ANK Legend Monoblock 300B-2A3 Instructions for use
Legend Monoblock 300B–2A3
Parallel SET Amplifier
Construction Manual
Version 3.04, October 2019
1-613-822-7188
Copyright © 2019 ANK Audio Kits
www.AudioNoteKits.com
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Table of Contents
Section 1 —Introduction ……………………………………………..………………………….…………………… 5
1.1 About ANK Audio Kits ……………………………………………..…………………………..…………………… 6
1.2 Basic Operation of the Amplifier………………………………….……………………….………..…………… 7
1.3 Schematic ……………………………..…………………………………………………….….…………………… 9
1.4 Equipment ……………………………..……………………………………………………..……………………… 10
1.4.1 Overview of the Kit ………………………………………………………..….……….…………… 10
1.5 Tips and Suggestions …………………………………………………….………….…..………………………… 10
1.5.1 Soldering …………………………………………………….……….….…….……………………… 10
1.5.2 Components ……………………….…………………………….………….…….……………………… 11
1.5.3 Resistor Sizes ……………………………………………….……….……….………….………………… 11
1.5.4 Capacitor Manufacturers and Voltage Ratings …………….…………………………… 11
1.5.5 Electrolytic Capacitors ……………………………………………………….………………………… 11
1.5.6 Diodes ………………………………………….……………………………..………….……………………… 12
1.5.7 Hardware/Mechanical …………………………………………………………….…………………… 12
1.5.8 Wire Stripping and Tinning ……………………………………………….…………………… 12
1.5.9 Wire Color ……………………………………………………..……………….…….………………… 13
1.5.10 Optional Finishing Touches …………………………..………….…….……………………… 13
1.6 Build Process ………………………………………………………………………………..………………..………… 14
1.6.1 Some Good Rules of Thumb for Building Your Amplifier …………………….……… 14
1.6.2 Organization of this Manual …………………………………………………….…..…….…… 14
1.6.3 Electrical Safety Warning …………………………………….………….………..………… 16
Section 2 —Mechanical Assembly ...............................................................................…17
2.1 Overview ……………………………………………………………………………….…..…..………..…….…… 17
2.2 Installing the Rubber Grommets……………………………………………………….…….………..…….…… 18
2.3 Installing the Valve Base …………………………………………………….….……………..…….…… 19
2.4 Installing the Tang Strips ………………………………………………….…….……………..…….…… 21
2.5 Installing the Capacitor Clamp ………………………………………………….….………………..…….…… 23
2.6 Installing the Ceramic Hardwiring Posts …………………………..………………..…….…… 25
2.7 Installing the Filament Supply Board Hardware ….………………………………….…… 27
2.8 Installing the Choke ……………….................................…………....................................…………… 29
2.9 Installing the IEC and Rocker Switch ….................…………....................................…………… 30
Section 3 —The Transformers .................................................................................…32
3.1 Overview ………………………………………………………………………………...…..….………..…….…… 32
3.2 Installing the Mains Transformer ………………………………………….…..….………..…….…… 33
3.3 Installing the Output Transformer ……………………………………..….………………..…….…… 38
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Section 4 —The Power Supply .................................................................................…40
4.1 Overview ………………………………………………………………………….………..…...………..…….…… 40
4.2 Installing the Chassis-Mounted Capacitor ……………………….……...…...………..…….…… 42
4.3 Preparing the Chassis Ground …………………………………………………….…..…...………..…….…… 43
4.4 Wiring the IEC, Rocker Switch, and Mains Transformer ……..…………....….………..…….…… 45
4.5 Installing the Resistors ……………………………………………….………………….......….………..…….…… 47
4.6 Wiring the Chassis-Mounted Capacitor ……………………………….………........…………..…….…… 54
4.7 Connecting the Choke ………………………………………………………….……….………………..…….…… 56
4.8 Initial Mains Secondary Wiring ……………………………………………………..………………..…….…… 57
4.9 Power Supply to Front Insert Plate Wiring …………………....….....………………..…….…… 59
4.10 Connecting the Output Transformer ……………………………….…....….………………..…….…… 60
4.11 Wiring the Rectifier Filaments ……………………..…………………….………..………………..…….…… 61
Section 5 —The Filament Supply Board ....................................................................…63
5.1 Overview ………………………………………….………………………………………..…..………..…….…… 63
5.2 Parts List ………………………………………….………………………………………..…..………..…….…… 65
5.3 Installing the Resistors …………………………….………………………………………..…..………..…….…… 66
5.4 Installing the Capacitors ……………….…………………………………………….………..…….…… 67
5.5 Installing the Bridge Rectifiers ……………….………………………………………...….………..…….…… 67
5.6 Installing the Regulators ……………….………………………………………...….………..…….…… 68
5.7 Connecting the Filament Supply Board ….………………………………………...….………..…….…… 70
Section 6 —The Front Insert Plate ...................................................................… 73
6.1 Overview ………………………………………………………………………….………..….……………….…… 73
6.2 Installing the Valve Bases and the Tag Strip …………………….…………………………….…… 74
6.3 Installing the Jumper Wires ………................................…………….…………………………….…… 76
6.4 Installing the Resistors …………………………………………………………….….……..….………..…….…… 78
6.5 Installing the Capacitors ……………………………………….………….……..….………..…….…… 82
6.6 Additional Front Panel Insert Wiring …………………………….……………..….………..….….…… 84
Section 7 —The IO Connections ................................................................................…86
7.1 Overview ……………………………………………………………..……………………..….………..…….…… 86
7.2 Installing the RCA Input Jack …………………………………..……................…..….………..…….…… 86
7.3 Wiring the RCA Input Jack …………………………………..……................…..….………..…….…… 87
7.4 Mounting the Front Insert Plate ……………………........................……………………………..…….…… 89
7.5 Installing the Speaker Posts ……………………........................……………………………..…….…… 90
7.6 Wiring the Speaker Posts ……………………........................……………………………..…….…… 91
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Section 8 —Wiring Check Lists …………………………………............................................. 92
Section 9 —Testing …………………………..............………………………………………....………….. 95
9.1 Overview ......................................................................................................................................... 95
9.2 Installing the Fuse ......................................................................................................................... 96
9.3 Initial Tests ......................................................................................................................................... 96
9.4 First Power-Up ......................................................................................................................................... 100
9.5 Voltage Tests ......................................................................................................................................... 102
9.6 Sound Check ......................................................................................................................................... 106
9.7 Debugging ......................................................................................................................................... 106
Section 10 —Finishing Touches ……………………..………..…………….…………………….…....………… 107
10.1 Installing the Front Faceplate ………..………………….……..…………..……………………….…………… 107
10.2 Installing the LED ……………………..….………………………..………..……………………...….………… 107
10.3 Installing the Chassis Top ………..….…………………………...........………………………....………… 107
Section 11 —Final Thoughts ……………………..……………………….…………………….…...………… 108
11.1 Congratulations ……………………………………………………………..…………………………………… 108
11.2 Break-in ……………………..…………….…………….…………………………………………….…...………… 109
11.3 Cables …………………………………..…………….…………….…………………………………………….…...………… 109
11.4 Tube Rolling ……………………..…………….…………….…………………………………………….…...………… 110
11.4.1 5U4-G ………..………………………….……..……….……………………..……………………...…………… 110
11.4.2 6SH7 ……………………..…………….……..……….……………………..……………………...…………… 110
11.4.3 300B and 2A3 ……………………..……………………………………………………….…….…………… 110
11.5 Thanks ……………………..…………………………………………………..……………….………….………………….… 111
Appendix ……………………………………………..……………………………………………………...……….……….…… 112
Resistor Color Code Reference …………….……………………………………………………….…..…….…… 113
Mains Wiring for 240V ……………………….…………………………………………….…..………………….…… 114
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Section 1
Introduction
Thanks for purchasing the ANK Audio Kits Legend Monoblock 300B-2A3 Parallel SET Amplifier. Our
goal is to provide you with the highest quality kit that you will build from scratch with these
instructions.
This is very high end and sophisticated piece of audio equipment that will surely become a showpiece
of your sound system. We're excited that you have chosen to join us in enjoying and appreciating
superb audio and we've created this manual to help guide you through each step of the assembly
process with as much detail and clarity as possible. To facilitate the build process, the manual has
been divided into a number of sections, each focusing on a separate aspect of the system: follow the
sections in order and we guarantee you not only a problem-free experience, but a pleasant time
doing so. If you are new to building kits, or if at any time you feel as though you need help or advice,
feel free to contact us and we will do whatever it takes to get you on the right track.
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1.1 About ANK Audio Kits
Audio Note (UK) started out in the early '90s developing several DIY audio kits while they were
building up their finished product business. DIY Audio has a long history and it was an opportunity
for knowledgeable customers to take advantage of world class designs and components. Audio Note
(UK) was focused on using the very finest materials and components custom-made to their
specifications, across their entire product line —from custom film and electrolytic capacitors to
tantalum resistors, transformers, binding posts, wires, etc. The Kit1 300B single-ended integrated
amplifier was born during development of the Meishu and it proved to be extremely popular
worldwide. The ANKit business was born!
As the finished product business and dealer network started to flourish, Audio Note (UK) eventually
moved the kit business off into a separate division; thus, in 2004, Audio Note Kits started up and was
supported by a website so that customers not located near Audio Note (UK) dealers could order kits
and have them shipped direct. Kit development continued in earnest during the 2000s with
development assisted by Audio Note (UK) engineering. Audio Note (UK) parts were used throughout
the kits, depending on the various levels and budgets. By 2013, ANK Audio Kits (as it came to be
called) had developed a wide product range covering all areas of two channel audio: a single-ended
300B product line, an EL34 Class AB and single-ended product line, digital to analog converters, pre-
amplifiers, phono stages, and Audio Note (UK) speaker kits. The end result today is that customers
worldwide with DIY skills can now build an entire high end audio system to their liking. With the
introduction of higher product levels in 2013 and the release of the Level 5 Mentor Pre-amplifier and
the DAC 5.1 Signature, some customers wanted these high end products assembled by a professional
builder. As a result, ANK Audio Kits began offering this service for some Level 4 and 5 products so
that a significant investment in a kit could be turned into a work of art! Since ANK Audio Kits was
born in 2004, over 2,500 kits have been shipped to customers worldwide. Clearly, there is a real
demand for high end audio kits and ANK Audio Kits has been delivering the goods now for 15 years.
We believe and hope that you will have a great experience building your kit and we look forward to
hearing from you about your experience.
Regards,
Brian Smith —Director ANK Audio Kits
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1.2 Basic Operation of the Amplifier
ANK Audio Kits is proud to present the Legend Monoblock 300B-2A3 Parallel SET Amplifier. As
anyone who has ever heard the transcendent musicality of a single-ended amplifier will tell you,
there is something very special about the music that flows from (relatively) simple, classic Class A
triode circuits. Perhaps it's the absence of crossover distortion, perhaps it's the gorgeous midband
reproduction, perhaps it's the zero feedback design, perhaps it's the organic (even desirable)
expressiveness of the second harmonic; more likely it's all of this and more.
ANK Audio Kits and SET amplifiers go a long way back, right to the beginning in fact, with our Kit1
300B, which has had successive and successful anniversary editions. It's no surprise then that these
300B Single and Parallel SET monoblocks are simply awesome! A pair of these power amplifiers are a
perfect mate for the Mentor pre-amplifier and a path to truly exceptional audio enjoyment.
Design Elements
The Legend Monoblock 300B-2A3 Parallel Amplifier is a true high-end amplifier, a beautiful
expression of single-ended amplification, reserved for the discerning audiophile.
The Legend series monoblock single-ended amplifiers employ a 6SH7 driver tube —selected by Andy
Grove for reasons related to the input impedance and sensitivity in mating with a pre-amplifier —
wired in a pentode configuration to drive a Parallel or Single triode 300B or 2A3 tube. It's the
ultimate in configurability for anyone serious about SET amplification and is a class amplifier —a
Legend in its own right! With 2 special Mains transformers, the T-194 and T-195, the following 4
options are available:
Option 1 Single 2A3 amplification, 3.5W single-ended
Option 2 Parallel 2A3 amplification, 7W single-ended
Option 3 Single 300B amplification, 8.5W single-ended
Option 4 Parallel 300B amplification, 18-20W single-ended
The Legend amplifiers deliver that gorgeous zero feedback single-ended triode sound. Simplicity is
the key to the circuit of the amplifiers which are targeted at higher efficiency speakers. They
provide remarkable sound quality to rival the best of SET amplifiers, yet they do this at a real world
price. A remarkable achievement!
They are a pure power amplifier with approximately 2V sensitivity and are ideal when mated with
our L2 or L3 pre-amplifiers. Among its high-end features are a classic 5U4-G rectifier tube, which
smoothes the AC for the Power Supply; DC filaments; a large 300ma Power Supply Choke installed
inside the chassis —assuring dead quiet operation; high quality black Teflon 4- and 8-pin valve
bases; and Audio Note (UK) hardwire tag strips.
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Here’s a pair of completed Legend Monoblock 300B-2A3 SET Amplifiers
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1.3 Schematic1
1From time to time revisions and upgrades to products result in circuit changes that are not always reflected
in manuals. If you encounter any issues with how this schematic relates to your build that need clarifying,
contact us at audionotekits@rogers.com.
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1.4 Equipment
Here is the list of equipment that will be required:
Philips screwdriver
A pair of quality wire strippers
A large, organized work area
Soldering iron station with wet sponge
Lead-based solder (4% Silver is recommended)
1.4.1 Overview of the Kit
In your kit you will find a series of kit bags containing all the hardware, wire, and parts for the
associated sections of the amplifier. See the Parts List files on the disk to match up the parts in the
kit bags with the lists. There is also a Master list for the kit.
1.5 Tips and Suggestions
We have learned a lot about kit building over the last decade from our customers and I'd like to share
some tips with you to ensure a successful project. Please read through this section thoroughly, it will
give you a good idea of what's ahead and help ensure your success!
1.5.1 Soldering
We highly recommend using lead-based solder with some silver content2on the build. You should use
lead-free ONLY if you are experienced using it and confident. Lead-free solder requires a higher
melting temperature and thus is more difficult to use. We don’t recommend lead-free solder for first-
time builders.
We suggest that you practice your soldering before starting on the kit. Feel free to request practice
parts with your kit so that you can practice tinning wires and making nice solder joints. The key is a
good soldering station with a sponge, the right temperature, a good size tip, and experience;
remember, tips can wear out so make sure your tip is working. (You can also check out YouTube
videos for soldering lessons and examples.) The solder should flow freely; if it’s forming balls then
there is likely a problem with the tip, the temperature, or (sometimes) the surface. Feel free to
contact us for help!
2For example, WBT-0800.
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1.5.2 Components
Using the Ohm setting on your multimeter is very useful when building a kit. It's a good, practical
way of measuring resistors and continuity and is much easier than reading the color codes on the
side. (With practice, the color codes can also be a good way to determine the resistance, but that
method is better left to experienced builders.)
1.5.3 Resistor Sizes
Resistors today, particularly metal film resistors, are often smaller than you might expect. It used to
be that the difference between a 1/2W and a 1W resistor was obvious: the 1W was considerably
larger. That way of looking at things sometimes now no longer applies. Please be assured that all
resistors supplied with ANK Audio Kits are rated at least per the specified wattage: in some cases, a
higher than specified wattage may be supplied.
1.5.4 Capacitor Manufacturers and Voltage Ratings
Occasionally, depending on parts availability, we may use capacitors from different manufacturers.
These will always be of equal or higher quality! As a result, some of the pictures in the manual may
look a bit different at times. With regard to voltage ratings, normally, the voltage rating of the
supplied capacitors will be exactly what you see on the parts lists. Occasionally, a part may be
supplied with a higher voltage. Think nothing of it!
1.5.5 Electrolytic Capacitors
For those who have not built a piece of electronics before, here is a little lesson on capacitors. There
are basically two types of capacitors that we use in the kits: electrolytic and signal capacitors. Of
these, electrolytic capacitors require special attention. Electrolytic capacitors are “polarized,” which
means they have a POSITIVE (+) and a NEGATIVE (–) lead and typically have values like 100uf 450V,
10uf 160V, or 470uf 35V.
These capacitors need to be installed correctly or else they will possibly
blow up at some point!
Each electrolytic capacitor will have a
wide stripe
on the NEGATIVE side. Always ensure that this
stripe (NEGATIVE) is positioned correctly. There are several keys on a printed circuit board to help
you to know how to position the capacitor:
1. There may be a "+" on the board indicating where to position the POSITIVE lead.
2. The segmented half of the circular stencil on the board shows where to position the NEGATIVE
lead. The unsegmented ('half-moon') part of the circle is where the POSITIVE lead goes.
3. The POSITIVE lead goes to a square solder pad while the NEGATIVE lead goes to a round solder
pad.
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1.5.6 Diodes
When installing diodes note that they are oriented with a stripe —
match the stripe on the diode with
the banding (||) stencil on the board.
1.5.7 Hardware/Mechanical
Not all of us are mechanically oriented. So, the kit is well laid out such that all the hardware is
provided and bagged in individual sections, so things should make sense. Start thinking
mechanically because about a third of the kit is mechanical. The first thing to remember is that good
hardware is beautiful: we use all stainless steel metric hardware in the kits. It truly is a thing of
beauty: don’t rush your hardware! Here are a few helpful things to understand:
We use British metric hardware (M3, M4, M5, screw size 10mm, 15mm, etc..) as opposed to the
American imperial system (5/1000th or 50/1000th, 1 inch, 3/4 inch). Please familiarize
yourself with the hardware in the kit.
The screws will be called M3 or M4, which is the diameter of the shaft. The length of the shaft
will be in millimeters, so you will encounter things like an M4 screw 16mm, a PAN head screw
(which is a round spherical head), or a COUNTERSUNK or FLAT head screw (a screw head that
needs to be flush with a surface —for example, under a transformer). So if you are asked to
use an M3 16mm CSK screw, this is an M3 size (obviously), which is a thinner shaft diameter
than an M4; 16mm is the length of the shaft; and the head type is CSK, which is a countersunk
or flat head screw.
Once you have the screws mastered, look at the matching nuts such as M4 nut or M3 nut and
corresponding washers.
Standoffs are common in the kits (again, they are either M3 or M4 size, with different
lengths). They are typically threaded, so the screw goes into them.
If any of the hardware is confusing or something is not fitting right, please email us.
1.5.8 Wire Stripping and Tinning
When it comes to wires, we typically use 18 gauge (thicker) and 22 gauge in the kits. It's PTFE: Teflon
silver-plated copper wire. Basically this is classed as hook-up wire; we typically twist wire for you
when it needs to be. The other wire we use is called shielded cable, like an AN-A (Audio Note (UK)) for
signals. This is two-conductor wire: one is for the signal and the other (a big ground braid wrapped
around the signal wire) is the shielding, which helps prevent the cable from picking up noise. You
should practice stripping some 18g or 22g wire, and then try tinning this wire; this is the process of
adding solder to the bare wire so that the invisible coating on the wire is burned off. This makes for
easy soldering to a PCB, an RCA connector, or a transformer terminal. So it's a good idea to practice
this a little before starting the kit.
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1.5.9 Wire Color
In the earlier sections of this manual, particularly those sections dealing with the Mains transformer
and Choke wires, the colors of the wires should match the color of the wires in your kit. If they don't,
or if you're unsure about things, contact audionotekits@rogers.com. Later on, at the Interwiring
stage, there may be some differences between the descriptions (or pictures) of the color of wires that
you will connect and the color of the wires supplied with your kit; for example, depending on
inventory, we may supply a Black–Red twisted pair instead of a Green–Red (or vice-versa). Don't
worry! Just be sure to check the wiring diagrams carefully and connect the correct points together
and all will be well!
1.5.10 Optional Finishing Touches
From time to time we get asked about some of the build details of the ANK Finished Products that you
can see in the pictures in the "Assembled Kits Gallery!" (https://ankits.smugmug.com/) on our
website. It's important to understand that these stunningly beautiful products were done by an
accomplished professional builder with decades of experience and that some particulars of the build
may be beyond most of us. However, experienced builders who want to incorporate some of these
finishing touches should feel free to do so. While we don't officially support or supply parts for these
optional enhancements, there's no reason why you couldn't or shouldn't do them if you want to and
feel that you can handle them. Without getting into the details (you're on your own here), what you'll
want to get hold of are: heatshrink (to bundle wires), cable ties (to secure large capacitors), stacked
(male/female) standoffs and cable clamps (to elevate and secure signal cables), and cable sleeving.
You can get some of these from your local hardware store (for example, 1/4" Cable Clamps) and
other, more specialized, parts from online distributors such as Grainger, Digi-Key, Mouser, or Cable
Ties and More. If you do decide to dress your build with some of these, please send us a picture or
two. We'd love to see what you did!
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1.6 Build Process
1.6.1 Some Good Rules of Thumb for Building Your Amplifier
Take your time, prepare, and try and work on a small task each time you start to build the kit.
Instead of rushing through another section —use the end of your session to check your work.
Always ask yourself if the step you are performing makes sense.
Have fun with your build and savour the experience. Take the time to do a really good job!
Feel free to contact us via email audionotekits@rogers.com if you have any questions or
suggestions during your build —and feel free to send us pictures, etc. We'd be pleased to give
you tips along the way.
1.6.2 Organization of this Manual
Building an amplifier takes time and requires attention to detail and concentration. It's not
something that you should rush: take the time, be patient, and give yourself a break when necessary.
To help guide you through the process, we've divided the work into a number of discrete tasks, each
with its own section in the manual. The big picture is simple: we'll begin with the mechanical
assembly and then progress to the wiring. We provide easy to follow, step-by-step assembly and
wiring instructions and we prepare the parts you'll need in 15 separate sections, with all IEC cabling
and twisted wire prepared for you ahead of time, making it easy to work through each build stage.
The result: we hope that your kit is a joy to build!
We've divided the build and the manual into the following sections:
1. Introduction
2. Mechanical Assembly
3. The Transformers
4. The Power Supply
5. The Filament Supply Board
6. Front Insert Plate
7. The IO Connections
8. Wiring Check Lists
9. Testing
10. Finishing Touches
11. Final Thoughts
Appendix
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Here's another way of looking at how the manual is organized and how the sections fit into the 'big
picture': the main sections are mapped so that they mirror how the components will be positioned in
the amplifier chassis, top and bottom, as shown below:
Top Side
Bottom Side
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The bottom-side view is used throughout the manual for the point-to-point wiring.
For the most part,
each graphic slide shows only the wiring to be done in that sub-section and —not to have
information overload —may not show wiring previously completed.
The overlaid routing of all the
point-to-point wiring underscores why it's a good to go slowly, think carefully about wire length and
routing, and use like heatshrink and cable ties to keep things neat and tidy, as in the picture below.
1.6.3 Electrical Safety Warning
Please be aware of proper electrical safety.
There are sufficient voltages in this kit to give you a very nasty and harmful shock, so be careful
when powering on, debugging, and probing around.
precautions necessary when building the kit if you feel unsure about what you are doing at any
stage of the build.
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Section 2
Mechanical Assembly
2.1 Overview
This is the latest version Legend Chassis. In this section we do the mechanical preparation required
to get started on the kit.
Let's start with the chassis and install the:
rubber grommets
8-pin valve base
Tang strips
Capacitor clamp
Ceramic Hardwiring Posts
Filament Supply board hardware
Choke
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2.2 Installing the Rubber Grommets
Let's start by installing the supplied grommets in the appropriate holes. You'll find 3 large and 2
small grommets in your kit bag.
Install the grommets in chassis. Take your time and push them in; they're a bit tight so you'll
likely have to wiggle them into position from the top and the bottom of the chassis.
Be careful not
to use a sharp object to push them in –just use your hands.
Grommets installed
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2.3 Installing the Valve Base
Now we'll install the Black 8-pin valve base for the rectifier tube, at the rear of the chassis. Here's a
picture of the valve base, the Black ring, and the screws that we'll need.
Position the KEY in the valve base so that it points to the front of the chassis, as shown below:
Use the Black ring on the underside of the chassis to secure the valve base into position
. This view
clearly shows the notch pointing toward the front of the chassis.
Table of contents
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