Yamaha V-MAX SHO VF250 Operating manual

MATTERS
®
maintenance
A SIMPLE GUIDE FOR THE LONGEVITY OF YOUR OUTBOARD
®

Yamaha wants you to have an outstanding ownership experience. Maintenance plays a
big part in that. We’ve learned a lot about caring for outboards during our many years as
an outboard manufacturer; so here’s some knowledge and simple tips on the subject.
WHY MAINTENANCE?
Protection and peace of mind
From their painstaking design to their
meticulous construction, Yamaha outboards
are manufactured to provide you with years
of enjoyment. However, they live in one of
the harshest environments imaginable.
High load, high-RPM operation, extreme
temperatures and humidity, saltwater, sun,
even long periods of non-use can all exact
a heavy toll. And it’s not just Yamaha
outboards. All outboards face these same
challenges. Regular maintenance is important in helping your outboard meet the demands
of these challenging environments, and only you can make sure it happens.
Spending a relatively small amount of time making sure your
outboard’s in proper condition is simple to do, and:
•You’ll have more hours of trouble-free
enjoyment on the water.
•You’ll preserve your investment with a
higher resale value.
•Your boat will be ready when you are.
• It’s easier and costs less to maintain
than repair.
•Yamaha dealers stand ready to help.
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What are the basics? Keep your outboard ready to run with basic maintenance like:
•Changing engine and lower unit oils every 100 hours
•Flushing regularly
•Replacing fuel filters periodically
•Helping to prevent corrosion
This simple guide will walk you through all of these items and more using:
•Information—in an easy-to-read-and-understand format
•Maintenance charts—with service intervals
•Links and QR Codes®—to expanded information and short “why/how-to” videos
•Checklists—to help make sure you’ve covered it all, until it becomes second-nature
•Referrals—to the Yamaha smartphone app and/or Maintenance.YamahaOutboards.com
for helpful information and maintenance-related technology
Outboard maintenance doesn’t need to be difficult or expensive. Whether you do it all yourself or
have one of approximately 2,000 authorized Yamaha Marine dealers do parts of it for you, we’re
committed to helping you maintain your outboard in a way that’s easy to do and easy to understand.
Let’s get started.
Yamaha is the only outboard manufacturer to receive the coveted CSI®award for customer satisfaction
from the National Marine Manufacturers Association (NMMA®) every year since its inception (2002).
Contents
Let’s Get Started 04
Corrosion Prevention 06
Fuel & Fuel System 10
Electrical System 14
Power Trim & Tilt 17
Propeller Solutions 18
External Appearance 19
Interval Maintenance 20
Engine Oil & Lube 21
Lower Unit 24
Other Key Items 26
Extended Storage 28
Things to Remember 30
Why Yamaha? 32
Capacities & Specs 34
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We boaters can take a lesson from pilots, who perform a simple walkaround
of their craft before each and every use. They know taking a few short
minutes to do this every time is key to safety and enjoyment. Each time
before you go boating, you should do the same.
LET’S GET STARTED
first things first
In the pre-launch checklist below, you’ll find information that you can use to help make sure you
fully enjoy your day on the water. It’s regular attention to these basic items that will help make
boating the safe and enjoyable experience it’s meant to be.
Pre-launch
Checklist
1. Inspect dock and heaving lines
2. Check navigation lights
3. Check anchor and tackle
4. Inspect trailer winch
5. Care for rear wheels of your tow
vehicle the same as trailer wheels
(see #9)
6. Ensure registration numbers are
properly displayed, plus current
registration and other necessary
documentation is onboard
7. Ensure trailer hitch and safety
chains are secure, and inspect trailer
wires and connections
8. Check hull for damage, soft spots
or blistering
9. Grease bearings, ensure lug nuts
are tight and not rusting, check tire
tread and pressure
10. Test bilge pump
11. Check gauges
•Check and/or prepare fire
extinguisher, first aid kit, visual
and audible distress signals
•Check for throwable type IV PFD
and ensure all passengers have
properly fitted PFDs
•Check the weather and file a float
plan with a friend
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Keep in mind you’re never alone.
•Yamaha dealers stand ready to help.
With approximately 2,000 authorized Yamaha
Marine dealers nationwide, one can assist
you with proper maintenance of your Yamaha
outboard. From regular maintenance to
installation of parts and accessories, they
have the tools and the training to do the job
right. And they feature Genuine Yamaha and
Yamalube®maintenance and care products.
That’s important.
•Yamaha website. For additional
information on why “Maintenance Matters,”
including helpful “how to” information
and a complete list of Genuine Yamaha
and Yamalube®maintenance and care
products and accessories, please visit
Maintenance.YamahaOutboards.com.
12. Test marine radio
13. Check magnetic compass,
charts and navigation tools
14. Check engine oil for level
and color
15. Check fuel system for leaks
(visual and “sniff test”). Check fuel
level for trip (1/3 out, 1/3 return,
1/3 spare)
16. Ensure battery connections
are clean and tight
17. Replace anodes if over half gone
18. Check propeller for damage,
shaft for debris, prop nut torque
19. Test trim, tilt supports and
inspect rams. Ensure proper
trailering support is used
20. Ensure scuppers are clear, bilge
clean and drain plug installed
21. Check transom for cracks
22. Inspect trailer bunks for
damaged boards or torn carpet
23. Ensure trailer lights are sealed
and working
•Check load of vessel and
secure gear from shifting
•Prepare tool kit with extra wire, spare
fuses, spark plugs, prop and nut,
hoses and clamps, etc.
•Verify your vessel is in compliance
with all applicable boating laws
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DEFEND AGAINST THE ELEMENTS
CORROSION PREVENTION
While your Yamaha Marine dealer can help you with, or even do, most of your
general and preventative maintenance, corrosion mitigation is something you
can only do yourself—and time is of the essence.
Regardless of where you boat, corrosion
attacks both the inside and the outside of your
outboard—every day, all the time. Some forms
you can see, some you can’t, and it can take
only a short time for the damage to begin.
Even those boating in freshwater have
corrosion-mitigation duties to attend to. Why,
even rainwater can have corrosive effects that
can be damaging to your outboard. So it’s vital
to be diligent in your anti-corrosion defense.
Your dealer can help provide the right products to help prevent some
forms of corrosion, but their regular and diligent use is strictly up to you.
The following are answers to common questions about how to mitigate
the presence and damage of corrosion.
Where do I need to concentrate my
fight against corrosion?
Corrosion can happen pretty much anywhere on or
in your outboard: inside, in your fuel system or in the
internal cooling water passages, and on the outside,
in various electrical connections and exposed
metal components. But don’t worry, you have a lot
of allies on your side, and we’re here to help by
teaching you where to look and what to look for.
6

Scan here to learn more
about outboard flushing.*
Scan here to see a video about
the three flushing methods.*
What’s so important about flushing my outboard?
I boat exclusively in freshwater, do I still need to?
Your Yamaha outboard is raw-water cooled, meaning it uses the water it’s operating on as cooling
water. All water, fresh or salt, contains contaminants that will eventually build up in the cooling
passages over time. Additionally, saltwater is naturally corrosive and any remaining in those cooling
water passages after use is left there to do its worst, unabated. Saltwater can also experience
crystallization when exposed to heat above 170 degrees, which causes deposits to form and
potentially restrict cooling water passages. For these
reasons, it’s a must that you flush your engine
thoroughly with fresh, clean water after every use.
How do I go about flushing my outboard?
Use one of these three basic methods to flush after each trip.
•Use the built-in flush attachment. This is a great procedure to follow, especially if
you can’t remove your boat from the water, or if your outboard has dual water inlets
and you don’t have the special adapter. Simply connect a garden hose to the inlet
side of your non-running outboard’s built-in flush attachment, turn the spigot on full
blast, and let the hose’s water pressure do the work. Let the water run for 15 minutes
to ensure it fully circulates through the entire cooling system several times. If your
boat’s out of the water, like on a trailer or a lift, the fresh water will also trickle down
and adequately clean the water pump and the lower unit’s cooling water passages.
•The flush muff method. This is the most common and often-used fresh water
flushing method. Simply connect a garden hose to clean fresh water on one end
and a “flush muff” attachment, which slides around the lower unit to provide water
to both sides of the raw water inlet, to the other end. Turn on the water until you
see water squirting out the sides of the flush muff, then start your outboard in
neutral. Set the outboard to no more than a fast idle (900-RPM max) and allow to
run for 15 minutes in neutral. Increase hose water pressure enough to maintain a
bit of squirting out from under the flush muffs at all times while the outboard is
running. This helps ensure it gets fed enough cooling water.
Note: Outboards utilizing two cooling water inlets require a special adapter to use this method. Check with your
outboard’s manufacturer.
Note: Increasing engine speed may cause water demand to exceed supply. If you notice the hose becoming flat while
the outboard is running using this procedure, increase the water flow and/or decrease the engine RPM.
Warning: For safety, we suggest you remove the propeller before you begin. Accidental engagement of the outboard
into gear with the outboard running will cause an exposed propeller to spin rapidly, possibly resulting in serious
injury or death.
•The flush bag method. This method can be used for a boat on a trailer or when
moored. A flush bag, when filled with water, simulates the outboard idling in its
normal state but immerses the lower unit in fresh, clean tap water. Simply place
the bag around the outboard, attach the hose, and fill the bag. Ensure the water
level reaches the height of the outboard’s water pump (about 1” above the lower
unit separation seam). Start the engine, and run for 15 minutes in neutral. Leave
the hose running during this entire procedure. When complete, stop the outboard,
then the hose, and then drain the bag.
Note: Thoroughly dry the bag before storage.
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Scan here to see a video
about corrosion prevention.*
What is “dry corrosion”?
What causes it and what can I do about it?
Dry corrosion occurs in areas not in direct
contact with water—exhaust systems, for
example. The outside of most exhaust system
components is cooled by raw water to prevent
overheating. When today’s ethanol-enhanced
fuel is burned, it creates by-products known as
sulfate salts. These salts are highly corrosive,
especially when exposed to very hot temperatures. If the outboard’s cooling water passages are not
kept clean by regular flushing (the exhaust area in this example), hot spots can form on the interior
of the exhaust components, concentrating the sulfate salts’ corrosive effects. In effect, it’s corrosion
from the inside out. That’s why flushing your engine with fresh, clean water for 15 minutes after
each trip is a vital part of preventing even dry corrosion. It helps the cooling system run at maximum
efficiency by keeping the cooling water passages clean and clear, which helps minimize the heat
inside the engine, making it less susceptible to dry corrosion.
How can I fight corrosion on the outside of my outboard?
It’s a good practice to set up a regular schedule and stick to it. There are quick and simple things you
should do after every use if you boat in saltwater, and periodically if freshwater is your game. These
include visual inspections you should do every time.
If you’re unsure about what to do and when, your
authorized Yamaha Marine dealer can help.
•Rinse it. Don’t spare the hose when returning from a trip, particularly in saltwater. Rinse the
entire outside of the outboard with clean water. Give it a once over with some mild soap like
Yamalube®Wash & Wax Concentrate and a soft cloth while you’re at it (do not use liquid dish
detergent—it can strip off important protectants). Go ahead and wash the whole boat and
trailer. Wiping it down with a good quality chamois afterward helps keep it all looking sharp.
Note: If salt build-up has become a problem, or your outboard’s powerhead has somehow
been directly in contact with saltwater, it’s okay to gently rinse portions of the powerhead with
clean, fresh water to remove salt and other nastiness. Just use a hose on low pressure—not
a spray attachment—and don’t rinse around the air intake area. Rinse out the inside of the
cowling, too. Make absolutely sure both the powerhead and the cowling are completely
air-dry before re-installing the cowling.
•Spray it. Liberally spray the entire dry powerhead with
a protectant like Yamashield.
™It’s a lubricant, a water
displacement agent and a corrosion preventative all rolled
into one. A high-quality silicone spray works well here, too.
Spray all external powerhead surfaces and the electrical
connections to help keep them corrosion-free, and the
rubber cowling sealing gaskets to help keep them supple
and effective at sealing out harmful water.
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3
Scan here to see a video about
cleaning and caring for propellers.*
•Check it. Do a quick visual inspection of your boat and your Yamaha outboard(s) every
time you use them. Look for anything out of the ordinary and investigate if need be.
Keep a special eye on:
Anodes: Anodes intentionally corrode before your outboard does, in order to help protect it. Better
known as “sacrificial anodes,” they are typically dull grey in color. On Yamaha outboards, they’re
usually located on the lower unit just above the prop and on the bottom of the engine bracket.
As corrosion occurs over time, they begin to “dissolve.” Replace them when they are about 50%
gone with only high-quality, factory-recommended replacements. Don’t be fooled by lesser-quality
imitations. There’s too much at stake here to risk it. Yamaha sacrificial anodes are made of a blend
of high-quality alloys specifically designed to help protect your Yamaha outboard.
Caution: Never paint or cover anodes in any way, as they must be in direct contact with the
water in order to perform correctly. When exposed to the water (especially freshwater), they
can become covered with a layer of organic growth (often referred to as “scum”). This is often
so thin you won’t even notice it, but it can prevent an anode from doing its job. Therefore, during
your regular washdown procedure, make sure to take a brush and some soap to the anodes to
keep them clean and in direct contact with the water. This will help keep them working properly.
Propellers: Even stainless steel propellers
can get corrosion on them. Although most
often attributable to external forces like stray
voltage in the water, which is not in any way
attributable to the prop itself, it nonetheless
detracts from the shiny finish you expect it to
have. If your props do get surface discoloration
on them (which often appears as a flat grey
or light rusty color), there are simple methods
by which to clean and protect them using
readily available materials.
Electrical systems: Not just your outboard’s,
but your boat’s. Look under the console and
in the bilge areas for electrical connection
blocks. Also, check the battery terminals. If
corrosion appears on either, Yamalube®Battery
Terminal Cleaner & Protector will do the trick.
Spray it on to clean the affected areas (heavily
corroded connections will first need to be
disconnected and thoroughly cleaned). When
it dries, it leaves a protective waxy film that
will help keep corrosion from re-forming.
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The largest source of trouble with marine engines these days lies with the
fuel and fuel system. Paying regular attention to both can help prevent major
headaches down the road. From hoses and connections to proper filtration
and even fuel additives, time spent maintaining your fuel system helps keep
you safe and your boat ready for action.
Keeping your Machine clean
FUEL &FUEL SYSTEM
Scan here to learn more about
ethanol and how to combat it.*
What is ethanol and why is it so bad
for marine engines?
Ethanol has been added to the majority of
today’s fuel supply as an oxygenate to help
reduce emissions. It’s also used to extend
domestic fuel supplies.
Ethanol is alcohol, and alcohol is “hygroscopic,” which means it attracts water molecules. Since
nearly all boat fuel tanks are vented to the atmosphere, water can (and will) collect in your fuel.
When the concentration of water molecules in your fuel tank reaches just
½ of 1%, the water molecules will bond with the alcohol and sink to the
bottom, where your fuel pick up is. Depending on the amount of water
ingested into your outboard, this can result in everything from running
problems to catastrophic damage.
Ethanol, being alcohol, is also a powerful solvent that can loosen debris in your fuel tank and all the
tanks and lines it was in before it got to you. Once in your outboard, this debris can cause everything
from running issues to a no-start, no-run condition. That’s no fun.
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Scan to learn more about the importance
of fuel/water separating filters.*
Scan to learn more about
the power of Ring Free PLUS.*
What can I do to protect myself from the potentially damaging effects of ethanol?
Fortunately, there are simple procedures that can help, but it’s important that you do your part.
This is one part of maintenance you must proactively do for yourself. As you read, scan the
QR Codes®for more information.
•Install a 10-micron fuel/water separating filter in the fuel line between your fuel tank and
your outboard. It filters the gas and allows any water (which is heavier than gas) to safely
sink to the bottom of the filter and out of the fuel. Yamaha’s spin-on 10-micron filter traps
impurities down to 10 microns in size (1/20th of the diameter of a human hair), to keep your
fuel clean, and has an extra-large water-retention area. And since it’s
a spin-on, it’s very easy to replace.
Tip: Carefully filling a new replacement filter about
¾ full with fresh, stabilized fuel before installation
will make priming the fuel system afterward much quicker and easier.
Tip: Apply a thin film of clean engine oil to the gasket when installing the filter.
That will make it much easier to remove when it’s time.
•Add fuel stabilizer and conditioner to every tank of fuel. Make sure to add a quality,
marine-specific non-alcohol-based formula, like Yamalube®Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner
PLUS. These formulations are specifically designed to work effectively in the moisture-rich
environments common to boats. And don’t believe some of the claims you
see today; no matter what you add to bad gas, it’s still bad gas. No additive
will restore stale fuel, remove water, or cure ethanol-related issues.
Tip: Today’s gasoline can begin to break down in a matter of weeks, not months. Make sure to treat
every tank of fuel, not just for extended storage. It’s cheap protection against a world of hurt.
•Add Ring Free PLUS internal engine cleaner to every tank of fuel.
The cleansing additives in the majority of today’s gas are a great
start, but they’re formulated for automobiles, so they may not work
as well on your outboard. Do them one better. Ring Free PLUS
makes performance-robbing carbon chemically unable to stick to
internal engine components. The “PLUS” is a proprietary blend of
synthetic anti-corrosion additives that helps protect the “yellow
metals” in your fuel system (copper, brass and silver solder) from
corrosion. These are key components to proper fuel system
operation. This helps maintain their performance and reliability.
Ring Free PLUS also cleans gums and deposits off of internal engine
and fuel system components.
•Buy your gas where they sell a lot of it.
The goal is to keep your boat’s fuel fresh and potent
at all times. Why buy gas that’s already been sitting
around untreated? Buy the freshest fuel you can find,
and at fill up, treat each tank with Yamalube Fuel
Stabilizer & Conditioner PLUS and Ring Free PLUS.
Add these before adding the fuel so they mix up well.
It’s an easy, proactive and protective habit to get into.
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Are there any other fuel filters, and where are they located?
Your Yamaha outboard has a system of fuel filters on the engine, as well. It’s important to know
the location of these filters and to clean or replace them at the recommended intervals. You can
find this information in your service manual or through your authorized Yamaha Marine dealer.
As an example, here’s a general guide using a modern Yamaha fuel-injected four stroke.
•Primary On-Engine Filter. This is typically on the front, side, or rear of the powerhead,
and is usually made of plastic you can see through. It filters fuel coming into the outboard.
This “primary” filter usually features a small water trap at the bottom of the cup. This
is the first filter after the 10-micron filter; so if there’s water in here, it’s time to change
your 10-micron. On Yamaha outboards, there may be a red ring visible inside this filter.
Don’t ever remove it. If it’s floating, you’ve got water in this filter’s trap. Time for a change.
•Vapor Separator Tank (VST) Filter. Attached to the electric fuel pump in the Vapor
Separator Tank (VST), this filters gas again just before it’s pressurized into the fuel injection
rail(s). The VST is a prime spot in your fuel system where deposits and gum can form,
particularly if fuel is untreated, and the VST filter is the most difficult to access and usually
the most expensive to replace. Help protect it by consistently treating every tank of fuel, and
regularly inspecting and servicing the first two filters in the fuel line.
•In-Line Filter. Some models have an in-line filter between the primary fuel pump and the
VST (vapor separator tank) and/or in the fuel line between the VST and the fuel rail, located
along the top of the outboard. Refer to your service manual or contact your dealer for the
exact location for your model.
•Fuel Injector Screen. These are built into each fuel injector. They’re very fine-mesh screens
and are not user-serviceable. If debris somehow makes it here, the fuel injectors must be
removed and professionally cleaned, or replaced—reason enough to inspect and/or change
your fuel filters regularly.
FUEL FILTER
COMPARISON
YAMAHA
FUEL/WATER SEPARATING FILTER AFTERMARKET FUEL FILTER
10-micron filtration
at 95% nominal
efficiency
Tall filter element
cleans 90 gallons
per hour
Sealed metal
bottom
Large water
reservoir
Sealed can
Shorter filter element
Plastic base
Screw-on bottom
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How often should I change my fuel filters?
•10-micron filters should be replaced every fifty hours
of engine operation. Keeping this filter clean and fresh will
help protect the other fuel filters on the engine and extend
their service life. And always carry a spare on board, just in
case you get a load of bad gas and the filter gets overwhelmed.
Tip: Do not simply remove and dump the fuel and re-install the filter, as captured debris
and water could enter the “clean” side of the filter and be released into your fuel system.
•Primary and in-line filters should be replaced after every 100 hours of engine operation.
These are easy to get to and simple to replace.
•VST filters should be inspected and/or replaced after every 300 hours of engine operation,
provided that the 10-micron external and initial on-engine filters have been serviced and
maintained properly. Properly treated fuel will also extend the life of these filters.
What are some other tips I need to know about my fuel system?
•Check fuel system components before each trip. It’s important to visually and physically
check the condition of the fuel hoses and connections for any signs of leaks or cracking
each time you use your boat. Give everything the “sniff test”. You should also check your
primer bulb. If the bulb does not become firm when squeezed prior to starting the engine,
check for a possible fuel system leak. If none, replace the primer bulb.
•Get rid of carbon and keep it out. Yamaha Internal Engine
Cleaner is a dealer-only applied product that is the strongest and
most effective way to clean out carbon and other build-up from
the inside of your outboard. Once done, be sure to use Ring Free
PLUS regularly to help keep it that way.
•Carburetors need love, too. Late-model carburetors run very
lean, with very small passages that can clog with gum and
varnish. Use Yamalube®Carburetor Cleaner Dip full strength,
or diluted using warm, soapy water, to help clean them up.
Note: Be sure to follow directions. If yours is a two-stroke carburetor,
don’t immerse it in solvent for long periods of time; the special sealant
used on it will be removed, resulting in damage and possible negative
running issues.
•Gas containers. Be sure to add Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner PLUS
and Ring Free PLUS before filling them up, and keep them in a
cool, dark place if possible. Containers available through Yamaha
feature a “Spill-Proof Spout” which shuts off automatically when
the container reaches capacity. This helps prevent spills and
helps them comply with emissions requirements.
All the items in this catalog are available through your local authorized Yamaha Marine
dealer. More information can be found at Maintenance.YamahaOutboards.com.
13

TAKE CHARGE OF YOUR
Today’s modern outboards and onboard electronics require juice to run.
That’s why your electrical system is one of the most important systems on
your boat. Because boats constantly operate on or are near water, electrical
system care is even more important, especially in highly corrosive
saltwater environments. Make sure your electrical system is always
ready to perform with these simple checks and procedures.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Check the wiring and connections.
The electrical system’s job is to carry voltage
from one place to another. If the voltage
can’t make the journey, or if it’s diminished
when it gets there, the receiving device will
not function properly, if at all. The goal is to
have as much voltage (or electrical energy)
arrive at Point B as left Point A. As electricity
passes through a device, some parasitic
loss is normal. However, corrosion impedes
electricity’s ability to travel, which can cause
significant voltage loss or intermittent voltage. Either can wreck the good times, but with simple
visual inspections and physical actions these scenarios can usually be avoided.
Some electrical corrosion can be easy to see, such
as corrosion on battery posts or electrical panel
connections. But some damage can be more difficult
to see, such as internal corrosion that has rotted
some or all of the individual strands inside a wire’s
cover. You can use an ohmmeter to check electrical
connections and wires for excessive resistance.
There should be no more than 0.1-0.2 ohm
resistance between electrical connectors on
each end of a wire. Any more than that and you
should investigate further.
14

Don’t forget the batteries.
Make sure to use the right size and type recommended in your owner’s or service manual
(see chart on next page for general specifications). If there’s any question about a battery’s
performance, have it load tested. Any auto parts store can do this for you, or you can do it
yourself with the right equipment.
Caution: Make sure that there are no fuel fumes present when making, breaking, or checking battery connections
and condition. Give the area the “sniff test” to check for fumes. If in an enclosed area, run the blower or thoroughly
air out the space, or take the battery outside to test it. Please plan and protect accordingly.
All battery cable connections must be clean, tight and use hex nuts and lock washers (not old-
fashioned wing nuts). Loose connections can cause frustrating intermittent issues or a full-time
“no run” condition. A dirty or corroded connection can impede electricity’s ability to travel, and a
battery terminal connection may be corroded, yet appear clean. To avoid any doubt, always remove
the terminal connection and clean both sides of the connecting materials down to bare, shiny
metal, then re-install and tighten the connection properly. For regular maintenance, use Yamalube®
Battery Terminal Cleaner & Protector. Simply spray it on and watch for the foam to change color,
indicating that the corrosion (acid) has been neutralized. Rinse with water and then it dries into a
thin, waxy film, preventing the build-up of additional corrosion.
Don’t forget the house batteries.
Most larger boats that have multiple electrical demands also have house batteries. House batteries
are additional batteries and are separate from the starting battery. They are used to ensure that a
boat with high electrical loads won’t drain the starting battery when in use and leave a boater
stranded. Many large Yamaha outboards (150hp and up) have a separate battery isolator/charging
leads specifically for charging these separate batteries. With proper wiring and components the
charging system will be able to charge the starting battery/batteries first to help keep the voltage up
and ready to go. Once fully charged, it will automatically “switch” the charge to the house battery/
batteries.
Check the electrical connections.
Corrosion often occurs where wires meet. Visually check
electrical blocks under the dash and/or in the bilge. Also,
check any connections on gauges or add-on electrical
equipment like battery switches, plotters, or fish-finders.
Wiggle wires and connections to check for looseness. If
either is found, disconnect and clean the connection with
emery cloth or fine-grit sand paper, then re-install and
tighten properly. Finally, spray all electrical connections
with a product like Yamashield,
™which puts down an
anti-corrosive layer and leaves behind a protective film that
helps prevent corrosion going forward.
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Scan to see a video
on proper battery and electrical system care.*
Don’t spare the spray.
If you haven’t already sprayed connections with
Yamashield or Yamalube®Silicone Protectant
& Lubricant, remove the outboard cowling and
liberally spray the entire powerhead. Not only
will it help prevent corrosion, but it will help
keep rubber parts (like your cowling seal)
supple and able to do their job effectively.
Note: Do not spray silicone on any oxygen (O2) sensors that your outboard may have.
We’ve got the goods.
Yamaha offers a complete range of electrical system care products, including original-
equipment NGK®spark plugs, Yamalube Yamashield Protectant and Lubricant, Yamalube
Battery Terminal Cleaner & Protector, Yamalube Silicone Protectant & Lubricant, and
Yamalube Contact Cleaner. They’re the best you can get for your outboard,
and they’re all available through your local authorized Yamaha Marine dealer.
YAMAHA
US/CA MODELS
CHARGING
VOLTS UNIT SPECIFICATIONS
MIN. MAX.
F8A
15.0V
CCA/SAE 245 A 433 A
F9.9/T9.9 MCA/ABYC 323 A 520 A
F15/F20 RC/SAE 52 min NA
F25/T25
F30/F40
15.0V
F50/T50/F60/T60/F70 CCA/SAE 380 A 1150 A
F75/F90 MCA/ABYC 502 A 1370 A
F/LF115 RC/SAE 124 min NA
VF115
F/LF150
14.5V
CCA/SAE 512 A 1150 A
3.3L F/LF200 MCA/ABYC 675 A 1370 A
3.3L F/LF225 RC/SAE 124 min NA
3.3L F/LF250
2.8L VF150, F175, F/LF200
14.5V
4.2L VF200/225/250 CCA/SAE 680 A 1150 A
4.2L F/LF225 MCA/ABYC 770 A 1370 A
4.2L F/LF250 RC/SAE 160 min NA
4.2L F/LF300
F/LF350 14.7V
CCA/SAE 700 A 1150 A
MCA/ABYC 900 A 1370 A
RC/SAE 160 min NA
HPDI 14.5V
CCA/SAE 512 A 690 A
MCA/ABYC 675 A 840 A
RC/SAE 182 min NA
16

Your outboard’s Power Trim and Tilt unit changes the outboard’s thrust
angle during operation for maximum performance of both your outboard and
your boat. It’s electro-hydraulic, meaning an electric pump moves hydraulic
fluid upon command from the operator, tilting the thrust angle out or in.
It’s positioned inside the engine bracket, meaning almost constant contact
with water, and, depending on where you boat, that can mean saltwater.
Still, under normal conditions, this system needs only minimal care
in order to function properly.
STAY AT PEAK PERFORMANCE
POWER TRIM &TILT
Scan to see a video about
power trim and tilt maintenance.*
Remember to rinse. Make sure to include the PT&T
unit in your routine post-trip flushing and wash down procedure. For best effect,
first run over it gently with a sponge or a soft cloth soaped up with mild detergent
like Yamaclean®. Then, spray the whole unit down with fresh, clean water.
Look and listen. Periodically grease the top of the trim rams on your PT&T unit to help keep them
safe from corrosion and to eliminate those annoying, but harmless, squeaking and popping noises.
Be sure to use a high-quality marine-formula grease, like Yamalube®Marine Grease, so it won’t
wash off so fast.
Act and Retract. Keep the trim rams fully retracted when not in use to prevent corrosion build-up.
Engage the tilt lock mechanism built into the outboard’s bracket, or install a Yamaha engine support
to hold the engine in the tilt-up position. Then, withdraw the tilt rams into the unit by pressing the
PT&T down button until they are fully retracted. This keeps all but the very tip of the ram immersed
in a bath of PT&T fluid and safe from corrosion. Liberally apply Marine Grease to the ram tips to
help keep them corrosion free, too.
Tip: The built-in tilt lock mechanism is for maintaining tilt for storage or periods of non-use only, such as when
mooring. Do not trailer using only this mechanism to support the tilted outboard.
Fill it up with the good stuff. The fluid in your PT&T system is under extreme pressure that can
cause molecular shear, which tears apart the fluid’s molecules, resulting in a drastic loss of
lubricity. Don’t use substitute oils like motor oil or power steering fluid. Yamaha Performance Power
Trim & Tilt Fluid is specially formulated to tolerate a specific amount of water ingestion and still
maintain proper operation, all while withstanding extreme pressures. It also contains special
anti-foaming agents the others don’t, to maintain critical lubricity.
Check the valves and seals. If you see fluid on the outside of the PT&T unit, or if your outboard
won’t stay tilted up (or stay tilted out when running), it may mean that the seals or internal valves
are in need of inspection. Have the unit inspected by an authorized Yamaha Marine dealer and, if
necessary, disassembled and repaired.
Note: All the items in this catalog are available through your local authorized Yamaha Marine dealer.
More information can be found at Maintenance.YamahaOutboards.com.17

Your propeller is a key factor in your boat’s performance, and your
satisfaction; so don’t overlook it. Maintain it for peak power, performance
and efficiency. Consult YamahaOutboards.com/Propellers or your
authorized Yamaha Marine dealer for more information.
PROPELLER SOLUTIONS
Proper performance Needs
Scan to see a video
about propeller care.*
Scan to read more about
cleaning in Yamaha’s Prop Shop publication.*
It’s all in the eyes. Give your prop a good look as part of your pre-launch checklist. Are there any
bends, nicks, cuts or cracks? Any of these will rob performance and potentially cause damaging
vibration to your outboard. If found, get the prop examined and repaired by a qualified propeller
repair facility. Your local Yamaha Marine dealer is a great place to start.
Something missing? If you’ve noticed a decrease in your boat’s performance, but your outboard checks
out fine, you’d do well to suspect your prop. Suspended grit, sand and silt in the water slowly eat
away at your propeller’s edges. When this happens, your prop may
look perfect, but the worn edges can seriously degrade performance.
Beware corrosion. Even stainless steel props can experience surface
discoloration. But it’s easy to clean and protect most props. Try these simple tips:
•Rough Cast Mag Wheel Cleaner. Spray on (use caution near painted surfaces), do not let dry
or sit more than 30 seconds, agitate with dish sponge, rinse thoroughly, dry, apply paste wax.
•Toilet Bowl Cleaner, Hydrogen Peroxide, or Calcium Lime & Rust Remover. For spot cleaning:
spray on or put on a rag and wipe over stained area (do not allow to dry). Rinse thoroughly, dry,
and follow up with paste wax.
•Mild Rubbing Compound or Metal Polishing Paste. For difficult stains: apply to pad and rub in
a circular motion until stain is diminished. Buff with a clean cloth, apply paste wax.
Protect the propshaft.
Periodically remove your propeller(s),
check for fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft, then grease the prop shaft with
a high-quality, high-pressure marine-formula grease like Yamalube®Marine Grease or
Molybdenum Grease. This will help make it easier to get the prop off next time, especially in
saltwater. When re-installing your propeller, make sure to torque the prop nut to the manufacturer’s
specification, and always use a new cotter pin rather than re-using the old one.
Be prepared.
Just like a spare tire, you may need more than one prop. Whether you demand different levels of
performance or just want a spare for emergencies; having a second propeller is a very wise choice.
18

EXTERNAL APPEARANCE
BABY YOUR BABY
Nothing matches the pride you feel in your clean, well-maintained boat.
Keeping your rig looking and performing like new has longevity benefits,
too. Here are some tips and easy procedures you should perform
regularly to help protect and preserve your baby.
Scan here to see a video
about helpful boat cleaning tips.*
Make it easy on yourself. Just like you clean the
inside of your outboard by fresh water flushing after
each trip, thoroughly spray down your boat and the outside of your outboard with fresh, clean water.
Use a soft cloth and a mild, marine-specific cleaning agent, like Yamaclean®, then rinse it again.
A Yamalube®Marine Detailing Kit is a handy way to get the goods you need to help protect and
beautify the exterior; so you can take pride in your ride while you’re preserving it.
Note: Don’t use liquid dish soap or ordinary household detergents when washing your boat. They remove waxes
and other protective coatings your boat needs.
To protect and preserve. Don’t be afraid to spray the entire powerhead liberally with Yamalube®
Yamashield™. It not only helps give your powerhead that just-detailed look, but also helps prevent
the effects of corrosion. While you’re at it, protect and preserve the rubber seal between the cowling
and the engine pan with a high-quality silicone spray, like Yamalube Silicone Protectant & Lubricant.
This helps keep it supple to prevent water from entering this area.
Look out below. Keep things sharp and protected below deck. Use Yamaclean®Bilge Cleaner as
necessary, and spray your battery terminals with Yamalube Battery Terminal Cleaner & Protector.
Keep a clean hull for good looks and maximum performance, too. You’ll find commercially available
anti-fouling paints, coatings and materials to help get, and keep, your hull clean and free of marine
growth. There are Yamalube cleaners for that annoying waterline, too.
Keep it covered. Protect your outboard from the elements when not in use or when trailering by
using a custom-fit Yamaha engine cover. If your boat sits outside, a custom-fit boat cover is a
worthwhile investment. Even a tightly pulled tarp will help to a degree in this regard.
Whether washing, waxing, caring for your upholstery, cleaning isinglass, polishing stainless steel,
cleaning carpet or deodorizing life jackets and wet storage areas, you’ll find the marine-specific
formulas to make it easy and to do it right at your local Yamaha Marine dealer. Just look for the
yellow stripe on the Yamalube label.
Tip: If the products you need are not currently in stock,
ask that they be ordered, and accept no substitutions.
Insist on killer clean. Insist on Genuine Yamalube
cleaners and care products.
Scan to see a video
about external care.*
19

Some maintenance steps, like visual inspections, are best done every day,
while others, such as oil changes, are set up at certain intervals.
INTERVAL MAINTENANCE
Timing is everything
Yamaha provides easy-to-understand
information about how, and when, to perform
proper maintenance. Yamaha also offers
approximately 2,000 authorized Yamaha Marine
dealers from coast-to-coast, specially trained
and equipped to handle most of your outboard’s
maintenance needs. So whether you get the
parts from your Yamaha Marine dealer and
do it yourself or have them do the work for
you, you’ll rest assured knowing you’re doing
your part to help protect and preserve your
Yamaha outboard.
Getting started.
The most accurate and specific maintenance
interval information for your particular
outboard will be found in your owner’s manual
(YamahaOutboards.com/OwnersManuals).
We’ve also included a basic chart (at left)
to help give you an overview of what needs
doing, and when (indicated by yellow boxes).
To determine when service is due, keep your
eye on your hour meter. If you don’t have an
hour meter, it’s easy and inexpensive to install
one. Or, many Yamaha gauges already have
this functionality built in, allowing you to set
reminders at various intervals, and helping to
keep you on schedule. You can also utilize the
Yamaha Outboards Mobile App on your
smartphone.
Two Stroke
Four Stroke
Continuous Use
After First 20 Hours (New Outboard)
Every 50 Hours
Annually or 100 Hours
Winterization/Lay-up
YAMALUBE
®
4M FCW
®
•
YAMALUBE
®
2M TCW3
®
YAMAHA 10MICRON FUEL/WATER SEPARATING FILTER
•
YAMAHA ONENGINE FUEL FILTERS
+++ •
YAMALUBE
®
RING FREE PLUS FUEL ADDITIVE
YAMALUBE
®
FUEL STABILIZER & CONDITIONER PLUS
NGK
®
SPARK PLUGS
+++ •
YAMALUBE
®
GEARCASE LUBE
•
YAMAHA OIL FILTER
YAMAHA IMPELLER/WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY
•
YAMALUBE
®
POWER TRIM & TILT FLUID
YAMALUBE
®
YAMASHIELD
™
YAMALUBE
®
BATTERY CLEANER & PROTECTOR
YAMALUBE
®
STORRITE ENGINE FOGGING OIL
ENGINE FLUSH PROCEDURE
••
REPLACEMENT
SCHEDULE
= YES
+++ Clean (if applicable) or replace
• Please refer to your owner’s manual or consult with your authorized
Yamaha Marine dealer for specific requirements of your engine.
•• After each use, especially in salt or brackish water
20