Avian JAVA COMP 150 Dacron User manual

JAVA COMP 150
Owner's Manual
BHPA certificate of airworthiness
numbers:
Ja a Comp 150 Dacron: 9804145
Ja a Comp 150 Race (Mylar / Matrix): 9804146
Serial Number
......................
Before flying your glider please read this manual completely, check all your
battens against the batten profile (adjusting them if necessary) and do a
thorough pre-flight check.
AVIA LTD.
Stretfield
Bradwell
Hope Valley
S33 9JT
UK

Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
Tel [phone]
Fax [phone]
E-mail a [e-mail]
www.hanggliding.co.uk
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
CO TE TS
INTRODUCTION.........................................................................3
PLEASE NOTE............................................................................3
OPERATING LIMITS..................................................................4
SPECIFICATIONS.......................................................................4
RIGGING THE JAVA COMP......................................................5
PRE-FLIGHT CHECKLIST.........................................................8
FLYING THE JAVA COMP ......................................................9
POST FLIGHT INSPECTION......................................................1
DE-RIGGING...............................................................................11
VB. (VARIABLE BILLOW)........................................................12
VB. MAINTAINANCE................................................................13
TUNING INSTRUCTIONS..........................................................13
BATTENS AND BATTEN PROFILE..........................................14
MAINTENANCE..........................................................................16
REPAIR........................................................................................18
RECOMMENDED COMPONENT LIFE.....................................18
TRANSPORTATION...................................................................18
SHORT PACKING.......................................................................19
TRANSPORTATION BY AIR.....................................................2
STORAGE....................................................................................21
TROUBLE SHOOTING...............................................................21
OWNERSHIP...............................................................................23
APPENDIX:
LOSING THE KINGPOST- THE DIFFERENCES......................25
ASSEMBLY DRAWINGS...........................................................27
CHECKING WASHOUT.............................................................3
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
I TRODUCTIO
Congratulations on your purchase of an Avian Java Comp. The Java Comp represents the state of the art in
high performance, kingpost-less design. We hope that you will experience many hours of safe and
enjoyable flying on your new hang glider.
This manual is designed to help you get the most out of your Java Comp. Please read this manual
completely before flying, check all your battens against the batten profile (adjusting them if necessary) and
do a thorough pre-flight check including checking the operation of the VB. This is especially important if
instruments are attached to the right hand (VB.) upright. (See page 12 'VB' and page 21 'Trouble
Shooting.')
Please make sure your first flight on your new glider is in perfect conditions from a site that you are
familiar with. If you are uncertain, or have any problems with your glider, DO NOT FLY. We have a
section on trouble shooting in this manual that features some of the more common problems that pilots
have encountered, and our recommended solutions. If you are still not sure contact your local dealer or the
Avian factory.
PLEASE OTE
Avian Ltd does not have commercial product liability insurance.
Avian hang gliders are built using materials and fittings to the industry standard or better. Avian hang
gliders are subject to Avian quality control and testing prior to delivery to the customer.
Once possession of the glider passes to the customer, its maintenance and condition becomes the
responsibility of the owner or pilot. Any concerns or queries about the glider's subsequent airworthiness
MUST be referred back to the local dealer or the Avian factory.
Hang gliders must be:
·stored correctly
·treated with respect
·checked before take off and after heavy landings
·flown within their flight envelopes
·regularly maintained
Failure to do any of these courts disaster.
Look after your aircraft!!
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
OPERATI G LIMITS
1. Minimum pilot rating: Advanced pilot.
2 Manoeuvres:
1. Aerobatic manoeuvres are not permitted.
2. Pitching the nose up or down more than 3 degrees from the
horizontal is not allowed.
3. Do not exceed more than 6 degrees of bank
4. Do not fly the glider inverted or backwards.
5. Do not fly with auxiliary power without factory approval.
6. Do not fly with more than one pilot
3. Hang Glider Payloads:
Pilot Clip in
Weight range Min Max.
11 Stone 15 ½ Stone
154 lbs. 218lbs
7 Kg 1 Kg
4. Hang oint osition Range ( itch trim)
The hang loop is attached straight to the keel and should be within the following range:
(Distances measured from the front of the keel without plastic bung)
Max. forward position 157 mm
Maximum rearwards position. 164 mm
SPECIFICATIO S
Wing span 32' 9" 1 m
Wing area 15 sq.ft 14 m2
Aspect ratio 7
Min sink rate 17 ft/min .86m/s
(wing loading = 1.4 lbs./ft2 6.8 kg/m2)
Max. L/D ratio 14
Speed range* 15 - 7 mph. 24 - 113 km/h
Max. speed (VNE turbulent air) 45mph 72km/h
Max speed (VNE smooth air) 7 mph 113km/h
Normal packed length 19' 4" 5.9m
Breakdown length 15' 2" 4.6m
Glider weight rigged 67 ½ lbs. 31 Kg
Glider weight in bag 74 lbs. 34 Kg
*Speeds measured using Davron 8 8 vario-ASI system.
VNE Velocity Never Exceed.
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
RIGGI G THE JAVA COMP
The glider can either be rigged flat on the ground, or with the glider supported on its control frame. The
latter should only be attempted in light wind conditions but is useful in confined spaces or where the
terrain is likely to cause soiling or damage to the sail.
Flat rigging
Lay the glider on the ground with the nose pointing into wind. Unzip the bag and roll the glider so it is the
right way up. Take the bag off. (If you tread on the inside of the bag any dirt that you get on it will be
transferred to the glider when you put the bag on later.)
Take the glider ties off and take the battens out from on top of the sail.
Making sure that you do not lift the tip high above the ground (to ensure that you do not bend the nose
plates), move one wing out a little then the other. Then move the other out a little. It is important to move
both wings out slightly (the tip less than 1m) before moving through larger arcs. (The reason for this is
that the geometry of the cross tubes does not allow one wing to be pulled out far without the other moving.
If you do this when the wings are nearly parallel leverage you exert is very high. It is possible to put very
high loads where you might not at first imagine, bending the nose plates and worse.) Continue until both
wings are about three quarters of their maximum travel. If there is any resistance check to see what is
causing it and free the problem before continuing. Do not attempt to force the wings apart. Lift the wing
preferably by the wing tip but if you must use the sail hold it by the batten pocket ends on the trailing
edge.
As you open out the wings, carefully open the area with the inner washout rods. Lift the rods from
alongside the leading edge over the cross tubes. Make sure that their ends are aligned under the span-wise
batten.
Put the bottom bar on and insert the two stainless pins from the back of the base bar and fit the safety
rings. PUT THE RINGS IN IMMEDIATELY. DO NOT LEAVE IT UNTIL LATER. Thread the VB. cord
through the cleat on the base bar. Tie a knot in the end of the cord.
Lay the battens on the ground and pair them up, red with green, and check that corresponding batten pairs
have the same profile. This is a good habit to get into as it will reduce the chances of taking off on a glider
with a turn caused by asymmetric shaped battens. (Periodically the battens should be checked against the
batten profile.)
Insert the battens smoothly starting with the first ‘normal’ batten in from the wing tip and working from
the tip towards the centre chord. Insert the batten in the second from the tip batten pocket. (The
compression strut is inserted later in the rigging sequence.) (On a new glider a little silicon spray on the
batten ends will help them slide in smoothly. Once again make sure the washout rods pass under the span-
wise battens.
Keeping the trailing edge low and slowly easing the battens into their respective pockets will help increase
sail life.
The glider can now be tensioned. Remove the split ring from the special bolt located through the rear of
the keel tube. Using the attached elastic cords, pull the cross tube restraint webbing back. Check that the
elastics are not twisted. Locate the stainless tang over the stub of the bolt and replace the split ring. If the
tension feels too tight stop and see what is causing the problem. DO NOT JUST FORCE IT. (Consult the
trouble shooting area of this manual for possible causes.)
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
Push the battens home the last little bit. With a new sail the battens may not go fully home unless pushed.
The batten elastics should be put on double on each batten. The batten nearest the wing tip can only be
inserted when the glider has been tensioned. It locates on a plastic cleat on the leading edge. This batten or
compression strut is profiled on the Java Comp. Like all the other top surface battens the curve should be
up. (The top surface of the wing should be convex, not concave).
11. The under surface battens should also be inserted when the glider is tensioned. They should be pushed
home so that only the rope projects from the batten pocket. Put the most outboard U/S batten in first. The
under surface battens can be pushed home with another under surface batten.
12. Put in the nose batten. This is easier with the VB. on full. Some people prefer to put the nose batten in
before the wings are moved out at all or to leave the nose batten in the glider when packed. (If you do this
don't forget to check its profile when you check the profile of the other battens.)
NB The VB. must not be pulled on if the glider is laid flat on the ground: doing so will twist the cross
tubes. The glider should be stood on its control frame first.
13. Make sure that the wires are not twisted, then stand the glider on its control frame and attach the swan
catch, pip pin and safety washer.
14. Make sure that the nose catch is correctly attached and then put the nose cone on.
15. The glider is now fully rigged. You should now make sure that you do a thorough pre-flight check
before you fly.
We suggest that if there is significant wind that the glider is left flat on the ground, nose into wind and
securely weighted or tied down at the nose until you are ready to fly. In light winds the Java Comp may be
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
left standing on its 'A' frame tail into wind- but be wary of gusts of wind, thermals and dust devils. Keep a
close eye on it.
Rigging on the A-frame
This is useful in confined spaces or where the terrain is likely to cause soiling or damage to the sail.
1. Lay the glider on the ground. If there is any wind the nose should be pointing cross or down wind.
Unzip the bag and take enough ties off to assemble the A frame. Assemble the A frame. Put the bottom
bar on and insert the two stainless pins from the back of the base bar and fit the safety rings. Put the rings
in immediately - do not leave it until later. Thread the VB. cord through cleat on the base bar. Tie a knot in
the end of the cord.
2. If the nose batten was left in the sail move it onto its location and then stand the glider on its A-frame.
Take the bag and remaining ties off and remove the battens from the top of the wing.
3. Open the wings slightly then walk the wings out to about three quarters of their full extension. As before
the wings should ideally be walked out together. If you are rigging by yourself move one wing a bit and
then move the other. NB: Whilst spreading the wings, particularly when the glider is standing on its A
frame, it is essential that the leading edges and keel are kept in the same plane. (This is to avoid distortion
to the nose plates or any other components.)
4. Take care to place the tips on a piece of ground that is not likely to cause them damage. Leave the tip
socks on as this will protect them. The glider should now be standing on its A frame, wing tips and keel.
5. Make sure the inner washout rods are out and sitting under the span-wise battens. (The inner washout
rods will automatically come out as they are attached to the sail but can be helped by lifting them. Never
detach them from the sail as you may forget to re-attach them.) Now making sure that the wires are not
kinked, attach the nose swan catch, pip pin and safety washer.
6. Lay the battens on the ground and pair them up, red with green, and check that corresponding batten
pairs have the same profile. This is a good habit to get into as it will reduce the chances of taking off on a
glider with a turn caused by asymmetric shaped battens. (Periodically the battens should be checked
against the batten profile)
7. Put the curved battens in their pockets working from the centre chord towards the tip. Keep the trailing
edge low and slowly ease the battens into their respective pockets. Check again that the inner washout
rods are under the span-wise battens. Do not put the last three or four battens each side in. Leave the tip
socks on.
8. Make sure you have opened the wing as far as possible. Check that the inner washout rods are under the
span-wise battens. Tensioning the glider is made much easier with the help of a friend. Get him or her to
lift a wing tip, thus opening the wings out further. Tensioning is then easy.
9. Take off the tip socks and put in the last battens near the tip. Push all the battens fully home. (With a
new sail the battens may not go fully home unless pushed.) The batten elastics should be put on double on
each batten.
1 . Putting your arm in the tip of the sail fold out the outer washout rods and lift the rear of the sail to
make sure they are correctly located.
11. Now insert the compression struts and locate them on their plastic cleat on the leading edge. (These
compression struts, are bent and should be profiled correctly and put in the right way up. Like all the other
battens the curve should be up. The top surface of the wing should be convex NOT concave.)
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
12. If not already in place, insert the nose batten and locate it on its seat just in front of the nose plate. This
operation is easier if the VB. is pulled on first. When the batten is in release the VB. (Some pilots only
remove the nose batten occasionally to check its profile.)
13. The under surface battens are more easily inserted once the glider has been tensioned. They should be
pushed home so that only the rope projects from the batten pocket. Put the most outboard U/S batten in
first. The under surface battens can be pushed home with another under surface batten.
14. Double check that the nose catch is correctly attached and put the nose cone on.
15. The glider is now fully rigged and you should now make sure that you do a thorough pre-flight check
before you fly.
PRE-FLIGHT CHECK-LIST
Detailed pre-flight checks must be carried out during assembly. Always use the same assembly and
packing procedure which will help to eliminate mistakes. After rigging a pre-flight check should always
be carried out. The following must be checked:
1. All tubes are straight and not dented. Any damage to carbon spars should be very closely inspected. A
small dent is very serious damage. (See section on carbon fibre.)
2. Cross-tube hinge, nose plates and A frame fittings OK. All bolts secure.
3. Check all washout rods are out and correctly positioned.
4. All sail seams intact with no frayed stitching, particularly
in high stress areas (e.g. wing tips, junction of keel pocket and sail etc.)
5. Battens correct shape and undamaged.
6. All nuts and bolts secure.
7. All quick release fittings secure:
(i) cross tube tensioner
(ii) nose catch (check the clevis pin and split ring as well)
(iii) tip battens correctly located on leading
(iv) quick pins and rings secure on bottom bar
(v) outboard leading edge section fully engaged. (Be especially vigilant if the L/E has been short
packed recently.)
8. Cross tube tensioner strop not frayed and twist free.
9. All zips done up.
1 . Batten elastics symmetrical on both sides of the glider. They should also be in good condition and
engaged over the batten ends.
11. Hang loops in good condition.
12. The glider is symmetrical when viewed from the front.
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
13. Unzip the under surface and check the centre junction. Check that the cross tube centre bolts are secure
and all webbing loops are in good condition. Sight down the cross tubes and check they are undamaged.
14. Check the four nose plate bolts are secure.
16. Walking along the length of the leading edges feel with your fingers to check that they are free from
dents. Check that there is a similar leading edge curvature when looking down the inside of the wing from
the nose to each wing tip.
17. Check through the sail inspection zip to ensure that the wing wire and cross tube leading edge bolts are
secure.
18. Check that the keel is straight and then check that the tensioning strap is secure, correctly fitted and
that the split ring is in place. As shown in the previous diagram.
19. Check that the wires are undamaged. Look out for corrosion and fraying. Pay particular attention to
inspection of the wing wires as, in normal flight, these are the most heavily loaded. INS ECT BOTH
ENDS: THE BASE BAR END AND THE CROSS TUBE JUNCTION END. REMEMBER: IF IN
DOUBT DO NOT FLY- RETURN YOUR GLIDER FOR A THOROUGH STRI -DOWN.
2 . Check operation of the VB. Pull the VB. rope and check that it pulls on smoothly and releases. If it is
jammed check and release if caught. If instruments are attached to the right hand upright it may interfere
with the VB. operation. The VB. cord runs down the rubber back of the right hand upright. Crushing the
rubber back impedes the movement of the cord. It may then be possible to pull the VB. but not to release
it. This is easily cured by inserting a length (3 cm) of batten material inside the rubber back of the upright.
(This stops the rubber back from being crushed.)
22. Finally check that all the quick release fasteners are secure. Pay particular attention to the base bar
quick pins. As the glider is moved and placed on the ground the safety rings in the base bar quick pins may
contact the ground. Long grass seems most likely to cause the problem but it is possible to remove the
safety ring from the pin. The problem is minimised if you put the pins in from the back of the base bar.
(Thus when the glider is sitting on its keel the head of the pin will contact the ground rather than the safety
ring.) Special attention should be given to checking quick release fasteners.
FLYI G THE JAVA COMP
Please note the following is not meant to be an exhaustive flying manual but merely a brief note and
should be read with that in mind.
Take off
Before take-off make sure you've pre-flighted the glider, that you are clipped in and that you have
performed a hang check. On take-off the wings should be held level with the nose slightly raised. A strong
and committed take off run is always recommended. Keep the angle of attack low until you are running
fast. Once sufficient air speed has been achieved increase the angle of attack gradually to take off. Once
settled in flight move your hands, one at a time, to a comfortable position on the base bar.
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
In Flight
The control in both pitch and roll is light and precise. Accordingly the glider should be flown with
moderate and precise inputs. The glider should not be flown too slow or in a semi-stalled condition as the
roll response becomes much slower.
Stall
The Java Comp recovers quickly from stalls but will lose height doing so. A wing close to the stall
becomes difficult to control. For both these reasons the glider should be flown with sufficient airspeed
close to the ground, hill or any other aircraft or obstacle.
Spin
Hang gliders are generally resistant to spin. It is very unlikely that you will ever experience a spin in
normal flight. To recover from a spin pull the bar in and increase speed BEFORE applying opposite bank.
Flying when wet
DO NOT TEST YOUR NEW GLIDER IF IT IS WET. Wet gliders do not fly nearly as well as dry
gliders. This is because the water droplets on the leading edges disturb the airflow over the wing. The
result is that the glider does not perform so well and stalls at a much higher airspeed, so you will not be
able to fly the glider as slowly as if it were dry. You may also find that the glider stalls more easily, takes
longer to recover from a stall and is more prone to spinning.
If you get caught in the rain as the glider gets wetter you will notice the above effects increase. You will
have to fly faster to avoid stalling and should be especially careful on landing. We advise that you fly with
a lot of excess speed when doing any manoeuvres near the ground or other aircraft with a wet glider.
Landing the Java Comp
The secret of a good landing is good field selection followed by a precise approach with plenty of airspeed.
Always plan your landings from high up, check that the VB. is in the fully released position and make sure
you can get your feet out of your harnesses well before landing. Check the surrounding air for other aircraft
preparing to land. Look and check that your approach and over-shoot path have as few obstacles as
possible. (Never choose to land immediately behind other gliders or obstacles but land to one side. You'll
make a lot more friends on the hill!)
POST FLIGHT I SPECTIO
After landing, especially if heavily, the glider should be inspected as outlined in the pre-flight inspection.
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
DE-RIGGI G
De-rigging is largely the reverse of the assembly sequence:
De-rigging the glider flat
1. Lay the glider flat on the ground and into wind. Remove the under-surface battens and the tip battens
(or compression struts). Remove the nose batten before releasing the cross tube tension. (If you intend
to remove it from the sail.) Putting your arm into the wing release the tip washout rod and fold it
alongside the leading edge attaching it to the Velcro. THIS OPERATION MUST BE DONE
BEFORE RELEASING THE TENSION AS IT CAN NOT BE DONE LATER.
2. Release the cross tube tension and swing the wings in a few feet. Remove the other battens.
The wings can then be closed further.
3. Place the padding around the tension bolt. Bring the leading edges in further lifting the inner washout
rods and helping them lie alongside the leading edges. Dismantle the 'A' frame. Attach the 'A' frame
padding around the bottom of upright castings. When packed the side wires should come out of the top of
this packing and should not be kinked.
4. The wing tips can then be brought together. Next the sail should be rolled and tucked inside the Mylar
of the leading edge. One side can be rolled and retained with a tie and tip sock while the other is being
done.
5. The battens can be stowed at the front of the glider between the leading edges with the curves over the
nose section. The ties can then be placed round the glider holding the leading edges neatly together. Place
the glider bag over the glider and then turn the glider on its back.
6. Put the speed bar in its bag and place it in the sail near the wing tip. Any remaining ties should be put
around the glider. Tuck the nose cone under the tie near the nose of the glider.
7. Zip the bag up and store the glider dry in a cool dry and dark place.
De-rigging the glider upright on the keel
This is useful in confined spaces or where the terrain is likely to cause soiling or damage to the sail. It is
essentially the reverse of rigging the glider on the keel:
1. Put the glider keel down and tail into wind. Remove the under-surface battens. Loosen all the batten
elastics and remove the tip battens (or compression struts).
2. Put your arm in the sail tip and remove the outer washout rod lie it inboard against the leading edge
and stick it to the leading edge using the Velcro. (This will keep it in place and stop it popping out
again. NOTE THIS MUST BE DONE AT THIS STAGE AS IT CAN NOT BE DONE LATER IN
THE DE-RIGGING SEQUENCE.)
3.With the glider still tensioned remove the outer battens, say 2 or 3 per side. Roll the wing tips and put
on the tip socks before releasing the tension. (This keeps the tips covered and protects them.)
4. Release the X tube tension and move the wings in slightly. Attach the tension bolt packing. The keel
remains on the ground.
5. Remove the rest of the battens except the nose batten.
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
6. Remove nose cone and release the lower nose wires.
8. Bring the wings closer together making sure to lift the inner washout rods to lie them alongside the
leading edges. Pull the sail between the leading edge and keel so that it is all above the leading edge. Roll
it carefully and tuck it inside the leading edge. One side can be rolled and retained with a tie and tip sock
while the other is being done.
9. Remove the nose batten if you intend to. Put all the battens into their batten bag.
1 . The battens can be stowed at the front of the glider between the leading edges with the curves over the
nose section. The ties can then be placed round the glider holding the leading edges neatly together. Take
off the ties holding the sail in place and put them around the whole glider in the normal way.
11. Place the glider bag over the glider and then turn the glider on its back.
12. Dismantle the 'A' frame. Attach the 'A' frame padding which is located around the bottom of upright
castings. When packed the side wires should come smoothly out of the top of the packing.
13. Put the speed bar into its bag and store in the sail near the wing tip. Any remaining ties should be put
around the glider. Tuck the nose cone under the tie near the nose of the glider.
14. Zip the bag up and store the glider dry in a cool dry dark place.
VB. (VARIABLE BILLOW)
The variable billow (VB. sometimes called variable geometry VG.) is used to change the flying
characteristics of the glider while in flight.
As mentioned else where in this hand book, when the glider is rigged the VB. cord should be threaded
through the cleat on the speed bar and knotted. (This is a good habit to get into. The knot will prevent the
end of the VB. cord being lost.)
If anything is attached to the right hand upright (the one down which the VB. cord runs) it could adversely
effect the operation of the VB. (See 'trouble shooting'.)
For take off it is recommended that the VB. is in the fully released position. (This is with very little cord
sticking from the upright.) In this position the glider is easiest to turn. (You may find with experience, and
especially if aero-towing, that you prefer to take off with a little VB. pulled on.)
In normal flight a little VB. (Say 7 cm of cord) might be pulled on. This will give a better sink rate with
little loss of handling.
For flying fast or for best glide performance (for example, flying between thermals) use full VB. With full
VB. be aware that the roll rate of the glider is significantly reduced especially if flying slowly. Do not use
full VB. near the ground, near other aircraft or near any other obstacle.
For flying near the ground, other aircraft, other obstacles, in rough air or landing it is recommended that
the VB. is in the fully released position. This position will give the most effective roll control.
Release the VB. in a smooth manner. Do not just pull the rope out of the cleat and let go. This will give a
needless shock loading to the airframe.
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
VB. MAI TE A CE
Due to the design of the Java Comp VB., its operation should be smooth and much easier than other hang
gliders.
To keep it this way, make sure that the ropes not twisted and clean. Remove grit or dirt from the upright
casting and replace the ropes if they show signs of wear. It is also important to keep the tension strop of
the glider untwisted.
VB. Set-up
The VB. on your glider should be factory set. However the ropes do stretch a little and it may be necessary
to adjust the ropes to retain full VB. Travel.
NEVER ALTER YOUR GLIDER OR VB. IN SUCH A WAY AS TO INCREASE THE
MAXIMUM TENSION OR REDUCE THE MINIMUM TENSION.
TU I G I STRUCTIO S
Trim speed
The trim speed is adjustable by moving the hang loop forwards or backwards along the keel. Forward
movement will speed trim the glider faster, whilst rearward movement will slow it down. Only move the
hang loops in small increments ½ inch maximum.
Turns
A turn in the Java Comp is unusual. If your glider previously flew straight then the most likely explanation
is that you have damaged your glider. If a turn is detected first check the battens. Check them against each
other (making sure that they are the same on both sides) and then against the profile. Next check that the
batten elastic tension is the same on both sides of the glider. If there is still a turn check that the leading
edges are straight and undamaged.
A slight turn may be tuned out using the tip adjusters: The black plastic caps have a small hole drilled as a
reference. This reference is lined up with the self-tapping screw for initial assembly. (This is the datum)
The self-tapping screw should be removed and the black plastic cap turned slightly. The wing that is lifting
should have the washout increased (i.e. trailing edge lifted) while the wing dropping should have the
washout reduced (i.e. trailing edge lowered). Mark the leading edge with a pen or pencil before removing
the self-tapping screw and ONLY ALTER THE WASHOUT AT THE TI IN SMALL
INCREMENTS. (MAXIMUM 3mm at a time.) The total movement should NOT exceed 1 mm each side
of the datum (the hole for the self tapping screw. DON'T FORGET TO RE LACE THE SELF-
TA ING SCREW.
Washout at the tips
The washout at the tips can also be altered symmetrically, that is increase or reduce the washout on both
wings. Only small changes are needed and large changes are counterproductive. A small reduction in the
washout (2-3mm) will make the glider feel slightly lighter in pitch and show perhaps a slight increase in
glide performance. In smooth air the glider handling will probably appear much the same but if a wing is
lifted it will be more difficult to get down.
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
Movement in the opposite direction will have the opposite effect. However it should be emphasised that
large movements are not beneficial.
To check the washout at the tips. The glider should be flown clear of the ground and all other aircraft with
the VB. on. The under surface at the extreme tip of the sail should be just tight.
Batten Bungees
The tension of these bungees does make a difference to the handling of the glider. (See Appendix for
batten numbering system.)
Battens number 1 and 2 can be relatively tight.
Batten number 9 can be relatively tight but increasing tightness reduces handling.
The compression strut should be tighter but increasing tightness reduces handling.
The rest should be of medium to light tension.
Other tuning should NOT be carried out without reference to Avian Ltd., or an approved dealer.
Washout
This is factory set and should not be altered by the pilot. It can be checked with reference to the appendix.
The batten profile should be checked then the glider should be rigged on a very flat surface without the
speed bar. With the glider tensioned but the VB fully off the heights can then be measured from the top of
the battens. The heights of the rods alone are for measurement without the sail. Damage to the leading
edge can alter washout heights. If your washout heights are below those specified the glider should not be
flown.
BATTE S A D BATTE PROFILE
The Java Comp battens should be maintained in the correct profile. Failure to do this could result in
adverse flying characteristics.
Batten Material
The nose batten and compression struts are made from 1/2" OD 6 82 aluminium alloy tubing.
All other battens are made from 1 .8mm OD 7 75 aluminium alloy tubing.
6 82 Alloy tubing is softer and easier to bend. 7 75 alloy is harder, more difficult to bend and more
brittle but it holds its shape much better.
How often should your battens be checked?
At first check your battens regularly. This will give you some idea of how fast they are changing profile.
The Java Comp has 7 75 battens which tend to hold their shape well. The nose and tip battens are made of
a softer 6 82 alloy. 6 82 battens tend to get harder, and hold their shape better, once they have been re-
profiled a few times. On the Java Comp the batten most likely to require re-profiling is the nose batten.
Don't forget: If you don't know how the glider has been treated while it is out of your care (for instance if it
has been sent by carrier or on an aeroplane) check the battens against the profile and do a very thorough
pre-flight check BEFORE flying.
Checking the profile
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
The best place to check the profile of your battens is at home on a flat surface. (It is very difficult to do on
the hill with no flat surfaces and the wind blowing the paper profile away.)
The printed profile should be rolled out flat and a book placed at either end to hold it down.
The battens can then be compared to the profile:
Place green (right) number 1 batten against number 1 profile. Place the front end of the batten against the
profile and check that it matches the profile along its whole length.
If it does not match the profile see where it deviates and adjust the batten accordingly in that area. (See
below.) Continue this process until the batten matches the profile. Then do the same for red number 1
batten. Check that both number 1 battens are exactly the same shape. It is more important that the battens
are symmetrical than that they are a perfect copy of the profile. Asymmetrical battens could cause a turn in
your glider.
Then move onto batten number 2 and so on until you have checked all the battens. Do not forget to check
the compression strut and that the under surface battens are straight.
Nose batten
The nose batten profile should not be under-cambered but can be a little over-cambered. This is because
the cut of the sail will tend to flatten the batten if it is over-cambered. The objective with the nose batten is
to get the sail to fit tightly around the nose area.
Batten rofile
The batten profile is printed with the profile or shape that the battens should match. The profile is printed
with a photocopier so there may be a slight error in the length of the battens. (1-2%) Thus battens with
shape at each end should be aligned with the nearest end when checking the shape.
Move the batten to the profile as shown above
How to alter the shape of the batten
The objective is to get a smoothly curved batten but it is not quite as easy as it looks. It is very difficult to
bend the batten very close to its front end. Do not attempt to alter the profile over the first 3-5cm of the
batten. If your battens need profiling do the 6 82 battens first as they are much softer.
To increase the curve in the batten hold the batten either side of where you want to increase the curve and
run the batten over your knee or leg exerting a gentle pressure. (It helps if you are wearing something
slippery.) Compare with the profile and repeat if necessary. Try to avoid point bends and make sure that
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
the bends are all in the same plane. (7 75 is a hard aluminium alloy and extra care must be taken while
profiling to avoid broken battens.) To reduce the curve, do the opposite of the above either over your knee
or preferably by pressing on a flat surface. If you have a point bend try and remove it.
MAI TE A CE
Annual strip down and factory inspection
Avian recommend that the Java Comp has a factory inspection every year or 1 flying hours which ever
is the sooner. This is a sensible precaution to take and is offered by Avian at special prices in the months
of January and February. An additional benefit of the strip down is that the latest upgrades can be fitted,
often for free.
General
Careful attention to the rigging and de-rigging sequences will reduce the risk of accidental damage.
Repairs should be undertaken by the Avian factory or an approved dealer using genuine Avian spares.
The correct storage of your glider will also greatly influence its life. The glider should always be stored:
·well packed
·completely dry
·well supported
·in a dark, cool and dry place.
Airframe Maintenance
Apart from damage caused by over stressing the glider i.e. crashing etc. the major wear and tear on the
glider happens in transit.
Aluminium Tubing
Care and consideration in de-rigging and transportation will pay dividends in airframe life. Damage to any
one of the structural members is serious and the only remedy is replacement. Insufficient care during
ground handling or transportation can lead to tube abrasion or indentation. The former accelerates fatigue
fracture and the latter reduces the strength of a component. Keep a regular watch for tell-tale hair-line
cracks, which are most likely to occur in high stress areas such as around bolt holes. If you bend, dent or
damage the tubular members in any way, seek immediate professional advice before flying again and have
replacement parts fitted.
Carbon Spars
Carbon fibre spars must be looked after carefully. Damage to them is likely to be much less obvious than
to a metal tube. Any visible damage could signify serious structural damage and should be inspected by
Avian before flight.
Fasteners
Any fastener (i.e. nuts bolts etc.) which is bent or shows signs of wear or corrosion should be replaced
immediately. Nyloc nuts should only be used ONCE. One clear thread of the bolt should stick out beyond
the end of the nyloc. Nuts should be tightened only so that they are snug. In most applications on a hang
glider the nut is only there to stop the bolt from falling out. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN NUTS AND
BOLTS. Over-tightening them can crush the tubes and damage the hang glider.
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
Rigging Cables
The main danger with the rigging lies in kinking the cable. This is usually caused by careless rigging and
de-rigging or by over tightening the bolts that attach the tangs to the airframe. (It should be possible to
swivel the tangs with light thumb pressure.) Once a cable has a kink the strands are damaged and
replacement is the only cure. The side cables are particularly important and should receive a frequent
detailed inspection. Check for cable damage along the length but the main failure area lies immediately
adjacent to the swaged fitting. Look carefully for signs of strand fracture at this position. Corrosion shows
itself as a white powdery deposit. Corrosion cannot be cured and the only answer, again, is replacement.
Even apparently undamaged rigging wires should be replaced every 2 hours.
Cross tube tensioner
The stitching on the cross tube tensioner is easy to see and should be inspected frequently. The rest of the
tensioner strop is hidden in the sail and keel pocket so that any damage is more difficult to see. Thus do
take time to inspect this thoroughly, particularly around the VB. Pulleys and the cross tube centre junction
leveller. If any damage to the strop is found (fraying, abrasions, cuts or wear to the stitching) the strop
should be changed before flying.
Wing fabric maintenance
Any cuts or tears at critical areas such as the trailing edge, sail fixing points or similar high load areas,
must be repaired at either the Avian factory or an Avian approved workshop. Small damage to panels,
leading edge covers etc., can be repaired with proprietary self adhesive tape. We define small damage as
abraded holes no more than 1 mm diameter and small cuts no longer than 15mm. Anything larger should
be inspected by Avian approved personnel.
Stitching Damage
Thread damage never gets better and eventually runs. If you abrade a seam or damage the stitching in any
way, have the damage repaired before it gets worse. Small, non load-bearing areas can often be repaired in
situ by the tedious but effective method of hand sewing back through the original stitch holes. Use a needle
and only the correct thread: available from Avian or a good sail maker.
Wing fabric cleaning
It is, without doubt, better to keep the wing clean than to try and clean it. Some dirt never comes off
completely. With a new glider avoid getting it dirty in the first place by careful rigging and de-rigging. If
you decide you do need to wash your wing, then select a dry day and have access to a good hose and clean
water supply. Never use bleaches, strong soaps or detergents. The soap residue can react with ultra violet
light and degrade the fabric. We recommend a very mild liquid soap (washing-up liquid) and a soft
sponge. Gently wash the fully rigged wing, frequently hosing clean. Copious amounts of clean water will
not harm the wing and can be very beneficial in removing sand and grit which may get trapped inside the
sail. (Usually in the nose or wing tip areas.) Removing stains from stitching is difficult. Resist the
temptation of scrubbing with a stiff brush as it might do more harm than good. Ensure that the wing is
completely dry before de-rigging and storing.
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
Battens
Battens form the wing shape and substantially influence the performance of the wing. They need treating
with care and, since they are subject to constant stress both during flight and rigging, they may lose their
shape. It is essential that they are checked against the template at frequent intervals and re-profiled if
necessary. (See Section: Battens and Batten profile.)
REPAIR
The Java Comp airframe is deceptively simple, but like all aircraft requires skilled and qualified attention.
We do not recommend self repair or re-assembly by other than Avian or Avian nominated repair agents.
No replacement parts should be fitted unless they are factory supplied and identified as such. When
ordering spares always quote your glider serial number (make a note of it if you have to replace your keel.
It should be recorded on the front of this manual). Bent aluminium tubes must never be straightened,
always replaced. Frayed cables and cables with damaged or twisted thimbles must always be replaced.
To help you identify components some of the main assemblies are shown in the appendix of this manual.
RECOMME DED COMPO E T LIFE
The safe working life of the structural components of the Java Comp is dictated by the environment in
which the aircraft is used and the care taken during day to day operations. Inspection, therefore, is an
essential tool in deciding the continued use of most components, particularly the sail. UV exposure
shortens the life of the sail, which is why it should not be left needlessly exposed to sunlight or any other
source of UV radiation.. Due to the nature of their material, construction and position within the structure,
certain components have a critical fatigue life and it is mandatory that these components are replaced
within the time stated below.
Cross Tubes 2 hours
Leading Edges 1 hours
Control frame / fittings 1 hours
Keel 1 hours
Rigging wires / Tension strop 2 hours
Factory inspection 1 hours or 1 year (See maintenance)
TRA SPORTATIO
The wing must always be transported inside its bag, well packed and with all the protective padding in
place. The zip on the bag can be placed down to prevent entry of rainwater. During transportation, or when
stored on slings, the wing must be supported at its centre and at two points not more than one metre from
each end. Supports should be padded and relative movement between glider and supports must be avoided
at all times. (If travelling abroad pay attention to the legal requirements for both glider overhang and
coloured flags etc.)
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Java Comp 150 Owner’s Manual
SHORT PACKI G
It is sometimes useful to short pack your glider especially for transportation by air. It is unusual to be
able to take the glider full length on an aeroplane and is always best to short pack it.
Tools:
You will need a large Philips (posi drive) screw driver and two 4mm Allen keys.
The Java Comp leading edge has been specially designed in two main sections, the inner (nose to out
board of the cross tube - leading edge junction) and the outer (tip section of the leading edge). These
sections can be separated for short packing- useful for transport overseas or storage.
Removal of the outer leading edge
The outer leading edge section slides inside the inner leading edge. It locates on a clevis pin which stops it
rotating. The outer section can be removed without removing the clevis pin. (THE CLEVIS PIN SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED ON ANY ACCOUNT). To take the outer section off:
1. Unzip the glider bag and remove the sail ties. Release the leading edge tension at the nose by
unscrewing the Philips self tapping screws at the nose. The sail can then be disconnected from the end
plugs using the two 4mm Allen keys.
2. The leading edge outer can now be pulled out. Before removing them mark them 'left' and 'right' with
a felt pen.
3. Remove the leading edges. Place a padded bag over the end of the inner leading edge. (To prevent
damage to the sail cause by the end of the inner leading edge.
4. Place a cylindrical object (Cardboard roll 4" diameter, roll of bubble wrap or plastic bottle etc.) along
side the sail and bend the tips round. (Take care not to crease the Mylar or damage the sail on the end
of the inner leading edge or by bending it round too sharply.)
5. Wrap and pack the leading edge outers so that they will not damage your sail.
Re-assembly of the glider
This is basically the reverse of removal of the leading edges:
1. Open the sail out and remove padding from the end of the inner leading edge.
2. Check the 5” lines on the inner ends of the outer leading edges. (These are marked with felt tip and
give visual confirmation that the leading edge is fully engaged.)
3. IMPORTANT: Check that you have your outer leading edges in the correct sides. (CHECK THE
MARKS THAT YOU PUT ON THEM) When the glider is rigged the location for the tip batten
should be on the top front of the leading edge, the washout rod should point up to the top surface of
the sail and the Philips self tapping screw should be facing backwards towards the trailing edge.
2