American Changer VALICHANGER AC250 Series User manual

1
VALICHANGER
OPERATIONS MANUAL
SERIES AC250
American Changer Corp. Parts & Service:[phone]
1400 NW 65TH Place Sales:[phone]
Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309 Fax:[phone]
Internet Address: www.americanchanger.com
Service Questions?: e-mail [email protected]
Table of Contents
SECT. A: SET-UP & INSTALLATION
Uncrating & Setup 3
Filling the Hopper 3
Using the Dump Mode 3
DISABLE KEYS 3
DIP Switches 3
Keypad Temp Counter 4
Fuses 4
Functional Descriptions 4-5
Indicator Lights 5
Coin Control Hopper (Filling) 5
Wiring definitions 5
HOPPER ERROR CODES 5
SECTION B: COIN HOPPER
INFORMATION 6-12
SECTION D: TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION 13-14
SECTION E: PARTS LISTS
Parts Hopper MKIV 15
Parts Cabinet List 16
Rev. MONO A-40 Jan’04
Specifications
Operating voltage 120 VAC +10/-15 %
Power consumpt.(controller only, add hopper and validator)10w
Operating temperature 32 - 130 degrees Fahrenheit
Interface to Hoppers 24vdc & 12vdc 1.5 amps max.
Warranty
Dispensing System, Keypad and Logic Board
The dispenser and logic board is warranted
for one year from date of purchase.
COVERED
¥ Defects caused by material or workmanship.
NOT COVERED
¥ Damage caused by physical abuse.
¥ Misapplication.
¥ Vandalism.
¥ End Users attempt, on his own to repair.
A Return material authorization number (RMA#) must be
obtained before returning a unit for repair . A copy of invoices
must accompany any and all warrantee work.

2
Attention Please:
To ensure the most trouble-free machine operation, we recommend plugging all our machines into a
DEDICATED AC outlet. (This means there are no other machines on location plugged into the same
AC line.) A simple way to check if this is true is to turn off the breaker at the fuse box associated
with our machine. No other machines on location should lose power or turn off.
American Changer is now building in a Surge Suppressor on every main logic board made after
September 1st, 1998. This will help eliminate power related noise problems for our customers. It
will not protect you from large voltage spikes or lightning strikes over 150VAC.
If this is a concern for your area of business, we recommend purchasing a surge protector locally
NOTE: A POWER STRIP IS NOT A SURGE PROTECTOR.
AC ____________ S/N# __________________
Tested By ___________________________
Date __________________
Thank You,
American Changer Corp.
[phone]

3
UNCRATING AND SET-UP
Remove your AC250 changer from the shipping box. Open
the door. (The T-handle is a screw-in type and therefor, must
be turned at least 10 times counter-clockwise until it opens.)
Inspect for any connectors or components that may have been
dislodged during shipping. The lock and keys for your
changer will be inside the manila envelope along with this
manual. To install the lock, insert the cylinder into the round
hole in the middle of the T-handle and push until it stops.
Now turn the key and lock until you hear it “snap." Turn the
key counter-clockwise ¼ turn and remove the keys.
TEST:
Before permanently installing the changer, do a functional test
to verify that there is no shipping damage to your new
changer(s).
Extend the power cord through the hole in the back of the
changer or the bottom and plug it into a grounded 120vac
outlet. The dip switches are already set for a 1 coin per
keypad entry pay-out of the hopper.
Fill the hopper with at least 100 coins. On the main logic
board turn the switch on the bottom right corner “ON". (SEE
FIG. 1 ON PG.3) The rocker switch has a “1” and “0”
printed on it. When the “1” is pressed down the changer is
“ON”.
THE KEYPAD DISABLE KEYS
The other set of keys are for the Keypad ON/OFF
switch in the back of the AC250. These keys will
disable the AC250’s Keypad if you ever have to leave
the counter unattended. Before leaving the machine,
turn the keyswitch and remove the keys. Now the
keypad is disabled. The machine will not payout by
using the keypad.
FILLING THE HOPPER
When the hopper has less than 80 - 100 coins left in it the red
“Empty” LED will light on the front of the changer.
Whenever the “Empty” LED is “ON” the validator is disabled
and it will no longer accept bills.
1. Turn OFF the power on the main logic board.
2. Slide the hopper out from the cabinet and insert the coins
through the opening on the top. There must be at least
enough coins to cover the two gold plates at the bottom
of the hopper. (Somewhere between 160 and 1600
coins minimum to maximum.)
3. Slide the hopper back into the hopper plate. Do not use
excessive force!
4. Turn “ON” the power switch. The “Empty” LED is now
off and the bill validator is ready to accept bills.
USING THE DUMP MODE TO EMPTY THE HOPPER
1. Open the cabinet door.
2. Turn OFF the POWER switch.
3. Place a suitable container in front of the hopper to catch
the coins.
4. Press and hold the “DUMP” button on the upper left
corner of the Main Logic Board. Turn ON the Power
switch. The red LED on the main logic board will come
on then go off. Once the red LED goes off, release the
“DUMP” button. If it is not released within two seconds,
the “DUMP” mode is canceled as a security feature. The
hopper will dispense coins until the POWER switch is
turned OFF. If the Red LED on the Main Logic Board is
not flashing 3-5 times per second the dump mode was not
accessed. Please try again.
THE DIP SWITCHES
The AC250 series changer is capable of dispensing from 0 to
31 coins per dollar. Setting the coins out per dollar is
controlled by which Dipswitches turned “ON." (Refer to
figure 1 for their location.) For example, switch #1 is “ON”;
therefor the pay out equals 1 coin per coin enter into the key
pad.
FIGURE 2
The following table shows how to set the dip switches to your
desired pay out.
“ON” COINS PER DOLLAR
#1 1
Dip switches #2-#8 should remain in the “OFF” position.
ON
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
A-
40
BILL
METER
ON/OFF
SWITCH
EPRO
M CHIP
Fi
g
ure
PRIMARY
2 1/2 AMP
FUSE
1
0
00001
DUMP
BUTTON
TRANSFORMER
HOPPERS
HARNESS
CONNECTORS
DIPSWITCH
Validator
Harness
Connector.
AC LINE
CORD INPUT
NOTE: The only way to get a duplicate set of keys
made is to save the red tag that comes between the
keys. This ID # starts with ACC ####.
Write your Key # Here ACC_____________.
ALL KEY ORDERS TAKE 4-6 WEEKS!!!

4
KEYPAD HIDDEN COUNTER FEATURE
The remote keypad has a hidden resettable counter kept on the
keypad itself. To access this counter hold the keypad and
press the #7-#4-#1 keys SIMULTANEOUSLY. The number
that appears is your meter count. To clear the counter, press
the #9-#6-#3 keys SIMULTANEOUSLY. The meter count
has now been reset to zero.
NOTE: THIS COUNTER IS NOT THE METER COUNTER
THAT IS NON-RESETTABLE LOCATED ON THE LOGIC
BOARD INSIDE THE MACHINE! Please open the door to
access that counter.
FUSE
High voltage fuse: This is the primary transformer AC fuse
for the main logic board and the validator. Any direct short of
the Transformer or validator will cause this fuse to blow.
Replace this fuse with a 2-½ amp AS fuse only.
REPLACING THIS FUSE WITH ANYTHING OTHER
THAN A 2 ½ AMP “AS” MAY RESULT IN A FIRE OR AN
UNSAFE WORKING CONDITION!! (See fig. 1 for
location of this fuse.)
Low voltage fuse: This is the secondary transformer fuse for
the 5 - 28 vdc sections of the main logic board and hopper. It
is located to the left of the transformer. (See fig. 1) Replace
this fuse with a 2-½ amp AS fuse only. REPLACING THIS
FUSE WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN A 2 ½ AMP
“AS” MAY RESULT IN A FIRE OR AN UNSAFE
WORKING CONDITION!!
Functional Description of the Series AC250Changer
To follow along with this walk-through of your changer, fill
the hopper with coins and turn the changer on.
1. When power is applied the out-of-service LED flashes
then goes out. The green LED on the main logic board
comes on steady, and the red LED on the main logic
board will light then go off then flicker on once per
second in the standby mode.
2. During the power-up mode the main logic board relay
clicks twice enabling power (120vac). When this relay is
not enabled it routes 12vdc ground to the out-of-service
LED. Without any power to the validator the changer
cannot accept bills. Since we are not in the error mode,
the red LED on the validator logic board is on steady.
3. When the “Enter” button on the keypad is pressed it
grounds the 5vdc lines causing a pulse along the yellow
and blue validator harness wires to pins 5 and 15 of the
main logic board. Each pulse stands for the number on
the keypad display, i.e. 5 means the ground line was
pulsed 5 times.
4. The 5vdc pulse then travels from pins 5 and 15 to the
EPROM chip (MONO A-31) pin #25. The EPROM
sends a 12vdc pulse to the meter chip (U5) out pins #21
& 22 (one pulse per denomination validated ).The
EPROM also multiplies the ground pulse by the DIP
switch settings (The EPROM reads the DIP switch
settings during the power up mode and stores them into
memory.)
5. The EPROM then sends the hopper pulses out pin #23 to
pins 6 and 7 of the red 12-pin hopper plug. These pulses
travel through the purple and brown wires of the hopper
wire harness to the hopper pins 8 and 12.
6. The hopper turns itself on with the first hopper pulse.
The hopper counts the hopper pulses sent from the
EPROM chip on IN3 (pin 12) while dispensing the coins
at the same time. When the amount of hopper pulses in
equals the coins dispensed through the coin counting
optical sensor the hopper turns itself off.
7. The Changer returns to the standby mode with the red
LED flashing once per second until another bill is
inserted.
NOTE: THE METER ON THE MAIN LOGIC BOARD
CANNOT BE RESET TO ZERO!!!
Functional Descriptions of Out-of-Service Conditions
Out-of-Service conditions occur for the AC250 changer for
the following reasons; low coins, hopper fault error, validator
fault, or a blown fuse.
1. Blown Fuse: an AC power spike in line voltage or a bad
transformer on the main logic board can cause A blown
fuse on the main logic board. If either fuse blows the
indication is the green LED on the main logic board will
not light.
A. Replace the fuse. If the green LED now lights then
there was a spike.
B. If it does not and the fuse blows again the power
transformer is shorted. To test the transformer use a
voltmeter set for ohms and measure across the
primary (40ohms) and the secondary (1.5ohms).
2. Hopper Fault: A hopper fault can either be a jammed
hopper, a blocked coin counting optic or a bad hopper
logic board.
A. Indications for a jammed hopper are the changer
accepts bills, the meter counts up, but nothing or
not enough coins are paid out.
1. After 2 minutes the EPROM shuts off the
validator if the coins are not paid out correctly.
The “Empty” LED will flash once per second.
2. At this point the three options open are to
attempt repair on your own, call your
distributor, or return the hopper to American
Changer.
B. Indications for a blocked coin optic or bad hopper
logic board are the out-of-service LED on the
outside of the changer is lit and the red LED on the
main logic board is lit and flickers off once per
second.
1. If two of the 3 green LED’s on hopper logic
board are lit then the hopper logic board is
bad.
2. If there is a coin or foreign object caught in
the coin exit window LED’s #1 and #3 will
be lit on the hopper logic board instead of
LED’s #1 and #2.
a. Take off the side of the hopper with 5
Philips screws. Pull up on the exit
window logic board and look for the
jammed item.
b. Ensure you have the pins aligned before
reconnecting logic board.
3. Low Coins: The low coin condition is probably the most
common fault. The EPROM on the main logic board is
constantly checking for low coins in the hopper. This is
done with a low current 5vdc signal on pin #3 of the
hopper output connector. The voltage then travels down
the hopper wire harness on the white wire to pin #7 of
hopper plug. The signal is applied to one of the gold low
contact plates at the bottom of the hopper. The 5v travels
through the coins through the other contact gold plate to

5
hopper pin #2. It then goes through the black wire in the
hopper harness to pin #10 on the main logic board. Any
interruption of more than 1/2 a second will cause an out-
of-service condition.
A. Clean the bottom gold plates of the hopper with
steel wool or fine sandpaper. Refill the hopper and
try again.
B. Check continuity, (0 ohms) resistance, from pins 3
(white) and 10 (black) of the red hopper harness.
Make sure the hopper full and the changer turned
off.
1. If the continuity is 0 ohms, replace the main
logic board.
C. Pull the hopper out of the changer, then look at the
12 pin black male connector that sticks out of the
hopper. Place the continuity checker’s leads on
pins 2 & 7.
1. If the continuity is 0 ohms, replace the hopper
plate or adjust the hopper plate’s female
socket’s pins so that they are not so spread out.
2. If the continuity is infinity, then replace the
hopper.
Indicator Lights
Main Logic Board:
1. Green LED on: AC power applied to the logic
board. All fuses are good.
2. Red LED
A. Heartbeat - 5 and 12vdc present. The changer is in
standby waiting for a bill pulse.
B. On Steady - Out of service, Hopper error detected.
Coin Control Hopper MKIV
Three green LED indicators are fitted on the hopper and are
visible in the section where the coins exit the hopper. From
left to right these are designated as follows:
1. Logic power supply on (12 & 24vdc present).
2. Security optical obstruction indicator -. Should be ”on”
when unit is OK.
3. Output indicator, indicates coin passing photo-sensor.
This is the optical sensor the coin will obstruct on its way
out of the hopper. For normal operation LED # 3 will be
off until coins are dispensed.
Coin/Token Sizes
The hopper will automatically adjust to dispense coins/tokens
in size from 20-30 mm in diameter and 1.25 - 3.5 mm in
thickness.
There is an option available to dispense smaller coins.
A nickel is approximately 21 mm, a quarter is approximately
25mm. A Susan B. Anthony is 28mm
WIRE HARNESS COLOR AND DEFINITIONS
Keypad harness:
Yellow - +5vdc credit pulse line.
Blue - -5vdc credit pulse line.
Orange - +12vdc Empty LED.
Brown - -12vdc Empty LED.
Hopper Harness
Gray - Coin counting optic status line.
White - Low coin sense (+5vdc).
Green - Coin counting optic pay out feedback line.
Yellow - Raw sensor output line.
Purple - Hopper pay out line from main logic board (+),
Brown - Hopper pay out line from main logic board (-).
Red - +12vdc logic board supply voltage.
Black(s) -12v, 24v low coin sense ground.
Orange - +24vdc Motor supply voltage.
HOPPER ERROR CODES
With the digital display the logic board is now able to convey
exactly why the “Empty” LED is lit. Press the “Dump”
button while the “Empty” LED is lit. On the Light-up
display the meter count will go away while holding the button
down. These are the error code definitions:
1---- – Hopper was shut down completely.
-2--- - Hopper Exit Window LED is blocked.
--3-- - Low Coin Failure.
-23-- - Hopper is not Plugged into the Hopper Harness.
---4- - Hopper is Jammed.
----5 – Hopper Overpaid 2 Coins and was shut down.
Refer to the Troubleshooting section of this manual to repair
these failures.
12 pin male
connector.
(located on the
opposite side.) Motor
Coin counting optic.
12vdc Power LED.
Security LED.
(all systems OK)
Coin counting
LED.
Hopper coin
bin. (Dump
the coins
into this
hole. 1600
coins max.)
1 2 3 4 5
Press & hold
“Dum
p
” button

6
MKIV UNIVERSAL
HOPPER
SERVICE MANUAL
INDEX
1. Coin box removal & reassemble. 7-9
2. Exit window replacement. 8
3. Logic board replacement. 9
4. End plate removal. 9
5. Track plate removal. 10
5a. Track plate assembly. 11
5b. Track plate replacement. 11
5c. Final drive gear replacement. 12
6. Gearbox assembly. 13
7. Motor replacement. 13
To un-jam a hopper start with “End Plate
Removal”, page 10.
PAGE

7
1. COIN BOX REMOVAL
1. Place the hopper in front of you as shown, (looking at
the outside of the ‘coin box’).
Refer to FIG 1.
2. Remove the 2 locking nuts, which hold the ‘low level
sense plate’ wires to the studs.
3. Remove the crimp & wire from the studs.
Refer to FIG 1a.
4. Remove the 5 screws indicated (B), which hold the
‘coin box’ to the ‘center plate’.
Refer to FIG 1b.
6. Gently lift the ‘coin box’ away from the rest of the
hopper.
NOTE:- The ‘logic board’ & ‘stirrer’ are
located in the ‘coin box’.
7. As the ‘coin box’ is being removed, carefully slide the
‘logic board’ out. The stirrer may stay with the ‘coin
box’ or fall onto the center plate.
ACCESS IS NOW AVAILABLE TO THE ‘LOW
LEVEL’ SENSE PLATES, THE MAIN PCB, THE
EXIT WINDOW, THE MOTOR TERMINALS &
PART OF THE WIRING LOOM.
1a. COIN BOX ASSEMBLY
1. Firstly, locate the ‘stirrer in the ‘coin box as shown in
FIG 12.

8
1. COIN BOX REMOVAL
2. Place the hopper in front of you as shown, (looking at
the outside of the ‘coin box’).
Refer to FIG 1.
3. Remove the 2 locking nuts, which hold the ‘low level
sense plate’ wires to the studs.
4. Remove the crimp & wire from the studs.
Refer to FIG 1a.
5. Remove the 5 screws indicated (B), which hold the
‘coin box’ to the ‘center plate’.
Refer to FIG 1b.
7. Gently lift the ‘coin box’ away from the rest of the
hopper.
NOTE:- The ‘logic board’ & ‘stirrer’ are
located in the ‘coin box’.
8. As the ‘coin box’ is being removed, carefully slide the
‘logic board’ out. The stirrer may stay with the ‘coin
box’ or fall onto the center plate.
ACCESS IS NOW AVAILABLE TO THE ‘LOW
LEVEL’ SENSE PLATES, THE MAIN PCB, THE
EXIT WINDOW, THE MOTOR TERMINALS &
PART OF THE WIRING LOOM.
1a. COIN BOX ASSEMBLY
2. Firstly, locate the ‘stirrer in the ‘coin box as shown in
FIG 12.

9
COIN BOX ASSEMBLY (cont.)
2. Line up the ‘centre plate’ & ‘coin box’ as shown
below. FIG 12a.
3. Route the ribbon cable as shown below.
4. Fit the ‘logic board’ into slots shown below.
5. Feed the level sense wires through the slot shown
below.
6. Lift the ‘centre plate’ to meet the ‘coin box’. FIG 12b
& c.
7. Align the ‘center plate’ & ‘coin box’ & push together.
8. Turn the hopper over & refit the screws.
9. Refit the level sense wires.
2. EXIT WINDOW REPLACEMENT
1. First, remove the ‘coin box’, section 1.
This will then enable access to the ‘exit window’
2. Unscrew & remove the 2 fixing screws. FIG 4.
3. Remove the ‘exit window’ from the ‘center plate’.
4. Unclip & remove the 10-way ribbon cable header.
5. To re-assemble, follow the above steps in reverse.

10
3. LOGIC BOARD REPLACEMENT
1. First, remove the ‘coin box’, section 1.
This will then enable access to the ‘logic board’.
10-way ribbon IDC socket (CONN 1).
2. Move the two ejector arms at right angles to & away
from the connector, if fitted.
3. This should release the socket from the header.
4. Clasping the connector between thumb & forefinger,
pull away from pin header.
14-way crimp socket (CONN 2).
5. Gently, unclip the “friction lock” from the connector
housing.
6. Clasping the connector between thumb & forefinger,
pull away from pin header.
7. The Logic Board is now released.
8. To re-assemble, follow the above steps in reverse.
4. END PLATE REMOVAL
1. Place the hopper in front of you as shown, (looking at
the outside of the ‘end plate’).
Refer to FIG 6.
2. Remove the 9 screws indicated (B), which hold the
‘end plate’ to the ‘center plate’.
3. Locate the position of the ‘connector blanking piece’.
4. Holding the ‘connector blanking plate’ gently lift the
‘end plate’ away from the rest of the hopper.
5. To re-assemble, follow the above steps in reverse.
5. TRACK PLATE REMOVAL
1. 1. First, remove the ‘end plate’, section 6.
See FIG 7.
2. The ‘elevator track’ & ‘final drive gear’ can now be
removed by lifting up & away from the ‘center plate’.

11
5a. TRACK PLATE ASSEMBLY
The following 3 sketches show how to take the ‘track plate’ apart.
The following 3 sketches show how to assemble the ‘track plate’.

12
5b. TRACK PLATE REPLACEMENT
1. The gray shaded area, in FIG 7b, is the ‘track plate’ guide path.
FIG 7b.
2. Once the ‘track plate’ is in position, turn the track through 720 0to ensure it is seated in the guide path correctly.
5c. FINAL DRIVE GEAR REPLACEMENT
1. Once the ‘elevator track’ is in place, the ‘final drive gear’ can be fitted by placing the gear over its mounting spindle,
while lining the teeth up with the secondary drive gear, adjust the ‘elevator track’ so that the gear falls into place.
FIG 7c.
2. The end plate can now be re-fitted. See section 6.

13
6. GEAR BOX ASSEMBLY
1. Remove the end plate. Section 6.
2. Remove the ‘elevator track’ & ‘final drive gear’.
Section 7.
3. Remove the gearbox cover. Section 8.
4. Remove the gears in the order as shown in FIG 9.
Access to the motor fixing screws is now possible.
5. To re-assemble, follow the above steps in reverse.
7. MOTOR REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the ‘coin box’. Section 1.
2. Unsolder the red & black wires from the motor.
NOTE: The black wire connects to the terminal
marked with a RED dot.
3. Remove the ‘end plate’. Section 6.
4. Remove the ‘track plate’ & final drive gear. Section
7.
5. Remove the gearbox cover. Section 8.
6. Disassemble the gearbox. Section 9.
7. Unscrew the 2 motor fixing screws. FIG 10.
8. To re-assemble, follow the above steps in reverse.

14
Problem:
A. The changer is completely
dead. (The green LED on the
main logic board is not lit.)
B. The “Empty LED is lit.
When the red LED on the
main logic board is observed,
the LED is flickering on
briefly once per second.
C. The “Empty LED is lit.
When the red LED on the
main logic board is observed,
the LED is on Steady.
D. The green LED on the main
logic board is lit but the red
LED never lights.
E. The Keypad displays the
requested token payout but the
meter never counts up.
F. The Keypad displays the
requested token payout, the
meter counts up, but the hopper
does not pay out.
Solution:
1. Ensure the changer is plugged in.
2. Ensure the on/off switch is rocked to the (1) position (down) .
3. Unplug the female end of the line cord from the main logic board AC
connector and plug it in again tightly.
4. Measure the AC voltage at the outlet or check the breaker/fuse box.
You can also plug another item into the AC wall outlet to ensure
there is power present at the outlet.
5. Inspect the AC line cord for cuts or abrasions.
6. Check both fuses on the Main Logic Board.
7. Replace the main logic board.
8. Replace the line cord.
1. Ensure the hopper is not out of coins. (There should be enough
coins in the hopper to cover the gold low-level contact plates.
These plates are located at the bottom of the hopper where you pour
the coins.)
2. Check the hopper wire harness that extends from the back of the
plate that the hopper slides in and out on for chipped pieces or other
damage. (Pay close attention to pins # 2 & 7.)
3. Clean the gold contact plates with steel wool.
4. Replace the hopper.
5. Replace the hopper wire harness.
1. Ensure the hopper is pushed into the hopper harness on the back of
hopper plate tightly.
2. Ensure that left and center green hopper LED’s are lit only. Not the
left and right LED’s. If this is the case go to pg. 19 to unjam the
hopper exit window.
3. Replace the hopper.
4. Replace the hopper plate.
1. Bad 5 or 12vdc regulator on the main logic board.
2. The hopper is shorted.
3. Replace main logic board.
4. Replace hopper.
1. Check continuity and for pin damage to the blue and yellow wires on
the validator harness.
2. Replace the validator wire harness.
3. Replace the validator.
1. Ensure the dip switch settings are still correct. (#3 “ON” only)
2. Check the continuity of the brown and purple wires on the hopper
wire harness.
3. The hopper is jammed. Go to pg. To unjam the hopper.
4. Replace the hopper wire harness.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
TO USE THE TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE, MATCH UP THE PROBLEM, THEN FOLLOW THE
SOLUTION SUGGESTIONS. After every step try operating the changer to see if the problem has been solved.

15
PROBLEM:
J. The red “empty” LED on
the outside of the changer is
on, the red status LED on
the main logic board is
flickering on and off
normally, and the hopper is
full of coins.
M. The red “Empty” led on
the outside of the changer
is flashing once per second.
FOR TECHNICAL SERVICE
OR TO OBTAIN A RETURN
AUTHORIZATION NUMBER
CALL [phone]
SOLUTION:
1. Ensure the hopper is not out of coins. (There should be enough coins
in the hopper to cover the gold low-level contact plates. These plates
are located at the bottom of the hopper where you pour the coins.)
2. Check the hopper wire harness that extends from the back of the plate
that the hopper slides in and out on for chipped pieces or other
damage. (Pay close attention to pins # 2 & 7.)
3. Clean the gold contact plates with steel wool.
4. Replace the hopper.
5. Replace the hopper wire harness.
1. The hopper is jammed.
2. The hopper did not pay out what it was told.
3. Service the hopper Pg. 21-24.
4. Replace the Hopper wire harness.
ANY REPAIR RETURNED WITHOUT A RETURN
AUTH. # WILL BE REFUSED!!
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
TO USE THE TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE, MATCH UP THE PROBLEM, THEN FOLLOW THE
SOLUTION SUGGESTIONS. After every step try operating the changer to see if the problem has been solved.

17
#1
#3
#4
#5A
#6
#7
#8
#10
#11
#16
#17
#18
#12
#13
#14
#15
#18
#19
#20
#23
#21
#5B
#2
#1 - 1041-24-01
Motor
#2 - 1041-24-02
Motor Side Cover
#3 - 1041-24-03
Center Plate
#4 - 1041-24-04
End Plate
#5A- 1041-24-05
Counting Optic Board
#5B- 1041-24-06
Optic ribbon cable.
#6 - 1041-24-07
Red track plates (16 per belt)
#7 - 1041-24-08
Logic board wire harness
#8 - 1040-24-113
Male 12 pin connector
#9 - 1040-24-112
Female 12 pin connector
#10 -1041-24-12
Idler gear
#11 -1041-24-13
Gear Box
#12 - 1041-24-14
Gear Shaft
#13 - 1041-24-15
Gear #1 Plastic
#14 - 1041-24-16
Gear #2 & #3 Metal
#15 - 1041-24-17
Output gear
#16 - 1041-24-18
Gear #4 Thick Metal
#17 - 1040-24-22
Blanking Plate.
#18 - 1040-24-25
Fixing screw.
#19 - 1041-24-19
Cam Shaft.
1041-24-20
Cam shaft bearing.
#20 -1041-24-21
Cam Agitator.
#21 - 1041-24-22
Agitator.
#22 - 1040-24-291
Low level contact plate.
#23 - 1041-27-373
Mark IV PC logic board.

18
CABINET PARTS LIST
AC9020 - KEYPAD W/HARNESS
AC1061 - MAIN LOGIC BOARD
AC1041 - MK4 COIN HOPPER
AC1040.3 - HOPPER PLATE WITH HARNESS
AC5080 - SCREW-IN T-HANDLE (NO LOCK OR KEYS)
AC1093 - LOCK & KEYS
1093-01 - SPARE KEYS
AC2210 - CABINET COMPLETE, AC250
2050 - MANUAL FOR AC250
AC1088 - FULL FRONT STICKER FOR AC250
1010-01 - COIN CUP FOR AC250
AC2210.1 - DOOR FOR AC250