Wooden-Gear-Clocks Clockerel Manual

Wooden Gear Clocks UK
316 Pickering Road, Hull, East Yorkshire, UK Tel [phone]
http://wooden-gear-clocks.co.uk/
Build Manual for “Clockerel” Electromechanical Wooden Geared Clock
Thank you for purchasing the “Clockerel” electromechanical clock kit from Wooden Gear Clocks UK. We called it
the “Clockerel” as it resembles a flightless bird of some kind, probably, but not exclusively, a Clockerel.
The aim of this manual is to make the construction of this kit enjoyable, safe and rewarding. The clock is
powered by 4 x D cell Alkaline batteries.
SAFETY
Always read and digest any safety instructions that came with your tools. Wooden Gear Clocks do not accept
any responsibility for any injuries incurred during the construction of this clock.
TOOLS
The tools required to carry out this build are as follows:
A bench vice (fitted with jaw protectors) is desirable but not essential.
An electric drill, preferably battery operated.
A square file, approximately ¼” and a flat file approximately 15mm wide.
A sharp chisel approximately 12mm wide.
Soldering iron, solder etc.
Rapid setting epoxy resin e.g. Araldite
PVA wood glue
Sanding Block
Shellac, color up to the customer.
Plastic “Scotchbrite” washingup pad. 1-2 required.
Aluminium oxide abrasive paper. Grade 80, 120 and 180.
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Wooden Gear Clocks UK
316 Pickering Road, Hull, East Yorkshire, UK Tel [phone]
http://wooden-gear-clocks.co.uk/
Aerosol can of automotive clear spray lacquer.
Jig as drawing Clockerel-0016
8mm drill bit or countersink bit
Flat 300mm steel rule
SKILLS
A knowledge of basic wood finishing techniques and the ability to read drawings. Basic soldering skills are also
required, but not essential as you could always get someone with the skills to perform these tasks. Six soldered
joints are required to complete the clock.
These instructions are to be read in conjunction with drawings Clockerel-0001 to 0017.
PARTS
Please check all parts against the parts list (BOM). If any parts are missing then please contact us immediately.
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Drawing Clockerel-0001
Carefully remove the cutter radii from the frame hole in item 2 with a sharp chisel or square file. This is
the most difficult part of the build and will reflect in quality of the finished clock. When these corners are
square trial fit the frame into the hole. If it is too tight then carefully sand the frame where it fits into the
hole. It is easier to make this part smaller than make the hole larger. Only a small amount of sanding
should be required.
Repeat this process with the switch hole and trial fit the switch.
Apply PVA adhesive to one of the mating surfaces and press together with part 1. Place the base on a
flat surface with a heavy object to sandwich the assembly. Ensure that the two parts are correctly
aligned around the edges. Leave for 4 hours and then finish as per preparation of the MDF parts.
2. Preparation of parts
MDF parts:
It is very important that the edges of these parts are well sanded to a smooth finish. The finish of the
edges will reflect in the overall appearance of the clock. All machining marks must be removed with 80
grade abrasive paper. Only sand in the direction of the edge, NOT across it. Sanding across the edge
could break away the veneer as well as not giving a good finish. Work your way down to the 180 grade
paper and finish with a Scotchbrite pad. The edges should now be smooth with an even texture. The
veneered side can be sanded with just the 180 grade abrasive paper and Scotchbrite, working in the
direction of the grain. Only a light sanding is required.
A
fter preparation apply shellac to all exterior surfaces and sand with a Scotchbrite when dry, paying
particular attention to the edges. Repeat this process until the edges are smooth with an even dark
texture (approximately 3 times).
Plywood parts:
The faces should be carefully sanded with 180 grade abrasive paper wrapped around a sanding block.
Lay the parts on a flat surface and carefully sand the faces in the direction of the grain. The faces can
also be sanded by gluing a sheet of 180 grade to a flat surface and rubbing the parts on this.
Wrap a small amount of 180 grade paper into the size of a flattened cigarette to do the inner edges and
teeth. Only sand the teeth to remove ragged edges. DO NOT sand too much as the profile of the teeth
may be effected. The faces of the parts may be treated with shellac as above if required.
3. Drawing Clockerel-0002
Countersink the 4 holes in the base cover (9) and screw to the base using the 4 screws (10). The holes
in the base (3) may need pilot drilling in order to insert the screws easily. Attach the 4 felt pads (11) to
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Wooden Gear Clocks UK
316 Pickering Road, Hull, East Yorkshire, UK Tel [phone]
http://wooden-gear-clocks.co.uk/
the cover as shown. Insert the frame (2) into the rectangular hole in the base paying attention to the
dimensions shown on the drawing. The tip should measure between 250 and 254mm from the base.
The frame should be glued with a small amount of adhesive in the bottom of the hole if it is not a tight fit.
The Frame assembly can then be lacquered to the required finish. Roll small pieces of card and insert
into the bearing and face holes to prevent a build up of lacquer inside the holes.
When the desired finish has been achieved the bearings can be fitted into the holes as shown in section
C-C. The bearings should be pressed partly into the holes using finger pressure. If they are too tight then
lightly sand the inside of the holes until the desired fit is achieved. Push the bearings fully home with the
flat side of a 25mm wide steel rule or similar. This ensures that the bearings are square and flush with
the face of the frame.
4. Clockerel-0003/0004
The electrical components should now be installed. Remove the base cover and hold the frame inverted
between your legs or place inverted on the edge of a table.
Cut 1 piece of red wire 260mm long and 1 piece 160mm long. Solder these to the switch terminals and
install into the frame with the wires passing through the hole. Solder the longer wire to the POSITIVE
terminal of the battery box. Cut 1 piece of black wire 140mm long and solder to the NEGATIVE terminal
of the battery box. Insert the battery box into the frame ensuring that the terminals are facing towards the
switch side of the clock.
Cut 1 piece of red wire 120mm long and 1 piece of black wire 120mm long. Solder the red wire to the
longer terminal of the LED and the black wire to the shorter terminal. Push a piece of the heat shrink
material over one of the terminals to prevent a short circuit between the terminals. Shrink this on with a
cigarette lighter, being careful not to burn it. Insert the LED into the hole in the base of the clock. Push
the LED to the mid point of the hole. If you require the LED to be visible then push it through the hole.
Place the coil into the frame recess paying attention to the orientation shown in drawing Clockerel-0004.
Burn or sand the lacquer from the coil terminals and connect these to the 2 center terminals of the circuit
board. Connect the LED wires as shown in the wiring schematic. Connect the black wire from the battery
box and the red wire from the switch to the circuit board as shown. Be careful to get these the correct
way round. The circuit board is not polarity protected due to resistance issues. Incorrect connection
would damage the board.
Insert the circuit board into the base as shown. Roll up some tissue paper and place above the coil to
keep this in position at the bottom of the recess once the cover has been replaced. Masking tape may
be used to keep the wires in the wiring grooves during installation.
5. Clockerel-0009 / 30 tooth wheel assembly
Cut part 1 to length from the short piece of 3mm diameter brass rod, not the long length. Make this part
46mm long as tolerances in wood thicknesses make this length difficult to define exactly. Using the one
bearing that is not fitted as a gauge, trial fit the rod into the bearing. It should be an easy sliding fit into
the inner race of the bearing. It may not be at this stage so place it into the battery drill and sand slightly
with 180 grade abrasive paper until a sliding fit is acquired. Turn it and repeat the other end being
careful not to re sand the section already done. The rod should now slide easily through the bearing but
not be slack.
Trial fit the shaft into the bearings in the frame. If it does not slide easily through both bearings then one
or both are misaligned. Investigate fit.
Inset the shaft 1 through the 3mm hole in the jig allowing 6mm to protrude (use wheel to measure this).
Place a small amount of epoxy inside the hole of part 2 and not on the shaft. This ensures that oozing
adhesive does not cause the part to stick to the jig. Place the wheel over the shaft ensuring that the best
side faces towards the front of the clock. Remove the part from the jig by pushing on the rod from
beneath and not by pulling the wheel. Remove it when the remaining mixed adhesive has dried.
Now place a small amount of adhesive on the shaft adjacent to and on part 2. Slide part 3 down the
shaft and into position. Allow to dry. This method of assembly ensures that adhesive does not get on the
shaft.
When the assembly is fully dried, slide part 3 down the shaft. Place a small amount of epoxy onto the
mating face of part 4 being careful not to get any into the hole. Push part 4 fully onto the shaft and slide
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Wooden Gear Clocks UK
316 Pickering Road, Hull, East Yorkshire, UK Tel [phone]
http://wooden-gear-clocks.co.uk/
part 3 back up to adhere to it. Leave until remaining epoxy mix has almost dried and then carefully
withdraw from the shaft without misaligning the parts. Allow it to dry thoroughly. Remove any epoxy from
the end of the shaft which may have leaked out.
The part can now be fitted to the clock temporarily with the 2 washers (5). The part should have
approximately 1mm of end float (side to side movement) when assembled in the frame. File the end of
the shaft until the desired end float is achieved. Ensure that part 4 is fitted fully onto the shaft. The part
should spin freely.
6. Clockerel-0008 / 60 tooth wheel assembly
Cut part 1 to length from the remaining 3mm diameter brass rod. Make this part 70mm long.
Repeat the basic assembly instructions as above for the 30 tooth wheel assembly.
7. Clockerel-0011 / 64 tooth wheel assembly
Cut part 1 to length from the remaining 3mm diameter brass rod. Make this part 112mm long.
Repeat the instructions as above for the 30 tooth wheel assembly and the 60 tooth wheel assembly.
This assembly cannot be adjusted for end float until the final assembly.
8. Clockerel-0006 / Ratchet wheel assembly
Cut part 1 to length from the remaining 3mm diameter brass rod. Make this part 51mm long.
Repeat the sanding instructions on the rod as above.
Place some epoxy resin inside the hole of part 2 and a small mount on the mating face. Position part 2
on the shaft as shown. Slide part 3 down the shaft and into position whilst holding part 1 so that it does
not push off. Allow the sub assembly to dry.
Lay part 4 on the assembly jig, paying attention to the orientation of the ratchet. The wheel should drive
in a clockwise direction as shown. Place a small amount of epoxy on the mating face of part 3 and a
small amount on the shaft adjacent to the mating face (no more than 6mm along the shaft). Push the
shaft through the hole in part 4 and through the hole in the jig until fully home. Leave to dry.
Remove from the jig as previously described and place a small amount of epoxy onto the mating face of
part 4. Push part 3 into position until full home.
The part can now be fitted to the clock temporarily with the 2 washers (5) and part 6. The part should
have approximately 1mm of end float (side to side movement) when assembled. File the end of the shaft
until the desired end float is achieved. Ensure that part 6 is fitted fully onto the shaft. The part should
spin freely.
9. Clockerel-0005 / Pendulum pawl assembly
Cut part 1 to length from the remaining 3mm diameter brass rod. Make this part 56mm long.
Repeat the sanding instructions on the rod as above.
Place some epoxy resin inside the hole of part 2. Position part 2 on the shaft as shown and allow it to
dry. Clean away any epoxy that has oozed from the hole with a sharp knife before it has full dried.
Lay part 3 on the assembly jig, paying attention to the orientation. Place a small amount of epoxy on the
mating face of part 2 and a small amount on the shaft adjacent to the mating face (no more than 6mm
along the shaft). Push the shaft through the hole in part 3 and through the hole in the jig until fully home.
Leave the sub assembly to dry.
Lay part 5 onto a flat surface viewed as shown in the bottom left view. Place a very small amount of
epoxy on the inside of the leading edge of the bearing hole. Push the bearing 8 squarely into place using
the flat side of a 25mm wide steel rule or similar until flush with the front surface of the part.
Remove the sub assembly from the jig. Cut part 10 to length. Make this part 16mm long. Place a small
amount of epoxy inside the hole in part 3 and insert the pin 10 from the back to ensure no epoxy gets
onto the shaft. Leave the part to dry.
Place a washer over the pin 10 followed by part 4 as shown. Secure the parts in place with part 11.
place a washer over the shaft 1 followed by part 4 as shown. A further 4 washers are placed along the
shaft followed by part 6. Part 5 should pivot freely at this point as the washers should ensure clearance
between it and the adjacent parts. If it does not pivot freely check the bearing 8 for freedom of rotation.
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Wooden Gear Clocks UK
316 Pickering Road, Hull, East Yorkshire, UK Tel [phone]
http://wooden-gear-clocks.co.uk/
The part can now be fitted to the temporarily with the 2 washers (9) and the part 7. Check for 1mm end
float and adjust shaft length as necessary.
10. Clockerel-0010 / Hour hand assembly
Cut part 1 to length. Make this part 54mm long. Clean the inside of the tube where it has been cut to
remove any rough edges.
Insert The tube into the assembly jig allowing approximately 18mm to protrude. Slide part 4 over the
tube until flush with the jig ensuring the best side faces the front of the clock. Approximately 12mm of
tube should now be protruding from the gear wheel 4. Place a small amount of epoxy on the tube
adjacent to the gear wheel. Gently tap the tube into the gear wheel until 6.5mm protrudes. Allow the sub
assembly to dry.
Remove the sub assembly from the jig as described earlier. Place a small amount of epoxy onto the
mating face of part 4. Slide part 3 along the tube until flush. Repeat this process for the remaining 4
spacers and allow it to dry.
When dry position the hour hand 2 and the last spacer 3 onto the tube as shown. The hour hand should
be firm on the shaft without being too difficult to turn. If the tube protrudes beyond part 3 then file it down
until it is as shown.
Set the assembly aside.
11. Clockerel-0007 / Pendulum shaft assembly
Cut part 1 to length from the 1/8” wooden dowel. Make this part 270mm long initially. Screw item 4 onto
one end approximately 30mm as shown. Screw item 2 onto the shaft as shown about 4 turns. Place the
magnet, item 3 onto item 2 as shown.
Set the assembly aside.
12. Clockerel-0013 / Face assembly
Cut the 9mm dowel into 2 lengths each 62mm long (2). Sand each end until it is a sliding fit into the
frame and the face. Glue the dowels into the face as shown.
Set the assembly aside.
13. Clockerel-0014 / Clockerel assembly exploded.
Remove all parts from the clock which may have been temporarily assembled.
Insert 4 x D cell batteries into the clock and switch off. Ensure Alkaline batteries are used and that they
are fitted correctly (Polarity). As stated earlier the clock has no polarity protection as this would result in
a reduced battery life.
Insert the ratchet wheel assembly 1 into the bearings as shown. Ensure that the 2 washers are inserted
either side on the bearings.
Insert the 60 tooth wheel assembly 2 into the bearings as shown. Ensure that the washers are inserted
either side of the bearings.
Insert the 30 tooth wheel assembly 4 into the bearings as shown. Ensure that the washers are inserted
either side of the bearings.
Insert the 64 tooth wheel assembly 3 into the bearings as far as the second bearing. Ensure that the
washer was inserted on the shaft before this operation. Position the hour hand assembly 5 into position
under the 60 tooth wheel. Slide the 64 tooth wheel the remainder of the way and into the hour hand
assembly.
The face assembly 8 can now be fitted. The face should have a standoff from the 60 tooth wheel of
approximately 3mm as shown in Clockerel-0015. Reduce the length of the dowels if necessary.
The minute hand can now be fitted as shown. The hour hand assembly should have approximately 1mm
of end float on the shaft. Adjust the length of the 64 tooth wheel shaft if necessary.
Insert the pendulum assembly 6 into the bearings as shown. Be careful to engage the drive pawl and the
non return pawl onto the ratchet wheel. Ensure that the washers are inserted either side of the bearings
and that there is approximately 1mm of end float with the pendulum mount fitted.
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Wooden Gear Clocks UK
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Glue the pendulum shaft into the pendulum mount so that there is approximately 2mm of clearance
between the magnet and the base. Adjust the shaft length as necessary. Allow it to dry.
14. Clockerel-0018 / Ratchet setup detail.
Adjust the pawls as per the drawing by holding the drive pawl lever in one hand and turning the
pendulum mount.
Switch on the clock and give the pendulum a gentle push. Look down at the LED. This should be
flashing each time the magnet passes the centre of the coil. If it seems to be flashing erratically then turn
the magnet around. The clock will probably swing too far at this point. The ideal magnitude of swing will
just allow the drive pawl to engage and the non return pawl to just engage. The pendulum should swing
to about the edge of the base. To reduce the swing, screw the magnet holder further onto the shaft so
that the distance between the magnet and coil increases. The shaft may need reducing in length.
When the clock appears to be running ok then set the hour.
If the clock runs fast then screw the bob weight down the shaft, effectively lengthening the pendulum. If
the clock runs slow then screw the bob weight up the shaft, effectively shortening the pendulum. This
process may require minimal adjustment as the clock becomes more accurate.
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THIRD ANGLE PROJECTION
2
1
Prior to glueing,remove cutter radii from the
frame hole with a sharp chisel or file. This is the
most difficult part of the build. Ensure this is
done neatly to give a snug fit for the frame.
If you do not feel confident doing this then
get a competent person to do it for you.
Prior to glueing, remove cutter radii from
the switch hole. This hole is not as critical
as the other as switch flange covers
the edge of the hole.
Apply pva adhesive
to mating surface.
Triangles denote that this part is glued to shaft
and the adjacent part.
Pentagon denotes that this part is glued to adjacent
part only so that assembly can be removed.
Circles denote an interferance or loose fit.
ITEM NO. PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION QTY.
1 Base bottom 1
2 Base top 1
DRAWN
CHK'D
APPV'D
MFG
Q.A
UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED:
DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMETERS
SURFACE FINISH:
TOLERANCES:
LINEAR:
ANGULAR:
FINISH:
DEBUR AND
BREAK SHARP
EDGES
NAME
SIGNATURE
DATE
MATERIAL:
TITLE:
DWG NO.
SCALE:1:5 SHEET 1 OF 1
A4
WEIGHT:
Wooden Gear Clocks
316 Pickering Road, Hull, East Yorkshire, HU4 7AD.
Tel. [phone] wooden-gear-clocks.co.uk
Base assembly
MDF
Clockerel-0001

THIRD ANGLE PROJECTION
252
- 2
+ 2
B
B
C
C
SECTION B-B
SCALE 1 : 2
3
2
Ensure that the hole
is clean at the bottom
to allow the frame to
seat squarely in the
hole
All bearing fits the same
9
7
SECTION C-C
SCALE 1 : 2
2
1
1
10
11
Notes
The frame may be glued into the base
if the fit appears to be a bit loose. Careful
fitting should give a tight fit that does not require
adhesive.
The frame should be finished and laquered before
fitting the bearings. Laquer on the bearings would
effect the clock operation.
Triangles denote that this part is glued to shaft
and the adjacent part.
Pentagon denotes that this part is glued to adjacent
part only so that assembly can be removed.
Circles denote an interferance or loose fit.
ITEM
NO.
PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION QTY.
1 Bearing 623zz 10
2 Frame 1
3 Base assembly See Dwg Cockerel-0001 1
7 Switch 1
9 Base Cover 1
10 Screws 3.5x20 4
11 Self adhesive felt pad 4
DRAWN
CHK'D
APPV'D
MFG
Q.A
UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED:
DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMETERS
SURFACE FINISH:
TOLERANCES:
LINEAR:
ANGULAR:
FINISH:
DEBUR AND
BREAK SHARP
EDGES
NAME
SIGNATURE
DATE
MATERIAL:
TITLE:
DWG NO.
SCALE:1:5 SHEET 1 OF 1
A4
WEIGHT:
Wooden Gear Clocks
316 Pickering Road, Hull, East Yorkshire, HU4 7AD.
Tel. [phone] wooden-gear-clocks.co.uk
Clockerel-0002
Frame assembly

THIRD ANGLE PROJECTION
Circuit board
LED
Coil
Switch
Battery holder
DRAWN
CHK'D
APPV'D
MFG
Q.A
UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED:
DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMETERS
SURFACE FINISH:
TOLERANCES:
LINEAR:
ANGULAR:
FINISH:
DEBUR AND
BREAK SHARP
EDGES
NAME
SIGNATURE
DATE
MATERIAL:
TITLE:
DWG NO.
SCALE:1:1 SHEET 1 OF 1
A4
WEIGHT:
Wooden Gear Clocks
316 Pickering Road, Hull, East Yorkshire, HU4 7AD.
Tel. [phone] wooden-gear-clocks.co.uk
Wiring schematic
Clockerel-0003

THIRD ANGLE PROJECTION
B B
65 7 8
4
2
3
Wiring groove
Ensure battery holder terminals are positioned
at wiring groove side.
SECTION B-B
SCALE 1 : 2
Circuit board is positioned components downwards.
Ensure that terminal strip is next to wiring groove when in
the inverted position.
ITEM NO. PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION QTY.
2 frame 1
3 Base assembly 1
4 Battery holder 1
5 Coil 1
6
Simplified circuit
board
1
7 Switch 1
8 LED 1
DRAWN
CHK'D
APPV'D
MFG
Q.A
UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED:
DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMETERS
SURFACE FINISH:
TOLERANCES:
LINEAR:
ANGULAR:
FINISH:
DEBUR AND
BREAK SHARP
EDGES
NAME
SIGNATURE
DATE
MATERIAL:
TITLE:
DWG NO.
SCALE:1:5 SHEET 1 OF 1
A4
WEIGHT:
Wooden Gear Clocks
316 Pickering Road, Hull, East Yorkshire, HU4 7AD.
Tel. [phone] wooden-gear-clocks.co.uk
Positioning of electronic components
Clockerel-0004