Extreme Flight 78" EXTRA 300 ARF User manual

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78" EXTRA 300 ARF
Instruction Manual
Copyright 2009 Extreme Flight RC

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Please take a few moments to read this instruction manual before beginning assembly. We
have outlined a fast, clear and easy method to assemble this aircraft and familiarizing
yourself with this process will aid in a quick, easy build.
Please read the following paragraph before beginning assembly
of your aircraft!
THIS IS NOT A TOY! Serious injury, destruction of property, or even death may result
from the misuse of this product. Extreme Flight RC is providing you, the consumer with a
very high quality model aircraft component kit, from which you, the consumer, will
assemble a flying model. However it is beyond our control to monitor the finished aircraft
you produce. Extreme Flight RC will in no way accept or assume responsibility or liability
for damages resulting from the use of this user assembled product. This aircraft should be
flown in accordance to the AMA safety code. It is highly recommended that you join the
Academy of Model Aeronautics in order to be properly insured, and to operate your
model at AMA sanctioned flying fields only. If you are not willing to accept ALL liability
for the use of this product, please return it to the place of purchase immediately.
Extreme Flight RC, Ltd. guarantees this kit to be free of defects in materials and
workmanship for a period of 30 DAYS from the date of purchase. All warranty claims
must be accompanied by the original dated receipt. This warranty is extended to the
original purchaser of the aircraft kit only.
Extreme Flight RC in no way warranties its aircraft against flutter. We have put these
aircraft through the most grueling flight tests imaginable and have not experienced any
control surface flutter. Proper servo selection and linkage set-up is absolutely essential.
Inadequate servos or improper linkage set up may result in flutter and possibly the
complete destruction of your aircraft. If you are not experienced in this type of linkage
set-up or have questions regarding servo choices, please contact us at
[email protected] or 770-887-1794. It is your responsibility to ensure the
airworthiness of your model.

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A few tips to ensure success
1. We are very pleased with the level of craftsmanship displayed by the builders in our
factory. Through hundreds of grueling test flights containing maneuvers that no
aircraft should be subjected to, our prototypes have remained rigid and completely
airworthy. However, it is impossible for us to inspect every glue joint in the aircraft.
Take a few minutes and apply some medium CA to high stress areas such as servo
mounting trays , landing gear blocks, anti rotation pins, etc.
2. Having survived the journey half way around the world while experiencing several
climate changes, it is not uncommon for a few wrinkles to develop in the covering.
Fear not! These are not manufacturing defects, and are easily removed with a little
bit of heat. Use a 100% cotton tee-shirt and your heat gun and heat the covering
while gently rubbing the covering onto the wood with the t-shirt. Be careful not to
use too much heat as the covering may shrink too much and begin to lift at the
edges. Take your time, and a beautiful, paint like finish is attainable.
3. By the time your aircraft arrives at your door step it will have been handled by a lot
of people. Occasionally there are small dings or imperfections on some of the
surfaces. An effective method to restore these imperfections to original condition is
to use a very fine tipped hypodermic needle to inject a drop of water under the
covering material and into the ding in the wood. Apply heat to the area with a
sealing iron and the imperfection will disappear. Deeper marks may require that
this process be repeated a couple of times to achieve the desired result, but you will
be surprised at how well this technique works.
4. DO NOT SKIMP ON SERVOS! Your aircraft is equipped with very large control
surfaces that deflect over 45 degrees. A lot of servo power is required to prevent
flutter and to maintain the required deflection for maneuvers. We absolutely
recommend the use of METAL GEARED servos with a minimum of 120 oz. in of
torque.
5. Use a high quality epoxy for installing the composite control horns and hinges. We
highly recommend the use of Pacer Z-Poxy 30 minute formula. We have used this
glue for many years with zero failures. Recently we have been experimenting with
Pacer Hinge Glue and are very pleased with the results and ease of application and
clean up.
6. You may want to add a bead of silicone glue (Pacer Zap-A-DAP-A-GOO, etc.) or
RC-56 Canopy glue to the intersection of the plastic canopy/hatch and its wood
frame for additional strength and resistance to vibration. DO NOT USE CA here as
it will fog the canopy.
7. Your aircraft is built using very modern construction techniques and is very light
weight for its size. As with any high performance machine, regular inspection and
maintenance is a must. While disassembling your aircraft after a flying session, pay
close attention and inspect glue joints, linkages and loose covering to be sure the
airframe is sound. A few minutes spent doing this will help maintain airframe
longevity.

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Congratulations on your purchase of the Extreme Flight RC 78 inch Extra 300 ARF!
This aircraft is unique in that it is being offered in two versions: A gas/glow version and a
dedicated electric version to satisfy the growing legions of electric power enthusiasts.
There are subtle differences in the construction of these two versions to accommodate the
installation of the chosen power systems. The gas version can be effectively powered by
any of the numerous glow engines in the 1.40-1.80 class or with a 30cc-40cc gas engine.
The electric version will perform best when powered with a 2500-3000 Watt power system
on 8S or 10S Lithium Polymer batteries. Either version will allow you to perform
tournament level maneuvers with an economical power plant, allowing you to experience
the performance and stability of a much larger aircraft at a considerable savings.
The Extreme Flight Extra 300 is loaded with unique features, including first rate
hardware and components and thorough instructions to ensure a trouble free assembly
and set-up. Weight saving components are used throughout, such as carbon fiber
structural reinforcement, carbon fiber wing and stab mounting tubes, aluminum landing
gear, titanium pushrods and a carbon fiber tail wheel assembly, all ensuring the lightest,
most high performance aircraft possible.
You will notice there is a box built into the bottom of the glow/gas version of the Extra’s
fuselage. This is a pipe tunnel and will accommodate most canister mufflers and tuned
pipes sold for the current makes of 30-40cc gas engines.
The performance ability of the Extreme Flight RC Extra 300 is phenomenal! This sleek,
fast and agile airframe is completely unlimited in its ability to perform the full range of
full stall high alpha maneuvers and aggressive gyroscopic tumbling maneuvers. The Extra
is also a top notch precision aerobatic machine. It is capable of performing the entire FAI
catalog of maneuvers and it has the kind of “big plane” presence in the air that will
impress the judges. This makes the 78 inch Extra a great candidate for IMAC
competition.
We have spent a great deal of time and effort to provide you, the discriminating aerobatic
enthusiast, with the highest quality, most complete package possible. We are very proud of
the end result of our labor and wish you great success with the assembly and flying of
your Extreme Flight RC 78 inch Extra 300!

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Your new Extreme Flight 50cc Extra 300 includes most necessary hardware with the
exception of a spinner and electric motor mount. We highly recommend the use of the
Extreme Flight 76mm Elite series electric spinner.
You will find a complete pull-pull system, as well as high quality heavy duty ball
links, titanium turnbuckle pushrods and composite control horns, and a carbon
fiber tailwheel assembly.
The bonded sealing washers are used when mounting the cowl and
canopy/hatch (the electric version uses a spring loaded dual hatch latch configuration).
When the bolts used to retain the canopy/hatch and cowl are
tightened against the bonded sealing washer, the rubber on the washer
compresses, preventing the bolt from backing out. The rubber on the washer
also protects the surface of the cowl. Tighten the bolts until the rubber
compresses, but do not allow the metal part of the washer to make contact with
the cowl.
For best results, remove all set screws from the tailwheel assembly and
disassemble the unit. File flat spots on the tailwheel wire so that all set screws
will seat properly. Place a drop of blue Loctite on all set screws and re-insert
them into their holes.

Elevator
1. Locate the horizontal stabilizer/elevator assemblies as well as the composite control
horns and base plates from the elevator hardware package. Use a sharp #11 blade to
make a cut in the covering over the 2 slots for the elevator control horns on the bottom of
the elevator surface. Double check to make sure you are cutting into the bottom of the
elevator.
2. Insert the 2 control horns into the base plate and trial fit thehorns into the slot and
make sure they seat properly against thebase and elevator surface. Trace around the
base plate with a felt tipped marker.
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3. Remove the horn assembly and use your #11 blade to remove the covering from inside
the ink line you traced around the control horn base. Wipe away the ink line with a paper
towel soaked in denatured alcohol. Scuff the portion of the horns that will be inserted into
the elevator with sandpaper. Apply 30 minute epoxy to the slots and thoroughly coat the
horns and base plate bottom. Reinsert the assembly into the elevator and wipe away
any excess epoxy with a paper towel and denatured alcohol. Place a 3mm bolt through the
horns to help insure proper alignment and set aside to dry. Repeat for the other elevator
half.
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4. In this step I will outline the procedure we use to install the hinges. There are several
ways to do this and several adhesives you can use. We will describe the way we do it, as
this method has proven itself over many years of model building. If you are new to this
type of hinging process then I recommend that you install a single hinge first just to
acquaint yourself with this method. Before starting the process get a few items together
that will aid you as you proceed. You will need the following items: 30 minute epoxy
(we recommend Pacer Z-Poxy), a scrap piece of pushrod or 1/8” dowel, paper towels and
denatured alcohol. Locate 3 hinges per elevator half. You will need to cut 1 hinge just
beyond the second knuckle to clear the fiberglass tube socket in the stabilizer.
Insert the carbon fiber wing tube into the socket while testing for proper hinge length to
avoid damaging the fiberglass sleeve. Mix a generous batch of 30 minute epoxy. Use the
pushrod or dowel to thoroughly coat and fill the hinge hole with epoxy, then coat the
hinge with epoxy. Push the hinge into its hole until the joint is about a ¼” from its final
position and use a paper towel to remove the excess epoxy that has been forced from the
hole. Push the hinge the rest of the way in and make sure the hinge pin is centered
in the hinge line. Use some denatured alcohol and a paper towel to remove all excess
epoxy, especially on the hinge pin. When you are satisfied with the result set the surface
aside to dry. Position the drying piece so that any excess epoxy will pool around the rear
of the hinge. When you are comfortable with this process you should be able to do one
side of a surface per batch of epoxy. Glue all hinges into the stabilizer first. After the glue
has set trial fit the elevator to the stab and adjust if necessary. There should be as little
gap as possible between the stab and elevator. When satisfied with the fit remove the
elevator and repeat the gluing process outlined above. Be sure to wipe away all excess
epoxy! Set aside to dry. Repeat this process for the other stab/elevator half.
5. After the hinges have dried thoroughly, pull on them to make sure they are properly
installed. The hinges will probably feel a little stiff as it is almost impossible to get all of
the glue out of the knuckle joint. Use a fine tipped hypodermic needle and place one (only
one!) drop of acetone on each side of the hinge pin. Move the elevator back and forth a
few times and you will feel it loosen up. Be careful to only use one drop as you don’t want
to weaken the glue joint! Add a drop of penetrating oil to each hinge pin and you will
ensure a smooth operating surface with no binding. Seal the bottom of the hinge gap with
a strip of Ultracote or Blenderm tape. Be sure to fully deflect the control surface when
applying the tape or Ultracote to allow full deflection once the gap is sealed. Repeat this
process for the other stab/elevator assembly. Before you set aside the stabs take a moment
with your covering iron and go over all of the seams with a medium heat setting, paying
special attention to the ends of thin trim stripes. At this point clean the 2 elevator/stab
assemblies with Windex and set them aside.

Wing Assembly
6. The assembly process for the wing is almost identical to that of the stab/elevator. For
this reason we will not go into quite as much detail as in the previous procedure. Remove
the aileron from the wing panel. Locate the 2 slots for the control horns and remove
the covering from the slots with a sharp #11 blade. Follow the same procedure as outlined
previously to install the control horns into the control surface and hinge the wing. Repeat
this procedure for the other wing.
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7. Locate the aileron servo mount and remove the covering from this area. Use a sealing
iron to seal the edges of the covering to the sides of the servo opening. Take a few minutes
to apply some CA to the joints of the servo rails and the ribs.
8. Attach a 12” servo extension to your servo and secure with thread or heat shrink
tubing. Use the manufacturer supplied mounting hardware and install the servo with the
output shaft toward the trailing edge of the wing. Electronically center your servo.
Aileron servo arm length should be 1.50”. We use and recommend the SWB double lock
aluminum arms. Thread 2 ball links onto the titanium turnbuckle pushrod. Secure the
pushrod to the control horns and servo arm as shown in the picture using the supplied
3mm bolts and nylon insert locknuts. As always, use blue Loctite on ALL bolts!
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9. Before beginning the next assembly process, take a few minutes with your sealing iron
on a medium heat setting and go over all seams, paying special attention to thin trim
stripes and the seam at the leading edge of the wing. If there are wrinkles in the covering
on the leading edge sheeting use a heat gun with a 100% cotton t-shirt to remove them and
prevent digging into the wood with an iron. Use caution and avoid excessive heat as you
may cause the Ultracote to shrink too much and lift at the seams. Also take the time to seal
the hinge gaps with Ultracote or Blenderm tape. Clean the wings with Windex and put
them away.
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Rudder and tailwheel assembly and mounting
10. Locate the rudder, the rudder control horns and the 2 slotted base plates. Use a sharp
#11 blade to remove the covering from the 2 pre-cut slots in the rudder. Trial fit the 2
servo horns through the slots in the rudder and into their proper position. Measure to
ensure they are centered and mark with a fine tipped felt pen to make it easy to reinstall
properly when epoxy is applied. Remove the control horns and cut away the covering
from the area where the base plates will go as done previously with the aileron and
elevator. Mix up some 30 minute epoxy and use a small blade to fill the 2 slots with epoxy.
Use plenty of epoxy and be sure to completely fill the two slots. Use an epoxy brush to
completely cover the areas on the rudder horns and base plate that will glue into the
rudder. Slide the rudder horns back into their proper position and immediately wipe the
excess epoxy from the horns. Carefully check and re-check alignment to insure proper
positioning. Use some denatured alcohol and a paper towel to remove any excess epoxy.
Re-check the alignment one more time and set the assembly aside to dry.
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11. Locate a 2mm ball link from the hardware bag. Drill a hole 2 inches back from the
leading edge of the rudder on the bottom of the rudder surface to accept the shank on the
ball link.
12. Scuff the shaft of the ball link with coarse sandpaper. Mix up a small amount of 5
minute epoxy and apply it to the ball link and the hole in the bottom of the rudder. Push
the ball link into the hole as shown in the picture. Use a little excess epoxy to form a fillet
around the bottom of the ball link. Make sure the hole in the brass ball is aligned front to
rear to accept the tailwheel tiller arm. Go ahead and glue the hinges into the rudder at this
time using the procedure outlined previously.
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13. While this dries let’s prepare the tailwheel assembly and get it mounted. First
disassemble the tailwheel assembly.

14. Use a rotary tool with a grinding bit or a small file to create a flat spot on the tailwheel
wire for the set screws in the aluminum fittings to seat against. Reassemble the unit and
apply Loctite to the threads on the setscrews and reinsert into the aluminum fittings and
tighten snug. Slide the tailwheel onto the wire and secure with the included wheel collar.
15. Position the tailwheel assembly on the rear bottom of the fuselage and be sure the
tailwheel wire is aligned with the rudder hinge line. Secure the tailwheel with a couple of
pieces of masking tape while you drill 2 holes with a 1/16” drill bit. Apply a few drops of
thin CA to the holes and allow to dry then secure the assembly to the bottom of the
fuselage as shown with the 2 provided coarse thread wood screws and 2 washers.
Fuselage Assembly
16. We’ll begin by installing the landing gear. Locate the aluminum main landing gear,
4 3mm bolts, lock nuts and washers. Insert the gear into the slot on the bottom of the
fuselage and center it in the slot. Secure the landing gear with 4 3mm bolts, washers and
nyloninsert lock nuts by inserting the bolts and washers into the pre-drilled holes in the
aluminum gear mounts inside the fuselage with a long T-handle wrench. Secure with the
3mm nylon insert lock nuts.
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17. Locate the 2 fiberglass landing gear fairings and the black neoprene tubing. Use a
sharp hobby blade and cut through one wall of the tubing horizontally along the length of
the tubing. Press the tubing onto the edges of the fairing as shown and secure with thin
CA. Make sure the seam is on the rear side of the fairing.
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18. Slide the fairings over the landing gear and against the sides of the fuselage. You may
need to open the hole in the fairing slightly with a rotary tool bit for proper fit. Use a
pencil to mark the location of the bottom of the fairing on the landing gear and then
remove the fairing.
19.Apply a thick bead of silicon glue or epoxy just below your pencil line all the way
around the gear. Slide the fairing back into place and apply masking tape to keep it
in position while the glue dries.
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20. Locate the 2 axles, 2 locking nuts, 2 wheels, 2 wheel collars and 2 wheel pants from the
hardware package. Place the wheel onto the axle and secure with a wheel collar. Place
the threaded portion of the axle through the hole in the landing gear and screw the lock
nut onto the axle, but do not tighten completely. There is a slot pre-cut in the wheel pant
to allow it to fit over the axle. Slide the wheel pant into position over the axle and tighten
the nut on the axle, taking care to make sure the wheel pant is positioned properly.

When satisfied with the position of the wheel pants, drill a 1/16" hole though the plywood
plate that is glued inside the pant at the location of the hole in the landing gear. Secure
the pant in position with a single wood screw. Repeat this process for the remaining wheel
pant.
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21. While the Extra is still upside down let’s install the rudder and finish up the tailwheel
installation as well as opening the exit hole for the incoming air that cools the batteries.
Apply 30 minute epoxy to the holes in the rudder post and to the rudder hinges. As you
position the rudder onto the vertical fin, be sure the tailwheel tiller arm is inserted into the
ball link. Push the rudder into position and wipe away any excess epoxy with a paper
towel and denatured alcohol. Use a #11 blade to remove the covering from the panel in
the bottom of the fuselage as shown in the following picture. Seal the edges of the covering
to the airframe with a sealing iron.
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