Bachmann Ivatt Mogul 2-6-0 User manual

Bachmann Ivatt Mogul 2-6-0 - Assembly instructions
Introduction and general notes
We have had been many requests to produce an add-on kit for the Bachmann Ivatt Mogul. We felt that
there we could make little or no improvement above the footplate because that part of the model is
excellent, but we could make a worthwhile improvement in the detail and running of the chassis.
This kit has overlays for use in 00, EM and 18.83 gauges; all parts are included to enable construction,
if required, for a sprung locomotive chassis (bearings for the chassis are not included) and sprung
tender chassis, although some modifications may be necessary for closer than scale frames and tight
curves, and to allow for over scale wheel flanges. The basic design/overlays follow the prototype as
closely as possible and therefore clearances in some cases are tight.
The design uses overlays with plasticard packing to achieve the correct chassis spacing (note- white
has been used for better illustration here).
The Bachmann chassis is 11mm wide, not including the boss around the axle slot.
The model depicted in the photographs is built to 18.83 standards and to pack out the chassis overlays
0.60” – 1.5mm white plasticard was used. The overall chassis width with overlays is 15.25mm plus
approximately 0.125mm for the etched rivets on the second overlay.
Brassmasters 1/8” bearings were used with the thicker boss to the outside, washers were used as
required there is little or no end float on the front driving axle. The remaining axles had approximately
0.5mm end float.
The model is built with 1/8” axles and a High Level HighFlier gearbox and 13.5mm x 26.5 mashima flat
can motor (available from Chris Gibbon-High Level Kits). Whilst it is perfectly alright to build the chassis
with the supplied motor and gearbox we felt we wanted to take the model to a stage further.
During construction, it was found that using the supplied etched springs the pick-ups on the Bachmann
keeper plate would no longer fit and new pick-ups had to be made. (See photo-pull rods fitted)
There are many options available to the modeller with this kit from a sprung chassis to fixed axles and
we recommend a careful study of your requirements before starting construction.
Alan Gibson produces a complete drop in wheel set; these come with a direct replacement 3mm axle
used by Bachmann. However also available from Alan Gibson is the correct driving wheel size (1/8”
axle) along with pony and tender wheels. Another option is Exactoscale 1/8” or 3mm bearings and
springs; these are not described here but with some minor modifications to the solid Bachmann chassis
will fit the chassis overlays.
Etchings
We have used nickel-silver throughout, since it is much easier than brass to solder and to paint. All
bends are on the half etch line except where otherwise stated.
Wherever possible we have included spares of some components to allow for those parts which
generally hide in the carpet.
Please remove all etched cusp from the parts to obtain a good fit and in some cases it is critical the
cusp is removed.
NOTE most rivets on this model are depicted by the use of half etch overlays, but some require
embossing from the rear. Although a rivet embossing tool may be used to form the push-through rivets
the variable spacing sometimes makes this a little difficult. We recommend resting the etch sheet on a
piece of lead flashing (available from builders merchants) or hardboard and embossing with a blunt
compass or needle.

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PLEASE READ BEFORE COMMENCING CONSTRUCTION
The instructions have been supplemented with photographs taken at the time of construction of the test
etches and although the test etch photographs may show some minor variations they do show the
construction of the model. One difference you may find is in the pony truck; in the design stage we
thought that the use of a standard Gibson 2mm axle may be of some benefit. However after building
both the Gibson and sprung wire version it was felt that the sprung wire version is easier to fit and there
was no benefit using the Gibson bearing. Modellers may wish to use the Gibson system and the
photographs are included in the instructions, but the bearings are not supplied and will have to be
sourced separately.
The test model was builtto 18.83 standards. If more free play is needed in 18.83 then the model will
have to be built with a reduced thickness of plasticard or use the thin boss side of the Brassmasters
bearing.Again in 18.83 standards the front crankpin needs to be reduced in thickness; in preference it
should be a recessed type as produced by Ultrascale.
Pony Truck
All the parts needed to complete the pony truck are contained together on the sheet containing the
coupling rods and valve gear. The pony truck is as near to scale as is possible and representsas near
as possible all the component parts. However dependent on scale and modifications made to the
chassis it may need to have some of the upper parts filed away in order to obtain the swing between
the chassis.
Whilst it may seem a bit awkward, due tothe fragile nature of the frame try and retain the pony truck
frame (1) in the complete etch for as long as possible and only release the parts as required.
Fold the bearing hornguides (2) and check for fit if using the Gibson bearing, locate the hornguide into
the recessed space at each edge of the frame. Note: the edge nearest the half-etch groove is to the
inside of the frame. Holes are in place for the Gibson round nuts and it may be necessary at a later
stage to remove the bottom part of the frame togive more spring movement. Fold up the spring guides
(ears) locating the spring holding plates (6) into the holes at the bottom of the guides, these are not
fixed yet and should be free to move. (See photo-bearing in place and ears turned back)
If not using bearings it is possible to solder small pieces of scrap etch or wire along the elongated slot
to give some additional support to the axle. (See photo-non bearing with packing)
Fold up the side wings for the frame, check the fit against the hornguide it does locate just inside the
hornguide and fix in place. (See photo-fitted with commercial bearings).
For non bearing assembly make and form the long springs
Long springs
There are holes in the etch to facilitate fitting of the springs. Another reference for the springs is
http://www.clag.org.uk/comet-pony.html - and here thanks must be given to Dave Holt whose idea it
was in the first place.
Fold up top plate (5) fold the front and back down, the channel at either ends fold back to form the
channel. Check fit of top plate it rests on top of the shoulders of the spring guides, when satisfied fix in
place.

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Original top plate no modifications
Top plate fitted
Included in the kit is a short length of coil wire with a centre core for all springs, this must be removed it
is difficult to remove in one go and has to be removed in small pieces. Cut a small length just a bit
larger than the upright spring length required and with enough core to grip with pliers and it will be able
to be drawn out of the coil. Trim coil to length and fix in place with a small piece of wire through the core
and holes in the top plate and spring holding plate.
The front and rear plates are identical (3)fold at the half etch lines, the half etch folds back on its self,
the round spring boss being on the inside. Again make the centre spring, small washers have been
included for either ends of the springs but in practice they were not that noticeable and were not used in
the test model. Fix the spring in place locating with again a small piece of wire. Fix in place the spring
unit, the elongated holes in the top plate and centre plate front/rear are aligned. Fit and fix in place the
packing piece (4) which is aligned with the top edge of the front/rear plate. Fit both front and rear plates.

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Front view long springs.
Cut-off guard irons on the pony truck if modelling a locomotive in early condition (see prototype notes).
If using the guard irons on the pony truck press out the rivets at the knuckle joint fold back at the half
etch line between the rivets and form the guard iron, reference can be made from original photographs
supplied.
Fold up rear pony truck bar and fold to shape, fit and fix “H” sectionplates (7) outside (8) inside and (9)
bracing arms. Washers have been supplied and will be used later to adjust and pack out the fixing on
the chassis.
H section
The pony truck is fixed back to the plastic keeper plate using the supplied washers or, having fitted new
pickups, the front of the keeper plate is cut-off and glued to the chassis.

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Removing body and components
Carefully remove all the parts from the chassis (See photo-below) the motor is clipped out of the plastic
frame; the motor mount is removed by removing the two screws and lifting out with the gears and
should be removed to prevent dirt entering the gears. The pcb.board should be removed after noting
the position of thecoloured wires on the keeper plate (if using). The screw to remove the valve chest is
deep in the recess and when the valve chest is removed the cylinders and motion plate can be
removed. Save all removed parts as some will need to be replaced later.
Side Frames
Check fit of the side frames against the body (10-11) after removing axle bosses and a small amount of
rivet detail underneath the cab floor and when satisfied mark out on the required thickness of plasticard
and cut out plasticard to shape ensuring a cut out for the bearings if using springs. Glue together (we
used super glue). Check again for fit against the chassis body and trim to obtain a snug fit. Note the
bottom edge of the new chassis sides do fall below the cast chassis.
Make up the coupling rods (26) there is a front back and middle but are not handed. They will be used
in setting up the chassis sides. Use the supplied bosses as required.
Whilst you may not think it necessary our model was fitted with securing pins through the chassis sides
and into the cast chassis using 12BA screws albeit secured scrap wire could be used. Locating holes
are provided in the first overlay for suitable points on the chassis.
Checking for fit Coupling rods set in jigs
Drilling coupling rods

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Plasticard cut out
Plasticard-hornguides cut out to clear bearings
If building the sprung version chassis, check the fit of the centre bearings and mark the position of each
bearing.
Offer up the chassis sides to the chassis block with centre bearings in position and axle or axle for non
bearing version and if using securing pins mark position of pins on the block. Drill and tap out the holes
and fit pins (not supplied).
Open up the full axle slots if using bearings, although it may be prudent to open up the actual slots for
the fixed bearing version. Although not necessary remove part of the rear chassis which allows a clear
view through the chassis as the prototype.
When satisfied with the fit, fix in place with glue and soldering the pins to the overlay. Clean up the
chassis sides and fit the remaining bearings using the coupling rods as guides.

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Temporary pins fitted in place
Removal of metal at rear
Pins in place-note deepening of axle slots
First overlay fitted and pins smoothed flat

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Both overlays fitted in place and final fitting of bearings
If not using the plastic keeper plate remove springs (15) from etch and note the small cut out at the on
the hanger this is to allow the sprung pick ups to pass the springs, the cut out can be enlarged whilst in
position on the chassis if necessary. Check fit of springs and fix into place. Adjust and temporarily fit
coupling rods in place.
Bearings and springs fitted

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Coupling rods fitted
Crankpin bushes Ultrascale Crankpin locked in place with u shaped wire
Whilst not absolutely necessary, remove part of the chassis block above the pony truck - this will allow
the pony truck greater freedom to move. A small piece of plasticard will be placed across the chassis to
rest on the pony truck and if required a small piece of wire can be fixed into the plasticard to slot into
the top of the pony truck.
Chassis scooped out at front

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Pony truck temporarily in place
Check fit of the top overlay (12-13) and (14) hornguide straps and fix in place.
In the model of our choice we elected to fit 1/8” axles and sprung bearings and it now requires the
Bachmann final drive gear to be reamed out to 1/8” this was done quite easily and no problems were
encountered keeping the reamer straight and square. At one stage the model was fitted with the
Bachmann motor and gearbox and performed well. However it was decided to take the model a stage
further and see if a commercial motor and gearbox configuration could be used. Shown in the
photographs is a High Level HighFlier gearbox and motor. It requires some metal to be removed from
the chassis block this was done just to give some more movement in the gearbox.
Since we had used theetched springs, pickups were made from spring wire and pcb sleeper strip (not
supplied)
High Level gearbox fitted

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Metal scooped out from under motor mount

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Small amount of metal removed from under the boiler
Sprung pickups

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Balance weights
Indications show that a small number of locomotives had rivets visible on the outside of the plate, if
required form the rivets on the balance weights. Also note the bevel where the plate meets the wheel
rim which needs to be formed if required. (22)
Brakes
The brake levers (17) are handed as are the brake shoes (18), fold up the brake hangers (16) forming
the rivets if required all bends are on the half etch line except the top and bottom fold which are against
the half etch line fold.
Drillout the chassis block for the brake hanger wire 0.7mm, due to the design of the solid chassis it is
possible to drill through the chassis for the front and rear brake hanger wire the centre wire is drilled
blind. To secure the front and rear wires apart from gluing small nuts (scrap box) were soldered to the
wire on the inside of the chassis to stop the wire from moving.
Please use the reference photographs on the CD of 43106 when forming the brakes. Use as little as
solder as possible on the brake faces,use the 16BA nuts and bolts supplied to secure the shoes to the
brake lever and if kept just slightly tight adjustment can be made to the shoes against the wheels when
the levers are fitted to the hangers.
Fit the pull rod (19-situated on the coupling rod/valve gear etch) rear pull rod (20) cross beams (21).
The long pull are folded over the beams and located with a small piece of wire, the rear pull rod is
jointed and the rear is fixed into the existing plastic support brackets. (If not using the full plastic keeper
plate cut the rear portion off the keeper plate and screw into the chassis leaving room to access the
body holding screw).
Brakes fitted

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Pull rods fitted
Valve Gear
It is not necessary to use all parts of the valve gear and parts can be used are at the discretion of the
modeler.
Make up the connecting rods (23) - again these are not handed but put the best side towards the
outside.
The model uses the existing crossheads, but an overlay is fitted to the outside. Remove the existing
connecting rod and clean up the outside face of the crosshead removing all detail, retain the thin
holding shim at the rear as this will be used when the crosshead is put back together. Fix the two part
crosshead arms (25) to the crosshead overlay (24) with 0.3mm wire. Glue the crosshead overlay to the
existing crosshead and re-assemble the connecting rod and crosshead using the 14BA nut and bolt and
retaining shim. Check the connecting rods work smoothly in the slide bars, it may be necessary to
slightly elongate the holes in the motion bracket for the slide bar to run parallel to the chassis. The gap
can be filled with a small wedge of plastic at a later stage.
Assemble the remainder of the valve gear (27-36), all joints are forked and retained with 0.45mm wire
except part (34) lifting arm, use a small piece of wire and file to a half round and fix between the raised
bosses, the link between the valve rod and the lifting arm is formed with the supplied brass pin at the
lower end and forked joint from the reversing rod lifting arm (35).
Points to note:
The simulated rolling bearing assembly (27-a-b-c) - the first part of the assembly is ‘a’, the second ‘b’
the hole in the centre should clear the rivet head and finally ‘c’ covers the rivet head.
The return crank (31-a-b-c) is screwed to the crankpin although some modelers may prefer to solder
the crank to the crankpin. Note etch ‘a’ the boss is face down towards the wheel, second is ‘b’ on top of
‘a’, ’c’ is on top of ‘b’ and is attached at the end to the valve rod only and when finally fitted a touch of
solder is used to retain in place on the main crank. If using a screwed return crank to increase the
amount of thread available a 14BA nut is soldered behind etch ‘a’ and reduced in thickness.
Packing pieces (37), small top, large lower, are supplied for the expansion links (30), there are two front
and two back overlays for each side. Before fitting to the fold down etch, place a rivet through the (large
hole, the rivet head should clear the hole reduce head if necessary) first overlay, the second or outer
overlay is then placed over the first (small hole) and fixed together then reduce the thickness of the rivet
head until it fits flush with the outer face of the fold down etch. It will be necessary to reduce slightly the
length of the rivet to squeeze the expansion link between the plastic expansion link brackets on the
motion bracket.
The reversing shaft brackets (36) there are several pieces for the centre of the bracket and the number
to be used can only be decided when assembling the bracket to align the various rods and links, also
provided are half etched end pieces to simulate the bolts holding the bracket. Again it may be
necessary to open up the hole in the motion bracket to fit the reversing shaft bracket.

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The valve spindle block (33) is formed from by folding back the small etch and using a piece of 0.7mm
wire.
Depending on the gauge modelled it may be necessary to put a small kink in the combining link (29) to
clear the crosshead face.
Temporary fit of valve gear
Cab Details
Cab doors (38) make two small ‘U’ shaped parts from 0.3mm the width of the ‘U’ shape being equal to
the width of the strapping on the cab doors. Fold back the strapping trapping the ‘U’ shaped wire, the

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wire ends should point away from the cab doors. Fix the ends of the wire to the cab door fixing plate
forming a hinge, repeat for the other side. Fix doors in place.
Cab floor and fall plates
Check fit of cab floor (40) to the inside of the cab. Fold back the strapping on the fall plates (41) again
trapping a piece of 0.30mm wire against the edges, locate the fall plates against the slots in the cab
floor and fix the wire in place against the cab floor edge.
Trim a small amount of metal away from the rear edge on cast floor to allow the hinges on the fall plates
to move.
Fix complete assembly to the cab.
Fall plate Rear edge trimmed for fall plate
Front chassis extension
Cut off the guard irons on the chassis extensions at the small fold (42) if not required. Fold down the
small fold at the half etch line and the step support plate and check fit against the chassis side and
behind the front buffer beam. Fix in place and fit the steps (43), the step with the bracket is fitted to the
top position; the bracket may need to be trimmed to fit flush against the chassis.
Front step and chassis overlay

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Tender
The tender chassis is sprung, but if required can be converted to three point suspension (no parts have
been supplied).
The chassis is internal to the frame and consists of a chassis with strengtheners, bearing guides and
bearings. New brake hangers and brakes have been supplied but do not have to be used. No pull rods
have been supplied and modification of the existing pull rods will have to be made if using new brakes
and hangers. The existing pull rods may require some modelling skills by drilling the ends of the cross
rods and inserting a piece of 0.45mm wire to fit the pull rods to the new brakes.
Tender Chassis - Sprung
Remove the bearing guides (44) and check the bearing fits snugly into the recess of the guide, it may
be necessary to open up the centre holes. The bearings were fixed to the guides on the test model.
Fold the tag at the top of the guide over a piece of 3-1/2” 0.30mm. spring wire on each of the guides;
ensure that the guide can slide freely along the wire. Remove the chassis frames (45) do not fold up
yet.
Fold back the legs (fold on the outside) at the axle box guides and using the bearing guides to ensure a
sliding fit between the legs and bearing guide fix legs into position. (Remove these legs if using a
compensated chassis) .
Carefully ‘fold in’ the spring wire guides and if necessary use a small amount of solder to strengthen the
fold but keeping the holes in the guides clear.
Fold down the chassis sides and front locating beam and for additional strength solder the folds when
satisfied the chassis flat and square.
Remove the bearing guides from the spring wire and insert the spring wire through the holes in the front
drag beam locating the bearing guides as the wire is pushed further into the chassis.Do not fix the
spring wire to the guides but bend ends to keep in position. Due to the fragile nature of the chassis at
this stage the bearing guides will not always stay in position, but when further components are added
the guides will retain their position.
Remove tender wheels and all surplus plastic from inside the tender frames except the locating peg for
the coupling bar, check the fit of the chassis inside the frames it has been designed to be a smooth fit
between the frames but does need a little juggling to ease the inner chassis up against the tail rods
from the front buffer stops.
Remove the inner chassis left and right (46 – 47), for the sprung chassis, with a piecing saw completely
remove the rear axle bearing hole support and axle guides from the chassis. (For the compensated
chassis fold back the axle guide doublers (fold on the outside) and bend the tag back to retain the axle).
Check fit of inner chassis (46-47) against the slots in the main chassis, 00 inside 18.83/EM on the
outside, fix in place spacers (48-49) for the required gauge. Finally fix in place stiffening spacer (50).
The chassis is now complete and wheels with pin point axles can be fitted, due to the inflexible nature
of the plastic outer frames in order to get the chassis to now fit into the outer frames a small amount of
metal needs to be removed from the back of the brass wasted bearing and a groove needs to be made
behind the axle box along with plastic being removed from the back of the axle box.
If required the brakes (51) and hangers (52) can now be fitted and modification of the plastic pull rods
made and re-installed within the chassis.
The kit includes n alternative variation of the sieve box (53) front (54) back. If required, to assemble
form a piece of 1mm wire in a ‘U’ shape, pass through from the front of the sieve box and secure at the
rear with the backing piece.
Steps
Please check photographs for the model being made because there are several variations of steps.

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Fold up the steps as required and when fitting in place remove a small amount of riveted plastic strip
from the frame sides where the steps will fit to achieve a snug fit against the frame side. Note the
straight leg and handing on the rear steps.
Build the ladder in the etch and when the rods have been fitted, remove and clean up excess wire and
the bracing pieces that are no longer required. Again using photographic evidence trim ladder to the
length required. On the long ladder the support legs are twisted through 90 degrees and fit flush against
the rear buffer beam.
Bend rear guard irons to shape.
Rear of axle boxes removed
Tender chassis

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Tender chassis with brake levers and sieve box removed
Tender chassis fitted with brake levers still fitted
Included in these instructions are photographs taken when building the model from the test etch.
Please check our web site http://www.brassmasters.co.uk for further photographs when we super-
detail the model with items from the scrap box.
Miscellaneous parts
14BA nut and bolt 3/8 inch x 2
16 BA nuts and bolts x 6
0.7mm brass wire x 12 inches
0.45mm brass wire x 6 inches
0.33mm brass wire x 8 inches
0.30mm spring wire x 8 inches
Coil wire x 4 inches
Waisted bearings x 6
Medium rivets x 6
Lace pin brass x 1

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Chassis etch
10 Right chassis overlay (first)
11 Left chassis overlay (first)
12 Right chassis overlay (top)
13 Left chassis overlay (top)
14 Hornguide brace
15 Springs
16 Brake hangers
17 Brake lever
18 Brake shoes
19 Pull rods
40 Cab floor
41 Cab fall plates
42 Front chassis extension & steps
43 Steps