CULTIVATE 3D The Beast v2 Manual

Build Manual

Contents
Forward 4
How this (and most) 3D Printers work. 5
CAUTION : Care of
Lead Screws and Straight Rods 6
3D Printing Workow 7
Space to work 8
Tools / Parts Required 8
Build Time 9
How To Use This Manual 9
Acrylic Parts Reference 10
Printed Parts Reference 11
Basic Frame 12
Y Transfer Idlers and Rod 14
Y Motor & Mount 15
Front Cross Member 16
Y Front Idlers 16
Y Endstop 17
Delrin Wheels 18
Y Carrier Left and Right 18
Z Belt Idler 19
Y Carriage 20
Main Hotend Carriage 23
Rear Hotend Carriage Carrier 23
Front Hotend Carriage Carrier 24
Single Hotend Mount 25
Single / Sync Hotend Assembly 26
Multi Material Hotend 29
Direct Drive (Titan Aero) 31
Gantry Congurations 33
Synchronous Gantry Assembly 35
Hotend Shroud 38
Attach X Belts 39
Attach Y Belts 39
Z System 40
Bed Mounts 40
Front Rod Guides 41
12mm Rod and Rod Holders 42
Front Lead Screws 43
Rear Rod Guide 45
Z Motor and Lead Screw 45
Power Supply Unit (PSU) 48
Electronics Enclosure 49
LCD Mount 51
Bed Braces 52
Attach the Z Belt 53
The Print Bed 53
The Heated Bed 54
Calibrating the Bed 55
Extruder Panel 56
Titan Extruder(s) 57
Side, Rear Panels and Doors 58
Bowden Tube / Push-t 58
Top Door / Spool Holders 60
Filament Out Sensors 61
Apply Decal 62
Method for Extending Wires 63
Electrical Connections 63
Extending Blower Fans 64
Cable Chain 65
Prepare the ATX Power Supply 66
Identify Green Cable 67
Solder Heater Cartridge Wires. 68
Connect Green Cable 68
Install LED Light Strip. 69
Extend 3D Touch Wires 70
Extend All Wires 70
Extend Filament Out Sensor Wires 71
Tie Back Points 72
Run Cables Down to Electronics
Enclosure 73
Microstepping 74
Stepper Drivers 74
Connect 4x CPU Fan Adapter to 75
Electronics Board 75
Setting The Microstepping 75
Wiring Diagram 77
Stepper Expander 80
EEPROM 81
Firmware Overview 81
Using the Repetier Congurator 82
Repetier Host 82
Using the LCD Interface 83
Resetting EEPROM 83
LCD Contrast 84
Reset Button 84
3D Touch Sensor / Setting the Nozzle Height 85
Saving Settings From LCD 85
Filament Choice 86
Choosing the Right Bed Coating 86
The Heated Bed 87
MultiMaterial 2/1 Slicer Settings 88
GCode / Slicing your 3D Model 88
Auto Level Bed / Distortion Mapping 89
Getting the nozzle to the perfect printing height. 89
Blocked Hotends and how 90
to avoid them 90
2/1 Multimaterial Hotend 93
Components 93
2/1 Multimaterial Hotend 94
Re-Assembly 94
Maintenance Checklist 95
PAGE 3COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 2

How this (and most) 3D
Printers work.
Most 3D Printers are generic in the way they work, the parts they use and software they work
with. The Beast V2 is no exception. This is great, because it means should a problem arise
with this printer, chances are support, upgrades and parts can be used from another make /
model.
The 3D Printing process starts with the design creation of a part in CAD, solid modeling
software. An STL (solid model) le is then exported from the Solid Modeling Software and
imported into a Slicer.
Slicing software is where most of the printing parameters are set. Examples of Slicing
software are Slic3r (free), Cura (Free) and Simplify3D (paid) to name a few. A GCode le is
exported from the slicing software and printed via USB from a connected PC or copied to an
SD Card for printing.
When the printer is turned on, the Touch Sensor starts a self test, moving up and down to en-
sure no obstructions exist under the nozzle. If an error occurs, a light will ash on the touch
sensor indicating a problem. In this case, the obstruction (sometime the bed itself) needs to
be moved away from the probe. Once the probe is clear, the printer needs to be switched
o, then on again to clear the error. If the self test is successful, a solid light on the touch
sensor indicates you are ready to print.
Via USB or SD card, the GCode le is selected to start the print.
After heating the hotend, the printer rst needs to gure out where in 3D space it is. It rst
homes the X and Y axis to the front left of the machine, then homes the Z axis to the bed.
The point at which it stops is considered “home” or X0, Y0, Z0.
Next the printer moves to the position in the bed with which it is to start printing.
As the X and Y axis move, lament is pulled o the roll by the extruder, through the bowden
tube and down into the hotend where it melts and is set down onto the bed to create the
rst layer. After the rst layer is complete, the Z axis moves the pre dened amount (usually
between 0.1 and 0.3mm and the process repeats. At some stage, (dened in your slicer set-
tings) the “Part Blower Fan” starts up to cool each layer as it is printed.
Once the print is complete, the Hotend turns o and the printer remains idle.
At any stage, if the user detects a problem, the printer can be switched o, immediately stop-
ping the printer and causing the hotend to cool.
The printer has error detection to improve safely and detects when a hotend is not heating
correctly. When this occurs, the word DEC or DEF will appear on your LCD panel in the top
right. Printing will not continue until the error has been reset (by resetting the printer) and
the cause rectied.
Despite this, it is recommended the printer not be left unattended and regular maintenance
be undertaken to improve the safety of your printer - see our maintenance checklist for more
information.
Forward
Thank you for purchasing our agship 3D Printer, The Beast v2. The Beast V2 is the
Culmination of over 3 Years R&D and endless customer feedback. Having built so many
version 1 units ourselves, we quickly became aware of ways we could improve the V2
design to make it easier for those who are constructing the printer while improving the
function and reliability of the end product.
Building a 3D printer can be a daunt-
ing task. This build manual is writ-
ten for those who have never built
a 3D printer before. The only
assumed knowledge is that you
know how to use the tools and
xings such as screw driv-
ers, pliers, nuts and bolts
to achieve the pictured out-
comes. We will try to keep
the textual explanations to
a minimum with a focus on
providing clear, easy to un-
derstand graphics and pho-
tography.
Along the way, we’ll attempt
to explain why certain things
have been done the way they
have as some concepts may
seem confusing at rst with-
out this context.
If you’re having trouble with
any part of the build process,
feel free to contact us via
email at admin@cultivate3d.
com. When sending a support
email, please ensure you include
all the details required to help us assist you. If the printer is making an unexpected
noise, describe it to us. If something isn’t tting, please take a photo. The more de-
scriptive your support requests are, the better we are able to help you.
PAGE 5COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 4

3D Printing Workflow
Solid Modeling (CAD) Software
SD Card
Host Software (Print Via USB
From Computer)
Slicing Software (Slicer)
OR
CAUTION : Care of
Lead Screws and
Straight Rods
Lead screws are one of the most fragile part of your 3D Printer Kit. They bend easily.
We store, pack and handle the lead screws with a great deal of care. They are packed
with your straight rods to ensure they don’t bed during shipping.
NEVER store your lead screws upright, handle with both hands to support
them during construction and avoid placing downward pressure upon them
until they are installed fully in your printer. Simply picking them up by one
end can be enough to cause a signicant bow.
We have upgraded this lead screw to TR10/2mm specication to reduce the chances of
the component bending beyond practical use.
Regardless, getting perfectly straight lead screws across the length required for this 3D
printer is nearly impossible. During construction, you’ll notice the 12mm Rod / Lead
Screw holders at the top of the printer have a much larger diameter than the diameter
of the lead screw itself. This gap reduces the likely-hood of warps in the lead screw
from aecting the bed position. Not being contained at the top of the printer, allows
the bed to move through warps without aecting the X Y bed position. In combina-
tion, we have added 12mm straight rods to further constrain the bed position.
If your lead screws do become bent or warped, providing it’s not kinked or damaged,
the warp can usually we worked out suciently using the method shown in this vid-
eo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjJxYBZxNlU . Although it is preferable to use a
micrometer for this process, acceptable results can often be acheived “by eye” with 2
blocks, rotating the lead screw, identifying the high points and placing sucient down-
ward pressure to rectify - then repeating until straight. Again your lead screw need
not be dead straight to achieve excellent printing results as the printer is designed to
accommodate to some degree. If your Z axis binds easily, requires full power on your
Z stepper driver or has visually unacceptable lead screw warps. It may be a good idea
remove the lead screw and attempt to straighten it. We can supply replacement lead
screws (at a cost) should they become too bent to use. Contact Cultivate3D for more
information.
PAGE 7COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 6

Tools / Parts Required
Space to work
Ensure you have enough space to complete the Build. “The Beast” is a very large
printer. We estimate you will need at least 2 cubic meters to build and store your
printer. Given the size of the Printer, a small step ladder or platform may be benecial.
You may also need extra space to be able to remove and clean your print bed or to
change lament.
• Hex Socket driver set to suit M3 and M5 Socket
Screws
• Small and Medium Phillips and Flat head screw
driver
• Scalpel or craft knife
• Electric Drill with 3mm and 5mm drill bits, Phillips
and Hex driver-bits
• Small and Large Long Nose Pliers
• Wrench and Socket set to suit M3 and M5 nuts
• Small Side Cutters
• Soldering Iron (Optional)
• Cigarette Lighter
• Set Square
• Set of Allen Keys
• Soldering Iron / Solder
• Hot Glue Gun
• Lighter
Required Hardware
• Airbrush Needles (For clearing blocked hotends)
• Large Roll of Kapton Tape (Best Bed Surface for
Printing PETG or Blue Painters Tape for PLA)
• IEC C19 Cable (For your Heated Bed) (110V 15A,
240V 10A).
• 10A IEC C13 Cable (For your Power Supply)
• Filament to Print with : Recommended PLA or
PETG 1.75mm
• PTFE Grease
How To Use
This Manual
This manual is intended to be used a visual reference. Many of
the concepts herein are dicult to explain without images. Pay
particular attention to “notes” depicted by the symbol above.
These notes should not be ignored as they are critical to the
construction and or function of the nal product.
Look for part names and important information in BOLD.
All references to “Captive Nuts” will be documented, but not
instructed. These nuts MUST be pressed into their respective
holes with pliers. You may need to clean printing artefacts from
these holes in order to press the nut into it’s captive space.
Some printed parts may need to be “Finished” before use. This
may involve cleaning printed artefacts from the part or drilling
out holes to size prior to use in your printer.
All “T-Slot” Nuts should be installed with the threaded protrusion
side facing inwards or towards the Aluminium extrusion unless
otherwise specied.
Look for the repeat icon as shown to the left. This indicates
that the section of instructions needs to be repeated a number
of times to construct multiples of a particular part.
Take note, some sections of this manual are specic to certain
congurations of The Beast V2. Do not complete steps in sec-
tions which are intended for a dierent conguration to the one
you have purchased unless advised otherwise.
REPEAT
Build Time
Reference Photos
Building a 3D Printer is simple, as long as you have time, patience and the ability to learn.
Although this build can be completed in less than 48 hours, we recommend rst timers
give themselves plenty more time to complete their rst build. It is far better to take your
time with the knowledge everything is done right, than to rush the job and regret the
painful prospect of having to partially disassemble the printer to x something you missed.
More complex congurations such as 4x Synchronous will take longer to assemble.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1WDHUfW-OTW97w59Mk-59qEmOnPbH3YtK?usp=sharing
! Multimaterial Only
! Synchronous Only
! Single Hotend Only
! Direct Drive Only
PAGE 9COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 8

Acrylic Parts Reference
1x Enclosure Top 2x Y Transfer
Idler
2x X Mo-
tor Mount
1x Y Mo-
tor Mount
1x Enclosure Left
1x Enclosure Right
1x Door Left /
Right
1x Rear Enclosure
1x EE Base
1x EE Front
1x EE Top
1x EE Side
2x Front Bed
Mount
1x Rear Bed
Mount
2x Front Rod
Guide
2x
Endstop
Mount
(In Elec-
tronics
Box)
2x
Carriage
Brace
2 x Door
mount
* Front Single / Sync Hotend
Shroud (2x Units supplied with
Quad Setups for front hotends
only)
* Multimaterial Hotend Shroud
(1x Unit Supplied with MM
Setups)
(not to scale)
1x PSU
Mount
2x
Carriage
mount
1x LCD
Mount
*1-4x Fan Mount
*1-4x V6 Hotend
Mount
*1-4x V6 Locking
plate
*1x Pre Assem-
bled MultiMaterial
Hotend Mount
* Quantity of items may vary depending on product option purchased * Quantity of items may vary depending on product option purchased
1x Rear Rod
Guide
2x X Idler
2x Y Idler
Printed Parts Reference
3x 12mm Rod Brace * 4x Height Adjustment Stop * 1x BL-Touch Mount
(not to scale)
* 4x Single Hotend Fan Shroud * 1x Multi Material Fan Shroud * Sync Gantry Mount Block
* Small Sync Gantry Mount
Block
PAGE 11COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 10

Basic Frame
Identify the holes in each 1060mm vertical extrusion. The holes should
face inwards towards the center of the printer at the front and back
and be aligned so the holes are on the top most half of the printer.
Slide Each of the 4x 3D Corner Brackets into the Vertical 1060mm 3030 extru-
sions, then slide each horizontal 685mm extrusion into place as shown, then
secure in place with included grub screws.
Insert the top L Internal Brackets to the front and rear vertical extrusions and
temporarily secure with grub screws about half way down the extrusion. The
position of these will change later on.
Hole Direction Hole Direction
Slide 1x M3 Slide In T-Slot Nut into the top channel of the Makerslide extrusions as
shown and secure through the 2 front 3030 vertical extrusions with 1x M3 25mm
screws each. Repeat for the back vertical extrusions to secure the makerslide as
shown.
Slightly bend out the rear 2 vertical 3030 extrusions to allow room to slide the rear
top 3030 horizontal extrusion into place. Loosen the grub screws as necessary and
re-tighten to secure the 3030 extrusion in place approximately.
PAGE 13COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 12

Y Transfer Idlers and Rod
Install both Y Transfer Idlers as shown with M3 10mm screws and Twist In T-Slot
Nuts. Each Y Idler should then have an F608ZZ Bearing inserted with the ange on
the outer side.
Insert the 8mm Y Transfer Rod through the Y
Transfer Idlers as shown, xing a GT2 Pulley
to each side of the left hand Side Y Transfer
Idler as shown. Additionally t a GT2 Pulley
to the inside of the RIGHT Y Transfer Idler
Use M3 10mm screws to secure a Nema 17 Motor to the Y Motor Mount as shown.
Secure the Y Motor Mount to the rear left Vertical 3030 extrusion in position as shown
with M5 10mm Screws and Twist In T-Slot Nuts. Attach a GT2 Pulley to the motor
shaft as shown, ensuring the belt track of motors GT2 lines up with the Belt track of
the Y Transfer GT2 and secure in place with small grub screw(s).
Install the Short GT2 Belt between the Y
Motor and the Y Transfer Rod as shown. En-
sure the belt is in line.
Loosen the M5 Screws holding the Y Motor
Mount. Apply light downward pressure on
assembly to tighten belt, then x securely
by re-tightening M5 screws.
Y Motor & Mount
PAGE 15COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 14

Front Cross Member
Y Front Idlers
Install the front cross member and secure with Internal L Brackets as shown.
Assemble the Front Left and Right Y Idlers with an M5 25mm Screw, Front Y Idler
Mount, M5 Washer, 2 x F605ZZ (installed small face to small face) and M5 Nylock Nut
as shown, then x to the outside of both makerslide extrusions with 2x M3 10mm
screws and M3 Twist in T-Slot nuts.
Y Endstop
Move the Y Endstop Bracket (shown below) into position on the front left Y Makerslide Rail
and x with an M3 10mm screw and M3 Twist In T-Slot nut. You will need to adjust its po-
sition later to limit the movement of the Hotend Carriage and prevent it from colliding with
the front left Rod Guide.
M3 10mm Screw /
Twist In T-Slot Nut
PAGE 17COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 16

Delrin Wheels
Y Carrier Left and Right
Assemble 16x Delrin wheels as pictured. Each Delrin wheel assembly should consist
of 1x Delrin wheel, 2x RS625 Bearings with 1x Shim in the middle.
Assemble the left and right X carriers as shown with an M5 25mm Screw, up to 3x
M5 small washers together and nylock nut. Do not over-tighten, ensure wheels roll
smoothly.
REPEAT
REPEAT x2
Shim
Additional M5 Washers
may be used here to en-
sure wheels line up ex-
actly with rails when both
sides are installed.
Z Belt Idler
Assemble the Z Belt Idler as shown to the front lower horizontal with an M5 50mm
screw, Idler Plate, 25mm Spacer, 2x F605ZZ Bearings (installed small face to face)
and an M5 Nylock nut. Fix the Z Belt Idler Assembly to the Front Right Lower 3030
extrusion with 2 x M5 10mm screws and Twist In T-Slot Nuts.
PAGE 19COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 18

Y Carriage
Assemble and attach the X Motor Bracket and X Idler bracket to the rear of a 620mm
Makerslide Extrusion. Use M5 10mm screws with Flat T-Slot nuts to secure the 6mm
Laser Cut components to the makerslide. Ensure the Rail is on the opposite side to the
motor. For the X Idler, use 2x F605Z Bearings installed small face to small face as done
for the Y front idlers and Z Belt idler.
Attach the X Motor to the bracket as pictured with M3 10mm Screws and secure a GT2
Pulley to the motor shaft as pictured. Use a M5 25mm screw and Nylock nut to com-
plete the X Idler.
Move the X Endstop Bracket (shown below) into position and x with an M3 10mm screw
and Twist In M3 T-Slot nut. You will need to adjust its position later to limit the move-
ment of the Hotend Carriage and prevent it from colliding with the front left Rod Guide
View from Rear
View from Front
X Endstop
2x F605ZZ Installed Small
Face to Small Face
Attach the front and rear 620mm X Makerslide extrusions between the left and right
Y Carriers with 4x M5 10mm screws into the tapped holes in the makerslide as shown.
Ensure the rails on both extrusions are on the outer side of the assembly.
Drop the X Carriage into position along the Y Rails as shown. The carriage wheels
should make good contact with the Y Rails. If they do not, use M5 small washers to
pack out the wheels until good contact is made.
Insert additional washers here
PAGE 21COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 20

Finalize the assembly by constructing the lower 2 Eccentric Delrin wheels on both
the left and right Y carrier. M5 50mm Screws are used, with Washer, Eccentric Nut,
followed by another washer, Delrin wheel, Nylock Nut and GT2 Pulley. If additional
washers were required from previous step, ensure the same number are used for the
bottom wheels. Repeat for the other Y Carrier.
The complete Y Carriage should roll smoothly without locking. All Delrin wheels should
make good contact with the Y Rails. If they do not, rotate the Eccentric nut until good
rolling contact is made.
Main Hotend Carriage
Rear Hotend Carriage Carrier
This conguration is the simplest available and results in the largest available bed
space to print on as the carriage occupies less physical space than other congura-
tions. The Single Hotend Carriage is also the base carriage to which other congura-
tions are tted.
Assemble the Rear Hotend Carriage Carrier as shown. The upper 2 rear screws are
M5 25mm, the lower 2 screws are M5 35mm. Ensure small M5 washers are used to
prevent the bearings from touching the Acrylic part. M5 Nylock nuts should be used
to ensure the component does not come loose. The Acrylic part should be xed to a
125mm 2020 extrusion with 2 x M5 10mm Screws and Flat T-Slot Nuts. We recom-
mend the lower 2 Wheel / Eccentric Nut Assemblies be left loose enough to allow the
carrier to be tted to the X Rail, and tightened once in place.
PAGE 23COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 22

Front Hotend Carriage Carrier
The Front Hotend Carriage Carrier is identical to the rear except it has 2 x belt at-
tachment points made of 1x M5 35mm Screw, 25mm Nylon Spacer and T Slot Nut on
the left and 1x M5 35mm Screw, 25mm Nylon Spacer and Nylock Nut on the Right.
Both Carriers should be installed facing each other along opposing sides of the Y Car-
riage makerslide as pictured. Again, Eccentric nuts should be tightened only enough
to ensure the wheels make good contact with the rails WITHOUT ANY SLOP. Ensure
the Eccentric nuts are not too tight that the wheels bind.
Secure this screw though to a Flat T-Slot
Nut
M5 10mm Screw
with Flat T-Slot
Nut
Connect the two Carrier sides with the slotted 2020 extrusion. Use M5 25mm Screws
with M5 6/32 washers though to M5 Flat T-Slot nuts to secure as shown to complete
the basic Hotend Carriage.
Prior to completing these steps,
please ensure you have assem-
bled your E3D V6 according
to the E3D-Online Wiki here :
https://wiki.e3d-online.com/
E3D-v6_Documentation
Single Hotend Mount
! Single Hotend / 4x V6 Only
Slotted Extrusion
PAGE 25COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 24

Single / Sync Hotend Assembly
! Single Hotend / Repeat up to 4x for Synchronous
Begin by inserting 3x Phillips M3 8mm Screws into positions shown on the Fan
Shroud. These will serve as an anchor for your Hotend Shroud later. Tighten all
the way, then unscrew each 2.5 turns and push the blower fan onto the shroud
as shown below.
Insert the assembled V6 Hotend into the slot as shown
below. Install the Touch Sensor into position shown
with 2x M3 20mm Screws, through 2x 8mm Nylon
Spacers and secure with M3 Nylock Nuts.
Temporarily remove the V6 Cooling Fan Shroud to x
the Hotend Locking Plate in position using 2x M3 12mm
Screws and M3 Nuts (not shown). Ensure these M3 Nuts
are secured tightly.
To complete the assembly, slide the complete V6 Mount
into position on either the front / back or sync 2020
vertical extrusions (depending on your chosen cong-
uration). Fix on the front with 1x M5 8mm Screw and
Flat T-Slot Nut and on the side with 1x M3 10mm screw
and Twist in T-Slot nut. You can adjust the height of
the assembly later by loosening these screws.
Assemble the 4.5mm Fan Mount Plate and 6mm V6 Mount Plate as shown and
insert 2x M3 25mm screws through each of the holes in the blower fan, with the
lower protruding through to the captive M3 Nut in the V6 Mount Plate as shown.
Secure the 2020 corner bracket in position
shown with an M5 16mm Screw and M5
Nylock Nut. Secure the remaining 25mm
screw for the Blower fan with an M3 Nut .
8mm Nylon Spacers
Temporarily remove the
Fan shroud
M5 Flat T-Slot Nut
M3 Twist In T-Slot Nut
M3 10mm Screw
M5 8mm Screw
PAGE 27COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 26

Slide the Full Hotend Assembly on to the front 2020 Extrusion as shown. It is not im-
portant at this stage where the Hotend Assembling is positioned vertically. Prior to your
rst print, you will need to home the print bed as high as possible, then drop the Hotend
assembly to the bed by loosening the shown screws. The LCD Menu > Bed Coating
> Custom is then used set the distance of the nozzle(s) from the bed. It may also be
required to use the Firmware EEPROM “Z Probe Height” (described later) to dene the
probe oset from the bed.
! Single Hotend / Repeat up to 4x for Synchronous (*Attach each to Sync Gantry)
To adjust height, loosen
these two screws.
Multi Material Hotend
Assemble the Multimaterial hotend Mount as pictured, following the same basic principals
as documented for the Single Hotend Mount (on the previous page). First attached the Ho-
tend Cooling Fan to the Hotend with 4x 16mm Screws. 2 x M3 16mm Screws x directly to
the corresponding lower holes in the Acrylic Mount. These screws will cut their own thread
in the Acrylic part, so be careful not to over tighten these screws. Tighten Just enough to
create a rm connection and prevent any slop or movement in the hotend. Insert both M5
12mm Screws through the shown holes and loosely attach 2x M5 Flat T-Slot nuts.
Attach Touch Sensor to the Acrylic mount using 2x M3 12mm Screws and Nylock Nuts to
secure rmly.
PAGE 29COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 28

Push the Blower Fan onto the Blower Fan Shroud as far as you can. Next x blower fan
assembly to the Acrylic mount using an M3 30mm Screw and Nylock Nut at the top and an
M3 25mm Screw and Nut in the bottom hole.
Fix the 3x Short M3 Philips Screws into the positions shown. These will be used later as
mounting points for your hotend shroud.
Complete the assembly by sliding the Acrylic Mount
onto the Front Hotend Carriage Carrier and tighten-
ing M5 12mm screws. Don’t worry too much about
setting the height correctly just yet. You can adjust
is easily as required later in the build, rst checking
for clearance from other components and mounting
at a height which allows for the greatest Z travel.
Install this
M3 12mm Screw through the extrud-
er body, into the Acrylic Aero Bracket
and into the Lower right screw hole
of the Nema 17 Motor rst.
M3 35mm Screw
M3 40mm Screws
M3 6mm Screws with Nylock
Nuts
M3 25mm Screw
M3 10mm Screws
M3 Twist In T-Slot Nuts
M3 16mm Sheet Metal
Screws
M3 25mm Sheet Metal
Screws
Attach the Acrylic Aero Mount to the front vertical 2020 extrusion using 2x M3 10mm
Screws and M3 Twist in T-Slot Nuts. Loosely assemble the main body of the Titan extrud-
er using this online guide : https://wiki.e3d-online.com/Titan_Aero . Some exceptions will
occur as follows. The lower right (as shown) screw, rst attaches the Titan Body to the
Aero Mount and into the Motor with an M3 12mm Screw. The Aero Blower Fan shroud
is attached to the heat-sink as shown with M3 35mm Screws which are inserted rst into
the 2 holes of the blower fan shroud, then through the Aero Heat-sink, through the Titan
Extruder, Aero Mount, then ultimately screw into the Nema 17 Motor as shown below.
Attach the Touch Sensor to the holder and note the left most pictured screw should be
inserted upside-down to allow clearance for screwdriver. The holder is then mounted
to the Areo Fan as shown with 25mm “Plastic” (sheet metal) screws (Install this last, after
the m3 40mm scresw).
Direct Drive (Titan Aero)
PAGE 31COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 30

Pros
• Allows for largest
Prints
• Easy to assemble
• Full distortion map-
ping
• Less Hotends = Less
Maintenance
• Fastest Possible Sin-
gle Print Speed
• Can be either Mul-
timaterial or Single
Hotend
Pros
• Allows for large
prints
• Up to 2 identical
objects at the same
time
• Can be Multimaterial
or Single Hotends
• Second hotend can
be easily removed to
free space
• Flexible
• Easy to wire
• Bed
• Limited distortion
mapping
Single Hotend OR Multi Extrusion
Dual Hotend AND / OR Multi Extrusion
Cons
• No Sync Printing
Cons
• Max print XY Size
halved
• More maintenance
than single hotend
Gantry Configurations
Running the Printer in Synchronous conguration is a great way to speed up the printing of
Repetitively printed parts. Each conguration has its own set of pros and cons (Highlighted
Below) which should be considered prior to making a choice as to which conguration is
best for you. Note: You will only be supplied with the parts required to complete your
chosen conguration. Other congurations are possible. For details or spare parts, please
contact Cultivate3D.
PAGE 33COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 32

Pros
• Up to 3 identical
objects at the same
time
• Hotend 2/3 can be
easily removed for
single hotend (Max
bed size) or multi-
material printing
• Relatively easy to
wire
Pros
• Up to 3 identical
objects at the same
time
• Relatively easy to
wire
• Full Bed Available on
Y Axis
Pros
• Up to 4 identical
objects at the same
time
• 4 x square build
areas
Pros
• Up to 4 identical
objects at the same
time
• Full bed space avail-
able on Y Axis
3x Synchronous (Tri)
3x Synchronous (Inline)
4x Synchronous (Quad)
4x Synchronous (Inline)
Cons
• Bed size can be
compromised
• More hotends,
more mainte-
nance than Dual
or Single
• Limited distortion
mapping
Cons
• Bed size can be
compromised
• More hotends,
more mainte-
nance than Dual
or Single
• Limited distortion
mapping
Cons
• Bed size can be
compromised
• More hotends,
more mainte-
nance than Tri,
Dual or Single
• Limited distortion
mapping
• Most Dicult to
wire
Synchronous Gantry Assembly
Given the number of Synchronous Gantry congurations, it is impossible for each to be
documented. In this section, we will cover the methods of assembling the Synchronous
Gantry and the parts required. Each Gantry will attach to either the front or back (or both)
vertical 2020 Carrier sides.
If you purchased a Synchronous printing package, you will be supplied with 2x Quad Cross
Members for your gantries as pictured below. The Quad cross-member has 3 drilled holes
and the in-line has 5 drilled holes as pictured. Other cross members are available if you
wish to take advantage of In-line Sync Printing as pictured on the previous page. Please
contact our customer support for more information.
! Synchronous Only
PAGE 35COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 34

Attach the Sync Gantry Mount Block (printed part) to the front or rear 2020 vertical car-
riage extrusion as shown. Use an M5 25mm screw with M5 6/32 washer through the
center hole of the gantry into an M5 Flat T-Slot nut in the front channel of the carriers’
vertical 2020 extrusion. We recommend xing the gantry’s vertical position with the lower
edge of the Sync Gantry Mount Block approximately 20mm from the lower edge of the
vertical 2020 extrusion as shown.
! Synchronous Only (Repeat Front and Back if required)
For “Single Sync / Hotend Assembly” (Page 23), attach all hotends to the gantries as
pictured (For 4x Sync). For 3x Sync (Tri), one hotend should be attached to the main
front 2020 vertical extrusion, and 2 to the rear left and right gantry as pictured below.
Take note: Only the primary hotend is tted with a Touch Sensor. This
applies to all Synchronous congurations. For reference, the front most
hotend to the left will be the primary hotend (Hotend 1).
PAGE 37COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 36

Each hotend type comes with it’s own shroud. Hotend shrouds will be provided for the
front facing hotend(s) only. Hotend shrouds are tted to the Fan Shroud printed parts
via Phillips screws (installed earlier) as pictured below. An aesthetic feature, the hotend
shrouds should be left o until each hotend has been conrmed working.
Hotend Shroud
Multimaterial Hotend Shroud
Attach Y Belts
Attach X Belts
Wrap both Y Belts around each of the GT2 Pulleys at the back of the printer then run
around the Y Idlers at the front with each open end being wrapped around the GT2 Pul-
leys on the lower axles of the Y carriage. Belts should be pulled tight and xed in place
with Zip ties as shown below. Repeat for both left and right sides. Belt should be taught
with no slack, but not over tightened.
The X Belt should be wrapped around the GT2 Pulley on the motor shaft, returned around
the opposite X Idler , tightened and attached to each of the 25mm spaces on the X Car-
riage as shown. Again Belt should be taught, with no slack. Not overtightened as it will
increase load on the X motor. See picture.
Tighten and Fix Belts
with Zip Ties here
Tighten and Fix Belts
with Zip Ties here
PAGE 39COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3D COPYRIGHT © 2018 CULTIVATE 3DPAGE 38