ANK Mentor 2A/300B Instructions for use

Mentor SET Power Amplifier
Construction Manual
2A/300B
Version 1.00-01 (Beta), October 2019
1-613-822-7188

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Table of Contents
Section 1 —Introduction ………………………………………….……………….…………………… 6
1.1 About ANK Audio Kits ……………………………………………..………………………….…….….…….……… 7
1.2 Basic Operation of the Amplifier……………................…………………….…………………....…….……… 8
1.2.1 Overview ………………………………….……………………………………………....…….……… 8
1.2.2 Component Placement ………………………………….……..…………………………..…….……… 9
1.2.3 300B Pinout ………………………………………………………………………….……….…….……… 10
1.3 Equipment ……………………………..……………………………………………………………….…..….……… 11
1.3.1 Overview of the Kit ……………………………………………………….…………..……………… 11
1.4 Tips and Suggestions …………………………………………………….………….……………….………...…… 11
1.4.1 Soldering …………………………………………………….……….………………..….………….… 11
1.4.2 Components ……………………….…………………………….……………………………..…….….…12
1.4.3 Resistor Sizes ……………………………………………….……….………………….……….…….….…12
1.4.4 Capacitor Manufacturers and Voltage Ratings …………………………………..…….…12
1.4.5 Electrolytic Capacitors ………………………………………………………………………...………… 12
1.4.6 Diodes ………………………………………….……………………………..…………………………………… 13
1.4.7 Hardware/Mechanical …………………………………………………………………………………… 13
1.4.8 Wire Stripping and Tinning ……………………………………………………………………… 13
1.4.9 Wire Color ……………………………………………………..……………….………………………… 14
1.4.10 Optional Finishing Touches …………………………..……………….……………………….…14
1.5 Build Process …………………………………………………………………………….………………….…..………… 14
1.5.1 Some Good Rules of Thumb for Building Your Amplifier ………………………….…… 14
1.5.2 Organization of this Manual ……………………………………………………….…..…….…… 15
1.5.3 Electrical Safety Warning …………………………………….……………………...………… 17
Section 2 —Mechanical Assembly and Initial Power Supply Wiring …………….…18
2.1 Overview …………………………………………………………………………………..….………..………...…… 18
2.2 Installing the Feet ……………………………………………………………………..….………..………...…… 19
2.3 Installing the IEC Socket and Rocker Switch …………………………………….………..….….…… 21
2.4 Installing the Speaker Posts ………………………………………………………………….……..….….…… 22
2.5 Installing the RCA Jacks …………………………………………………………………….…..….….…… 23
2.6 Installing the Chassis Ground Screw …………………………………………………………...….….…… 24
2.7 Installing the Mains Transformer ……………………..………………………………………..….…… 25
2.8 Bundling the Mains Wires …………………………...................…………………………..…….…..…… 27
2.9 Preparing the Mains Ground Wire ……................................…………………….…………….…… 28
2.10 IEC PCB Wiring …………................................................................……………………………….…...…….…… 30
2.11 Connecting and Mounting the IEC Board ………….................…………………………………...…….…… 33
2.12 Installing the Choke ……………………………………………………………………………………....…….…… 35

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Section 3 —Power Supply Board Installation ................................................................ 37
3.1 Overview …………………………………………………………………………………..….….…..……..…….…… 37
3.2 Parts List …………………………………………………………………………………..….….………....…….…… 39
3.3 Installing the Valve Base ………………………………………………………..….………..…...…….…… 39
3.4 Installing the Resistors ……………………………………………………………………..….….………….…….…… 40
3.5 Installing the Capacitors and Diode …………………………………………..….….………….…….…… 42
Section 4 —Filament Supply Board Installation ........................................................... 44
4.1 Overview ……………………………………………………………………………….…..….………..………...…… 44
4.2 Parts List ……………………………………………………………………………….…..….…………....…….…… 46
4.3 Installing the Resistors ………………………………………………………………….…..….…………….…….…… 46
4.4 Installing the Bridge Rectifiers …………………………………………………….…..……….……....…….…… 46
4.5 Installing the Capacitors …………………………………………………….…..….………..…..…….…… 47
4.6 Installing the Regulators …………………………………………………….…..….…………….…….…… 47
Section 5 —Driver Board Installation …………….............................................................. 49
5.1 Overview ……………………………………………………………………………..………..….….……..…….…… 49
5.2 Schematic ……………………………………………………………………………..………..….….……..…….…… 51
5.3 Parts List …………………………………………………………………………………..…..….….……..…….…… 52
5.4 Installing the Valve Bases …………………………………………………………….….….……..…….…… 52
5.5 Installing the Resistors ……………………………………………………………………..………….……..…….…… 53
5.6 Installing the Capacitors ………………………………………………………..….………...…..…….…… 53
Section 6 —Output Transformers Installation ............................................................. 55
6.1 Overview …………………………………………………………………………………..….………...…….......…… 55
6.2 Installing the Output Transformers …………………………………………..….………..……..………… 56
Section 7 —Power Supply Board Interwiring ............................................................. 58
7.1 Overview ……………………………………………………………………………………..….….…….…..…...…… 58
7.2 Connecting the Choke ………………………………………………………………………………...….…...………… 60
7.3 Connecting the Mains Secondary Wires ……………………………………….…..….……………..…….…… 61
7.4 The CHS Connection …………………………………………………….……….…………………..………………… 62
7.5 The Blue/White and LED NEGATIVE Connection …………………………………….……………………… 63
7.6 The Remaining Connections ………………………………………………….……………….…….……….…… 63
7.7 Installing the Power Supply Board ……………………………………………….……………..…….…… 65

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Section 8 —Filament Supply Board Interwiring ................................................ 66
8.1 Overview …………………………………………………………………….………………….…..………..…….…… 66
8.2 Connecting the Mains Secondary Wires …………………………………..….……………….……..…….…… 67
8.3 Additional Connections ……………………………………………..........………………….…………..…..…….…… 68
8.4 Installing the Filament Supply Board …………………………………………....….…………....…….…… 69
Section 9 —Chassis-Mounted Output Section Installation ................................... 70
9.1 Overview …………………………………………………………………………………..………….…….…....….…70
9.2 Installing the Tag Strips………………………………………………………………………….….………..….…....…72
9.2.1 Wiring the Tag Strips …………………………………………..……...……................…..….….…… 72
9.2.2 Installing the Tag Strips ………….…………………..………..……..…….….................…76
9.3 Installing the Valve Bases ………………………………………………………..….………….....……....…77
9.3.1 Wiring the Valve Bases …………………………………………..……...................………...…….…… 77
9.3.2 Wiring the Left Valve Base ………….…………………..………..……...................…….…… 79
9.3.3 Wiring the Right Valve Base ………….…………………..………..……...................…….…… 80
9.3.4 Installing the Valve Bases ………….…………………..………..……...................…….…… 80
Section 10 —Additional Interwiring ……...................................................... 81
10.1 Connecting the RCA Jacks …………………………………………………….…..….……………..…….…… 81
10.2 Driver Board Interwiring ………………………………….……………………..…...…….………..….…… 82
10.2.1 Installing the Filament and Filament Jumper Wires ……………….........…….…… 83
10.2.2 The 6SH7 and GND Connections ……………………………………………………..……...…….…… 85
10.2.3 The O/P Connections ……………………………………………………………..….……………..…….…… 86
10.2.4 The LED POSITIVE Connection ………………….……………………………………...………...….…… 88
10.2.5 Installing the Driver Board ……………………………………………………………………..…….…… 89
10.2.6 The Signal Connections …………………………………………………………………………...…….…… 90
10.3 Connecting the Speaker Posts ……………………………..….……………………..….………..…………..…… 91
Section 11 —Testing ……………………………………………………….........................…….. 94
11.1 Overview .......................................................................................................................................... 94
11.2 Installing the Fuse .......................................................................................................................... 95
11.3 Initial Tests .......................................................................................................................................... 96
11.4 First Power-Up .......................................................................................................................................... 96
11.4.1 300 Filament Test ……………………………………………………………………………………..…….…… 97
11.5 Voltage Checks ........................................................................................................................................... 97
11.6 Sound Check .......................................................................................................................................... 102
11.7 Debugging .......................................................................................................................................... 103
11.7.1 Mains Secondary Voltages ….…………………………………………………………………..…….…… 103

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Section 12 —Finishing Touches ……………………..………………………………….…..………… 104
12.1 Installing the Front Faceplate ………..………………………………………..…………………………………… 104
12.2 Installing the LED ……………………..………………………………………..…………………………………… 104
12.3 Last Looks Inside ……………………..………………………………………..…………………………………… 104
12.4 Installing the Chassis Top ………..………………………………………..…………………………………… 104
Section 13 —Final Thoughts ……………………..………………………………….…...………… 105
13.1 Congratulations ……………………..………………………………………..…………………………………… 105
13.2 Cables …………………………………..………………………….……………………………………………….…...………… 105
13.3 Tube Rolling ……………………..………………………….……………………………………………….…...………… 106
13.3.1 5U4G(B) ………..…………………..……….………………………..……………………...…………… 106
13.3.2 6SH7 ……………………..…………………..……….………………………..……………………...…………… 107
13.3.3 300B and 2A3 ……………………..………………………………………………………….…….…………… 107
13.4 Thanks ……………………..…………………………………………………..……………….…………….………………….… 107
Appendix ……………………………………………..………………………………..….……….……….…… 108
Wiring for 240V ………………………………………………………………………….………….…..…….…… 109
Resistor Color Code Reference ……………………………………………………….……………….…..…….…… 112

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Section 1
Introduction
Thanks for purchasing the ANK Audio Kits Mentor SET Power Amplifier. Our goal is to provide you
with the highest quality kit that you will build from scratch with these instructions.
This is very high end and sophisticated piece of audio equipment that will surely become a showpiece
of your sound system. We're excited that you have chosen to join us in enjoying and appreciating
superb audio and we've created this manual to help guide you through each step of the build process
with as much detail and clarity as possible. To facilitate the process, the manual has been divided
into a number of sections, each focusing on a separate aspect of the system: follow the sections in
order and we guarantee you not only a problem-free experience, but a pleasant time as well in doing
so. If you are new to building kits —or if at any time you feel as though you need help or advice, feel
free to contact us and we will do whatever it takes to get you on the right track.

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1.1 About ANK Audio Kits
Audio Note (UK) started out in the early '90s developing several DIY audio kits while they were
building up their finished product business. DIY Audio has a long history and it was an opportunity
for knowledgeable customers to take advantage of world class designs and components. Audio Note
(UK) was focused on using the very finest materials and components custom-made to their
specifications, across their entire product line —from custom film and electrolytic capacitors to
tantalum resistors, transformers, binding posts, wires, etc. The Kit1 300B single-ended integrated
amplifier was born during development of the Meishu and it proved to be extremely popular
worldwide. The ANKit business was born!
As the finished product business and dealer network started to flourish, Audio Note (UK) eventually
moved the kit business off into a separate division; thus, in 2004, Audio Note Kits started up and was
supported by a website so that customers not located near Audio Note (UK) dealers could order kits
and have them shipped direct. Kit development continued in earnest during the 2000s with
development assisted by Audio Note (UK) engineering. Audio Note (UK) parts were used throughout
the kits, depending on the various levels and budgets. By 2013, ANK Audio Kits (as it came to be
called) had developed a wide product range covering all areas of two channel audio: a single-ended
300B product line, an EL34 Class AB and single-ended product line, digital to analog converters, pre-
amplifiers, phono stages, and Audio Note (UK) speaker kits. The end result today is that customers
worldwide with DIY skills can now build an entire high end audio system to their liking. With the
introduction of higher product levels in 2013 and the release of the Level 5 Mentor Pre-amplifier and
the DAC 5.1 Signature, some customers wanted these high end products assembled by a professional
builder. As a result, ANK Audio Kits began offering this service for some Level 4 and 5 products so
that a significant investment in a kit could be turned into a work of art! Since ANK Audio Kits was
born in 2004, over 2,500 kits have been shipped to customers worldwide. Clearly, there is a real
demand for high end audio kits and ANK Audio Kits has been delivering the goods now for 15 years.
We believe and hope that you will have a great experience building your kit and we look forward to
hearing from you about your experience.
Regards,
Brian Smith —Director ANK Audio Kits

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1.2 Basic Operation of the Amplifier
1.2.1 Overview
ANK Audio Kits is pleased to announce the new Mentor SET Power Amplifier. As anyone who has ever
heard the transcendent musicality of a single-ended amplifier will tell you, there is something very
special about the music that flows from (relatively) simple, classic Class A triode circuits. Perhaps
it's the absence of crossover distortion, perhaps it's the gorgeous midband reproduction, perhaps it's
the zero-feedback design, perhaps it's the organic (even desirable) expressiveness of the second
harmonic; more likely it's all of this and more.
ANK Audio Kits and SET amplifiers go a long way back —right to the beginning in fact, with our Kit1
300B, which has had successive and very successful anniversary editions. Our single or parallel
300B or 2A3 Legend monoblocks are much sought after and the ultimate variant, our SET 300B
Interstage C-Core monoblocks, is simply awesome!
The Mentor SET Power Amplifier's Power Supply uses the classic 5U4G(B) rectifier tube, a high
quality Mundorf capacitor to smooth the AC power, DC 300B filaments, and a substantial Choke to
supply clean, high quality DC power to the circuitry while assuring dead quiet operation. The 2 6SH7
driver tubes, selected by Andy Grove, Audio Note (UK)'s Senior Design and R&D Engineer, for reasons
related to input impedance and power amplifier sensitivity, are wired in a pentode configuration to
drive the 300B or 2A3 triodes, which in turn produce either 8.5W or 3.5W per channel respectively
driving the EI-Core or quad C-Core output transformers. In our experience, even 3.5W is usually
plenty of power for most listening, especially with higher efficiency speakers.1
1We recommend a minimum of 88db speaker sensitivity.

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In developing the new Mentor SET Power Amplifier we have basically built the Legend monoblock
circuit on three thick high quality printed circuit boards: a quality Power Supply board for the
rectifier, a Filament Supply board to supply the output tubes, and a Driver (6SH7) board that
includes high quality Audio Note (UK) 1W Tantalum non-magnetic resistors and four Audio Note (UK)
Copper Foil capacitors. The amplifier has an ultra sturdy 3mm aluminum chassis, powder coated
black, a new Mains transformer (T-195), a substantial Choke (CH-170), the latest Mundorf MLytic HV
4-pole capacitor technology to smooth the AC power, high quality black Teflon 4- and 8-pin valve
bases, Audio Note (UK) hardwire tag strips, and EI-Core or C-Core output transformers.
It's an ideal 300B stereo power amplifier designed to mate with the Mentor pre-amplifier. It is
modestly priced and, as such, an exceptional value.
1.2.2 Component Placement
Mentor SET Power Amplifier

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1.2.3 300B Pinout
The 300B tube has four pins: two filaments (one of which serves as the Cathode; we use pin 1), the
Plate/Anode, and the Grid. The two filament pins have noticeably larger diameters than the Anode
and the Grid, so it's easy to make the distinction between the pairs of pins. However, as I'm sure you
realize already, the left/right pin identification 'flips' when the valve base is viewed from the top or
bottom. Therefore, it requires that you pay special attention as to which way you're looking at
things when you wire the 300B valve bases and make the connections to the bases from other
components.
Have a look at the following diagram:
On the left is the top view of a valve base; on the right, the bottom view of a 300B tube.
The wiring
graphics in the manual generally use the valve base view; in any case, you can tell which view is
being used by the different icons.
Please pay special attention to this.
FYI, here's the original Western Electric pinout2:
2Rotated left 90 degrees.

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1.3 Equipment
Here is the list of equipment that will be required:
Philips screwdriver
A pair of quality wire strippers
A large, organized work area
Soldering iron station with wet sponge
Lead-based solder (4% Silver is recommended)
1.3.1 Overview of the Kit
In your kit you will find a series of kit bags containing all the hardware, wire, and parts for the
associated sections of the amplifier. See the Parts List files on the disk to match up the parts in the
kit bags with the lists. There is also a Master list for the kit.
1.4 Tips and Suggestions
We have learned a lot about kit building over the last decade from our customers and I'd like to share
some tips with you to ensure a successful project. Please read through this section thoroughly, it will
give you a good idea of what's ahead and help ensure your success!
1.4.1 Soldering
We highly recommend using lead-based solder with some silver content3on the build. You should use
lead-free ONLY if you are experienced using it and confident. Lead-free solder requires a higher
melting temperature and thus is more difficult to use. We don’t recommend lead-free solder for first-
time builders.
We suggest that you practice your soldering before starting on the kit. Feel free to request practice
parts with your kit so that you can practice tinning wires and making nice solder joints. The key is a
good soldering station with a sponge, the right temperature, a good size tip, and experience;
remember, tips can wear out so make sure your tip is working. (You can also check out YouTube
videos for soldering lessons and examples.) The solder should flow freely; if it’s forming balls then
there is likely a problem with the tip, the temperature, or (sometimes) the surface. Feel free to
contact us for help!
3For example, WBT-0800.

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1.4.2 Components
Using the Ohm setting on your multimeter is very useful when building a kit. It's a good, practical
way of measuring resistors and continuity and is much easier than reading the color codes on the
side. (With practice, the color codes can also be a good way to determine the resistance, but that
method is better left to experienced builders.)
1.4.3 Resistor Sizes
Resistors today, particularly metal film resistors, are often smaller than you might expect. It used to
be that the difference between a 1/2W and a 1W resistor was obvious: the 1W was considerably
larger. That way of looking at things sometimes now no longer applies. Please be assured that all
resistors supplied with ANK Audio Kits are rated at least per the specified wattage: in some cases, a
higher than specified wattage may be supplied.
1.4.4 Capacitor Manufacturers and Voltage Ratings
Occasionally, depending on parts availability, we may use capacitors from different manufacturers.
These will always be of equal or higher quality! As a result, some of the pictures in the manual may
look a bit different at times. With regard to voltage ratings, normally, the voltage rating of the
supplied capacitors will be exactly what you see on the parts lists. Occasionally, a part may be
supplied with a higher voltage. Think nothing of it!
1.4.5 Electrolytic Capacitors
For those who have not built a piece of electronics before, here is a little lesson on capacitors. There
are basically two types of capacitors that we use in the kits: electrolytic and signal capacitors. Of
these, electrolytic capacitors require special attention. Electrolytic capacitors are “polarized,” which
means they have a POSITIVE (+) and a NEGATIVE (–) lead and typically have values like 100uf 450V,
10uf 160V, or 470uf 35V.
These capacitors need to be installed correctly or else they will possibly
blow up at some point!
Each electrolytic capacitor will have a
wide stripe
on the NEGATIVE side. Always ensure that this
stripe (NEGATIVE) is positioned correctly. There are several keys on a printed circuit board to help
you to know how to position the capacitor:
1. There may be a "+" on the board indicating where to position the POSITIVE lead.
2. The segmented half of the circular stencil on the board shows where to position the NEGATIVE
lead. The unsegmented ('half-moon') part of the circle is where the POSITIVE lead goes.
3. The POSITIVE lead goes to a square solder pad while the NEGATIVE lead goes to a round solder
pad.

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1.4.6 Diodes
When installing diodes note that they are oriented with a stripe —
match the stripe on the diode with
the banding (||) stencil on the board.
1.4.7 Hardware/Mechanical
Not all of us are mechanically oriented. So, the kit is well laid out such that all the hardware is
provided and bagged in individual sections, so things should make sense. Start thinking
mechanically because about a third of the kit is mechanical. The first thing to remember is that good
hardware is beautiful: we use all stainless steel metric hardware in the kits. It truly is a thing of
beauty: don’t rush your hardware! Here are a few helpful things to understand:
We use British metric hardware (M3, M4, M5, screw size 10mm, 15mm, etc..) as opposed to the
American imperial system (5/1000th or 50/1000th, 1 inch, 3/4 inch). Please familiarize
yourself with the hardware in the kit.
The screws will be called M3 or M4, which is the diameter of the shaft. The length of the shaft
will be in millimeters, so you will encounter things like an M4 screw 16mm, a PAN head screw
(which is a round spherical head), or a COUNTERSUNK or FLAT head screw (a screw head that
needs to be flush with a surface —for example, under a transformer). So if you are asked to
use an M3 16mm CSK screw, this is an M3 size (obviously), which is a thinner shaft diameter
than an M4; 16mm is the length of the shaft; and the head type is CSK, which is a countersunk
or flat head screw.
Once you have the screws mastered, look at the matching nuts such as M4 nut or M3 nut and
corresponding washers.
Standoffs are common in the kits (again, they are either M3 or M4 size, with different
lengths). They are typically threaded, so the screw goes into them.
If any of the hardware is confusing or something is not fitting right, please email us.
1.4.8 Wire Stripping and Tinning
When it comes to wires, we typically use 18 gauge (thicker) and 22 gauge in the kits. It's PTFE: Teflon
silver-plated copper wire. Basically this is classed as hook-up wire; we typically twist wire for you
when it needs to be. The other wire we use is called shielded cable, like an AN-A (Audio Note (UK)) for
signals. This is two-conductor wire: one is for the signal and the other (a big ground braid wrapped
around the signal wire) is the shielding, which helps prevent the cable from picking up noise. You
should practice stripping some 18g or 22g wire, and then try tinning this wire; this is the process of
adding solder to the bare wire so that the invisible coating on the wire is burned off. This makes for
easy soldering to a PCB, an RCA connector, or a transformer terminal. So it's a good idea to practice
this a little before starting the kit.

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1.4.9 Wire Color
In the earlier sections of this manual, particularly those sections dealing with the Mains transformer
and Choke wires, the colors of the wires should match the color of the wires in your kit. If they don't,
or if you're unsure about things, contact audionotekits@rogers.com. Later on, at the Interwiring
stage, there may be some differences between the descriptions (or pictures) of the color of wires that
you will connect and the color of the wires supplied with your kit; for example, depending on
inventory, we may supply a Black–Red twisted pair instead of a Green–Red (or vice-versa). Don't
worry! Just be sure to check the wiring diagrams carefully and connect the correct points together
and all will be well!
1.4.10 Optional Finishing Touches
From time to time we get asked about some of the build details of the ANK Finished Products that you
can see in the pictures in the "Assembled Kits Gallery!" (https://ankits.smugmug.com/) on our
website. It's important to understand that these stunningly beautiful products were done by an
accomplished professional builder with decades of experience and that some particulars of the build
may be beyond most of us. However, experienced builders who want to incorporate some of these
finishing touches should feel free to do so. While we don't officially support or supply parts for these
optional enhancements, there's no reason why you couldn't or shouldn't do them if you want to and
feel that you can handle them. Without getting into the details (you're on your own here), what you'll
want to get hold of are: heatshrink (to bundle wires), cable ties (to secure large capacitors), stacked
(male/female) standoffs and cable clamps (to elevate and secure signal cables), and cable sleeving.
You can get some of these from your local hardware store (for example, 1/4" Cable Clamps) and
other, more specialized, parts from online distributors such as Grainger, Digi-Key, Mouser, or Cable
Ties and More. If you do decide to dress your build with some of these, please send us a picture or
two. We'd love to see what you did!
1.5 Build Process
1.5.1 Some Good Rules of Thumb for Building Your Amplifier
Take your time, prepare, and try and work on a small task each time you start to build the kit.
Instead of rushing through another section —use the end of your session to check your work.
Always ask yourself if the step you are performing makes sense.
Have fun with your build and savour the experience. Take the time to do a really good job!
Feel free to contact us via email audiono[email protected]om if you have any questions or
suggestions during your build —and feel free to send us pictures, etc. We'd be pleased to give
you tips along the way.

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1.5.2 Organization of this Manual
The Mentor SET Power Amplifier is available with EI-Core or C-Core output transformers. The build
process is identical; that said, this manual was developed when building the EI-Core variant so, for
the most part, the pictures are of that build —although there are some pictures of a C-Core build.
We've divided the build and the manual into the following sections:
1. Introduction
2. Mechanical Assembly and Initial Power Supply Wiring
3. Power Supply Board Installation
4. Filament Supply Board Installation
5. Driver Board Installation
6. Output Transformers Installation
7. Power Supply Board Interwiring
8. Filament Supply Board Interwiring
9. Chassis-Mounted Output Section Installation
10. Additional Interwiring
11. Testing
12. Finishing Touches
13. Final Thoughts
Appendix

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Here's another way of looking at how the manual is organized and how the sections fit into the 'big
picture': the manual sections generally mirror how the components are positioned in the amplifier.

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1.5.3 Electrical Safety Warning
Please be aware of proper electrical safety.
There are sufficient voltages in this kit to give you a very nasty and harmful shock, so be very
careful when powering on, debugging, and probing around.
Please contact ANK Audio Kits via phone or email (audionotekits@rogers.com) to discuss any
precautions necessary when building the kit if you feel unsure about what you are doing at any
stage of the build.

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Section 2
Mechanical Assembly and Initial Power Supply Wiring
2.1 Overview
In this section we will install the feet, IEC socket, Rocker Switch, and the Choke, as well as make
important initial connections to the Mains transformer and install it in the chassis.
When you receive the kit you'll have a series of kit bags. In the following sections we'll be using the:
Hardware bag (made up of individual bags for each section of the kit)
IEC bag (containing the Rocker Switch, IEC, IEC PCB, prepared cables, fuses, etc.)
RCA jacks bag
Speaker posts bag

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2.2 Installing the Feet
Let's start by installing the feet on the chassis —this will make it easier to work with as we install
the transformers, Choke, etc.
Turn the chassis upside down.
Take a foot and insert an M4 screw with washer into it —it might be tight but just push it in.
Install each foot in the hole in the chassis closest to the corner and secure it with an M4 nut on the
inside of the chassis. Don't overtighten the screw; you could damage the foot.

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When completed your feet will look like the picture below. You're on your way!
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