CDI FF2 User manual

FLEXIBLE FURLER INSTRUCTIONS
FF2
WARNING: READ BEFORE INSTALLING OR USING FURLER
Improper installation of your CDI Flexible Furler or
reinstallation of your current headstay may result in the loss
of your mast and may cause injury to those onboard.
INDEX
-Specifications… Page 1
-Diagram… Page 2
-Parts list… Page 2
-Uncoiling instructions… Page 3
-Straightening instructions… Page 4
-Assembly instructions… Page 5-8
-Sailmaker instructions… Page 9
-Rigger instructions…Page 9
-Notes about Sailing…Page 9
-Notes about Trailering…Page 10
-Maintenance and Storage… Page 10
-Warranty… Page 10
SPECIFICATIONS
-Max Headstay Length: 29’
-Max Wire Size: 3/16”
-Max Turnbuckle Pin Size: 5/16”
-Headstay: Threaded swaged stud turnbuckle with
toggle at the bottom, a toggle at the top is
recommended but any secure fitting like a T-bolt at
the top will work. Must be secured by cotter pins.
Navtec turnbuckles are not compatible.
-Furling line: 3/16” double braided line or any low-
stretch line, twice your boat length. Not included.
-Mounting: must not be mounted above the
turnbuckle. Link plates can be used for clearance.
TOOLS
-Hacksaw
-Measuring tape
-Phillips head screwdriver

Diagram
*FF6 pictured
PARTS LIST
A
Halyard Top Fitting
2011
B
Luff Extrusion/Foil
LFF2
C
Halyard Assembly
1932
D
Furling Drum/Spool
2010
E
Shackle (2)
2007
F
Anchor Pin (2)
1998
G
Luff Support Pin
2009
H
Cup
1807
I
Anti-Rotation Strap
1081
J
Tack Tension Line
7022-4
-
Main Bearing
1033
-
Ball Bearing Assembly
1276
-
Thrust Washer
1253
UNCOILING INSTRUCTIONS
CAUTION: READ BEFORE OPENING
Coiled luffs have a lot of stored energy and can spring open
with force when restraining tape is cut. It is recommended to
wear face and eye protection. Please refer to instructions
below.
The sooner you begin the uncoiling and straightening process,
the faster and easier it will be to straighten the luff.
*The luff should remain coiled for no longer than 2 weeks
Instructions for uncoiling the luff:
Note: it’s best to have one person cutting the bands with at
least one other person holding onto the luff firmly, ensuring it
doesn’t spring out
1) Stand the luff on its side with the tail at the top
2) Have one person stand with one foot on the inside of the
luff while holding onto the tail firmly
3) The second person should then cut the band of tape near
the tail, while the first person is firmly holding onto the tail
and gently letting out the luff
4) Proceed to cut the next bands one at a time using the same
process
5) Carefully cut the last band, ensuring everyone is clear

STRAIGHTENING INSTRUCTIONS
Instructions for straightening the luff:
Note: laying the luff on the ground with weights will not work
but will form kinks instead and also void the warranty.
1) With approximately one person every 8 feet, recoil the luff
in the opposite direction
2) Tape the end of the curved side to the straight side
3) Lay the luff on the ground for at least 3 hours
4) After that time, test to see if it has straightened out
5) If not, repeat the same process. Warmer temperatures will
help to speed up the straightening
6) The luff can have a slight bend to it, the headstay tension
will eventually straighten it out
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Assembly can be done with the mast up but is easiest to do
with the mast down.
1. Measure the length of your headstay from pin-to-pin with
your turnbuckle in its normal setting. If the mast is up, raise a
measuring tape attached to the jib halyard to the top of the
mast and add the length to the top pin on the headstay.
2. With this measurement, deduct 13” and cut the top of the
luff using a saw. Do not cut end with the sail-feed slot.
Note: In 2017, we updated the FF2 halyard top fittings with a
metal sheave to prevent friction when hoisting your sail, this
new design requires a deduction of 13” instead of 12.25”.
3. Take the halyard top fitting
and push the cored end of the
halyard (without the metal
ferrule) up through the bottom
of the off-center hole, not in
the center. Push the halyard
over the sheave and out the
side of the top fitting.
4. Using the de-cored (hollow)
end of the halyard with the
metal ferrule, pass the ferrule down through the slot at the
top of the luff extrusion on the opposite end of the sail feed
slot. Trimming the halyard to the correct length will happen
once the entire furler is setup.
5. Attach the halyard top fitting
to the luff, ensuring that the
side with the halyard coming
through the fitting is on the
same side as the sail feed slot
on the bottom of the luff.
Tighten the set screw so it firmly
presses against the luff.
Note: we updated the line halyards with a metal ferrule
instead of the plastic traveller which would become brittle.
6. Using a spare line the length of your luff (not included), tie
this messenger line to the de-cored end of the halyard
external of the luff, this will be
used to raise the sail.
7. Unscrew both ends of the
turnbuckle completely.
8. Pass the swage-end of the
headstay down through the
halyard top fitting and the luff.
Using locking pliers, hold the luff
above the threaded pin and screw on the turnbuckle body.

9. Using your T-bolt, add additional washers to reduce the
clearance between the T-bolt and the bottom of the cup.
10. Add the anti-rotation strap to the T-bolt and washers.
11. Place the T-bolt and the anti-rotation strap through the
bottom of the cup, then add the bearing (plastic or ball-
bearing) to the T-bolt on the inside of the cup.
12. Align the holes of the cup with the ant-rotation strap
depending on the set-up of your furling line and screw the
assembly together.
13. Slide the furling drum/spool onto the luff, lining up the
sail-feed slot with the anchor shackle. Ensure that the thrust
washer stays inside the bottom opening of the spool.
14. If mast is up, take the T-bolt assembly and screw into the
turnbuckle body, adjust to the correct length. Ensure that all
cotter pins are replaced in the turnbuckle.
15. Lower the spool/drum over the bearing then raise the luff
and insert the luff support pin with the cotter ring into the
spool.
Note:DO NOT DRILL A HOLE THROUGH THE LUFF EXTRUSION
The luff rests on top of the luff support pin, not through it.
16. If mast is down, step the mast
and attach headstay.
17. Adjust the backstay to normal
tension. If headstay needs
adjusting, remove the luff support
pin and raise the spool to adjust,
afterwards reinserting the luff
support pin.
18. Use a furling line (not included)
to go through the opening in the
cup and up through the hole on the
top flange of the spool, tie a knot to secure the line in place.
19. Before raising your sail, manually rotate the spool/drum
20 times to load the furling line. If your furling line will be
going starboard, wrap the line counter clockwise. If your
furling line will be going port side, wrap the line clockwise.
Note: the furling line should be low-stretch and no larger than
3/16” twice your boat length and trimmed down if needed.
20. Position the first fairlead or block (not included) so the
furling line exits the middle of the cup to avoid any friction.
To adjust where the opening of the cup is pointing, repeat
step 14 to get the correct alignment.
21. Place a cleat (not included) near the cockpit in an easily
accessible spot to tie off the furling line.
22. To trim the halyard, ensure the messenger line is attached
then pull the halyard so the end with the ferrule reaches the
top of the forestay at the halyard top fitting.
23. For sails that are at or near full hoist, cut the halyard so
the head of the sail would be just below the sail feed slot on
the extrusion.
24. For sails that are not full hoist,
estimate the distance between the
top of the stay and the head of the
sail when it’s raised (A in diagram)
and add this to the length of the
halyard before cutting
25. Cut the halyard end with
scissors and melt the end to
prevent fraying.
26. Attach the halyard to the head
of the sail using either a halyard
shackle (not included) or tying a
knot directly to it.
27. Feed the luff of the sail into the sail-feed slot while
hoisting the sail by pulling on the messenger line which is
attached to the de-cored end of the halyard (step 6).
28. Remove the messenger line once the sail is fully hoisted
and tie off the halyard on the anchor shackle on the spool.
Note: Always remember to reattach the messenger line when
lowering your sail.
29. Tension the sail by tightening the tack tension line to the
second shackle on the spool and hoisting the sail tight by
pulling on the halyard at a vertical angle, straight down.
Note: Using a winch should never be required.
30. Furl in the sail by pulling on the furling line and keeping
tension on the jib sheet.
A

SAILMAKER INSTRUCTIONS
Sails require a #6 luff tape to be
compatible with all CDI furlers.
Webbing at the head and tack of
the sail is recommended instead of
metal grommets for smoother
furling but is not required.
A: Overall length of the spool = 9.5”
B: Length from the shackle to the
top of the spool = 4”
Length of the halyard top fitting = 4”
RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS
The CDI flexible furler system cannot be mounted above the
turnbuckle as it can cause it to unscrew and dismast. If more
clearance is required, it’s recommended to add link plates.
The FF2 systems are compatible with 1/4”and 5/16”
turnbuckles with a threaded swage-end and a T-bolt toggle.
Most Navtec turnbuckles do not work and are not
recommended as they’re often too big to fit inside the drum.
Cotter pins should be used to lock the turnbuckle, not
locknuts as these can unscrew and cause dismasting.
Toggles are required at the bottom of the headstay, any
secure fitting at the top of the forestay will work but a toggle
is also recommended.
NOTES ABOUT SAILING
The tension on the luff doesn’t need to be high and should
only be tight enough to removes any creases in the sail, use
of a winch usually isn’t necessary.
When sailing reefed, the jib leads should be moved forward
to maintain proper sail shape and avoid the furler from rising
off the bearing.
To furl your sail, always keep tension on your jib sheet while
reefing the furling line.
NOTES ABOUT TRAILERING
When trailering, strap the furler to the mast in a horizontal
position and support the end with the hardware by using a
support. ie. 2x4 or PVC tube
Keep the extrusion as straight as possible, do not let either
end sag or twist.
MAINTENANCE
The only maintenance required is to rinse the furler system
including the ball-bearing assembly if applicable, with fresh
water 1-2 times per year. Clear out any salt or dirt that may
have accumulated.
Note: Lubricants are not required but Teflon sprays or dry
lubricants are acceptable on the luff if needed.
STORING YOUR FURLER
Storage is best accomplished by strapping the furler to the
mast in a horizontal position and supporting the end with the
hardware by using a support ie. 2x4 or PVC tube
When storing, avoid making sharp bends in the extrusion.
This can become permanent after a period of time and is not
covered under warranty.
It is not necessary to remove or recoil your extrusion, doing
this over long periods of time can become permanent or
cause it to break and is not recommended as the furler ages.
Avoid exposing the furler in temperatures above 140F/60C
WARRANTY
The CDI Flexible Furler comes with a 10-year limited warranty
In order for the warranty to be valid, you must be the original
owner of the system and have proof of purchase which
clearly indicates the date of purchase.
If any part becomes non-functional during this time, CDI will
repair or replace it free of charge, not including shipping.
Note: this warranty does not cover damage incurred from
weather, trailering or transporting, collisions at sea, improper
storage, improper uncoiling or straightening of the luff
including using weights or heat guns, etc.

NOTES:
21 SOUTH LANDING DR –OAK BLUFF, CANADA
P: 844-379-2407 | F: 204-896-6969
[email protected] WWW.SAILCDI.COM
2022