CULTIVATE 3D The Beast v2 Manual

Build Manual

Contents
Forward 4
How this (and most) 3D Printers work. 5
CAUTION : Care of
Lead Screws and Straight Rods 6
3D Printing Workow 7
Space to work 8
Tools / Parts Required 8
Build Time 9
How To Use This Manual 9
Acrylic Parts Reference 10
Printed Parts Reference 11
Basic Frame 12
Y Transfer Idlers and Rod 14
Y Motor & Mount 15
Front Cross Member 16
Y Front Idlers 16
Y Endstop 17
Delrin Wheels 18
Y Carrier Left and Right 18
Z Belt Idler 19
Y Carriage 20
Main Hotend Carriage 23
Rear Hotend Carriage Carrier 23
Front Hotend Carriage Carrier 24
Single Hotend Mount 25
Single / Sync Hotend Assembly 26
Multi Material Hotend 29
Direct Drive (Titan Aero) 31
Gantry Congurations 33
Synchronous Gantry Assembly 35
Hotend Shroud 38
Attach X Belts 39
Attach Y Belts 39
Z System 40
Bed Mounts 40
Front Rod Guides 41
12mm Rod and Rod Holders 42
Front Lead Screws 43
Rear Rod Guide 45
Z Motor and Lead Screw 45
Power Supply Unit (PSU) 48
Electronics Enclosure 49
LCD Mount 51
Bed Braces 52
Attach the Z Belt 53
The Print Bed 53
The Heated Bed 54
Calibrating the Bed 55
Extruder Panel 56
Titan Extruder(s) 57
Side, Rear Panels and Doors 58
Bowden Tube / Push-t 58
Top Door / Spool Holders 60
Filament Out Sensors 61
Apply Decal 62
Method for Extending Wires 63
Electrical Connections 63
Extending Blower Fans 64
Cable Chain 65
Prepare the ATX Power Supply 66
Identify Green Cable 67
Solder Heater Cartridge Wires. 68
Connect Green Cable 68
Install LED Light Strip. 69
Extend 3D Touch Wires 70
Extend All Wires 70
Extend Filament Out Sensor Wires 71
Tie Back Points 72
Run Cables Down to Electronics
Enclosure 73
Microstepping 74
Stepper Drivers 74
Connect 4x CPU Fan Adapter to 75
Electronics Board 75
Setting The Microstepping 75
Wiring Diagram 77
Stepper Expander 80
EEPROM 81
Firmware Overview 81
Using the Repetier Congurator 82
Repetier Host 82
Using the LCD Interface 83
Resetting EEPROM 83
LCD Contrast 84
Reset Button 84
3D Touch Sensor / Setting the Nozzle Height 85
Saving Settings From LCD 85
Filament Choice 86
Choosing the Right Bed Coating 86
The Heated Bed 87
MultiMaterial 2/1 Slicer Settings 88
GCode / Slicing your 3D Model 88
Auto Level Bed / Distortion Mapping 89
Getting the nozzle to the perfect printing height. 89
Blocked Hotends and how 90
to avoid them 90
2/1 Multimaterial Hotend 93
Components 93
2/1 Multimaterial Hotend 94
Re-Assembly 94
Maintenance Checklist 95
PAGE 3COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 2

How this (and most) 3D
Printers work.
Most 3D Printers are generic in the way they work, the parts they use and software they work
with. The Beast V2 is no exception. This is great, because it means should a problem arise
with this printer, chances are support, upgrades and parts can be used from another make /
model.
The 3D Printing process starts with the design creation of a part in CAD, solid modeling
software. An STL (solid model) le is then exported from the Solid Modeling Software and
imported into a Slicer.
Slicing software is where most of the printing parameters are set. Examples of Slicing
software are Slic3r (free), Cura (Free) and Simplify3D (paid) to name a few. A GCode le is
exported from the slicing software and printed via USB from a connected PC or copied to an
SD Card for printing.
When the printer is turned on, the Touch Sensor starts a self test, moving up and down to en-
sure no obstructions exist under the nozzle. If an error occurs, a light will ash on the touch
sensor indicating a problem. In this case, the obstruction (sometime the bed itself) needs to
be moved away from the probe. Once the probe is clear, the printer needs to be switched
o, then on again to clear the error. If the self test is successful, a solid light on the touch
sensor indicates you are ready to print.
Via USB or SD card, the GCode le is selected to start the print.
After heating the hotend, the printer rst needs to gure out where in 3D space it is. It rst
homes the X and Y axis to the front left of the machine, then homes the Z axis to the bed.
The point at which it stops is considered “home” or X0, Y0, Z0.
Next the printer moves to the position in the bed with which it is to start printing.
As the X and Y axis move, lament is pulled o the roll by the extruder, through the bowden
tube and down into the hotend where it melts and is set down onto the bed to create the
rst layer. After the rst layer is complete, the Z axis moves the pre dened amount (usually
between 0.1 and 0.3mm and the process repeats. At some stage, (dened in your slicer set-
tings) the “Part Blower Fan” starts up to cool each layer as it is printed.
Once the print is complete, the Hotend turns o and the printer remains idle.
At any stage, if the user detects a problem, the printer can be switched o, immediately stop-
ping the printer and causing the hotend to cool.
The printer has error detection to improve safely and detects when a hotend is not heating
correctly. When this occurs, the word DEC or DEF will appear on your LCD panel in the top
right. Printing will not continue until the error has been reset (by resetting the printer) and
the cause rectied.
Despite this, it is recommended the printer not be left unattended and regular maintenance
be undertaken to improve the safety of your printer - see our maintenance checklist for more
information.
Forward
Thank you for purchasing our agship 3D Printer, The Beast v2. The Beast V2 is the
Culmination of over 3 Years R&D and endless customer feedback. Having built so many
version 1 units ourselves, we quickly became aware of ways we could improve the V2
design to make it easier for those who are constructing the printer while improving the
function and reliability of the end product.
Building a 3D printer can be a daunt-
ing task. This build manual is writ-
ten for those who have never built
a 3D printer before. The only
assumed knowledge is that you
know how to use the tools and
xings such as screw driv-
ers, pliers, nuts and bolts
to achieve the pictured out-
comes. We will try to keep
the textual explanations to
a minimum with a focus on
providing clear, easy to un-
derstand graphics and pho-
tography.
Along the way, we’ll attempt
to explain why certain things
have been done the way they
have as some concepts may
seem confusing at rst with-
out this context.
If you’re having trouble with
any part of the build process,
feel free to contact us via
email at admin@cultivate3d.
com. When sending a support
email, please ensure you include
all the details required to help us assist you. If the printer is making an unexpected
noise, describe it to us. If something isn’t tting, please take a photo. The more de-
scriptive your support requests are, the better we are able to help you.
PAGE 5COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 4

3D Printing Workflow
Solid Modeling (CAD) Software
SD Card
Host Software (Print Via USB
From Computer)
Slicing Software (Slicer)
OR
CAUTION : Care of
Lead Screws and
Straight Rods
Lead screws are one of the most fragile part of your 3D Printer Kit. They bend easily.
We store, pack and handle the lead screws with a great deal of care. They are packed
with your straight rods to ensure they don’t bed during shipping.
NEVER store your lead screws upright, handle with both hands to support
them during construction and avoid placing downward pressure upon them
until they are installed fully in your printer. Simply picking them up by one
end can be enough to cause a signicant bow.
We have upgraded this lead screw to TR10/2mm specication to reduce the chances of
the component bending beyond practical use.
Regardless, getting perfectly straight lead screws across the length required for this 3D
printer is nearly impossible. During construction, you’ll notice the 12mm Rod / Lead
Screw holders at the top of the printer have a much larger diameter than the diameter
of the lead screw itself. This gap reduces the likely-hood of warps in the lead screw
from aecting the bed position. Not being contained at the top of the printer, allows
the bed to move through warps without aecting the X Y bed position. In combina-
tion, we have added 12mm straight rods to further constrain the bed position.
If your lead screws do become bent or warped, providing it’s not kinked or damaged,
the warp can usually we worked out suciently using the method shown in this vid-
eo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjJxYBZxNlU . Although it is preferable to use a
micrometer for this process, acceptable results can often be acheived “by eye” with 2
blocks, rotating the lead screw, identifying the high points and placing sucient down-
ward pressure to rectify - then repeating until straight. Again your lead screw need
not be dead straight to achieve excellent printing results as the printer is designed to
accommodate to some degree. If your Z axis binds easily, requires full power on your
Z stepper driver or has visually unacceptable lead screw warps. It may be a good idea
remove the lead screw and attempt to straighten it. We can supply replacement lead
screws (at a cost) should they become too bent to use. Contact Cultivate3D for more
information.
PAGE 7COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 6

Tools / Parts Required
Space to work
Ensure you have enough space to complete the Build. “The Beast” is a very large
printer. We estimate you will need at least 2 cubic meters to build and store your
printer. Given the size of the Printer, a small step ladder or platform may be benecial.
You may also need extra space to be able to remove and clean your print bed or to
change lament.
• Hex Socket driver set to suit M3 and M5 Socket
Screws
• Small and Medium Phillips and Flat head screw
driver
• Scalpel or craft knife
• Electric Drill with 3mm and 5mm drill bits, Phillips
and Hex driver-bits
• Small and Large Long Nose Pliers
• Wrench and Socket set to suit M3 and M5 nuts
• Small Side Cutters
• Soldering Iron (Optional)
• Cigarette Lighter
• Set Square
• Set of Allen Keys
• Soldering Iron / Solder
• Hot Glue Gun
• Lighter
Required Hardware
• Airbrush Needles (For clearing blocked hotends)
• Large Roll of Kapton Tape (Best Bed Surface for
Printing PETG or Blue Painters Tape for PLA)
• IEC C19 Cable (For your Heated Bed) (110V 15A,
240V 10A).
• 10A IEC C13 Cable (For your Power Supply)
• Filament to Print with : Recommended PLA or
PETG 1.75mm
• PTFE Grease
How To Use
This Manual
This manual is intended to be used a visual reference. Many of
the concepts herein are dicult to explain without images. Pay
particular attention to “notes” depicted by the symbol above.
These notes should not be ignored as they are critical to the
construction and or function of the nal product.
Look for part names and important information in BOLD.
All references to “Captive Nuts” will be documented, but not
instructed. These nuts MUST be pressed into their respective
holes with pliers. You may need to clean printing artefacts from
these holes in order to press the nut into it’s captive space.
Some printed parts may need to be “Finished” before use. This
may involve cleaning printed artefacts from the part or drilling
out holes to size prior to use in your printer.
All “T-Slot” Nuts should be installed with the threaded protrusion
side facing inwards or towards the Aluminium extrusion unless
otherwise specied.
Look for the repeat icon as shown to the left. This indicates
that the section of instructions needs to be repeated a number
of times to construct multiples of a particular part.
Take note, some sections of this manual are specic to certain
congurations of The Beast V2. Do not complete steps in sec-
tions which are intended for a dierent conguration to the one
you have purchased unless advised otherwise.
REPEAT
Build Time
Reference Photos
Building a 3D Printer is simple, as long as you have time, patience and the ability to learn.
Although this build can be completed in less than 48 hours, we recommend rst timers
give themselves plenty more time to complete their rst build. It is far better to take your
time with the knowledge everything is done right, than to rush the job and regret the
painful prospect of having to partially disassemble the printer to x something you missed.
More complex congurations such as 4x Synchronous will take longer to assemble.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1WDHUfW-OTW97w59Mk-59qEmOnPbH3YtK?usp=sharing
! Multimaterial Only
! Synchronous Only
! Single Hotend Only
! Direct Drive Only
PAGE 9COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 8

Acrylic Parts Reference
1x Enclosure Top 2x Y Transfer
Idler
2x X Mo-
tor Mount
1x Y Mo-
tor Mount
1x Enclosure Left
1x Enclosure Right
1x Door Left /
Right
1x Rear Enclosure
1x EE Base
1x EE Front
1x EE Top
1x EE Side
2x Front Bed
Mount
1x Rear Bed
Mount
2x Front Rod
Guide
2x
Endstop
Mount
(In Elec-
tronics
Box)
2x
Carriage
Brace
2 x Door
mount
* Front Single / Sync Hotend
Shroud (2x Units supplied with
Quad Setups for front hotends
only)
* Multimaterial Hotend Shroud
(1x Unit Supplied with MM
Setups)
(not to scale)
1x PSU
Mount
2x
Carriage
mount
1x LCD
Mount
*1-4x Fan Mount
*1-4x V6 Hotend
Mount
*1-4x V6 Locking
plate
*1x Pre Assem-
bled MultiMaterial
Hotend Mount
* Quantity of items may vary depending on product option purchased * Quantity of items may vary depending on product option purchased
1x Rear Rod
Guide
2x X Idler
2x Y Idler
Printed Parts Reference
3x 12mm Rod Brace * 4x Height Adjustment Stop * 1x BL-Touch Mount
(not to scale)
* 4x Single Hotend Fan Shroud * 1x Multi Material Fan Shroud * Sync Gantry Mount Block
* Small Sync Gantry Mount
Block
PAGE 11COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 10

Basic Frame
Identify the holes in each 1060mm vertical extrusion. The holes should
face inwards towards the center of the printer at the front and back
and be aligned so the holes are on the top most half of the printer.
Slide Each of the 4x 3D Corner Brackets into the Vertical 1060mm 3030 extru-
sions, then slide each horizontal 685mm extrusion into place as shown, then
secure in place with included grub screws.
Insert the top L Internal Brackets to the front and rear vertical extrusions and
temporarily secure with grub screws about half way down the extrusion. The
position of these will change later on.
Hole Direction Hole Direction
Slide 1x M3 Slide In T-Slot Nut into the top channel of the Makerslide extrusions as
shown and secure through the 2 front 3030 vertical extrusions with 1x M3 25mm
screws each. Repeat for the back vertical extrusions to secure the makerslide as
shown.
Slightly bend out the rear 2 vertical 3030 extrusions to allow room to slide the rear
top 3030 horizontal extrusion into place. Loosen the grub screws as necessary and
re-tighten to secure the 3030 extrusion in place approximately.
PAGE 13COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 12

Y Transfer Idlers and Rod
Install both Y Transfer Idlers as shown with M3 10mm screws and Twist In T-Slot
Nuts. Each Y Idler should then have an F608ZZ Bearing inserted with the ange on
the outer side.
Insert the 8mm Y Transfer Rod through the Y
Transfer Idlers as shown, xing a GT2 Pulley
to each side of the left hand Side Y Transfer
Idler as shown. Additionally t a GT2 Pulley
to the inside of the RIGHT Y Transfer Idler
Use M3 10mm screws to secure a Nema 17 Motor to the Y Motor Mount as shown.
Secure the Y Motor Mount to the rear left Vertical 3030 extrusion in position as shown
with M5 10mm Screws and Twist In T-Slot Nuts. Attach a GT2 Pulley to the motor
shaft as shown, ensuring the belt track of motors GT2 lines up with the Belt track of
the Y Transfer GT2 and secure in place with small grub screw(s).
Install the Short GT2 Belt between the Y
Motor and the Y Transfer Rod as shown. En-
sure the belt is in line.
Loosen the M5 Screws holding the Y Motor
Mount. Apply light downward pressure on
assembly to tighten belt, then x securely
by re-tightening M5 screws.
Y Motor & Mount
PAGE 15COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 14

Front Cross Member
Y Front Idlers
Install the front cross member and secure with Internal L Brackets as shown.
Assemble the Front Left and Right Y Idlers with an M5 25mm Screw, Front Y Idler
Mount, M5 Washer, 2 x F605ZZ (installed small face to small face) and M5 Nylock Nut
as shown, then x to the outside of both makerslide extrusions with 2x M3 10mm
screws and M3 Twist in T-Slot nuts.
Y Endstop
Move the Y Endstop Bracket (shown below) into position on the front left Y Makerslide Rail
and x with an M3 10mm screw and M3 Twist In T-Slot nut. You will need to adjust its po-
sition later to limit the movement of the Hotend Carriage and prevent it from colliding with
the front left Rod Guide.
M3 10mm Screw /
Twist In T-Slot Nut
PAGE 17COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 16

Delrin Wheels
Y Carrier Left and Right
Assemble 16x Delrin wheels as pictured. Each Delrin wheel assembly should consist
of 1x Delrin wheel, 2x RS625 Bearings with 1x Shim in the middle.
Assemble the left and right X carriers as shown with an M5 25mm Screw, up to 3x
M5 small washers together and nylock nut. Do not over-tighten, ensure wheels roll
smoothly.
REPEAT
REPEAT x2
Shim
Additional M5 Washers
may be used here to en-
sure wheels line up ex-
actly with rails when both
sides are installed.
Z Belt Idler
Assemble the Z Belt Idler as shown to the front lower horizontal with an M5 50mm
screw, Idler Plate, 25mm Spacer, 2x F605ZZ Bearings (installed small face to face)
and an M5 Nylock nut. Fix the Z Belt Idler Assembly to the Front Right Lower 3030
extrusion with 2 x M5 10mm screws and Twist In T-Slot Nuts.
PAGE 19COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 18