Wooden Model Boat Thames Lifeboat User manual

Specification Recommended Running Gear
Length 440mm Motor 280 brushed
Beam 120mm Speed controller 15A marine
Height 170mm Battery 7.4V 1100mAh LiPo
Finished weight 570g Prop shaft 150 x 2mm threaded
Propeller 30mm M2
Rudder 33 x 22mm brass
Motor coupling Neoprene tube
Radio 2.4GHz 2-ch proportional
Servo Mini or micro
WELCOME ABOARD!
Thank you for purchasing this WMBC Lifeboat kit. Modelled on the E-Class boat, which was
designed specifically for operation on London’s bustling River Thames, this eye-catching model
beautifully captures the spirit of the type. Combining both speed and manoeuvrability to cover the
tidal reaches of the river, the E-Class was introduced in response to the recommendations of the
1989 Marchioness disaster enquiry..
Here at the Wooden Model Boat Company we pride ourselves on producing traditional model
boat kits that build quickly and accurately into delightful semi-scale replicas. Using precise
laser-cut balsa and ply parts, coupled with a semi self-jigging / interlocking hull frame, there’s
little that can go wrong during the construction of your model, providing you closely follow these
instructions. If you’re new to model boat building, allow a quiet 30 minutes to read these
instructions carefully and to familiarise yourself with every part in the box, along with its function
and when it’s required in the assembly sequence.

LIST OF PARTS
You will find the following parts in the box. Please check the list carefully and contact your retailer
if anything is missing. Use this list in conjunction with the drawings of the laser-cut parts at the
end of this manual.
Part No. Description Quantity Material
1 Frame 1 3mm ply
2 Frame 1 3mm ply
3 Frame 1 3mm ply
4 Motor mount beam 1 3mm ply
4a Motor mount bracket 1 3mm ply
4b Motor mount nut (M3) 2 Mild steel
4c Motor mount bolt (M3) 2 Mild steel
4d Motor mount washer (M3) 2 Mild steel
5 Frame 1 3mm ply
6 Frame 1 3mm ply
7 Servo and battery tray 1 3mm ply
8 Transom 1 3mm ply
9 Keel 1 3mm ply
9a Keel doubler 4 1.5mm balsa
9b Keel trebler 2 1.5mm ply
10 Deck support 1 3mm ply
11 Chine stringer 2 3mm sq. ply
12 Gunwale 2 6 x 3mm ply
13 Bottom skin (stern) 1 1.5mm ply
14 Rudder support rings 3 3mm ply
15 Bottom skin (main) 2 1.5mm balsa
16 Side skin 2 1.5mm balsa
17 Bow profile blocks 28 3mm balsa
18 Bow deck coaming 1 3mm ply
19 Forward deck coaming 2 3mm ply
20 Aft deck coaming 2 3mm ply
21 Stern deck coaming 1 3mm ply
22 Spray rails 2 3mm sq. ply
23 Deck frame 1 3mm ply
24 Deck 1 1.5mm ply
25 Deck frame biscuits 3 1.5mm ply
26 Bow gunwale standoff 2 3mm ply
27 Midship gunwale standoff 2 3mm ply
28 Stern gunwale standoff 2 3mm ply
29 Gunwale 1 3mm ply
30 Equipment locker side 2 1.5mm ply
31 Rear seat side 2 1.5mm ply
32 Rear seat front 1 1.5mm ply
33 Equipment locker front 1 1.5mm ply
34 Equipment locker rear 1 1.5mm ply
35 Rear seat top 1 1.5mm ply
36 Equipment locker top 1 1.5mm ply
37 Steering console front 1 1.5mm ply
38 Steering console locker doors 4 1.5mm ply
39 Steering console top 1 1.5mm ply
40 Steering console cross piece 1 1.5mm ply
41 Steering console side 2 1.5mm ply
42 Steering console dashboard 1 1.5mm ply
43 Comms tower side frame 2 1.5mm ply
44 Comms platform bearer 2 1.5mm ply
45 Upper comms tower joiner 2 1.5mm ply
46 Lower comms tower joiner 2 1.5mm ply
47 Comms platform 1 1.5mm ply
48 Aerial 2 2mm dowel
49 Radar antenna 1 (2 pcs) Printed plastic
50 Seated crewmen 1 Printed plastic
51 Steering wheel 1 Printed plastic
52 Stretcher 1 Printed plastic
53 Fairleads 2 Printed plastic
54 Samson post 1 Printed plastic
55 Samson post bar 1 Printed plastic
56 Deck magnets 2 (4 pcs) 6mm diameter
57 Stand end plates 2 3mm ply
58 Stand name plates 2 3mm ply
GENERAL INFO: STICK WITH US!
The team here at the Wooden Model Boat Company are acutely aware that quality tools and materials play a vital
part in the successful completion of any model build. Fortunately our staff are active modellers too, so we’re very
fortunate in being able to both supply and thoroughly recommend the perfect glues, paints and materials that are
needed to complete your Thames Lifeboat to a very high standard. We can do this because we’ve built one.
Actually, more than one!
RECOMMENDED MATERIALS
The following is a list of the recommended materials you’ll need to complete the model as
depicted on the box and in the accompanying drawings and photographs (see jperkins.com).
Description J Perkins Part No.
MD Aliphatic White Glue MDP5524821
ZAP Epoxy (15 min) 5525782-1
MD Super Filler MDP5524830
500-Grit Sandpaper –
800-Grit Sandpaper –
1200-Grit Sandpaper –
Sanding block –
Guild Lane Sanding Sealer (60ml jar) GLDCEX1100060
Guild Lane High Build Primer (400ml aerosol) GLDCEX0960400
Guild Lane Satin Fuel Proofer (400ml aerosol) GLDCEX1310400
Chroma Enamel Gloss Orange (400ml aerosol) GLDCHR6406
Chroma Enamel Gloss Red (400ml aerosol) GLDCHR6401
Chroma Enamel Gloss White (400ml aerosol) GLDCHR6400

JP Black Trimline 5523672
Low-tack double-sided tape _
STEP-BY-STEP
This assembly manual is divided into six sections: 1. Hull Frame Assembly; 2. Hull Skins &
Profiling; 3. Deck Substructure; 4. Deck Assembly; 5. Finishing; 6. Motor & Radio Installation. All
sections are supported by a build sequence whilst stages 1, 2, 3 & 4 are additionally supported by
an exploded illustration (with numbered parts) for easy identification. Please follow these steps in
precise order. Find yourself a clear, flat and solid surface for assembly and make sure you have all
the components, glues and materials necessary to complete a stage before starting it.
Section 1: Hull Frame Assembly
Note that the hull frames are assembled upside-down on a solid, flat surface.
▢1. Locate all the parts shown above, along with the stand parts (57 & 58 – see parts drawings)
and give all the brown, laser cut edges a light sanding to aid glue adhesion. Glue the stand end
plates (57) to the stand nameplates (58). Temporarily attach the deck support (10) to your flat
building surface using six or eight small pieces of paper-thin low-tack double-sided tape. This will
ensure that no twisting occurs during assembly of the frames and keel.
▢ 2. Glue frames 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6 vertically into their respective locations and leave to cure.
▢ 3. Take the four keel doubler pieces (9a), orientate them correctly, then glue two each side of the
keel (9) adjacent to the marked propeller shaft slot, which is indicated by double dotted lines. Glue
just one of the keel trebler pieces (9b) in position.
▢ 4. Lift the keel, flip it over and, using a razor saw, very carefully cut through part 9 (only) to open
out the propeller tube slot. Be very careful not to cut into part 9b. Keeping the keel absolutely
straight, glue the second keel trebler (9b) in position (to mirror the first) and clamp until the glue
has fully cured.
▢ 5. Dry fit the keel, check it for accuracy, then remove, add glue and refit.
▢ 6. Glue the angled transom (8) in position.
▢ 7. Glue the chine stringers (11) in place from frame 1 to frame 8 and add the gunwales (12), leave
to properly cure then remove the completed frame assembly from your building board.
▢ 8. Using the supplied M3 nuts, bolts and washers (4b, 4c & 4d), bolt parts 4 and 4a together
then glue part 4 (only) between frame 3 and 5, as shown. Do not glue 4a to the keel as this will
need to be removed in order to fit the motor at a later stage.
▢ 9. Glue the servo and battery tray (7) in position atop part 5 & 6.
Section 2: Hull Skins and Profiling
Fitting the hull skins is by far the most challenging part of any boat build, however with care and
attention it can also be one of the most rewarding. The old proverb ‘measure twice, cut once’ very
much applies here. In other words, plan thoroughly before you take action. In this instance that
means, carry out a dry run before fitting the parts, know in advance which glue you’re going to
use, work out how you plan to apply the skins and how you intend to hold the parts in place while
the glue is setting. Make sure you have all the required tools and materials to hand and then…

▢ 10. Locate the three rudder support rings (14), glue them cleanly and accurately together, then
glue them to the inner surface of the stern skin (13) in perfect alignment with the hole for the
rudder tube. When set, glue part 13 in position with the forward edge located exactly half way over
Frame 6.
▢ 11. Check the bottom skins (15) for fit, mark the inner surface with the position of frames 1, 2, 3,
5 and 6, then apply contact adhesive to the marked lines. Apply contact adhesive to the mating
part of frames 1, 2, 3, 5 & 6 and leave for 10 minutes to dry. Dampen only the outer surface of the
bottom skins (15) with water (to assist in bending the wood), apply aliphatic white glue to the
mating edges of the skin and hull, then carefully position each skin and press into place. If the
forward edge of the skins prove difficult to attach to frame 2, use medium cyano and kicker to
finish the job.
▢ 12. Check the outboard edge of the bottom skin and trim any overlap of the chine stringer.
Locate the side skins (16), check for fit and mark the inner surface with the position of frames 1, 2,
3, 5, 6 and 8, then apply contact adhesive to the marked lines. Apply contact adhesive to the
mating part of frames 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and 8 and leave for 10 minutes to dry. Dampen only the outer
surface of the side skins, as before, apply aliphatic white glue to the mating edges of the skin and
hull, then carefully position each skin and press into place. If the forward edge of the skins prove
difficult to attach to frame 2, use medium cyano and kicker, as before.
▢ 13. Trim the hull skins flush with frame 1, locate the bow profile blocks (17) and glue in position.
▢ 14. Use sandpaper to shape and profile the bow blocks and sand the hull to a finish ready for
waterproofing. Pay particular attention to the chine lines, transom and bow, and use lightweight
filler as required.
▢ 15. Locate the spray rails (22), cut a slope in the leading edge, and glue accurately to the lower
edge of the side skin, following the line of the chine (the junction of the bottom and side skins).
Section 3: Deck Substructure
▢ 16. Locate the deck coaming parts (18, 19, 20 & 21) and glue in position as shown.
TOP TIP: WETTING WOOD
Wetting balsa sheeting on one side softens the wood fibres and acts as a plasticiser which encourages increased
flexibility in the wood and allows the drier / stronger fibres (on the opposite side) to induce a bend in the direction of
the dry side. Gentle heat from, say, a household iron, has a similar effect
▢
17. Locate the deck magnets (56) and separate into north and south poles. Glue two units with
identical poles into the deck support (10).
Section 4: Deck Assembly
Before assembling the deck components, think carefully about the order of assembly, particularly
with regard to painting and finishing. Follow these instructions to the letter.

▢ 18. Locate the parts shown in the illustration above and give all the brown, laser cut edges a light
sanding to aid glue adhesion. Temporarily attach the deck frame (23) to your flat building surface
using six or eight small pieces of paper-thin low-tack double-sided tape. This will ensure that no
twisting occurs during assembly.
▢ 19. Locate the printed deck (24) and the deck frame biscuits (25). Glue the deck accurately in
position on the deck frame using the biscuits to aid alignment. In order for the deck to clip snuggly
onto the hull it’s essential that the deck frame (23) remains absolutely flat during this process. If
necessary use suitably heavy weights to hold the edges of the deck down while the glue dries.
▢ 20. Locate the bow, midship and stern gunwale supports (26, 27 & 28) and glue in position on
the deck (24), flush with the outer edge. As before, use heavy weights to keep the parts, and the
deck below, pressed flat. When the glue has set, attach the gunwale (29) and reapply the weights.
▢ 21. Assemble the rear seat and equipment locker using parts 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35 & 36. NOTE!
Do not glue this or the steering console to the deck until all items have been painted.
▢ 22. Assemble the steering console using parts 37, 38, 39, 40, 41 & 42.
▢ 23. Carefully glue together the comms tower using parts 43, 44, 45, 46 & 47. When set, attach
the assembly to the top of the equipment locker.
Section 5: Finishing
In this section we’ll fit and remove the motor, install the propeller shaft and rudder tube. make the
boat waterproof and carry out final assembly of the deck fittings.
▢ 24. Unbolt the motor mount bracket (4a) and attach your chosen 280 brushed motor. Refit the
bracket / motor and slide your propeller tube into the hull. Accurately align the tube with the
motor shaft in both the vertical and horizontal planes, then permanently glue the shaft in place
using 15-minute epoxy. TIP! To guarantee alignment use a small piece of tight-fitting neoprene
tube to link the motor and shaft. When the epoxy has set, remove the motor.
▢ 25. Trial fit the rudder tube, adjust as required (it should be absolutely vertical), then remove it
for refitting after the hull is painted.
▢ 26. Apply two generous coats of Guild Lane sanding sealer to the hull, battery tray (7) and all
wood parts that require painting, including the deck and cabin. Leave to dry between coats and
sand after each coat with 800-grit (or similar) paper. If necessary, repeat until you’re happy that
the wood has been suitably sealed. Apply one generous coat of Guild Lane High Build primer to
the hull and cabin, lightly sand with 1200-grit paper and check for imperfections. Fill as
necessary, sand, re-prime then sand again until all parts are deemed suitable for the top coat.
▢ 27. Add top coats to suit your chosen colour scheme, not forgetting to prime, paint and detail the
seated crewmen, radar antenna (49), fairleads (53), samson post (glue parts 54 & 55), steering
wheel (51), aerials (48) and stretcher (52). The prototype predominantly uses Guild Lane Gloss
Orange (upper hull & deck assemblies), Gloss Red (lower hull), High Build Primer (deck) and
Gloss White (radar antenna and aerials). It also uses JP Black Trimline around the deck edge and
to pick out other minor details.
▢ 28. Glue the steering console, equipment locker and seated crewmen to the deck. Follow this by
attaching the fairleads (53), samson post, radar antenna and aerials.
▢ 29. Locate the remaining deck magnets (56) and glue them firmly into the circular pockets in the
deck frame (23) making sure that the correct polarity orientation is observed.
Section 6: Motor & Radio Installation
We recommend the Planet TS2+2 two-channel radio system for your Thames Lifeboat. Designed
specifically for boat and car modellers the stick-style system is equipped with two primary
channels (throttle and rudder) and two auxiliary channels which you may find useful on other
boats as you explore the hobby further. In this respect the TS2+2 combo also includes a
future-proof 6-channel receiver and a very competitive price tag. Visit jperkins.com for details and
pricing and pick one up at your local model shop.
▢ 30. Refit the motor then join the motor shaft and propeller shaft using tight-fitting neoprene
tube. NOTE! You may need to shorten the prop shaft by cutting a small length from the
non-threaded end.
▢ 31. Fit the propeller and refit the rudder (making sure the waterproof O-ring seal is in place
between the rudder tube and hull) then tighten the rudder tube nut and washer against the top of
the radio tray.
▢ 32. Attach your servo to the servo and battery tray (7) using padded double-sided servo tape
and use a piano wire pushrod to link it to the tiller arm.
▢ 33. Use padded double-sided tape to attach your receiver (forward of the rudder servo), then
test the model for balance, in water. Establish the ideal location for your chosen 2S LiPo battery
then attach it using hook and loop tape. Check for leaks and rectify.
HAPPY CRUISING
The Thames Lifeboat drives well in most conditions but, like all small model boats, excels in calmer
water and looks very much the part, displacing a satisfying bow wave and leaving a tidy wake.
Steering is positive and with the 280 motor / 2S LiPo combination the speed is beautifully
matched to the type. Don’t be tempted to over-power it. This boat has a semi-displacement
(rather than a planing) hull and is not designed for out-and-out speed. When driven accordingly
it is sure to bring enormous satisfaction.
We hope you’ve enjoyed building this model and are suitably enthused to try other boats in the
Wooden Model Boat Company range.
Riviera Motor Boat – WBC1000
PT-109 Patrol Torpedo Boat – WBC1001
Police Launch – WBC1002

LASER-CUT PARTS
Use these drawings to help identify the various laser-cut and printed parts that are included in
your kit.