Drolet Optima DB03210 User manual

READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE
45570A
Printed in Canada 15-10-2014
Installation and Operation Manual
Optima (DB03210 model)
US ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY PHASE II CERTIFIED
WOOD STOVE
Safety tested according to ULC S627, UL 737
and UL 1482 Standards
by Intertek Testing Services
www.drolet.ca
Stove Builder International Inc.
250, rue de Copenhague, St-Augustin-de-Desmaures
(Quebec) Canada G3A 2H3
Tel: [phone] Fax: [phone]
This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a
copyrighted document. Re-sale is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update this
manual from time to time and cannot be responsible for problems, injuries, or damages
arising out of the use of information contained in any manual obtained from unauthorized
sources.

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THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS DROLET WOOD STOVE
As one of North America’s largest and most respected wood stove and fireplace manufacturers,
Stove Builder International takes pride in the quality and performance of all its products. We want to
help you get maximum satisfaction as you use this product.
In the pages that follow you will find general advice on wood heating, detailed instructions for safe
and effective installation, and guidance on how to get the best performance from this stove as you
build and maintain fires, and maintain your wood heating system.
We recommend that our wood burning hearth products be installed and serviced by professionals
who are certified in the United States by NFI (National Fireplace Institute
®
) or in Canada by WETT
(Wood Energy Technical Training) or in Quebec by APC (Association des Professionnels du
Chauffage).
Congratulations on making a wise purchase.
When this stove is not properly installed, a house fire may result. To reduce the risk of fire,
follow the installation instructions. Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions
and installation inspection requirements in your area.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new stove. Failure to follow
instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death. It is important that
you follow the installations guidelines exactly.
You may need to obtain a building permit for the installation of this stove and the chimney
that it is connected to. Consult your municipal building department or fire department before
installation to determine the need to obtain one. We recommend that you also inform your
home insurance company to find out if the installation will affect your policy.
REGISTER YOUR WARRANTY ONLINE
To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show
evidence of the date you purchased your stove. Keep your sales
invoice. We also recommend that you register your warranty
online at:
http://www.drolet.ca/en/service-support/warranty-registration
Registering your warranty online will help us to quickly track the
information we need about your stove.

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Table of content
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE..................................6
1 Safety Information...............................................................................6
1.1 Summary of Operation and Maintenance Cautions and Warnings.........................6
2 General Information............................................................................7
2.1 Optima Specifications.............................................................................................7
2.2 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You.....................................................9
2.3 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency .............................................10
2.4 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment ..............................................10
2.4.1 What is Your New Stove Made Of?...................................................................10
3 Fuel......................................................................................................11
3.1 Materials That Should Not be Burned...................................................................11
3.2 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood................................................................11
3.2.1 What is Good Firewood?...................................................................................11
3.2.2 Tree Species .....................................................................................................11
3.2.3 Log Length.........................................................................................................11
3.2.4 Piece Size..........................................................................................................12
3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood.........................................................................................12
3.2.6 Where to store wood .........................................................................................14
3.2.7 Judging Firewood Moisture Content..................................................................14
3.3 Manufactured Logs...............................................................................................15
4 Operating Your Stove .......................................................................16
4.1 The use of a fire screen........................................................................................16
4.2 Your First Fires .....................................................................................................16
4.3 Lighting Fires........................................................................................................16
4.3.1 Conventional Fire Starting.................................................................................17
4.3.2 The Top Down Fire............................................................................................17
4.3.3 Two Parallel Logs..............................................................................................17
4.3.4 Using Fire Starters.............................................................................................18
4.4 Maintaining Wood Fires........................................................................................18
4.4.1 General Advice..................................................................................................18
4.4.2 Ash Removal.....................................................................................................18
4.4.3 Raking Charcoal................................................................................................19
4.4.4 Firing Each New Load Hot.................................................................................20
4.4.5 Turning Down the Air Supply.............................................................................20
Building Different Fires for Different Needs ...................................................................21

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5 Maintaining Your Wood Heating System.......................................23
5.1 Stove Maintenance...............................................................................................23
5.1.1 Cleaning Door Glass .........................................................................................23
5.1.2 Door adjustment................................................................................................24
5.1.3 Replacing the Door Gasket................................................................................24
5.1.4 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass...................................................24
5.1.5 Cleaning and Painting the Stove .......................................................................25
5.2 Chimney and Chimney Connector Maintenance...................................................25
5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary................................................................25
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney?.....................................................25
5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney.......................................................................................26
PART B - INSTALLATION ...................................................................27
6 Safety Information.............................................................................27
6.1 Summary of Installation Cautions and Warnings ..................................................27
6.2 Regulations Covering Stove Installation ...............................................................27
7 Clearances to Combustible Material...............................................28
7.1 Location of the certification label...........................................................................28
7.2 Clearances to Walls and Ceiling...........................................................................28
7.3 Floor protector ......................................................................................................30
7.4 Reducing Wall and Ceiling Clearances Safely......................................................30
7.4.1 Shield Construction Rules .................................................................................31
7.4.2 Table of Clearance Reduction Percentages......................................................32
8 The Venting System...........................................................................33
8.1 General.................................................................................................................33
8.2 Suitable Chimneys................................................................................................33
8.2.1 Factory-built Metal Chimneys............................................................................33
8.2.2 Masonry Chimneys............................................................................................34
8.3 Minimum Chimney Height.....................................................................................34
8.4 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House.......................................35
8.4.1 Why inside chimneys are preferred...................................................................35
8.4.2 Why the chimney should penetrate the highest heated space...........................35
8.5 Supply of Combustion Air .....................................................................................36
8.5.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses ...................................................................36
8.6 Installing the Chimney Connector.........................................................................37
8.6.1 Installation of Single Wall Chimney Connector..................................................37

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Appendix 1: Installing the Fresh Air Intake Kit (AC01334)...............39
Appendix 2: Installing the Fire Screen (AC01319)...............................40
Appendix 3: Use of the Blower and Optional Thermodisc ..................41
Appendix 4: Exploded Diagram and Parts List....................................42
LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY....................................................44

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PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
Please see Part B for installation instructions.
1 Safety Information
1.1 Summary of Operation and Maintenance Cautions and Warnings
•HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY.
CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR STOVE
OPERATION.
•USING A STOVE WITH CRACKED OR BROKEN COMPONENTS, SUCH AS GLASS OR
FIREBRICKS OR BAFFLES MAY PRODUCE AN UNSAFE CONDITION AND MAY DAMAGE
THE STOVE.
•OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY BEFORE OPENING FIRING DOOR.
•THIS STOVE HAS BEEN TESTED FOR USE WITH AN OPEN DOOR IN CONJUNCTION WITH
A FIRE SCREEN (AC01319, SOLD SEPARATELY). THE DOOR MAY BE OPEN OR FIRE
SCREEN REMOVED ONLY DURING LIGHTING PROCEDURES OR RELOADING. ALWAYS
CLOSE THE DOOR OR PUT BACK THE FIRE SCREEN AFTER IGNITION. DO NOT LEAVE
THE STOVE UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS OPENED WITH OR WITHOUT FIRE
SCREEN.
•NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR
OIL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO
START OR ‘FRESHEN UP’ A FIRE IN THIS STOVE. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR
AEROSOLS WELL AWAY FROM THE STOVE WHILE IT IS IN USE.
•DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN HEATER MINIMUM INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
•BURN ONLY SEASONED NATURAL FIREWOOD.
•DO NOT BURN:
oGARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
oCOAL OR CHARCOAL,
oTREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
oPLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
oFINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
oSALT WATER DRIFTWOOD, OR
oRAILROAD TIES.
•DO NOT ELEVATE THE FIRE BY USING A GRATE IN THIS STOVE.
•THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN
ACCORDANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.

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•
2 General Information
2.1 Optima Specifications
Fuel Type Cordwood
Test Standards (safety) ULC S627, UL 737 and UL 1482
Test Standard (emissions) EPA Method 28 (40 CFR Part 60)
Heating capacity range* 500 to 1700 sq. ft. (46,5 to 157,9 m
2
)
Maximum heat output**
(EPA test fuel) 29 300 BTU/h (8,6 kW/h)
Maximum heat output**
(natural hardwood fuel) 65 000 BTU/h (19,0 kW/h)
Optimum efficiency 77 %
Test Standard (efficiency) CSA B415.1-10
Approximate Burn Time 3 to 5 hours
Shipping Weight 330 lb (150 kg)
Firebox Volume 1,6 cu.ft. (0,045 m
3
)
Maximum Log Length 22" east-west***
Flue Outlet Diameter: 6" (150 mm) diameter (vertical)
Baffle Material Steel and firebrick
* Combustion autonomy and heating capacity may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft,
chimney diameter, locality, heat loss factors, climate or fuels.
** The EPA test fuel is dimensional Douglas fir pieces stapled together into cribs with air spaces
between. We also test using the same procedure except using split hardwood firewood to reflect real-
world heat output. This stove is not intended to operate at its peak heat output continuously.
*** East-west: through the door you see the sides of the logs; north-south: through the door you see
the ends of the logs

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2.2 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You
Your new Optima wood stove is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the area it is
installed in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower temperature. This is
called zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular space within
a home, such as a basement family room or an addition that lacks another heat source.
Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly sized and
located wood stove. Whole house zone heating works best when the stove is located in the part of
the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally the main living area where the
kitchen, dining and living rooms are located. By locating the stove in this area, you will get the
maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will achieve the highest possible heating efficiency and
comfort. The space where you spend most of your time will be warmest, while bedrooms and
basement (if there is one) will stay cooler. In this way, you will burn less wood than with other forms of
heating.
Although the stove may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate
temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric heating
system to provide back up heating.
Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing and
location of the stove, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone. Three-season
vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller stoves than houses that are heated all winter.

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2.3 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the Optima firebox mean that your
household will release up to 90 percent less smoke into the outside environment than if you used an
older conventional stove. But there is more to the emission control technologies than protecting the
environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content of the
fuel. By burning the wood completely, your stove releases all the heat energy from the wood instead
of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the firebox allow you to reduce the
air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient flaming combustion, which
boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your stove can only work properly if your
fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15 to 20 percent. See Section A3.0 of this manual for
suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.
2.4 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment
The SBI team are committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to use only
materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the environment.
2.4.1 What is Your New Stove Made Of?
The body of your stove, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become necessary
many years in the future, almost the entire stove can be recycled into new products, thus eliminating
the need to mine new materials.
The paint coat on your stove is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Components) is very low.
VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the manufacturing process meets the
latest air quality requirements with regards to VOC reduction or elimination.
Lightweight firebrick is made of pumice and cement. Pumice is in fact volcanic rock, a naturally green
product found in the Northwest United States. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets have been
dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door glass is a 5 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is basically made
of raw earth materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form a glass at
high temperatures. Ceramic glass will not re-melt in the same way as normal glass, so it should not
be recycled with your regular household products. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.

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3 Fuel
3.1 Materials That Should Not be Burned
•GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
•COAL OR CHARCOAL,
•TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
•PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
•FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
•SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD
•MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES
•RAILROAD TIES
•LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE
3.2 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood
3.2.1 What is Good Firewood?
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the stove, split to a range of sizes and stacked in
the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.
3.2.2 Tree Species
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content. The main
difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood. Hardwoods are denser
than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North America usually have only spruce,
birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and yet they can heat their homes successfully.
Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types for different
purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild weather in spring and fall
because they light quickly and produce less heat Softwoods are not as dense as hardwoods so a
given volume of wood contains less energy. Using softwoods avoids overheating the house, which
can be a common problem with wood heating in moderate weather. Harder woods are best for colder
winter weather when more heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.
Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer lived than
softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable. The advice that only
hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron stoves wouldn’t hold a fire overnight
unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no longer true. You can successfully heat your
home by using the less desirable tree species and give the forest a break at the same time.
3.2.3 Log Length
Logs should be cut about 1” (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so they fit in easily. Pieces that are
even slightly too long make loading the stove very difficult. The most common standard length of
firewood is 16” (400 mm).
The pieces should be a consistent length, with a maximum of 1” (25 mm) variation from piece to
piece.

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3.2.4 Piece Size
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry enough to
burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have the sharp edges
where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3” (75 mm) should be split to encourage drying.
Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3” to 6” (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross section.
Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often, the firewood
purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient stoking. It is sometimes
advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.
3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood stoves. The
complaints usually involve a lack of heat and dirty door glass.

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Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
•firewood takes a long time to dry
•firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the wood in
spring and dry it yourself
•drying happens faster in dry weather than in damp, maritime climates
•drying happens faster in warm summer weather than in winter weather
•small pieces dry more quickly than large pieces
•split pieces dry more quickly than unsplit rounds
•softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods
•softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being stacked in
the open for only the summer months
•hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully, especially if the
pieces are big
•firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and wind; it
takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed
•firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between15 and 20% by weight and will allow
your stove to produce its highest possible efficiency

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3.2.6 Where to store wood
This stove has been certified to store logs in the pedestal provided that the following requirements are
met:
•The logs must not exceed the inside
edge (A) of the pedestal.
•The heat shield baffle (B) under the
firebox must never be removed.
•No combustible material can be placed
above the heat shield baffle.
3.2.7 Judging Firewood Moisture Content
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn by using these guidelines:
•cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry
•as it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or cream coloured to grey or yellow,
•bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood sounds hollow and wet wood sounds dull,
•dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood,
•split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry enough to burn; if it feels damp, it is
too wet,
•burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.
You could buy a wood moisture meter to test your firewood.

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3.3 Manufactured Logs
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs with any chemical
additives.
Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned, but use caution in
the number of these logs burned at one time. Start with one manufactured log and see how the stove
reacts. You can increase the number of logs burned at a time to
rises higher than 475 °F (246 °C) on a magnetic thermometer for installation on single wall stove
pipes or 900 °F (482 °C) on a probe thermometer for installation on double wall stove pipe
thermometer should be placed
about
overheat and damage your stove.
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs with any chemical
Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned, but use caution in
the number of these logs burned at one time. Start with one manufactured log and see how the stove
reacts. You can increase the number of logs burned at a time to
making su
re the temperature never
rises higher than 475 °F (246 °C) on a magnetic thermometer for installation on single wall stove
pipes or 900 °F (482 °C) on a probe thermometer for installation on double wall stove pipe
about
18” (457 mm) above the stove.
Higher temperatures
15
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs with any chemical
Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned, but use caution in
the number of these logs burned at one time. Start with one manufactured log and see how the stove
re the temperature never
rises higher than 475 °F (246 °C) on a magnetic thermometer for installation on single wall stove
pipes or 900 °F (482 °C) on a probe thermometer for installation on double wall stove pipe
. The
Higher temperatures
can lead to

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4 Operating Your Stove
4.1 The use of a fire screen
This stove has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen (AC01319, sold
separately). Make sure the fire screen is properly secured on the stove to avoid any risk of fire. When
the fire screen is used, it is important not to leave the stove unattended to respond promptly in the
event of smoke spillage into the room. Potential causes of smoke spillage are described in section
height of this manual. See Appendix 2: Installing the Fire Screen (AC01319) for installation
instructions.
4.2 Your First Fires
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal components of
the stove are conditioned.
As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but they do smell
bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So, when you first light your
stove, be prepared by opening doors and/or windows to ventilate the house. As you burn hotter and
hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing temperature of the paint. The smell of
curing paint does not disappear until you have burned one or two very hot fires.
Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger and hotter
fires until there is no longer any paint smell from the stove. Once the paint smell disappears, your
stove is ready for serious heating.
4.3 Lighting Fires
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever method
you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts fast produces less
smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are three popular and effective ways to start
wood fires.

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4.3.1 Conventional Fire Starting
The conventional way to build a wood
fire is to bunch up 5 to 10 sheets of
plain newspaper and place them in the
firebox. Next, place 10 or so pieces of
fine kindling on the newspaper. This
kindling should be very thin; less than
1” (25 mm). Next, place some larger
kindling pieces on the fine kindling.
Open the air control fully and light the
newspaper. If you have a tall, straight
venting system you should be able to
close the door immediately and the fire
will ignite. If your venting system has
elbows or an outside chimney, you may
need to leave the door closed but
unlatched for a few minutes as the
newspaper ignites and heat in the
chimney produces some draft. Once
the fire has ignited, close the door and
leave the air control fully open.
A conventional kindling fire with paper
under finely split wood.
DO NOT LEAVE THE STOVE UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED DURING
IGNITION. ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR AFTER IGNITION.
After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add standard firewood pieces until you have a fire
of the right size for the conditions.
4.3.2 The Top Down Fire
The top down fire starting method solves two problems with the conventional method: first, it does not
collapse and smother itself as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build up the fire gradually
because the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can provide up to two hours of
heating or more. The top down method only works properly if the wood is well-seasoned.
Start by placing three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood in the firebox. Next, place 4 or 5
more finely split pieces of firewood (2” to 3” [50 mm to 75 mm] in dia.) on the base logs at right angles
(log cabin style). Now place about 10 pieces of finely split kindling on the second layer at right angles.
The fire is topped with about 5 sheets of newspaper. You can just bunch them up and stuff them in
between the kindling and the underside of the baffle. Or you can make newspaper knots by rolling up
single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage of knots is that they don’t roll
off the fire as they burn. Light the newspaper and watch as the fire burns from top to bottom.
4.3.3 Two Parallel Logs
Place two spit logs in the firebox. Place a few sheets of twisted newspaper between the logs. Now
place some fine kindling across the two logs and some larger kindling across those, log cabin style.
Light the newspaper.

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4.3.4 Using Fire Starters
Many people like to use commercial fire starters instead of newspaper. Some of these starters are
made of sawdust and wax and others are specialized flammable solid chemicals. Follow the package
directions for use.
Gel starter may be used but only if there are no hot embers present. Use only in a cold firebox to start
a fire.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL,
OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
4.4 Maintaining Wood Fires
4.4.1 General Advice
Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will be
variations in the temperature in different parts of the house and there will be variations in temperature
throughout the day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners these are
advantages of zone heating with wood.
Do not expect steady heat output from your stove. It is normal for its surface temperature to rise after
a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decline as the fire progresses. This
rising and falling of temperature can be matched to your household routines. For example, the area
temperature can be cooler when you are active, such as when doing housework or cooking, and it
can be warmer when you are inactive, such as when reading or watching television.
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals and ends
when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same size as it was when
the wood was loaded. Do not attempt to produce a steady heat output by placing a single log on the
fire at regular intervals. Always place at least three, and preferably more, pieces on the fire at a time
so that the heat radiated from one piece helps to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of wood
should provide several hours of heating. The size of each load can be matched to the amount of heat
needed.
When you burn in cycles, you rarely need to open the stove’s loading door while the wood is flaming.
This is an advantage because there is more chance that smoke will leak from the stove when the
door is opened as a full fire is burning. This is especially true if the chimney connector has 90 degree
elbows and if the chimney runs up the outside wall of the house.
IF YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR WHILE THE FUEL IS FLAMING, OPEN THE AIR CONTROL
FULLY FOR A FEW MINUTES, THEN UNLATCH AND OPEN THE DOOR SLOWLY.
4.4.2 Ash Removal
Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full time heating. Do not let the
ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.
The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the stove is relatively cool, but there is still
some chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the stove and prevent it from coming into the room.
After ashes have been removed from the stove and placed in a tightly covered metal container, they
should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a non-
combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible materials pending final disposal.

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Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay hot for several days. If the ashes are
disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the closed
container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Other waste shall not be placed in this container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALIC CONTAINER OR ON A WOODEN
DECK.
4.4.3 Raking Charcoal
Rekindle the fire when you notice that the room temperature has fallen. You will find most of the
remaining charcoal at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake these coals towards the
door before loading. There are two reasons for this raking of the coals. First, it concentrates them
near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox and where they can ignite the new load
quickly, and second, the charcoal will not be smothered by the new load of wood. If you were to
simply spread the charcoal out, the new load will smoulder for a long time before igniting.
Remove ash first, and then rake charcoal towards the front of the firebox before loading so that it will
ignite the new load.

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4.4.4 Firing Each New Load Hot
Place the new load of wood on and behind the charcoal, and not too close to the glass. Close the
door and open the air control fully. Leave the air control fully open until the firebox is full of flames, the
wood has charred to black and its edges are glowing red. Firing each load of wood hot accomplishes
a few things:
•drives the surface moisture from the wood,
•creates a layer of char on the wood, which slows down its release of smoke,
•heats the firebox components so they reflect heat back to the fire, and
•heats the chimney so it can produce strong, steady draft for the rest of the cycle.
Although it is important to fire each new load hot to prepare for a clean burn, do not allow the fire to
burn at full intensity for more than a few minutes.
DO NOT LEAVE THE STOVE UNATTENDED WHILE A NEW LOAD IS BEING FIRED HOT.
When you burn a new load of wood hot to heat up the wood, the stove and the chimney, the result will
be a surge of heat from the stove. This heat surge is welcome when the room temperature is a little
lower than desirable, but not welcome if the space is already warm. Therefore, allow each load of
wood to burn down so that the space begins to cool off a little before loading. Letting the space cool
before loading is one of the secrets to clean burning and effective zone heating.
4.4.5 Turning Down the Air Supply
Once the firewood, firebox and chimney are hot, you can begin to reduce the air supply for a steady
burn.
As you reduce the air supply to the fire, two important things happen. First, the firing rate slows down
to spread the heat energy in the fuel over a longer period of time. Second, the flow rate of exhaust
through the stove and flue pipe slows down, which gives more time for the transfer of heat from the
exhaust. You will notice that as you reduce the air setting, the flames slow down. This is your
indication that the stove is burning at its peak efficiency.
If the flames get small and almost
disappear when you turn down the air, you
have turned down the air too early, or your
firewood is wetter than it should be. With
good fuel and correct air control use, the
flames should slow down, but should stay
large and steady, even as the air supply is
reduced.