Aeronaut Princess User manual

aero
naut
Order No. 3081/00
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aero-naut Modellbau GmbH & Co. KG, Stuttgarter Str. 18, D-72762 Reutlingen
1
2
3
15
5
5
6
6
7
7
8
8
9
9
10
11
11
2
2.1
0
0
12
Introduction:
The model should be assembled following the sequence of the stages of construction described in these instructions. Each subsequent stage then
shows the previous sub-assembly or procedure in completed form.
The laser-cut components are individually numbered. The manufacturing method leaves small tabs on some parts which have to be cut away using a
thin-bladed modelling knife. The dark edges of the laser-cut parts should also be rubbed off using abrasive paper in order to obtain sound glued
joints. Check that all components fit accurately before reaching for the glue, and carry out any minor trimming required. Allow all glued joints to dry
out fully before starting the next stage of construction. We recommend a fast-setting waterproof white glue for all joints involving the wooden
structure; please take care to prevent adhesive running onto the untreated mahogany parts and any external surfaces which will be visible on the
finished model, as the glue will show up through the final painted finish. We recommend that you apply a coat of sanding sealer (Order No.
7666/02) to the mahogany components before gluing. The whole of the boat - inside and out - must be given several coats of clear water-resistant
boat lacquer before the model is placed in the water, as this waterproofs the wood and the glued joints. If you have to glue parts to areas which
have already been lacquered, use two-pack adhesive for those joints.
Power system:
Race 650, Order No. 7124/18, with seven Sub-C cells or 2S LiPo, three-bladed 40 mm Ø propeller, M4, Order No. 7160/06
actro C5, Order No. 7002/35, with ten Sub-C cells or 3S LiPo, three-bladed 50 mm Ø propeller, M4, Order No. 7160/10
Speed 700, approx.1500 KV (rpm / V), with ten Sub-C cells or 3S LiPo, three-bladed 50 mm Ø propeller, M4, Order No. 7160/10
2+2.1
3
4
1
We recommend our aero-pick modelling pins, Order No.
7855/02, for use throughout construction.
Glue the frames 2 + 2.1 together with the edges flush.
Insert the frames 1 - 11 and the brace 15 in the
slots in the jig 0. Frame 7 is prepared as standard
to suit an actro C or 650-size motor. If you intend
to fit a larger motor, you will need to modify frame
7 to suit.
Carefully insert the keel 12 in the notches in
frames 5 - 9, 11 and in the jig 0 at the bow; note
that the keel 12 must end flush with the top of
the frames. Frame 7 supports the motor (see
Stage 22), and therefore must be fitted at an
angle.

17
17
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
13
13
1
3
4
5
6
7
14
16
16
11
18
3
4
1
3
4
5
4Insert the two fore-and-aft bearers 13 in the slots
in frames 1 and 3 - 7, and press them fully into the
notches; note that the bearers 13 must not project.
Press frame 1 against the bearers 13 from the rear.
5
16
12
Position the plywood template 18 between
frames 3 + 4 to ensure that the whole
structure is “square”. Glue all the corner
joints involving parts 1 - 13. Do not glue the
template 18 in place, as this is removed again
at a later stage.
6
7
16
14
12
Insert the two curved deck support
formers 16 in the notches in the keel 12
and frame 11; it should also rest on the
brace 15.
The curved formers 16 must not project beyond
the keel 12 and frame 11.
Bevel the central edge of the rear keel components 14
so that they fit snugly in the notches in frames 1 and
3 - 5, then glue them in place.
15 11
2
3
11
17
8
1Glue the rails 17 to frames 1 - 11; parts 17 must be pressed
fully into the notches in the frames; this is particularly
important at frame 11 at the bow. Use modelling pins to hold
the rails 17 in place.

19 19
19
12
12
19
11
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
1
9
19
19
19
19
9
19
19
Glue together the front end of the three chine
stringers 19 over a length of 150 mm. Trim the
joined stringers to fit neatly against the keel 12,
and offer them up to the keel 12 and frame 11.
Use a sanding block to sand back the stringers
19 so that they do not project beyond the front
edge of the keel 12 at the sides and forward.
Glue the stringers to the keel 12 and frame 11,
and allow the glue to set hard.
10 Glue the stringers 19 in place as far as frame 9, keeping them
parallel. Continue by gluing only the upper and lower stringers
to frames 1 - 8, then allow the glue to set hard. The central
stringer 19 can now be glued between the upper and lower
stringers; these parts define the chine of the hull. Once the
glue has set hard, carefully sand the stringers to follow the
shape of the frames.

20
20
21
21
12
11
23
12
23
23
23
11The next step is to trim the side stringers 20 + 21 to fit against the
keel 12 and glue them in place. Press the strips into the notches in
frame 11.
When the glue has set hard, glue the stringers 20 in the notches in
frames 1 - 11.
Note that the side stringers 20 must be pressed fully into the
notches in the frames, especially where they meet frame 11 at the
bow. Secure the stringers with modelling pins.
When the glue has set hard, glue the stringers 21 in the notches in
frames 7 - 11. Pin the parts in place.
23
12 Seal the mahogany face of the side panels 23 with a coat of
sanding sealer, and allow it to dry for about twelve hours. Sand
the front end of the side panels 23 at an angle (arrow) on the
light-coloured inside face, so that they form a sharp front edge
when glued to the keel 12 (see Stage 13); see arrow.
Caution: take care to bevel the inside face of each panel, i.e.
one left, one right!
13 Tape the side panels 23 together at the front, applying
the tape on the mahogany side, i.e. the bevelled light-
coloured surface on the inside. The two side panels can
now be glued to the hull, from the centre of the keel 12
to the stern frame 1. Start at the bow, and fix the side
panels in place with spring clamps and pins. The side
panels 23 must rest on the jig tabs of frames 1 - 11 and
on the jig tab of the keel 12 at the bow.
Wipe off excess glue immediately using a damp cloth.

24
24
24
23
23
Apply more glue to the joints
between the side panels 23 and the
frames and stringers from the inside
of the hull.
14
Caution: take care to identify the left
and right sides during the next stage.
Chamfer the inside (centreline) edge
of both hull bottom panels 24 (see
arrows), to produce a sharp edge on
the outside of the joint. Lay the two
bottom panels 24 flat on the bench
and tape them together as shown.
Do not apply glue at this
stage!
15
Lay the bottom panels 24 on the hull and
tape them to the structure starting from the
rear on the right-hand side, ensuring that the
edges meet accurately along the centre. At
the bow there will be a gap about 6 mm
wide, as the material is too stiff to
accommodate the curvature.

24
24
24
26
23
24
23
Kielteile
24
12
23
26
16
Caution !
The next three stages, which are described
on this page, must be carried out while the
glue is still soft. This means that there is
little time for adjustment, so please check
once more that the bottom panels 24 are an
accurate fit before reaching for the glue.
Remove the bottom hull panels 24 and
apply glue to the inside of the central joint.
Continue with the next stages 17 + 18
immediately, i.e. before the glue has a
chance to set.
1
17
18
Apply glue to frames 1 - 11, the keel 12,
the fore-and-aft bearers 13, the keel
components 14 and the stringers 17 + 19 -
21, then lay the bottom panels 24 on the
hull, aligning them with the side panels 23
at the bow.
Press the bottom panels 24 together at the
bow to remove any gap, and pin the parts
in place. Now pull the bottom panels 24
against the side panels 23 as shown, using
plenty of strips of adhesive tape. Ensure
that the bottom panels overlap frame 1.
Sand the wide face of the triangular stringers 26
over a length of about 50 mm from the front end
(keel 12), so that they taper and take up a pointed
shape towards the bow. Starting at the half-way
point and working towards the bow, saw half-way
through the triangular stringers 26 at 10 mm
intervals, as this makes it easier for them to
conform to the curvature of the hull. Glue the triangular rails 26 to the hull, with
the outside edge flush with the bottom
panels 24, overlapping the side panels 23
towards the stern, and secure them with
strips of adhesive tape.

29
29
27
28
30.5
30.5
30
30.5/30.6
Motor
Motor
Motor
22
7
19 The boatstand can now be
assembled: glue parts 27, 28 + 29
together in pairs, and glue these
assemblies to the bearers 29 when
20
The finished boatstand.
From this point on the hull should be left in
the stand for all construction work.
21
Break off the jig tabs from the keel 12 and the
frames 1 - 11, and sand away any rough
edges. Remove the plywood template 18.
All the hull components should now be sealed
with three coats of clear waterproof lacquer on
the inside, to ensure that the interior of the
hull is waterproof. Do not paint the top edges
to which the deck is to be glued.
30
Fix the electric motor to the motor bulkhead
(frame 7) using the screws and washers
supplied. Oil the sintered bushes in the
shaft tube 30.
30
23
Slip the propeller shaft and shaft tube 30 into the hull, and connect
the shaft to the motor shaft using the coupling sleeve 30.5 or 30.6;
check that the propeller rotates freely.
Seal the outside end of the shaft tube 30 with adhesive tape before
gluing the shaft tube to the rear keel 14 and the bottom panels on
the inside of the hull using two-pack adhesive.

24
30
31
22
36
33
32
34
34
35
35
36
4
5
6
7
8
24
25
23
22
Glue the keel wedge 31 between the hull bottom 24 and the shaft
tube 30. Ensure that the propeller is still free to rotate.
Glue the deck support rails 22 in the notches
in the top of frames 1 - 11, and secure them
with screw-clamps: press the rails 22
outwards as far as they will go, i.e. towards
the hull sides 23.
26
25
Glue the cockpit support rails 36 in
the notches in frames 4 - 8; the rails
must be pressed fully into the
notches in the frames. Glue the
transom 25 to the outside of frame 1.
27
28
23
Glue the rails 34 in the deck surround 32 at
the front, followed by the main deck 33.
Glue the fabric tape over parts 32, 33 and
34 to bridge the joints. Turn the prepared
deck over.
Sand back the top of frames 1 - 11, the
hull rails 17 and the rest of the upper
hull components so that all these parts
are the same height as the hull side
panels 23. The deck 32 can now be
glued to the hull, securing it with spring-
clamps and strips of adhesive tape as
shown.

37
37
39
40
41
38
38
38
38
38
32
39
37
32
2
3
4
5
6
40
38
37
29
30
31
32
Glue the supports 38 to the cockpit side
panels 37. Place both side panels in the
hull, with the supports 38 on the inside. The
side panels 37 must butt up against the
edge of the deck 32; you may need to sand
back the deck support rails 22 slightly to
achieve this.
The side panels 37 must fit between the
deck 32 and frames 2 - 7. Use the cockpit
floor 39 to press the side panels 37 against
the frames; at the same time the floor
panel 39 must rest on the supports 38.
Glue the cockpit floor 39 to the side panels
37, but do not glue the front 70 mm.
Check that the cockpit back panel 40 fits
vertically before gluing it to the cockpit
cradle.
Insert the couch floor 41 in the slot in the
cockpit back panel 40 and press it down
onto the supports 38 between the side
panels 37.
Glue the corner / edge joints of parts 37 -
41.

42
43
44
45
46
47
48
37 2
41
37
32
2
32
48 47
13
33
34
35
36
Glue together the two parts 44 at the
tabbed joints to form the back panel, and
press this assembly against the top edge of
frame 2 between the side panels 37. Do
not glue it to frame 2! Glue the partition
wall 42 to the couch floor 41 and to the
side panels 37, keeping the panel vertical.
Glue the cladding 43 to the partition wall
42.
Glue the side support rails 45 to the outside
of the side panels 37, after masking off the
deck 32 with adhesive tape to avoid the
rails becoming stuck to it. The rails 45
should end flush with the side panels 37 at
the front, and project by 5 mm at frame 2.
Trim the rear support rails 46 (see next
stage) to fit between the side rails 45.
Leave all the glued joints to set hard, then
carefully remove the cockpit cradle from the
hull before applying more glue to the
corners from the underside.
Glue the rear support rails 46 to frame 2
and the deck 32 from the rear.
Glue the battery support rails 47 to the
bottom of frames 1 - 7. Glue the RC
installation plates 48 to the fore-and-aft
bearers 13 between frames 5 and 6.

54
55 54
40
53
Measure the distance between the holes in the servo output arm and the tiller, and
set the 1.5 mm Ø rudder pushrod to the correct length by bending both ends at
right-angles; the angled ends should be 8 mm long. Fit the pushrod through the
output arm and the tiller, push the retaining clip 54 onto the tiller 53, swivel it
round and clip it onto the pushrod 55. Fit the second retaining clip at the servo
output arm in the same way.
52
51
38
39
53
Epoxy the rudder shaft
51 in the rudder blade
52. Sand the rudder
blade 52 to the correct
profile.
The rudder is assembled
from parts 51 and 52.
Slip the rudder through the bush 49 from
the underside of the hull, fit the tiller 53
on the top end and tighten the retaining
screw.
37
49
50
13
Adjust the opening in the servo plate 50 to
suit your rudder servo, and glue it in the
notches in the fore-and-aft bearers 13.
Glue the rudder bush 49 and the rudder
support plate 50 in the hull using two-pack
adhesive; the bush should project from the
underside of the hull by 6 mm.

56
58
59
60
37
37
39
40 42
61
62
63
64
64
79 80
81
61
58
5
10
15
20
25
42
43
44
41
Glue the bow doublers 56 to the deck,
leaving a gap about 2 mm wide to the
outside edge of the deck. Round off the
edges slightly.
Glue the cockpit front panel 58 in place
between parts 37 and to the floor 39. Pull
the side panels 37 together using adhesive
tape before gluing the joints.
Glue the deck covers 59 and 60 to parts 40
and 42.
Glue the instrument housing 62 in the
instrument panel 61. Cut out the printed
instruments 63, give them a coat of
waterproof lacquer and glue them to the
reverse of the instrument housing 62.
Fold the cockpit wall padding 64 along the
longitudinal centreline and glue the mating
faces together. Glue these parts to the
cockpit wall, flush at the top, and cut them
away at the front as shown.
Glue the sleeve 79 in the instrument panel
61 and to part 58; the sleeve 79 should
project out of the instrument panel 61 by 30
mm, in the direction of the seat. Glue the
shaft 80 in the steering wheel 81. When the
glue has set hard, slide the shaft and
steering wheel into the tube 79.

65
66
67
67
67
67
69
70
71 75
66
70
73
73 73
71
66
73
73
72
74
74 74
73
86
87
47
48
45
46
49
Glue the backrests 66 and 70 to the seats
65 and 69, followed by the uprights 67.
These are fitted under the seats; note that
the low end of the uprights should be
under the backrests.
Glue the backrest padding 71 and 75 to
parts 66 and 70, keeping the edges flush.
The seat covering 73 can now be stuck to
the padding 71: glue the upper part of the
covering 73 to the edge of the backrest 66,
secure it with adhesive tape, then glue the
side flaps of the covering 73 to the edges of
the backrest 66, again using adhesive tape
to secure them. Check that the edges fit
together neatly at the corners. If not, use a
small pair of scissors to make minor
adjustments.
Glue the padding 72 to the seat with the
edges flush. Glue the seat covering 74
centrally to the padding 72 and push the
flap projecting at the top between the seat
and the backrest. Pull the front edge down
and glue it to the seat. Repeat the
procedure with the side flaps. The bench
seat can now be padded and covered using
the same method.
Glue the covering 87 to the mattress
padding 86 and glue the projecting flaps to
the edges of the padding 86.

95
96
25
mm 0
7
97
98
88
89
90
Speed
Controller
RC-
Reciver
Drive battery
Servo
Motor
92 91
52
53
50
51
54
92
Sand the windscreen frame 95 and curve it
to shape. Bend the three retaining tongues
so that they can be inserted vertically in the
slots in the deck. Glue the windscreen 96 to
the frame.
Glue the rubbing strake 97 to the transom
25 at the rear of the hull, at a point 70 mm
below the deck; you will need to trim the
strake 97 to line up neatly with both sides
of the hull. The lateral rubbing strakes 98
can now be glued to the sides so that they
overlap both ends of the strake 96. At this
stage the entire boat should be given
several coats of clear waterproof lacquer
until a smooth, glossy surface is obtained.
Insert the windscreen retaining tongues in
the slots in the deck, and bend the tabs
over slightly under the deck to secure the
screen.
The bathing ladder 92 is bent to
shape from the German silver rod
supplied. Fit the bathing ladder
treads 91, each with two rosettes
93 on top. Drill 2.5 mm Ø holes
in the transom at the marked
points, and glue the bathing
ladder in place, taking care to
make the joints waterproof. Glue
the two-part truck (89 + 90) to
the tip of the flagpole 88.
Overview of the internal components:

84
83
83
85
99
100 101
102
1 = Plywood 1
2 = Plywood 2
3 = Plywood 3
B = Main deck
M = Mahogany
MA= Mahogany - obechi
55
The throttle control is assembled from parts
83 - 85; glue the assembly to the inside
wall on one side of the skipper’s seat.
The fittings 99 to 103 can now be glued to
the model.
Your boat is now ready for the water, but
first you should check everything
thoroughly one last time. Before the
maiden run it is important to carry out a
range check with the radio control system.
Part Description Material No. Size Laser
No. sheet
0 Jig Depron 1 3 mm die-cut
1 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm 1
2 Hull frame Mahogany plywood 2 1.5 mm M
2.1 Frame doubler Plywood 1 3 mm 2
3 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm 2
4 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm 1
5 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm 1
6 Half-frame Plywood 2 3 mm 2
7 Hull frame (mtor bulkhead) Plywood 1 3 mm 1
8 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm 3
9 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm 1
10 Hull frame Plywood 1 2 mm 4
11 Hull frame Plywood 1 3mm 1
12 Front keel Plywood 1 2 mm 4
13 Fore-and-aft bearer Plywood 2 3 mm 2
14 Rear keel Plywood 2 2 mm 4
15 Brace Plywood 1 3 x 26 x 100 mm 2
16 Curved deck support former Plywood 2 3 mm 1
17 Hull rail Spruce strip 2 1.5 x 8 x 820 mm
18 Template Plywood 1 3 mm 2
19 Stringer (chine) Spruce strip 6 3 x 3 x 920 mm
20 Stringer (side) Spruce strip 2 3 x 5 x 940 mm
21 Stringer (bottom) Obechi strip 2 3 x 5 x 370 mm
22 Deck support rail Obechi strip 2 5 x 5 x 820 mm
23 Hull side pane Mahogany / obechi 2 MA
24 Hull bottom Plywood 2 1 mm
25 Transom Mahogany plywood 1 1.5 mm M
26 Bottom stringer Triangular, lime strip 2 5 x 940 mm
27 Boatstand, front Plywood 2 3 mm 3
28 Boatstand, rear Plywood 2 3 mm 3
29 Boatstand bearer Plywood 4 2 mm 4
30 Shaft tube Brass 1 7 x 345 mm
30.1 Shaft Stainless steel 1 4 x 380 mm
30.2 Collet Brass 1 4 mm
30.3 Nut Brass 1 M 4
30.4 Teflon washer Plastic 2 2 x 4 Ø x 7 Ø mm
30.5 Coupling sleeve Brass 1 3.2 / 4 mm Ø shaft
30.6 Coupling sleeve Brass 1 5 / 4 mm Ø shaft
31 Keel wedge Plywood 1 3 mm 2
32 Surround deck Mahogany plywood 1 1.5 mm M
33 Main deck Mahogany / maple 1 1.5 mm B
34 Rail Lime 2 1 x 2 x 335 mm
35 Fabric tape Cotton 2 13 x 350 mm
36 Cockpit support rail Obechi strip 2 5 x 5 x 480 mm
37 Cockpit side panel Mahogany plywood 2 1.5 mm M
38 Support Mahogany 8 1.5 mm M
39 Cockpit floor Plywood 1 3 mm 2
40 Cockpit back panel Plywood 1 3 mm 3

Part Description Material No. Size Laser
No. off sheet
41 Couch floor Plywood 1 3 mm 3
42 Partition wall Plywood 1 3 mm 3
43 Partition wall cladding Mahogany 2 1.5 mm M
44 Back panel Mahogany 2 1.5 mm M
45 Side support rail Mahogany 2 4 x 4 x 530 mm
46 Rear support rail Mahogany 1 4 x 4 x 175 mm
47 Battery support Spruce strip 2 5 x 5 x 540 mm
48 RC installation plate Plywood 2 3 mm 2
49 Rudder bush Brass 1 7 Ø x 50 mm
50 Servo / rudder support plate Plywood 1 3 mm 1
51 Rudder shaft Brass 1 3 Ø x 80 mm
52 Rudder blade Plywood 1 3 mm 1
53 Tiller Aluminium 1 Ready made
54 Retaining clip Plastic 2 7489/07
55 Rod German silver 1 1.5 x 98 mm
56 Deck doubler Mahogany 2 1.5 mm M
57 No part
58 Cockpit front panel Plywood 1 3 mm 2
59 Deck cover 2 1.5 mm B
60 Deck cover 2 1.5 mm B
61 Instrument panel Mahogany 1 1.5 mm M
62 Instrument housing Metal 1 Ready made
63 Instrument set Paper 1 Printed
64 Cockpit side wall padding Artificial leather 2 20 x 280 mm, die-cut
65 Seat Plywood 2 3 mm 3
66 Backrest Mahogany 2 1 mm, die-cut
67 Seat upright Plywood 6 3 mm 3
69 Bench seat Plywood 1 3 mm 3
70 Bench backrest Mahogany 1 1 mm, die-cut
71 Back padding Foam 2 15 mm, die-cut
72 Seat padding Foam 2 15 mm, die-cut
73 Backrest covering Artificial leather 2 Die-cut
74 Seat covering Artificial leather 2 Die-cut
75 Bench seat back padding Foam 1 15 mm
76 Bench seat padding Foam 1 15 mm
77 Bench seat backrest covering Artificial leather 1 Die-cut
78 Bench seat covering Artificial leather 1 Die-cut
79 Steering wheel sleeve Brass tube 1 4 Ø x 3.1 Ø x 70 mm
80 Steering wheel shaft Brass rod 1 3 Ø x 85 mm
81 Steering wheel Metal 1 Ready made
82 Collet Metal 1 3 Ø , 5842/30
83 Throttle control Mahogany 2 1.5 mm M
84 Throttle control Mahogany 1 1.5 mm M
85 Throttle control German silver 1 1.5 Ø x 25 mm
86 Mattress padding Foam 1 15 mm
87 Mattress covering Artificial leather 1 Die-cut
88 Flagpole German silver 1 2.5 x 100 mm
89 Flagpole truck Mahogany 1 1.5 mm M
90 Flagpole truck Mahogany 1 15 mm M
91 Bathing ladder tread Mahogany 3 1.5 mm
92 Bathing ladder frame German silver 2 2.5 Ø x 250 mm
93 Rosette Plated brass 11 Ready made
94 Padding over instrument panel Artificial leather 1 10 x 215 mm, die-cut
95 Windscreen frame Aluminium 1 Laser-cut
96 Windscreen Plastic sheet 1 Die-cut
97 Transom rubbing strake Mahogany 1 6 x 6 x 280 mm
98 Lateral rubbing strake Mahogany 2 6 x 6 x 300 mm
99 Bow peak Metal 1 Order No.
100 Cleat Metal 3 Order No.
101 Fanfare Metal 1 Order No.
102 Ventilator Metal 2 Order No.
103 Exhaust Metal 1 Order No.
104 ‘Princess’ name placard Plastic film 1 Printed
1 = Plywood 1
2 = Plywood 2
3 = Plywood 3
B = Main deck
M = Mahogany
MA= Mahogany - obechi