BYOC Analog Vibrato Manual

Build Your Own Clone
Analog Vibrato
Kit Instructions
Warranty:
BYOC, Inc. guarantees that your kit will be complete and that all parts and components
will arrive as described, functioning and free of defect. Soldering, clipping, cutting,
stripping, or using any of the components in any way voids this guarantee. BYOC, INC
guarantees that the instructions for your kit will be free of any majors errors that would
cause you to permanently damage any components in your kit, but does not guarantee
that the instructions will be free of typos or minor errors. BYOC, INC does not
warranty the completed pedal as a whole functioning unit, nor do we warranty any of the
individual parts once they have been used. If you have a component that is used, but feel
it was defective prior to you using it, we reserve the right to determine whether or not the
component was faulty upon arrival. Please direct all warranty issues to:
[email protected] This would include any missing parts issues.
Return:
BYOC, Inc. accepts returns and exchanges on all products for any reason, as long as they
are unused. We do not accept partial kit returns. Returns and exchanges are for the full
purchase price less the cost of shipping and/or any promotional pricing. Return shipping
is the customer’s responsibility. This responsibility not only includes the cost of
shipping, but accountability of deliver as well. Please contact
[email protected] to receive a return authorization before mailing.
Tech Support:
BYOC, Inc. makes no promises or guarantees that you will successfully complete your
kit in a satisfactory manor. Nor does BYOC, Inc. promise or guarantee that you will
receive any technical support. Purchasing a product from BYOC, Inc. does not entitle

you to any amount of technical support. BYOC, Inc. does not promise or guarantee that
any technical support you may receive will be able to resolve any or all issues you may
be experiencing.
That being said, we will do our best to help you as much as we can. Our philosophy at
BYOC is that we will help you only as much as you are willing to help yourself. We
have a wonderful and friendly DIY discussion forum with an entire section devoted to the
technical support and modifications of BYOC kits.
www.byocelectronics.com/board
When posting a tech support thread on the BYOC forum, please post it in the correct
lounge, and please title your thread appropriately. If everyone titles their threads
“HELP!” then it makes it impossible for the people who are helping you to keep track of
your progress. A very brief description of your specific problem will do. It will also
make it easier to see if someone else is having or has had the same problem as you. The
question you are about to ask may already be answered. Here is a list of things that you
should include in the body of your tech support thread:
1. A detailed explanation of what the problem is. (more than, “It doesn’t work, help”)
2. Pic of the topside of your PCB.
3. Pic of the underside of your PCB.
4. Pic that clearly shows your footswitch/jack wiring and the wires going to the PCB
5. A pic that clearly shows your wiring going from the PCB to the pots and any other
switches (only if your kit has non-PC mounted pots and switches)
6. Is bypass working?
7. Does the LED come on?
8. If you answered yes to 6 and 7, what does the pedal do when it is in the "on" position?
9. Battery or adapter (if battery, is it good? If adapter, what type?)
Also, please only post photos that are in focus.
Copyrights:
All material in this document is copyrighted 2018 by BYOC, Inc.

Analog Vibrato
Kit Instruction Index
Parts Checklist……………………….................…....page 6
Populating the Circuit Board…….................…...…..page 8
Main PCB Assembly..................................................page 17
Wiring……………………………….........................page 20
Operation Overview...................................................page 26
Schematic....................................................................page 27

This is what your kit should look like when it’s complete. Your kit may come with
different color capacitors, switches ect. Don’t be alarmed by this. They all still do
the exact same thing.

Parts Checklist for the Analog Vibrato Kit
Resistors: (Metal Film (5 Bands) / Carbon Film (4 Bands))
1 - 100R (Brown/Black/Black/Black/Brown) / (Brown/Black/Brown/Gold)
3 - 1k (Brown/Black/Black/Brown/Brown) / (Brown/Black/Red/Gold)
1 - 1k8 (Brown/Gray/Black/Brown/Brown) / (Brown/Gray/Red/Gold)
1 - 2k7 (Red/Purple/Black/Brown/Brown) / (Red/Purple/Red/Gold)
2 - 4k7 (Yellow/Purple/Black/Brown/Brown) / (Yellow/Purple/Red/Gold)
1 - 6k8 (Blue/Gray/Black/Brown/Brown) / (Blue/Gray/Red/Gold)
1 - 7k5 (Purple/Green/Black/Brown/Brown) / (Purple/Green/Red/Gold)
1 - 8k2 (Gray/Red/Black/Brown/Brown) / (Gray/Red/Red/Gold)
15 - 10k (Brown/Black/Black/Red/Brown) / (Brown/Black/Orange/Gold)
3 - 15k (Brown/Green/Black/Red/Brown) / (Brown/Green/Orange/Gold)
4 - 33k (Orange/Orange/Black/Red/Brown) / (Orange/Orange/Orange/Gold)
8 - 47k (Yellow/Purple/Black/Red/Brown) / (Yellow/Purple/Orange/Gold)
1 - 56k (Green/Blue/Black/Red/Brown) / (Green/Blue/Orange/Gold)
3 - 100k (Brown/Black/Black/Orange/Brown) / (Brown/Black/Yellow/Gold)
1 - 150k (Brown/Green/Black/Orange/Brown) / (Brown/Green/Yellow/Gold)
1 - 180k (Brown/Gray/Black/Orange/Brown) / (Brown/Gray/Yellow/Gold)
1 - 220k (Red/Red/Black/Orange/Brown) / (Red/Red/Yellow/Gold)
2 - 330k (Orange/Orange/Black/Orange/Brown) / (Orange/Orange/Yellow/Gold)
2 - 470k (Yellow/Purple/Black/Orange/Brown) / (Yellow/Purple/Yellow/Gold)
4 - 1M (Brown/Black/Black/Yellow/Brown) / (Brown/Black/Green/Gold)
Visit www.byocelectronics.com/resistorcodes.pdf for more information on how to
differentiate resistors.
Capacitors:
2 - 33p ceramic disc cap (May say “33” on the body)
2 - 47p ceramic disc cap (May say “47” on the body)
1 - 200p ceramic disc cap (May say “201” on the body)
1 - 220p ceramic disc cap (May say ‘221” on the body)
1 - .0027uF/2n7 film cap (May say “272” on the body)
1 - .0039uF/3n9 film cap (May say “392” on the body)
1 - .0047uF/4n7 film cap (May say “472” on the body)
2 - .0068uF/6n8 film cap (May say “682” on the body)
2 - .01uF/10n film cap (May say “103” on the body)
1 - .022uF/22n film cap (May say “223” on the body)
4 - .047uF/47n film cap (May say “473” on the body)
1 - .1uF/100n film cap (May say “104” on the body)
2 - 1uF film cap (May say “105” on the body)
2 - 1uF Aluminum Electrolytic
1 - 10uf Aluminum Electrolytic
1 - 47uf Aluminum Electrolytic
1 - 100uf Aluminum Electrolytic
Visit www.byocelectronics.com/capcodes.pdf for more info on how to differentiate
capacitors.

Diodes:
5 - 1N4148 diode
IC's:
1 - TL022
1 - 4558
1 - 3102
1 - 3207
1 - BA6110
4 - DIP8 sockets
1 - SIP9 socket
Transistors:
11 - 2N3904 (or similar NPN silicon transistor)
3 - 2N3906 (or similar PNP silicon transistor)
Trimpots:
1 - 25k
1 - 500k
Potentiometers: SNAP OFF THE SMALL TABS ON THE TOP OF THE POTS
OFF WITH A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS
1 - A250k (RISE)
1 - B50k (DEPTH)
1 - C250k (RATE)
Hardware:
1 - predrilled enclosure w/ 4 screws
1 - Analog Vibrato Printed Circuit Board
1 - Momentary SPST footswitch
1 - 3PDT Footswitch
1 - SPDT On-On Toggle Switch
2 - Enclosed Jacks
4 - rubber bumpers
2 - lock washers (for in and out jacks)
hook-up wire

Populating the Circuit Board
Step 1: Add all the resistors. Resistors are not polarized and can be inserted into the PCB
in either direction, meaning you don’t have to worry about orienting them.

Step 2: Add the diodes. Be sure to match the end of the diodes with the
stripe to the layout on the PCB. The striped ends should go in the square
solder pads.

Step 3: Add the IC sockets. Be sure to align the notch on the IC sockets with
the notch on the PCB screenprint. The SIP-9 socket won’t have any
indicator, so the orientation of the BA6110 is important. Pin 1 of the
BA6110 will go in the square hole which also has a screenprinted square
around it.

Step 4: Add the transistors. Be sure to match the flat side of the transistors
with the flat side on PCB layout. The transistors highlighted in RED are the
2N3904. The transistors highlighted in YELLOW are the 2N3906.

Step 5: Add the film and ceramic disc capacitors. These are non-polarized
so they can go in either direction. The ceramic disc capacitors are
highlighted in yellow, and are also non-polarized.

Step 6: Add the aluminum electrolytic capacitors. These ARE polarized,
meaning there is a positive and negative end. The positive side will have a
longer lead and goes in the square solder pad. The negative side will have a
shorter lead and a stripe running along the body of the cap, and goes in the
round solder pad.

Step 7: Add the trimpots. There are 5 holes, but only three legs on the
trimpots. This is normal. Your trimpot will only fit into three holes; the
additional holes are to accommodate various sizes of trimpots.
Setting the trimpots: When you are done with your build, and ready to use
the pedal, you will use these to control the bias and delay time. Use your ear
and your personal preference. The BIAS sets the Vref for the opamps in the
signal path. Start at the middle of the sweep, and move slightly in either
direction until you get a clean signal. The DELAY control sets the amount
of delay coming from the clock driver. You want to set this so that the
vibrato sounds as full as possible without sounding too noisy.

Step 8: Add the battery snap. Thread the wires into the strain relief holes
first through the bottom side of the PCB. Then insert the leads into their
respective solder pad hole on the top-side of the PCB. The red lead goes in
the + hole and the black lead goes in the – hole

At this point, your build will look like this:

Main PCB Assembly
Step 1: Flip the PCB over so that the bottom or solder side is up. Insert the
potentiometers, toggle switches, and the LEDs into the bottom side of the
PCB. DO NOT SOLDER ANYTHING YET!!! (See below for advanced
tip)
The LED will have one lead that is longer than the other. THIS WILL GO
INTO THE SQUARE SOLDER HOLE.
When placing the potentiometers for enclosure installment, it sometimes helps to
solder the middle lug of the pots, allowing about a 1mm gap between the PCB and
thick part of the potentiometer lug. This allows rigidity of the pots, as well as giving
a little “wiggle room”. After you have your board installed, hand tighten the
potentiometers and switches, and carefully reflow the middle lugs of the pots to
allow the board to settle. After the board has settled, you can solder the rest of the
pot and switch lugs.

Step 2: Hold the PCB in one hand so that the component side of the PCB is
in the palm of your hand and the bottom side with the pots, toggle switch
and LED is facing up. Now use your other hand to guide the predrilled
enclosure onto the PCB assembly so that the pots, toggle switch and LED all
go into their respective holes. Once the PCB assembly is in place, secure it
by screwing on the washers and nuts for the pots. Only tighten them with
your fingers. You do not want them very tight yet. Make sure you’ve
removed the nuts and washers from the pots and that you’ve also snapped
the tabs off the pots as well before installing.
Step 3:Turn the entire pedal over so that the component side of the PCB is
facing up. Lift the PCB up off the pots about 2mm just to make sure that the
back of the PCB does not short out against the pots. Make sure the PCB is
level and symmetrically seated inside the enclosure.
Step 4:Solder the pots, toggle switch and LEDs. You will be soldering on
the component side (top) of the PCB. After you have soldered them in
place, be sure to tighten up their nuts. TIP: only solder one lug of each
component at first. This will secure everything in place and still allow you
to wiggle things around if you need to adjust the fit of anything. Once you
have everything perfect, go ahead and solder everything else.

You will want to place the jacks into the enclosure so the sleeve terminal is
facing the right like the picture above. Be sure to remember the lock washers
so the jacks don’t spin on their own.
Step 5: Install the footswitch. Orient the footswitch so that the flat sides of
the solder lugs are like the diagram below.
NOTE: There are no actual number markings on the footswitch. There are
two correct ways you can orient the footswitch. They are both 180 degrees
of each other. Either way is fine. It does not matter as long as the flat sides
of the solder lugs are running horizontal, not vertical.

FOOT SWITCH SOLDER LUG DESIGNATIONS
Step 5a: Make a jumper between lugs 3 & 6 from clippings from the
resistors. Simply use your needle nose pliers to make a U shape & insert into
lugs 3 & 6, then solder.
Step 5b: Connect a wire to LUG 4 that also jumpers to LUG9. Strip about
1” off one end. Make sure there is enough insulated wire to make the
connection to the TIP of the in jack. Carefully tin the stripped end. You
may want to twist the wire strands together tightly before tinning. Thread
the stripped end through LUGs 4 and 9. This can be a little tricky. If this
part is too frustrating for you, you can just run a separate wire to connect
LUGs 4 and 9. Just be sure to solder the two wires at LUG 4 at the same
time so you only need to make one solder joint.

WIRING
Step 6: Connect the TIP (negative) terminal of the DC adapter jack to the
eyelet on the PCB labeled “-“. Connect the SLEEVE of the DC adapter jack
to the eyelet on the PCB labeled “+” farthest to the right. Connect the
BATTERY lug to the eyelet in-between the “-“ and “+” eyelets.
Finishing Up
1. Add all the IC's to their sockets. The DIP8 ICs may have a ³u-shaped´
notch. If they do, match them up with the notch in the socket that should also
be matched up with the layout. If there is no notch, then there should be a
small dot in the corner of the IC that denotes pin 1. Pin 1 on the circuit board
will always be denoted by a square solder pad. The SIP9 IC will have a
notch between Pin1 and Pin2 and should be matched up with the line on the
layout.
2. Adjust the trim pots as describe earlier.
3. Put the lid on the enclosure, screw it down, and then apply the self
adhesive rubber bumpers.