Zipp EASY VEE Instruction Manual

Z I P P M A N U F A C T U R I N G
A Zippkits R/C Boat
Building Instructions
2014 JMP Hobby Group LLC
Indiana USA
[phone]
www.zippkits.com

Table of Contents
Introduction 1
S E C T I O N 1 - T H E F R A M E
Supplies needed to build 3
Equipment needed to run 4
Building Surface 5
Parts identification 5
Building Jig 8
Keel 8
Bulkheads and Spines 8
Engine rails 9
Stringers 10
S E C T I O N 2 - S H E E T I N G
Side Sheeting 12
Bottom Sheeting 13
Transom 14
Sealing interior 21
Deck Sheeting 24
Windshield 39
SECTION 3- EQUIPMENT
Radio Box 16
Fuel Tank 33
Running Hardware 30
Engine Mounting 27
Stuffing Tube 26
S E C T I O N 4 - P A I N T
Hull prep 35
Sanding and Filling 40
Primer and Paint 40
Decals 40
S E C T I O N 5 - A S S E M B L Y
Hardware Assembly 41
Setup 42
S E C T I O N 6 - R U N N I N G
Running 43
A L S O S E E :
Troubleshooting

E A S Y V E E
1
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this kit. We are sure that it will
provide you with many hours of enjoyment.
Please take the time to read this entire manual before building this
boat. You will become familiar with the building order, and less likely
to make mistakes.
This kit is not a toy. Although R/C boating is a fun and rewarding hobby, it can be
dangerous if not done with common sense and safety in mind. Just about anyone
should be able to build this kit, but it should not be operated by children without close
adult supervision.
Here are a few safety tips:
Never operate your boat alone. If you get hurt, you may not be able to
drive for help.
Never, ever operate your boat in an area where there are full size boats
or swimmers. If something happens, a 15 pound object traveling at 50+
mph can do serious damage.
Always use a failsafe. This shuts the engine off in the event of radio
signal loss. Test the failsafe each day of running, by shutting off your
transmitter.
Always carry a fire extinguisher, as gasoline is extremely flammable.
The manufacturer assumes no liability for damages or other loss in the use of
this product, as we have no control over the construction or end use of this
product.

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2
Purpose
This boat was designed as sport boat, which looks like the offshore race boats.
It is legal for racing in any mono class, due to its vee bottom, if you choose to
race.
You can build this boat without having the engine or radio, but it does make it
easier to have them available when you build.
You can use any gasoline engine (check the rules), as long as it has mounts
for 5 inch rails.
If you use a Zenoah or similar, you will generally use a collet type of cable
system.
If you use a Homelite, or similar sport engine, you will generally use a square
drive type.
This boat was designed for nearly any gasoline engine and muffler.
However, we recommend the Zenoah style engine and quiet tuned pipe for
maximum performance and reliability.

E A S Y V E E
3
Tools and supplies needed to build:
Small wood plane (mini plane)
Sanding blocks with 80 and 220 grit paper
Drill with bits
Right angle drill or attachment
Square
12x48 FLAT plywood (the thicker the better)
Medium CA glue and accelerator
Good quality 30 minute epoxy
Epoxy finishing resin
2 feet of 6 ounce fiberglass cloth, 3 inches wide
Medium sized rubber bands (3 or 4)
3 inch screws or nails
Waxed paper
Lots of clamps! Spring clamps, paper clamps, c clamps, etc.
Razor saw
Wide tape
Wood filler
Primer
Paint

E A S Y V E E
4
Additional items needed to complete:
Gasoline engine with 5 inch mounts (Zipp 3409 Zenoah mounts)
.250 Collet for engine (Zenoah type engines) (Zipp 3446 )
.250 24 inch cable w/welded stub shaft (Zenoah type engines) (Zipp 3444 )
.250-.250 brass ferrule (sport “trimmer” type engine) (Zipp 3433 )
24 inch section of square drive cable (“trimmer” type engine- get from trimmer)
¼ inch stub shaft (“trimmer” type engine) (Zipp 3447 )
¼ inch thrust bearing (“trimmer” type engine) (Aeromarine # 1502 )
Tuned pipe w/90 or 100 degree header or canister muffler (Zipp 2000/2010 or 2011)
2 channel surface radio with 1 standard and 1 heavy duty servo (100 in/oz minimum)
Throttle pushrod (Zipp 3462)
Rudder pushrod (at least “4-40” size) (Zipp 3463)
2 pushrod seals (Zipp # 3404 )
14-24 ounce fuel tank (or 500-750mL IV bag) and tubing (gasoline compatible)
.250 stinger type drive (Zipp 3401)
.250 drive dog (Zipp # 3405 )
70 mm prop (starting point) (Zipp 4000)
Prop nuts (Zipp # 3450 )
Cable grease (Aeromarine # 7145 )
Large rudder (water pickup type- Zipp #3402 or 3413)
3 feet large silicone tubing (water line, Zipp 3461)
Trim tabs and turn fin (Zipp 3417 and 3410)
36 inch length of 5/16 brass tubing (Zipp 3452)
Floatation (pool noodles, foam, etc.)

E A S Y V E E
5
Before we can start building, we need to do some prep work. Good prep work
will pay off later with a straight, true running boat.
First, we need a flat work surface. Nothing else will do.
If you don’t have a perfectly flat bench, you can make one with your piece of
12x48 plywood.
Simply screw a couple of 2x4’s lengthwise to the bottom. Make sure the 2x4’s
are straight!
You can then put this on a bench, and shim the corners to make it steady.
Or, if you are really pressed for space, you can set it on a couple of saw
horses.
The Build
We are ready to start the build!
Remember- The boat is being built upside down. Any reference to the top or
bottom refers to the boat’s top or bottom. If you are going to attach something
to the top, it would be closest to the bench. Right and left are always as you
are sitting in the boat, or from the rear.
Got it? If not, stand on your head as you build.
Let’s identify the parts in the sheets. Don’t remove the parts until you actually
need them, as some look similar, but are not the same.

E A S Y V E E
6
Please note that in some of the pictures, the boat shown may look different
from yours. This is because we make a whole series of boats that are
assembled in exactly the same way. Where it is important, we showthe
correct hull in the pictures.

E A S Y V E E
7
We like the Great Planes 11 inch bar sanders
Use good quality epoxy and finishing resin
Your life will be much easier with one of these
Acid brush trimmed for fast epoxy application

E A S Y V E E
8
Bulkheads 1 and 2 in place.
All bulkheads in place on jig..
Block clamped to bulkhead 5, keepingit flat.
Let’s get started.
Attach the jig board to your FLAT bench (or 12x48
ply) with screws, nails, clamps or whatever you
need, to make sure it’s attached to the surface.
Make sure the “F” is so that you can read it.
Remove bulkheads 1, 2, and 3 from the sheet.
Sand the edges with 80 grit to remove the fuzz, as
well as the little tabs that held them in the sheet.
Put bulkheads 1, 2 and 3 into the jig, engaging the
tabs in the slots.
Starting from the front of the jig, glue the tabs of
bulkhead 1 to the jig.
Use a square to ensure that it’s 90 degrees to the
jig. Also make sure that the tabs don’t protrude
under the jig.
Use CA and accelerator.
When dry and square, glue bulkheads 2 and 3 the
same way. Use the square.
Remove both keels.
Sand as before.
Using CA, glue both keels together. Be sure that
the keels are aligned with each other.
Clamp while drying.
Remove, sand and glue bulkheads 4 and 5 to the
jig as before.
Find the two ¼ ply engine rails. Sand them smooth
with 80.
Now look at bulkhead 5. Is it twisted or warped? If
so, clamp a piece of wood to the back of it for the
next few steps.
Remove the two keel supports from the sheet.
Sand the edges with 80, and glue them to the jig
board at the front. There should be about a ¼ inch
gap between the braces.
The keel should be dry by now.
Check the fit of the keel into bulkheads 1, 2 and 3.
If ok, glue it in, making sure the keel is centered on
bulkhead 1.
This kind of looks like a boat, doesn’t it?
Take a break, and give the glue a little while to
completely cure.

E A S Y V E E
9
Cutout rail on the correct side.
Keel supports, with rubber bands holding the keel.
Bulkheads and keel in place.
Check the fit of the engine rails into bulkheads 3, 4
and 5.
Be sure that the cutout rail is on the right side of the
boat. This will be on the left (from the rear), when
looking at the boat upside down. If ok, glue them in.
Wrap 2 or 3 medium sized rubber bands around the
keel supports, under the keel.
These keep the keel from bending or twisting as we
attach the stringers.

E A S Y V E E
10
Stringer flush with side.
Stringer flush with bottom.
Top stringer installed.
Stringers
Next, we will install the stringers. Make sure you
follow along closely, as these are very important to
the final shape.
Grab the four 1/4x1/4x48 sticks. Carefully check
them for knots or other imperfections. If you find
any, be sure they are installed towards the rear,
where the bend isn’t so great.
When fitting the stringers to the notches in the
bulkheads, they should be flush with the sides.
Most of the time, the stringers are not exactly
square, so if they are not flush with the sides, try
turning them. They usually measure .250x.260 or
so.
Having them flush will make building much easier.
Also, be sure that you glue the stringers so that
they are flat, in relation to the sides.
Using CA, glue one of the top (closest to the bench)
stringers to the notch in bulkhead 5.
You can lay it in the notch on bulkhead 4 while the
glue dries; just don’t glue it to 4 yet.
Hit the glue joint with accelerator. Hold it in place for
60 seconds or so.
When you are sure the glue is completely cured,
glue to bulkhead 4.
If bulkhead 4 is twisted or warped, straighten it
when you glue the stringers on.
They will hold it in place.
Hit that with accelerator, hold for 30 seconds or so,
then move ahead to 3, then 2, then 1.
While the glue is curing on 1, bend the stringer to
the keel, and hold it there until the glue joint on 1 is
cured.

E A S Y V E E
11
Cutting stringer with razor saw.
Top stringers glued flush with top of keel.
Bottom stringers glued in place.
The reason for gluing, holding for a few seconds,
then moving forward is because the shape of the
stringer changes as you move forward. Doing it this
way, the glue has not completely cured, and can be
“adjusted” a little, as you bend the stringer to the
next bulkhead. If you waited until each glue joint
was completely cured before moving on to the next
one, the stringer would take on a straight, angular
look, instead of the smooth curve it should.
With a pencil, mark the angle of the cut in the front
of the stringer, to fit on the keel, as you bend it
around.
Hold the front of the stringer firmly, and carefully cut
on the line with your razor saw.
Or, you can simply hold the stringer in place, and
cut it with the razor saw against the keel.
Don’t glue it to the keel yet.
Glue the other top stringer onto the bulkheads,
exactly the same way as before.
Trim the front with the razor saw.
Now you get to glue yourself to the boat! Try not
to…
Using CA, put glue on the ends of the stringers.
Squeeze both stringers together at the tip of the
keel.
Make sure that both are even, and flush with the top
of the keel.
Hit the joint with accelerator, and hold for a minute
or so.
Try not to glue your fingers to the stringers! If you
do, it could be rather embarrassing to have your
wife try to free you. She will use that story for life!
When you are sure the joint is secure, glue in the
bottom stringers.
Be sure they are fully seated in their slots before
spraying with accelerator.
Glue them to the bulkheads exactly the same way.
When you are ready to glue them to the keel, make
sure they are touching each other, and are in the
slot in the keel (see photo).

E A S Y V E E
12
Another view of the stringers at the bow.
Check the stringers for flatness before gluing
sides.
Side sheeting dry clamped in place.
When that is secure, put some glue in the area
where they all join, to give it a little extra strength.
Time for another break. Give your beautiful boat
skeleton at least 20 minutes to cure.
Call your wife in to look at it. She will either say
“that’s nice honey” or ask why you can build a boat
in a few hours, but the shelf you were going to build
will be 3 this year.
Blending the
stringers
Before we can glue the side sheeting in place, we
need to make sure the stringers are flat. Do this
with your sanding block and fresh 80 grit paper.
Sand the stringers, using your sanding block to
blend them at the front.
Check to see if your sanding block sits flat on the
stringers at all points. If it does not, the side
sheeting won’t either. The front of the stringers will
need a little bit of blending. The rear will need very
little, if any.
Sheeting
When the sides have been sanded and blended, it’s
time to start the sheeting.
Dry clamp the side sheeting in place.
Clamp and adjust the sheeting so that it overhangs
an equal amount on the top and bottom. Leave a
little hanging off of bulkhead 5 as well.
When it looks good, make a reference mark
somewhere that is easy to see. I make it between 3
and 4.
Mark a line on the stringer and the sheeting, so that
you can align the marks quickly when gluing.
Remove the clamps.

E A S Y V E E
13
Side glued and clamped in place. Use plenty of
clamps.
Side sheeting at bow. Note first side trimmed so
that second side fits.
Trim sides and stringers to the same angle as the
keel at the tip of the bow.
Using 30 minute epoxy, mix up about 1/2 ounce.
Stir very well.
Using a small stick or acid brush, coat the stringers
and bulkhead edges. Work quickly.
Make sure that all surfaces that will touch the
sheeting are coated. Try not to use so much that it
runs all over. Brush epoxy on the front 6 inches or
so of the side, to help strengthen the high stress
nose area.
Align the marks and start clamping, adjusting the
sheeting for equal overlap on the top and bottom.
Clamp thoroughly, but be careful not to distort the
stringers.
Using a new mixing container and applicator, do the
other side. You may have to trim the front tip of the
first side, so the second side fits.
Allow to cure at least 1 hour.
Bottom Sheeting
When the glue is fully cured on the side sheeting,
we will prepare the hull for the bottom sheeting.
Time to get intimate with your wood plane. If you
don’t have one, stop here. Go to the store and buy
one. Really.

E A S Y V E E
14
Bow trimmed to match keel line.
Sides and stringers planed and sanded.
Transom being glued to bulkhead 5.
The mistake most people make with wood planes is
trying to take off too much wood.
If you try to plane with the blade too deep, you will
gouge and split the wood.
Adjust your plane to remove about 1/64 of an inch
of material or so.
If you have never used a plane, practice on some
scrap wood before planing the sides.
What we are trying to do with the plane is to shave
the stringers and side sheeting to match the angle
of the bottom.
Starting from the rear, hold the plane at the same
angle as bulkhead 5.
Push down and forward, increasing the angle as
you move forward.
Use the angle on the bulkheads to determine the
angle that you hold the plane.
When you are close with the plane, switch to fresh
80 grit on your sanding block.
Match the angle of the bulkheads. Also, lightly
sand half of the keel at the same time, so that the
bottom sheet lays flat on the structure. Do not
change the shape of the keel, just match the angle.
The keel will have a slight “V” shape when you are
done.
Be very careful not to sand the keel too much,
or the bottom will not fit!
Sand the rear of bulkhead 5. Sand the stringers and
sides flush with the bulkhead.
Using 30 minute epoxy, glue the transom to the
back of bulkhead 5. Try to match the bottom “vee”,
and leave an equal overhang on the sides.
Clamp until dry.
Make a mark in the exact center of bulkheads 4 and
5. Make this mark on the edge, so that you know
how far to glue the sheeting.

E A S Y V E E
15
Bottom taped and clamped in place.
Be sure that the bottom sheet onlycovers half of
the keel. Clamp well.
Weight applied to keep bottom sheet against
engine rails.
Test fit the bottom sheeting in place. It should cover
exactly half of the keel. Also, sand a gradually
increasing bevel on the inside (center) edge, so that
both sheets will meet squarely.
Make sure the front is accurately aligned with the
center of the keel and that there is some overlap at
the rear.
When satisfied with the fit, make an alignment mark
on the bottom sheeting and the keel.
Cut about 8 pieces of wide tape, and set aside.
Mix about 1/2 ounce of 30 minute epoxy.
Using a small stick or acid brush, coat the stringers
and bulkheads where the bottom sheeting will
contact. Work quickly.
Also coat half of the keel.
Brush epoxy onto the first 6 inches of the front of
the sheet, to help the glue joint here.
Align your marks and put a couple of clamps along
the keel, clamping the sheeting firmly to the keel.
Check your center marks on bulkheads 4 and 5.
Wipe all excess glue off of the keel, as it will
interfere with the other side sheeting.
If everything looks good, start wrapping the wide
tape across the bottom sheeting.
Start at the keel, and pull the tape tight as you
attach it to the side.
Use as many pieces of tape as you need, to make
sure the bottom sheeting is tight to the keel, side
stringers and sheeting.
Look for any “crown” in the sheeting as a result of
taping. If it exists, use some weights to flatten it out.
Also put weight over the engine rail, to help hold it
against the sheeting.
For very inexpensive weights, break up some
cinder blocks. You can get many different shapes
and weights, and their rough surface helps keep
them in place.
After the glue fully cures (at least 2 hours), remove
the tape and clamps. Check for any glue that may
have squeezed onto the keel. Use a sharp knife to
scrape any away.

E A S Y V E E
16
Hard to see, but there is clear tape holding the
bottom sheet in place.
Bottom sheet taped and weighted in place.
Radio box parts, ready for assembly.
Take your time on the next step, it’s important.
Test fit the other bottom sheet, and make any
adjustments before you glue.
Make sure that both bottom sheets meet as
perfectly as possible.
Take your time here. Start from the rear. Put the
sheet in place, and note any areas that touch,
keeping the sheeting from meeting perfectly. Use
your block with 80 to sand these “high” spots.
Move forward and sand, fit, sand, fit, until it fits
perfectly. Be sure to sand a progressively sharper
bevel, so that the bottom sheets fit tightly together.
The goal is to have a nice, tight joint that is straight.
Try to keep the gap to less than 1/32.
Glue the other side of the bottom sheeting on the
same way as the first, only this time you can’t use
clamps.
Tape the crap out of it, put weights on it, and set
aside.
Make sure that the bottom sheet is in contact all the
way around. Clamp the nose, if necessary.
Let’s build the radio box while the glue cures on the
hull.
Radio Box
Remove all of the radio box parts: Two long sides,
two short sides, the top and bottom, as well as the
1/16 ply top.
Sand all the parts smooth with 80.
Lay a piece of plastic wrap or waxed paper on your
bench.

E A S Y V E E
17
Use a square when gluing sides together.
Sides ready for assembly.
Sanding bottom of box.
Using CA, glue the two small sides to the two long
sides.
The small sides go between the long ones.
Use a square.
Put glue on the edges, and join the two box halves
on the bench.
Lightly sand the bottom of the box.

E A S Y V E E
18
Bottom installed
1/8 birch plytop ready to install.
1/8 plyradio box top ready to install.
Glue on the bottom.
Lightly sand the top.
Glue the radio box top on.
This is the 1/8 inch Birch top.
Take a break for a few minutes, so that the radio
box glue joints can cure.
Using 80 grit, sand the overhang on the top and
bottom so that it’s flush with the sides.
Sand the top with 180 or 220 grit paper on a block.
Carefully remove the lid from the 1/8 ply radio box
top.
Sand the edges smooth.
Glue the 1/8 ply top to the radio box.
It has a slightly larger hole for the lid, so try to
center it so that the “lip” is even all around.
Make sure that you don’t get any glue in the “lip”, as
it will interfere with the way the lid seats.
The lid will be sealed with plastic tape when running
the boat.