Wild Boar Audio WBA Whole Hog User manual

“ ”
For Use On 2014 and Newer Liquid
Cooled Ultras and Trikes
IMPORTANT!
This Kit Is Not For Use On CVO Model Bikes and
Cannot Be Used On Bikes With Air Cooled Motors

Thank you for your purchase of Wild Boar Audio’s WBA WHOLE HOG KIT. We want
your new system to work as well as it was designed to, so if you have any questions
or concerns, please email: [e-mail] or call us during regular business
hours at 705-719-6361 (EST). If you still need help, please consider a professional
installation by your dealer.
A) In order for the supplied amps to work properly, your radio must have the proper
“flash” installed. It should be noted that non CVO Ultra models and Ultra Trike
models come from the factory with the required “4 speaker no amp flash. If your
bike has never had other amplifiers installed, you will not require the radio to be
flashed. Please see the “System Adjustment” section for more information.
B) There is 1 set of FRONT speakers, and 2 sets of REAR speakers in this kit. The front
speakers are specifically designed to work in the very small factory front speaker
cabinets, and the rears are designed to work in more “open” environments like the
lower fairings and rear pods that “vent” into the tour pack.
C) The amplifiers have built in protection and will turn off to protect your
charging system if your charging system/battery goes below 10.5 volts.
D) In very high heat situations the amplifiers will shut off to avoid damage. Once
cooled down to safe operating temperatures, each amp will turn itself back on.
Getting Started
Step #1: Remove the seat, and both wires (+ and -) from the battery.
Step #2: Remove the outer fairing/headlamp assembly. Refer to a service manual if
you need help with this. Note: A towel on the front fender can help prevent
scratches or “dings” from dropped tools or fasteners etc. High volume expletives
will also be kept to a minimum.
The WBA 300.2 amplifier is a Class D design. It should be
understood that ALL Class D amplifiers, regardless of brand, cause
a reduction in FM reception. The WBA 300.2 features a proprietary
circuit design called R.E.M.I.T. (Reduced Electro Magnetic Interference
Technology) that Wild Boar Audio believes gives the BEST FM reception
available for any Class D Amplifier designed for a motorcycle.
Reduction of FM reception is considered normal.
Wild Boar Audio understands that some riders prefer the cosmetics of
in fairing antennas, however it should be noted that NOTHING works
as well as the factory antenna. If FM is an important part of your
listening, we strongly advise against the use of
any in fairing type antenna!
Important—Please Read Before Proceeding!

Installing Speakers In Lower Fairings:
Step #1: Starting on the brake side lower fairing, use a coin or something similar to
carefully pry off the front access cover. With the cover removed, look inside the
opening, and at the very back, you will see a 7/16” nut that is to be removed. This nut
allows the painted fairing lower “cap” on the front to come off. With the painted
cap off, you will see a “bar” that secures the top half of the lower to the crash bar.
Remove the 2 nuts and the bar and put aside for now. At the bottom of the lower is a
clamp that holds the bottom half of the lower to the crash bar. Remove the bolt that
secures the clamp.
Step #2: Gently push the top of the lower towards the back of the bike just enough
so you can remove the 3 torx screws (normally hidden by the painted cap) that hold
the lowers front panel in place. Gently pull on the front panel to release 2 clips which
will allow the front panel to come away, but not completely free from the bike yet.
There is a small arm for the vent mechanism still attached that is removed by
squeezing the top of the pivot pin and lifting up on the arm. You can now bring the
factory lower front panel to a work bench and remove the torx screw that holds the
vent adjuster and arm to the factory panel. Using the same screw, install the vent
adjuster and arm into your new speaker adaptor.
Step #4: Moving to the front side of the lower , in the area normally hidden by the
painted cap, you will see a hole where the bolt passes through that secures the
painted cap. Just above that hole and approximately 2” back from the bolt hole, you
will need to drill a 3/8” hole for the wires to pass. When this install is finished, the
painted cap will hide the wire nicely. It’s a good idea to start with a pilot hole and
then drill the final size. Use care to make sure your drill bit does not pierce the
coolant tank inside the lower on the brake side!
Step #5: Locate the supplied wire harness marked “LC LOWER”. On the harness you
will see a main 4 wire harness with blue/black, and brown/black wires covered in a
black sheath. You will also see two-2 wire harnesses (wires are all black) that each
need to be unplugged from the main harness.
Step #3: The kit comes with die cut foam
panels. Find the one for the side of the bike
you are working on and apply as shown
noting you should clean the area with
isopropyl alcohol first. On your factory
front panel, you will see 2 white clips. One
of these clips will come off and be installed
onto the new speaker adaptor.
Foam Panel
Goes Here
Factory
White Clip
Goes Here

Step #6: Locate the 2 wire harness marked “brake side” and plug it into the main
harness connector noting it will only go in one way. The other side of the same
harness will go into the lower. Pass the larger connector first. You can tear off the
sticker if that makes it easier. Once the wires are in the lower, take up the slack
along the crash bar keeping the main harness (with blue/black, and brown/black
wires) as close to the center of the crash bar as possible.
Step #7: The kit comes with strips of black gummy material. Take one of the strips
and use it to seal the hole around the wire on the outside of the lower.
Step #8: Snap the arm for the vent back into place on the pivot pin. Re install the 3
factory torx head screws (by hand just until they are snug) to secure the panel to the
lower. The “bar” and 2 nuts removed earlier that secure the top of the lower to the
crash bar will now be reinstalled. The bolt removed earlier that secures the lower to
the bottom of the crash bar is also re installed.
Step #9: Using some of the supplied zip ties , secure the speaker wire to the crash
bar keeping the main harness as close to the center of the crash bar as you can. It’s a
good idea to trim the excess of the zip ties as close to flush as possible so there are
no sharp edges. When done, install and secure the painted fairing lower cap with
the 7/16” nut removed earlier.
Step #10: Take one of the Wild Boar WBC 1654 REAR speakers that came in the kit
and attach the speaker wires just installed into the fairing lower on to the speaker,
noting the wires will only go on one way. Sit the speaker and its trim ring into the
lower, and BY HAND, get the supplied machine screws “started” into the brass
threads. Get all 4 machine screws “snug” and then tighten in an “X” pattern.
Step #11: Repeat the previous steps to install the lower speaker adaptor for the
clutch side of the bike. The left over portion of the lower speaker wire harness will
get routed and plugged in later on in the install.
Rear Speaker Installation:
Step #1: Doing one side at a time, remove the 4 screws that secure the rear speaker
to the speaker “pod”. Lift the speaker out and carefully remove each speaker wire
from the speaker.
Step #2: Take a WBC 1654 REAR speaker and attach the factory speaker wires
noting they will only go on one way. For the speaker going in the brake side pod, the
connectors must be oriented so they are in the “3 o’clock” position or it will not fit.
For the speaker going in the clutch side pod, the connectors must be oriented so
they are in the “9 o’clock” position or it will not fit. With each new speaker and grill
trim ring in place, secure the speaker/trim rings to the pods using the factory
screws. Like the lower speakers, we suggest getting the machine screws “started”
BY HAND. Get all 4 machine screws “snug” and then tighten in an “X” pattern.

Front Speaker/Installation:
Step #1: On the brake side speaker cabinet, carefully remove the cable going into the
power port/cigarette lighter assembly. If your bike has the CB module (mounted
“sideways” on the clutch side cabinet) undo the antenna cable and main harness. The
CB Module will stay attached to the clutch side cabinet when removed. Undo the
speaker wire plugs going into each cabinet (pink & pink with black stripe wires).
Step #2: Removing the Factory Cabinets: It is STRONGLY suggested to COMPLETE the
brake side speaker swap before moving to the clutch side! Figure 1.1 and 1.2 (below)
have arrows that point to all 8 factory fasteners (per side) that will be removed to
allow each cabinet to come out of the bike. Although the brake side is shown below, all
8 fastener locations are common for both brake and clutch side cabinets. In Fig 1.1 you
will see where the speaker wire exits the cabinets. The 3 cabinet fasteners below the
speaker wire are 7/16” heads that will also accept a 3/16” allen head. A “ratcheting box
end” or “ball end” allen wrench will make removing these 3 fasteners much easier!
Fig1.1
Amp
Fig1.1 Side View of cabinet Fig1.2 Back View of cabinet
Step #3 With the cabinet removed from the bike, undo the 4 screws that hold the
factory speaker to the cabinet and put these screws aside. Pull the factory speaker
away from the cabinet and carefully take off each speaker wire by un-doing one at a
time. Take a WBC 1654 FRONT speaker, and attach the speaker wires noting the
factory speaker wire connectors will lock into place on the speaker. Sit the
speaker into the cabinet noting the speaker MUST be oriented so that the wires are
in the bottom (6 o’clock) position so the speaker frame will not touch the small
locator peg that sticks out from the face of the cabinet. If the speaker is not placed
correctly, the speaker may not “seal” correctly to the cabinet and the bass response
will be terrible! Using the supplied screws (which are longer than the factory
screws), attach the new speaker to the cabinet. Re-install the front speaker/
cabinet assembly back into the brake side of the bike.