BYOC Li'l Analog Chorus Kit Instruction Manual

Build Your Own Clone
Li’l Analog Chorus
Kit Instructions
Warranty:
BYOC, Inc. guarantees that your kit will be complete and that all parts and components
will arrive as described, functioning and free of defect. Soldering, clipping, cutting,
stripping, or using any of the components in any way voids this guarantee. BYOC, Inc.
guarantees that the instructions for your kit will be free of any majors errors that would
cause you to permanently damage any components in your kit, but does not guarantee
that the instructions will be free of typos or minor errors. BYOC, Inc. does not warranty
the completed pedal as a whole functioning unit, nor do we warranty any of the
individual parts once they have been used. If you have a component that is used, but feel
it was defective prior to you using it, we reserve the right to determine whether or not the
component was faulty upon arrival. Please direct all warranty issues to:
[email protected] This would include any missing parts issues.
Return:
BYOC, Inc. accepts returns and exchanges on all products for any reason, as long as they
are unused. We do not accept partial kit returns. Returns and exchanges are for the full
purchase price less the cost of shipping and/or any promotional pricing. Return shipping
is the customer’s responsibility. This responsibility not only includes the cost of
shipping, but accountability of deliver as well. Please contact
[email protected] to receive a return authorization before mailing.

Tech Support:
BYOC, Inc. makes no promises or guarantees that you will successfully complete your
kit in a satisfactory manor. Nor does BYOC, Inc. promise or guarantee that you will
receive any technical support. Purchasing a product from BYOC, Inc. does not entitle
you to any amount of technical support. BYOC, Inc. does not promise or guarantee that
any technical support you may receive will be able to resolve any or all issues you may
be experiencing.
That being said, we will do our best to help you as much as we can. Our philosophy at
BYOC is that we will help you only as much as you are willing to help yourself. We
have a wonderful and friendly DIY discussion forum with an entire section devoted to the
technical support and modifications of BYOC kits.
www.byocelectronics.com/board
When posting a tech support thread on the BYOC forum, please post it in the correct
lounge, and please title your thread appropriately. If everyone titles their threads
“HELP!” then it makes it impossible for the people who are helping you to keep track of
your progress. A very brief description of your specific problem will do. It will also
make it easier to see if someone else is having or has had the same problem as you. The
question you are about to ask may already be answered. Here is a list of things that you
should include in the body of your tech support thread:
1. A detailed explanation of what the problem is. (more than, “It doesn’t work, help”)
2. Pic of the topside of your PCB.
3. Pic of the underside of your PCB.
4. Pic that clearly shows your footswitch/jack wiring and the wires going to the PCB
5. A pic that clearly shows your wiring going from the PCB to the pots and any other
switches(only if your kit has non-PC mounted pots and switches)
6. Is bypass working?
7. Does the LED come on?
8. If you answered yes to 6 and 7, what does the pedal do when it is in the "on" position?
9. Battery or adapter (if battery, is it good? If adapter, what type?)
Also, please only post photos that are in focus.
Copyrights:
All material in this document is copyrighted 2016 by BYOC, Inc.

Li’l Analog Chorus Kit Instruction Index
Parts Checklist……………………………………….page 4
Populating the Circuit Board……………………….page 7
Enclosure Assembly………………………………...page 14
Wiring………………………………………………..page 18
Operation Overview………………………………...page 23
Schematic……………………………………………page 24
PCB Back Trace Photo……………………………..page 25

Parts Checklist for the Li’l Analog Chorus Kit
Resistors
1 - 47 Ohm/47 (Yellow/Purple/Black/Gold/Brown)
2 - 470 Ohm/471 (Yellow/Purple/Black/Black/Brown)
3 - 1k/102 (Brown/Black/Black/Brown/Brown)
2 - 4k7 /472 (Yellow/Purple/Black/Brown/Brown)
9 - 10k/103 (Brown/Black/Black/Red/Brown)
1 - 12k/123 (Brown/Red/Black/Red/Brown)
1 - 39k/393 (Orange/White/Black/Red/Brown)
1 - 47k/473 (Yellow/Purple/Black/Red/Brown)
1 - 56k/563 (Green/Blue/Black/Red/Brown)
1 - 68k/683 (Blue/Gray/Black/Red/Brown)
1 - 82k/823 (Gray/Red/Black/Red/Brown)
1 - 100k/104 (Brown/Black/Black/Orange/Brown)
1 - 120k/124 (Brown/Red/Black/Orange/Brown)
1 - 180k/184 (Black/Gray/Black/Orange/Brown)
1 - 330k/334 (Orange/Orange/Black/Orange/Brown)
3 - 470k/474 (Yellow/Purple/Black/Orange/Brown)
Visit www.byocelectronics.com/resistorcodes.pdf for more information on how to
differentiate resistors.
Capa ci tors:
1 - 100pF Ceramic Disc capacitor (round yellow with ‘101’ on the body)
1 - 150pF Ceramic Disc capacitor (round yellow with ‘151’ on the body)
2 - 560pF Ceramic Disc capacitor (round yellow with ‘561’ on the body)
2 - 4n7/.0047uF Film cap (May say “472” on the body)
2 - 10n/.01uF Film cap (May say “103” on the body)
2 - 15n/.015uF Film cap (May say “153” on the body)
1 - 22n/.022uF Film cap (May say ‘223’ on the body)
1 - 47n/.047uF Film cap (May say “473” on the body)
1 - 100n/.1uF Film cap (May say “104” on the body)
2 - 2.2uF Aluminum Electrolytic
3 - 10uF Aluminum Electrolytic
Visit www.byocelectronics.com/capcodes.pdf for more info on how to differentiate
capacitors.
Diodes:
1 - 1N4148
IC:
1 - MN3007 (Through-hole)
1-CD4047 (SMT)
1 - TL074 (SMT)
1 - LM358 (SMT)

Potentiometers: SNAP THE SMALL TABS ON THE TOP OF THE POTS OFF
WITH A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS
1 - B10k (DEPTH)
1 - C1M (RATE)
1 - 100k Trimpot
Ha r dwa re:
1 - predrilled enclosure w/ 4
s c r e ws
1 - Li’l Analog Chorus
PC B
1 - 3pdt
footsw itc h
2 - enclosed
Jacks
4 - rubber
bump e rs
2 - lock washers (for in and out
jac ks)
hook-up
w i r e

Your build should look similar to this when you’re finished.

Populating the Circuit Board
Step 1: Add the TL074, LM358, and CD4047 chips. This is a very delicate procedure.
Be sure you line up the pins as exact as you can. Be sure to look very closely at the solder
connections as you go along to be sure there are no contacts shorting against each other.
Installation note: If you decided to add the SMD chips yourself, you will want to pay
attention to the orientation of the chips. The PCB has the orientation indicated; the yellow
outlined pad is pin 1. Look at your chips and there will be an orientation indicator; the
indicator could be a dot, a u-shaped notch, or a solid line running from the first pin to the
last. If there is both a dot and a u-shaped notch, use the u-shaped notch. If you are not
sure, don’t add the chip, head to the forum http://byocelectronics.com/board and make
sure. Once the SMD chips are mounted, they are incredibly difficult to remove.

Step 2: Add all the resistors. Resistors are not polarized and can be inserted in either
direction.

Step 3: Add the diode. Be sure to match the end of the diode with the stripe to the
layout on the PCB. The striped end should go in the square solder pad.

Step 4: Add the through-hole IC. Be sure to orient it correctly. There may be a notch on
the IC between pins 1 and 8. Line that up with the screenprint on the PCB. If your IC
does not have a notch, look for a dot to indicate pin 1. Pin one on the PCB will be a
square hole.

Step 5: Add the trimpot. There are five holes on the PCB, but your trimpot will only use
three of them.
How to set the trimpot: After you finish your build, you will need to adjust the trimpot
until you get the best chorus sound possible. First, set the trimpot to the middle of its
rotation, and make slight adjustments until you hear the chorus effect. There will be a
part of the sweep that will allow you to hear the chorus effect; within that window is
where you want to set your trimpot. Use your ears to find the ‘sweet spot’.

Step 6: Add the film and ceramic disc capacitors. These are non-polarized and can go in
either direction. The ceramic disc capacitors are highlighted in yellow.

Step 7: Add the aluminum electrolytic capacitors. These ARE polarized, meaning
there is a positive and negative end. The positive side will have a longer lead and goes in
the square solder pad. The negative side will have a shorter lead and a stripe running
along the body of the cap, and goes in the round solder pad. Before soldering, bend the
capacitor so it is laying down like below.

Enclosure Hardware
Assembly
Step 1: Mount the DC adapter jack.

Step 2: Mount the potentiometers. You will mount the right potentiometer
with the solder lugs facing towards the DC Jack, and the left potentiometer
with the solder lugs facing the footswitch as shown below.

Step 3: Mount the Audio Jacks. You want to orient them so that the SLEEVE
terminals (beveled corner of the jack) are facing away from each other. If
looking at the inside of the enclosure, the INPUT jack will have its sleeve
terminal facing towards the AC jack. The OUTPUT jack will have its sleeve
terminal facing towards the footswitch hole. The green arrows are pointing at
the sleeves.

Step 4: Remove both nuts from the footswitch and mount the footswitch.
Orient the footswitch so that the flat sides of the solder lugs are like the
diagram below.
NOTE: There are no actual number markings on the footswitch. There are
two correct ways you can orient the footswitch. They are both 180 degrees
of each other. Either way is fine. It does not matter as long as the flat sides
of the solder lugs are running horizontal, not vertical.

FOOT SWITCH SOLDER LUG DESIGNATIONS

Wiring
FLIP PCB OVER!!!

STEP 1: Wire the PCB as shown in the diagram below. Make all
connections to the back side of the PCB and solder on the top (screen
printed) side of the PCB. Make the wires as short as possible but allow
enough length so that if you need to do any trouble shooting later, you will
be able to do so without having to remove all the enclosure mounted
components.