Windpilot PACIFIC PLUS User manual

PACIFIC PLUS
WELCOME
1.0 INSTALLATION
1.1 Tools
1.2 Installation Options
1.3 Points to Consider before Installation
1.3.1 Assembling the System after Delivery
1.3.2 Positioning the System
1.3.3 Bad Air and the Windvane
1.3.4 Auxiliary Rudder and Main Rudder
1.3.5 On Land or in the Water?
1.4 Installation: Quick Guide
1.4.1 The Five Criteria
1.5 Installation: Comprehensive Guide
1.5.1 Height above the Waterline
1.5.2 Vertical, Canoe and Traditional Overhanging Sterns
1.5.2.1 Making the First Connection
1.5.2.2 The Mounting Block
1.5.2.3 Mounting the Pendulum Rudder Module
1.5.2.4 Alignment
1.5.2.5 Fitting the Cross Brace
1.5.2.6 Making the Second Connection
1.5.2.7 Fore and Aft Correction
1.5.2.8 Lateral Correction
1.5.3 Forward-raked Sterns and Bathing Platforms
1.5.3.1 Fore and Aft Correction
1.5.3.2 Lateral Correction
1.5.4 Be Aware
1.5.5 Do I Need to Reinforce the Transom?
1.5.6 What if the System is Aligned Incorrectly?
1.5.7 Remote Control
1.5.8 The Pendulum Rudder
1.5.8.1 Mounting the Rudder Blade
1.5.8.2 Positioning the Rudder Blade
1.5.8.3 Overload Protection
1.5.8.4 Pendulum Rudder Lift-up
1.5.9 Setting the Main Rudder
1.5.9.1 Mechanical Wheel Steering
1.5.9.2 Hydraulic Wheel Steering
1.5.10 WINDPILOT and Autopilot
1.5.10.1 Configuration
2.0 SAILING WITH YOUR WINDPILOT
2.1 WINDPILOT System Requirements
2.2 Sailing with Your Windpilot: Quick Guide
2.3 Sailing with Your Windpilot: Comprehensive Guide
2.3.1 System Not in Use
2.3.2 Preparing for Use

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2.3.3 Keep an Eye on the Course
2.3.4 Altering Course/Turning
2.3.5 Fine Trim
2.3.6 Overload Protection in Heavy Weather
2.3.6.1 Recentring the Windvane and Auxiliary Rudder
2.3.6.2 Disabling the Overload Protection
2.3.6.3 Preparing for Use - Alternative Procedure
2.3.7 Setting the Windvane for Different Wind Strengths
2.3.8 The Ideal Windvane Position
2.3.9 Emergency Rudder
2.3.10 WINDPILOT and Autopilot
2.3.11 Switching Back to Manual Steering
2.3.11.1 Emergency
2.3.11.2 Normal Use
2.3.12 Removing the System to Use a Tender/in Harbour/for
Winter Storage
3.0 CAUTION
4.0 MAINTENANCE
4.1 Bearings
4.2 Cleaning
4.3 Pendulum Rudder Bevel Gear Linkage
4.4 Pendulum Rudder - Auxiliary Rudder Coupling
4.5 Push Rod
4.6 Worm Gear
4.7 Cast and Tubular Components
4.8 Lanolin
4.9 Antifouling
4.10 Windvane
4.11 Windvane Telltale
5.0 TROUBLESHOOTING
5.1 System Performance is Not Satisfactory
5.1.1 Position of Pendulum Rudder Blade
5.1.2 The Pendulum Rudder is Not Moving 25 Degrees to Each
Side
5.2 System is Sticking
5.2.1 At the Windvane
5.2.2 At the Pendulum Rudder Axle
5.2.2.1 Disassembly Procedure
5.2.2.2 Assembly Procedure
5.2.3 At the Auxiliary Rudder
5.2.3.1 Resetting the Coupling
5.3 The Push Rod is Bent
5.4 The Windvane Shaft is Loose
5.5 The Rudder Blade is Vibrating
6.0 REPAIRS
6.1 Removing the Gear Segment from the Auxiliary Rudder

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6.2 Fitting the Gear Segment on the Auxiliary Rudder
6.3 Miscellaneous
6.4 The Pendulum Rudder Blade
6.5 The Auxiliary Rudder Blade

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WELCOME …
… to the world of silent self-steering!
Prepare to be pleasantly surprised by your new windvane steering system: life aboard
will never be the same again!
Learn to trust your new live-aboard guest. Enjoy the moment you realise it can steer
with the kind of stamina and prolonged precision we can only dream of. Hand over to
your tireless new mate and make the most of all the time it leaves you for other things.
Life aboard will become much more relaxed; time at sea will be generally more
restful. And those long trips that were once all but inconceivable are now very much
within your grasp.
We at WINDPILOT are almost as single-minded as our windvane gears. We have
been continuously developing and refining our systems for more than 30 years now -
and all that experience comes free with every system sold. You will notice the
difference: we have left no stone unturned!
KISS (keep it simple, stupid) - that’s the motto we live by at WINDPILOT. We
realise that manuals are probably well down your list of reading priorities, but there
are mistakes to be made and they can be avoided. Good advice is particularly valuable
at sea, especially if you have it there on board with you, so take a deep breath and
read on…
You expect good steering from your WINDPILOT and it, in turn, has certain
expectations of you:
- DON’T NEGLECT YOUR SAIL TRIM
Poor trim amplifies weather helm, which means more pressure on the rudder and less
boat speed. Don’t sail with the handbrake on! A well trimmed boat heels less and
requires less pressure on the rudder. That means it sails faster. Adjust the mast, trim
the sails: try it, you have plenty of time!
- BE AWARE OF THE CONDITIONS
Some combinations of wind and sea conditions will be too much for your windvane
gear: imagine trying to steer around breaking waves with your eyes closed, for
example.
- MAKE SURE YOUR WINDPILOT IS PROPERLY INSTALLED
Install it with care, treat it well and be prepared to give it a little attention now and
again.
- TALK TO US, PREFERABLY RIGHT FROM THE START
If you would like confirmation that your system is properly installed and that
everything is just right, send us a few photos of your WINDPILOT set up and ready
for action. Pictures tell it like it is and make it easier for us to help you.
You have our word on it - lazy days at sea await… at least as far as steering is
concerned…
Peter Förthmann

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PACIFIC PLUS
1.0 INSTALLATION
1.1 TOOLS
−rule
−pencil
−2.5 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm and 10 mm Allen keys (included in delivery
package)
−9 mm and 10.5 mm drill bits
−10 mm, 17 mm and 19 mm ring/fork wrench/spanner
−Sikaflex sealing compound
−rubber mallet
−drill
1.2 INSTALLATION OPTIONS
MP 0 standard bracket left/right 900/910
MP 1 standard bracket with extension left/right 920
MP 2 standard bracket with tubular extension left/right 930
MP 3 standard bracket with tubular extension and cross brace 940/941/955
Where two digits are given, the first refers to the UPPER mounting bracket type and
the second to the LOWER mounting bracket type.
EXAMPLES OF DESIGNATIONS USED
MP 10 upper mounting bracket type 1, lower type 0
MP 01 upper mounting bracket type 0, lower type 1
MP 12 upper mounting bracket type 1, lower type 2
MP 31 upper mounting bracket type 3, lower type 1
MP 30 upper mounting bracket type 3, lower type 0
MP 13 upper mounting bracket type 1, lower type 3
1.3 POINTS TO CONSIDER BEFORE INSTALLATION
1.3.1 ASSEMBLING THE SYSTEM AFTER DELIVERY
PENDULUM RUDDER MODULE
−The pendulum rudder module was partially assembled before leaving our
premises.
−Place the base of the windvane assembly 130 on windvane shaft 140 and fasten
with the Allen key (5 mm) such that bolt 132 engages in the hole in the windvane
shaft 140.
−Guide push rod 150 through ring 152 from below.
−Set washer 153 and nut 154 on the top of the push rod and tighten.
−Now unscrew nut 154 very slightly (1/8 of a turn).
−The windvane assembly should now be able to rotate freely about the push rod
150.
AUXILIARY RUDDER MODULE
−The auxiliary rudder module was fully assembled before leaving our premises.

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−Take care when unpacking the system that clamp 810 does not scrape against the
auxiliary rudder blade (fix with tape). This can leave a horrible gouge on the blade
otherwise.
−The mounting components for the transom have not been assembled.
1.3.2 POSITIONING THE SYSTEM
−Your WINDPILOT should be installed at the centre of the transom.
−Off-centre installation is possible (max. 10 cm/4 in) but not ideal.
−If your boat has a centrally mounted bathing ladder, it should be relocated to one
side.
−TIP: install the PACIFIC PLUS first, then sort out the bathing ladder.
−Tie safety lines to all components before you start.
−Secure clamps 860 on the mounting bracket with tape.
−Coat the mounting bolts with lanolin or Duralac.
−Should I use a spirit level? No, boats are never perfectly level; it is better to trust
your eye.
1.3.3 BAD AIR AND THE WINDVANE
−The windvane should not be subject to disturbed airflows in its working position.
NO PROBLEM
−Bad air from a sprayhood: the sprayhood is normally far enough from the stern not
to be a problem.
−Bad air around davits - provided the dinghy is not still hanging from them!
−Bad air from the superstructure
−Bad air off the mainsail (sloop/cutter)
−Bad air caused by people in the cockpit
PROBLEM
−Bad air off the mizzen sail
−Bad air caused by an outboard motor on the pushpit
−Bad air caused by fenders/liferaft on the pushpit
−Bad air caused by a dinghy on the davits
1.3.4 AUXILIARY RUDDER AND MAIN RUDDER
−Turbulence from the main rudder can reduce the effectiveness of the auxiliary
rudder. The auxiliary rudder should therefore ideally be at least 35 cm/14 in
behind the main rudder (see 2.0 Sailing with Your WINDPILOT).
1.3.5 ON LAND OR IN THE WATER?
−You can fit your WINDPILOT with the boat ashore or afloat: it doesn’t really
matter, as all the holes are above the waterline.
−But you may be able to find the height above the waterline for installation more
easily with the boat in the water.
1.4 INSTALLATION: QUICK GUIDE
1.4.1 THE FIVE CRITERIA
1 - Installation height: the top of the auxiliary rudder blade should be about 10 cm/4
in above the static waterline.
THE FIRST AUXILIARY RUDDER BRACKET

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2 - Fit the UPPER bracket first on canoe, traditional overhanging and exactly vertical
sterns; fit the LOWER bracket first on forward-raked and sugar scoop sterns.
3 - Fit the pendulum rudder module onto the auxiliary rudder module.
4 - Align the system: the windvane shaft 140 must be vertical!
THE SECOND AUXILIARY RUDDER BRACKET
5 - Fit the remaining auxiliary rudder bracket.
1.5 INSTALLATION: COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE
−Remember the five criteria.
1.5.1 HEIGHT ABOVE THE WATERLINE
−The rudder shaft has been manufactured to the correct length for your boat.
−The dynamic waterline should cover the auxiliary rudder blade.
−The rudder will project some distance above the static waterline.
−Ideal installation height: the top of the auxiliary rudder blade should be about 10-
20 cm/4-8 in above the static waterline.
1.5.2 VERTICAL, CANOE AND TRADITIONAL OVERHANGING STERNS
1.5.2.1 MAKING THE FIRST CONNECTION
−Install the UPPER bracket first.
−Is the toe rail likely to be useful or get in the way?
−Decide whether to fit the upper bracket to the toe rail at deck height or through the
transom below deck level (see 1.5.1 Height above the Waterline).
1.5.2.2 THE MOUNTING BLOCK
−We have prepared a wooden block to help you with the installation process. The
block shows the precise clearance between the mounting faces on crown 500.
−On the block we have mounted either two brackets 900/910 or brackets 900/910
plus extension 920.
−Locate the block with the bracket/extensions and clamps 860 on the transom at the
appropriate installation height for the UPPER bracket.
−CAUTION: is everything ready on the inside of the transom?
−Rotate the four clamps 860 into place against the transom (use the mallet if
required).
−Start by drilling a single hole (predrill with the 9 mm bit then complete with the
10.5 mm bit).
−CAUTION: is everything still ok on the inside of the transom?
−Pass a bolt through the hole just drilled to hold the bracket in place.
−Align the bracket (level).
−Predrill three holes through the clamps (9 mm bit).
−Remove the bracket.
−Drill out all the holes with the 10.5 mm bit.
−Place sealing compound (Sikaflex) around each hole.
−Set the 60 mm diameter plastic discs on the Sikaflex compound.
−Fasten the bracket with all four bolts.
−Working inside the hull, set the washers on the bolt ends and tighten the
nuts/locknuts.

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−SEQUENCE: bolt head/stainless washer/plastic washer/clamp/60 mm plastic
disc/Sikaflex/transom/stainless washer/nut/nut
REMOVE THE WOODEN BLOCK AND FIT THE AUXILIARY RUDDER
MODULE
−Pass the bolts through the crown 500 and tighten until it is almost impossible to
move auxiliary rudder shaft 600 fore and aft.
−CAUTION: check that coupling lever 520 and ring 540 can move freely without
hitting the transom.
−If extension 920 has been fitted, the whole system can be adjusted up or down
around the transverse bolts.
−CAUTION: check the installation height.
1.5.2.3 MOUNTING THE PENDULUM RUDDER MODULE
−Release two bolts 504.
−Insert the pendulum rudder module into crown 500.
−Fasten the two bolts 504 in crown 500.
1.5.2.4 ALIGNMENT
−Check the alignment of the system.
−The PACIFIC PLUS may be adjusted fore and aft while it is only connected at the
UPPER mounting bracket.
−Windvane shaft 140 must be vertical!
−If the windvane shaft is vertical, the pendulum rudder shaft 420 will automatically
be at the correct 10 degree angle and the auxiliary rudder shaft 600 will
automatically be at the correct 5 degree angle. It is tough to distinguish a 5 or 10
degree angle by eye, but most people can recognise vertical without help. Make
sure the windvane shaft is vertical and the rest will look after itself!
FIX THE AUXILIARY RUDDER MODULE IN POSITION
−Once you are happy with the alignment, snug the transverse bolts in the crown
500 down tight.
−Tie the windvane shaft to the pushpit in the correctly aligned position using the
safety line.
−Check the alignment regularly until the lower bracket is fully installed.
1.5.2.5 FITTING THE CROSS BRACE
−The cross brace 940/945/955 is required only if the lower tubular aluminium struts
950 are longer than 50 cm/20 in.
−All units with lower struts 950 longer than 50 cm/20 in are delivered complete
with a cross brace.
−Fit the cross brace before fixing the lower mounting components to the transom.
−Bolt the cross brace firmly to the struts 950.
−Tighten bolts …, … and … so that the whole lower assembly remains in this
position.
1.5.2.6 MAKING THE SECOND CONNECTION
−CAUTION: before fixing the second bracket to the transom stand behind the boat
and check that the system is parallel with the mast.

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−Lateral corrections may be made by moving the bracket cheek 900/920 in the
clamps 860: loosen the bolts through the transom and align the system using the
rubber mallet.
−Loosely fasten the mounting components for the second/lower mounting point to
collar 610.
−Slide the collar along shaft 600 until the clamps are resting against the transom.
−Tighten bolts …, … and … so that the entire lower bracket is held in this position.
−Position the four clamps flush against the transom by hand or with the rubber
mallet.
−Predrill holes through the clamps using the 9 mm bit.
−Loosen the lower bracket without removing it.
−Rotate the bracket up/down as required.
−CAUTION: is everything ok on the inside of the transom?
−Drill out all the holes using the 10.5 mm bit.
−Place sealing compound (Sikaflex) around each hole.
−Set the 60 mm diameter plastic discs on the Sikaflex compound.
−Fasten the bracket with all four bolts.
−Working inside the hull, set the washers on the bolt ends and tighten the
nuts/locknuts.
−SEQUENCE: bolt head/stainless washer/plastic washer/clamp/60 mm plastic
disc/Sikaflex/transom/stainless washer/nut/nut
1.5.2.7 FORE AND AFT CORRECTION
−There is some scope for minor corrections to the position of the auxiliary rudder
shaft.
−Slacken off bolts …, … and ….
−Slide collar 610 up or down as required.
−Retighten all the bolts.
−It is acceptable for the system to be slightly (up to about 3 degrees) out of vertical.
1.5.2.8 LATERAL CORRECTION
−The lateral alignment of the system may be adjusted.
−Secure the whole system with a safety line at the top.
−Make sure the safety line is pulled tight.
−Slacken off all eight through-transom mounting bolts.
−Adjust the position of the brackets 900/910 in the clamps with the rubber mallet.
−Check the position and alignment of the system.
−If everything is lined up properly, retighten all the bolts.
−The position of the windvane shaft 140 can be corrected once screw 251 has been
slackened off.
−Retighten screw 251 when you have finished.
1.5.3 FORWARD-RAKED STERNS AND BATHING PLATFORMS
MAKING THE FIRST CONNECTION
THE MOUNTING BLOCK
−We have prepared a wooden block to help you with the installation process. The
block shows the precise clearance between the mounting faces on the collar 610.
abb
nur traverse

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−On the block we have mounted either two brackets 900/910 or brackets 900/910
plus extension 920.
−Locate the block with the bracket/extensions and clamps 860 on the transom at the
appropriate installation height for the LOWER bracket.
−CAUTION: is everything ready on the inside of the transom?
−Rotate the four clamps 860 into place against the transom (use the mallet if
required).
−Start by drilling a single hole (predrill with the 9 mm bit then complete with the
10.5 mm bit).
−CAUTION: is everything still ok on the inside of the transom?
−Pass a bolt through the hole just drilled to hold the bracket in place.
−Align the bracket (level).
−Predrill three holes through the clamps (9 mm bit).
−Remove the bracket.
−Drill out all the holes with the 10.5 mm bit.
−Place sealing compound (Sikaflex) around each hole.
−Set the 60 mm diameter plastic discs on the Sikaflex compound.
−Fasten the bracket with all four bolts.
−Working inside the hull, set the washers on the bolt ends and tighten the
nuts/locknuts.
−SEQUENCE: bolt head/stainless washer/plastic washer/clamp/60 mm plastic
disc/Sikaflex/transom/stainless washer/nut/nut
REMOVE THE WOODEN BLOCK AND FIT THE AUXILIARY RUDDER
MODULE
−Tighten collar 610 and bolt … until it is almost impossible to move the auxiliary
rudder module fore and aft.
−CAUTION: check that the auxiliary rudder shaft 600 is clear of the transom.
−If extension components 910 have been fitted, the whole system can be adjusted
up or down around bolts … and ….
−CAUTION: check the installation height. Do not finish tightening bolt … until
you are satisfied that the auxiliary rudder is at the correct height.
MOUNTING THE PENDULUM RUDDER MODULE
−Release two bolts 501.
−Insert the pendulum rudder module into crown 500.
−Fasten the two bolts in the crown.
ALIGNMENT
−Check the alignment of the system.
−The PACIFIC PLUS may be adjusted fore and aft while it is only connected at the
LOWER mounting bracket.
−Windvane shaft 140 must be vertical!
−If the windvane shaft is vertical, the pendulum rudder shaft 400 will automatically
be at the correct 10 degree angle and the auxiliary rudder shaft 600 will
automatically be at the correct 5 degree angle. It is tough to distinguish a 5 or 10
degree angle by eye, but most people can recognise vertical without help. Make
sure the windvane shaft is vertical and the rest will look after itself!
FIX THE AUXILIARY RUDDER MODULE POSITION
abb

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−Once you are happy with the alignment, snug bolts … down tight.
−Tie the windvane shaft to the pushpit in the correctly aligned position using the
safety line.
−Check the alignment regularly until the upper bracket is fully installed.
FITTING THE CROSS BRACE
−The cross brace is required only if the upper tubular aluminium struts 950 are
longer than 50 cm/20 in.
−All units with upper struts 950 longer than 50 cm/20 in are delivered complete
with a cross brace.
−Fit the cross brace 940/945/955 before fixing the upper mounting components to
the transom.
−Bolt the cross brace firmly to the struts.
−Tighten bolts …, … and … so that the whole upper assembly remains in this
position.
MAKING THE SECOND CONNECTION
−CAUTION: before fixing the second bracket to the transom stand behind the boat
and check that the system is parallel with the mast.
−Lateral corrections may be made by moving the bracket cheek 900/910 in the
clamps 860: loosen the bolts through the transom and align the system using the
rubber mallet.
−Loosely fasten the mounting components for the second/upper mounting point to
crown 500.
−Place the whole mounting assembly including the crown against the stern until the
clamps are resting against the transom.
−Tighten bolts …, … and … so that the entire upper bracket is held in this position.
−Position the four clamps flush against the transom by hand or with the rubber
mallet.
−Predrill holes through the clamps using the 9 mm bit.
−Loosen the lower bracket without removing it.
−Rotate the bracket up/down as required.
−CAUTION: is everything ok on the inside of the transom?
−Drill out all the holes using the 10.5 mm bit.
−Place sealing compound (Sikaflex) around each hole.
−Set the 60 mm diameter plastic discs on the Sikaflex compound.
−Fasten the bracket with all four bolts.
−Working inside the hull, set the washers on the bolt ends and tighten the
nuts/locknuts.
−SEQUENCE: bolt head/stainless washer/plastic washer/clamp/60 mm plastic
disc/Sikaflex/transom/stainless washer/nut/nut
1.5.3.1 FORE AND AFT CORRECTION
−There is some scope for minor corrections to the position of the auxiliary rudder
shaft 600.
−Slacken off bolts …, … and ….
−Slide the auxiliary rudder shaft up or down in the collar 610 as required.
−Retighten all the bolts.
−It is acceptable for the system to be slightly (up to about 3 degrees) out of vertical.

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1.5.3.2 LATERAL CORRECTION
−The lateral alignment of the system may be adjusted.
−Secure the whole system with a safety line at the top.
−Make sure the safety line is pulled tight.
−Loosen all eight through-transom mounting bolts.
−Adjust the position of the brackets 900/910 in the clamps 860 with the rubber
mallet.
−Check the position and alignment of the system.
−If everything is lined up properly, retighten all the bolts.
1.5.4 BE AWARE
−The bolts must be properly seated and tightened. If the bolts work loose, the whole
system could be lost.
−The vibrations from regular motoring can loosen screwed and bolted connections.
−Locknuts are not absolutely infallible.
−Your PACIFIC PLUS is supplied with two nuts for each bolt. They should both be
kept tight.
−If blocks or plates are used inside the transom, make sure that they rest flat against
the inside surface of the transom. If they are not flat, the bolt will continuously
work against the joint and loosen it.
−Check the mounting bolts regularly!
−Attach a safety line to your PACIFIC PLUS just in case.
−Do you have a composite sandwich transom? If so, check it carefully.
1.5.5 DO I NEED TO REINFORCE THE TRANSOM?
−No, as the forces on the transom are distributed over eight M10 bolts and the
overall contact surface of the eight clamps is more than adequate.
−The washers supplied provide sufficient load distribution for steel, aluminium,
wooden and composite (solid laminate) hulls.
−Composite hulls built in sandwich laminate: cut the sandwich out from the inside
and replace with wood. The wooden sections should be glued into place with
synthetic filler (load distribution).
−CAUTION: If you decide you want to fit steel/stainless/aluminium transom
reinforcement plates anyway, just in case, be sure to pack them in with filler so
that the loads are properly distributed!
1.5.6 WHAT IF THE SYSTEM IS ALIGNED INCORRECTLY?
−No problem: release the mounting bolts and use the rubber mallet to move the
clamps along the bracket cheeks 900/910 until the alignment is satisfactory (see
1.5.2.4 Alignment).
1.5.7 REMOTE CONTROL
−Lead the thin red line supplied through the slot in windvane shaft 250 and around
the knurled red knob 270.
−Knot the two ends of the line together and secure the line in the cockpit with
bungee cord.
−To operate the remote control, take the line in both hands and pull on one side of
the loop with one hand while paying the other side out without tension with the
other hand. Never pull on one side with both hands!

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1.5.8 THE PENDULUM RUDDER
1.5.8.1 MOUNTING THE RUDDER BLADE
−The blade should be mounted with the rounded edge facing forward and the sharp
edge facing aft.
1.5.8.2 POSITIONING THE RUDDER BLADE
−The pendulum rudder blade must be angled down and aft exactly in line with the
rudder shaft, otherwise the balance will be off.
−Adjusting the rudder blade aft reduces the force generated (by reducing the
balance proportion).
−Adjusting the rudder blade forward increases the balance proportion excessively,
with the result that the rudder controls the windvane instead of the other way
around.
−Both the adjustments described impair the performance of the system and make
steering problems inevitable.
1.5.8.3 OVERLOAD PROTECTION
−Mounting bolt 435 for the rudder blade 440 should be tightened gently so that the
rudder blade can still swing up if it strikes something below the water.
−The rudder blade is retained in the shaft fork by friction only.
1.5.8.4 PENDULUM RUDDER LIFT-UP
−Tie one end of the red lift-up line through ring 431 and secure the other end to the
pushpit.
−Raise the pendulum rudder, take the red line once around the windvane shaft 140
and rudder shaft 420 and tie it back to the pushpit.
−It is not possible to raise the pendulum rudder out of the water while the boat is
moving as the resistance is generally too high. The boat must be almost stationary
before lift-up becomes possible.
−The pendulum rudder may be dropped back into the operating position at any
time.
1.5.9 SETTING THE MAIN RUDDER
−You must have a reliable method of locking the main rudder in position if the
PACIFIC PLUS is to perform properly. The lever fitted on many wheel steering
systems is often insufficient, being designed to hold the rudder still when the boat
is on its moorings rather than to resist the dynamic forces encountered at sea. If
the lock allows the main rudder to wander while the PACIFIC PLUS is steering,
the boat will veer unpredictably and effective self-steering will be lost.
1.5.9.1 MECHANICAL WHEEL STEERING
−Modern wheel steering systems (e.g. Whitlock) often have a disc brake type
locking system, which secures the rudder much more reliably than a simple
clamping device.
−Whatever method you use to lock the main rudder, it should be easily accessible
and easy to adjust - as conditions change you will need to fine trim the rudder
position to maintain optimal self-steering.
−CAUTION: make sure your rudder lock can be disengaged quickly in an
emergency!

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LOCKING THE WHEEL
−Lock the wheel in place with lines running to Curry or clamcleats on either side of
the wheel. Ideally the cleats should be positioned between the binnacle and the
cockpit seats.
−Alternatively lock the wheel in place with a blocking device mounted on the rim.
This option is particularly good on boats with a bulkhead-mounted wheel.
1.5.9.2 HYDRAULIC WHEEL STEERING
−You must be able reliably to lock the main rudder in position.
−Check to see if the system has a locking device. Does the main rudder stay locked
in place when you let go of the wheel?
−Does the centre spoke stay centred?
−Does the hydraulic cylinder give to allow movement at the wheel?
−Is the system free of leaks?
−Turn the wheel all the way to one side until it reaches the end stop and hold it
there for a short while. Can you now turn the wheel a little further to that side?
−If the boat is ashore, try turning the main rudder by hand. Does it move?
LOCKING THE WHEEL
−Fit a new locking device.
−Replace the seals on the hydraulic cylinder.
−If the centre spoke does stay centred, lash it in place with lines (see 1.5.9.1
Mechanical Wheel Steering).
−If nothing else works, fit the emergency tiller and lash that in place with lines.
−CAUTION: the PACIFIC PLUS will only function properly on a boat with
hydraulic wheel steering if the main rudder can be reliably locked in place. The
same is true of boats with multiple wheels (e.g. inside and outside steering).
1.5.10 WINDPILOT AND AUTOPILOT
1.5.10.1 CONFIGURATION
−A pin suitable for connecting an Autohelm or Navico push rod autopilot is
included as standard on the windvane hanger 110 of every WINDPILOT system.
−Find a good spot to attach the cockpit autopilot to the pushpit. The autopilot
should be at approximately the same height as the pin on the windvane hanger.
−Rotate the windvane shaft into a position where the autopilot push rod can move
through its full travel from stop to stop unimpeded as it moves the windvane
hanger from side to side. Mark this position on the windvane shaft.
−Fit the mount for the autopilot to the pushpit (e.g. on a wooden block on the
railing).
−The autopilot/windvane combination should only be used to steer compass
courses.
−The autopilot/windvane combination will not perform well motoring in calm
conditions as turbulence from the propeller interferes with the proper operation of
the pendulum rudder. The autopilot should be connected directly to the tiller or
wheel in these conditions; since the engine is running, there is no need to save
power by using the windvane anyway.
−See 2.0 Sailing with Your WINDPILOT for operating instructions.
−CAUTION: always secure the autopilot with a safety line!

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2.0 SAILING WITH YOUR WINDPILOT
2.1 WINDPILOT SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS
−The pendulum rudder shaft is long enough to provide plenty of leverage for the
pendulum rudder.
−The bevel gear linkage on the pendulum rudder module is working properly to
provide automatic yaw damping.
−The system is sensitive in light airs but powerful in stronger wind conditions.
−The pendulum rudder and auxiliary rudder modules are properly matched.
−The effective angular range of the auxiliary rudder from side to side is sufficient
to handle the course corrections required.
−The PACIFIC PLUS is correctly positioned on the transom.
−The system has adequate leverage (i.e. is sufficiently far from the boat’s centre of
lateral resistance).
−Weather helm and any other consistent imbalances in the boat’s trim are
compensated for by the position of the main rudder and the PACIFIC PLUS is
free to concentrate on transient course corrections.
2.2 SAILING WITH YOUR WINDPILOT: QUICK GUIDE
−Bring the boat onto course.
−Lock the main rudder in position.
−Lower the pendulum rudder blade into the water.
−Fix the windvane hanger on centre with catch 133.
−Loosen coupling 523 and pivot it aft until it is fully engaged.
−Retighten the coupling.
−CAUTION: check that the indicators on the two gear segments are aligned
correctly.
−Release the windvane catch.
−Fit the windvane.
−Set the windvane into the wind (it should stand upright).
−Fine trim the course by adjusting the position of the main rudder.
−Make large course adjustments either by hand or using the remote control.
2.3 SAILING WITH YOUR WINDPILOT: COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE
2.3.1 SYSTEM NOT IN USE
−Keep the pendulum rudder blade in the lift-up position.
−Remove the windvane.
−Centre the windvane hanger with catch 133.
−Pivot coupling lever 523 forward (towards the boat) and tighten it down to lock
the auxiliary rudder on centre.
2.3.2 PREPARING FOR USE
−Bring the boat onto course and check your sail trim.
−Lock the main rudder in position (see 1.5.9 Setting the Main Rudder).
−NOTE: ensure that the boat sails straight once the main rudder is locked in
position. It will normally be necessary to lock the rudder slightly off-centre to
counter the persistent effects of weather helm etc.

16
−Lower the pendulum rudder into the water.
−Fix the windvane hanger 110 on centre with catch 133. This will also hold the
pendulum rudder on centre and prevent it moving while the rest of the system is
being set up.
−Loosen coupling 523 by three turns and pivot it aft until it is full engaged.
−NOTE: if the coupling lever is not loosened sufficiently, it will not pivot aft and
engage with the pendulum rudder.
−CAUTION: check that the indicators on the two gear segments 380/530 are
aligned correctly.
−Retighten the coupling.
−Fit the windvane (the counterweight 120 should now be pointing into the wind).
−Release the windvane catch.
−Turn the windvane by hand or using the remote control until it is standing upright
in its centred position.
−NOTE: the windvane is only properly centred if it is standing absolutely upright It
is important to centre the windvane correctly as any errors here reduce the
effective steering range of the system on one side.
2.3.3 KEEP AN EYE ON THE COURSE
−Minor course adjustments can be made by tweaking the position of the main
rudder (at the wheel).
−Larger course adjustments should be made at the windvane either by hand or
using the remote control (at worm gear 270).
2.3.4 ALTERING COURSE/TURNING
−First set the windvane shaft to the new course (rotate the shaft as quickly as
possible). The windvane may be adjusted either by hand or using the remote
control; the degree scale on the windvane shaft will help you find the correct
position.
−Release the main rudder and turn it onto the new course as well. Using both
rudders speeds up the turn considerably.
−Once the boat is on the new course, lock the main rudder in position again.
−Adjust the position of the main rudder until the trim is satisfactory.
2.3.5 FINE TRIM
−Weather helm grows more pronounced as the wind strength increases. Adjust the
main rudder position appropriately as conditions change.
−The windvane should work evenly around the upright position most of the time. If
it is permanently off to one side, adjust your sail trim or reef down.
−NOTE: weather helm slows you down. Sailing with too much weather helm is like
driving with the handbrake on. You can tell if your trim could/should be improved
just by looking at the wake. If there is substantial turbulence below the surface
(wash from the keel), something needs to be done!
−CAUTION: larger, heavier boats may need to reach a relatively high boat speed
before the pendulum arm starts to move through its full lateral range.
−The force generated by the servo system is always dependent on leverage, rudder
area and speed. These factors are the product of physical laws, the consequences
of which are inescapable!
2.3.6 OVERLOAD PROTECTION IN HEAVY WEATHER

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−The maximum working range of the pendulum arm from side to side in normal
operation is approximately 25-28 degrees.
−The 2:1 bevel gear linkage ensures that the pendulum rudder is always reset back
to its neutral position (although the pendulum arm may still appear to be off-
centre).
−If the pendulum arm swings outside its normal working range (only possible as a
result of external influences), the bevel gear linkage works even harder to reset the
pendulum rudder to the neutral position.
−The windvane alone can never displace the pendulum rudder arm more than 25-28
degrees to one side. The Aries and Monitor servo-pendulum systems both have a
framework for the steering line transmission blocks that extends down alongside
the pendulum arm and would prevent the arm from moving to one side by more
than the normal working range. The bevel gear linkage brings the pendulum
rudder back into the centre before it has a chance to exceed the normal working
range. If such extreme lateral excursions were possible, we would expect to see
Aries and Monitor systems with bent pendulum arms and/or bent transmission
block frames. This simply does not happen!
−Although the normal working range of the pendulum rudder amounts to no more
than 25-28 degrees to each side (i.e. a total angular range of 56 degrees), the
nature of the design means that it is actually free to swing through 270 degrees
(for lift-up etc.).
−The pendulum arm may be driven beyond its normal working range in certain
extreme conditions. Confused seas and a pitching, slow-moving boat can conspire
to push the pendulum rudder so far to one side that it all but leaves the water; with
no steady flow of water across the rudder blade the system effectively ceases to
function.
−The system is designed such that gear segment 380, which attaches to the
pendulum arm, disengages from segment 530, which attaches to the auxiliary
rudder, if the pendulum arm swings more than 45 degrees to one side. This
position corresponds to an auxiliary rudder angle of attack of 38 degrees. Since
the flow of water begins to separate from the auxiliary rudder at an angle of attack
of around 18 degrees, the auxiliary rudder (and hence the PACIFIC PLUS) will be
completely ineffective long before the two segments disengage anyway.
−The system will only resume operating once the pendulum arm has returned to
centre and the two segments have re-engaged.
−CAUTION: since the auxiliary rudder will normally return to centre faster than
the pendulum arm after such an extreme excursion, it is likely that the segments
will not be properly aligned (typically they will be two or three teeth out) when
they reengage. This means that the windvane and the auxiliary rudder will not be
centred with respect to each other and the system will not maintain the desired
heading.
2.3.6.1 RECENTRING THE WINDVANE AND AUXILIARY RUDDER
−Steer the boat by hand.
−Disengage the coupling and bring the two segments back into alignment.
2.3.6.2 DISABLING THE OVERLOAD PROTECTION
−If you wish for safety reasons to prevent the two segments from disengaging,
secure the pendulum arm with a thin line (2 mm should be sufficient) so that it
stops just before the gears would otherwise separate.

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−Tie the thin line through the ring on the pendulum rudder.
−Lead it through ring … on the bronze bearing on the auxiliary rudder shaft 630
and fasten it on deck in the position required.
−Mark the maximum permissible pendulum arm travel before you set sail and tie a
wooden or plastic ball into the thin line so that the ball reaches the ring on the
auxiliary rudder shaft and stops the line running just before the arm reaches the
maximum permissible travel.
2.3.6.3 PREPARING FOR USE - ALTERNATIVE PROCEDURE
−Start with the system out of use and the pendulum rudder in the lift-up position.
−Loosely fasten the new thin line to the pushpit.
−Lower the pendulum rudder into the water.
−Tie the new thin line into the desired position. Check that the line limits the
pendulum arm travel as desired.
−You may also like to tie a wooden or plastic ball into the line as described above
(see 2.3.6.2 Disabling the Overload Protection) to ensure that the line functions as
intended.
−The lateral travel of the pendulum arm should be limited to around 40 degrees.
This should stop the coupling just before the last two teeth would otherwise
disengage.
−A thin line is sufficient for this purpose, as there is no hydrodynamic force acting
on the pendulum rudder in the position at which the line comes into play.
2.3.7 SETTING THE WINDVANE FOR DIFFERENT WIND STRENGTHS
LIGHT WINDS
−Set the windvane absolutely vertical for maximum sensitivity.
−The upright setting also provides maximum steering force with the wind from
astern.
−A strip of spinnaker cloth (‘windvane telltale’) on the upper trailing edge of the
vane further improves sensitivity.
−CAUTION: you should not need to use a larger windvane in light airs. If you do
use a larger vane, it must be exactly the same weight as the standard vane.
−This setting is particularly suitable for sailing with the wind aft of the beam, when
the apparent wind strength is always relatively low.
MODERATE WINDS
−Set the windvane angled back 20 degrees away from the wind.
−This position is the general setting for sailing with the wind forward of the beam
(relatively high apparent winds).
STRONG WINDS
−Angle the windvane further back from the wind (more damping).
−If the windvane begins to vibrate in very strong winds, try angling it back even
further. The vane can go as far as about 70 degrees back, which should improve
damping and give smoother steering impulses (and hence better steering).
−This position is the general heavy air setting.
2.3.8 THE IDEAL WINDVANE POSITION
−The windvane should always be working evenly around the upright position.

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−If all the movement is occurring on one side, i.e. between the upright position and
one of the end stops, adjust the wheel position until the movement is more evenly
distributed.
−If the windvane is permanently well over to one side, correct the course setting at
the windvane shaft either manually or using the remote control (check the degree
scale).
−NOTE: the reading on the scale at the windvane shaft 140 may differ slightly from
the reading on your wind instrument. This is because wind conditions at deck
level tend to be different from those at the top of the mast.
2.3.9 EMERGENCY RUDDER
−The PACIFIC PLUS makes an effective emergency rudder if the main rudder is
damaged or disabled.
−Remove windvane 100.
−Rotate windvane shaft 140 until the windvane hanger is perpendicular to the
centreline of the boat. You should now be able to steer the boat by moving the
hanger backwards and forwards with the boat hook.
−NOTE: you are now steering through a servo-assisted system, so you should not
have to apply much force to the windvane hanger.
−CAUTION: the arrangement described will only work while the boat is moving
forwards and will not work at all for manoeuvring in harbour. The pendulum
rudder is useless without a flow of water across its surface.
−CAUTION: the auxiliary rudder is considerably smaller than the main rudder and
is consequently considerably less powerful.
−TIP: pay particular attention to sail trim and reef early if need be to reduce the
loads on the emergency rudder.
2.3.10 WINDPILOT AND AUTOPILOT
PREPARING FOR USE
−Remove the windvane.
−Turn the windvane shaft to the marked position.
−Fit and secure the cockpit autopilot.
−Connect the power supply.
−Switch the cockpit autopilot from standby to on.
−CAUTION: check the polarity at the autopilot. If it turns to starboard when you
request port, you need to reverse the polarity.
−Reversing the polarity should be a simple two button function on most of today’s
cockpit autopilots (check the manual).
−TIP: the PACIFIC PLUS/autopilot combination only makes sense on a larger boat
(9 metric tons or heavier) with wheel steering if the boat has no conventional
cockpit wheel autopilot. It is normally advisable to use the boat’s inboard
autopilot when motoring, as turbulence from the propeller can easily set up
vibrations in the PACIFIC PLUS.
2.3.11 SWITCHING BACK TO MANUAL STEERING
2.3.11.1 EMERGENCY
−There is no need to disengage the PACIFIC PLUS.
−Release the wheel lock and begin to steer by hand.

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−NOTE: the main rudder is large enough to overcome the efforts of the PACIFIC
PLUS, so you can leave it engaged during emergency manoeuvres if necessary.
2.3.11.2 NORMAL USE
−Release the wheel lock and begin to steer by hand.
−Remove the windvane.
−Close the windvane hanger catch 133.
−Closing the windvane hanger catch locks the pendulum rudder on centre, so the
PACIFIC PLUS is now effectively disabled. You can now steer the boat as normal
with no interference whatsoever from the PACIFIC PLUS.
−Lift up the pendulum rudder using the line.
−CAUTION: slow down before attempting to lift up the pendulum rudder. If the
boat is moving too fast, there will be too much resistance to raise the pendulum
rudder.
−The pendulum rudder may actually be left in the water without doing any harm,
but don’t forget to lift it up out of the way before entering harbour/manoeuvring
under engine.
2.3.12 REMOVING THE SYSTEM TO USE A TENDER/IN HARBOUR/FOR
WINTER STORAGE
−Remove the windvane.
−Remove the pendulum rudder blade.
−Secure the pendulum rudder module with a safety line.
−Release bolt 504, remove the pendulum rudder module completely and stow it
below deck.
−CAUTION: When fitting/removing the pendulum rudder module be sure never to
handle/lift it by the windvane shaft 140 alone. The shaft is retained on the worm
gear 260 by just two bolts (M4) and is not designed to bear the weight of the
whole unit.
−The system is best handled/lifted using the casting 250 at the base of the windvane
shaft.
−The auxiliary rudder module can safely be left on the transom. If you do wish to
remove the auxiliary rudder as well, undo and remove transverse bolts … and …,
secure the module with a safety line and then carefully remove it from the
mounting brackets.
3.0 CAUTION
−The WINDPILOT PACIFIC PLUS is a servo-dynamic system.
−Keep hands well away from the pendulum arm when the system is in operation
(trap hazard).
−Take care when adjusting the windvane shaft manually (e.g. changing course)
while the vane is in operation: moving parts can be dangerous.
−Take care when engaging and disengaging the system to ensure that hands, lines
and other objects do not become trapped between the two coupling gears.
−Close catch 133 to stop the pendulum rudder moving.
−The pendulum rudder can only be raised into the lift-up position at boat speeds of
less than 2 knots.
−The pendulum rudder may be dropped back into the operating position at any
time.