West Wight Potter POTTER 15 User manual

WEST WIGHT POTTER 15
USER'S GUIDE
International Marine
904 West Hyde Park Boulevard
Inglewood, CA 90302-8803

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Congratulations!
You have purchased one of the best known trailerable cruising
vessels available.
We invite you to spend a few moments in the following pages
to become better acquainted with your new West Wight Potter
and at any point, if we can assist, do give us a call—
1-800-433-4080.
Best wishes for many pleasant sailing adventures!
Sincerely,
West Wight Potter

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Table of Contents
Getting Your New Boat Ready .................................... 4
Safety Equipment ......................................................... 5
Anchors......................................................................... 5
Trailering Made Easy ................................................... 6
Launching (Getting the Potter Wet) ............................. 7
Hoisting the Sails.......................................................... 8
Jib and Jib Sheets Set-up ............................................ 10
The Two Rules of How to Sail...................................11
Sailing Away—the Fun Part....................................... 11
Balance ....................................................................... 13
Mooring ......................................................................13
Motoring (Forget the Sails, Full Speed Ahead) .........14
Heading Home with Your Boat in Tow .....................15
Your Boat's Optional Equipment ............................... 15
Tips .............................................................................20
Warranty .....................................................................22
Basic Sailing Terms....................................................23
Glossary...................................................................... 24

Getting Your New Boat Ready
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When your new Potter first ar-
rives (after a quick hose-down
with a sponge and soapy de-
tergent), climb aboard and get
a feel for your new boat's
cockpit and cabin. Before your
first launch, several items may
need to be assembled on a one-
time-only basis. Leave these
items permanently connected
for convenience.
First, connect the side stays
(wires) from the mast to the
connectors on the sides of the
boat. The side stays are on ei-
ther side of the mast, about ¼ from the top. The pins on the adjusters on either side of the
deck are set for the proper location of connection (see Figure 1).
Make these initial connections with the mast in its lowered, horizontal position. Note that
two of the three mast stays are now connected, and that when you push the mast into place
for sailing, only the remaining forestay (front wire) will need to be connected.
Next, push the batten sticks into the pockets provided in the mainsail. The battens are of
various lengths; identify which length goes where by holding them up next to the sail pock-
ets. The pockets have a locking flap to hold the battens secure. The large upper batten has a
small cord—tie it to the grommet hole on the sail to prevent it falling out in high winds.
Now the sail can be connected
to the boom. The tack grommet
hole on the lower front of the
sail is connected by the twist
release pin in the front of the
boom. The clew grommet hole
on the back lower portion of
the sail is tied and led through
the block at the back of the
boom and then cleated on port-
side (see Figure 2).
Finally, the rudder may be
mounted on the back of the
boat.

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Safety Equipment
Ensure that all safety equipment has been obtained and is on board. Provide one US Coast
Guard approved personal flotation vest for each person on board, plus at least one throw-
type seat cushion for the cockpit. Many types of flotation vests are available and it is impor-
tant that each person sailing has one that is correctly sized—especially smaller children, on
whom adult vests would be useless. Check your local boat store for various available vests,
such as the thinner types more easily worn at all times.
Check the attachment buckles on the vests for ease of operation. For small children, make
sure the attachment buckles cannot be easily released.
Always encourage everyone to wear their flotation vests. In a situation where an individual
is not wearing a vest, make sure that a vest is easily obtainable, unbuckled, fully adjusted
for the individual, and is in plain view for quick use.
If all vests are located in one location, tag each vest for easy identification.
Always have a throw cushion within an arm's reach.
CAUTION: Use of personal flotation vests greatly increases comfort and safely during
sailing.
Anchors
You may wish to obtain a small anchor. Different types of anchors are available for differ-
ent sea-bed conditions. Visit your local boat store to find their recommendations for your
area. The store will usually have a chart matching a particular anchor model to the size of
your boat. Get the smallest anchor recommended for your boat. A smaller anchor will keep
weight down and make actual use easier. For similar reasons, do not use chains between the
anchor and anchor rope, which (in addition to extra weight, cost, and inconvenience) can
bang up and scrape your boat's paint. If extra weight is needed, tie extra weight (5 to 10
pounds) back from the anchor on the anchor line—though extra weight should not be more
than half on the anchor's weight—which will simulate a chain.
Mount the anchor on your front bow rail or front boat deck with the opposite end of the an-
chor line through the air vent to the anchor attachment plate provided in the front anchor
line compartment (reached from inside the cabin). Now your anchor will always be ready to
use.
When using your anchor, you need enough line so that the angle of the line from the boat to
the sea is about 45° or more. The rule of thumb, or "scope", is 5 to 1: the length of anchor
line should be five times the depth below the boat.

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Trailering Made Easy
Your Potter can be a joy to trailer, with the light towing weight and low trailering height.
The high-speed tires and wheels on your trailer are supplied with grease wheel fittings
(bearing buddies) to ensure ultimate serviceability when backing your trailer into the water.
Using a hand grease gun with an automobile-type fitting (available from your hardware or
automotive store), apply grease through the fitting in the center of the wheel until the visible
diaphragm moves outward slightly. Grease fittings twice yearly or more with frequent use.
NOTE: Adding grease frequently to the wheel fittings will avoid corrosive damage to
wheel bearings from water contact.
When trailering at highway speeds, use the tie-down rope or optional straps provided with
your Potter. The tie-down should be connected to both sides of the trailer frame while going
across the cockpit of your Potter. Your Potter nestles firmly on its trailer, and you may find
the tie-down not necessary for slower off-street use and when no side winds prevail which
might sway the Potter.
CAUTION: Use of the tie-down rope or strap is important to prevent the separate move-
ment of the boat and trailer caused by highway speeds, crosswinds, tight cor-
nering, bumpy roads, emergency braking, or suction from passing vehicles.
Before trailering, check how tightly your car may be turned without the trailer tongue con-
tacting any part of your bumper. If you are new to backing a trailer, go to a shopping center
parking lot during off-hours and practice backing before your first launching.
The most important points to check before trailering are as follows.
•Mast in down position and secured to boat
•Mast wires tucked in cabin door or tied securely
•Rudder tiller arm secured to prevent movement
•Rudder blade in up position or placed in cabin
•All equipment and accessories on board
•Tongue hitch latched firmly to car towing ball
•Tie-down rope firmly attached
•Trailer safety chains connected to car
•Trailer winch rope connected and tightened to boat towing eye
•Electrical plug connected to trailer for proper lighting
•Right- and left-hand rearview mirrors checked for proper position
If you do not yet have a hitch for your car, hitches are available for most cars from your lo-
cal auto parts supplier. Also, most truck hire agencies fit hitches. The electrical plug con-
nector for your car is provided with your boat. The trailer uses the industry-standard 4-
prong flat plug without grounding (grounding is achieved through the metal-to-metal con-
tact of the hitch connection).

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Launching (Getting the Potter Wet)
Launching your new Potter in the water is easy compared to other similarly sized boats, but
for the first several launchings you will want to take extra time to ensure everything is cor-
rect. Assuming you have prepared your Potter as discussed in the Getting Ready section,
you will be generally concerned with pushing the mast up into place, backing the trailer into
the water, raising the sails, and—the exciting part—sailing away!
Usually the mast is raised while the boat is on the trailer, right before backing into the wa-
ter. Before raising the mast, double-check that the side stay is connected to the boat, so that
when the mast is pushed up only the front mast stay need then be connected.
WARNING: Check very carefully that no overhead obstructions are present which would
interfere with the movement of raising the mast, especially overhead wires,
which may produce undesired sparks or electrical current.
After checking that no overhead obstructions are present, and after releasing all mast tie-
towns (but not the side stays), position yourself: Stand on top of the keel-well slot inside the
cabin, with the cabin hatch fully open. This is a firm position, with the hatch opening sides
giving lateral support. Grab the mast, check that all mast wires fall freely without kinks,
shoulder the mast, and slip back until you can place the base of the mast on the cabin-top
mast step. With the base seated at the back of the mast step, push the mast into its fully ver-
tical position. At this point, have an assistant attach the free front mast wire to the front hole
of the deck-plate connector. If an assistant is not available, it is easy to walk forward while
holding slight forward pressure to the mast front wire, and install. Or, prior to listing mast,
temporarily connect jib halyard to bow plate, and cleat halyard until the front stay can be
connected when mast is positioned. Nothing else needs to be done for the mast.
There are several ways the mast might be conveniently raised, although your first few tries
may be awkward until you get familiar with the procedure. You may wish to stand in posi-
tion and practice several "trial runs" to determine the most comfortable position for you.
Now prepare two handy dock lines, 6–10' long, and tie them to the front and back cleats of
the boat. Tie a knot in the unattached end so it won't slip out of your hand while holding.
Lay these lines on the deck with the noted end ready to grab as needed.
Next, remove the tie-downs from the boat and unplug the electrical connectors from the car.
CAUTION: Disconnecting the trailer electrical plug from the car before launching will
ensure no electrical short will occur, should water contact any part of the
trailer electrical system.
Back the trailer to the water's edge at the end of the launch ramp, set all brakes, and remove
any gear from the car which should be in the boat.

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WARNING: Leaving the trailer winch hook connected while backing down your launch
ramp will keep the boat from accidentally sliding backward off the trailer,
should the trailer bolsters or boat bottom be slippery, or should the launch
ramp be excessively steep.
Now, with your assistant walking beside the trailer holding the end of the front dock line,
continue backing your trailer until the trailer wheels are under water—usually about the
point where the water is just under the rear car bumper—at which time, hit your car brakes
sharply, and the boat will slide/float smartly off the trailer, retained by your assistant hold-
ing the dock line. Should an assistant not be available, tie the dock line to the trailer or to a
nearby dock before backing into the water.
Once the boat slides/floats from the trailer, pull the car and empty trailer forward and head
to your parking area (removing the dock line if attached to the trailer). With your boat
moored at water's edge, tied to your dock, or anchored close to shore, you are nearly ready
to raise your sails and sail away!
Hoisting the Sails
You have now reached the most exciting point of your day: raising your sails and sailing
away. First, lower your keel to ensure stability before raising your sails. Loosen the keel
line, located on the right side of the keel box between the cabin cushions, while holding
firmly. Then, feed the line out slowly, still holding firmly, until the visible arm from the
keel rotates all the way to the back on the keel-box slot. Keep in mind that there is a slight
pulling force on the keel from the weight of the keel itself, and you must hold firmly to this
line until the keel arm is fully back.
WARNING: Keep your hands and fingers completely away from the keel and keel housing
when it is being lowered or raised. Also, do not let the keel fall freely, as the
rotating arm may bump the keel box excessively during lowering.
Once the keel is down and the keel line loose, take the keel line connected to the end of the
keel arm, and secure it to the cleat on the right side of the keel box near the arm. This locks
the keel down for safety in heavier seas. (Of course, remember to release this keel line when
you sail up on the beach or get into very shallow water.)
NOTE: Locking the keel arm line to the keel cleat will increase the stability of the boat
during heavy seas and high winds.
Your keel has a slot, located on the front edge of the keel, which slides over a ⅜" keel pin.
This arrangement allows the keel to be removed for service.

Mainsail
With your boat pointed into the wind if possible, place the 3" sliding bar of the flexible fit-
ting on the front of the boom into the mast-slot opening, located close to the mast base. Let
the sliding bar drop down below the opening, then tie or shackle the loose end of the line
from the right side of the mast to the top of the sail. Feed the top end of the mainsail in the
mast-slot opening while pulling the sail all the way to the top of the mast, securing the re-
maining end of the line to the cleat on the starboard (right) side of the mast.
WARNING: Always keep clear of the boom, as the sail may blow the boom about over-
head.
Mainsheet Set-up
To secure the boom's movement, take the mainsheet (main sail-control line) provided on the
back of the boom, and lead it
(1) down through the double block on the rope at the back of the boat,
(2) up to the closest block on the boom,
(3) forward to the next block on the boom, and
(4) down to the swivel-cam cleat in front of the door (see Figure 3).
Pulling the main sheet through the cam cleat slightly will stop any sway of the boom.
NOTE: The main sheet may be left permanently connected for convenience.
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Jib and Jib Sheets Set-up
Next, raise the jib (front sail) by connecting the clips provided on the sail to the forestay, the
wire running from the top of the mast to the bow (front of the boat). With the sail connected
to the forestay, connect the jib halyard to the free end of the line on the left (port) side of the
mast to the top of the sail, and pull tight. The other end of the jib halyard is then tied to the
cleat on the left side of the mast.
To complete, take the jib sheet (the front-sail-control line provided) and tie the midpoint of
this line to the clew, the remaining hole on the back of the jib, such that two lines then lead
from this hole, one to each side. Each line is led outside the wire stays to the cam cleats lo-
cated on either side of the cockpit near the cabin door (see Figure 4).
Most of the preceding guidelines will be quickly mastered and, after you have launched and
set up for sailing several times, little thought will be needed to get your boat ready.
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