Esse Bakeheart Quick start guide

Bakeheart &
Warmheart
Wood Fired Cooking Stoves
THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE COMMISSIONED BY A HETAS REGISTERED ENGINEER
THE WARRANTY CARD MUST BE RETURNED TO ENSURE GUARANTEE VALIDITY

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TableofContents
OPERATIONAL INSTRUCTIONS ...........................................................................3
INTRODUCTION..............................................................................................3
BEFORE USING YOUR COOKING STOVE..........................................................3
YOUR COOKING STOVE ..................................................................................4
LIGHTING AND CONTROLLING THE FIRE.........................................................6
NOTES ON WOODBURNING...........................................................................8
LONG TERM SHUTDOWN.............................................................................10
FIREWOOD AND THE WOODBURNING PROCESS..........................................10
COOKING WITH THE COOK STOVE ...............................................................14
EXTENDED WOODBURNING.........................................................................15
CLEANING AND MAINTAINANCE..................................................................16
CONDITIONS OF GUARANTEE ......................................................................18
EXCLUSIONS.................................................................................................18
CUSTOMER CARE .........................................................................................19
SAFETY NOTES..............................................................................................20
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS .........................................................................22
GENERAL SAFETY INFORMATION.................................................................22
THE CLEAN AIR ACT 1993 AND SMOKE CONTROLLED AREAS .......................23
CHIMNEY AND FLUE INFORMATION ............................................................24
INSTALLING THE APPLIANCE ........................................................................28
COMMISSIONING THE APPLIANCE ...............................................................29
REPLACEMENT PARTS ..................................................................................29
COMMISSIONING CHECKLIST .......................................................................30

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Bakeheart & Warmheart
OPERATIONAL INSTRUCTIONS
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for choosing an ESSE cooking stove. Please read these instructions
carefully to ensure your safety and enjoyment whilst using this product.
Correctly installed and operated, your ESSE cooking stove will provide faithful
service indefinitely. We feel certain that like countless ESSE owners since 1854,
you will be truly satisfied by the warmth and comfort it will provide and the taste
of your food cooked within its oven.
BEFORE USING YOUR COOKING STOVE
Ensure that any plastic film used to protect surfaces has been removed (e.g.
from the inside of the oven door). The hotplate has been painted at the factory
to prevent rusting and therefore will require wiping with a damp cloth and
drying with a tea towel or kitchen roll.
During the first few operations of the cook stove there may be some ticking and
fumes emitted. This is normal and part of the initial expansion & material curing
process.

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YOUR COOKING STOVE
Figure 1 Bakeheart Cooking Stove
Figure 2 Warmheart Cooking Stove
Figure 1 and Figure 2 show the cooking stoves and their controls. The fire is
loaded, refuelled, and emptied through the large glass fire door.
Included inside your cooking stove is a multi-purpose Operating Tool –for
adjusting the air supply and operating the door. A glove is also provided to
protect the user’s hand. (Figure 3)

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Figure 3 Operating Tool and Glove
Figure 4 Filter Control
The cooking stoves are also fitted with a filter system controlled by the indicated
control in Figure 4. Pulling out this boss disengages the filter, pushing the boss
in engages the filter.
WARNING
Do not place towels on the handrail, keep pets and children away and ensure
that any curtains near the appliance cannot ignite even when displaced.
Surfaces will be hot when in use.
An extractor fan MUST NOT be fitted in the same room as the appliance.

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LIGHTING AND CONTROLLING THE FIRE
Before lighting the fire ensure that all vermiculite bricks are in the correct
position.
Ensure the air control is in the open position by moving the control to the right
hand position, and the filter is disengaged.
Figure 5 Air Control in Open Position
Open the fire door and lay two logs along the base of the fire box forming a
space between them.
Figure 6 Logs Laid in Fire Box

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Place a firelighter in the space and surround with a small amount of kindling.
Figure 7 Fire Lighter and Kindling in Place
Lay a third log over the top of the space perpendicular to the other logs.
Figure 8 Final Log in Position
When you are ready to light the fire all that needs to be done is light the
firelighter.
Once the fire has been lit leave the door partially open to allow additional
airflow until the fire has become established. When the fire is established the
fire door can be fully closed. The air control can be moved towards the closed
position once the sooting has burnt off the brickwork. The air flow can be
reduced by moving the control to the left once the fire has become established.
The filter can now be engaged.

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WARNING
When the cooking stove is running ALL HANDLES become hot and the
operating tool or glove provided should be used to open or close the doors
(Figure 3)
The burning rate of the stove can now be regulated by the rate at which fuel is
added and use of the air control. The maximum amount of fuel to be loaded
during normal operation is 2kg per hour in order to achieve nominal heat output.
NOTE
This appliance is not an incinerator and only dry well seasoned wood should
be used. Burning coal or other solid fuels such as treated wood is not
possible.
If the cook stove is being used primarily to heat the room it is recommended
that the bolster lid is kept in the raised position to allow heat from the hotplate
to radiate into the room.
When refuelling the cook stove it is recommended that the logs are placed
running front to back as in Figure 6 as this leads to the cleanest combustion.
Before lighting a full fire in the cook stove for the first time it is recommended
that 3 smaller fires are lit first to ensure that any moisture is driven out.
NOTES ON WOODBURNING
Wood burns most efficiently when the air for combustion is supplied from above
the fire bed. This air supplies the oxygen necessary for the volatile gasses given
off by the wood as it is heated to combust which increases efficiency and
reduces heat being wasted up the chimney.
Running the cooking stove with the air control open will provide oxygen for the
wood to burn on the fire bed and should be used to control the fire when lighting
or refuelling. The cooking stove should ideally be run with the air control in the
closed position for the majority of the time in use. If the fire appears to die down
too low then opening the air control slightly for a short period can help revive it.

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To get the best results from your cooking stove it is recommended that a wood
stove thermometer be fitted to the flue pipe above the cooking stove. This
allows you to monitor the temperature of the flue gasses leaving the cook stove.
Below 115oC
This is below the condensation point of wood gasses and may cause the build-
up of tar in the chimney, dirty the fire door glass and result in the inefficient
burning of fuel.
115oC –260oC
The flue gasses should be in this temperature band for the safest, most efficient
operation of your cooking stove.
Above 260oC
Too hot. Heat will be wasted up the chimney. Excess heat may damage the
cooking stove or ignite an existing accumulation of tar resulting in a chimney
fire. In the event of a fire, close the air controls on the appliance and call the fire
brigade for assistance.
It is recommended to cut your logs to the approximate size shown in Figure 9 to
minimise the need for refuelling.
Figure 9 Approximate Size of Logs

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LONG TERM SHUTDOWN
If the cooking stove is to be shut down for long periods i.e. during summer
months or if the appliance is in a second home that is not used all the time,
precautions should be taken to avoid damage from condensation and corrosion.
First ensure that the cooking stove is fully cleaned and all ash removed. The
ovens and hotplate can then be treated with a light coating of flax oil to help
prevent moisture damaging the surfaces. The air control is to be left in the open
position (Figure 5), the doors slightly ajar, and the bolster lid left raised to allow
for ventilation.
FIREWOOD AND THE WOODBURNING PROCESS
Seasoning and Storing Firewood
Wood, which has recently been cut and is still full of sap and water is known as
"green" wood.
Green wood will generally burn poorly and inefficiently, because it can have over
50% water in its cells. It may be hard to light, smoulder, not put out any heat
and cause more than the usual amount of creosote to build up in your chimney.
So your aim should be to dry the wood out to below 20% moisture content, this
process is called seasoning. As the name implies, you should store your wood
for a season or so, while it dries, but there are things you can do to speed up
seasoning by cutting the wood now rather than just before you use it.
Wood is composed of bundles of microscopic tubes that were used to transport
water from the roots of the tree to the leaves. These tubes will stay full of water
for years even after a tree is dead. This is why it is so important to have your
firewood cut to length for 6 months or more before you burn it, it gives this
water a chance to evaporate since the tube ends are finally open and the water
only has to migrate a small distance to escape. Splitting the wood helps too by

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exposing more surface area to the sun and wind, but cutting the wood to shorter
lengths is of primary importance.
Here’s how you can tell whether your wood is ready or not: Well seasoned
firewood generally has darkened ends with cracks or splits visible, it is relatively
lightweight, and makes a clear "clunk" when two pieces are struck together.
Green wood on the other hand is very heavy, the ends look fresher, and it tends
to make a dull "thud" when struck.
Another thing you can do to help is store your wood properly. Store it off the
ground by building the pile on some longer logs (or whatever method you can
devise). A shed or shelter with an open side makes an ideal storage place, as the
air can circulate around the logs and help to dry them out. Unventilated spaces
or plastic tarps, which never get taken off will prevent the drying and
evaporation process and cause moulds and rot. So, if a tarp is your only option,
take it off frequently to air the wood on fine days. And remember to put it back
on again. Seasoned firewood will reabsorb large amounts of water if exposed to
rain, snow and excessive dew, which is liable to make it rot and be unfit for
making a good fire.
When you build up a store of firewood, remember that the wood may start to
deteriorate after 4 to 5 years, although this is of course variable and depending
on storage conditions and species involved.
What Type of Wood is Best?
The difference between 'hard' and 'soft' woods is the density of their cells or
fibres.
As a general rule, the deciduous trees (those that loose their leaves in the
autumn) are usually thought of as hardwoods and the evergreen trees (such as
pines, firs and larches) as the softwoods. But generalisations are of course
always subject to many exceptions. Some evergreens may well be harder than
some deciduous trees. Birch, for example, is not very hard at all. So we should
understand that there is a whole range of densities amongst our tree species,
including medium dense woods, which cannot be satisfactorily classed as hard
or soft.
Firewood tends to be sold by volume rather than weight. Assuming that the
wood is reasonably dry, the weight of a square metre of good hardwood may be

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double of that of a square metre of softwood. This means that the same volume
of hardwood will provide you with more fuel to burn than an equal amount of
softwood, simply because it contains more substance.
(N.B. The price of hardwood will normally not be double that of softwood,
because it took the same amount of labour to prepare. So, if a trailer full of
hardwood costs more than the same size trailer full of softwood, the more
expensive option may well be the most economical.)
The other advantage of good hard firewoods are that the cooker does not need
to be fed as often and the charcoal-beds made by the glowing wood may burn
more easily overnight.
However, the ideal situation would be to have a store of both hard and soft
woods, because the softer woods also have distinct advantages. They light more
easily than the slower burning hardwoods and if the softwoods are dry, they
create a hotter, more intense fire. The draught created by the hotter fire moves
the air up the chimney faster.
After reading the notes opposite about the burning process, you will understand
that means less pollution in the form of smoke and less creosote condensation
in your chimney.
The denser hardwoods tend to smoulder more easily when the fire is first lit, so
their flue gas temperature will be much cooler.
Because softwoods like pine and larch contain a lot of resins and pitch, a popular
misconception is that they will fur up the chimney with creosote more easily
than a hardwood like oak. This is not necessarily true at all. It is not the pitch
that is the problem, it's the water IN the pitch. Once the water in the wood has
evaporated, that pitch becomes high octane fuel. When dry, softwoods burn
extremely hot.
There is also the matter of seasoning to be considered. When you buy wood, it
will usually have been cut in the winter of the year you buy it. Hard woods tend
to take longer than softwoods to fully dry out.
Softwoods cut in the previous winter should, with proper storage, be ready to
burn the next autumn, whereas many hardwoods may take a bit longer than
that. Oak, for example, is very slow to dry out and ideally left for two years. It is
also possible to purchase pre seasoned wood or kiln dried wood.

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Summarising we can say that it is always sensible to buy this year for next years
fuel supply and that it is very handy to have both soft and hardwoods. You can
use the softwoods to start a good fire and you will have additional control over
the fire (in addition to the cookers controls) by adding slower burning wood to
fast ones if you want to leave the cooker without tending it for a while.
Alternatively you can add some fast burning softwood logs to the slower
hardwood logs to instantly revive a fire, which has been neglected.
The Wood Burning Process
Understanding what happens when wood is burnt will enable you to burn wood
in a more environmentally friendly way, reduce the maintenance required for
your chimney and get more out of your wood. There are 3 stages in the wood-
burning process:
Evaporation
When you light the cooker a lot of energy will be needed at first to boil away any
moisture, which is left in the wood. Using energy to drive off excess water in
firewood robs the cooker of energy needed for an efficient and clean burn. Also,
much of the energy wasted in evaporating water is energy that could have
heated the hotplate and oven. This is a waste of wood, money and effort. The
presence of all that moisture tends to keep "putting out" the fire, and therefore
making it burn very poorly, which tends to produce a lot of creosote and
pollution.
Emissions
As the heat of the fire intensifies, waste-gases (smoke) are released from the
wood.
Unburned smoke is emitted into the air either as pollution, or condensed in the
chimney causing creosote build-up. It takes time for the air in your chimney to
heat up. When it is still cold you get an effect similar to the condensation of hot
breath on a colder window or mirror. So when the by-products of combustion
(smoke in the form of gases) exit the cooker, and flow up into the relatively
cooler chimney, condensation occurs.
The resulting residue that sticks to the inner walls of the chimney is called
creosote. Creosote is formed by unburned, flammable particulates present in
the smoke. It is black or brown in appearance. It can be crusty and flaky, tar-like,

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drippy and sticky or shiny and hardened. Quite often, all forms will occur in one
chimney system.
If the wood you are using is water logged, or green, the fire will tend to smoulder
and not warm the chimney sufficiently. Wet wood causes the whole system to
be cool, and inefficient. In contrast: dry wood means a hot fire, which results in
a hot flue, and a hot flue means much less creosote clogging up your chimney.
The cooker’s firebox is designed to operate at very high temperatures to burn
the gases and particles released from the wood, which means less air-pollution.
Charcoal
When most of the tar and gasses have burned the remaining substance is
charcoal (ash in it’s finer form). A hot bed of charcoals and ash can enhance the
combustion process when burning larger pieces of wood. Start with a small fire
to develop a bed of glowing embers. As the charcoal bed develops and the
cooker heats up, slowly add larger and larger pieces of wood. It takes time to
build a good charcoal bed, but it is well worth the effort. Only empty excess ash
periodically and always leave a bed of ash on which to light the next fire. When
wood burns it gives off volatile gases which contain calorific heat value.
NOTE
The above text is a guide only. The ideal operation of your cooking stove
depends on a number of factors which vary with each installation. Gaining
experience on your cooking stove is the only way to learn its best operation.
COOKING WITH THE COOK STOVE
The oven and hotplate are heated directly by the fire. In order to heat up the
oven and hotplate, the fire should be lit as described on page 6.
The temperature of the hotplate is graduated from the inside out. Machined
base pans are essential as heat is transferred to them via conduction.
Food may be cooked directly on the hotplate if desired. The bolster lid may be
left down when the hotplate is not in use in order to keep it at a cooking
temperature.

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To increase oven temperatures, refuel the cooker using smaller or drier logs, and
increase the burning rate of the fuel by use of the air control, and regulate to
the desired temperature.
The cookers are equipped with a wire shelf which can be set to the desired
height on the side bricks in the firebox to cook over the embers. The shelf in the
Bakeheart oven has anti-pull out stops on the ends to prevent it from being
pulled out inadvertently; to remove a shelf, pull forward until the stop is
reached, then lift at the front and pull out of the oven. Use reverse procedure
to refit. If the shelves pull straight out then they are in back to front.
The temperature gauge on the oven door provides an indication of the oven
temperature. It should be noted however that since the gauge is attached to the
door, the indicated temperature will drop if the door is left open for a prolonged
period. Once the door is closed the dial will come back up to temperature after
a short delay.
WARNING
If any part of the stove begins to glow it is being over fired. Stop use
immediately and allow to cool before further use.
EXTENDED WOODBURNING
This appliance has not been certified as a slow combustion stove. Loading a large
amount of wood into the cooking stove all at once will reduce the temperature
inside. If the temperature is too low, the gases given off from the wood will be
too low to combust, resulting in a lot of smoke which will cover the inside of the
cooking stove, including the glass, with soot.
In order to avoid adverse combustion conditions it is a good idea to increase the
temperature of the cooking stove before loading more wood by further opening
the air control. Load the wood and leave the air control open until the moisture
is driven out of the wood and the cooking stove is up to an efficient operating
temperature. The air control and the bolster lid can then be closed to hold the
temperature of the cooking stove.

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CLEANING AND MAINTAINANCE
The successful operation of your range cooker is entirely dependent on the
adequate performance (pull) of the chimney or flue to which it is connected. The
following maintenance guidelines will be pointless unless the flue is also
maintained and cleaned regularly. How often it needs cleaning will depend on
the quality and moisture content of the wood you burn but an annual clean is
recommended. A partially blocked or dirty flue can have disastrous implications
for an otherwise perfectly installed cooker.
A healthy flue draught should read between 12 –25 pascals. A flue draught
reading below this value will result in poor smoky performance
Always carry out cleaning procedures when the cooker is unlit and has been
allowed to cool sufficiently to avoid burns. With time and experience you will be
able to gauge the intervals between cleaning more accurately. It will vary
depending on the quality of your firewood and performance of your flue. Take
time to get to know your cooker and inspect it at regular intervals for the first 6
months.
To clean the glass of any built up residue, special cleaning solutions can be used,
or a ball of newspaper dampened and passed through the ash can be used. Do
not use abrasive or chemically aggressive cleaning products on the glass as this
can weaken or stain it.
If any of the chromed components become blue due to excess heat they can be
restored using a chrome cleaner.
When de-ashing the cooking stove only remove small amounts of ash leaving
ideally 30mm depth of ash in the bottom for best performance.

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Figure 10 Under the Hotplate
To clean the flue way of the cook stove the hotplate must be removed. With the
hotplate removed the filter can be removed from its holder and cleaned. To
clean the filter it is recommended that it is just shaken vigorously for 20 seconds
in a plastic bag to catch the particulate. To avoid rust forming on the hotplate
pans should not be stored on top of the cooker when not in use.
Cleaning the Flue
It is recommended that the flue is cleaned at least every 12 months to maintain
a suitable flue draught and prevent poor performance of the cooking stove. It is
essential to maintain the integrity and cleanliness of the flue to ensure that your
cooker continues to perform at its best. When your cooker was installed the
main flue should have been equipped with an inspection hatch. These hatches
are designed to allow periodic access to the flue for inspection & cleaning.

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CONDITIONS OF GUARANTEE
Your ESSE is guaranteed against defects arising from faulty manufacture for
2 years when supplied by an ESSE Specialist.
Upon registration of the warranty, ESSE will extend the guarantee period to
5 years from purchase. Your details must be registered with us by either
returning the completed warranty card or by completing registration on-line
at www.esse.com. The warranty must be registered within 1 month of
installation to qualify for the 5 year warranty.
The appliance must be only used for normal domestic purposes and in
accordance with our instructions, be correctly installed and serviced.
EXCLUSIONS
This guarantee does not cover:
oInstallation
oWear & tear
oParts deemed to be replaceable in the normal usage of the cooker. These
parts are listed herewith: all firebricks, oven accessories, hotplate and
door seals, door glass.
This guarentee is personal to the original purchaser and not transferable.
Any stove or defective part replaced shall become the Company’s property.

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CUSTOMER CARE
In the event you should require spare parts, please order through your ESSE
dealer or by contacting Esse via telephone [phone]) or our website,
www.esse.com.
Should you have cause for dissatisfaction with your cooker, you should
contact your ESSE dealer, who will, in most instances, be able to offer you
immediate assistance. You will be required to give the following details.
oYour name, address and postcode.
oYour telephone/contact details.
oClear and concise details of the fault.
oModel and serial number of the cooker (found on panel at rear).
oPurchase date (please note that a valid purchase receipt or guarantee
documentation is required for in-guarantee service calls).
We will then check that we have an accurately completed warranty card, if
not then any work carried out may be charged.
We will assess the nature of the complaint and either send replacement parts
for your dealer to fit, send an engineer to inspect & report, or send an
engineer to repair. If the fault is not actually due to faulty workmanship but
some other cause such as misuse or failure to install correctly, a charge will
be made to cover the cost of the visit and any new parts required, even
during the warranty period. Home visits are made between 08.30-1700 hrs
Monday to Friday, and are arranged for either a morning or afternoon
appointment.
To dispose of the stove after the product life has expired, please observe the
following information:
oDispose of the items correctly i.e. separate the parts to be disposed of in
material groups.
oAlways dispose of items in a way that is as sustainable as possible and
that is in line with the current environmental protection,
reprocessing/recycling and disposal technology.

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SAFETY NOTES
oProperly installed, operated and maintained, this appliance will not emit
fumes into the dwelling. However, occasional fumes from de-ashing and
re-fuelling may occur.
oPersistent fume emission is potentially dangerous and must not be
tolerated. If fume emission does persist, open doors and windows to
ventilate the room. Let the fire burn out or eject and safely dispose of fuel
from the appliance. Once the fire is cold, check the flue and chimney for
blockages and clean if required. Do not attempt to relight the fire until the
cause of the fume emission has been identified and corrected.
oSeek expert advice if necessary.
oAn adequate air supply for combustion and ventilation is essential. Air
openings provided for this purpose must not be restricted.
oShould it be likely that children, aged, or infirm people approach the
appliance whilst the fire door is open, then a fireguard manufactured in
accordance with BS 8423:2010 should be used. Also warn children not to
sit or stand on the appliance or use it as a ‘step-stool’ for access to
cupboards or shelves etc. above the appliance.
oAvoid the use of aerosol sprays in the vicinity of the cooking stove when
it is in operation and do not heat any unopened airtight containers.
oEnsure that precautions are taken when deep fat frying, never leave the
appliance unattended and ensure you have fire safety equipment
available, such as a fire blanket, in case of emergency.
oWhen operating the cooking stove use the tools provided and follow
these instructions carefully.
oIn the UK, the installer has a responsibility under the Health and Safety
at Work Act 1974 to provide for the safety of persons carrying out the
installation.
oAttention is drawn to the fact that fire cement is caustic and hands must
be washed thoroughly after use.
oThe appliance is heavy and care must be taken during handling.
oAlthough the appliance does not contain asbestos products, it is possible
that asbestos may be disturbed in existing installations and every
precaution must be taken.