Eden World Tour WT800C User manual

THE LEADER IN BASS AMPLIFICATION.
World Tour
Bass Guitar Amplifier
Covering Model
WT800 (C Version)
Never Compromise™
©10-01-2006 by U.S. Music Corp.

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Bass Guitar Amplifier
WT800C
OPERATION MANUAL
Publishing Date 10-01-2006
FORWARD
Congratulations on the purchase of your new Eden World Tour Integrated
Amplifier System. All of us at Eden are totally committed to providing you
with the very best bass guitar systems in their class. Our goals are to offer
you the outstanding performance quality of a top-notch, professional bass
amplification system at a reasonable price point, and to make World Tour
amplifiers the most musical and reliable Bass amplifiers available.
This manual will cover domestic and international versions of the WT800C
Integrated Amplifier.
The WT800C delivers 300 watts RMS output @ 8 Ohms, 440 watts @ 4
Ohms and 550 watts @ 2 Ohms (per channel). In Bridge Mode, it delivers
880 Watts @ 8 Ohms and 1100 Watts @ 4 Ohms. All modes of operation
have +3dB of headroom. This amplifier also features a thermostatically
controlled, active cooling system with built-in thermal safeties.
You have purchased what we feel is one of the finest bass amplifiers
in the world. The tube pre-amplifier section, with its familiar Eden Enhance
control and powerful 5-way, semi-parametric tone control system is coupled
to a gentle auto-compression circuit, allowing you to achieve a wide array of
sounds. This compact, rack mountable package houses modular circuits
made with superior components and designed for years of trouble-free
service.
The Eden World Tour products group is the result of our quest for ultimate
bass tone and maximum reliability. Your amplifier was designed, engineered
and manufactured equivalent to aircraft vibration standards and housed in a
one-piece aluminum case with steel top to ensure maximum reliability. The
modular design allows quick repair in the field should such a need arise.

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The Eden line of World Tour amplifiers is the result of our research and
development in combining high performance and compact size. Just as a
skilled craftsman needs good quality tools that won't let him down on the
job, so does a good musician. We hope you enjoy the tool we’ve created for
you. Have fun; play low!
Please read this manual in its entirety before operating your new amplifier.
Failure to do so could result in misuse or damage. We’ve taken the time to
write it, which was a lot longer than the time it will take for you to read it.
Help us help you by taking a few moments to learn how to properly use your
new amp. You’ll be glad you did!
CAUTION!
Your ears are your most important piece of equipment.
Unfortunately, they cannot be replaced as easily as your other
gear. Please take the following warning seriously.
This product, when used in combination with loudspeakers
and/or additional amplification may be capable of producing
sound levels that could cause permanent hearing loss. DO NOT
operate at high volume levels or at a level that is uncomfortable.
If you experience any discomfort or ringing in the ears or suspect
hearing loss, you should consult an audiologist.
Thank you for your purchase of an Eden bass guitar product.
This unit has been designed and constructed to give you years of
trouble-free service.
Please take the time to review this manual
and to send in your warranty registration card.

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FRONT PANEL FEATURES
Input Jack – Designed to accept a standard _ inch mono phone plug. For
best results use a high quality shielded cable to connect your instrument to
the amplifier. The input is buffered and will handle standard passive, high
level active, and piezo input signals.
Gain Control – Regulates the first gain stage of the preamplifier and
controls the amount of signal available to the system.
Mute – Pull Gently on the Input Gain control to engage the Mute circuit.
This will mute all outputs except the Tuner Out, allowing you to tune
silently. Guitarists and lead vocalists love this feature!
Set Level Indicator – This light helps the user set the appropriate amount of
gain. When set properly, the indicator should light on your loudest/lowest
notes. We’ll go over this in more detail later in the manual.
Enhance Control – Called the “Magic Knob” by some, this complex
control simultaneously boosts the very low bass, upper middle, and high
frequencies while putting a dip in the lower middle frequencies.
It is flat when set to its minimum level (fully counterclockwise).
DI Pre-/Post-EQ Select – Allows you to slect Pre- or Post-EQ operation for
the DI Ouput. With the Enhance control in the “normal” position, the DI
send is Post-EQ. To send a Pre-EQ signal, pull gently on the Enhance
control.
Input Pad – Depressing this switch engages a –10dB pad. This feature is
useful for basses that have a very hot signal level.
Tone Control Section
These controls allow you to boost or cut the tone at the desired frequency.
The spacing allows the controls to interact smoothly and musically. From
left to right, the controls and switches are:
Bass – This traditional shelving tone control provides 15 dB of boost or cut
at approx. 30Hz. The control is flat in the 12:00 position.

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Semi-Parametric Controls
There are three sets of semi-parametric controls. Each set has a Frequency
control (top knob) and a Level control (bottom knob). The Level controls
provide 15 dB of cut or boost. The control is FLAT in the 12:00 position.
From left to right, the Frequency controls have the following ranges:
30-300Hz 200Hz-2Khz 1.2-12Khz
Treble – This traditional shelving tone control provides 15 dB of boost or
cut at approx. 11KHz. The control is flat in the 12:00 position.
EQ Clip Light – indicates clipping in the EQ section. Clipping is a Very
Bad Thing and should be avoided at all times. We’ll tell you how to avoid
this later in the manual.
Compressor Defeat Switch – To defeat the Auto-Compression circuit,
depress this switch.
Compressor Indicator Light – Indicates compression is taking place.
Master Level Control – Adjusts overall system output and stage loudness.
Bi-Amp Switch – Engages Bi-Amp Mode. This mode is ON when the
switch is UP (sticking out from the face plate slightly).
EXTREMELY IMPORTANT NOTE: Do NOT engage bi-amp
operation in combination with Mono Bridge. Doing so may cause
damage to your amplifier and possibly your speakers! Also, it will sound
REALLY BAD!
Balance Control – Balances power between the two amplifiers: High (or
Left) and Low (or Right). This is useful when using cabinets of different
impedance &/or efficiency.
Crossover – Determines the crossover point between amplifiers when in Bi-
Amp Mode. In all other modes of operation, this feature is defeated.
Mono Bridge Switch – Engages Bridge Mono Operation. To engage, push
the switch IN.
Mono Bridge Indicator – Lights to show that the amp is in Bridge Mono
mode.

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EXTREMELY IMPORTANT NOTE: Do NOT engage Mono Bridge in
combination with bi-amp operation. Doing so may cause damage to
your amplifier and possibly your speakers! And, as we said earlier, it
will sound REALLY BAD.
Headphone Jack – Accepts a standard _ inch stereo or mono headphone
plug. It can also be used as a Master Output send to slave another amplifier.
Output Limit Indicators – Light to indicate activity of the power amplifier
limiting circuit, which protects the speaker system from severe distortion.
These LEDs indicate that the amplifiers have reached their maximum output
level.
DC Indicator – When lit, shows that the low voltage power supplies are
operating.
Mains On/Off Switch – This switch turns the system power ON or OFF.
The switch illuminates to indicate the presence of AC power present in the
chassis. This switch is prior to the fuse. The light in the switch may flicker
depending on local voltage conditions. This is normal and nothing to be
concerned about.
NOTE: The Mains Switch will illuminate even if the fuse is blown.
However, the DC Indicators will not illuminate if the fuse is blown.
REAR PANEL FEATURES
Amplifier Power Rating:
RMS output per channel:
300 Watts @ 8 Ohms
440 Watts @ 4 Ohms
550 Watts @ 2 Ohms
RMS output in Bridge Mode:
880 Watts @ 8 Ohms
1100 Watts @ 4 Ohms
All modes of operation have +3dB of headroom. This means that the peak
power is twice that of RMS.

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Note: Our new D610XLT is rated at 6 Ohms and is rated at 1050 Watts
RMS. When connecting this cabinet to the WT800C in Bridge Mode, it will
receive approximately 1000 Watts RMS, which is a near-perfect match.
Left/High Amp Output – These consist of two _ inch jacks and an NL-4
connector (sometimes called a Speakon). The jacks are wired in parallel. The
total speaker load impedance should not go below 2 ohms. On NL-4
connectors, we use +1, -1 connections.
Bridge Mono Output – This is a single NL-4 connector to be used ONLY
in Bridge Mono operation. . The total speaker load impedance should not go
below 4 ohms.
Combination Power Cord Jack and Fuse Holder – The removable power
cord is attached here. To access the fuse holder, pull the holder out of the top
of the power receptacle. Your unit was shipped with a spare fuse inserted in
the fuse carrier. USE ONLY THE SAME SIZE AND TYPE FOR
REPLACMENT. Using a fuse with a different rating than specified is a
VERY BAD THING and can cause damage to your amplifier. All
models come with a holder marked (FUSE) or (115/230) and are factory
configured for 100/120/ 230/240 only and must be adapted by a service tech
for any voltage change.
Fuse Requirements:
USA @ 120 Volts /60 HZ – 10 Amps, 5 x 20 mm GMC/T/slow blow
Europe @ 240 Volts/50 Hz - 5 Amps, 5 x 20 mm GMC/T/slow blow
Japan @ 100 Volts/60 Hz - 12 Amps, 5 x 20 mm GMC/T/slow blow
IMPORTANT NOTE: Always use slow blow or time delay type fuses.
Do not use fast blow fuses.
To convert your amplifier from US to European fusing, remove the Fuse
Holder and insert a 5 Amp slow blow fuse. Flip the fuse holder over and
reinsert.
IMPORTANT NOTE: In order to operate properly in other parts of the
world, your amplifier may require minor modifications. These
modifications must be made by a QUALIFIED technician. Contact your
local distributor for further information.

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Recording Out (D.I.) – This fully balanced XLR output allows you to send
a pre- or post-EQ signal to a recording or sound reinforcement mixing
console. We use Pin 2 hot configuration. Adjusting the Master Volume
control will not affect this send. This output is designed to use with phantom
powered systems. However, it never hurts to turn off the phantom power at
the board, if possible.
D.I. Level – Controls the level being sent from the XLR balanced output
jack. We suggest setting the control at approximately 12 o’clock initially. If
the signal to the board is too hot, it’s better to engage the Input Pad on your
channel of the board than to turn it down here, if at all possible. In general,
it’s better (in terms of signal-to-noise ratio and dynamic presentation) to
send as hot a signal as possible to the board. However, you can adjust the
signal level, if necessary, so make sure your soundperson or recording
engineer is aware of this capability.
Ground Lift Switch – This switch lifts the ground within the balanced
output system to allow you to eliminate excessive noise/ground loops when
connected to external systems.
Mono Pre-EQ Effects Send/Return – These standard _ inch jacks allow
you to send and receive your signal to and from external devices. This
effects loop is positioned post (behind) the compressor and before the
Enhance control and the tone section. This loop is at line level; do not use
instrument level effects in this loop as they tend to be overloaded by the
higher signal level which can cause distortion.
Stereo Post-EQ Effects Send/Return – These standard _ inch jacks allow
you to send and receive your signal to and from external devices. This
effects loop is positioned post (behind) the tone section. This loop is at line
level; do not use instrument level effects in this loop as they tend to be
overloaded by the higher signal level which can cause distortion. To use
with mono effects, return the signal to the Left return.
Tuner Out Jack – This standard _ inch jack is designed to provide a pre-
gain signal for connection to a tuner. It can also be used to provide pre-tone
signal to other devices such as a direct box or console. The signal is enough
to provide adequate signal to virtually every tuner on the market.

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Aux. Input - This standard _ inch input jack is designed to accept the signal
from an external source such as a CD or cassette player, drum machine,
synth. module, etc. The signal is summed (added in) prior to the tone
controls and Master Volume control. This jacks can also be used to return a
studio cue signal, allowing the WT800C to provide you with your own
headphone mix in the studio. The Aux signal is summed with the main input
and sent to all outputs, including the DI.
Right/Low Amp Output – These consist of two _ inch jacks and an NL-4
connector (sometimes called a Speakon). The jacks are wired in parallel. The
total speaker load impedance should not go below 2 ohms. On NL-4
connectors, we use +1, -1 connections.
Cooling System – Your amplifier features a thermostatically controlled fan,
which will switch on when the internal temperature reaches 130 degrees F.
In low volume situations (into 8 Ohm loads) the fan may not come on at all.
The cooling system also features a high temperature thermal safety system,
which will activate an AGC (Automatic Gain Control) circuit if the
operating temperature goes above 200 degrees F. This circuit will
automatically turn down the output of the system in the event of overheating.
It will automatically reset itself to full power as soon as the unit cools down
to a safe operating temperature.
NOTE: the D.I. will continue to operate normally even when the amplifier is
in thermal safety mode. Only the stage sound will be lost.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Excessive heat is a Very Bad Thing and can
result in severe damage to your amplifier. DO NOT bypass or
disconnect any part of your thermal safety system. Doing so will
immediately void your warranty!
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Mechanical and Thermal Issues – During operation, your amplifier should
always be placed away from sources of moisture or heat. Care should be
taken not to obstruct the ventilation holes on the bottom and sides of the
unit. In the event of thermal shutdown, you should eliminate the cause of the
thermal problem (poor ventilation, speaker loads lower than 2 ohms PER
CHANNEL) immediately. The supplied rack ears can be used to install your
amplifier in a conventional equipment rack for protection during
transportation.

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Electrical Connection – The WT800C requires at least 20 Amps of
correctly wired alternating current for proper operation. Providing less than
20 Amps of power may result in poor amplifier performance, so it’s
probably not a good idea to plug all of your band’s gear into a single wall
outlet.
Connections – All instrument-level input connections (everything but the
speakers) should be made with high quality shielded cables. The use of
speaker cables for input connections will result in excess noise. Speaker
connections should be made with high quality 16 gauge or heavier
unshielded speaker cables. We recommend 10 or 12 gauge cables. The use
of shielded line or instrument cables for speaker connections can
damage your amplifier. The speaker cable should be as short as possible.
INITIAL SET UP
Before turning your amplifier ON, you must first determine which mode of
operation you wish to use. It is critical to the safety of your amplifier that
you make all connections correctly, and that you set the switches to the
proper position. Failure to do so may result in damage to your amplifier
&/or speakers!
Dual Mono (Stereo) Operation:
Connect speakers to the Left and Right amplifier outputs ONLY. Do NOT
use the Mono Bridge Output. The total impedance of all speakers connected
to each of the amplifiers should not exceed 2 Ohms.
Make sure that the Bi-amp and Bridge Mono switches are both OFF. In
the OFF position, both switches should be flush with the face of the
amplifier.
If you are using stereo effects, the amplifiers will each receive the
appropriate signals. If not, both amplifiers will receive the same signal.
If necessary, use the balance knob to compensate for differences between the
two sets of speakers. If not, it should be in the 12:00 position.

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Bridge Mode Operation:
Connect speaker(s) to the Bridge Mono output ONLY. Do NOT use the
individual amplifier outputs. The total impedance of all speakers should not
exceed 4 Ohms.
Engage Bridge Mode by depressing the switch on the front panel. You can
do this using the tip of a pin, a small screwdriver, etc. In the ON position,
the switch should be slightly recessed into the face of the amplifier. When
you turn the amplifier ON, the Bridge Mode Indicator will light.
Make sure the Bi-amp switch is OFF, or flush with the panel.
Set the Balance control to the 12:00 position.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When the amplifier is set to Bridge Mode operation,
the new Mono Bridge Interlock Safety Circuit disconnects the Left and
Right Outputs. This prevents accidental connection of the L/R outputs when
in Bridge Mode. Only the Bridge Mono Output will work in Bridge Mode.
So, if you hook the amplifier up incorrectly, you won’t hear anything. You
also won’t risk damaging your speakers. You’re welcome.
Bi-Amp Operation:
Connect the appropriate speakers to each individual amplifier Output.
Engage the Bi-Amp Operation switch. When ON, the switch will stick out
slightly from the face of the amplifier.
Make sure the Bridge Mono switch is OFF, or flush with the panel.
Use the Crossover control to determine which frequencies will go to the
speakers. Because bass frequencies require far more power to reproduce the
treble frequencies, we suggest that you start out low (or left) on the dial. But
it’s only a suggestion. We gave you a crossover control so you could make
your own decision. (You’re welcome!)
If necessary, us the Balance control to balance the volume between the low
and high speakers.

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IMPORTANT NOTES: Never, and we mean NEVER, attempt to do
any of the following:
•Use Bi-Amp and Bridge Mono modes at the same time.
•Use Inappropriate Outputs to connect speakers.
•Switch modes of operation while the amplifier is on.
•Connect both individual amplifier outputs to the same speaker.
(That’s what Bridge Mono is for.)
Failure to follow these precautions can cause significant damage to your
amplifier &/or speakers. We’re serious about this. Pay attention.
GETTING A GREAT TONE
As bassists, each of us has in our head a concept of our perfect sound. Eden
amplifiers are designed to help you easily achieve the sound you hear inside
you. However, it’s a multi-step process as explained below.
In order to ensure the ultimate in tone, it’s important to follow the procedure
outlined below. Don’t skip steps; don’t jump around. Yes, this may take a
minute or two, but the work is well worth it. Once they’ve done it a few
times, most users can do it time and again in about a minute.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before you plug in your unit for the first time,
please do the following things. First, turn the power switch to the OFF
position. Check the back of your unit for the correct voltage notation for
your county of operation.
Once you’ve ensured correct voltage, set the Master Volume control to
minimum (fully counter-clockwise). Set the tone controls to the center
position (12:00 or 0). Turn the Enhance control to the minimum position. Set
the Input Gain control to the minimum (fully counter-clockwise). Set the
Compressor to the OFF position (push the switch IN). This will set your
amplifier up flat and with the Compressor disengaged. Next, plug in the
power cord to the AC inlet on the back of the unit. Use only a safe grounded
receptacle for proper operation at the correct voltage for your country.
Double check to make certain your amplifier is set for the correct voltage in
your country. Double check that all connections and switches are correct for
your chosen mode of operation.

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Turn On – Once you’ve completed the steps above, you can plug in your
bass and turn on the unit (plug it in first, ok?) and let’s get started. We
recommend turning your system on with the Master Volume control set to
its minimum position. This will prevent any unexpected signal from being
sent to your speakers.
Setting Your Level – Remember, begin with the Input Gain, Enhance,
Compressor and Master Volume completely OFF – fully counter-clockwise.
All EQ should be set flat, that is, at 12:00 – straight up.
While playing your lowest note (or loudest), slowly turn the Input Gain up
until the Set Level light begins to blink with regularity. If you can’t go past 8
or 9 o’clock, you may engage the Gain Switch to better match the gain of
your instrument to the amplifier.
If you have disengaged the Compressor as we suggested, the Set Level light
will barely blink on your loudest notes when you reach clipping in the Input
stage. We recommend you decrease gain one or two clicks to ensure there is
no clipping in the system. By the way, this is David’s favorite way to set
level, even if you intend to use compression.
Once you have properly set your Input Gain, turn the Master Volume up to a
comfortable listening level and proceed with the rest of the setup process.
Setting the Compressor - If you want to use compression, engage it now by
turning the Compressor Defeat switch OFF. The compressor light will now
blink when your gain goes above the compression threshold. This will
generally show up more on the lower notes, or when you employ Slapping.
(A properly compressed Slap sound is very cool, indeed.) If you want more
compression, increase the Input Gain a little at a time, until you achieve the
amount of compression you desire.
SETTING YOUR EQ
The frequencies that you’ll need to boost or cut are dependent upon your
instrument, playing style, speaker cabinets, and venue. Extreme settings of
boost or cut are unlikely to be necessary or helpful. We are frequently asked
to provide suggested settings for various styles of play. We have discovered
though, that most of our endorsers tend to set their EQ generally flat, using
varying amounts of the Enhance Control to achieve their sound. In fact, a
number of our recording artists tell us that their standard recording set-up is
to have the Enhance set at approximately 9 or 10 O’clock and the tone
controls set flat.

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We encourage you to experiment with different settings to obtain the sound
you desire. We have included some EQ panel diagrams at the back of this
manual to help you record your settings.
Enhance – Once you’ve set your gain, you can move on to setting your EQ,
beginning with the Enhance control, or Magic Knob, as some call it. The
Enhance circuitry adds very low bass, upper mids and highs while scooping
out a bit of low middle. The more Enhance effect you dial in, the greater the
boost (and cut). As with all of our EQ controls, a little goes a long way.
Slowly bring the Enhance control up while playing. If you turn it up close to
12:00 on the dial and still don’t have your sound, stop there. Return the
Enhance to OFF or leave it at no more than 12:00 and work with the EQ
section.
Using the EQ Controls – Before you begin to twiddle knobs, let’s talk
about a few things. Excessive boosting of one or more EQ frequencies may
cause an overload in the EQ section. If this happens, the EQ Clip light will
engage. This is a Very Bad Thing and needs to be corrected immediately.
If EQ clipping occurs, you can either decrease the boost or decrease the
Input Gain. Remember, too, that our EQ controls are active, and are meant to
turn both ways – not just UP! This means that you can enhance a certain
frequency spectrum either by boosting that frequency or by cutting the
adjacent frequencies. This latter method has the advantage of maximizing
potential headroom.
If possible, step well forward of your rig to get a better idea of how you will
sound in the room. You may be surprised at how different you sound once
you step away from the speakers.
NOTE: Many players rely on the Enhance Control (and perhaps a little
Midrange Massage) to get their sound. This method leaves the Bass and
Treble controls available to dial in to a particularly difficult room. Just
something to keep in mind, ok?
Setting Bass and Treble – OK, now it’s time to set the EQ, beginning with
the Bass and Treble controls. These controls cover a fairly broad frequency
spectrum and a little goes a long way. Adjust these controls up or down as
needed. We suggest playing a few notes in various areas of the neck so you
can hear what your adjustments have done across the fretboard.

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Using the Semi-Parametric EQ Controls – Adjusting the Semi-Parametric
controls allows you to focus in on particular frequencies to achieve your
desired tone. We suggest you spend some time experimenting with these
controls to learn more about how they can affect your sound. Here’s an easy
way to do that:
Beginning with all controls FLAT, turn the first (left) frequency control fully
counterclockwise. Turn the corresponding Level control to approximately
9:00. Now, while playing, rotate the frequency control to the right a little at a
time. You should be able to easily hear the frequencies this first set of
controls affects.
Now, cut the Level control to approximately 3:00 and do the same thing.
Repeat this process with the two remaining control sets. By the way, this
process is a lot easier if you have a friend do the knob twiddling while you
play.
Here are a couple of tips to help you dial in your desired tone:
For a great fretless tone, dial in a little extra at approximately 550Hz.
For extra grind for Rock and other aggressive music, add a little at 1-1.2KHz
or 2-2.2KHz – or both! Remember, though, that a little goes a long way.
Don’t over boost.
NOTE: Remember that the tone you get when playing alone may not cut
through as well as you’d like when playing with others. You may need to
adjust the tone controls to achieve the same (apparent) tone, especially in the
mids and high end.
ANOTHER NOTE: If you are using Dual Mono or Bi-Amp operation, you
can use the Balance control to adjust the balance between different cabinet
models to achieve your sound. In Bi-Amp Mode, the crossover frequency
selected can also make a big difference. Don’t be afraid to experiment, ok?

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A FEW TECHNICAL THINGS TO REMEMBER
Clipping = Bad – Keep an eye on the EQ Clip light. If it blinks, either
reduce Input Gain or cut back on one or more EQ ranges. As we said earlier,
Clipping in the preamp section is a Very Bad Thing and is to be avoided at
all times. If you find yourself running out of amplifier headroom, cut a little
in the lower frequencies, which require the most power from your amp.
You’ll know this is happening if you see the Limit light flashing. As long as
the light is just blinking, you’re fine. But, if it’s on more than it’s off, you
might want to back off a bit.
Frequency Oddities – Two areas are a frequent source of frustration for
bassists trying to achieve their sound: frequency masking and frequency
enhancement. Frequency masking occurs when other instruments
(particularly cymbals and electric guitars) obscure the important upper
harmonic content of your sound. As a result, you find that the EQ settings
that were so perfect at home lack definition in a live setting. On the other
hand, the stage settings that worked so well sound harsh and/or thin in the
absence of other instruments.
Frequency enhancement results from cabinet placement and room acoustics.
A cabinet placed on the floor will have the lower frequencies boosted by
about 3 db. Placement against a wall adds another 3 db. A corner adds 3 db
more. Consequently you may find a surprising boominess to your sound.
Certain qualities in the room itself can also enhance the lower frequencies,
further contributing to this problem. Frequently this effect is more noticeable
in the audience than it is on stage. Compensating for it may result in a stage
sound that may seem a little thin. However the sound is actually quite full
out in front.
NOTE; Remember, you can’t equalize out major physical room anomalies.
If things sound really weird where you are, try moving you rig a few feet
and see if that helps. This may be particularly helpful on saggy stages that
bounce like a drum head. (The propellerhead term for this is
“diaphragmatic.” So says David. – LB)

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YOU’RE DONE. GO PLAY.
There you have it: a quick and easy process to help you get the perfect tone
from your Eden amplifier. As previously mentioned, it make take a few
extra minutes the first few times you go through this, especially if you take
the time to experiment with all the knobs and switches, which we highly
recommend.
We are confident that the time you spend getting to know your new friend is
an important investment, one that will pay off immeasurably in Great Bass
Tone. And, after all, that’s why you bought an Eden, right?
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS
Suggested Speaker Systems – Your speaker system should be chosen to
accommodate the characteristics of your amplifier and your predominant
application. If you will only be using one cabinet per channel, a 4 Ohm
model will draw the most current from your amplifier. If you will generally
be using two cabinets, they should both be 8 Ohm models so their combined
impedance will be 4 ohms. If you are uncertain about your future needs,
always go with the 8 Ohm speaker option so that you can add another
speaker later if you need to. In general, adding more speakers will give you a
greater volume increase than adding a few more watts.
We have designed our amplifiers to operate safely at 2 Ohms only because
everyone else is doing it and some users expect it. However, we much prefer
operating at 8 or 4 Ohms because of the markedly improved quality of tone
and dynamic response. But if you really want to, you can operate your
WT800C at 2 Ohms per channel without worry. In Bridge Mono Mode, the
total impedance should never be less than 4 Ohms. This translates to a 2
Ohm load for each amplifier.
Headphone Jack as a Line Driver – On some occasions (such as high-
volume or outdoor situations) it may be desirable to use the WT800C along
with an additional power amplifier and added cabinets. A standard shielded
instrument cable may be used to connect from the headphone jack of the unit
to an unbalanced input of a standard power amplifier. This will provide a
signal that is post-EQ and after the Master Volume control, allowing the
entire system to be controlled from the WT800C. This way, you only have to
adjust one set of knobs. This is a Really Neat Thing, huh?

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Using the WT800C Without Speakers -This amplifier is designed to be
used safely with headphones only, without the loud speaker plugged in. No
harm will result from using the amplifier in this fashion. This allows the use
of the unit for practice with headphones and as a preamplifier with other
amplifiers. Neighbors and room mates really love this, which qualifies it as
another Really Neat Thing.
In addition, some users don’t need all the power of the WT800C in all
situations. Think small gigs and rehearsals. If you like, you can connect a
speaker to a single amplifier channel. However, if you do, you may want to
turn the Balance control all the way to that amp.
MAINTENANCE
Your Eden amplifier has been designed to require minimal routine
maintenance. Attention to the following areas will ensure optimum
performance of your amplifier. We’re serious. Don’t blow this off, OK?
Contact Point Cleaning – One of the weakest links in most bass
amplification systems are the solderless connection points where
instruments, speaker cabinets, effects, and other devices are connected to the
amplifier. (The most vulnerable of these types of connection is the jack on
your instrument). In addition to contamination from airborne pollutants,
these points are frequently assaulted by connectors that have picked up
debris from dirty stages, cases, etc.
This contamination can result in poor contact as well as poor tone, and we
all know that bad tone is a Very Bad Thing. These points should be cleaned
regularly with a cotton swab soaked in denatured alcohol or a commercially
available de-oxidant. Frequent cleaning of the plugs on your cords is also
recommended.
Dust Removal – You should periodically inspect the ventilation openings
on the top and sides of the unit to ensure that they have not become blocked
by accumulated dust. Vacuum the openings to remove any dust buildup.
Dust bunnies are definitely not cool.

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The Magic Smoke – Few people realize just how much magic goes into
creating Great Bass Tone. It isn’t something you normally need worry about.
Just have fun and leave all that to us. However – and this is very important –
if you ever release the Magic Smoke from your amplifier this is indeed a
Very Bad Thing, perhaps the worst thing you can do. If you see any smoke
(Magic or otherwise) coming out of your amplifier, immediately turn it off
and seek the services of a qualified magician…uhm, we mean…technician.
DO NOT continue to use the amplifier in this condition.
Learn More – If you’d like to learn more about your amplifier (or about our
company and its activities), we invite you to visit our website – www.eden-
electronics.com. There you’ll find articles to help you better understand our
products and the technical stuff some people find so interesting. You’ll also
find our FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) file, which is updated regularly.
While you’re there, check out our on-line forum. There you can meet
hundreds of other Edenites who’ll be glad to help you with any questions
you may have about our gear. Not to brag too much, but we think our forum
is a Really Neat Thing, filled with Really Neat People. We’re pretty sure
you’ll think so, too.
Service – In the event of amplifier malfunction, or questions about your
unit’s operating features that aren’t answered in this manual or on our
website, you should contact your Dealer. Once you and your dealer have
determined it’s definitely a malfunction (and not an operator error) you must
call our Customer Service Department and obtain a Return Merchandise
Authorization (RMA). We WILL NOT accept any gear sent without an
RMA, so save the time and money by calling first, ok?

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My Favorite Settings
Setting 1____________________________________________________
Setting 2____________________________________________________
Setting 3____________________________________________________
Setting 4____________________________________________________