BAR-BE-QUICK inStove BS1251 User manual

(revision 'a')
INSET SOLID FUEL
ROOMHEATER
FOR INSTALLATION IN
STANDARD BRITISH or IRISH
FIREPLACES CONFORMING TO
BS1251 & BS8303
INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
LEAVE THIS DOCUMENT WITH THE HOUSEHOLDER!
Intermittent burning solid fuel roomheater for installation in masonry
fireplace with a single dedicated chimney.
Wood logs Mineral fuel (Ancit)
Approx e iciency 50-60% 50-60%
Nominal Output 2.0kW 4.5kW
Minimum air space
around fire Back = 0mm, Sides + Top = 100mm
Minimum clearance to
combustible materials
Top: 400mm
All other faces: 250mm
Read these instructions! Use only recommended fuels!
This document, when completed by the installer, constitutes a 'Hearth Notice' for purposes of the England and Wales
Building Regulations 2000. It must be left with the householder and placed where it can easily be found.
APPLIANCE SERIAL NUMBER:
INSTALLED AT LOCATION:
BY:
SIGNED: DATE:
Who certifies that this installation is safe, has been demonstrated to the
householder, conforms with current building regulations and with these
instructions
Flue Draught measured
on commissioning:
Fuel used on
commissioning
TO FIND A QUALIFIED INSTALLER, FUEL SUPPLIER or CHIMNEY SWEEP, CONTACT:
UK: The Solid Fuel Association, 7 Swanwick Court, Alfreton, Derbyshire DE55 7AS Tel:[phone] www.solidfuel.co.uk
RoI: Irish Nationwide Fireplace Organisation, 162 Capel Street, Dublin 1 Tel:[phone] www.fireplace.ie
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INSTALLING a stove is a 'controlled service', the law expects that
it is either supervised by a qualified installer or that the building
inspector is informed. Check with your local authority.
ASBESTOS: Your stove does not contain any asbestos, but take
care to avoid disturbing asbestos in an old installation.
WEIGHT: Your stove is heavy - take great care when moving it
and ensure that the intended fireplace can support the weight-
consider fitting a load distributing plate.
YOUR CHIMNEY, by becoming warm, makes the gas inside it
rise, pulling fresh air into the stove to make it work. It must:
Generate a draught in use of at least 12Pa (0.05ins wg)
Be capable of withstanding the temperatures generated.
Be incapable of leaking fumes into the dwelling
This will commonly be achieved by it:
Being at least 5m high.
Terminating at least 1m above any roof ridge.
Having an internal cross-section not less than 0.018m² (eg
150mm dia) and never more than 0.14m² (eg 375 x 375mm)
Being free from even the slightest crack or source of leakage.
Having no bends sharper than 45º.
Being entirely free of obstructions and swept by a qualified
chimney sweep.
Being connected only to this one appliance.
Being of thick masonry or otherwise adequately insulated.
Conforming to local building regulations.
Special rules apply where the flue passes through timber, thatch or
other vulnerable materials- take specialist advice.
Although it is possible to access the chimney through the fire with
the throat plate removed, fit hatches to provide access if needed.
AIR SUPPLY: Your stove needs air to breathe - there must
be a permanent fresh air supply into the room in which it is
installed equal to about 550mm² (eg 23mm square). This can
often be provided by air naturally leaking into the building (it is
commonly accepted that this alone can suffice for appliances
<c5kW) but in any case of doubt, fit a purpose-made air vent. An
extractor fan, or another fuel-using appliance, even in a different
room, can remove this air.
LOCATION:
To prevent the risk of fire, the location into which your Instove
is fitted must always:
•Have no combustible materials (such as a wooden surround)
within 250mm of the stove sides or 400mm above
•Be made of materials able to continuously withstand 250ºC
•Have 100mm of free space around the stove front for air to
circulate.
Even outside these distances take care in locating vulnerable
materials such as wax (inc. candles and surface finishes) or paper
(inc. papers, cards, decorations or plasterboard)
CHIMNEY SWEEPING:
Although it is often possible to sweep the chimney through the fire
with the throat plate removed, consider fitting cleaning hatches to
provide access if needed.
FITTING TO FLUE PIPE OR LINERS
A round flue-pipe adaptor (A) is available to connect to the Instove to
standard 150mm flue pipe. The adaptor can be sealed to the pipe
or liner with fire cement before inserting the stove in its fireplace,
the adaptor is then screwed to the stove outlet from inside against
a bed of fire cement.
FITTING: THE 'ENGLISH' METHOD
The Instove can fit straight into a standard fireplace(Drawing 1)
conforming to BS1251 & BS8303, which will:
Have an opening width (A) of between 400 and 420mm,
An opening height (B) of between 540 and 560mm,
A flat area (C) extending 70mm around the opening
Have a heat-resistant hearth extending at least 300mm (D),
without obstructions to prevent the door opening.
(Where thin slabs of mineral material (marble, limestone etc) are
used to face a fireplace, we recommend using separate panels, as
shown, to allow for differential expansion.)
Referring to drawing 2, apply soft rope seal (a) to the back of the
in-room parts of the stove and push the stove in the fireplace
opening, ensuring that the rope (a) forms an absolutely airtight
seal against the fireplace. In some cases it may be necessary to
knock-out part of the old fireback (E).
Secure the stove with a screw into the hearth through the hole in
the base of the fire (c) and and two screws into the upper left and
upper right of the opening. It is not necessary to fill any small gap
behind the appliance – larger gaps can be filled with rubble,
vermiculite granules or mineral fibre.
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THIS APPLIANCE CAN PRODUCE POISONOUS
GASES. IT, AND ITS FIREPLACE CAN BECOME
EXTREMELY HOT
A fire-guard should be used if children or the infirm are
present. The installer is required to EXACTLY follow
these instructions and to completely comply with all
local, national and international standards.
Drawing 1:
Drawing 2:

CHECK THE INSTALLATION !
Once installed, light the fire, demonstrate it to the householder and
check that:
•It burns controllably and does not emit fumes to the room
•The route for gases from the stove to the chimney terminal is
completely airtight, unobstructed and able to be swept.
•The entire construction is of durable fireproof materials.
•The flue presents a draught in use of at least 12Pa
LIVING WITH YOUR STOVE
Every fuel, chimney and condition of use is different. Only
experience will show which are the best settings for you.
LIGHTING If lighting after a period of non-use, do check that the
flueways and chimney are completely clear. Empty the ashes.
Place two or three firelighters close together, or screwed-up paper
covered with dry sticks, at the back of the grate and light them.
When they are burning well gently fill the fire with dry fuel, close
the door and set the air control slides to the 'high' (right) position.
As soon as the fire is burning well, move the controls to the lowest
practical setting.
CONTROL How fast the fire burns
depends on how much air reaches the
fuel. The stove has two air controls,
one below the window ('primary' 1)
and one above ('airwash control' 2).
Move the slides to the right for highest
output, to the left for 'low'.
Our tests indicate highest efficiency
on wood with the primary control all
but closed and the airwash 2/3 open.
Anthracite works best with the
airwash closed and the primary 1/3
open. But the best settings will
depend on your fuel, air supply and
flue draught and can only be found from experience.
EMPTYING ASHES use the tool or handle or a glove to open the
door. Stir the fire with a poker and use the tool to lift out the
ashpan. Remember to let ash cool before disposing in plastic
sacks or dustbins. There is no need to empty every last speck, but
ash from mineral fuels should never be allowed to build up so that
it comes into contact with the underside of the grate.
CLEANING Wipe the stove body with a slightly damp cloth when
cool, don't use abrasives, metal polish or 'cream' cleansers as they
can scratch the surface. NEVER use aerosol sprays near the hot
fire – they can ignite.
KEEPING THE WINDOW CLEAN With most fuels the window will
require no cleaning other than an occasional wipe with a dry cloth.
Simply operating the stove for a few minutes at high output will
usually burn-off any deposits left by tarry or wet fuels. Severe
stains can be removed with a proprietary cleaner. After a period of
use tiny hairline cracks may appear on the window, this is not a
fault, but is characteristic of the toughest and most heat-resistant
material currently available. Reduce the risk of staining by using
only very dry fuel and having the airwash control always slightly
open.
OPENING THE DOOR This stove is designed to be operated only
with the door closed. Open the door very slowly to minimise fume
emission and prevent hot fuel falling out.
FUELS
There is no 'perfect' fuel, so we strongly recommend that you try a
selection of fuels (or mixtures) to find which suits you best. Do
avoid dusty materials like sawdust, they can burn far to violently.
SMOKE CONTROL: In certain areas special rules apply to reduce
smoke nuisance. Check with your local authority about what fuels
are permitted.
WOOD only emits as much carbon to the atmosphere as the tree
took in when growing, so wood is considered the 'carbon neutral'
fuel. When wood is cut down its cells are full of water. Burning
such wet or 'green' wood wastes heat in making steam and
produces flammable, acidic tars which will cling to, and rapidly
damage, your stove and chimney. Split logs will typically take two
years to become reasonably dry, round logs much longer. Cracks
in the ends, a hollow sound when tapped and bark falling away are
all signs that a log may be ready for use. The fine, white residue
produced when wood burns is not ash, but the remains of cell
walls which can burn if kept hot enough, so don't de-ash the fire
until absolutely necessary.
For best performance on wood, and always if low smoke emission
is expected:
•Split logs lengthways for drying
•Use logs no bigger than about 100mm x 250mm
•Ensure logs are absolutely dry (less than 20% moisture)
•Fill the stove criss-cross, so air can circulate between logs.
•Fill 'little and often'
•Always have the airwash control (2) at least a little open.
•When first lighting, or reviving a fire from embers, use only
very small, thin, dry, sticks.
JOINERY WASTE Dry wood offcuts will burn well, but don't expect
softwood waste to burn as cleanly or for as long as hardwood logs.
PEAT: Sod turf must be thoroughly dry. BNM peat briquettes are
approved for use in Smokeless Zones in the RoI.
LIGNITE (not smokeless) is a natural mineral, between peat and
coal. It lights easily and burns well, but produces much ash
HOUSECOAL or BITUMINOUS COAL (not smokeless) makes
lots of tarry smoke and large volumes of flammable gas which
make it difficult to control and risk explosions. Despite its low cost,
it rarely represents value for money. Don't use housecoal.
ANTHRACITE (Smokeless) is a natural hard, shiny form of coal.
Slow to light, it can burn for very long periods with great heat.
Despite its high price-per-bag it generally works out to be one of
the cheapest of all fuels. Use the 'small nuts' size.
COKE (Smokeless) is coal from which the smoke has been
removed. Sometimes difficult to light, it burns very cleanly.
BRIQUETTES Are compressed blocks of fuel, generally able to
burn for long periods and remarkable for their consistency.
'Homefire' and 'Phurnacite' are smokeless types while other
brands are made from lignite, peat or housecoal.
PETROLEUM COKE sold as 'Petcoke', 'Longbeach' and under
various proprietary names, is made from oil. Easy to light and to
control, its exceptional heat and lack of protective ash mean that it
MUST NOT be used unless mixed with another fuel. Grate and
liner life will be drastically reduced when using petroleum coke
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HOUSEHOLD WASTES Some plastics give off toxic fumes when
burned and remember that batteries and aerosols explode! The
stove is not an incinerator, so only ever use the recommended
fuels and NEVER use liquid fuels in any form.
SUMMER SHUT DOWN: Before a long period of non-use, empty
fuel and ash, remove the throat plate and leave all the air controls
open to allow ventilation to reduce condensation.
PROBLEMS?
Problems like those listed here are usually due to some difficulty
with the installation, chimney or fuels, so please check back
through this leaflet carefully. If necessary seek specialist advice.
POOR HEAT OUTPUT: A stove can heat a typical room of about
12m³ volume for each kW of output, so a 5kW model can heat up
to (12 x 5) 63m³, a room of about 5m square. The actual size
depends on the insulation and air-change ratio of the room. To
attempt to heat a larger room will result in excessive fuel
consumption and damaging overheating. Use the recommended
very dry fuels.
LACK OF CONTROLLABILITY Wood and some other fuels may
burn excessively until the gases in them have been used up. You
can reduce this effect by making sure that the fire is set to 'low' for
a while before refuelling and checking that the door seals fully. For
stoves with a Smoke Stop - adjust the heat output by how much
fuel you put on, as well as by using the controls. Check that the
door seals are sound.
DIFFICULTY BURNING FOR EXTENDED PERIODS If the fire
goes out with fuel still in the firebox, then this is probably because
too little air has been reaching it, try leaving the air controls open a
little more. Check that the door seals are sound and that there are
no cracks or gaps anywhere in the flue. For longest burning, we
recommend hard fuels such as anthracite.
CONDENSATION. Condensation onto cool stove surfaces can be
severe if fuel is in any way damp. Even an apparently dry 1 kg log
can hold 200 ml, a cupful, of water. Use only very dry fuel.
OVER-FIRING: It is possible to leave the fire too long with the
controls set too high leading to 'over firing', seen as glowing metal
parts, excessive chimney temperature and risk of parts failing or
chimney fires. Always set controls to the lowest practical setting.
SMOKE COMING INTO ROOM Fumes are poisonous- smoke
emission must NEVER be tolerated, causes might be:
INADEQUATE SEALS: Are all flue pipes and connectors
absolutely gas-tight? Check that an inset appliances is fully sealed
against the fireplace. Even the tiniest crack or gap can spoil the
draught.
BLOCKED THROAT PLATE: Has soot and ash can collected on
the 'throat plate' above the inner back part of the firebox? See the
'maintenance' section.
UNSUITABLE, BLOCKED OR UN-SWEPT CHIMNEY: The first
requirement for correct operation is a sound chimney. Check the
requirements earlier in this document and in any case of doubt
have the chimney professionally swept.
POOR AIR SUPPLY: Is there enough air? Lack of air to the fire is
a common cause of smoking and poor performance. Air supply
problems may be worse in certain wind conditions (often
incorrectly ascribed to 'downdraught', which is in fact very rare),
where air can be sucked out of the room. The answer is to fit an air
vent, as near to the fire as possible, facing into the usual wind
direction.
DOWNDRAUGHT: Wind can blow down a chimney if there is
something higher nearby such as a tree, hill or high building.
Fitting an anti-downdraught cowl to the chimney top can cure this.
Types which cannot be swept through are not recommended.
POOR CHIMNEY DRAUGHT- Chimney draught in use MUST beat
least 12Pa.
CHIMNEY FIRE: In the rare event of deposits inside the chimney
igniting (roaring sound + dense smoke and sparks from the
chimney) immediately close the door, shut all air controls and call
the fire brigade. Prevent fires by using very dry fuel and having
your chimney swept regularly.
MAINTENANCE
MONTHLY- With the fire cold, remove, clean and refit the throat
plate (or 'baffle plate') fitted below the flue outlet. Check that the
flue is clear and unblocked, and that the door seals are sound.
ANNUALLY- SWEEP THE CHIMNEY The entire length of the
chimney from stove to outlet should be swept annually, or more
often if smoky fuels are used.
NEW PARTS Your stove has been extensively tested for safety -
please don't try to modify it and always make sure to obtain
genuine spare parts.
Your stove generates VERY high temperatures. Eventually the
internal parts will require replacement (when you will be pleased to
discover that our parts are very much less expensive than other
makes). Help parts to last by:
•Using only recommend, very dry, fuels.
•Emptying the ash very regularly when using mineral fuel -
never allow it to touch the underside of the grate.
•Cleaning the throat plate regularly.
•Avoiding 'over-firing'
PARTS AND ACCESSORIES
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