Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
NOTE: This installation is to be completed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service
Technician. Do not return to the Dealer or Distributor where the part was purchased.
Contact CDI Electronics Directly for Return Materiel Authorization.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. Check the resistance and DVA output of the Stator and Trigger:
Read from Read to Ohms Reading DVA (connected to pack)
White/Red Trigger wire White/Yellow Trigger wire 280-430 ohms 2.5 Volts Minimum
White/Black Trigger wire White/Green Trigger wire 280-430 ohms 2.5 Volts Minimum
White/Red Trigger wire Eng Ground Open 2.5 Volts Minimum
White/Black Trigger wire Eng Ground Open 2.5 Volts Minimum
White/Yellow Trigger wire Eng Ground Open 2.5 Volts Minimum
White/Green Trigger wire Eng Ground Open 2.5 Volts Minimum
Brown Stator wire Blue Stator wire 600-800 ohms 85 Volts Minimum
Brown Stator wire Eng Ground Open 85 Volts Minimum
Blue Stator wire Eng Ground Open 16 Volts Minimum
Blue Stator wire Red Stator wire 10-20 ohms 16 Volts Minimum
Red Stator wire Eng Ground Open 30 Volts Minimum
2. Check the DVA output on the Black/White wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at
least 125V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load
resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack or trigger (test per
above).
ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE ABOVE APPROXIMATELY 2000 RPM:
1. Verify the engine is not overheating and causing the power pack to limit the RPM.
2. Disconnect the Pink wire from the power pack and retest. If the engine now performs correctly, check the overheat sensor, oil level
in the oil tank mounted on the engine and the wiring harness.
3. Check the position of the Pink wire and make sure it is not next to a spark plug wire.
ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE ABOVE APPROXIMATELY 2500 RPM:
1. Using an inductive tachometer, check the RPM on all cylinders. A difference in readings between the individual cylinders can be
caused by a bad coil, power pack or spark plug.
2. If all cylinders show the same RPM and the engine will only rev to approximately 2500 RPM, check the running stator DVA output
from idle thru WOT. You should show a steady increase in voltage on the Blue to the Black/Red stator wires throughout the RPM
range. A drop in voltage can be the result of a bad stator coil or a bad regulator/rectifier (disconnect the Green wires to the
regulator/rectifier and retest – if the engine now performs OK, the regulator/rectifier is likely bad).
HIGH SPEED MISS:
1. Verify the engine is not overheating and causing the problem.
2. Using an inductive tachometer, check the RPM on all cylinders. A difference in readings between the individual cylinders can be
caused by a bad coil, power pack or spark plug.
3. Disconnect the Green wires to the regulator/rectifier and retest – if the engine now performs OK, the regulator/rectifier is likely bad.
S.A.F.E. WILL NOT ENGAGE:
Disconnect the Pink warning wire from the power pack. Connect a jumper wire to engine ground and connect it to the terminal where
the Pink wire goes. If the engine now limits at approximately 2000 RPM, check the wiring from the temperature sensor and oil tank to
the power pack. If it still fails to engage, the power pack is likely bad.
ENGINE WILL NOT KILL (STOP)
Disconnect the White kill wire and connect a jumper wire to engine ground. If you still have spark, the power pack is likely bad. If the
engine has no spark with the jumper connected, either the wiring harness, keyswitch or emergency stop switch is bad.
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