coded wire so you know which is positive (+) and
which is negative (-). Connect the positive wire to the (+) screw
on the terminal strip. Contact the (-) terminal screw to the
negative lead to the battery, or the main negative terminal or
busbar.
WIRE SIZE
Wire size is critical. If you use undersized wire, your system will
run erratically, often fail to start, produce unsatisfactory cooling
and fail early in its service life. Use a wire gauge size based on
the total distance from the compressor unit to the battery selector
switch.
WIRE SIZE TABLE
Maximum distance from Gauge
compressor unit to battery AWG
4’ and under #14
5’ to 10’ #12
11’ to 17’ #10
18’ to 27’ #8*
28’ to 35’ #6*
36’ to 50’ #4*
*The terminal block on the junction box will accept #10 AWG wire
maximum. If you need to run heavier wiring, you should
terminate it at a suitable-sized heavy terminal strip and run #10
AWG from there to your condensing unit.

20 WAECO USA, Inc. Tel. [phone] • Fax. [phone] • www.waecousa.com Contents, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice.