Anacortes Yacht Charters SCAPA Installation manual

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OPERATION MANUAL
POWER BOAT
SCAPA
Welcome aboard!
We are happy you have chosen SCAPA, which is a verb word for “to
escape” or “to seek refuge”, for your vacation. We are sure you will
enjoy escaping to the lovely islands of the Pacific Northwest onboard
SCAPA.
SCAPA is a fast trawler with a Pacific Seacraft pedigree. Pacific
Seacraft has built a solid reputation for rugged offshore performance,
classic design, and unmatched value in blue water sailboats. With the
introduction of the Pacific Seacraft 38T, these same timeless qualities
are available to the power cruising enthusiast.
We trust this manual will help you become familiar with SCAPA. If
you have questions about the boat or about places to visit, please do not
hesitate to ask the AYC staff.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Boat Operation Page
Engine Inspection 4
Start-Up 4
Shutdown 5
Getting Underway 5
Cruising 5
Docking 5
Fueling 6
Boat Electrical
A.C. (Shore) Systems 6
Inverter 7
Generator 7
D.C. (House) Systems 7
Batteries 8
Sanitation Systems 8
Marine Toilet 8
Holding Tank 9
Y-Valve 9
Water Systems 10
Fresh Water Tanks 10
Fresh Water Pump 10
Hot Water 10
Shower 10

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Galley 10
Stove/Oven 10
Refrigeration/ Ice Maker 11
Heating Systems 11
Diesel Heater (DC) 11
Built-in Cabin Heaters (AC) 11
Engine-generated Heat (DC) 11
Electronics 11
VHF Radio, Depth Sounder 11
Radar 12
GPS/Plotter 12
Entertainment 12
AM/FM Radio 12
CD Player 12
TV/Stereo 12
Anchoring/Mooring Cans 12
Barbecue 13
Dinghy/Outboard 13
Crabbing/Fishing 14
Other: Bilge Pumps/Safety 14
Thru-Hull Diagram 14

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BOAT OPERATION
Engine Inspection
Remember your “WOBBS” every morning: Water (Coolant), Oil, Bilges (Inspect and Pump-out), Belts
and Sea Strainer.
Check the level of COOLANT in the expansion tanks located on top, forward of the engines. Check the
level of OIL in each engine by checking your dipsticks, two on each engine. Look at the etch marks on
each dipstick that indicate the proper oil level. DO NOT OVERFILL OIL! Only fill if oil levels are
below the ½ way mark. Ask your fleet captain at checkout if you have any questions about the markings
on dipsticks. Please use a paper towel or oil rag, not the dish towels! Check the general condition of the
BELTS, HOSES, and FUEL LINES.
Ensure the valve on each RAW WATER THRU-HULL is in the ‘open’ position (lever in-line with
valve). Observe the glass of each RAW WATER STRAINER for debris. Shining a flashlight thru the
strainer often helps see debris. If necessary, close the seacock, open the strainer cover, clean the strainer,
and reassemble. Remember to reopen the seacock. Confirm water flow from exhaust(s) Check your
generator fluids as well.
Start-Up
Before starting the engines, do your inspection. The engines should be started from the lower helm
station.
Ensure GEARSHIFTS are in ‘neutral’, or the engines cannot be started because of the “neutral lockout”.
THROTTLES should be run up and down and then brought almost back to the idle position. Turn on
“Engine Start” breaker(s) on electrical panel. Insert both keys into the IGNITION SWITCHES or press
“START’ button to engage starter. Normally, plan to start the port engine first.
Turn the key clockwise partially until the ENGINE ALARM sounds and pre-heat the engine (if
applicable). Turn the key fully clockwise to engage the engine. If the starter does not engage when the
key is turned, move the gearshift lever slightly until you find neutral and try again while turning key.
If the engine cranks slowly or fails to turn over, check the condition of the battery on the ELECTRICAL
PANEL. If the battery is low, try the BATTERY PARALLEL SWITCH or turn main power switch to
BOTH. This switch is located port side at the bottom of steps into aft stateroom to connect the other
engine battery. Turn off after using.
In order for the engine gauges to read, both the keys at the lower helm and on the flybridge must be
turned to the “on” position.
Move the THROTTLE to raise the engine speed to 1000 rpm on the TACHOMETER. Warm the engine
for about 5 minutes before engaging transmission. Observe the readings of the gauges. The oil pressure
will register about 40 PSI when the engine is cold. The engine temperature should rise slowly.

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Note -- If oil pressure is low, shut down engine, and inspect engine compartment and look for possible
cause (for example, loss of oil.) Caution -- If an engine is overheating or there is lack of raw water
expelled in the engine exhaust, stop the engine immediately. Recheck the raw water-cooling system to
ensure the seacock is ‘open’ (handle in-line with valve). Next, check the raw water strainer for debris.
Remove the strainer, clean, re-assemble, and reopen the raw water intake valve (seacock). Restart the
engine and re-check water flow from the exhaust. If water is not flowing properly, the RAW WATER
PUMP may need to be serviced. Seek help.
Shut-Down
Before shutting down, allow the engines to ‘idle’ for about 5 minutes to cool them gradually and
uniformly. The time engaged in preparing to dock the boat is usually sufficient. Ensure each
GEARSHIFT is in the ‘neutral’ position and each THROTTLE is in the ‘idle’ position. Turn off engines
by engaging the red stop buttons.
Getting Underway
DISCONNECT the shore power cord (see 110-Volt next page). Close the PORTHOLES, WINDOWS,
and FORWARD HATCH. Turn on your VHF and electronics. ASSIGN crew members their various
positions. Once outside the marina, idle the engines while crew brings in fenders and lines. If your vessel
is equipped with a bow thruster, this is often helpful to hold the bow to the dock while the bowline is
removed.
Cruising
All close quarters maneuvering should always take place at the FLYBRIDGE HELM.
Engage the GEARSHIFTS. Ensure the throttles are in the ‘idle’ position before engaging the gearshifts to
avoid transmission damage. Cruising speed is a maximum of about 2800 RPMS. If you run at 1800
RPMS you will cruise at 8 to 10 knots and use only --- gallons of diesel per hour. Your speed will vary
depending upon the weight and load and weather conditions. TRIM TABS can be adjusted for comfort
and visibility by putting in the “bow down” position.
Note -- Avoid higher engine speeds as it causes higher engine temperature, possible damage, and higher
fuel consumption. In general, lower RPMs result in much improved fuel economy.
The synchronizers can be activated at either helm. Make sure the button is pulled out to sync the engines.
The starboard controls act as the master; the port controls are the slave. To desynchronize the engines,
push the button back in. If you have trouble desynchronizing the engines, pull the button out and push it
back in, repeatedly, with both engines at idle.
Docking
During docking, use the FLYBRIDGE HELM for greater visibility to the stern. Have your crew make
ready the lines and fenders and give clear instructions on how you will be docking. Often times your

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crew will need to step off from the swim step with the stern line. Another crew member will need to be at
the bow or mid-ships to hand over the next lines.
Prior to docking, rock TRIM TAB switches to the ‘bow up’ position (8 to 10 seconds) to make slow-
speed backing and turning easier. While moving slowly to the dock or mooring location, center the
WHEEL (e.g. rudders straight) and use only the GEARSHIFTS and THROTTLES to maneuver the boat.
THERE IS NO BOW OR STERN THRUSTER ON THIS VESSEL.
Fueling Up
OPEN FILLER CAPS with a DECK FITTING KEY that is kept in the bottom drawer next to port side
door. The FILLER CAPS are located on the step leading to the bow on both the port and starboard sides.
CAUTION –THE WASTE PUMPOUT CAP IS LOCATED NEAR THE STARBOARD FUEL
FILLER CAP!! MAKE DOUBLE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT FILLER CAP!!!!
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT FUEL! DIESEL! DIESEL! DIESEL! MAKE SURE IT
IS GOING INTO THE RIGHT DECK FILL! DOUBLE-CHECK!
Before pumping, have an oil/fuel sorbs handy to soak up spilled fuel. Locate fuel vents if possible to
listen for tank becoming full and to know where sorbs may be needed. You should have a rough idea of
the number of gallons you will need by the engine hour indicator. Also periodically have someone turn
on the key to watch the fuel gauge or station a person by tank site glasses to watch fueling progress.
Place the DIESEL nozzle into the tank opening, pump slowly and evenly, and note the sound of the fuel
flow. Pumping too fast may not allow enough time for air to escape, which may result in spouting from
the tank opening. As the tank fills, the sound will rise in pitch or gurgle. Pay attention to the TANK
OVERFLOW VENT on the outside of the hull near the tank opening. The sound may indicate that the
tank is nearly full. Top off carefully, and be prepared to catch spilled fuel. Spillage may result in a nasty
fine from law enforcement.
Replace each tank cap. Turn on blower before starting engines. Caution -- Clean up splatter and spillage
immediately for environmental and health reasons. Wash hands with soap and water thoroughly.
BOAT ELECTRICAL
The electrical system is divided into two distribution systems: 110-volt AC and 12-volt DC.
The systems are controlled from the AC ELECTRICAL PANEL and the DC AUXILIARY PANEL
which are located next to the stairway leading to the aft cabin, and the BATTERY SWITCHES located at
the bottom of the same stairs on the port side. When not connected to shore power, batteries are providing
all power. Therefore, monitor the use of battery levels carefully with your volt meter located just above
the electrical panels. How much electricity is being drawn from the batteries can be monitored on the
ampere meter in the same location. Turn off electrical devices that are not needed.
110-Volt AC System

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SHORE POWER supports all AC equipment and receptacles on board, as well as the battery chargers.
To connect to shore power, plug the 30amp POWER CORD into the boat and then into the dock
receptacle. Check the power rating/plug size of the nearest dock receptacle (that is 50 amp, 30 amp, 20
amp, or 15 amp). If necessary, add a CORD ADAPTER located under the small step in the V BERTH.
Turn the dock power on. Cords coming off the bow can be wrapped loosely around the bow cleats or
bow rail.
At the ELECTRICAL PANEL, flip the SHORE CIRCUIT BREAKER on. Check for reverse polarity.
Then turn on appropriate breakers for battery charger, refrigeration, water heater, inverter and outlets.
Watch your amp meter for load. If the load exceeds amperage, you will pop your breaker. If this occurs,
turn off some items (e.g. water heater) and wait to turn on one of your systems until your use of electricity
drops.
If your outlets fail to work, check your GFIs to make sure that they have not been tripped. Be aware that
one GFI breaker may supply plug-ins in several areas.
Inverter Power
The INVERTER provides AC power to the 110-volt receptacle plugs (i.e. the microwave oven) when the
boat is disconnected from shore power. The inverter does not provide power to the water heater or the
battery charger. Your inverter panel is located above the door to AFT CABIN with an on/off switch.
Make certain that it is on. The actual inverter is located aft in the engine room.
The inverter’s power source is the DC house or inverter batteries located in the aft cabin starboard quarter
panel behind ladder. The quantity of DC power is limited to the capacity of these batteries. Therefore,
running hair dryers, toaster, coffeepots, space heater, etc. and will quickly discharge the house/inverter
batteries. Use these items VERY SPARINGLY! Monitor your battery usage very carefully! If
anticipated power usage is heavy, start your generator or engines to keep batteries charged.
When connected to shore power, the inverter automatically becomes a battery charger for the 12-volt
HOUSE BATTERIES. Should you detect the inverter failing to charge the house batteries, check the
circuit breaker in the AC Panel and the inverter control panel. Also, there is usually a circuit breaker
located on top of the inverter box.
Generator
To start your GENERATOR, first check that your generator’s fluids are topped off and the raw water
intake is open. The generator controls are located in the panel above the aft cabin door.. First pre-heat
the generator for about 20 seconds. Then while still pre-heating turn the switch to start. Hold the switch
in that position while the generator catches (about 5-10 seconds). Make sure water and exhaust is exiting
out the port stern under the swim platform.
Prior to starting, make sure all individual AC breakers are turned off. After generator is running, turn
your AC distribution switch to generator (or ship). Then turn on AC systems as you would on shore
power one system at a time.
To turn the generator off, first take off the load by turning off AC breakers. Then turn off main AC
distribution switch. Lastly kill the generator by switching generator switch to “off” until it dies.

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House (12-volt) System
TWO battery banks support 12-volt DC power: 1) port engine battery 2) starboard engine battery
3) house battery bank 4) Inverter bank 5) Generator battery.
The 3 BATTERY SWITCHES are located port side as you enter the aft cabin at the bottom of the steps.
Normally, leave the ENGINE/ GENERATOR and HOUSE SWITCHES in the ‘ON’ position. Note --
Do not change the position of the switches while the engines are running or the alternator diodes will
be damaged. Change positions ONLY with the engines off.
Your 12 volt panel shows all the systems supported by your batteries. Primarily you will be turning on
the breakers for your lights, water pressure, electronics, heads, refrigerator etc. Bilge pumps should
always be left on. Both propane switches should always be turned off after every use. One is located on
the DC PANEL and another is located above the door to the aft cabin.
House Battery Bank & Switch
The HOUSE BATTERY BANK provides power for all DC systems, except the engines, generator and
automatic bilge pumps. When disconnected from shore power, all 12-volt devices drain the house
battery. Use devices as needed. The DC voltmeter on the DC panel can be switched between Port,
Starboard, and House Battery banks to measure charging or resting battery voltages.
When a battery bank is being charged, the voltage will read from about 13.1 volts to 14.4 volts depending
upon state-of-charge of the battery bank. When the battery bank is at rest, (that is, not being charged), the
voltmeter can give a rough indication of the state-of-charge of the battery bank.
All batteries are charged by the engine ALTERNATORS while underway. The engine/house batteries are
charged by the BATTERY CHARGER when connected to shore power. Ensure the Battery Charger and
Inverter circuit breakers at the electrical panel are ON. The GENERATOR will also charge the batteries.
Voltage (Wet Cell Battery)
Battery State
12.65 volts
100%
12.47 volts
75%
12.25 volts
50%
11.95 volts
25%
11.70 volts
0%
Battery Parallel Switch
Each ENGINE BATTERY is connected to its corresponding engine. However, should one engine battery
be insufficiently charged to start its engine, the other engine battery may be momentarily connected to
provide a boost. Press the BATTERY PARALLEL SWITCH is located port side as you enter the aft
cabin at the bottom of the steps. Turn off after the engines start up.

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SANITATION SYSTEM
Marine Toilet
It is important that every member of the crew be informed on the proper use of the MARINE TOILET.
The valves, openings, and pumps are small and may clog easily. If the toilet clogs, it is YOUR
RESONSIBILITY!
Caution –Never put paper towels, tampons, Kleenex, sanitary napkins, household toilet paper, or food
into the marine toilet. Use only the special dissolving marine toilet tissue provided by AYC.
Always pump the head for children, so you can make sure nothing foreign is being flushed.
For liquid waste, lift the pedal to wet the bowl. After using the toilet, press the pedal and hold for at least
3 seconds to clear the bowl and then release with a snap. For solid waste, lift the pedal to fill the bowl to
¾ full, then flush sufficiently to empty the bowl and then release with a snap. Flush long enough to move
effluent in the hoses; heavy effluent may clog hoses. Clean the toilet as necessary.
Holding Tank
The sanitation HOLDING TANK holds approximately 55 gallons. Be aware of the rate of waste
production. (about 1 gallon per flush) With an overfilled tank, it is possible to break a hose, clog a vent,
or burst the tank. The result will be indescribable catastrophe and an EXPENSIVE FIX to you. Empty
the tank EVERY OTHER DAY to avoid this problem. Flushing a few ounces of AYC provided
deodorizer will help eliminate odors.
The HOLDING TANK is on the starboard side, forward of the engine. Some may be subject to a visual
check with a flashlight or the “watermelon” test by thumping it. There is a tank watch warning light
located in the aft cabin head but do not rely upon this only as they often get clogged. Paying attention to
the general number of flushes is best.
The holding tank is emptied in one of two ways:
#1 At the Marine Pump-Out Station, remove the WASTE CAP located starboard, above the step to the
bow. Insert the pump-out nozzle into the waste opening. Hold nozzle firmly against the deck fitting to
ensure a tight seal. Turn on pump and open valve located on handle. When pumping is finished, close
lever on handle and turn off pump. Remove from deck fitting.
****If there is a fresh water hose on the dock, rinse the tank by adding 2 minutes of water into tank.
Then re-pump to leave the tank rinsed for the next charter. This also eliminates head odors.
#2 The tank’s contents can be discharged with the MACERATOR only in Canadian waters.
Macerator Discharge Valve

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Before operation of the macerator, open the ball valve down stream of the pump. Valves are
usually wire-tied to the holding tank position in respect to Coast Guard regulations. Please leave it “as
is” unless there is an emergency. Be familiar with the applicable laws concerning dumping sewage
directly overboard.
To operate the macerator, switch the MACERATOR ROCKER SWITCH to the on position. Listen to the
macerator’s sound. When the pitch becomes higher, the tank is empty. Discharge may be observed on
the starboard side. It should only take a few minutes to empty the tank
WATER SYSTEM
Fresh Water Tank(s)
The FRESH WATER TANK holds 240 gallons. Observe the water level by the gauge above the aft cabin
door. Waste water from the sinks and showers drains overboard through various thru-hulls usually
located under the sinks.
To refill the tank, remove the WATER CAP located on the aft port quarter deck. Avoid flushing debris
from the deck into the tank opening. DO NOT fill water and diesel at the same time!
Fresh Water Pressure Pump
The WATER PRESSURE PUMP is located in the engine room, starboard forward of the engine.
Activate pump at the DC panel by turning on the breaker. If the water pump continues to run, you are
either out of water or might have an air lock and need to bleed the system by opening up a faucet. If you
run out of water SHUT OFF YOUR HOT WATER HEATER on the AC panel. Serious damage can
occur!
Hot Water Tank
The HOT WATER HEATER has an 12 gallon capacity tank and is available when connected to shore
power or via a heat exchanger underway. To use on shore power, flip on the water heater circuit breaker
on the AC electrical panel. Do not use the water heater if the water tank level is very low. The water
heater is located in the stern lazerette.
Shower
Before taking a SHOWER, make sure water pressure and shower sump breakers are on. Take only very
short “boat” showers (turning off water between soaping up and rinsing). To keep shower tidy wipe down
the shower stall and floor with the squeegee provided.. Check for accumulation of hair in the shower and
sink drains. An additional FRESH WATER SHOWER is located in the transom. Ensure that the faucets
and nozzle are completely off after use.

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A pressured RAW WATER WASHDOWN is available from a hose spigot in the stern and the bow. To
activate, flip the PUMP ROCKER SWITCH located in the DC PANEL. After use, turn the switch off to
prevent pump burn out, and ensure no object leans on the switch to turn it on accidentally.
GALLEY
Stove/oven
The stove and oven are propane. Turn on the “stove” breaker on the AC panel.
Your propane stove is activated by the following steps:
#1 Turn on the propane tank located in the starboard settee on the bridge.
#2 Turn on the DC breaker labeled “LP Gas” and the solenoid switch located above the aft cabin door.
#3 Turn on the gas at the stove (Press in knob) and light burner with a lighter. You might need to hold
knob in for a few seconds while the thermo coupler warms up. The same applies to lighting the oven.
When finished cooking turn off the switches and the bottle.
Refrigerator
The REFRIGERATOR is dual voltage (12-volt and 110-volt power). It will automatically use 110-volt
power when the shore power is connected; otherwise, it will operate on 12-volt power. Monitor the use of
the refrigerator when the engines are not charging the 12-volt battery system. The local power switch is
located above front door. It can be turned down to the lowest position when anchored or moored or
turned off when turning in for the night. Minimizing openings helps a lot!
HEATING SYSTEM
Diesel Heater (DC)
The DIESEL FORCED-AIR FURNACE provides heat in the same way as a household furnace. Set the
THERMOSTAT, located below the electrical panel, to the desired temperature.
Check The furnace EXHAUST PORT located port side midship for any obstruction such as fenders or
lines. Do not block this opening when operating the furnace. Heat will damage fiberglass or rubber.
Once it is on, allow it to run for at least 15 minutes before turning it off. Turn ‘off’ the furnace heater by
turning THERMOSTAT back off.
ELECTRONICS
All electronic manuals are located beneath the starboard settee in the main cabin.
VHF Radio
There are 2 VHF RADIOS. The first is located in the main cabin above the helm. Make sure the VHF
breaker is on located at the DC panel. There is a second, satellite VHF RADIO for use on the bridge,
located in the bottom drawer in the main cabin. Plug the cord into to outlet in the upper helm. Always
monitor channel 16 while underway.

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Depth Sounder
There are 2 DEPTH SOUNDER SCREENS, one in the main cabin above the helm and the other on the
upper helm. To activate the DEPTH SOUNDER, turn on breaker labeled “INSTRUMENTS” in the
electrical panel. Set the scale, shallow alarm, and deep alarm as desired. The sounder should provide
reliable readings in shallow waters. If in doubt, switch it off, then turn it back on to reset sounder. If your
reading is blinking, it is a FALSE reading. False readings can occur in depths of more then 200 feet or in
areas of strong currents or tides.
Remember to ALWAYS consult your charts for depth!
Radar
To operate the RADAR, first turn on the breaker switch located in the panel above the companionway
door to the aft cabin. Follow onscreen instructions. Remember you are not allowed to travel in FOG or in
serious wind conditions..
Global Positioning System (GPS)
The RAYMARINE GPS is on the upper helm and is activated by switching on the NAV breaker located
above the companionway door. Refer to the RAYMARINE manual normally found beneath the salon port
settee.
Note -- GPS is considered a navigation aid. Do not rely on it. Compasses, charts, and dividers are the
tools to plot position, course, and speed.
ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS
XM Stereo Radio
The unit is located above the galley cabinet, starboard side. It operates like a normal car XM radio. There are two
speakers (stereo) in the salon and two (stereo) on the bridge. The FADER controls the distribution of the salon
and bridge speakers. The BALANCE controls the sound distribution in the left and right speakers.
CD Changer
This vessel does not have a CD Changer.
TV/VCR
This vessel does not have a TV or VCR.
ANCHORING
The primary WORKING ANCHOR is a 45lbs CQR and is attached to 300ft chain passed through the
deck from the ANCHOR LOCKER. The locker can be accessed through the forward cabin. If there is an
anchor keeper, release it.
The WINDLASS POWER SWITCH is located in the panel above the companionway door to the aft
cabin. At the bow, tap gently on the ‘down’ foot control to provide a small amount of slack in the chain.

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Tip the anchor just over center and gently begin lowering the anchor. If necessary, guide the anchor over
the anchor roller to prevent binding on the pulpit. Be careful of pinch points.
Let out sufficient ANCHOR RODE (chain) before setting the anchor. Colored markers are placed every -
25 feet on the chain and indicated amount of rode. If the anchorage is crowded put down at least a 3 to 1
scope (60 feet for 20 feet of water), back the anchor in with a short burst from the engine. Then let out
additional scope dependent upon conditions. Install anchor chain bridle (in the starboard bow locker)
from bow cleats to chain, slack a loop in the windlass side of the chain.
Before raising the anchor, ALWAYS start the engines as the windlass uses large amounts of power. Turn
‘on’ the WINDLASS SWITCH and take up slack to remove pressure on chain bridle. Remove the bridle
from the chain. As the boat moves toward the anchor, press the ‘up’ control to take up slack line. Give
the windlass short rests as you are pulling it up. If necessary, idle the boat forward with the engines by
placing briefly in gear to put slack in chain. Place yourself in position to guide the anchor onto the roller.
As the anchor rises, be careful not to allow it to swing against the hull. Wash it down as it comes up into
the boat with the wash down pump, located in the port bow locker, before it goes into anchor locker.
Turn ‘off’ the WINDLASS POWER SWITCH.
A SPARE 25 pound DANFORTH ANCHOR is normally stowed in the stern lazzarette. The 100ft
SPARE ANCHOR RODE is located in with the spare anchor. Attach the rode securely to the chain
shackle.
Mooring Cans
The State Park Sticker on your vessel allows you to pick up the MOORING CANS in the parks for free.
You only need to register at the kiosk usually located at the heads of the docks. Mooring cans have a
metal triangle at the top upon which is a metal ring. The metal ring is attached to the chain which secures
your boat. IT IS VERY HEAVY. The strongest member of your crew should be picked for this job.
Come up to the CAN into the wind or current as you would for anchoring. Have crew members on the
bow, one with a boat hook and one with a mooring line secured like a bow line. As you are coming
slowly up to the can have the crew holding the boat hook point at the can with the hook so the skipper
always knows where it is. Hook the can and bring the ring up to the boat to allow the second crew to
thread the ring with the line. Release the hold with the boat hook. If your mooring line is led out the
starboard chock bring the end of the line back through the port chock. You will essentially create a bridle
with about 10 feet of slack from the chalk to the can.
BARBECUE
The BARBECUE and MOUNTING BRACKET are mounted on the aft bridge railing.
Attach the PROPANE LINE and REGULATOR found in the propane locker located in the settee next to
the BBQ. Carefully light the unit, preferably with a long-stem butane lighter. The barbecue generates a
lot of heat and cooks hot and fast. Please clean the BBQ after use and leave it mounted to the railing.

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Note: Propane bottles are provided by AYC. If you anticipate needing an additional bottle, please ask
AYC staff. Caution -- For safety reasons, do not store an opened propane bottle within the salon or
engine compartment. Chances are these will leak slightly once opened and propane gas could settle into
low spaces. Store in propane locker on the bridge. Ensure gasoline and flammable materials are not
near the barbecue.
DINGHY & OUTBOARD MOTOR
Your YACHTSMAN DINGHY with a 9.9hp Yamaha engine is stored on the aft deck. It has a capacity
for 4 people.
To deploy the dinghy, clip the carabineer on the DINGHY ROPE from the boom to the ring attached to
the three dinghy deck lines. Holding the dinghy and the boom lines, use the boom winch to raise the
dinghy off the chocks and above the starboard railing. Use the boom lines to maneuver the dingy to the
starboard side and once cleared of the railing, use the winch to lower the dinghy into the water. Reverse
procedure to remove the dinghy from the water. Be sure to guide the dinghy carefully back into the
chocks and especially keep the propeller from damaging the gel coat as it is lowered into place.
When towing your dinghy, always keep it tight to the boat any time that you slow down or stop, Assign
one of your crew members as the “dinghy” person to be responsible for taking up slack. You don’t want
to wrap a propeller. Towing a dingy for long periods or in exposed (and potentially rough) water is
STRONGLY DISCOURAGED.
Coast Guard regulations state that any child 14 and under must wear a life jacket in a dinghy. It is a good
idea for EVERYONE to follow this rule.
CRABBING & FISHING
Always check the fishing and crabbing requirements before you leave on your cruise. You will need a
license. Many areas are CLOSED to crabbing and fishing on certain months.
CRAB AWAY FROM THE BOAT! Lines can get wrapped around props. Fish-flavored cat food or
with the pop-up ringed lids or frozen chicken backs work the best for a nice neat way to bait the ring.
After 15-20 minutes, retrieve the crab line and ring quickly. Be certain of water depth before lowering
crab rings or pots; make certain the buoy line is long enough for the depth. Measure the crabs using the
CRAB MEASURING GAUGE normally located in the lowest drawer in the main salon on the port side.
Keep the male crabs of proper size (usually 6 ¼ inches across the carapace). Boil crabs about 12 minutes
to cook.
After using, wash equipment thoroughly with fresh water (available from the cockpit shower faucet).
Note -- Please do not store wet rings and gear inside the boat.
OTHER: Safety & Bilge Pumps
SAFETY should be paramount in your daily cruising. A MAN OVERBOARD DRILL should be
discussed and perhaps even practiced with a life jacket. Remember you lifejackets are stowed under the
upper bridge cowling. Additional lifejackets are located in the forward hanging locker and under the V-
berth. A few should always be out and ready. Your flares are located in the starboard salon settee.

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SCAOA is equipped with three AUTOMATIC BILGE PUMPS. The master switch is located on the
electrical panel. Normally, the switch will be left in the AUTO position. You may occasionally hear the
pumps operate due to condensation and water from the shaft log accumulating in the bilge.
The ENGINE SPARES BOX is stowed in the stern lazzerette or in the engine room. This includes oil
filter, raw water impeller, pump parts, injectors, and other small parts.
Two SPARE PROPELLERS are found in the forward v-berth.
THRU-HULLS are located in the engine room.