Aeronaut Capri User manual

0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
11
We recommend our aero-pick
modelling pins, Order No. 7855/02, for
holding parts together during
construction.
Introduction:
The model should be assembled following the sequence of the stages of construction described in these instructions.
The laser-cut components are individually numbered. The manufacturing method leaves small tabs on some parts
which have to be cut away using a thin-bladed modelling knife. The dark edges of the laser-cut parts should also be
rubbed off using abrasive paper in order to obtain sound glued joints. Check that all components fit accurately before
reaching for the glue, and carry out any minor trimming required. Allow all glued joints to dry out fully before starting
the next stage of construction. We recommend a fast-setting white glue for all joints. If water-soluble glue is used,
corrections are possible simply by moistening the appropriate area, even after the joint has dried. Once painted over,
the glue becomes waterproof in any case. Please take care to prevent adhesive running onto the untreated
mahogany parts and any external surfaces which will be visible on the finished model, as the glue will show up
through the final painted finish. We recommend that you apply a thin coat of sanding sealer (Order No. 7666/02) to
the mahogany components before gluing, followed by rubbing down with 320-grit abrasive paper. The whole of the
boat - inside and out - must be given several coats of clear waterproof boat lacquer before it is placed in the water, as
this seals the wood and the glued joints. If you have to glue parts to areas which have already been lacquered, use
two-pack adhesive for those joints.
Lay the Depron jig 0 on a flat surface, or fix it to a flat surface using double-sided
adhesive tape.
Insert all the frames 1 - 9 in the slots in the Depron jig. Chamfer the front and top of the
keel 10 at an angle of 30° on both sides, to provide a flat gluing surface for the hull
sides and bottom panels.
Fit the forward keel 10 in the central notches of frames 5 - 9. Insert the two fore-and-
aft bearers 11 in frames 1 - 6.
1
Order no. 3083/00
Capri
Power system:
Race 650 electric motor Order No. 7124/18
2-blade boat propeller, 35 mm Order No. 7165/61
Multi 25 speed controller Order No. 7019/71
LiPo (2 - 3S) or NiMH (7-cell) battery

Press all the frames down onto the sub-
surface in order to align the framework
accurately. Apply glue to all the corner joints
between the components.
12
12
1
1
Glue former 12 to the rear face of frame 1.
To avoid unsightly glue patches, apply a thin coat of
sanding sealer to the mahogany face of the hull side
panels 13. Chamfer the front end of the hull sides at an
angle of about 30° (see arrow) on the light-coloured inside
face, so that they form a sharp front edge when curved
inwards at the bow (next stage). Tape the side panels
together at the front, applying the masking tape on the
mahogany face.
2
3
4
13

Fit the bow end of the hull sides 13
against the keel 10, then lower them
steadily, slotting them into the tab
notches of the frames as you go. Press
the hull sides fully against the keel 10 at
the bow, and ensure that they overlap
the stern frame 1.
Now apply white glue (or cyano-acrylate) to the
chine (change in angle) of the frames to glue
the hull sides to them over a distance of about
5 mm.
Caution:
Ensure that the hull sides 13 are pressed down
fully into the tab slots in the frames, and that
the bottom of all the frames makes contact with
the sub-surface. It is a good idea to weight the
structure down with books while the glue is
drying.
1
13
13
10
13
Tape together the two hull bottom
panels 14 using paper masking
tape.
Glue the notched strips
15 to the hull sides 13.
The teeth should
project by about 1 mm.
5
6
7
8
15
15
13
14
14

Lay the joined bottom panels 14 on the hull
framework.
Caution:
Don't glue them at this stage!
1
6
14
13
All the parts can now be glued together from the inside:
remove the structure from the jig to gain access, then
replace it on the jig 0 once the glue has been applied,
ensuring once more that all the frame tabs make contact
with the sub-surface. You may need to weight the hull
down again, using books or similar.
From frame 1 to 6 the bottom panels 14
fit between the hull sides 13, but from
frame 6 to frame 9 they rest on the edge
of the hull sides 13. Tape everything
together securely using paper masking
tape; you will also need to use pins at
the bow.
9
10
11
13
14
14

16
17
18
Assemble the boatstand from parts
16 - 18.
Sand down the wide face of the
triangular rails 19 at the front to reduce
their thickness, then glue them to the
hull bottom panels 14 and the edge of
the hull sides 13.
Break off the jig tabs from the keel and frames,
and sand off any rough edges.
Glue the transom 20 to the rear face of the hull.
Fit the stern tube 21 in the hull, but do not glue
it at this stage.
Screw the motor (not included in the kit) to
frame 6, slip the propeller shaft 22 through the
stern tube 21, and connect the shaft to the
motor using the coupling 23. Check that the
motor shaft and the propeller shaft rotate
smoothly, then glue the stern tube 21 to the hull
using two-pack adhesive.
Allow the glue to set hard, then remove the
motor and shaft from the boat.
22
23
6
21
24
20
21
12
13
14
15
19
19
14
13

29
26
28 29
31
31
32
Fit the rudder bush 26 through the hole in the hull bottom; it
should project on the underside of the hull by 3 mm. Fit the
bush supports 28 and 29, and glue the bush to the hull and
the supports.
Glue the keel wedge 30 between the
stern tube 21 and the hull bottom panels
14.
32
Glue the stringers 31 + 32 in the
channel between the frames and the
hull sides.
16
30
21
14
17
18

Insert the cabin sides 33
in the notches in the
frames, sliding the sides
back as far as they will
go until they engage in
the notches in frame 1
(see arrow).
Glue the stringers 34, 34.1, 35 + 36 in place
as shown.
Glue the battery support 37 and the servo plate
38 inside the hull. Allow the glued joints to dry
out thoroughly before applying three coats of
sanding sealer or clear boat lacquer to the
whole of the interior of the hull.
19
20
21
33
33
37
38
1
34
35
36
34.1

The curved fairings 44 are formed in a press jig consisting of the 2 x 10 mm parts
S1. Glue the parts of the jig together and let the glue set hard. Glue three strips
of mahogany veneer (0.6 x 30 x 80 mm) together, place them between the press
jig components S1, and squeeze them together using one or two screw-clamps.
Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours before shortening the curved fairing 44 by
cutting through at the notch positions using a fretsaw.
Temporarily join the
window frame components
using paper masking tape,
and glue the corner joints.
22
23
25
26
S1
S1
Glue the foredeck 41 to the boat,
securing it with paper masking tape.
Allow the glue to set hard before gluing
the foredeck doublers 42 and the curved
fairings 44 in place.
24
41
42
44
44
45
45
39
39
40
43
43.1
33
Glue the frame 43.1 to the
frame 43, then glue this
assembly between the cabin
sides 33 at the marked point.
Glue the after deck 40 in place,
followed by the side deck
panels 39.

49
50
47
47
46
49
50
Insert the front cockpit wall 48 in the
cockpit floor, then engage the front
end of the two cockpit sides 47 in
the slots in the cockpit floor 46.
Place this assembly in the hull and
slide it forward until it rests against
the frame. Raise the floor 46 slightly
at the rear, and press the cockpit
sides down until they rest on the
frames. Now press the floor 46
down onto the frames.
48
50
Insert the bench seat front panel 49 in
the notches in the cockpit floor 46.
Check that everything fits properly,
then carefully glue parts 46 to 49
together.
Caution: these parts must not be glued
to the hull, as the whole cockpit is
designed to be detachable. Glue the
bench seat supports 50 to the cockpit
sides 33 behind the front panel 49.
33
51
51
52
52
Glue the bench seat base 51 to the
front panel 49 and the side supports
50. Glue the rear cockpit wall 52 to
the seat base 51 and to the cockpit
sides 33.
Caution: take care not to glue the
wall to the frames 43 and the after
deck 40.
33
33
40
26
27
28

53
54
55
53 55
Glue the door 53 and the brackets
54 to the front cockpit wall, then
glue the instrument panel
backplate 55 to the brackets 54.
55
56
S3
S4
61
62
Assemble the seat jig from parts S3 + S4.
Glue the seat squab 55 to the seat backrest 56
on the jig; this ensures that the angle matches
that of the armrests.
Glue the foam padding 61 to the seat, and
cut off the excess flush with the edges.
Glue the artificial leather covering 62 to the full face
of the foam padding 61. The slits on both sides
should coincide exactly with the change in angle of
the foam.
61
The artificial leather is stretchable, and can now
be pulled over the edges of the seat - without
creases if possible - and glued to the edges of
parts 55 + 56. Take care not to leave open slits
at the corners.
62
56
30 31
32 33
29

63
Glue the artificial leather panel 69 to the
back of the seat.
Bend the left and right armrests 70 to shape
and glue them to the seat as shown.
Glue the pedestal 57 to the underside of the
seat. Repeat the procedure with the second
individual seat.
Finally slip the base flanges on the
pedestals, and glue the seats to the cockpit
floor.
57
34
The bench seat is assembled from
parts 58 + 59 in the same manner as
the individual seats, using the same
jig. The padding consists of parts 64
+ 65. Glue the completed bench seat
to parts 51 + 52.
35

60
66 67
67
68 69
55
Glue the tube 60 in the hole in part 55; it
should project at the front by about 8 mm.
Assemble the steering wheel from parts
66 - 69, and glue the nickel-silver boss to
the front to finish it off.
Bend the nickel-silver rod 79 to follow the shape of the
bathing platform 70, and glue it to the edge of the
platform; the ends should project by about 10 mm. Drill
1.5 mm holes in the transom, then insert the rod ends
and glue the platform to the transom.
70
79
20
36
37
38

71
74
Glue the fittings and the remaining
etched parts 74 to the boat.
Glue the forward hatch cover 71 to
the etched nickel-silver rails.
39
72
72
72
73
71
120
0
80
60
TEMP
Water
40
X 100 RPM
40
Engine 60
30
20
70
50
0
10
80
OIL
40
0
TEMP
120
80
60
PRESS U RE
18
12
0
4
16
2
10
8
6
Petrol 1
3/4
0
1/4 1/2 20 120
0
60 80
PSI
140
Oil
Pressure
120
0
80
60
TEMP
Water
40
X 100 RPM
40
Engine 60
30
20
70
50
0
10
80
OIL
40
0
TEMP
120
80
60
PRESS U RE
18
12
0
4
16
2
10
8
6
Petrol 1
3/4
0
1/4 1/2 20 120
0
60 80
PSI
140
Oil
Pressure

25
27
77
76
75
Screw the motor to the frame, and slip the
propeller shaft 22 into the stern tube 21. Join
the shafts using the coupling 23 and the collet
24, and tighten the clamping screws.
Screw the locknut 25 onto the propeller
shaft. Screw the propeller (not included in
the kit) on the shaft, and tighten the locknut
25 against it.
Slip the shaft of the rudder 27 through the
rudder bush 26.
Fit the tiller arm 75 on the rudder shaft 27
and tighten the retaining screw.
Install the (standard-size) steering servo.
Bend the wire pushrod 76 to shape, and
connect it to the servo output arm and the
tiller arm. Press the two plastic keepers 77
into place.
26
41
42
22
23 21
24
40 The glazing panels are laser-cut and are an accurate fit
in the window openings. Do not remove the small lugs
left by the laser cutter, and do not remove the protective
film on both sides of the panels.
Press the glazing panels into the appropriate openings;
the small lugs will hold them in place. Now apply clear
adhesive (not cyano-acrylate), pressing the glue into the
joints from both sides using a finger. Carefully peel off
the protective film when the glue has set hard.

No. Description Material Quant. Size Part Sheet
0 Jig Depron 1 Die-cut
1 Frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
2 Frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
3 Frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
4 Frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
5 Frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
6 Frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
7 Frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
8 Frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
9 Frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
10 Forward keel Plywood 1 2 mm Laser-cut
11 Fore-and-aft bearer Plywood 2 3 mm Laser-cut 2
12 Former Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
13 Hull side panel Plywood 2 1.2 mm Laser-cut
14 Hull bottom panel Plywood 2 0.8 mm Laser-cut
15 Notched strip Plywood 4 0.8 mm Laser-cut
16 Front boatstand support Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
17 Rear boatstand support Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
18 Boatstand bearer Beech 2 10 Ø x 300 mm Oversize
19 Triangular rail Maple 2 6 x 6 x 8.5 x 660 Oversize
20 Transom Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 3
21 Stern tube Brass 1 7 mm Ø Ready-made 7155/30
22 Propeller shaft Steel 1 4 mm Ø Ready-made 7155/30
23 Coupling Brass 1 3.17 / 4 mm Ø Ready-made 7035/68
24 Collet Brass 1 4 mm Ø Ready-made 5842/40
25 Locknut Brass 1 M4 Ready-made 7773/04
26 Rudder bush Tube 1 4/3 Ø x 50 mm Ready-made
27 Rudder Plastic / metal 1 Ready-made 7024/10
28 Rudder bush support Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
29 Rudder bush support Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
30 Keel wedge Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
31 Front stringer Spruce 2 2 x 4 x 293 Oversize
32 Rear stringer Spruce 2 2 x 4 x 410 mm Oversize
33 Superstructure side Mahogany 2 2.5 mm Laser-cut 3
34 Front deck stringer Spruce 2 3 x 5 x 225 mm Oversize
34.1 Deck stringer Spruce 2 3 x 5 x 85 mm Oversize
35 Rear deck stringer Spruce 2 2 x 5 x 410 mm Oversize
36 Deck beam Spruce 1 5 x 5 x 255 mm Oversize
37 Battery support Spruce 2 5 x 5 x 245 mm Oversize
38 Servo plate Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
39 Side deck Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 4
40 After deck Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 4
41 Foredeck Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 4
42 Foredeck doubler Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 4
43 Frame Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 4
43.1 Frame Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 4
44 Curved deck fairing Mahogany 2 0.5 x 30 x 250 mm Veneer
45 Front window frame Mahogany 1 2.5 mm Laser-cut 3
46 Cockpit floor Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 5
47 Cockpit side Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 4
48 Cockpit wall Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 4
49 Bench seat front panel Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 4
50 Bench seat support Plywood 2 3 mm Laser-cut 5
51 Bench seat base Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 5
52 Rear cockpit wall Mahogany 1 2.5 mm Laser-cut 3
53 Door Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 4
54 Instrument panel bracket Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 4
55 Instrument panel backplate Plywood 2 3 mm Laser-cut 5
56 Backrest Plywood 2 3 mm Laser-cut 5
57 Pedestal Aluminium 2 6 Ø x 40 mm Oversize
58 Bench seat squab Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 5

No. Description Material Quant. Size Part Sheet
59 Bench seat back Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 5
60 Steering column Brass tube 1 3/4 Ø x 20 mm Oversize
61 Individual seat padding Foam 2 5 mm Laser-cut
62 Individual seat covering Artificial leather 2 Laser-cut
63 Individual seat armrest Nickel-silver 4 0.3 mm Etched
64 Bench seat padding Foam 1 5 mm Laser-cut
65 Bench seat covering Artificial leather 1 Laser-cut
66 Steering wheel shaft Brass 1 3 Ø x 25 mm Oversize
67 Steering wheel Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 4
68 Steering wheel core Nickel-silver 1 0.3 mm Etched
69 Steering wheel boss Nickel-silver 1 0.3 mm Etched
70 Bathing platform Mahogany 1 2.5 mm Laser-cut 3
71 Forward hatch cover Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 4
72 Cleat Metal 4 Ready-made 5403/23
73 Fanfare Metal 1 Ready-made 5682/31
74 Etched parts set Nickel-silver 1 Ready-made
75 Tiller arm and clamping screw Aluminium 1 Ready-made 7492/11
76 Wire pushrod Steel 1 1.8 Ø x 80 mm Ready-made 7730/18
77 Pushrod keeper Plastic 2 Ready-made 7489/07
78 Glazing panel Plastic 24 Laser-cut
79 Nickel-silver rod Nickel-silver 1 1.5 Ø x 300 mm Ready-made 7731/66
S1 Press jig Plywood 3 + 3 3 mm Laser-cut 1
S3 Seat template Plywood 2 3 mm Laser-cut
S4 Seat template Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut