
Motor Installation
Mount the motor using high grade 1/4" or 6mm dia. bolts with washers and locking nuts on the rear
of the firewall. Make sure your firewall is structurally sound. The crankshaft centerline is in the exact
center of the rear mounting plate bolt pattern.
Make sure the carburetor's idle set screw is removed or set so that the carb can be fully closed by
the servo at low trim. Use a high quality servo for the throttle. A poor quality servo or linkage will not
provide accurate and repeatable throttle settings. Don't use metal to metal linkages.
You can un-hook, but don't remove, the throttle return spring if the motor is not going to be bench
run. The spring helps to limit shaft wear due to vibration.
Do not try to rotate the carburetor 180 deg. on the mounting block, or remove the butterfly shaft
assembly.
The carburetor should have at least 1”(25mm) of clearance between the intake and the bottom of the
cowl. If there is less than 1", make an opening in the cowl below the carb at least as large as the
carb intake diameter.
Since the carburetor must often be adjusted differently with the cowl on as compared to off, we
recommend small access holes be made in the cowl for adjusting the needle valves with a long,
narrow, screw driver. Sometimes the needles can be reached through the cowl's openings for the
exhaust system.
A 50 oz. fuel tank (Approx 10 minute flight time) is the minimum size recommended. The tank must
be vented. The carb has a strong pump, so the tank can be mounted almost anywhere in the
airframe. The fuel line and tank stopper must be gas compatible. Do not use any silicone sealers on
the fuel system. Gas can break it down and carry it into the carb.
The inner diameter of the fuel tubing should be the same or larger than the carburetor's fuel inlet
fitting's inner diameter. 1/8” I.D. is recommended. Make sure all fuel line connections are secure.
Small nylon zip ties work well to keep the fuel line on the metal fittings. Make sure the fuel line is
secure and not touching the exhaust or cylinder fins. An inline fuel filter can be used, but we prefer
filter the fuel entering the fuel tank from your field container.
Cooling is critical to motor performance and longevity. Allow as much cooling air as
possible in through the front inlets of the cowl. Provide an outlet opening approximately 2
1/2 times larger than the intake at the bottom rear of the cowl for the hot air to escape. Most
factory outlet openings are not large enough! A lip or air dam protruding down and rearward
from the leading edge of the air out let will create negative air pressure (suction) to help pull
hot air out of the cowl.
Air must flow through the cylinder fins, not just inside the cowl, to properly cool the motor.
Don't let the air take the easy way out! Use ducting to make it go through the fins. Round
cowls with large frontal openings still need ducting to direct the air through the cylinder fins
Air ducts can be made from thin plywood, balsa, fiberglass, or aluminum sheet to guide and force air
from the front inlets to and through the cylinder fins.
Depending on the location of the exhaust system, and cowl airflow, the carburetor may need some
air cooling also. A hot carb can be erratic in flight or make the motor hard to restart. Sometimes
placing heat shielding material between the exhaust and carburetor can help.
Keep components like the ignition system, fuel tank, fuel lines, receivers, etc, shielded from heat
generated by canister and tuned pipe exhaust systems. Hot fuel tanks and fuel lines can cause
frustrating tuning issues, and over heated electronic components can have intermittent problems or
total failures.
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