Extreme Flight RC EXTRA 300 EXP V2 User manual

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70" EXTRA 300 EXP V2 ARF
Assembly Manual
Copyright 2019 Extreme Flight RC
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Please take a few moments to read this instruction manual before beginning assembly. We
have outlined a fast, clear and easy method to assemble this aircraft and familiarizing
yourself with this process will aid in a quick, easy build.
Please read the following paragraph before beginning assembly
of your aircraft!
THIS IS NOT A TOY! Serious injury, destruction of property, or even death may result
from the misuse of this product. Extreme Flight RC is providing you, the consumer with a
very high quality model aircraft component kit, from which you, the consumer, will
assemble a flying model. It is beyond our control to monitor the finished aircraft you
produce. Extreme Flight RC will in no way accept or assume responsibility or liability for
damages resulting from the use of this user assembled product. This aircraft should be
flown in accordance to the AMA safety code. It is highly recommended that you join the
Academy of Model Aeronautics in order to be properly insured, and to operate your
model at AMA sanctioned flying fields only. If you are not willing to accept ALL liability
for the use of this product, please return it to the place of purchase immediately.
Extreme Flight RC, Ltd. guarantees this kit to be free of defects in materials and
workmanship for a period of 30 DAYS from the date of purchase. All warranty claims
must be accompanied by the original dated receipt. This warranty is extended to the
original purchaser of the aircraft kit only.
Extreme Flight RC in no way warranties its aircraft against flutter. We have put these
aircraft through the most grueling flight tests imaginable and have not experienced any
control surface flutter. Proper servo selection and linkage set-up is absolutely essential.
Inadequate servos or improper linkage set up may result in flutter and possibly the
complete destruction of your aircraft. If you are not experienced in this type of linkage
set-up or have questions regarding servo choices, please contact us at
[e-mail] or 770-887-1794. It is your responsibility to ensure the
airworthiness of your model.
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A few tips to ensure success
1. We are very pleased with the level of craftsmanship displayed by the builders in our
factory. Through hundreds of grueling test flights containing maneuvers that no
aircraft should be subjected to, our prototypes have remained rigid and completely
airworthy. However, it is impossible for us to inspect every glue joint in the aircraft.
Take a few minutes and apply some CA to high stress areas such as servo mounting
trays , landing gear blocks, anti rotation pins, etc.
2. Having survived the journey half way around the world while experiencing several
climate changes, it is not uncommon for a few wrinkles to develop in the covering.
Fear not! These are not manufacturing defects, and are easily removed with a little
bit of heat. Use a 100% cotton tee-shirt and your heat gun and heat the covering
while gently rubbing the covering onto the wood with the t-shirt. Be careful not to
use too much heat as the covering may shrink too much and begin to lift at the
edges. Take your time, and a beautiful, paint like finish is attainable.
3. By the time your aircraft arrives at your door step it will have been handled by a lot
of people. Occasionally there are small dings or imperfections on some of the
surfaces. An effective method to restore these imperfections to original condition is
to use a very fine tipped hypodermic needle to inject a drop of water under the
covering material and into the ding in the wood. Apply heat to the area with a
sealing iron and the imperfection will disappear. Deeper marks may require that
this process be repeated a couple of times to achieve the desired result, but you will
be surprised at how well this technique works.
4. DO NOT SKIMP ON SERVOS! Your aircraft is equipped with very large control
surfaces that deflect over 45 degrees. A lot of servo power is required to prevent
flutter and to maintain the required deflection for maneuvers.
5. Use a high quality epoxy for installing the composite control horns and hinges. We
highly recommend the use of Pacer Z-Poxy 30 minute formula.
6. You may want to add a bead of RC-56 Canopy glue to the intersection of the plastic
canopy/hatch and its wood frame for additional strength and resistance to vibration.
DO NOT USE CA here as it will fog the canopy.
7. Your aircraft is built using very modern construction techniques and is very light
weight for its size. As with any high performance machine, regular inspection and
maintenance is a must. While disassembling your aircraft after a flying session, pay
close attention and inspect glue joints, linkages and loose covering to be sure the
airframe is sound. A few minutes spent doing this will help maintain airframe
longevity.
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Congratulations on your purchase of the version 2 Extreme Flight RC 70 inch Extra 300
EXP ARF!
This aircraft was a huge hit among our customer base when it was originally released
several years ago and we thought it only fair to bring it up to the modern specifications of
our current 30cc aircraft. As such the 70" Extra 300 EXP V2 now shares the ultra
lightweight and rugged laminated composite construction of our other current airframes
and the 2 mini servos previously used for elevator actuation on the V1 version have been
replaced with a single high torque standard size metal gear servo. The V2 version also
features the self aligning stab feature that has become so popular on our recent releases.
The performance ability of the Extreme Flight RC Extra 300 EXP v2 is phenomenal! This
sleek, fast and agile airframe is completely unlimited in its ability to perform the full
range of full stall high alpha maneuvers and aggressive gyroscopic tumbling maneuvers.
The Extra is also a top notch precision and XA aerobatic machine.
We have spent a great deal of time and effort to provide you, the discriminating aerobatic
enthusiast, with the highest quality, most complete package possible. We are very proud of
the end result of our labor and wish you great success with the assembly and flying of
your Extreme Flight RC 70 inch Extra 300 EXP V2!
Your new Extreme Flight Extra 300 includes most necessary hardware with the exception
of a spinner and motor mount. We highly recommend the use of the Extreme Flight
76mm Elite series electric spinner.
You will find a complete pull-pull system, as well as high quality heavy duty ball
links and composite control horns, and a carbon fiber tailwheel assembly.
*****Most of the assembly process for the V2 Extra is identical to the V1 version so most
of the pictures in this manual will be of the V1 version with updated pictures when the
assembly process is different.*****
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Elevator-please note the elevator/stab assembly on the V2 version of
the Extra is now a single piece unit that is permanently glued to
the airframe and uses a single servo for elevator actuation.
1. Locate the horizontal stabilizer/elevator assembly as well as the composite control horns
and base plates from the elevator hardware package. Use a sharp #11 blade to make a cut
in the covering over the 2 slots for the elevator control horns on the bottom of the elevator
surface. Double check to make sure you are cutting into the bottom of the elevator.
2. Insert the 2 control horns into the base plate and trial fit the horns into the slot and
make sure they seat properly against the base and elevator surface. Trace around the
base plate with a felt tipped marker.
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3. Remove the horn assembly and use your #11 blade to remove the covering from inside
the ink line you traced around the control horn base. Wipe away the ink line with a paper
towel soaked in denatured alcohol. Scuff the portion of the horns that will be inserted into
the elevator with sandpaper. Apply 30 minute epoxy to the slots and thoroughly coat the
horns and base plate bottom. Reinsert the assembly into the elevator and wipe away
any excess epoxy with a paper towel and denatured alcohol. Place a 3mm bolt through the
horns to help insure proper alignment and set aside to dry.
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4. In this step I will outline the procedure we use to install the hinges. I have found it best
to hinge the elevator/stab before gluing it into position in the fuselage. There are several
methods to hinge a model and several adhesives you can use. We will describe the way we
do it, as this method has proven itself over many years of model building. If you are new
to this type of hinging process then I recommend that you install a single hinge first just to
acquaint yourself with this method. Before starting the process get a few items together
that will aid you as you proceed. You will need the following items: 30 minute epoxy
(we recommend Pacer Z-Poxy), a scrap piece of pushrod or 1/8” dowel, paper towels and
denatured alcohol. Locate 3 hinges per elevator half. Mix a generous batch of 30 minute
epoxy. Use the pushrod or dowel to thoroughly coat and fill the hinge hole with epoxy,
then coat the hinge with epoxy. Push the hinge into its hole until the joint is about a ¼”
from its final position and use a paper towel to remove the excess epoxy that has been
forced from the hole. Push the hinge the rest of the way in and make sure the hinge pin is
centered in the hinge line. Use some denatured alcohol and a paper towel to remove all
excess epoxy, especially on the hinge pin. When you are satisfied with the result set the
surface aside to dry. Position the drying piece so that any excess epoxy will pool around
the rear of the hinge. When you are comfortable with this process you should be able to
do one side of a surface per batch of epoxy. Glue all hinges into the stabilizer first. After
the glue has set trial fit the elevator to the stab and adjust if necessary. There should be as
little gap as possible between the stab and elevator. When satisfied with the fit remove the
elevator and repeat the gluing process outlined above. Be sure to wipe away all excess
epoxy! Set aside to dry.
5. After the hinges have dried thoroughly, pull on them to make sure they are properly
installed. The hinges will probably feel a little stiff as it is almost impossible to get all of
the glue out of the knuckle joint. Use a fine tipped hypodermic needle and place one (only
one!) drop of acetone on each side of the hinge pin. Move the elevator back and forth a
few times and you will feel it loosen up. Be careful to only use one drop as you don’t want
to weaken the glue joint! Add a drop of penetrating oil to each hinge pin and you will
ensure a smooth operating surface with no binding. Seal the bottom of the hinge gap with
a strip of Ultracote or Blenderm tape. Be sure to fully deflect the control surface when
applying the tape or Ultracote to allow full deflection once the gap is sealed. Before you set
the stabs aside take a moment with your covering iron and go over all of the seams with a
medium heat setting, paying special attention to the ends of thin trim stripes.
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Wing Assembly
6. The assembly process for the wing is almost identical to that of the stab/elevator. For
this reason we will not go into quite as much detail as in the previous procedure. Remove
the aileron from the wing panel. Locate the 2 slots for the control horns and remove
the covering from the slots with a sharp #11 blade. Follow the same procedure as outlined
previously to install the control horns into the control surface and hinge the wing. Repeat
this procedure for the other wing.
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7. Locate the aileron servo mount and remove the covering from this area. Use a sealing
iron to seal the edges of the covering to the sides of the servo opening. Take a few minutes
to apply some CA to the joints of the servo rails and the ribs.
8. Attach a 12” servo extension to your servo and secure with thread or heat shrink
tubing. Use the manufacturer supplied mounting hardware and install the servo with the
output shaft toward the trailing edge of the wing. Electronically center your servo.
Aileron servo arm length should be 1.50”. We recommend the Extreme Flight anodized
servo arms. Thread 2 ball links onto the titanium turnbuckle pushrod. Secure the
pushrod to the control horns and servo arm as shown in the picture using the supplied
3mm bolts and nylon insert locknuts. Make sure to place the conical spacer between the
ball link and aluminum servo arm to prevent binding. As always, use blue Loctite on ALL
bolts!
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9. Before beginning the next assembly process, take a few minutes with your sealing iron
on a medium heat setting and go over all seams, paying special attention to thin trim
stripes and the seam at the leading edge of the wing. If there are wrinkles in the covering
on the leading edge sheeting use a heat gun with a microfiber cloth to remove them and
prevent digging into the wood with an iron. Use caution and avoid excessive heat as you
may cause the Ultracote to shrink too much and lift at the seams. Also take the time to seal
the hinge gaps with Ultracote or Blenderm tape. Clean the wings with Windex and put
them away.
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10. Locate your assembled elevator assembly and the fuselage. Remove the covered block
from the rear of the elevator slot and set it aside. Slide the elevator assembly into the slot
in the rear of the fuselage and check for correct alignment. When satisfied remove the
assembly and apply 30 minute epoxy to the center section of the elevator that will mate
with the fuselage slot. Slide the elevator into position, as far forward as it will go into the
slot and re-check alignment. Wipe away any excess glue and set aside to dry.
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11. Once dry, glue the covered block into place with medium CA or epoxy.
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12. Locate the rudder, the rudder control horns and the 2 base plates. Use a sharp #11
blade to remove the covering from the 2 pre-cut slots in the rudder. Trial fit the 2
servo horns through the slots in the rudder and into their proper position. Measure to
ensure they are centered and mark with a fine tipped felt pen to make it easy to reinstall
properly when epoxy is applied. Remove the control horns and cut away the covering
from the area where the base plates will go as done previously with the aileron and
elevator. Mix up some 30 minute epoxy and use a small blade to fill the 2 slots with epoxy.
Use plenty of epoxy and be sure to completely fill the two slots. Use an epoxy brush to
completely cover the areas on the rudder horns and base plate that will glue into the
rudder. Slide the rudder horns back into their proper position followed by the base plates
and immediately wipe the excess epoxy from the horns. Carefully check and re-check
alignment to insure proper positioning. Use some denatured alcohol and a paper towel to
remove any excess epoxy. Re-check the alignment one more time and set the assembly
aside to dry.
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13. Locate a 2mm ball link from the hardware bag. Drill a hole 2 inches back from the
leading edge of the rudder on the bottom of the rudder surface to accept the shank on the
ball link.
14. Scuff the shaft of the ball link with coarse sandpaper. Mix up a small amount of 5
minute epoxy and apply it to the ball link and the hole in the bottom of the rudder. Push
the ball link into the hole as shown in the picture. Use a little excess epoxy to form a fillet
around the bottom of the ball link. Make sure the hole in the brass ball is aligned front to
rear to accept the tailwheel tiller arm. Go ahead and glue the hinges into the rudder at this
time using the procedure outlined previously.
15. Position the tailwheel assembly on the rear bottom of the fuselage and be sure the
tailwheel wire is aligned with the rudder hinge line. Secure the tailwheel with a couple of
pieces of masking tape while you drill 2 holes with a 1/16” drill bit. Apply a few drops of
thin CA to the holes and allow to dry then secure the assembly to the bottom of the
fuselage as shown with the 2 provided wood screws.
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16. Next we'll install the landing gear. Locate the carbon fiber main landing gear,
4 3mm bolts, lock nuts and washers. Insert the gear into the slot on the bottom of the
fuselage and center it in the slot. Secure the landing gear with 4 3mm bolts, washers and
nylon insert lock nuts by inserting the bolts and washers into the pre-drilled holes in the
aluminum gear mounts inside the fuselage with a long T-handle wrench. Secure with the
3mm nylon insert lock nuts.
17. Locate the landing gear fairings. Slide the fairings over the landing gear and against
the sides of the fuselage. You may need to open the hole in the fairing slightly with a
rotary tool bit for proper fit. Use a pencil to mark the location of the bottom of the fairing
on the landing gear and then
remove the fairing.
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18. Apply a thick bead of silicon glue or epoxy just below your pencil line all the way
around the gear. Slide the fairing back into place and apply masking tape to keep it
in position while the glue dries.
19. Locate the 2 axles, 2 locking nuts, 2 wheels, 2 wheel collars and 2 wheel pants from the
hardware package. Place the wheel onto the axle and secure with a wheel collar. Place
the threaded portion of the axle through the hole in the landing gear and screw the lock
nut onto the axle, but do not tighten completely. There is a slot pre-cut in the wheel pant
to allow it to fit over the axle. Slide the wheel pant into position over the axle and tighten
the nut on the axle, taking care to make sure the wheel pant is positioned properly. When
satisfied with the position of the wheel pants, drill a 1/16" hole though the plywood plate
that is glued inside the pant at the location of the hole in the landing gear. Secure the pant
in position with a single wood screw. Repeat this process for the remaining wheel pant.
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20. While the Extra is still upside down let’s install the rudder and finish up the tailwheel
installation. Apply 30 minute epoxy to the holes in the rudder post and to the rudder
hinges. As you position the rudder onto the vertical fin, be sure the tailwheel tiller arm is
inserted into the ball link. Push the rudder into position and wipe away any excess epoxy
with a paper towel and denatured alcohol.
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