CNC Workshop MINIATURE scenery Steel Worm User manual

Preparation
Once you clear some table space you will need a
hobby knife and glue (PVA, wood glue, hobby glue)
and a file or small piece of sandpaper to be used for
cleaning up any tiny imperfections.
It’s a good idea to familiarise yourself with how the
pieces fit together before gluing.
Getting Started
I. Parts should remove easily from the board by
pressing through and popping them out. It’s a
good idea to cut through the tiny joins first
though, and some parts (particularly smaller,
more detailed parts) may need more careful
persuasion.
II. Use a file or sand paper last to completely
remove the tabs that might remain.
III. Parts may be a very tight fit, slight trimming
or sanding of parts may be needed for ease of
assembly.
Construction
Slot the parts together as shown by the pic-
tures below, applying glue wherever there is
a connection.
Allow the model to completely dry before
painting it. This is a complex kit with many
small parts. Allowing each section to dry
thoroughly before heading to the next is
strongly recommended.
INSTRUCTIONS
STEEL WORM
Some parts of this kit are
very fine, or have en-
graving very close to
edges. Make sure you
cut through any tabs
carefully with a hobby
knife first to avoid dam-
age.
The exclusive copyright on the model designs are the property of CNC Workshop Ltd. © Copyright CNC Workshop Ltd., 2006. All rights reserved. Made in Australia

This bit is kinda involved, and may be a little frustrating. Take
your time, It should work out.
The crater surface is lightly joined into a single piece, so remove it
from the board carefully. Apply glue to the top ring (a) and outer
edge (b). (Its a good idea to put the whole thing on a disposable
piece of paper)
Carefully place the crater surface over the top and gently but
firmly smoosh (a technical term...) the whole thing down evenly
so the centre parts of the surface bend upwards and the outer solid
ring touches the ground.

Gently push the surface into position while applying a bit
of superglue between the joints and cracks. (Squeeze the
glue into the cracks and let it flow between the parts) Do
this a small section at a time, allow it to dry, then proceed
around the circle until complete. I used cheap $2 dollar
shop superglue for this.

NOTE that throughout con-
struction there are small
holes in the centre of many of
the round parts. You can use
these to assist with alignment
by inserting toothpicks or
similar.

5x

Now would be a good time to
start painting your model if you
have not already done so.
Painting the scales before attach-
ing them is also highly recom-
mended.

Scales.
This is the repetitive bit.
You’ll need about 40 of these.
(I used 39)
Starting at the second most
bottom rib, glue the first layer
in place as shown. Splay them
slightly outwards.

The scales will get very
crowded at the back.
I left the centre scale of the
second row to allow space.

The final two rows are
different.
Make ten of these.

I’ve flared out the top row to
give her a bit of a frill. You
could glue the closed up if you
like.
x4

Glue the “teeth” in at your de-
sired angle.