Directed Electronics 430 Series User manual

© 1999 Directed Electronics, Inc.Vista, CA 1
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430 Series
Installation Guide
Table of Contents
Experienced security installers may skip to Pg. 8, but read
all the italicized sections, as they describe changes and/or new features.
Installation Points to Remember .........................................................2
Deciding on Component Location.......................................................3
Finding theWires you Need.................................................................5
Step-by-step meter instructions!
Making yourWire Connections............................................................7
Primary Harness Diagram ....................................................................8
Wire Connection Guide ........................................................................9
Plug in LED andValet®/Program Switch..............................................11
Four-pin Shock Sensor Harness..........................................................11
Bypassing Sensor Inputs.....................................................................12
Door LockWiring Diagrams .................................................................12-15
Transmitter/Receiver Learn Routine™..................................................16
Two-vehicle Operation with SingleTransmitter..................................17
Operating-Settings Learn Routine™......................................... 18
New Double Pulse Unlock Feature
Feature Descriptions ............................................................................20
Nuisance Prevention®Circuitry ............................................................21
Valet®Mode ............................................................................................21
Table of Zones .......................................................................................22
Troubleshooting ....................................................................................22
Directed Electronics, Inc.
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Do not disconnect the battery if the vehicle has an anti-theft-coded radio. If equipped with an air bag, avoid discon-
necting the battery if possible.
IMPORTANT! Many airbag systems will display a diagnostic code through their warning light after they lose
power.Disconnecting the battery requires this code to be erased, a procedure that can require a trip to the
dealer.
Before beginning the installation:
• Check with the customer on Status LED location.
• Remove the domelight fuse.This prevents accidentally draining the battery.
• Roll down a window to avoid being locked out of the car.
After the install:
• Test all functions.The "UsingYour System" section of the Owner's Guide is very helpful when testing.
• When testing, don’t forget that this system is equipped with Nuisance Prevention®Circuitry. NPC™can
bypass trigger zones, making them appear to stop working.(See page 21)
Two 471T
remote
transmitters
514N
Revenger®
Soft Chirp®
siren
Plug-in
Status LED
Plug-in
Valet®/Program
switch
INSTALLATION POINTSTO REMEMBER
Primary
harness
H1
3-pin
2-wire
door
lock
harness
504D Plug-in
Stinger®shock
sensor
2-pin
mini
blue
Valet®/
Program
plug
2-pin
micro
LED
plug
4-pin shock
sensor plug
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Step One:
Deciding on Component Locations
Siren
Some things to remember when mounting the siren:
• Keep it away from heat sources. Radiators, exhaust manifolds, turbochargers, and heat shields are all
things to avoid.
• Mount it where a thief cannot easily disconnect it, whether the hood is open or shut.Both the siren and
its wires should be difficult to find.This usually involves disguising the wire to look like a factory harness.
• We recommend against grounding the siren to its
mounting screws. Instead, we recommend running both
the red and black wires into the passenger compartment
and grounding to one common point for all devices.After
all, both wires are the same length and come already
bonded together.Whenever possible, conceal your wires
in the factory harnesses or in the same style loom as the
factory.
• When possible, put the siren on the same side of the
vehicle as the control module, where its wires will reach
the control module’s wires without extending them.
Always run the wires through the center of a grommet,
never through bare metal!
• Point the siren down so water does not collect in it.
Control Module
Never put the control module in the engine compartment!
The first step in hot-wiring a vehicle is removing the driver's side under-dash panel to access the starter and ignition
wires.If the control module is placed just behind the driver's side dash it can easily be disconnected.
When locating the control module, try to find a secure location that will not require you to extend the harnesses’
wires (they are 1.5 meters long). Keep it away from the
heater core (or any other heat sources) and any obvious
leaks.
The higher the control module is in the vehicle, the better
the transmitter range will be. If you put the control module
under a seat or inside a metal dashboard, range will suffer,
and you may wish to add a 542T Range Extending
Antenna (available separately).
Some good control module locations: Above the glove box,
inside the center console, above the under-dash fuse box,
above the radio, etc.
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4© 1999 Directed Electronics, Inc.Vista, CA
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Stinger
®
Doubleguard
®
Shock Sensor
Never put the Stinger®in the engine compartment!
Find a spot close to the control module so that the wires do not need to be extended. Keep it away from the heater
core (or any other heat sources) and any obvious leaks.
How the Stinger is mounted is the most important factor in its performance.We recommend two mounting methods:
Using double-sided tape or hook-and-loop fastener to mount to a trim panel or an air duct, or wire-tying to a wire
harness. If mounting the sensor where it cannot be easily reached for adjustment, hook-and-loop fastening tape
(such as Velcro) is recommended for ease of removal for future adjustments.
NOTE: In many vehicles, tying the sensor to a steering column or screwing it to metal will result in poor
sensitivity, especially on the rear of the vehicle.
Valet®Program Switch
Ensure that the location you pick for the switch has sufficient clearance to the rear.The switch should be well hidden.
It should be placed so passengers or stored items (such as in a glove box or center console) cannot accidentally hit
it.The switch fits in a 9/32" hole.
This system has RemoteValet®.The user can enter and exit Valet®Mode without having to reach theValet®/program
switch. DEI®introduced this feature so that switch location was less critical in day-to-day use. As long as the
Valet®/program switch can be reached to disarm without a transmitter, easy access is not important.
IMPORTANT! When the vehicle is delivered, please show the user where the switches are located and how
to disarm the system with it.
Status LED
Things to remember when positioning the Status LED:
• It should be visible from both sides and the rear of the vehicle, if possible.
• It needs at least 1/2" clearance to the rear.
• It is easiest to use a small removable panel, such as a switch blank or a dash
bezel.Remove it before drilling your 9/32" hole.
• Use quick-disconnects near the LED wires if the panel is removable. This lets
mechanics or other installers remove the panel without cutting the wires.
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Optional Starter Kill Relay
If Starter Kill Relay or its connections are immediately visible upon removal of the under-dash panel, they can easily
be bypassed.Always make the relay and its connections difficult to discern from the factory wiring! Exposed yellow
butt connectors do not look like factory parts, and will not fool anyone! For this reason, routing the starter kill wires
away from the steering column is recommended.
Step 2:
Finding theWiresYou Need
Now that you have decided where each component will be located, you’re going to find the wires in the car that the
security system will be connected to.
IMPORTANT! Do not use a 12V test light to find these wires! All testing described in this manual is
described using a digital multimeter.
Obtaining Constant 12V
We recommend two possible sources for 12V constant:The (+) terminal of the battery, or the constant supply to the
ignition switch. Always install a fuse within 12 inches of this connection.If the fuse also will be powering other
circuits, such as door locks, a power window module, a Nite-Lite®headlight control system, etc.;fuse accordingly.
IMPORTANT! Do not remove the fuse holder on the red wire.It ensures that the control module has its own
fuse, of the proper value, regardless of how many accessories are added to the main power feed.
Finding the 12V Switched IgnitionWire
The ignition wire is powered when the key is in the run or start position.This is because the ignition wire powers the
ignition system (spark plugs, coil) as well as the fuel delivery system (fuel pump, fuel injection computer).Accesso-
ry wires, on the other hand, lose power when the key is in the start position to make more current available to the
starter motor.
How to find (+)12V ignition with your multimeter:
1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the ignition wire. The steering column
harness or ignition switch harness is an excellent place to find this wire.
4. Turn the ignition key switch to the run position.If your meter reads (+)12V, go to
the next step. If it doesn’t, probe another wire.
5. Now turn the key to the start position.The meter display should stay steady, not
dropping by more than a few tenths of a volt. If it drops close to or all the way to
zero, go back to step 3. If it stays steady at (+)12V, you have found an ignition
wire.
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6© 1999 Directed Electronics, Inc.Vista, CA
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Finding a (+) Parking IightWire
The (+) parking light wire is often found near the switch.Many cars have the switch built into the turn signal lever, and
in these cars the parking light wire can be found in the steering column.The same wire is often available in the kick
panel or running board.
NOTE: ManyToyotas, as well as many other Asian vehicles, send a (-) signal from the switch to a relay.The
relay then sends 12V(+) to the bulbs.Whenever you have difficulty finding a (+) parking light wire near the
switch, simply test the wires at any switch or control panel which is lit by the instrument panel lighting.
Remember, you need a (+) parking light wire that does not vary with dimmer setting.
How to find a (+) parking light flash wire with your multimeter
1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the parking light wire. Usually,
the area near the headlight/parking light switch is an excellent area
to start, as is the kick panel.
4. Turn on the parking lights. If your meter shows (+)12V, turn off the
parking lights and make sure it goes back to zero.
5. If it does return to zero, turn the parking lights back on and, using the dash light dimmer control, turn the
brightness of the dash lights up and down. If the meter changes more than a volt when using the
dimmer, look for another wire.If it stays relatively close to (+)12V, you have found your parking light wire.
Finding the Door Pin Switch Circuit
The best places to find the door switch wire are:
At the pin switch:When testing at the pin switch, check the wire to ensure that it “sees” all the doors.Often,
the passenger switch will cover all the doors even if the driver’s switch will not.
At the dome light:This may not be your best choice if the vehicle has delayed domelight supervision, but it
will work in many Hondas, or any vehicle with completely diode-isolated pin switches.
Once you have determined the wire color, the easiest place to connect to the wire is often at the kick panel, at the
windshield pillar, or in the running board. When an easy location is not available, running a wire to the domelight
itself is often the best solution.
How to find a door pin switch trigger wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
2. In most Fords, fasten the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground. In most other cars, fasten the (+)
probe of your meter to (+)12V constant.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door trigger wire. If the meter reads (+)12V when any door is
opened, you have found a trigger wire.
NOTE: Make sure the wire you use “sees” all the doors! Some newer GM vehicles lack standard-type pin
switches.The dome light in these vehicles is turned on when the door handle is lifted.These usually have a
blue/white or white coming out of the door into the kick panel which will provide a (-) trigger for all doors.
Some GM vehicles (some Cavaliers, Grand Ams, etc.) have a yellow wire coming out of the door which
provides a (+) door trigger.
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How to find the (+)12V starter wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the starter wire. The steering
column is an excellent place to find this wire. Remember you do not
need to interrupt the starter at the same point you test it. Hiding your
starter kill relay and connections is always recommended.
4. Turn the ignition key switch to the start position. Make sure the car is not in gear! If your meter reads
(+)12V, go to the next step. If it doesn’t, probe another wire.
5. Cut the wire you suspect of being the starter wire.
6. Attempt to start the car. If the starter engages, reconnect it and go back to step 3.If the starter does not
turn over, you have the right wire.
Step 3:
MakingYour Wire Connections
Before making your connections, plan how your wires will be routed through the vehicle. For instance, the yellow
ignition input, the red 12V constant input, and the orange ground-when-armed output (for the optional starter kill
relay) will often be routed together to the ignition switch harness.In order to keep the wiring neat and make it harder
to find, you may wish to wrap these wires together in electrical tape or conceal them in tubing similar to what the man-
ufacturer used.
There are two acceptable ways of making a wire connection: Solder connections and crimp connectors.When prop-
erly performed, either type of connection is reliable and trouble-free. Regardless of whether you solder your
connections or you use mechanical-type crimp-on connections, ensure that all connections are mechanically sound
and that they are insulated.
Cheap electrical tape, especially when poorly applied, is not a reliable insulator. It often falls off in hot weather.Use
good-quality electrical tape or heat shrink.
Never twist-and-tape the wires together without soldering.
Never use “fuse taps,” as they can damage fuse box terminals.
If you use tapping connectors such as 3M T-Taps (not to be confused with Scotch-Locks), avoid using them in
higher-current applications (constant 12V, ground, etc.).Some tapping connectors are inferior in quality and should
be avoided.
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8© 1999 Directed Electronics, Inc.Vista, CA
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PRIMARY HARNESS DIAGRAM H1, 12-PIN CONNECTOR
ORANGE (-) 500 MA ARMED OUTPUT
WHITE (+) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT
WHITE/BLUE NOT USED
BLACK/WHITE NOT USED
GREEN (-) DOORTRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3
BLUE (-) INSTANTTRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 1
VIOLET (+) DOORTRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3
BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT
YELLOW (+) SWITCHED IGNITION INPUT, ZONE 5
BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT
RED (+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT
RED/WHITE (-) 200 MA CHANNEL 2 VALIDITY OUTPUT
H1/1
H1/2
H1/3
H1/4
H1/5
H1/6
H1/7
H1/8
H1/9
H1/10
H1/11
H1/12
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WIRE CONNECTION GUIDE
H1/1 ORANGE (-) ground-when-armed output: This wire supplies a (-) 500 mA ground as long as the system is
armed.This output ceases as soon as the system is disarmed.This wire is used to control the optional 8618 starter
kill relay.The 8617 relay assembly may also be used as shown in the diagram below.
NOTE: If connecting the orange wire to control another module, such as a 529T or 530T window controller,
a 1 amp diode (type 1N4004) will be required. Insert the diode as shown below.
IMPORTANT! Never interrupt any wire other than the starter wire.
H1/2 WHITE (+) light flash output: This wire should be connected to the (+) parking light wire, as described in the
“Finding the wires you need”section of this manual.This output is protected with a 7.5 amp fuse. Never increase the
value of the light flash fuse. If more current is required, use an external relay.
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H1/5 GREEN (-) door trigger or H1/7 VIOLET (+) door trigger input: If the door switch wire you found is (-) when the
door is open, connect the GREEN wire to it. If the door switch wire you found is (+) when the door is open, use the
VIOLET wire instead.
IMPORTANT! Test to make sure this wire "sees" all doors!
H1/6 BLUE (-) instant trigger:This input will respond to a (-)input with an instant trigger. It is ideal for hood and trunk pins and will
report on zone one.If connecting several inputs to this wire.They Should be diode isolated as shown below .
H1/8 BLACK (-) chassis ground connection. Connect this wire to bare metal, preferably with a factory bolt rather
than your own screw (screws tend to either strip or loosen with time). We recommend grounding all your compo-
nents to the same point in the vehicle.
H1/9 YELLOW (+) ignition input. Connect this wire to an ignition wire as described on page 5.This wire must show
+12V with the key in run position and during cranking.Take great care that this wire cannot be shorted to the chassis
at any point.
H1/10 BROWN (+) siren output: Connect this to the red wire of the Revenger®siren. Connect the black wire of the
siren to (-) chassis ground, preferably at the same point you grounded the control module’s H1/8 BLACK wire.
NOTE: REMOVE ANY PAINT
BELOW RING CONNECTOR
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