Associated Electrics RC10T User manual

The
New
RC1
OT
!I
Racing
Technology
NEW
SHOCK
STRUT
ANDBOD~\NT
CHAMPIONSHIP-WINNING,
HARD
ANODIZED,
TEFLON-COATED
SHOCKS
NEW
NARROW
AND
WIDE---~
FRONT
TIRES
NEW
NARROW
AND
WIDE
FRONT
WHEELS
Advanced,
Co~npetitiori
NEW
NOSEPLATE
Design
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FIRST,
A WORD
Team Associated's RC10 2WD
ca
r haswon three
IFMAR
WOR~D
CHAMPIONSH
IPS,
inclu
ding
the
1991
race 1n Detr
o1t,
MI. For Austra
li
a,
in 1989, we had devel-
oped
a totally new transmission called the STEALTH
transmission. This STEALTH tranny was also used in the
'91race in Detroit and is part ofour latest
RC
10,
th
eTEAM
~AR.
Out
of
the box, the TEAM CAR has already proven
1t
sthe best. Atthe 1990ROAR NATIONALSin Livermore,
Calif., it finished an impressive 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
We
've used the same WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP-
winning design concepts
and
engineered a whole new
vehicle, the RC10T Truck. This is definitely not a conver-
sion kit, as you'll find out when assembling the truck. As
you
can
tell, we
did
use a few important parts from the
TEAM CAR. We used the
best
transmission in the worl
d-
-the STEALTH tranny. We used the best shocks in the
wor
ld
, our new, improved and hard anodized, Teflon-
coated race-winning sh
ocks
fromthe
TE
AMCAR. Wealso
used another
spee
d secret, our aluminum chassis. Our
Teamdrivers
h~ve
tested both the aluminum
and
graphite
cha~s1s
ex
~
ens1ve
ly
,
and
they've a
ll
learned that they're
gett
1n
g
the1r
best
lap times
wi
th the standard aluminum
chassis. Pages
two
and
th
reedetailallthetota
ll
y newparts
thatwererequired
to
buildournewchampionship-winning
RC10T.
.
Ro_ger
Curtis, Cliff Lett and Curtis Husting used
the1r
comb1ned design experience from the TEAM CAR to
design a truck that would handle like our TEAM CAR.
Although ROAR's racing truck class
is
called Monster
Truck, itwas easyto seethatwhatwas
ac
tuallyracedmore
closely resembled Stadium Trucks.
Anyone
who
has seen the Stadium Trucks race
know
how
exciting they are to watch. All sixteen races in
stadiums all arou
nd
the country are always sold out
proving their popularity. At
th
e race at the Los
Ange
l
e~
Co
l1
seum, the trucks climb all the way up to the top
of
the
bleachers, through the
pe
ristyle end, come charging out
throughanarchwayand thendownan unbelievablejump,
threetofourstories
ta
ll
,
to
the floor
of
theColiseum!It'sone
of
the
more
spectacular sights in truck racing, and the
reason we
depicted
this scene on the RC10T box cover.
Welookedatthe truckrules andfoundoutwhatwe
we~e
allowed to do, and then brought our design and
rac1ng expenencetodesign ourtruck. Curtis Husting built
three prototype trucks. Then Curtis and Cliff put in many
hours of track time fine tuning all the suspension points
before we were r
eady
to start building the truck.
. We still
hadn
't raced the truck in actual competi-
tionbeforewetookthethreetrucksto Floridafor theFlorida
WinterChampionships. Thiswould
be
our firstrace.There
were 450 en
tri
es with all the racing teams present. The all
new RC10T trucks finished 1st and 2nd, with Cliff Lett
winning and Butch Kloeber following in 2nd! It was an
page
4
incredible finish, justifying all our long hard work.
We
are
certainly very well pleased with the
RC
10T and
we
know
you will
be
too.
You'll find the photos in the instructions
so
easy
to
follow that you
may
be
tempted to
put
the tru
ck
together
fr
om
the photos alone. However, although you have the
best truck ki
t,
if you want the
bes
t COMPLETED model
race truck, then you will want to
pu
tit together
correctly-
byfollowingthese instructions. All that'srequired is
to
read
the few lines of text near each photo.
DON'T OPEN ANY
OF
THE PARTS BAGS UNTIL
THESE INSTRUCTIONS TELL YOU , otherwise you'
ll
get
the parts mixed
up
and then you will have trouble assem-
bling your truck.
While you are building the truck you will some-
times beworking withseveral parts
bags
atthesametime.
These
bags
are referred to
by
number in the instructions,
andyou will find a numberlabel on each
of
the main parts
bags. There are also more
bags
inside the main parts
bags: thesearenot
number
ed
and
belong
to the
bag
they
came out
of
.
Bagsand partswillstartmultiplyinglike rabbitsas
youbuild,
so
tryto keep the
bags
separa
t
e.
One
good
way
is
to use lar
ge
paper
plates
(picn
ic plates with partitions
arebest). Marktheplateswith
bag
numbersand
dump
the
parts into them. When the parts are used up, relabel the
plate for another bag. It's much easierto find the partyou
need if it's spread out where you can see i
t.
TOOLS. The
ki
tcontains theshockwrenchandall
the Allen wrenches you'll need,
but
youwill haveto supply
the following:
blade
#2 Phillips screwdriver (Associated #SP76)
A needle-nose pliers
A
hobby
knife, such as an X-acto with a pointed
A soldering iron (25 to 50 watts), and a small
amount
of
ROSIN (not acid) core 60/40 solder.
The kit can be assembledeven easier
if
you have
the following:
3/32"straight A
ll
en wrench
wi
th handle.Will make
installing the Allen screws much faster and easier (Asso-
ciated
#SP
73)
A
ru
ler with decimal inches
or
metric measure
A 3/16" nutdriverwill makeinstalling the ball ends
easier (Associated #SP86)
A 1/4" nut
dr
iver will speed
up
installing the 1/
4"
nuts (#SP85)
Socket or open-end wrench
Small screwdriver
Thread-locking compound
ZAP or Hot Stuff (cyanoacrylate adhesive)
Vise
Fi
le
Dri
ll
with #43 (2.3
mm)
bit
WARNING!
Do
notusea
pow
er
sc
rewdriver.They

spintoofast,
ca
using
sc
rewsto heat
up
whenbeingdriven
into
pla
stic
and
will stripout.
Take yourtime assembling the truck.
It's
not
a
ra
ce
to see how fast you
put
it
together; it's how well
yo
u
put
it together thatdetermines
ho
w fa
st
you
ca
n race.
Boxes at each step are
pr
ovided so you can put
a
check
mark for
each
assembly after each step is
completed.Sowhenyou s
top
duringasse
mbl
y
ti
me,you'll
be
able to
come
back
and
start in the correct step.
To help you identify certain parts, an outline
drawingoccasionallywill accompanythe step.Just pl
ace
your part atop the actual-size drawing to
be
sure it's the
one referred to.
One final note for you experienced builders and
racer
s:
pleasebuild thetruck our
way
first!!
The
RC
1
OT
is a remarkably fast tru
ck
right out
of
the box. There's a
reason for everything
on
the truck, and very few
com
pr
o-
mises
we
re
mad
e in
it
s
de
sign.Workwiththetru
ck
first
and
seewhatitcandobeforeyouexperimentormakechanges.
Clear off yo
ur
wo
rkbench, line
up
so
me paper
plates,
grab
a sandwich,
and
let's
beg
i
n.
..
6
gr-ryTEAM
ASSOCI~tt!~.._.
ASSOCIATED ELECTRICS, INC.
3585 CADILLAC AVE.
COSTA MESA,
CA
92626
FRONT
END
ASSEMBLY
0
Fig.
1
From Bags
6-
14 and
7-1
sc
r
ew
the #6273
longball end into the lefthand#6213frontblockca
rri
eras
shown, then screwon
th
e #7260 nut. Assemble the
ri
ght
hand parts.
Fig.
1
page
5
0
Fig.
2
Againfrom
Bag
6-14
and
7-1,
sc
rewtheshort
#6270 ball end intothe #6217 steering bl
ock
and
sec
ure
it
wi
th the #7260 nut as shown. Assemble the right hand
side.
Fig.
2
0
Fig.
3
Push the #6218 fr
ont
axle from Bag
7-1
into
the #6217 steering
blo
ck as sho
wn
sothe hole in the axle
lines up with the hole in the steering
blo
c
k.
It may push
t
oge
ther with your finger
s.
If not,
LI
GHTLY t
ap
it into the
hol
e.
Asse
mbl
e the right hand s
id
e in
th
e same way.
Fig.
3

0 Fig. 4 You'llnoticethatthehexpartoftheaxledoes
not go all the way into the steering block. That'sO.K. Just
make sure the hole in the axle is lin
ed up with the hole in
the steering block.
Fig. 4
0 Figs. 5, 6 & 7 Line up thesteering blockin the
block carrieras sh ow n,and push the #6223king pin(from
Bag7-1)through.Thepinwill beloose intheblockcarrier,
butwill
be snug in the steering block. We want itthatway.
You
might have to lightly tap it in.
Fig.7 showsa
package of#6299E-clips. Remove
two from
th e package and install an E-clip on eachend of
the
pin . If you run out of E-clips, there are extras in the
shock bags . Assemble the right hand side.
Fig. 5
page 6
Fig. 7
0 Figs. 8 & 9 Again from Bag 7 -1 ,tryone of the
#6227 outer
hinge pins in the outer end of th e #7206 left
hand front A-arm. Your front and rear a-armsmay
be in a
separate,un-numberedbag.(Thelefthandandrighthand
sides of
th e truck are determined like this: with the driver
sittinginthedriver'sseat,onthedriver's lefthandis theleft
hand side of the truck and
on his right hand is the right
hand side of the truck.)
After you've pushed
one of the #6227 pins in the
outside end
of the A-arm, hold the pin and see ifthe arm
will swing freely on the pin. Most racers keep a .126" and
a #30 (.1285") reamer in their toolbox to free
up A-arm
holes and to clean them after racing.
But
we want the pin to fit tight in the #6213 front
block
ca rri er, so do not ream it out. Now, assemble the
block carrier assembly to the outer A-arm with the hinge
pin and install two E-clips
on the pin. Do the right hand
sid
e.

Fig . 8
Fig. 9
0 Figs. 10 & 11 From Bag #7-1 take out the
#7207 front bulkhead, the #7208 aluminum support and
the#7209innerhingepins.Trythepinsin theA-armsagain
and see howthey fit. Free them
up if necessary. We want
the pins to
be tight in the bulkhead. Assemble the front
arms to the bulkhead as shown. Secure with e-clip
s.
Fig. 10
page 7
Fig. 11
0 Figs. 12 & 13 From Bag 6-14 and 7-1, take
the#7214 frontshockstrut
and install two of the#6270ball
ends,with the short threads, into thestrut in the locations
shown.Tighten the ball ends,
and then install and tighten
two#7260 plain nuts on theball
end threads.With thetwo
4/40 x 1/2" screws, install the shock strut to the bulkhead
as shown. Itwill
be a lotquicker and easi er toinstall the 4/
40 screw with a #SP73 3/32 screwd
ri ver handle allen
wrench.
Fig. 12

0 Figs. 13 &
13A Install and
tighten two 4/40 x
3/4" socket head
screws. from Bag 7-
10,inthe upperouter
holes, as shown.
From the same bag
remove two 4-40
plain nuts and two
#4 flat washers and
install
and tighten
onto the screws as
shown. You
may
wish to add washers
on either side of the
shockstrutfor added
support. Washers
are in Bag 7-10.
Fig. 13
Fig. 13A
0 Fig. 14 From Bag 6-14 twist and remove four of
the#6274ball endsfrom thetreeandscrewthemontotwo
long#7253 turnbuckles. The turnbuckles have right hand
threadson
one end and lefthandthreadsontheotherend,
so they'll screw on in differentdirections. This will allowus
to simplyturn the turnbuckles to make adjustments later.
Screw the plastic rod ends on evenly until you
come to the dimensions shown in the photo. Remember.
thesedimensionsare
to theCENTER of theball, NOT to the
end of theballcup.These upper suspensionlinksareused
to adjust the camber of the car.
page 8
Fig. 14
0 Fig.15 Useapliersorneedleno _ sepliersandsnap
the ball ends onto the steel balls as shown.
Fig. 15
0 Fig. 16 The rod endscan be removedquiteeasily
from the
ba lls by holding the rod end with a pliers. as
shown,
and twisting the rod end off the ball, as shown.
Fig. 16

0
Figs.
17
&
18
From Bag7-4removethe#7305
chassis nose plate.
Us
e the four 8/32 x 1/2" aluminum
sc
rewsfrom Bag7
-1
asshown.Install thenoseplatetothe
bottomofthefront bulkheadwiththefourscrews. Usea#2
Ph
ilips
sc
rewdriver
and
tighten the
sc
rews all the way up
until they're snug. DO NOT OVE
RT
I
GH
TEN. If you try to
ti
ght
en
th
em t
oo
tight, you'
ll
strip out the plastic.
Fig.
18
0
Figs.
19
&
20
From Bag7-4 remove the short
silver 8-32 flat h
ead
sc
rew. Then. from Bag 7-2, the two
longer steel screws. The l
ong
sc
rews are
tw
o different
lengths
and
have a short threa
ded
shank
by
the screw
head, a smooth center shaft. and
th
en a threaded end.
Attach the front
end
assemblyto the #6301bl
ack
anodized chassis using the set of three chassis holes
towardsthe rear.Refertofig.147.Thelongestscrewgoes
on the left hand s
id
e. Tighten the three screws.
page9
0
Figs.
21 &
22
From Bag 7-2
take
out
the
#7250 servo
saver
par
ts.
Push the two
plastic bush-
ings i
nt
o the
aluminum
threadedtube
as shown.
Fig.
22
Fig.
21

0
Figs.
23
&
24
From the same bag,slip theleft
handservosaverarm,theonewiththe
big
hole,
down
onto
the aluminum tube. Be sure the hex aligns
at
the bottom.
Nowsliptheservo
arm
onto the tube,lining
up
theVslots.
Slip the spring onto the tube, and then start the
spring adjusting nut on,
so
that the part
of
the nut that is
recessed
togo
aroundthe
sp
ringgoeson first. Tightenthe
nut
by
hand
so
that it is flush with the end
of
the tube.
Theservosaver
can
be
adjustedtighter
by
simply
screwing
down
more
on
theadjustingnut. Butyoumust
be
very careful here. The more you tighten the servo saver
sp
ring,the more l
oad
you transfer to theservo gears,and
the more likelyyou'll strip out theservogears. The adjust-
ing nut should only
be
adjusted below the initial flush
se
tting
un
der
limited racing
cond
itions on an extremely
high bite track.
Fig.
24
0
Fig.
25
Install
five
of
the
#6270
steel
ball
ends
with
the
s h o r t
threads
in
the
loca-
l i o n s
shown.
Fig.
25
0
Fig.
26
Taketheshortestturnbuckle
and
two
of
the
long turnbuckl
es
and thread on the plastic ball
cup
ends
as shown. Reme
mber
,thedimensions aretothecenterof
the ball, NOT to the end
of
the ball c
up
.
D
Fig.
27
Take
the
sho
rt
turnbuckle
andsnapit
on the two
ball ends,
as shown,
using pli-
ers.
Fig.
26
Fig.
27
page
10

0
Fig.
28
Slip the
se
rvo saverassembly
down
onto
thetwo lo
ng
screwsandscrewon thetwo 4-40nylon nuts.
Scr
ew
the nuts down just enough
so
that there isn't any
excessive
up
and down
play
in the servosave
r,
but
NOT
TOOTIGHT. Theservosaverarmsshould
be
freetoswing
to the left
and
right
VERY
FREELY. T
he
servo saver arms
shou
ld
be
para
lle
l.
Fig.
28
0
Figs.
29
&
30
Fr
omB
ag7-4r
emovetwo#7315
nose
brace
tub
es
and the two short 4-40x 1/4" SHCS and
two l
ong
4/40 x 1/2" SHCS
sc
r
ews
as shown. We want to
insta
ll
the t
ub
es
so
thatthe
sc
r
ew
holes that are closest to
the end
of
the tubes
go
towards t
he
fr
ont
of
the car.
Sl
ip thetubesthroughtheholesin thesh
ock
strut,
a
nd
align the tube in the slot in the bulkhead. Install the
short
sc
rew through the hole in the chassis and the rear
hole in the tube. Install the scre
w,
but
do
nottighten it yet.
Install the
lo
ng
er
screw
through the front bulkhead and
tubeandtighten,
but
do
notovertightenthe
sc
rew. Tighten
the rear screw.
Do
both tubes.
..
1
11\1\11111111\
•
4-40
X
1/2
7315
111mm
4-40 X 1/4
Fig.
29
pag
e
11
Fig.
30
0 Fig.
31
Usinga plier
s,
install both
of
the longertie
r
od
turnbuckles as shown. Ifyou move the servo saver to
the left and right it will
be
easier.

0
Figs.
32
&
33
Install the two#7319 front
body
mounts(fromBag7-5)tothe#7318
body
mountbracewith
the two 4-40 x 1/4" round button head screws. Align the
small body clip holes in the ends of the
body
mounts so
theypoint to the left and right. Tighen screws, but not too
tight. Install the braceonto the front bulkhead with two 4-
40 x 3/8" SHCS screws as shown.
Do
not overtighten
screws.
Fig.
32
Fi
g.
33
0
Figs.
34
&
34a
lnstall the#7324frontbumper
to the chassis nose, as shown, using two #6291 4-40 x 1/
4"
flat head screws and #7260 4-40 thin plain nuts.
You
may
haveto trim a littleoffthe bumperto makesuretheA-
arms clear.
Fig.
34A
page
12

Featuring:
Quick-change spur gear
Case-to-motor platedirt-
proofseal
Lightweightdesign
Long-life clutch friction plate
Large area/high torque clutch
plates
Low inertia drive train
Transmission
TEAM ASSOCIATED
STEALTH
with ATC TRANSMISSION
page 13
for the RClOT
Precision-molded 48 pitch gears
with extra low2.25 final drive ratio
Reversible motormounting
Black anodized mounting plate
Class 3 stainless steel ball bear-
ings
Tungsten carbide differential balls
Teflon sealed ball bearings
High torque ball differential

STEALTH
TRANSMISSION
We feel this transmission
is
the best in the
wo
rld.
It
has enabledTeam Associated to finish 1st, 2nd
and
3rd
at
the World ChampionshipsinAustralia and 1st. 2ndand
3rd
at
the ROAR Nationals in Northern California with our
RC
10car. With this transmissionyourRC1
OT
will
be
much
easier to drive. enabling
yo
u to cut your l
ap
times
by
a
co
nsiderableamount. Butitalldepends,
of
co
urse.on
how
well you assemble and maintain
yo
ur
transmission. So
take your ti
me
and
do
it to the
be
st
of
your ability.
0
Figs.
35
&
36
Look for the
bag
with the#6604
blackmotorplateasshownin Fig.68. Fromthere, remove
Bag
A
and
take out the #6580 diff
gear
and the
bag
with
the 12large#65813\32"
carbide
diff balls.These
car
bide
diff balls are the best there
is
. They will outlast the
diff
washers at least 10times.NEV
ER
replacethese balls with
any other balls
except
our #6581
ca
rbi
de
diff
ba
lls.
Nowtake out the #6591 Stealth white sili
co
ne
diff
lube. Another word
of
ca
ution. DO NOT substitute any
other
type
of diff lu
be
on the balls. It took us coun
tl
ess
hours
of
testing tofind thecorrectsiliconedifflubetomake
thediffwork
co
rr
ect
l
y.
Do
yo
ur
selfa favor:usewhat
comes
in this kit!
Trim
any
excess
flash
off
the
insideofthe
gear
bearing
hole.
Fill the holesinthe
gear
withthe
si
li
co
nediff
lube and then
pu
sh the 12
ca
rbide balls into the holes.
Wipe
the excess lube
back
into the
ba
ll holes with your
finger.
6580
/
6581
STEALTH
DIFF
LUBE
#6591
Fig.
36
Fig.
35
0
Fig.
37
Your
gear
.
Fig.
37
0
Fig.
38
Cleanallt
hes
ili
conegreaseo
ffyourhands.
Next open Bag B which
co
ntains the nine bearings for the
tranny.Takeoutthe threesma
ll
bearingswith
5/
16"outside
diameterand laythemonaflatsurf
ace
.
If
youlook
ca
refully
yo
u will seethat one has a slightly larger insidediameter.
The twobearingswith thesmallinsidediameterare#6589
and theonewith the larger I.
D.
isa #6901.Pushone
of
the
#6589 ball bearings onto thecenterof the
gea
r.The other
#6589bearing
goesontothe#6578
1efthand hub fromBag
A as s
how
n.
6578
Fig.
38
pag
e
14

0 Fig. 39 Your completed gear.
Fig. 39
0 Figs. 40 &41 U singt he#65781eftdiffoutdrive
hub
aga in. Remove the#6589 bearingand set itaside tor
amoment. Make
sure the hub is clean and free from all
burrs. Push the #6582 diff thrust spring into the hub and
then al ign the plastic T-nut with the slots in the hub and
push the T-nut all the way
in against the spring.
6578
6582
,~ ~75
Fig.40
Fig. 41
page 15
0 Fig. 42 T akeanExactok nif ea ndtrim offa n yo ft he
plast
ic T-nut that extends outside of the slot, as shown.
Fig. 42
0 Fig. 43 There should now be approximately a
3/32" or .100"
gap where shown.
Fig. 43

0
Fig.
44
From
Bag
A take outthe #6575 diff thrust
bolt. the two #6573
diff
thrust washers
and
the #6576
carbide thrust balls.
6575
I
Fig.
44
0
Figs.
45
&
46
Slip thetwo washerson the bolt.
as shown. and then fill the area between them with the
#6588 black grease. DONOT usethe bla
ck
greaseon the
diff balls in the
gea
r.
e e a a e
Fig.
45
Fig.
46
page
16
0
Fig.
47
Now take the balls and place them
all
aroundthe boltbetween thetwo washers. The grease
wi
ll
hold th
em
in place.
Fig.
47
0
Fig.
48
Take
th
e#6577 righthand
diff
outdrivehub.
make
sure
it's
clean
and
free
of all burrs,
and
put the
other #6589 ball bearings into the hub.The ball bearings
must
go
inwith asimple push
of
yo
urfinger.
NEVER
drive
them
in!
Nowplaceone
of
the #6579 diffdrive ringsonto
the hub.
Fig.
48

0
Fig.
49
Your
hub
should looklike this.DO
NOT
try
to
pin
the
drive
ringtothe hub.
The
hub
isdesig
ned
tolock
the drive ring without pinning. LeaveAS I
S.
Fig.
49
0 Fig.
50
Slip the 5/64" Allen wrench from the
separate unlabelled wrench
bag
into the bolt head and
thensliptheassemblyintoandthroughtherighthand
hub
.
• '
Fig.50
page
17
0
Fig.
51
Turn theassemblyupright.
Make
su
re the
drive
ring is still ON
and
ce
ntered. Slip the
diff
gear
onto
the
bolt
as
shown.
Fig.
51
0
Fig.
52
Now
placetheother#6579driveringonto
the diffballs and centeritascloseas possibletothe
gear
.
Fig.
52

0 Figs.
53
&
54
Si
ipthe#6577
1
efthandhubdown
onto the bolt, making sure the
hub
cen
ters itself onto the
drive rings. THIS IS IMPORTANT.
Fig.
53
0
Fig.
54
Now
start to tighten the bolt with the Allen
wrench,
making
sure the hubs and drive rings stay cen-
tered. Do this very slowl
y.
We want to make sure every-
thing stays centered.We'
ll
finish the tightening in the next
step with f
igs
. 55 &
56
.
Fig.
54
0 Figs.
55
&
56
Contin
ue
ti
ghtening slowly until
the spring is just about completely
co
llapsed. DON'T
OVER-TIGHTEN! Corr
ec
t adjustment is bottoming the
spri
ng
and
then
backing
off 1/8to 1/4 turn.
0 Fig.
56
As you're tightening, you'
ll
n
otice
the ear
ontheT-nut,shown
by
the arrow,movingcloserandcloser
to the bottom of the slot in the
hub
. The
spring
should
bottomout
about
the same timeas theear is
at
t
he
bottom
of the slot. When you feel the
spr
ing bottom
out
. that's
whenyou
back
off
1/8to 1/4 turn and your
diff
is correctly
adjusted. The diff should operate very·
smoot
hly when
turning the hubs in opposite directions. Re
chec
k the
adjustment before driving the car. There is never a need
to adjust the diff in any
ot
her manner.
Fig.
56
page
18

0
Fig.
57
Open
Bag
Candremovethe#6565 leftand
righthandtransmissioncases(trannycases), andremove
any flash left from molding. Then install the four #6906
upper and t
wo
#6903 lower bearings.
Fig.
57
0
Figs.
58
&
59
Open Bag D and removethe
#6571 drive gear assembly and slide it into the upper
bearing in the right hand gear case.
Fig.
58
page 19
Fig.
59
0
Fig.
60
Open
Bag
E and using a pliers, squeeze
th
eroll pinintotheholein
th
e shaftuntilitis
eq
uallyspaced.
Fig.
60

0
Figs.
61
&
62
Nowtake the diffassemblyand
inserttherighthand hub, which isthe onethat hasthe bolt
HEAD in it, into the #6503 b
ea
ring.
Fig.
61
Fig.
62
0
Fig.
63
N
owca
refull
yslipthe#6570
idl
ergearinto
the
ce
nt
er
bearing.
Fig.
63
0
Fig.
64
The inside
of
your tranny should look like
this. Slip
th
e left hand side of your tranny onto the right
hand side.
Fig.
64
pag
e 20

0
Fig.
65
FromBag
Fputthefour
4-40x
1"Allenhead
caseboltsintothecasefrom thel
eft
hand side.You'llhave
to
sc
r
ew
them in. Screw in the boltsso they ext
end
about
1/8" on the other sid
e.
Fig.
65
0
Fig.
66
Nowtake the four #6569 plastic spacers
from Bag C and
sl
ip three
of
them
in
to the #6566 felt dust
shie
ld
from Bag Fsothatthesmall
end
of thespacers can
go
intothe case holes.
6560
Fig.
66
0
Fig.
67
Slip t
he
felt du
st
shield on the three
bo
lts
as shown
and
slip the fourth plastic
spacer
on
the
ot
her
bolt.
Fig.
67
0
Fig.
68
Nowtakethe#660
4
blackmotormou
nta
nd
bolt the tranny to it in the l
oca
tion shown
and
ti
ghten the
four bolts. Then install the small plastic
du
st
cap
in the
case, where the arrow indicates.
Fig.
68
Fig.
68A
page
21