Cheetah 160 Owner’s Manual
3. Open the wings slightly then walk the wings out to about three quarters of their full extension. As
before the wings should ideally be walked out together. If you are rigging by yourself move alternate
wings gradually apart. NB: Whilst spreading the wings, particularly when the glider is standing on its
A frame, it is essential that the leading edges and keel are kept in the same plane. This is to avoid
distortion to the nose plates or any other components.)
4. Take care to place the tips on a piece of ground that is not likely to cause them damage. Leave the tip
socks on as this will protect them. The glider should now be standing on its A frame, wing tips and
keel.
5. Making sure that the wires are not kinked, attach the nose swan catch, pip pin and safety washer.
6. Make sure the inner washout rods are out and sitting under the span-wise battens. The inner washout
rods will automatically come out as they are attached to the sail but can be helped by lifting them.
Never detach them from the sail as you may forget to re-attach them.)
7. Lay the battens on the ground and pair them up, red with green, and check that corresponding batten
pairs have the same profile. This is a good habit to get into as it will reduce the chances of taking off
on a glider with a turn caused by asymmetric shaped battens. Periodically all the battens should be
checked against the batten profile.)
8. Put the curved battens in their pockets working from the centre chord towards the tip. Keep the trailing
edge low and slowly ease the battens into their respective pockets. Check again that the inner washout
rods are under the span-wise battens. Do not put in the last four battens or compression strut. Leave
the tip socks on.
9. Make sure you have opened the wing as far as possible. Check that the inner washout rods are under
the span-wise battens. Tensioning the glider is made much easier with the help of a friend. Get him or
her to lift a wing tip, thus opening the wings out further. Tensioning is then easy.
10. Take off the tip socks open the zip at the tip and fold out the outer washout rod. The last few battens
can then be inserted into their pockets.
11. Next insert the compression struts and locate them on their plastic bracket on the leading edge. These
compression struts, are bent and should be profiled correctly and put in the right way up. Like all the
other battens the curve should be up. The top surface of the wing should be convex NOT concave.)
12. Push all the battens fully home. With a new sail the battens may not go fully home unless pushed.)
Then put on the batten elastics; double on each batten.
13. If not already in place, insert the nose batten and locate it on its seat just in front of the nose plate
Some pilots only remove the nose batten occasionally to check its profile.). This operation is easier if
the VB. is pulled on first. When the batten is in place release the VB. On the ground releasing the
VB. may require pulling the cross tubes forwards in the sail.)
14. The under surface battens are more easily inserted once the glider has been tensioned. They should be
pushed home so that only the rope projects from the batten pocket. Put the most outboard U/S batten
in first. The under surface battens can be pushed home with another under surface batten.
15. Double check that the nose catch is correctly attached and put the nose cone on.
The glider is now fully rigged and you should now make sure that you do a thorough pre-flight check
before you fly.
