Chef's Choice 315S User manual

MODEL 315S INST UCTIONS
Sharpener For Asian Knives
Read these instructions before use.
It is essential that you follow these
instructions to achieve optimum results.
© 2011 EdgeCraft Corp.

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IMPORTANT SAFEG ARDS
When using electrical appliances, basic safety precautions should always be
followed including the following:
1. Read all instructions. Every user should read this manual.
2. To protect against electrical hazards, do not immerse the Chef’sChoice®Model 315S in
water or other liquid.
3. Make sure only clean knife blades are inserted in Model 315S.
4. Unplug from outlet when not in use, before putting on or taking off parts and
before cleaning.
5. Avoid contacting moving parts.
6. Do not operate any appliance with a damaged cord or plug or after the appliance
malfunctions, or is dropped or damaged in any manner.
U.S. customers: You can return your sharpener to EdgeCraft’s factory for service where
the cost of repair or electrical or mechanical adjustment can be estimated. When the
electrical cord on this appliance is damaged, it must be replaced by the Chef’sChoice
distributor or other qualified service to avoid the danger of electrical shock.
Outside U.S.: Please return your sharpener to your local distributor where the cost of
repair or electrical or mechanical adjustment can be estimated. If the supply cord of this
appliance is damaged, it must be replaced by a repair facility appointed by the manufac-
turer because special tools are required. Please consult your Chef’sChoice distributor.
7. CAUTION! This appliance may be fitted with a polarized plug (one blade is wider than
the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug will fit in a polarized outlet only
one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit,
contact a qualified electrician. Do not modify the plug in anyway.
8. The use of attachments not recommended or sold by EdgeCraft Corporation may cause
fire, electric shock or injury.
9. The Chef’sChoice®Model 315S is designed to sharpen Asian style knives. Do not
attempt to sharpen scissors, ax blades or any blade that does not fit freely in the slots.
10.Do not let the cord hang over edge of table or counter or touch hot surfaces.
11.When in the “ON” position (Red flash on switch is exposed when “on”), the
Chef’sChoice®sharpener should always be on a stable countertop or table.
12.WARNING: NIVES PROPERLY SHARPENED ON YOUR CHEF’SCHOICE®WILL BE
SHARPER THAN YOU EXPECT. TO AVOID INJURY, USE AND HANDLE THEM WITH
EXTREME CARE. DO NOT CUT TOWARD ANY PART OF YOUR FINGERS, HAND OR BODY.
DO NOT RUN FINGER ALONG EDGE. STORE IN A SAFE MANNER.
13.Do not use outdoors.
14.Close supervision is necessary when any appliance is used by or near children or
the infirm.
15.Do not use honing oils, water or any other lubricant with the Model 316.
16.For household use only.
17.SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS.

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YO MADE A GOOD CHOICE
The Model 315S Asian Sharpener designed with the latest sharpening, polishing and stropping
technology from Chef’sChoice gives you a precision sharpener that can quickly restore your
Asian knives to their original factory sharpness. This new sharpener incorporates the highly pre-
cise angle control and the unique stropping materials that has made Chef’sChoice sharpeners
the choice of leading chefs worldwide.
You will appreciate how the ultrafine abrasives in the stropping disks of this sharpener
delicately hone and polish the extraordinary sharp edges characteristic of the thin oriental
blades. By following these Instructions you can also, if you wish, convert any of your thinner
Euro/American style knives to the lower angle Asian edge and experience a significantly
improved performance. These instructions describe how each of your Asian knives including the
traditional Japanese blades can be edged with the Model 315S.
You will appreciate how effortlessly you will be able to prepare your favorite sushi, sashimi, and
vegetables or to tail, fillet or chop the fresh catch of the day.
ASIAN KNIVES
Asian knives differ from Euro/American style knives in that the most popular Asian blades have
a thinner cross section where the edge facets are formed. In addition each cutting edge facet
is generally set at an angle substantially less than the conventional facets on Euro/American
blades. The thinner blade behind the edge facets and the smaller angled facets of Asian blades
reduces the amount of effort needed to cut or slice. Asian type blades are ideal for preparing,
slicing and chopping vegetables, for filleting fish and for preparing the popular sushi and
sashimi. For more information on the design of Asian knives refer to the Description of
Euro/American and Asian blades, page 9.
NDERSTANDING THE CHEF’SCHOICE®ASIAN KNIFE SHARPENER
The Chef’sChoice Model 315S is designed to create a factory sharp Asian edge on contempo-
rary Japanese style knives, all Chinese style cleavers, and the traditional style Japanese blades.
Because of the low sharpening angle and the fine diamond abrasives used in this
specialized sharpener, it is not recommended for routine sharpening of thick sporting knives,
the heavier European style chef knives and European cleavers. These thicker knives can be
sharpened in other Chef’sChoice sharpeners such as Models 120, 2000 and 2100.
The Model 315S Asian sharpener has one
sharpening stage followed by a stropping
stage as shown in Figure 1. The sharpening
stage hones the edge at about 15 degrees with
a fine diamond abrasive. The second stage
strops and polishes the edge to a finer finish at
a slightly larger angle. In both Stage 1 and
Stage 2 the left side and right side of the blade
are sharpened separately, which allows you to
hone and strop each oriental knife correctly.
The contemporary Japanese blades and
Chinese cleavers should be honed and
stropped on both sides of the blade. However, Figure 1. Model 316 Sharpener for Asian knives.
Stage 1
Left
slot ight
slot
Stage 2
Left
slot ight
slot
Knife
Holding
Spring
Power switch

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the traditional single bevel Japanese blade such as the sashimi blade must be sharpened and
stropped primarily on the front side of the blade which has the very large factory bevel (Bevel
A. See page 9 for further detail).
The Model 315S is equipped with a manually actuated diamond dressing pad that can be used,
if necessary, to clean any accumulated food or sharpening debris from the ultrafine abrasive
surface of the Stage 2 polishing/stropping disks. We strongly urge that you always thoroughly
clean your knives before sharpening them. Unless you are a heavy user, you should go months
or even a year or more before you need to dress the stropping/polishing disks. Only if you sense
a distinct decrease in polishing efficiency in Stage 3 is there any need to use this convenient
feature described on page 10.
Never operate the sharpener from the back side. Use just enough downward pressure when
sharpening to ensure uniform and consistent contact of the blade with the abrasive disks on
each stroke. Additional pressure is unnecessary and will not speed the sharpening process.
Avoid excessive cutting into the plastic enclosure. Accidental cutting into the enclosure however
will not functionally impact operations of the sharpener or damage the edge.
Try a practice pull through the sharpener before you turn on the power. S lip the knife blade
smoothly into the left slot between the left angle guide of Stage 1 and the plastic knife holding
spring. Do not twist the knife. Move the blade down in the slot until you feel it contact the
diamond disk. Pull it towards you lifting the handle slightly as you approach the tip. This will
give you a feel for the spring tension. Remove the knife and read the instructions specific to the
type of knife you will be sharpening.
SHARPENING THE CONTEMPORARY ASIAN KNIFE
Before sharpening your contemporary style Asian blade, refer to Description of Asian and
Euro/American blades, pages 9 and 10, to confirm that you do in fact have a double faceted
blade. All double faceted Asian blades are defined as contemporary blades. Most of the
popular Asian blades such as the Usuba (nakiri) and Santoku currently sold in the United States
are the double faceted contemporary design. If your double faceted knife is very thin at the
edge and it is relatively new it probably will not need to be pre-honed in Stage 1 before
polishing. Instead, start in Stage 2, which will strop and polish the edge with ultrafine
abrasives. Turn on the power switch and sharpen in Stage 2 as follows:
START BY STROPPING/POLISHING THE EDGE IN STAGE 2
a. Pull the blade through the left slot of Stage 2 (see Figure 2) and then through the right slot of
Stage 2. Make 2 pairs of pulls, alternating each pull in the left and right slots of Stage 2. You
should take about 3 to 4 seconds for each pull for a 5 inch (12 cm) long blade.
b. Then make 3 pairs of alternating faster pulls (about 1 second per pull for a 5 inch [12 cm]
blade) in Stage 2.

If the knife is not yet shaving sharp, repeat steps a and b above. Again test the blade for
sharpness. In the event the knife still is not sufficiently sharp it will be faster to first pre-hone it
in Stage 1 as follows:
SING THE HONING STAGE 1
a. Pull the blade alternately through the left and right slots (see Figure 3) of Stage 1, making
about 3 pair of pulls, taking about 3 seconds for each pull. Check the edge carefully to
confirm the presence of a burr (see Figure 4), which will be quite small since the Stage 1
abrasive is quite fine. To check for the burr, move your forefinger carefully across the edge
as shown in Figure 4. (Do not move your finger along the edge—to avoid cutting your
finger). If the last pull was in the right slot, the burr would appear only on the right side of
the blade (as you normally hold it) and vice versa. The burr, when present, feels like a rough
and bent extension of the edge; the opposite side of the edge feels very smooth by
comparison. When a burr exists along the entire edge, proceed to strop and polish again in
Stage 2.
b. If there is no burr continue honing in Stage 1, alternating left and right slots until a light burr
develops. When a burr is present along the entire blade length proceed as below to polish
again in Stage 2.
RET RN TO STROPPING/POLISHING STAGE 2
a. Make 3 pairs of pulls, alternating pulls in the left and right slots, taking 3 seconds per pull
for a 5” blade. Make 3 pairs of faster pulls, alternating left and right slots, taking 1 second
per pull. Test the blade for sharpness.
Figure 4. When you create a distinct burr along the
blade edge, it can be detected by sliding finger across
and away from the edge. Caution! See text.
Figure 3. Santoku knife in right slot of Stage 1.
Figure 2. Santoku knife in left slot Stage 2 (double facet
Santoku blade).
5

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b. If the edge is not shaving sharp, make a few more pairs of fast pulls in Stage 2 until the
edge is shaving sharp.
RE-SHARPENING THE CONTEMPORARY ASIAN BLADE
Re-sharpen by following the procedure above starting with Polishing in Stage 2 as described.
Depending on its use, you should be able to resharpen to a razor edge 5 or more times using
only Stage 2 before finding it necessary to again hone in Stage 1. Hone in Stage 1 only when
you find it is taking too long or too many pulls in Stage 2 to bring the edge to razor sharpness.
In that event, follow the sharpening sequence described above.
SHARPENING THE TRADITIONAL (SINGLE BEVEL)
JAPANESE BLADE
Traditional Japanese knives are single sided and have a large factory bevel (Bevel A, Figure
9b) on one side of the blade. There are a large number of manufacturers of knives of this type
which are used widely to prepare sashimi. The factory bevel (Bevel A) is commonly ground
at about 10 degrees, but there are exceptions and that angle is not standardized at the fac-
tories. Designs of the traditional Japanese knives and the detailed structure of the cutting
edges likewise varies widely from one manufacturer to the next, however there are some
similarities. The cutting edge consists of a small primary facet on the front face of the blade
and a much smaller secondary microfacet along the back face. Commonly the back side
microfacet (Figure 10) can be easily seen only with a hand magnifier. The back face is ground
flat at the factory or more commonly it is slightly hollow ground to ensure that an effective
microfacet can be formed there as part of the cutting edge. Because of the lack of standard-
ization, commonly the manual approach used to sharpen these knives has proven difficult,
laborious and time consuming. The Chef’sChoice®Model 315S Sharpener is designed to
sharpen all traditional Asian blades and to create a factory-like edge.
Before you start to sharpen a traditional blade, examine it carefully in order to confirm that you
have the traditional single bevel blade and to determine whether you have a right or left
handed type as described on page 9, Figure 9b. It is essential that you follow carefully the
sharpening procedure and sequence as described below in order to achieve the optimum edge
on your traditional blade.
Again confirm which side of the blade has the large factory Bevel A. Hold the blade in your hand
(as if you are cutting) and if the large factory bevel is on the right side of the blade, the blade is
right handed. For the right handed blades start sharpening in the left slot of Polishing Stage 2
so that only the beveled side (right side) of the edge will contact the polishing wheel.
STEP 1 - START IN STROPPING/POLISHING STAGE 2 (RIGHT HANDED BLADES)
Pull the full length of the blade through only the left slot of Stage 2 (Figure 5) about ten (10) times
(take about 3 or 4 seconds for each pull of a 5 inch (12 cm) blade and proportionally longer for

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longer blades). Feel for a burr on back side of blade edge as shown in Figure 4. (The burr will be
extremely small). If there is no burr, make ten (10) additional slow pulls through the left slot. If no
burr is formed after these pulls proceed to Step 2; otherwise omit Step 2 and go to Step 3.
STEP 2 – SING THE HONING STAGE 1 (RIGHT HANDED BLADES)
If you were unable to develop a burr in Stage 2 as described in Step 1 you will need to hone
the edge in Stage 1 as follows: Since your traditional blade is right handed you must hone only
in the left slot of Stage 1 (see Figure 6). The number of pulls that you need to make depends
on how dull your blade is. Duller blades will require more pulls.
Make ten (10) pulls in the left slot of Stage 1 and then check for a burr along the back side of
the blade edge. (The burr created in Stage 1 will be small but easily felt as shown in Figure 4).
Make certain the burr is present along the entire length of the edge. If there is no burr or only
a partial burr, continue to make additional pulls all in the left slot about five (5) at a time and
check for a burr after each group of five (5) pulls. Probably 20-30 total pulls in the left slot will
be adequate to raise a burr; it is unlikely to take more than 50 left slot pulls to create the burr.
When a burr is confirmed, proceed to Step 3.
STEP 3 – FORMING THE FINAL EDGE (RIGHT HANDED BLADE)
a. Make five (5) regular pulls 3-4 seconds only in the left slot of Stage 2 and then proceed to
step b. below to remove any burr.
b. Make one (1) regular pull in right slot of Stage 2 along the back side of the edge.
c. Make several pairs of fast pulls (one (1) second each) in Stage 2 alternating in the left and
right slots of Stage 2. The fast pulls with ultrafine abrasives strop and polish the facet on the
front side of the blade as well as the rear microfacet to create an extremely sharp edge.
d. Check the blade carefully for sharpness using a thin sheet of paper. The blade should be
razor sharp. If not razor sharp repeat 3c. above and retest the blade for sharpness.
RESHARPENING THE TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BLADE (RIGHT HANDED)
In general you will be able to resharpen quickly by making 3 or 4 pairs of fast pulls alternating
in the left and right slots of Stage 2. Repeat this if necessary to obtain a razor sharp edge.
When resharpening only in Stage 2 becomes too slow to develop a sharp edge or if the edge
has been damaged you will need to re-hone the edge in Stage 1. Use only the left slot of
Stage 1. Generally you will find that about five (5) re-honing pulls will be sufficient in Stage
1 to speed the resharpening in Stage 2. After re-honing return to Stage 2 and repeat Step
3 above.
Figure 6. Traditional (sushimi) knife in left slot of Stage 1.Figure 5. Traditional (sushimi) knife in left slot of Stage 2.

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SHARPENING LEFT HANDED TRADITIONAL BLADES
The procedure you must use with left handed blades is similar to that procedure for right
handed blades as detailed above – Except, in all cases the slots you must use are reversed.
Where the sharpening procedure for right handed blades calls for use of the left slot, you
must use the right slot when sharpening a left-handed blade. Likewise use the left slot
where the right handed instructions call for using the right slot.
HOW TO CREATE THE ASIAN EDGE ON
E RO/AMERICAN BLADES
If you have a Euro/American brand knife, it is relatively simple to convert its edge to the low
angle Asian double faceted edge. Remember that the advantage of the Asian edge is due to the
thinner cross-section of the typical Asian blade where the edge facets are formed, and the
smaller angle (about 15°) of each edge facet. If the Euro/American style blade is thick and its
thickness at the top of its edge facets is already large, some of the advantage of the Asian edge
will not be realized. Consequently, the blade must be very thin where the facets are honed in
order to realize the advantage of the Asian edge. You might consider this change first for one of
your thinnest blades such as a thin utility blade or perhaps a thin paring knife.
To convert from the Euro/American Edge to the Asian Edge, start with the Honing Stage 1 as follows:
START IN HONING STAGE 1
Pull the full length of blade thru the left (Figure 7) and right slots of Stage 1, using the left and
right slots on alternate pulls. (Take about 3-4 seconds for each pull on a 5” long blade). It will
take about 20 pair of pulls to fully re-angle the edge of a thin blade. Thicker blades will gener-
ally require more pulls. Check for a burr and continue to make more pulls as necessary to
create a small burr along the full length of the blade. Then proceed to Stage 2 as follows.
Figure 7. European blade in left slot Stage 1. Figure 8. European blade in right slot Stage 2.

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STROPPING & POLISHING IN STAGE 2
a. Make about 4 to 5 pairs of pulls through Stage 2 (Figure 8), alternating each pull in the left
and right slots (about 3 seconds for each pull on a 5 inch [12 cm] long blade.)
b. Then make 4 pairs of fast pulls alternating through the left and right slots. (1 second for each
pull for a 5 inch [12 cm] blade.)
c. Check the blade for sharpness. For a sharper edge make a few more pairs of fast pulls as
in step b and check for sharpness.
RE-SHARPENING THE E RO/AMERICAN BLADE
Re-sharpen in Polishing Stage 2 as described above. You will be able to re-sharpen repetitively
about 5-10 times using only Stage 2 as described above. After resharpening a number of times,
you may want to hone in Stage 1 to speed the re-sharpening process. In Stage 1 make about
5 pairs of alternating slow pulls and check for a burr. When a burr exists, proceed to polish in
Stage 2 as described above.
DESCRIPTION OF ASIAN AND E RO/AMERICAN BLADES
In general you will find that Euro/American blades have a sturdier cross-section than the more
delicate and thinner contemporary Asian blades. The variation among commercially available
knives of any type is great and in fact some Euro/American blades are very thin and certain
Asian knives have a thicker cross-section designed for heavier work.
2. TRADITIONAL JAPANESE KNIVES, Fig. 9b
The traditional Japanese knife is single beveled and has a wide
factory bevel A along one face of the blade above the small
edge facet. These are sold as either right handed or left handed
versions as shown in Fig. 9b. The wide factory bevel A is
ground, commonly at about 10 degrees. The most popular
example of this type blade is the sashimi knife also called
Yanagi and Takohiki, designed as shown to the right This
lengthy, slicing blade is ideal for preparing very thin slices of
raw tuna or salmon. The back of this blade is commonly slightly
hollow ground. A small single cutting edge facet of about 15° to
20° is created along the front of the edge of the sashimi blade as shown in Figures 9b and 10 in order to estab-
lish the geometry of the cutting edge. An even smaller cutting micro-facet (barely visible to the unaided eye) is
customarily created on the back face of the blade to enhance the sharpness of the finished edge. Figure 10
shows a greatly enlarged cross-section view of a typical factory edge on the traditional single-bevel Japanese
knife. The large factory bevel A serves to deflect the food slice away from the blade as it is cut.
1. CONTEMPORARY ASIAN KNIVES, Fig. 9a
The more popular Asian blades; the thin, light weight Santoku
and Nakiri are generally double faceted (sharpened on both
faces of the blade) as shown in Fig. 9a. Occasionally Santoku
knives are sold with single facets (Fig. 9b below) but these are
not readily available in the United States.
There are other but somewhat heavier double-faceted Asian
knives, the Deba and Gyutou, popular in Asia, which are used for
chopping hard vegetables, for tailing and filleting fish and for
meats. These are basically Asian chefs knives designed for
heavier duty work. The Chinese cleaver is included in this class.
Thickness
(approx. 0.25mm)
double faceted
Thickness
(approx. 0.1-0.2mm)
Back
Left handed ight handed
Factory
Bevel A
Commonly
small
10 to 11°
Factory
Bevel A
Commonly
small
10 to 11°
Front face
Front face
Each facet
about 15°
Sharpened
edge facet
about 15°
Figure 9a. Double faceted contemporary blades.
Figure 9b. Single beveled traditional blades.

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DRESSING OF STROPPING/POLISHING DISKS – STAGE 2
The Model 315S is equipped with a built-in accessory to manually clean/dress the
stropping/polishing disks in Stage 2. In the event these disks become glazed with grease, food
or sharpening debris, they can be cleaned and reshaped by actuating the manual lever on the
rear of the sharpener. This lever is located within a recess as shown in Figure 11 on the lower
left corner as you face the rear of the Sharpener. To actuate the cleaning/dressing tool, make
sure the power is on and simply press the small lever in the recess to the right, hold about
3-4 seconds and then press to the left and repeat for 3-4 seconds. When the lever is moved in
one direction, the dressing tool cleans and reshapes the active surface of one stropping/polish-
ing disk. By next moving in the opposite direction you clean the other disk.
Use this clean/dress accessory only if the Stage 2 white disks are seriously darkened and when
Stage 2 no longer appears to be stropping/polishing well. Using this tool removes material from the
surface of the Stage 2 disks and hence, if used excessively, it will unnecessarily remove too much
of the abrasive surface – wearing the disks out prematurely. If that should occur, factory replace-
ment of the disks will become necessary. If you clean your knives regulary before sharpening you
should need to clean or dress the Stage 2 disks only about once a year or less frequently.
S GGESTIONS
1. Always clean all food, fat and foreign materials from knife before sharpening or resharpening.
If soiled, carefully wash the blade before sharpening.
2. Use only light downward pressure when sharpening – just enough to establish secure
contact with the abrasive disk.
3. E ROPEAN/AMERICAN BLADES, Fig. 9c
While most of the Euro/American knives (shown on the right)
have a thicker cross-section designed for heavier work, the
range of blade thickness in these familiar blades is great and
certain of these knives, such as the conventional paring, fillet
and utility blades, have a relatively thin cross-section well
suited to their intended application. Euro/American blades
are universally double beveled (sharpened on both sides of
the blade.) Thickness
(approx. 0.5m m)
double faceted
Figure 10. Cross-section of a typical factory traditional
Asian knife edge, magnified 50x (right-handed).
Back
Factory
Bevel A
Front
edge
facet, 15°
Microfacet
15°
approx. .002 inch Figure 11. Cleaning the polishing disks (see text).
Each facet
about 20°
Factory
Bevel A
Figure 9c.

Figure 13. If your blade has a significant choil it may
be helpful to place our finger behind it as shown
when sharpening.
Figure 14. Insert your index finger as shown behind the
choil as the knife is inserted into the sharpening slot
(see Suggestion 8.)
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3. Always pull the blades at the recommended speed and at a constant rate over length of
blade. Never interrupt or stop the motion of the blade when in contact with abrasive disks.
4. Carefully follow the detailed procedures for each type blade for best results and to extend
the useful life of your knives. The sharpening sequence is especially important with the
single sided traditional blades.
5. The edge of the knife blade, while sharpening, should be held in a level position relative to
the top of the counter or table. To sharpen the blade near the tip of a curved blade, lift the
handle up slightly as you approach the tip of the blade but just enough to maintain audible
contact with the honing or stropping disk as each section along the curved length of the
edge is being sharpened.
6. To increase your proficiency with the Chef’sChoice®Model 315S, learn how to detect a burr
along the edge (as described on page 5). While you might be able to sharpen well without
using this technique, it is the best and fastest way to determine when you have sharpened
sufficiently in the preliminary steps. This will help you avoid oversharpening and ensure
incredibly sharp edges every time. Cutting a tomato or a piece of paper is a convenient
method of checking for finished blade sharpness.
7. Some contemporary Asian knives are dimpled and some contemporary and traditional Asian
blades are made of layered Damascus steel. All of these should be sharpened accordingly
to these instructions depending on whether the knife style is contemporary (two facets)
or traditional.
8. If your knife has a significant choil you may find it helpful to place your index finger within
or just behind the choil (See Figures 13 and 14) as you insert the blade in the sharpener.
Choil
Figure 12. emoving cover under base to clean out
metal dust. (See Normal Maintenance section)

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Assembled in USA www.edgecraft.com
This product may be covered by one or more EdgeCraft patents and/or patents pending as
marked on the product. Chef’sChoice®, EdgeCraft®, Diamond Hone®and the overall design of
this product are registered trademarks of the EdgeCraft Corporation.
Conforms to: UL 982 Certified to CAN/CSA: C22.2 No.64
Certified to: EN 60335-1, EN60335-2, EN55014-1+Ai, EN 61000-3-2, EN61000-3-3
D11 C318204
®
Your finger can act as a “stop” and prevent you from inserting the blade so far that the choil
area will catch on the front stop-bar of the sharpener as you begin to withdraw the blade.
A little practice will help you perfect this technique. As you insert the blade let your finger
slide down the front of the sharpener.
NORMAL MAINTENANCE
NO lubrication is required for any moving parts, motor, bearings or sharpening surfaces. There
is no need for water on abrasives. The exterior of the sharpener may be cleaned by carefully
wiping with a soft damp cloth. Do not use detergents or abrasives.
Once a year or so as needed you should remove metal dust that will accumulate inside the
sharpener from repeated sharpenings. Remove the small rectangular clean-out cover (Figure 12)
that covers an opening on the underside of the sharpener. You will find metal particles adhered to
a magnet attached to the inside of that cover. Simply rub off or brush off accumulated filings from
the magnet with a paper towel or tooth brush and reinsert the cover in the opening. If larger
amounts of metal dust have been created you can shake out any remaining dust through the
bottom opening when the cover is removed. After cleaning, replace the cover securely with its
magnet in place.
SERVICE
In the event post-warranty service is needed, return your sharpener to the EdgeCraft factory
where the cost of repair can be estimated before the repair is undertaken. Outside the USA,
contact your retailer or national distributor.
Please include your return address, daytime telephone number and a brief description of the
problem or damage on a separate sheet inside the box. Retain a shipping receipt as evidence
of shipment and as your protection against loss in shipment.
Send your sharpener (insured and postage paid) to:
EdgeCraft Corporation
825 Southwood oad
Avondale, PA 19311
Customer Service [phone] or [phone]