Avian PUMA 13.5 User manual

PUMA 13.5

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
Owner's Manual
Puma 13.5:
Serial Number
......................
Before flying your glider please read this manual completely, check all your
battens against the batten profile (adjusting them if necessary) and do a
thorough pre flight check.
AVIAN LTD.
Stretfield
Bradwell
H pe Valley
S33 9JT
UK
Tel [phone]
E-mail: avian@hanggliding.c .uk
www.hanggliding.co.uk
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
2

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
Table of Contents
TABLE F FIGURES..........................................................................................................................................3
TABLES............................................................................................................................................................... 4
REVISI N HIST RY.........................................................................................................................................................4
SECTION 1: USING YOUR AIRCRAFT.....................................................................................................................5
INTR DUCTI N............................................................................................................................................... 5
RIGGING (QUICK GUIDE).............................................................................................................................................6
RIGGING THE PUMA......................................................................................................................................... 6
PRE-FLIGHT CHECK-LIST.............................................................................................................................. 10
FLYING THE PUMA.........................................................................................................................................12
P ST FLIGHT INSPECTI N............................................................................................................................13
DE-RIGGING..................................................................................................................................................... 13
VG (VARIABLE GE METRY).........................................................................................................................................15
VG MAINTENANCE........................................................................................................................................ 15
BATTENS AND BATTEN PR FILE.................................................................................................................. 16
TUNING INSTRUCTI NS................................................................................................................................17
MAINTENANCE............................................................................................................................................... 22
REPAIR.............................................................................................................................................................. 24
C MP NENT LIFE.......................................................................................................................................... 24
TRANSP RTATI N.......................................................................................................................................... 24
SH RT PACKING.............................................................................................................................................. 24
TRANSP RTATI N BY AIR............................................................................................................................. 26
ST RAGE......................................................................................................................................................... 26
TR UBLE SH TING.....................................................................................................................................27
WHAT SPARES SH ULD I TAKE N H LIDAY?...........................................................................................28
WNERSHIP..................................................................................................................................................... 29
SECTION 2: TECHNICAL DETAILS.......................................................................................................................30
SPECIFICATI NS............................................................................................................................................. 30
PERATING LIMITS........................................................................................................................................30
.........................................................................................................................................................................................31
RIGGING........................................................................................................................................................... 32
REC MMENDED C MP NENT LIFE............................................................................................................ 33
STANDARD FACT RY SETTINGS..................................................................................................................33
STANDARD BATTEN TENSI NS....................................................................................................................33
CHECKING VELCR LENGTHS.....................................................................................................................34
STANDARD TIP CAP SETTINGS.....................................................................................................................35
........................................................................................................................................................................... 35
CHECKING WASH UT....................................................................................................................................35
SECTION 3: ASSEMBLY DRAWINGS.....................................................................................................................38
N SE ASSEMBLY............................................................................................................................................ 38
T P F UPRIGHT ASSEMBLY......................................................................................................................... 39
CR SS TUBE CENTRE JUNCTI N.................................................................................................................40
CR SS TUBE LEADING EDGE JUNCTI N AND SIDE WIRE ATTACHMENT.............................................41
WASH UT R D ASSEMBLY (SPR GS).......................................................................................................... 42
TABLE OF FIGURES
FIGURE 1: TENSIONING THE GLIDER...................................................................................................................7
FIGURE 2: VG. TRAVEL SET-U ..............................................................................................................................16
FIGURE 3: MEASURING WASHOUT HEIGHT TO BATTEN.............................................................................19
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
3

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
FIGURE 4: CHECKING BATTEN TENSION..........................................................................................................21
FIGURE 5: HANG LOO RECOMMENDED STARTING OSITION...............................................................31
FIGURE 6: VELCRO TAB LENGTHS......................................................................................................................34
FIGURE 7: TI CA SETTINGS................................................................................................................................35
FIGURE 8: MEASURING WASHOUT HEIGHT TO BATTEN END...................................................................35
FIGURE 9: CHECKING WASHOUT HEIGHTS.....................................................................................................37
FIGURE 10: NOSE ASSEMBLY.................................................................................................................................38
FIGURE 11: RUBBER BACKED U RIGHTS TO FITTINGS............................................................................39
FIGURE 12: CROSS TUBE – LEADING EDGE JUNCTION................................................................................41
FIGURE 13: WASHOUT RODS AND WIRES..........................................................................................................42
TABLES
TABLE 1: RIGGING COLOUR CODING................................................................................................................32
TABLE 2: STANDARD BATTEN TENSIONS.........................................................................................................33
TABLE 3: VELCRO TAB LENGTHS........................................................................................................................34
Revision History
Revision Date Comments
01 13/07/18 First released issue.
02 16/09/18 Typos and clarifications on pages 23, 34, 35 and 36. General assembly drawing
added.
Please ensure you are looking at the latest Revision of this Handbook. You can download the latest version
from the website at www.hanggliding.co.uk or you can email [e-mail] to request the latest
version.
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
4

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
Section 1: Using your Aircraft
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on your purchase of an Avian Puma 13.5. The Puma 13.5 represents the state of the art in
high performance, kingpost-less design but with a kingpost! We hope that you will experience many hours of
safe and enjoyable flying on your new hang glider.
This manual is designed to help you get the most out of your Puma. Please read this manual completely
before flying, check all your battens against the batten profile (adjusting them if necessary) and do a
thorough pre-flight check including checking the operation of the VB.
Please make sure your first flight on your new glider is in perfect conditions from a site that you are familiar
with. If you are uncertain, or have any problems with your glider, DO NOT FLY. We have a section on
trouble shooting in this manual that features some of the more common problems that pilots have
encountered, and our recommended solutions. If you are still not sure contact your local dealer or the Avian
factory.
Please pass on this manual to the next owner of your Puma 13.5.
LEASE NOTE:
Avian Ltd does not have commercial product liability insurance.
Avian hang gliders are built using materials and fittings to the industry standard or better. Avian hang gliders
are subject to Avian quality control and testing prior to delivery to the customer.
nce possession of the glider passes to the customer, its maintenance and condition becomes the
responsibility of the owner or pilot. Any concerns or queries about the glider's subsequent airworthiness
MUST be referred back to the local dealer or the Avian factory.
Hang gliders must be:
stored correctly
treated with respect
checked before take off and after heavy landings
flown within their flight envelopes
regularly maintained
Failure to do any of these courts disaster.
Look after your aircraft!!
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
5

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
RIGGING (Quick Guide)
It is recommended that you read this manual in full before flying this aircraft. If you are fortunate you may
be shown how it flies and how to rig it in person by the previous owner or your Avian dealer.
For Rigging the main points to remember are:
1. Put the nose batten on its location before opening up the wings.
2. Put the battens in the sail but do not tension them.
3. Pull back the cross tube tension and put in the safety ring before tensioning the battens.
4. Gently push the battens fully home and then tension them.
5. Zip the washout rods in place.
6. Do a very careful and thorough pre flight check. (See this manual.)
RIGGING THE UMA
The glider can either be rigged flat on the ground, or with the glider supported on its control frame. The latter
should only be attempted in light wind conditions but is useful in confined spaces or where the terrain is
likely to cause soiling or damage to the sail.
Flat rigging
1. Lay the glider on the ground with the nose pointing into wind. Unzip the bag and roll the glider so it is
the right way up. Take the bag off. (If you tread on the inside of the bag any dirt that you get on it will be
transferred to the glider when you put the bag on later.)
2. Take off the glider ties and remove the battens from on top of the sail.
3. Place the nose batten on its location fitting at the front of the keel. (This is difficult to do when the glider
is fully rigged.)
4. Making sure that you do not lift the tip high above the ground (to ensure that you do not bend the nose
plates), move one wing out a little then the other. It is important to move both wings out slightly (the tip
less than 1m) before moving through larger arcs. (The reason for this is that the geometry of the cross
tubes does not allow one wing to be pulled out far without the other moving. If you do this when the
wings are nearly parallel the leverage you exert is very high. It is possible to put very high loads where
you might not at first imagine, bending the nose plates and worse.) Continue until both wings are about
three quarters of their maximum travel. If there is any resistance, stop and check to see what is causing
it. Free the problem before continuing. Do not attempt to force the wings apart. Lift the wing preferably
by the wing tip or by holding under the leading edge. (If you must use the sail hold it by the batten
pocket ends on the trailing edge. (To try and minimise trailing edge wear.)
5. Remove the tips socks and unroll the wing tip of the sail.
6. Put the bottom bar on and insert the two stainless pins from the back of the base bar and fit the safety
rings. PUT THE RINGS IN IMMEDIATELY. D N T LEAVE IT UNTIL LATER. Thread the VB
cord through the cleat on the base bar. Tie a 'stop' knot 5 cm from the end of the cord to prevent it being
lost up the upright.
7. Lay the battens on the ground and pair them up, red (for the left wing) with green (for the right wing),
and check that corresponding batten pairs have the same profile. This is a good habit to get into as it will
reduce the chances of taking off on a glider with a turn caused by asymmetric shaped battens.
(Periodically the battens should be checked against the batten profile and re-profiled if necessary. Do not
forget to check the nose batten.)
8. Insert the battens smoothly starting with the outer (No. 9) curved batten. Insert the batten in the batten
pocket second from the tip. (The outer-most pocket is for the compression strut which is inserted later in
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
6

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
the rigging sequence.) Insert the other battens working from the tip towards the centre root of the sail.
n a new glider a little silicon spray on the batten ends will help them slide in smoothly. Keeping the
trailing edge low and slowly easing the battens into their respective pockets will help increase batten
pocket and sail life. If the batten will not slide easily into the pocket, move the sail and try again. Do
not force the battens in as it may damage the batten pocket Do not tension the battens at this stage.
9. The glider can now be tensioned: First make sure the side wires are not caught around the battens. Then
remove the split ring from the special bolt located through the rear of the keel tube. Using the attached
cords initially and then holding the webbing, pull the cross tube restraint webbing back. Check that the
cords are not twisted. Locate the stainless tang over the stub of the bolt and slide into location closest to
the keel. Now take the rear top wire (from the kingpost), place tang onto bolt stub and replace the split
ring. PUT THE RING IN IMMEDIATELY. D N T LEAVE IT UNTIL LATER. If the tension feels
too tight stop and see what is causing the problem. D N T JUST F RCE IT. (Consult the trouble
shooting area of this manual for possible causes.)
Figure 1: Tensioning the glider
10. Push the battens home the last little bit. With a new sail the battens may need a little push to go fully
home. The batten ends can then be snapped closed. The snap battens all snap closed outwards. Do not
alter the tension of the snap batten ends by turning the fitting. (unless intentionally adjusting batten
tension, see tuning section)
11. The compression strut (batten No 10) nearest the wing tip can only be inserted when the glider has been
tensioned. It slides into its batten pocket and the front end locates on a plastic cleat on the leading edge.
This batten or compression strut is profiled on the Puma. Like all the other top surface battens the curve
should be up. (The top surface of the wing should be convex, not concave). Left and right compression
struts can be identified for the direction of the clippy end. All battens release inwards and snap closed
outwards (i.e. compression strut clippy ends should point the same way as all others)
12. The under surface battens should also be inserted when the glider is tensioned. They should be pushed
home so that only the rope projects from the batten pocket. Put the most outboard under surface batten
in first. The under surface battens can be pushed home with another under surface batten.
13. Lift the trailing edge of the sail near the tip and rotate the washout rods into position. Check that the
support wires are not rotated around the washout rods. Zip up the under-surface zips. When the zips are
fully done up the washout rods are prevented from folding back alongside the leading edge.
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
7

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
14. Please note the VB must be fully off. It should not be pulled on if the glider is laid flat on the ground.
To do so could over tension the side wires, bend the tangs, stretch the speed bar etc. The glider should be
stood on its control frame before operation of the VB is checked.
15. Make sure that the wires are not twisted, then stand the glider on its control frame and attach the swan
catch, pip pin and safety washer.
16. Make sure that the nose catch is correctly attached and then put the nose cone on.
Note: Never hook in nose catch without pip pin inserted, even as a temporary measure while
rigging, forgetting to insert the pip pin could have disastrous consequences!
17. If flying with wing tip fairing they should now be fitted: Put the tip inside the sail and attach the top
Velcro. Lift the trailing edge of the wing tip slightly until the under-surface is as tight as it will be in
flight. Velcro the lower surface to the tip fairing. When the trailing edge is released there may be some
looseness at the front of the under-surface at the tip. This looseness will disappear in flight. Check for
symmetry of fitting of both wing tip fairings.
18. The glider is now fully rigged. You should now make sure that you do a thorough pre-flight check before
you fly, making particular care that all undersurface zips (4 washout rods and central undersurface) are
closed.
19. We suggest that if there is significant wind that the glider is left flat on the ground, nose into wind and
securely weighted or tied down at the nose until you are ready to fly. In light winds the Puma may be left
standing on its 'A' frame tail into wind- but be wary of gusts of wind, thermals and dust devils. Keep a
close eye on it.
Rigging on the A-frame
1. This is useful in confined spaces or where the terrain is likely to cause soiling or damage to the sail.
2. Lay the glider on the ground. If there is any wind the nose should be pointing cross or down wind. Unzip
the bag and take off enough ties to remove the battens and assemble the A frame.
3. The nose batten should already be in the sail. Move its front end onto its plastic location at the front of
the keel.
4. Assemble the A frame. Put the bottom bar on and insert the two stainless pins from the back of the base
bar and fit the safety rings.PUT THE RINGS IN IMMEDIATELY. D N T LEAVE IT UNTIL
LATER. Thread the VB cord through cleat on the base bar. Tie a 'stop' knot 5cm from the end of the VB
cord.
5. Stand the glider on its A-frame. Take the bag and remaining ties off and remove the battens from the top
of the wing. Check that the glider is positioned correctly relative to any wind and that it can be secured in
its current location when fully rigged. (i.e. glider should be facing with 'back' to the wind)
6. Making sure that the wires are not kinked, attach the nose swan catch, pip pin and safety cap.
7. Remove the last of the ties and open the wings slightly. Walk the wings out to about three quarters of
their full extension. As before the wings should ideally be walked out together. If you are rigging by
yourself move alternate wings gradually apart.
lease note:
Whilst spreading the wings, particularly when the glider is standing on its A frame, it is essential that the
leading edges and keel are kept in the same plane. (This is to avoid distortion to the nose plates or any
other components.)
8. Take care to place the tips on a piece of ground that is not likely to cause them damage. Leave the tip
socks on as this will protect them. The glider should now be standing on its A frame, wing tips and keel.
9. Push the tip socks down the leading edge so some more of the sail is released but leave the sock at the
end to protect the sail.
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
8

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
10. Lay the battens on the ground and pair them up, red (for the left wing) with green (for the right wing),
and check that corresponding batten pairs have the same profile. This is a good habit to get into as it will
reduce the chances of taking off on a glider with a turn caused by asymmetric shaped battens.
(Periodically all the battens should be checked against the batten profile.)
11. Put the first 4 battens from the root in their pockets working from the centre cord towards the tip. Keep
the trailing edge low and slowly ease the battens into their respective pockets. Leave the tip socks on.
12. Make sure you have opened the wing as far as possible. Tensioning the glider is made easier with the
help of a friend. Get him or her to lift a wing tip, thus opening the wings out further. Tensioning is then
easy.
13. The glider can now be tensioned. Remove the split ring from the special bolt located through the rear of
the keel tube. Using the attached cords initially and then holding the webbing, pull the cross tube
restraint webbing back. Check that the cords are not twisted. Locate the stainless tang over the stub of
the bolt and slide into location closest to the keel. Now take the rear top wire (from the kingpost), place
tang onto bolt stub and replace the split ring. PUT THE RING IN IMMEDIATELY. D N T LEAVE
IT UNTIL LATER. If the tension feels too tight stop and see what is causing the problem. D N T
JUST F RCE IT. (Consult the trouble shooting area of this manual for possible causes. See Figure 1)
14. Take off the tip socks and unroll the sail. The last few battens can then be inserted in their pockets.
15. The compression strut (batten No. 10) nearest the wing tip can only be inserted when the glider has been
tensioned. It slides into its batten pocket and the front end locates on a plastic cleat on the leading edge.
This batten or compression strut is profiled on the Puma. Like all the other top surface battens the curve
should be up. (The top surface of the wing should be convex, not concave). Left and right compression
struts can be identified for the direction of the clippy end. All battens release inwards and snap closed
outwards (i.e. compression strut clippy ends should point the same way as all others)
16. Push the battens home the last little bit. With a new sail the battens may need a little push to go fully
home. The batten ends can then be snapped closed starting from the tip and working towards the root.
The snap battens all snap closed outwards. Do not alter the tension of the snap batten ends by turning the
fitting. (unless intentionally adjusting batten tension, see tuning section)
17. If not already in place, locate the nose batten on its seat just in front of the nose plate. (Some pilots only
remove the nose batten occasionally to check its profile.)
18. Lift the trailing edge of the sail near the tip and rotate the washout rods into position. Check that the
support wires are not caught around the washout rods. Zip up the under-surface zips. When the zips are
fully done up the washout rods are prevented from folding back alongside the leading edge.
19. The under surface battens are more easily inserted once the glider has been tensioned. They should be
pushed home so that only the rope projects from the batten pocket. Put the most outboard under surface
batten in first. The under surface battens can be pushed home with another under surface batten.
20. Double check that the nose catch is correctly attached and put the nose cone on.
Note: Never hook in nose catch without pip pin inserted, even as a temporary measure while
rigging, forgetting to insert the pip pin could have disastrous consequences!
21. If flying with wing tip fairing they should now be fitted: Put the tip inside the sail and attach the top
Velcro. Lift the trailing edge of the tip until the under-surface it tight as it will be in flight. Velcro the
lower surface to the tip fairing. When the trailing edge is released there will be some looseness at the
front of the under-surface at the tip. This looseness will disappear in flight.
22. The glider is now fully rigged and you should now make sure that you do a thorough pre-flight check
before you fly, making particular care that all undersurface zips (4 washout rods and central
undersurface) are closed.
RE-FLIGHT CHECK-LIST
Detailed pre-flight checks must be carried out during rigging. If your glider has travelled on an airline we
recommend an even more thorough check including getting inside the sail to check all the main tubing very
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
9

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
closely. Always use the same rigging and packing procedure which will help to eliminate mistakes. After
rigging, a pre-flight check should always be carried out. The following must be checked:
1. First stand back and have a good look at the glider. Have you missed anything really obvious like
forgetting to tension the glider or put the nose cone on. Does the glider look symmetrical? It should.
2. All tubes are straight and not dented. Any damage to carbon spars should be very closely inspected. A
small dent is very serious damage. (See: Error: Reference source not found page Error: Reference
source not found.)
3. Nose plates and A frame fittings K. All bolts, nuts and screws secure.
4. Check that all washout rods are deployed and correctly positioned under the span-wise battens.
5. Check that all sail seams are intact with no frayed stitching, particularly in high stress areas. (e.g. wing
tips, junction of keel pocket and sail etc.)
6. Check that the wing looks symmetrical with the correct shape. The battens should be correctly shaped
and undamaged. The washout should appear even on each wing. If not do not fly, find out why and
correct before flight. (See TR UBLE SH TING page 27.)
7. All nuts and bolts secure.
8. All quick release fittings secure:
Cross tube tensioner.
Nose catch (check the clevis pin and split ring as well).
Tip compression struts correctly located on the leading edge.
Quick pins and rings secure on bottom bar.
utboard leading edge section fully engaged. (Be especially vigilant if the L/E has been short
packed recently.)
9. Cross tube tensioner strop not frayed and twist free.
10. Batten tensions symmetrical on both sides of the glider.
11. Hang loops in good condition, connection to hang point pivot arm secure and pivot arm rotated
perpendicular to the keel.
12. Unzip the under surface and check the centre junction. With your fingers check that the cross tube centre
bolts are secure. Check that all webbing loops are in good condition. Sight down the cross tubes and
check they are undamaged.
13. Check the four nose plate bolts are secure.
14. Walking along the length of the leading edges feel with your fingers to check that they are free from
dents. Check that there is a similar leading edge curvature on both leading edges when looking down the
inside of the wing from the nose towards each wing tip.
15. Check through the inner washout rod zip to ensure that the wing wire and cross tube leading edge bolts
are secure. Looking the other way also check that the washout rod support wires are not twisted around
the washout rods. (If this is inadvertently done is will cause a bad turn.)
16. Check that the keel is straight. Check that the tensioning strop and top rear wire is secure, correctly fitted
and that the split ring is in place. As shown in the earlier diagram.
17. Check that the wires are undamaged. Look out for corrosion and fraying. Pay particular attention to
inspection of the side wires as, in normal flight, these are the most heavily loaded. INS ECT BOTH
ENDS: THE BASE BAR END AND THE CROSS TUBE JUNCTION END. REMEMBER: IF
IN DOUBT DO NOT FLY- RETURN YOUR GLIDER FOR A THOROUGH STRI DOWN.
18. Check operation of the VB: Pull the VB rope and check that it pulls on smoothly and releases. If it is
jammed check and release if caught. It may be necessary to unzip the centre zip and pull the cross tube
centre forwards to get the VB to release while on the ground.
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
10

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
19. Check that all zips are done up.
20. Check that all the quick release fasteners are secure. Pay particular attention to the base bar quick pins.
As the glider is moved and placed on the ground the safety rings in the base bar quick pins may contact
the ground. Long grass seems most likely to cause the problem but it is possible to remove the safety
ring from the pin. The problem is minimised if you put the pins in from the back of the base bar. (Thus
when the glider is sitting on its keel the head of the pin will contact the ground rather than the safety
ring.) Special attention should be given to checking quick release fasteners.
21. Finally have another look at the glider as a whole to check that it all looks good.
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
11

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
FLYING THE UMA
Please note the following is not meant to be an exhaustive flying manual but merely a brief note and should
be read with that in mind. It is recommended that your first flight on the Puma, is from a site you know well,
using your normal flying gear, in good weather conditions with good large landing fields. (Don't change more
than one thing at a time and be very careful on your first flight.)
Takeoff
Before takeoff make sure you've pre-flighted the glider, that you are clipped in and that you have performed a
hang check. Takeoff with the VB no more than ¼ on (unless Aerotowing). n takeoff the wings should be
held level with the nose slightly raised relative to the takeoff slope. A strong and committed takeoff run is
always recommended. Keep the angle of attack low until you are running fast. nce sufficient air speed has
been achieved increase the angle of attack gradually to takeoff. nce settled in flight, clear of the ground and
obstacles, move your hands, one at a time, to a comfortable position on the speed bar.
In Flight
The control in both pitch and roll is light and precise. Accordingly the glider should be flown with moderate
and precise inputs. The glider should not be flown too slow or in a semi-stalled condition as the roll response
becomes much slower. The glider should not be flown fast until clear of all obstacles. Coordinated turns
require a blend of roll and pitch.
Remember: if you get into a pilot induced osscilation, (PI ) slow down. Hang gliders are generally much
more directionally stable when flying slowly. If you want to fly fast pull some VB on first. This stiffens the
handling and makes PI much less likely. It also makes the pitch lighter (the bar easier to pull in)
The response of the glider at different VB settings and different speeds varies. It will probably take some
practise before you are able to fly the glider accurately at all speeds and VB settings. Practising this before
aerotowing the Puma 13.5 is very strongly recommended.
Stall
The Puma recovers quickly from stalls but will lose height doing so. A wing close to the stall becomes
difficult to control. For both these reasons the glider should be flown with sufficient airspeed close to the
ground, hill or any other aircraft or obstacles.
Spin
Flex wing hang gliders are generally resistant to spin. It is very unlikely that you will ever experience a spin
in normal flight (but see below, Flying with a wet glider). To recover from a spin pull the bar in and increase
speed BEF RE applying opposite bank.
Flying with a wet glider
D N T TEST Y UR NEW GLIDER IF IT IS WET. Wet gliders do not fly nearly as well as dry gliders.
This is because the water droplets on the leading edges disturb the airflow over the wing. The result is that
the glider does not perform so well and stalls at a much higher airspeed, so you will not be able to fly the
glider as slowly as if it were dry. You may also find that the glider stalls more easily, takes longer to recover
from a stall and is more prone to spinning.
If you get caught in the rain as the glider gets wetter you will notice the above effects increase. You will have
to fly faster to avoid stalling and should be especially careful when landing. We advise that, with a wet glider,
you fly with a lot of extra speed when doing any manoeuvres, near the ground or other aircraft.
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
12

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
Landing the Puma
The secret of a good landing is:
getting prepared for landing while you are still high,
good field selection,
followed by a precise approach with plenty of airspeed.
Always plan your landings from high up, check that the VG is no more than ¼ on (the Puma can be easily
landed with the VG in the range from fully off to a quarter on, personal pilot preference will determine the
precise setting) and make sure you can get your feet out of your harnesses well before landing. Check the
surrounding air for other aircraft preparing to land. Look and check that your approach and over-shoot path
have as few obstacles as possible. (Never choose to land immediately behind other gliders or obstacles but
land to one side; you'll make a lot more friends!)
OST FLIGHT INS ECTION
After landing, especially if heavily, the glider should be inspected as outlined in the pre-flight inspection.
DE-RIGGING
Remember good de-rigging and packing of your glider will dramatically increase its life.
De-rigging is largely the reverse of the assembly sequence:
De-rigging the glider flat
1. Lay the glider flat on the ground and into wind. Remove the wing tip fairings.
2. Unclip all the battens and remove the compression struts and under surface battens.
3. Unzip the washout rod zips and rotate the washout rods so that they are parallel with the leading
edges.
4. Release the cross tube tension and swing the wings in a few feet. Remove the remaining battens.
(Remove all the battens smoothly. Pulling battens out excessively quickly will increase wear of
batten ends and batten pockets)
5. Place the padding around the tension bolt.Bring the leading edges in further. Dismantle the 'A' frame.
Tie a 'stop' knot in the VB cord to prevent it being lost up the upright in transit. Attach the 'A' frame
padding around the bottom of upright castings. When packed the side wires should come out of the
top of this packing. All wires should be packed so they are not kinked.
6. The wing tips can then be brought together. Next the sail should be rolled and tucked inside the
leading edge. ne side can be rolled and retained with a tie and tip sock while the other is being
done.
7. The battens can be stowed at the front of the glider between the leading edges with the curves over
the nose section. The ties can then be placed round the glider holding the leading edges neatly
together. Place the glider bag over the glider and then turn the glider on its back.
8. Put the speed bar in its bag and place it in the sail near the wing tip. Any remaining ties should be
put around the glider. Tuck the nose cone under the tie near the nose of the glider.
9. Zip the bag up and store the glider dry, in a cool, dry and dark place.
De-rigging the glider upright on the keel
This is useful in confined spaces or where the terrain is likely to cause soiling or damage to the sail. It is
essentially the reverse of rigging the glider on the keel:
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
13

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
1. Put the glider keel down and tail into wind. Remove the wing tip fairings and under-surface battens.
Unclip all the battens and remove the compression struts.
2. Unzip the washout rod zips and rotate the washout rods so that they are parallel with the leading
edges.
3. Remove the outer 5 or 6 battens from each tip of the glider. Roll the tip of the sail and put on the tip
socks. (This is so that when the cross tube tension is released the tips are covered and protected on
the ground.)
4. Release the cross tube tension and move the wings in slightly.
5. Attach the tension bolt packing. The keel remains on the ground.
6. Remove the rest of the battens except the nose batten.
7. Remove nose cone.
8. Bring the wings closer together. Pull the sail between the leading edge and keel so that it is all above
the leading edge. Roll it carefully and tuck it inside the leading edge. ne side can be rolled and
retained with a tie and tip sock while the other is being done. The tip socks are long enough to
contain both washout rods.
9. Remove the nose batten if you intend to. Put all the battens into the batten bag. Release the nose
wires.
10. The battens can be stowed at the front of the glider between the leading edges with the curves over
the nose section. The ties can then be placed round the glider holding the leading edges neatly
together. Take off the ties holding the sail in place and put them around the whole glider in the
normal way.
11. Place the glider bag over the glider and then turn the glider on its back.
12. Dismantle the 'A' frame. Tie a 'stop' knot in the VB cord to prevent it being lost up the upright in
transit. Attach the 'A' frame padding which is located around the bottom of upright castings. When
packed the side wires should come smoothly out of the top of the packing and all wires should be
arranged with no kinks.
13. Put the speed bar into its bag and store in the sail near the wing tip. Any remaining ties should be put
around the glider. Tuck the nose cone under the tie near the nose of the glider.
14. Zip the bag up and store the glider dry, in a cool, dry and dark place.
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
14

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
VG (Variable geometry)
The variable geometry (VG sometimes called variable billow VB) is used to change the flying characteristics
of the glider while in flight. The Puma has a large travel VG and so the flying characteristics are significantly
altered by the use of the VG. Experienced pilots will constantly adjust the VG in flight (like racing drivers
constantly working up and down the gears in a race car) to match the conditions in which they are flying to
optimise their performance and handling.
As mentioned else where in this hand book, when the glider is rigged the VG cord should be threaded through
the cleat on the speed bar and knotted 5cm from the rope end. (This is a good habit to get into. The knot will
prevent the end of the VG cord being lost up the upright.)
For take off it is recommended that the VG is in the fully released position. (This is with very little cord
sticking from the upright.) In this position the glider is easiest to turn. (You may find with experience, and
especially if aero-towing, that you prefer to take off with some VG pulled on.)
In normal flight, it is easiest to fly with the VG fully released ( FF) although this gives the glider the lowest
performance. As VG is increased the performance progressively improves, however the roll gets
progressively stiffer, the pitch stability margin reduces and the tendency to enter a spin increases. If is
therefore important to always set the appropriate level of VG for the conditions. Low or no VG should be
used when in rough air or close to the ground. When flying in smoother air, at higher altitudes and further
from other pilots, higher VG settings will give better performance. When flying high in smooth thermals VG
settings greater than ½ may be used provided sufficient speed is used (see next paragraph), however always
be ready to release the VG if the going gets rough!
For flying fast or for best glide performance (for example, flying between thermals) use full VG. High VG
settings improve the performance of the glider (in terms of sink rate, glide angle and energy retention)
however also be aware that the roll rate of the glider is significantly reduced especially if flying slowly. When
flying with high VG settings it is better to fly the glider slightly faster than at low settings. This will help
overcome the reduction in roll response and also at higher VG settings the glider will perform better (both in
terms of sink rate and glide angle) at slightly higher speeds.
Do not use full VG near the ground, near other aircraft or near any other obstacle.
For flying slowly, near the ground, near other aircraft or other obstacles, in rough air or landing it is
recommended that the VG is close to the fully released position. VG off position will give the most effective
roll control.
When releasing the VG, do so in a smooth manner. Do not just pull the rope out of the cleat and let go. This
will give a needless shock loading to the airframe.
Different pilots fly with different styles and use the VG in different manners. Each pilot should experiment
with the VG to find how best to optimise for the conditions at all ranges of airspeed, for example in very
smooth weak lift (for example wave lift) when high and well clear of the ground and other gliders then a high
VG setting and lower speeds than previously mentioned will optimise the glider performance.
Always be thinking about the VG setting and be constantly adjusting to suit the conditions.
VG MAINTENANCE
Due to the design of the Puma VG, it should be smooth and easy to operate.
To keep it this way, make sure that the ropes are clean and not twisted. Remove grit or dirt from the upright
casting and replace the ropes if they show signs of wear. It is also important to keep the tension strop of the
glider untwisted.
Silicon spray is a useful lubricant which will help maintain easy operation of the VG Spray it both on the
keel in the area of movement of the cross tube junction and its webbing loops and on the VG pulleys in the
lower upright casting and inside the sail.
Pay special attention to VG cord routing when changing uprights. It is possible to miss route the cord
resulting in it becoming difficult to use.
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
15

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
VG Set-up
The VG on your glider should be factory set. However the ropes do stretch a little and it may be necessary to
adjust the ropes to retain full VG Travel.
Figure 2: VG. Travel set-up
NEVER ALTER YOUR GLIDER OR VG IN SUCH A WAY AS TO INCREASE THE MAXIMUM
TENSION OR REDUCE THE MINIMUM TENSION.
BATTENS AND BATTEN ROFILE
The Puma battens should be maintained in the correct profile. Failure to do this could result in adverse flying
characteristics. Batten profiles for all Avian gliders can be obtained from Avian Ltd. The correct profile
must be used on the appropriate glider.
Batten Material
The nose batten are made from 1/2" D 6082 aluminium alloy tubing.
All other battens are made from 10.6mm D 7075 aluminium alloy tubing.
6082 Alloy tubing is softer and easier to bend. 7075 alloy is harder, more difficult to bend and more brittle
but it holds its shape much better.
How often should your battens be checked?
At first check your battens regularly. This will give you some idea of how fast they are changing profile. The
Puma has 7075 battens which tend to hold their shape well. The nose is made from a softer 6082 alloy. 6082
battens tend to get harder, and hold their shape better, once they have been re-profiled a few times. n the
Puma the batten most likely to require re-profiling is the nose batten.
Don't forget: If you don't know how the glider has been treated while it is out of your care (for instance if it
has been sent by carrier or on an aeroplane) check the battens against the profile and do a very thorough pre-
flight check BEFORE flying.
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
16

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
Checking the profile
The best place to check the profile of your battens is at home on a flat surface. (It is very difficult to do on
the hill with no flat surfaces and the wind blowing the paper profile away.)
The printed profile should be rolled out flat and a book placed at either end to hold it down.
The battens can then be compared to the profile.
Place green (right) number 1 batten against number 1 profile. Place the front end of the batten against the
profile and check that it matches the profile along its whole length.
If it does not match the profile see where it deviates and adjust the batten accordingly in that area. (See
below.) Continue this process until the batten matches the profile. Then do the same for red number 1 batten.
Check that both number 1 battens are exactly the same shape. It is more important that the battens are
symmetrical than that they are a perfect copy of the profile. Asymmetrical battens could cause a turn in your
glider.
Move onto batten number 2 and so on until you have checked all the battens. Do not forget to check the
compression strut. Also check that the under surface battens are straight.
Nose batten
The nose batten profile should not be under-cambered but can be a little over-cambered. This is because the
cut of the sail will tend to flatten the batten if it is over-cambered. The objective with the nose batten is to get
the sail to fit tightly around the nose area.
Batten Profile
The batten profile is printed with the profile or shape that the battens should match. The profile is printed
and there may be a slight error in the length of the battens. (1-2%) Thus battens with shape at each end
should be aligned with the nearest end when checking the shape.
How to alter the shape of the batten
The objective is to get a smoothly curved batten but it is not quite as easy as it looks. It is very difficult to
bend the batten very close to its front end. Do not attempt to alter the profile over the first 3cm of the batten.
If your battens need profiling do the 6082 battens first as they are much softer.
To increase the curve in the batten hold the batten either side of where you want to increase the curve and run
the batten over your knee or leg exerting a gentle pressure. (It helps if you are wearing something slippery.)
Compare with the profile and repeat if necessary. Try to avoid point bends and make sure that the bends are
all in the same plane. (7075 is a hard aluminium alloy and extra care must be taken while profiling to avoid
broken battens.) To reduce the curve, do the opposite of the above either over your knee or preferably by
pressing on a flat surface. If you have a point bend try and remove it. Warm battens seem to be less likely to
snap while bending. Putting them on the radiator briefly at home before bending should help. (However
don’t get them too hot as this will destroy the hardness of the batten.)
Batten Tensions
See tuning below.
TUNING INSTRUCTIONS
It is important to remember that tuning a glider is in no way meant as a remedy for a damaged glider.
If your glider has been flying well and suddenly changes (e.g. after a heavy landing.) you should
thoroughly check your glider to find out what has been damaged. If you can’t find a problem take it
back to Avian and get the glider stripped down for a thorough inspection and all damage repaired.
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
17

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
Trim speed
The trim speed is adjustable by moving the hang loop forwards or backwards along the keel. Forward
movement will speed trim the glider faster, whilst rearward movement will slow it down. nly move the hang
point in small increments (one hole at a time). The factory starting setting for the position of the hang point is
shown in Figure 5 on Page 31. It is important to adjust your glider to a trim speed that is safely above stall
speed and comfortable for you. (Trim speed is usually in the region of 24 mph on the Puma 13.5 but
remember your ASI may be calibrated differently to ours and how the glider flies is the important thing not
exactly what your ASI reads.)
Tuning out turns
If your glider will not fly straight in still air without constant pilot input then it is said to have a ‘turn’. If the
glider will fly straight but is easier to turn one way than the other then it has a ‘slight turn’.
Both are annoying and it is worth tuning your glider to fly without any preference to turn in one direction. It
is useful to note when the turn is most noticeable. For example does it get worse with the VG on full?
If your glider previously flew straight then the most likely explanation for the turn is that you have miss-
rigged or damaged your glider. Check the glider carefully when de-rigging to see if you can see any
problems. A compression strut not tensioned on one side would give a bad turn for example. Check the glider
visually first. Standing in front of the glider, holding by the nose wires to hold the glider level look at the
shape of the washout on the wing tips. You should be able to see an equal area and shape of washout on each
wing. Check with and without VG on.
If a turn is detected on a correctly rigged glider, first check the battens. Check them against each other
(making sure that they are the same on both sides) and then against the profile. Next check that the batten
tension is the same on both sides of the glider. (See Battens). If there is still a turn check that the leading
edges are straight and undamaged.
If the glider has a turn with the VG on full but flies straight with the VG off. Then the turn is likely to be due
to washout rod set up. A slight turn that gets much worse with the VG on full is also likely to be due to
washout rod set up.
A slight turn that only gets slightly worse with VG on may be tuned out using the adjustable tip caps. You
will require one 5mm Allen key.
The black plastic tip caps are infinitely adjustable. They have a line marked on them and there is another
line marked on the leading edge. These references are used for initial assembly (See STANDARD TIP CAP
SETTINGS page 34). The line on the leading edge is the datum.
To loosen the cap so that it can be turned insert the Allen key and turn anti-clockwise a couple of turns. If
the cap of the Allen key starts to protrude give the key a sharp knock which will push the cap screw in. Do
not loosen too much. It should now be possible to turn the tip with a little effort (the tension of the sail is still
pulling the cap tight into the leading edge). When the tip is in the desired position re-tighten the Allen screw.
Do not over tighten it.
The washout should only be adjusted in small increments (1mm at a time). The total movement should NOT
exceed 10mm each side of the datum.
Which way to adjust the tip caps?
The wing that is lifting should have the washout increased (i.e. trailing edge lifted) while the wing dropping
should have the washout reduced (i.e. trailing edge lowered). Mark the leading edge with a pencil before
loosening the 5mm Allen screw so you know where you started. Make the adjustment and fly to check the
result. If large adjustments are required it is very likely that the glider is damaged in some other way and a
thorough examination or better still full strip-down inspection is recommended before further flight.
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
18

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
Washout at the tips
The washout at the tips can also be altered symmetrically, that is increase or reduce the washout on both
wings. nly small changes are needed and large changes are counterproductive. A small reduction in the
washout (2mm) will make the glider feel slightly lighter in pitch and show perhaps a slight increase in glide
performance. In smooth air the glider handling will probably appear much the same but if a wing is lifted it
will be more difficult to get down.
Movement in the opposite direction will have the opposite effect. However it should be emphasised that large
movements are not beneficial.
To check the ideal tip cap setting. The glider should be flown clear of the ground and all other aircraft with
the VG on. The under surface at the extreme tip of the sail should be just tight. (See Initial factory set up
STANDARD TIP CAP SETTINGS page 34.)
Washout rod adjustment
The washout in the wing of the Puma 13.5 provides pit h stability and should NEVER be redu ed beyond
the C of A lower limit. (See CHECKING WASH UT page 35.)
However sometimes the rod heights are not quite symmetrical and the glider has a turn. (If your glider had a
bad turn when you last flew it, but in previous flights flew straight it was probably miss rigged prior to your
last flight. See: pre-flight checks.)
A turn caused by washout rods tends to be much worse with the VG on full. It may be possible to see
asymmetry but it is best to check the batten profile, batten tension and the washout heights before changing
the washout rods. The glider will turn towards a high washout rod. (I.e. if a left washout rod is high the
glider will turn left.)
Figure 3: Measuring washout height to batten
Checking washout is outlined in the Technical Details section of this manual. (See page 35.) The easiest way
is to rig the glider flat on a very flat surface without the speed bar. Check that the washout rods are correctly
positioned. With the glider tensioned, but the VG fully FF, the heights of the batten ends can be checked.
(The nose of the glider should be flat on the ground. Make sure that nothing is lifting the keel front or rear
as this will effect the readings. (e.g. The glider may be balance on a zip slider.))
The heights of appropriate battens can be measured with a tape measure and recorded. Check the heights for
symmetry and with those in the technical details. Is the No 8 left batten the same as the No 8 right batten?
Due to the flexibility of the glider if you push the battens and washout rods down on one wing then the rods
will rise on the other side of the glider. Thus it is difficult to get precise symmetry and that is why an average
washout height of both sides is more relevant. A hang glider is fundamentally flexible so precision
measurements are difficult, it is a good idea to measure several times, pressing down the washout rod each
time. The glider should be laid as symmetrically as possible, for example the keel should be centred in its
pocket.
If the washout rod heights are within specification and appear roughly symmetrical but the glider still has a
turn, when flown, it is possible to alter the rods: Lower the rods on one side of the glider while increasing the
height on the other side of the glider by the same amount. In this way the average washout rod height
remains within limits.
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
19

Puma 13.5 Owner’s Manual
To alter the washout height the split ring should be removed from the clevis pin holding the red washout rod
adjuster in the inner end of the washout rod. The red section can then be turned on the gold eyebolt by ¼
turn increments and the clevis pin and split ring replaced. If the eyebolt is screwed out, making the washout
rod longer, then the rod is raised and visa versa. The opposite adjustment should then be carried out to the
corresponding rod on the opposite side of the glider.
Small adjustments like this are permitted provided that the rod height between left and right wing does not
differ by more than 20mm. After adjustment the sail should be pushed down on both sides to take up any
slack and the heights checked again. Make sure all the pins and split rings are replaced before packing the
glider. It is vital that the average height of both the inner washout rods and outer washout rods remain above
the lower limits given in the technical details section. (Lowering the rods below this limit is likely to make
the glider dangerous in pitch stability. D N T BE TEMPTED!)
Batten Tension
The tension pulled into the glider by the battens makes a noticeable difference to the handling of the glider.
(See STANDARD BATTEN TENSI NS page 33 for the factory set-up of batten tensions.) Asymmetry of
the tension particularly at the tip battens will result in a turn in the glider. (e.g. If the No 10 compression
strut is tighter on the right wing the glider will turn to the left.)
The Avian clip batten system was designed to give easy rigging and easy adjustment with maximum sail life.
However it should be noted that due to the easy over-centre nature of the clip it is possible to get extremely
high tensions in the battens. This should be avoided as it gives not advantage and is likely to cause sail
damage. Also note that a ‘tension’ of 2mm on a short batten is greater than one of 2mm on a long batten.
To check the batten tension the glider should be fully rigged with the VG on full.
Each batten is unclipped in turn to check the tension. The batten end should be re-clipped below the sail and
then viewed from above the check the tension. It is best to work symmetrically. I.e. get the tension the same
in both left and right batten number 1 then move to batten number 2 etc. To adjust the tension unclip the
batten and rotate one full turn. ne turn alters the tension by 1mm.
When you have the glider flying perfectly mark the battens at the end of the clip ends with an indelible pen.
Thus the batten tensions can easily be returned to standard should the tension on one become inadvertently
adjusted.
Other tuning should NOT be carried out without reference to Avian Ltd., or an approved dealer.
Puma 13.5 hand book-Rev-02
20