Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
NOTE: This installation is to be completed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service
Technician. For questions regarding installation or warranty, call CDI Tech Support
at 866-423-4832. Do not return to the Dealer or Distributor where the part was purchased.
Contact CDI Electronics Directly for Return Materiel Authorization.
CDI Electronics, LLC 353 James Record Road SW Huntsville, AL 35824 USA
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Rev Original 10/15/2018 Page - 1 of 2 QF-358
CDI P/N: 197-0002 Yamaha Voltage Regulator
Replaces P/N: 6H0-81960-00-00.
WARNINGS:
This product is designed for installation by a professional marine mechanic. CDI cannot be held liable for
injury or damage resulting from improper installation, abuse, neglect or misuse of this product.
DO NOT USE A MAINTAINENCE FREE, AGM OR DRY CELL BATTERY WITH THIS TYPE
REGULATOR/RECTIFIER!!!
NEVER DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING AS THIS MAY BURN OUT THE
REGULATOR/RECTIFIER. If the boat is equipped with a battery switch, make sure that it is a make before
break type.
INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect and remove the old regulator/rectifier (saving the mounting bolts).
3. Install the new regulator/rectifier, using the original mounting bolts.
4. Connect the Black wire to a clean engine ground (reconnect to the same location as the original regulator/rectifier was grounded.
5. Connect the stator’s Green wire connector to the new regulator/rectifier.
6. Connect the stator’s Green/White wire connector to the new regulator/rectifier.
7. Connect the stator’s Green/White pigtail wire from the new regulator/rectifier to the Green/White wire in the engine harness (Tach
Lead).
8. Connect the Red wire with the bullet connector to the mating connector going to the engine harness.
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
TROUBLESHOOTING
BATTERY IS NOT BEING CHARGED:
1. Clean all Battery cables, engine and battery connections, both on the engine and on the battery.
2. Install a clamp on ammeter capable of reading at least 30 amperes on the Red battery cable connected to the starter solenoid.
Start the engine and see if the ammeter is showing a charge going into the battery. If so, swap out the battery for a known good
one. If the engine now shows a charge going into the battery, the old battery is defective.
3. Check the resistance between the Lighting Coil’s Green wires as follows:
Read From Read To Disconnected
Green Green/White 0.40 to 0.60 Ω
4. Disconnect all connections to the Regulator/Rectifier. Then, using a Multimeter set to diode scale, check the Diodes between the
Regulator/Rectifier’s Green wires and the Red Wire as follows:
Red Meter Lead Connection Black Meter Lead Connection Reading
Green Red Lead from Regulator/Rectifier 0.4 to 0.6
Green/White Red Lead from Regulator/Rectifier 0.4 to 0.6
Red Lead from Regulator/Rectifier Green Open or No Reading
Red Lead from Regulator/Rectifier Green/White Open or No Reading
5. Check the DVA voltage on stator’s Green wires as follows:
Read From Read To Disconnected Connected At 1500 RPM At 3500 RPM
Green Green/White 7V (at cranking) 7V (at cranking)* 13 V* 11 V*
*Connected to the Regulator/Rectifier. If the voltage is too high, the Regulator/Rectifier may be defective. If the voltage is too low,
the stator is likely defective.
NO TACHOMETER SIGNAL:
1. Disconnect the Green/White wire coming from the engine harness. Using a jumper wire, connect it to the Green lead.
2. If the Tach now works, try cross connecting the Green and Green/White leads to the Regulator/Rectifier. Leave the Green/White
Tach lead from the harness connected to the Green wire of the Regulator/Rectifier.
3. If the Tach quits working, check for a short to engine ground of the Lighting Coil.
