White Rotary 1202 User manual

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Table
of
Contents page
L.
Features
and
Parts
.
I
—
3
Principle
Parts
I
—
2
Accessories
3
II.
I
nstalln
tion
of
Niachine
Head
4
Portable
Case
4
Cabinet
4
LII.
Preparing
Machine
to
Sew
5
—
6
Winding
the
Bobbin
5
Lower Threading
5
Upper
Threading
6
IV.
Choosine
the Right Needle
7
—
9
Types
of
Needles
7
Needle
—
Thread
—
Fabric
Chart
8
Changing the
Needle
9
Changing the
Needle
Plate
9
V.
Getting
to Know
Your
Sewing
Machine..
10—14
Adjusting
the
Stitch
10—11
Stitch
Length
Dial
10
Reverse
Button
10
Stitch
Width
Lever
10
Relating
Stitch
Length
to
Stitch
Width
10
Pattern
Selector
11
Needle
Position
11
Adjusting
for
the
Fabric
12—13
Feed
Dog
Control
12
Pressure
Control
12
Tension
Dial
13
Adjusting
the
Tension
13
The
Proper
Presser
Foot
14
Changing
the
Foot
14
The
All
Purpose
Foot
14
The
Straight
Stitch
Foot
14
The
Embroidery
Foot
14
The
Buttonhole
Foot
14
VI.
HOW
to
Se.v 15—16
Pinning
15
Placement
of
Fabric/Starting
a
Seam
15
Guiding
the
Fabric
15
Etched
Seam
Guide
15
Cloth
Guide
15
Presser
Foot
as a
Guide
15
Holding
the
Fabric
15
Turning
Corners
16
Curved
Seams
16
Sewing Across
Heavy
Seams
16
Ending
a
Seam/Removal
of
Fabric
16
VII.
Applications
of
the
Straight
Stitch
17
Seams
17
Basting/Topstitching
17
Darning
17
Elastic
Thread
Shirring
17
VIII.
Applications
of
the
Zigzag
Stitch
18—21
Overcasting
18
Seaming
Knits
18
Sewing
on
Buttons
18
Forming
a
Thread
Shank
18
Satin
Stitching
19
Taperinc
19
page
Manual
Embroidery
Designs
19
Freehand
Monogramming
20
Applique
20
Gathering
Over
a
Cord
21
Lace Application
21
Flutter
Hem
21
IX.
Buttonholes
22—24
Preparation
22
Built-in
Buttonhole
22
Turn-around
Buttonhole
23
Corded
Buttonhole
24
Stretch
Buttonhole
24
X.
Applications
of
the
Blind
Hem
Stitch
25—26
Hemming
25
Shell
Tuck
26
Decorative
Effects
26
XL
Applications
of
the
Multiple
Stitch
Ziezac.
. .27—28
Overcasting
27
Patching
27
Mending
a
Tear/Darning
27
Elastic
Application
28
Understitching
Facings
28
Decorative
Effects
28
XII.
Applications
of
the Overiock
Stitch 29—30
Seams
29
Nylon
Tricot
Seams
29
Applying
Elastic
29
Ladder Stitch
30
Hemstitching
30
Topstitching
30
Cfl.
Aaolications
of
the
Straight
Stretch
Stitch
31
Seams
31
Topstitching
31
ciV.
Appiicanons
of
tne
..
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:
S
31
Seams
31
Elastic
Application
31
XV.
Use
of
the
Accessories
32—33
Twin Needle
Sewing
Effects
32
Pin
Tucks
32
Decorative
Designs 32
Yam
and Cord
Sewing
33
Zipper
Foot/Zippers/Cording
33
Quilting
Guide
33
34
Roller
Foot
34
Overcast
Foot
34
Blind Hem
Foot
34
Rolled
Hem
Foot
34
Fringe
Foot
34
XVII.
Care
and
Maintenance
of
Your
Sewing
Machine
35—36
Changing
Needles
35
Cleaning
35
Procedure for
Oiling
35
Changing
the
Light
Bulb
36
XVIII.
Minor
Problems and
Their Solutions
37

I.
Features
and
Parts
Principle
Parts
Picture Window
pictures the stitches and allows for easy selection.
Descriptive
Tension
regulates the amount of tension on
the needle
thread.
Take-Up
regulates
the flow of
thread
through the needle.
It has an
open-slot to simplify threading. The take
up lever should always be in its highest position
when beginning or ending sewing.
opens to
the left.
Allows easy
changing
of the
light bulb.
helps control the
flow of thread through the
needle.
holds the
needle
in
place.
holds
presser foot in place.
Diamond Point Feed
Dog
moves
the fabric
after each
stitch is formed. The
diamond points
give a
gentle feed for
delicate
fabrics
as
well
as an
accurate feed for
heavy
fabrics.
Presser
Foot
holds the
fabric in place for
sewing. Various feet
are
given
in
the accessory box.
Slide Plate
slides open
for
changing
the
bobbin.
Needle Plate
has guide
lines
on the
left and right for greater
sewing accuracy.
Presser Foot Lever —
controls the raising and lowering of the presser
foot. It
has an extra lift for the
placement of
heavy fabrics.
Thread
Cutter
is
located
on the
back of the presser bar for
convenience.
Spool Pins and
Caps—
hold
all
types
of spools effectively
and eliminates
over-spin
of
lightweight spools.
N
Face
Check
Spring

4
I
/
selects the stitch
shown
above the
indicator in
the
picture window.
r
Hand
Wheel
controls
the
up and
down movement
of the needle
/
bar.
Always
turn it
toward you.
Coupling
Wheel
releases the
movement of the needle bar in
order
to wind
a bobbin.
—Stitch
Length Dial
allows for
precise adjustment
of stitch length from
very fine to very
long.
-Push Button Reverse
allows for
easy backtacking
to lock thread ends.
-Stitch Width
Lever
allows for
precise adjustment
of
zigzag
stitch
width as well
as tapering.
Zigzag
Width Lever Stops
left
lock
determines
the
minimum width
stitch,
while
right
lock controls
the maximum.
Bobbin
Winder
automatically
disengages
from hand wheel when
bobbin
is filled
to the
proper level.
—__ Power
Switch
turns
on both
the motor
and light simultaneously.
((
Allows
selection of
high or low
speed.
Z
Bobbin
Winder
Tension
Disk
controls
the tension
on the
thread as
the bobbin
is being
wound.
-Needle Position
Dial
is variable
and
may
be
set in
any position
from
the
left to
the
right.
-Pressure
Control
controls
the
amount
of pressure
on the fabric.
It is
numbered
to
make adjustment
easier.
Normal
pressure
is
#
S.
-Foot
Ho’der
holds
the foot. it
is easy to exchange the sole.
________
—
adjusts the height
of
the lèed
dog for
special
sewing applications.
2

Accessories
Your
new
White
Rotary
sewing
machine comes
equipped
with
the
following
set
of
accessories
to
make
your
sewing
easier.
Four
Metal
Bobbins
The
bobbins
have
holes
in
one
side
for
convenient
bobb
in
placement.
Needles
Light
ball point
needles,
two
each
of sizes
11, 14
and
16
are provided.
Two
twin
need
les
are also
included.
Two Felt
Washers
and Spool
Caps
Place
felt washers
on spool
pins
under
the
spools
and
place
caps over
the
spools
tightly for
best
stitching
re
suits.
Quilting Guide
Helps
make parallel
rows
of
stitching.
Cloth
Guide
with Screw
Aids
in creating
straight
seams.
All Purpose
Foot
&
Zigzag
Needle
Plate
For all
utility
sewing.
Straight
Stitch
Foot
and
Straight
Needle
Plate
For
straight
stitching
on
sheer
or
very
lightweight
materials where
extra
control
is
needed.
Embroidery
Foot
Has
a
wide groove on
the
bottom
which
allows
the
foot
to
pass
over
dense
stitches,
such
as
satin
stitches
or
other
decorative
stitches.
Do not
use
this
foot
for
normal
sewing
of
lightweight
fabrics.
Buttonhole
Foot
Is
adjustable
and
regulates
proper
buttonhole
length
everytime.
Button
Sewing
Foot
To
hold
button
in
place
for
stitching.
Cording
and Zipper
Foot
For
stitching
very
close
to
the
edge
of
a cord
or
zipper.
Screw
Drivets
Small
one
for
use
on
bobbin
tension.
Large
one
for
use
on
thumb
screw,
needle
clamp
screw,
etc.
Tubed
Oiler
For
use
in
oiling
the
machine.
See
page 34.
Seam
Ripper
For
cutting
the openings
in
buttonholes
and
for
removing
stitches.
Bobbin
Extractor
For
easy
removal
of
bobbin
from the
bobbin
case.
Lint
Brush
For
removing
all
lint.
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II.
Installation
of Machine
Head
Portable
Case
Lay
the
sewing
machine
unit
face
down
on
a
table.
On
the underside
of
the
back
of
the
sewing
machine
are
two
clamping
screws
(A).
These
enter
the
head
hinge
holes
(B).
Release
the
clamping
screws.
On
the
base
of
the
portable
case
are
two
head
hinges
(C).
Lower
the
sewing
machine
onto
the
base,
fitting the
hinges (C)
into
the
holes
(B).
Tighten
the
clamping
screws
securely
with
a
screw
driver.
Place
machine
in
an
upright
sewing
position.
Machine
will
snap
under
portable
case
clamp
securing
it
in
correct position.
Draw
the
two electrical
leads
through
the slot
in
the
base.
Plug
cord
labeled
motor
into
the
receptacle marked
motor
on
the block
attach
ed
to
the
outer
section
of
the
base.
Insert
the
other
cord
into
the
receptacle
marked
light.
Insert
plug
into
a
wall
outlet.
(110-115
volts)
Cabinet
Lay
the
sewing
machine
unit
face
down
on
a
table.
On
the underside
of
the
back
of
the
sewing
machine
are
two
clamping
screws
(A).
These
enter
the
head
hinge
holes
(B).
Release
the
clamping
screws.
On
the
cabinet
are
two
head hinges
(C).
Tilt
them
up
and
back
as
far
as
they
will
go.
(Hint:
Stretch
a
rubber
band
across
the
two
hinges
to
help
hold
them
upright
while
mounting
the
sewing
machine
unit.)
Carefully lower
sewing
machine
onto
the
head
hinges,
making sure
to
insert the
hinges
as
far
into
the
hinge
holes
as
they
will
go.
With
the
sewing
machine
in
its
tilted
position,
tighten
both
clamping
screws
securely with
a
screw
driver.
Plug
the
electrical
leads
into
the sockets
located
inside
the
cabinet.
Plug
the
cord
labeled
motor
into
the
receptacle
marked
motor
on
the
block
attached
to
the
inside
of
the
cabinet. Insert the
other
cord
into
the
receptacle
marked
light.
Insert
plug
into
a
wall
outlet.
(110-115
volts)
NOTE:
Where
three
wire
grounding
is
provided
connect
the
plug
from
the
sewing
machine
to
the
connection
leading
from
the
control.
One
prong
is
larger
than the
other
three, eliminating
the possibility
of
error.
Insert
plug
into
wall
outlet.
(110-115
volts)
RcHTD
.4.
•1
4

IlL
Preparing
Machine
to
Sew
Winding
the
Bobbin
Disengage
the
hand
wheel by
holding
it
tightly
with
your
left
hand
and
turning
the
coupling
wheel
toward
you
with
your
right
hand.
(Fig.21)
Place
spool
on
spool
pin,
leaving
about
one
foot
of
thread
free,
then
place
spool
cap
over
spool
as
shown
(Fig.
22)
until
it holds the
spool
in
place.
Lead
thread
as
illustrated.
(Fig.
23)
Run
the
end
of
the
thread
through
the
single
hole on
one
side
of
the
bobbin,
and place
bobbin
on spindle
of
bobbin
winder
with
the
four
holes
of
the
bobbin facing
to
the
right. Turn
the bobbin
until
it
clicks
into
place.
Lift
bobbin
winder
until
it makes
contact
with
the
hand
wheel.
Hold
thread
end
securely
and
run machine
slowly.
Bobbin
wifi
stop turning
when
filled.
Always
break
off
loose
thread
end
used
to
start
the
winding.
Tighten the
coupling
wheel
by
turning it
away
from
you
as
you
hold
the
hand
wheel
in
21
23
place. The
needle
should
now
move
when
you
turn
the
hand
wheel.
Note:
If
the
bobbin
winds
unevenly,
adjust
bobbin
winding
tension
disc to
the
right
or
left
by
loosening
the
screw
and
sliding
it.
When
disc
is
in
proper
position,
tighten
screw.
(Fig.
24)
Lower
Threading
Drop
the
bobbin,
with
four
holes
on
top,
into
the
hook
and be
sure
the
bobbin
rotates
counter
clockwise.
Draw
the
thread
through
the slot
and
toward the
left
into the clearance
between
hook
and
spring.
(Fig.
25)
Put
the
thread
through
the
notch
at
the
end
of
the
spring
and
leave
the
thread
about
three
or
four
inches
long.
Close
the
slide
plate
allowing
the
thread
to
emerge
through
the
notch
above
the
window. Thread
should
cross
from
the left
across
the
top
of
the
bobbin.
Note: For
satin
stitching, drop the
feed
dogs
to
down
and
slip
the
thread
into
the
clip
at
the
back
of
the
hook. (Fig.26)
22

Upper
Threading
1.
Turn
hand
wheel
toward
you
to raise
the
take-up
lever
to
its
highest
position.
Presser
foot
should
be
in
the
raised
position.
2.
Lead
thread
from the spool
as
illustrated,
(Fig.
22)
being
sure
to
place
the
spool
cap
so
that
it
holds
the
spool securely.
Draw
the
thread between
the
tension
discs
and
around
toward
the
right
until
it
emerges
under the
fmger
like
projection.
Bring
the
thread
through
the
succeeding
points
as
illustrated. Thread the
needle
from
front
to
back
and
leave
the
thread
about
three
or
four
inches
long.
(Fig.
27)
3.
Hold
upper thread
down
on
slide
plate
and
turn
hand
wheel
toward
you
one
complete
revolution.
Pull
the
loop
which
has
been
formed
through
to
the
upper
surface.
(Fig.
28)
27
Place
both
thread
ends
under
the presser
foot
and
draw
them
toward
either
the
right
or
left
leaving
both
threads
about
four
inches
long.
(Fig.29)
29
28
6

IV. Choosing
the
Right Needle
Types
of
Needles
The correct selection
of needle to
suit the
thread
and fabric being
sewn gives
the best
stitching
results.
Fine fabrics
should
be
sewn
with fine
needles, heavier
fabrics
with heavier
needles.
For best
results, sewing
machine
needles should be
replaced
when they become
even slightly
dull or bent or at the
completion
of
every other garment.
A regular
needle is
suggested for
use
with
woven fabrics.
Needles, style 15 x
1,
(Euro
pean
equivalent System 705)
are
used on
the
majority
of household
sewing machines. They
range in
sizes
from 8 to 20
with the
lower
number
indicating
the finer needle.
The most
commonly
used sizes are
11
and
14.
A
ball point
needle
is
recommended
for use
with
tricots, jerseys, lingerie
and power
nets.
Unlike sharp,
pointed
needles, which pierce
fibers
of
knit
fabrics, destroying elasticity,
the
ball
point
slips
between fibers,
preventing
damage
to fabric and skipped stitches.
These
are
available in fine,
medium,
and heavy
ball
points.
A
wedge
point needle is
recommended for
use
with
leather and
leather-look vinyls.
A
wedge
cutting point
pierces
leather more
easily
than
ordinary
sewing
machine needles,
resulting in
more
satisfactory
stitching.
An
all
purpose
needle
is designed
to handle
knits as
well
as woven fabrics.
It eliminates
skipped stitches
and
the
slight ball
will
not
damage
delicate
fabrics. This is the
needle
provided
with your
sewing
machine
and will
be
used
for
most of your
sewing.
A
larger ball
point may
still be
necescary
for certain knits,
such as bathing suit
fabric
or power net.
Long
Groove
Elongated
Scarf
Short Groove
U
Eye—
H
Regular
Sharp
Needle
Light Ball
Point
Needle
Shaft—
Long
Groove—
IRound Side
of
Needle)
Groove\
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of
Needle)
Eye
Point
Medium
Ball
Point Needle
Wedge
Point Needle
Flat
7

The
correct
selection of needle
and
thread
to
suit
the
fabric
will
result
in
more
satisfactory
stitching.
Fine
fabrics
should
be
8titched
with
fine
needles,
fine
thread
and
short
stitches.
For
best
results
on heavier
fabrics,
use
coarser
needles,
heavier
threads
and longer
stitches.
Replace
the
machine
needle when
it
becomes
even
slightly
dull
or
bent.
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Size
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Silk
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Medium
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A-Silk
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Power
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Heavy
Ball
Nylon
FAKE FURS—VELOURS
14-16
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SHEER
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14-16
10
60 50-70
NO
A-Silk
Lawn,
Taffeta.
Blouse
Crepe,
Organdy
Nylon
DRESS
WEIGHT
9-11
70-80 Sharp
12 9
50
30
NO A-Silk
Crepe,
Wool,
Brocade,
Velvet
WOVEN MEDIUM
Wool,
Silk,
Linen,
Pique,
11
80
Sharp
12
7-8
50 30
NO
A-Silk
V
Faille,
Velveteen,
‘renycloth
H’
Duck,
Sailcloth
16
100
Sharp
tO
6-7
Ileavy
Duty
30
YES
NO
ET;sHtery
Awning
19
120
Sharp
8
3-4
Iteavy
Duty
30
YES
NO
—
‘-
•
V
——-
VINYLS—FILMS
14
90 Leather
(Wedgel
10
7-8
50
30
YES
NO
Roller
Foot
LEATHER
LIGHTTO
MEDIUM
WEIGHT
14-16
90-100
Leather
(Wedge)
8
3-4
50 30
YES
NO
Roller
Foot
HEAVY
LEATHER
16-18
100-110
Leather
(Wedgel
6-8
3
Heavy
Duty
30
YES
NO
Roller
Foot
—
—
———-
MACHINE
EMBROIDERY
9-I
I
60-80
Cotton
Embroidery Thread
Size
50-70
DECORATIVE
STITC1-IING
TOP STITCHING
16-18
100-110
Silk
Buttonhole
Twist
Size
D
METALLIC
EMBROIDERY
II
80
Metallic
Thread
-

Changing
the
Needle
31
Always
change
the
needle
after
every other
garment
especially
when
sewing
on
polyester
and
nylon
fabrics which
dull
needles
much
faster.
When
needles
are
dull
or
bent,
they
damage
both
your
fabric
and
the machine.
A
general
rule when
replacing
sewing
machine
needles
is
that
the
flat
side
of
the
needle
is
placed to
the
back
of
the machine,
when
the bobbin
is put
in from
the
front. If
the
needle
is
inserted
incorrectly,
the
stitches
will
not
form.
To change
the
needle
1.
Raise the
needle
bar
to
its highest
position
by
turning the
hand wheel
toward
you.
2.
Loosen
needle
clamp screw
to
remove
the
needle.
(Fig.3l)
3.
Place needle
(flat
side
to
the
back
and
long groove
toward you)
(Fig.31) in
the
needle clamp
and
push
it upward as
far
as
it
will
go,
tighten
clamp screw.
4.
After
changing
the needle,
make one
complete revolution
of
the hand
wheel
by
hand
to
be
sure
the
needle
is clearing
the
needle
plate.
Changing
the
Needle
Plate
To
change
the
needle
plate, simply
slide
the
cover
plate
toward
you.
Remove
the
needle
and
the
presser
foot.
Remove
the
two
screws
holding
the
needle
plate
in
place.
Lift
the
needle
plate.
Replace the
needle
plate.
The
needle
plate
is
removed
for
cleaning
the
lint which
may
pile
up
between the
needle
plate
and the
feed
dogs.
The
straight
stitch
needle
plate
is
used
for
sewing
very
fine
or
soft
materials.
The
zigzag
needle
plate
can
be
used
for
almost
all
of
the
normal
sewing.
.,
-Ji
Long Groove
Toward
You
32
AD
©
oil

V.
Getting
to
Know Your Sewing
Machine
Adjusting
the
Stitch
Pattern
-—
M
Length
—
0—4
Width
—
0
Needle
Position
—
M
Feed
Dog
—
High
Pressure
—
5
Foot
—
All
Purpose
Stitch
Length
Dial
This
dial
(Fig.33)
controls
the
forward
feeding
of
the
fabric.
At 0, the
fabric
does
not
feed
at
all.
As
the
numbers
increase
so
does
the
length
of
the
stitch. Turn
the
blue
dial
so
that
the
desired
number
is
above
the
blue
line
on
the
white
button.
*
33
34
Stop
Lever
Stop
Reverse
Button
The
white
button
in the
middle
of
the
stitch
length
dial
(Fig.33)
will
cause
the
feed
dog
to
feed
the
fabric
backwards.
This
button
may
be
used
at
the
beginning
and
end of
sewing
to
lock
the
threads.
To
backstitch,
simply
push the
button
in
and
hold
for
the
desired
number
of
stitches.
It
is
advisable
to
tie
thread
ends
instead
of
backstitching
on
soft
sheer
fabrics
to
avoid
puckering.
Stitch
Width
Lever
11 H11
36
I
Pattern
—
M
Length
—
2
Width
—
0—5
Needle
Position
—
M
Feed
Dog
—
Fligh
Prssir
-
5
Foot
—
All
Purpose
Pattern
-
M
Length
—
0—4
Width
—
5
Needle
Position
M
Feed
Dog
—
High
Pressure
—
5
Foot
—
All
Purpose
This
lever
(Fig.34)
controls the
swing
of
the
needle
from
left
to
right
for
various
width
of
stitches.
At
0
the needle
does
not
swing,
therefore
a
straight
line
of
sewing
results
no
matter
which
pattern
is
selected.
At
1,
the
needle takes
a
narrow
swing
resulting
in
a
narrow column
of
stitching.
At
5,
the
needle takes
a
large swing
resulting
in
a
wide
column
of
stitches.
(Fig.35)
Slide
the blue
lever to
the
desired
number
then
push
in
the
left
hand
stop
(Fig.
34)
and
slide
it
over
to
the
blue
lever.
The
stop
will
hold
the
lever
in
place.
Relating
Stitch
Length
to
Stitea
\iuth
When
the width
lever
is
engaged
at
one
particular width
(such
as
5),
the
stitch
length
dial
will
now
control
how
close
those
stitches
come
together.
At
length
0,
the
fabric
does
not
move,
resulting
in
a
ball
of
stitches
formed one
on
top of
the
other,
as
is
used
in
button
sewing.
At
about
length
1/4,
the
feed
pulls
the fabric
through
slowly,
resulting
in
a
dense
column
of
stitches
called
a
satin
stitch.
At
length
4, a
very
long
open
zigzag
results.
(Fig.36)
4
1
2
3

Pattern Selector
This
dial
(Fig.
37) selects
the
stitch
pattern
to be
made
according to
the
pictures
shown
at the
blue
indicator. Turn
the
silver
selector
dial
to
the
right and
the picture
of
the
stitch
to
be
formed
will
be
shown
in
the
top
position.
The
stitches
shown
are
as
follows:
1.
M
stands
for
manual
position
which
gives
the
standard
straight
stitch
when
the
width
is
at
0
and the
standard
zigzag
when
the width
is engaged.
2.
Black
boxes
-
indicate
buttonhole
steps
for
four
step
buttonholes
to
be
explain
ed
on
page
22.
3.
Blindhem
()
-
stitches forward
then
a
zigzag
bite
to
the
left
for
use in
hemming,
shell
tucking,
and
other
ap
plications.
See
page
25.
Width
0
will
give
a
straight
stitch,
all
other
widths
will give
the
blind
hem
stitch.
4.
Multiple
stitch
zigzag
() -
takes
three
stitches
from
side
to
side
for
use
in
overcasting,
applying
elastics
and
mend
ing
as
shown
on
pages
27.
Width
0
will
give
a
straight
stitch,
width
5
is
the
best
choice
for
use
of
the
multiple
stitch
zigzag.
5.
Overlock
stitch
()
-
takes
one
stitch
to
the
left,
one
stitch
backwards
and
then
one
stitch to
the
right
to form
a
straight
seam and
overcast
all in
one
operation.
This
is
excellent
on
both
knits
and
wovens
for
¼
inch
seams
on
width
5,
and
for
the straight
stretch
stitch
at
width
0.
See
page
29.
Straight
stretch
stitch
is
discussed on
page
3
1.
6.
Ultra
stretch
stitch
(
)
-
takes stitches
then
back
on
a
diagonal. This
stitch
has
the
greatest
strength
and
elasticity
and
is
excellent
for
loose
or
bulky
knits,
such
as
sweater
knits, bathing
suit,
and
cotton
knits.
Use it
at
width
5
for
completed
¼
inch
seams
on
knits.
This
stitch
is
never
used on
width
0.
See
page
31.
Needle
Position
l’his
dial
controls
the
location
of
the
needle
in
relation
to
the
presser
foot.
(Fig.
38)
Never
move
the needle
position
dial
while
the
needle
is
in
the
fabric
because
it
will
bend
or
break
the
needle.
The
needle
may
be
used
in
any
position
between the
left
and
right
even
though
only
three
positions
are
labeled.
L
-Left
M
-
Middle
R
-
Right
The
etched
guide
lines
on the needle plate
are
measured
from
the
needle
in
the
middle
position.
Pattern
-
Length
-
2
Width
-
5
Needle
Position
-
M
Feed
Dog
-
High
Pressure
-
5
Foot
-
All
Purpose
Pattern
-
M
Length
-
2
Width
-
0-2
Needle
Position
-
L, M,
R
Feed
Dog
-
High
Prui
5
Foot
-
All
Purpose
37
38
M
M
M
LQR
L 0 R
L 0 R
11

Pattern
-
M
Length
-
2
Width
- 5
Feed
Dog
-
Pressure - 5
Foot
- All
Purpose
Pattern
- M
Length
-
2
Width
— 0
Needle
Position - M
Feed
Dog
-
High
Pressure
-
Foot
- All
Purpose
When
straight
stitching
with
the
all
purpose
foot,
the
needle
may
be
moved
to get
closer
to an
edge
or
to
make
guiding
of
the
fabric
more
convenient,
as
in
topstitching.
The
needle
can
also
be
moved
in
relation to
the
zipper
foot
in
order
to
take
full
advantage
of
the
feed
dog.
Caution:
When using
the
straight
stitch
foot
use
the
M
position
of
the
needle only.
Adjusting
for
the
Fabric
Feed
Dog
Control
This
lever
(Fig.39)
will
raise
or
lower
the feed
dog
as indicated.
Since
the
feed
dog
carries
the
fabric
through
the
machine,
this
lever
allows
the
feed
to
be
regulated
for
various
materials
and
types
of sewing.
High:
For
the
greatest height
of
the
feed
dog
and
best
grip on the
fabric.
This
is the
position used
for most sewing.
Low:
For
less
height of
the
feed
dog
and
more gentle
hold
on the
fabric.
This
position
is
used for sewing
delicate
fabrics.
Down:
In
this
position, the
feed dog
is
complete’y
below the
needle
plate
surface and
therefore does
not
move
the
fabric
at
all.
Pressure
Control
This
control (Fig.
40)
regulates
how
heavily
the presser
foot
rests
upon
the
fabric.
It
is
numbered
from
0-5
with
.stops
at
the
half-way
points
as
well.
The
higher
the
number
the
heavier the
pressure. The
lower
numbers
give
lighter
pressure. Zero
gives no
pressure.
Lighter
weight
fabrics need more
pressure
for
better
hold
against the
feed,
whereas heavier,
bulkier
fabrics
require
less
pressure
to
eliminate
pushing on the
top
layer
of
fabric.
Normal
pressure is
5.
39
40
I
i:i
I
J
0

Tension
Dial
The
top tension (Fig.41)
consists
of discs
between
which
the
thread
passes.
The
descriptive
tension
dial
regulates how
tightly
the
thread
is
being held.
When
necessary,
adjust
the
top tension
in
relation to
the
red
line,
turning
toward
“loose”
or
“tight”
as
needed. The
top
tension
is
engaged
only when
the
presser
foot
is
down
for
sewing.
The
bobbin
thread tension
is
controlled
by
the
left
small
screw
on the
front
edge
of
the
bobbin
case.
(Fig.42)
This
screw
may
be
turned
with
the
small
screw
driver
resting
in
the
notch
of the
slide
plate. Turn
to
the
right
to
tighten
and
to
the
left
to
loosen.
Adjusting
the Tension
The
tensions
may
have
to
be
adjusted
for
Pattern
—
M
certain
fabrics.
Before
adjusting
your
tension
Length
--
2—3
make
sure
that
the
machine
is
properly
Width
—
0
threaded
with
identical
thread
on
both
Needle
Position
—
M
top
and
bobbin.
Use
a
new
needle
the
correct
Feed
Dog
—
High
size
for
the
thread
and
fabric
being
sewn. (See
Pressure
—
5
chart
page
8.)
Foot
—
AN
Purpose
It
is best
to
test
the
tension
on
a
scrap
of
the
fabric
you
are
using
for
construction.
Always
use
a
double
thickness
and
always
sew
on
the
bias
when
testing tension.
The
tensions
are
correct
when the
upper
thread
and
lower
thread
interlock
between
the
two
layers
of
fabric with
the
ioops
not
showing
on
top
or
bottom.
(Fig.
43)
43
Adjust
as
follows:
1.
If the
seam
is
puckered
both
top
and
bobbin
tensions
are
too
tight.
Loosen
both
tensions
slightly.
(Fig.43)
2.
If top thread
lays
on
the
fabric
with
bottom
thread looping
over
it,
the
top
tension
is
too tight.
(Fig.
44)
Loosen
the
top
tension
slightly.
3.
If the
bottom
thread
lays
on
the fabric
with
the
upper thread
looping
over
it, top
tension
is too
loose.
(Fig.
45)
Tighten
top tension
slightly.
41
42
Balanced
Tension
44
Top
Tension
too
tight
45

The
Proper
Presser
Foot
46
Step
1
Step
2
Step
3
Changing
the
sole
Pull
presser
foot
shank
lever
toward
you,
to
remove
the
sole.
(Fig.46
Step
1)
Place
desired
sole
under
shank
and
lower
presser
foot
lever
onto
the
sole.
(Fig.46
Step
2)
Sole
will
be
locked
in
automatically.
(Fig.46
Step
3)
The
All
Purpose
Foot
This
foot (Fig.47)
is
flat
on
the
bottom
and
has
a
wide
hole
to
accommodate
wide
stitches.
This
foot should
be
used
for
all
of
your
normal
sewing
so
that
you
can
use
any
stitch
without
changing
the
foot.
This
foot
is
fine
for
straight
stitching.
(If
fabric
is
pulled
down
with
the needle,
use
left
needle
position
for
more
control.)
The
Embroidery
Foot
This
foot
(Fig.48)
has
a
wide
groove
carved
out
on
the
bottom.
This
groove
allows
the
foot
to
pass
over
dense
stitches
such
as
the
satin
stitch
without
catching
on
the
stitch.
It
is
transparent
to
make
stitch
placement
easier.
Do
not
use
this
foot
for
normal
sewing
of
lightweight
fabrics.
Since it
is
grooved,
it
will
not
hold
the fabric
taut
enough
to
produce
a
good
stitch.
-4
47
49
50
The
Straight
Stitch
Foot
This
foot
(Fig.49)
is
flat
on
the
bottom
and
has
only
a
narrow
hole
to
accommodate
only
straight stitching.
It may
be
used
on
sheer
or
soft
fabrics
for
more
control
when
the
all
purpose
foot
allows
the
fabric
to
be
pulled
with needle.
When using
this
foot,
the
needle
position
should
always
be
on “M”,
and
the
width
on
“0”
to
avoid
hitting
the
foot
and
breaking
the
needle.
The
Buttonhole
Foot
This
foot
(Fig.50)
has
a
frame.
This
frame
holds
the
fabrics
taut
enough
to
produce
a
good
buttonhole.
48

VI.
How
to
Sew
51
Pinning may
be used
as
a
time saver
instead of
hand
basting.
Place
your
pins
at
right
angles
to
the
edge
of
the
fabric
with
the
pin head
at
the
raw edge.
It
is
possible
to
sew
over
pins,
but
for
best results
it is
recommended
that
the
pins
be
removed
as
you
approach
the
presser
foot.
Sewing
over
pins
can
result
in
damaged
needles.
Placement of
Fabric/Starting
a
Seam
Before placing fabrics
under
the
presser
foot,
make
sure
that
the
take-up
lever
is
at
its
highest
position.
Place
your
fabric
so
that
its
raw
edge
is
even
with
the
back
edge
of
the
presser
foot.
When
placing
a
heavy,
bulky
fabric
under
the
foot
push
up
on
the
presser
foot
4ever
for
extra
lift
while
you
are
positioning
the
fabric.
(Fig.51)
Place
the
thread
ends, which
are
3—4
inches
long,
under
the presser
foot
and
either to
the
left or
to
the
right.
Be
sure
that
both
thread
ends
are
under
the
presser
foot.
Always
lower presser
foot
before
sewing.
Press
in
the
reverse
button
so
that
the
machine
sews
a
few
stitches
backwards
to the
edge
of
the
fabric to
backtack,
then
release
the
button
allowing
the
machine to
continue
sewing
forward.
52
Guiding
the
Fabric
Etched
Seam
Guide
The
etched
seam
guides on
the
needle plate
are
graduated
in
1/8
inch
divisions
measured
from
the
middle
needle
position.
In
order
to
use
the
etched
guides
effectively,
let
the
edge
of the fabric follow
the
line
selected
for
the
seam.
Therefore,
for
a
5/8 inch
seam,
place
the
raw
edge
of
the fabric
on
the
line
marked
“58”.
(Fig.52)
In
order
to
sew
a
straight
line,
let
your
eye
follow
the
etched
lines,
not
the
needle.
Cloth
Guide
This guide
may
be
placed
on
the
machine for
extra
help
in
keeping
seams
straight.
It will
allow
you
to
guide
seams
from 1/4 inch
to
1-1/2
inch
in
width,
so
that
it
is
useful
for
seams
of
unusual
widths.
(Fig.53)
Presser
Foot
as
a
Guide
Straight
Stitch Foot
—
for
a
1/4
inch
seam,
guide
fabric
using
the
first
etched
mark
on
the
right
side
of
feet.
(Fig.54)
All
Purpose
Foot
—
for
a 1/4
inch
seam,
use
the
left needle
position and
guide
the
fabric
along
the
right
side
of
the needle
hole.
(Fig.55)
All
Purpose
Foot
—
for
a
1/8
inch
seam,
use
the middle
needle
position and
guide
the
fabric along the
right
side
of the
needle
hole.
(Fig.56)
Holding
the
Fabric
For
most
fabrics,
it is
not
necessary
to
hold
the
fabric
in
both
front
and
back.
Merely
guide
the fabric
with
one
hand
from
the
frn
n
t
1;’
53
54
55
56

57
For
the
fine
delicate
fabrics,
such
as
chiffon,
georgette,
and
tricot,
the
best
results
will
be
attained
by
holding
the
fabric
in
front
and
back
of
the
needle
without
pulling
on
it.
Turning
Corners
To
pivot
at
a
corner.
(Fig.57)
leave
the
needle
in
the
fabric
while
on the
upswing
so
that
the
stitch
is
almost
completed,
thus
preventing
the
possibility
of
skipped stitches
in
the
corner.
Lift
the
presser
foot
and
pivot the
fabric.
Then,
lower the
presser
foot
and
Continue
sewing.
Curved Seams
On
a
curved
seam
(Fig.58)
use
a
slightly
shorter
stitch
length
than
you
are
using
for
the
rest
of
the
seams.
For
example,
if
length
2
is
being
used
for
the
seams,
a
1-1/2
stitch
length
would
be
preferred
for
curves.
A
smaller
stitch
length
wil
add
strength
and
elasticity
to
the
seam.
When
guiding
the
fabric,
keep
your
fabric
edge
on
the
etched
seam
guide
line
directly
across
from
the
needle
rather
than
on
the
forward
part
of
the
line.
The
seam
guide
may
be
used
on
an
angle
as
shown.
Sewing
Across
Heavy
Seams
When
approaching
a
heavy
seam,
(Fig.59)
hold
the
fabric
upwards
on
an
angle
so
that
the
heavy
seam
falls
under
the
upward
curve
of
the
foot.
This
will
help
feed
the
heavy
seam
through
the machine.
Ending
Seam/Removal
of
Fabric
Stitch
to
the
edge
of
the fabric,
then
hold
in
the
reverse
button
and
backstitch
for
a
few
stitches
to
reinforce
the
end
of
the
seam.
Turn
the hand
wheel until
the take
up lever
is
in
its
highest
position
so
that
the
stitch
is
completed
and the
threads
will
pull
freely.
Lift
the
presser
foot
and
remove
the
fabric
by
drawing
the
threads
to
the
left
and
back
keeping
them under
the
foot
so
as
to
not
bend
the
needle.
Cut
the
threads
with
the
thread
cutter
on
the
back
of
the
presser
bar.
Leave
the
thread
ends
three
to
four
inches
long.
16
58
59

VII.
App’ications
of
the Straight
Stftch
Seams
The
normal
stitch
length for
most fabrics is 2,
but
the length
chosen should depend on. the
fabric and
area
of
usage.
Usually, heavier
fabrics
require longer stitches, and lighter
weight fabrics
require shorter stitches.
For
curved
seams
and bias cut areas use a shorter
stitch length
to add strength and elasticity to
the
seam.
Lsastlng/
t opsutcing
Sewing
a seam with
a longer stitch is useful
for temporary
seams
prior
to fitting. Basting
stitches also may
be used
when
gathering in
fullness.
Topstitching can
be done very effectively
with the long
straight stitch. For
a
bolder
stitch, two
threads of the same
type
can
be
threaded through
one needle
(size
14
or
16).
A
heavier thread such as buttonhole twist
may
be used for topstitching, but be sure to
use a
larger needle (size 16 or 18). (Fig.60)
Darning
Worn spots or small holes can be
darned very
easily. Use
of an embroidery hoop is optional
depending on the fabric. (Fig.61)
A
fme
thread is
recommended
so
that the fabric
and thread will blend together invisibly. When
you use a
fine thread,
loosen
upper
thread
tension slightly.
Trim the
ragged edges from
the area to be
darned.
Hold
the
threads to start, then
move
the
fabric slowly
backwards and
forwards
while running
the machine
very
fast to
fill the
area.
More professional
results
will
be
attained
by
moving the fabric
in a
figure eight pattern
while sewing.
After filling
in the area
lengthwise,
reweave with
crosswise
sttches in
the same
manner.
Elastic
Thread
Shirring
Wind
elastic thread
onto bobbin.
(Fig.62)
as
shown, letting
the thread pass
through your
fingers. The
thread should be wound smooth
ly
without
stretching.
Place bobbin in case as
usual, being
sure that the elastic
is drawn
through the
tension.
Use
regular thread
on
the top
of the
machine. Do
a trial run
on the
chosen fabric to test length of stitch. Lay a
piece of paper under the fabric to keep it
from gathering up as you
sew.
This
will
enable you to sew many parallel rows
of
stitching without difficulty.
Afterwards tear
out the paper and the fabric will be gathered.
(Fig.63)
Pattern
M
Length
1—3
Width
— 0
Needle
Position
— M
Feed Dog
— High
or Low
Pressure
— 3
5
Foot
Straight Stitch
or
All Purpose
Pattern
— M
Length
4
Width
0
Needle
Position
L
or M
Feed Dc
H.d
. r Lo
Pressure
3-5
Foot — All
Purpose
Pattern
- M
Length
0
Width
— 0
Needle
Position
M
Feed
Dog
Low
Pressure
— 0
Foot — All Purpose
or
Embroidery
Pattern
M
Lereth
2
Width
0
Needle
Position
reed Dog
- rii
Prsure
— 5
Foot All
Purpose
60
62
M
63
17

Vifi,
Applications
of
the
Zigzag Stitch
66
M
65
Pattern
NI
Length
—
I
—3
Width
—
5
Needle Position
—
NI
Feed Dog
—
High
Pressure —
5
Foot
—
All
Purpose
Pattern
M
Length —
Width
—
Needle
Position
—
NI
Feed
[)og —
High
Pressure —
5
Foot
—
All
Purpose
Pattern
—
NI
Length
0
Width
—
Needle
Position —
L
Feed
Dog
—
Don
Pressure
—
5
Foot
—-
Button
Se
ing
Overcasting
-
Place
the
edge of
the
material
underneath
the
opening
of
the
sewing
foot and
guide
raw
edge
along
the
center
groove
of
the
foot,
allowing
stitch
to
form
half on
and
half
off
the fabric.
(Fig.64)
The
multiple
stitch
zigzag
is
a
wiser
choice
for
most
fabrics.
See
page
27.
Seaming
Knits
The narrow
zigzag
can
be
used
in
seams
of
firm knits
for added
strength.
After
sewing,
open
seam and
press
flat.
Tiny
zigzag
stitches
can
hardly
be seen
and
the seam
will
give
when
stretched.
(Fig.65)
Sewing
on
Buttons
Zigzag
stitching
is
a
very
easy and
convenient
method
of
sewing
on
buttons
without
a
shank.
(Fig.66)
Place
the
button
so its
left
hole
comes
directly under
the needle,
then gently
lower
the
button
sewing
foot.
Take
a
stitch
into
the hole.
Raise
the
needle
from the
left hole,
and
move
zigzag
width
lever
to
the right
until the
needle
comes
down exactly
over the right
hole in
the
button.
Note:
Be
sure
the
needle
clears
the
holes
of
the
button
by
moving the
wheel
by
hand
before
running
the machine
fast.
Usually
6
to
8
stitches
are
adequate
for
securing
a
button
in
place.
Stop
with
the
needle
in
the left
hole.
To
lock the
threads,
set
the
stitch
width
at
0.
and take
a
few
stitches
in
the
left hand
hole.
Forming
a
Thread
Shank
Buttons
sewn
on
coats
or
jackets
should
have
a
thread
shank
to make
them
stand
away
from
the
fabric.
(Fig.67)
To
form
a
thread
shank,
sew
over the
blade
of
a
regular
sewing
machine
needle.
Insert
needle
into hole
on
the
front
side
of
foot.
After stitching
the
button
to
the
fabric.
remove
work
from
under
the
presser
foot
leaving
threads
about
six
inches
from fabric.
Remove
needle.
Pull
the
threads
to
back
of
button
and form
a
shank
between
button
and
fabric
by
winding
threads
tightly
around
the
attaching
stitches.
Pull threads
to
back
of
the
fabric
and
tie
thread
ends
securely.
(Fig.67)
67
‘I
1
CS