Extreme Flight F3A User manual

V
ELECTRIC ARF
ANQUISH F3A
Instruction Manual
©Copyright 2007 EXTREME FLIGHT RC, Ltd.

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Thank you for your purchase of the Extreme Flight RC Vanquish F3A Electric ARF.
This aircraft was designed to provide maximum performance and fun in a great looking,
lightweight, fully aerobatic park flyer. Using an inexpensive and efficient brushless
outrunner motor and speed controller and a single high discharge 4S1P Lithium Polymer
battery, the Vanquish F3A provides unlimited precision aerobatic performance capability.
Great care was taken to design a light weight yet robust airframe. Expert engineering
and modern laser cutting methods in conjunction with a carbon fiber wing tube and
composite control horns keep weight to a minimum. Unique features such as the 2 piece
plug in wings, pre-mounted canopy and spring loaded canopy/hatch latch make for quick
easy assembly and instantaneous access to the interior of the plane and battery tray. The
Vanquish F3A can truly be assembled in an evening-buy it one day, fly it the next!
As with all Extreme Flight RC airplanes, the proof is in the flying! The Vanquish flies
precision aerobatics remarkably well and allows you to practice your AMA pattern or
FAI F3A sequence almost anywhere. The long tail moment makes for a plane that tracks
like a 2 meter pattern ship and the lightweight wings minimize over rotation in snaps. On
a calm day you’ll be amazed at how well this thing flies the sequences.
Of course the Vanquish will perform most all of the common 3D moves, but its true
calling is precision aerobatics.
Sport flyers fear not! With reduced rates the Vanquish is a very easy plane to fly. Its
super light wing loading allows it to land at a walk. It will instill confidence and allow
you to improve your flying skills. When you’re ready for more advanced aerobatics, flip
the dual rate switch and hang on!
As with any high performance aerobatic aircraft, great care must be taken to avoid
excess speed. Excess speed will lead to control surface flutter and quite possibly the
complete destruction of your aircraft. Don’t let this happen to you! Always have the
motor at idle when the airplane is pointed down and reserve full throttle for vertical
climbs. Make sure you have adequate mechanical advantage in your control linkage set-
up. If you are unsure about this, have a more experienced flyer look over your set-up
before flying. Extreme Flight RC, Ltd. in no way warranties its aircraft against flutter.
As with all of our planes, we put the Vanquish through a rigorous flight testing regime
and have not experienced any control surface flutter. It is your responsibility to ensure
the airworthiness of your aircraft.
The Vanquish was designed around the Torque 2814T/820 Brushless Outrunner motor
and Airboss Elite 45 Amp ESC with SBEC. This is the best choice for powering the
Vanquish, providing plenty of power for any maneuver imaginable. Other outrunner
motors in this class will work as well but may require slight modification to the motor
mount.
The Vanquish is very easy to assemble. Take a few minutes to read this manual before
beginning assembly to get familiar with the process.

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Tips for Success-Please read before beginning assembly!!!
1. Read the instruction manual thoroughly before starting assembly.
2. We are very pleased with the level of craftsmanship exhibited by the workers in
our factory. However, these are mass produced models. As with any ARF, take a
few minutes to go over the model and add CA to high stress areas or any joints
that appear to need more glue. Specific areas to pay attention to are servo
mounts, landing gear mounting plate, firewall to fuselage side joint, wing root rib
and motor box joints. A few minutes and a few drops of CA will help to insure
the longevity of your model.
3. Make sure your prop and spinner are balanced! These aircraft perform as well as
they do because they are built light. Excess vibration caused by unbalanced
components can cause damage to the airframe.
4. Buy a Watt meter! For less than the cost of a single battery pack you can
purchase one of these. This will save you a lot of time, money and frustration and
provide you with a lot of valuable information about your set up. One battery
pack saved is worth this investment!
5. Observe the C rating of your batteries. If your battery is rated at 2100 mah and
20C continuous discharge rate then you can safely pull 42000 mah or 42 Amps
from it (2100 x 20= 42000 mah=42 Amps). Use a watt meter between your
battery and ESC to determine the number of Amps you are drawing as well as the
number of Watts you are generating. I have found it is best for battery longevity
if your maximum amp draw at wide open throttle is in between the continuous
rating and the burst rating of the battery. Prop your airplane accordingly.
6. We have done a lot of experimenting with various props. Using the Torque
2814T/820 on 4S we like the APC 12x6E and 12x8E. Depending on your
elevation you may or may not like these choices, but they should be a good
starting point. Remember to test each new prop with a Watt meter attached to the
system to be sure you are not overworking any of the components.
7. DO NOT OMIT INSTALLATION OF THE CARBON STAB
REINFRCEMENTS!!!!!!!
8. Decals- clean your airplane with glass cleaner and a paper towel before starting to
apply the decals. Mist the area where the decal will be applied with glass cleaner
or water mixed with a little bit of soap. Use scissors to remove the decal from the
sheet. For best results cut as close to the edges of the decal as possible. Position
the decal in place and use a credit card or rubber squeegee to push the excess
liquid from under the decal and allow to dry. You may need to secure the edges
of the decal with masking tape to prevent them from rolling up until the solution
has dried and evaporated.

Wing assembly
1. Locate a wing panel. Check to see that all hinges are centered between the wing
and aileron. Hold the aileron fully deflected and apply a drop of thin CA to
each hinge. Flip the wing over and repeat.
2. Use a #11 hobby blade to remove the covering over the servo bay. Install the
aileron servo using the manufacturer supplied mounting screws. You will need
to attach a 6 inch extension to the servo lead. Route the servo lead out of the
root of the wing.
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3. Locate the composite aileron control horn, aileron pushrod with z-bend and ez-
connector. Remove the covering over the mounting hole for the control horn
with your #11 blade. Scuff the part of the control horn that will glue into the
aileron slot with fine sandpaper. Glue the control horn in place with medium
CA. Electronically center your servo and mount the ez-connector to the servo
arm. Place the z-bend in the aileron control horn and the other end of the wire
into the hole in the ez-connector. Center the aileron and tighten the screw in the
top of the ez-connector to retain the aileron pushrod wire. Use a small file to
grind a flat spot on the pushrod wire so that the set screw will seat properly and
maintain a firm grip on the pushrod wire. See picture.
4. Repeat this procedure for the other wing.
That’s it! You are done with the wings!
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Fuselage Assembly
5. Let’s mount the landing gear first. Locate the aluminum landing gear, (4) 3mm
machine screws, (2) park flyer axles, (2) nylon insert lock nuts, (2) wheel
collars, (2) wheel pants, (2) wheels and (2) plywood squares with slots from the
hardware package. Use medium CA to glue the plywood square to the inside of
each wheel pant, centered in the wheel pant.
6. Make a slot in the wheel pant using the slot in the ply plate as a guide. It should
be big enough to slide over the threaded portion of the axle.
7. Place the wheel on the axle followed by the wheel collar. Slide the wheel pant
over the axle with the retention ring inside the wheel pant. This ring will keep
the wheel pant in place with friction. Insert the threaded portion of the axle into
the hole in the end of the landing gear leg and secure with the nylon insert lock.
Please see the picture on the next page for detail.
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8. Open the gear slots in the side of the fuselage with a sharp hobby knife.
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9. Insert the gear legs through the slots and retain with the (4) 3mm bolts and
washers. Make sure to put a drop of blue Loctite on the bolt threads. The gear
legs should sweep toward the rear of the plane.
10. Locate the motor box, triangle motor box supports, and motor. Attach the radial
mount to your motor and install the bolt on prop adapter. Although it is
pictured differently here, it is easier to install the motor before gluing the motor
box in place. Use the included 3mm socket head cap screws and nylon insert
locknuts and washers to install the motor onto the front of the motor box. Insert
the tabs on the motor box into the slots in the F1 former. Use medium CA to
secure the motor box to the F1 former. Make sure to apply CA to all joints on
both sides of the F1 former as well as all joints in the motor box.
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11. Add the 2 triangle support pieces to the motor box and secure with medium CA.
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12. Open the horizontal stabilizer mounting slot in the rear of the fuselage with a
sharp hobby knife.
13. Insert the elevator into the slot in the rear fuselage side. It must be inserted
upside down with the counter balances facing the rear of the plane, then it can
be rotated into the proper position. Please see photo for detail.
14. Insert the carbon fiber wing tube into the fiberglass sleeve in the fuselage and
slide both wings onto the tube. Make sure the root rib of the wing is flush
against fuselage.
15. Insert the horizontal stabilizer into its slot. Compare the horizontal stab to the
wing and insure that they are parallel. Trim or shim the slot as needed to insure
proper alignment. When satisfied with the alignment, glue the horizontal stab in
place with CA.
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16. Slide the elevator onto the hinges in the horizontal stab and glue in
place with thin CA. Make sure the elevator is fully deflected when you apply
the CA to insure maximum elevator travel is achievable.
17. Slide the vertical fin into its slot being careful to make sure the fin is properly
aligned with the wing and stab and rear of fuselage. Once satisfied with
alignment secure with CA.
18. Locate the aluminum tailwheel bracket, pre-bent tailwheel wire, and small
collar. Insert the wire through the bracket and place the collar as shown and
tighten the setscrew. It is best to file a flat spot on the wire for the setscrew to
seat against.
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19. Bend the wire with needle nose pliers as shown.
20. Drill a hole in the leading edge of the rudder to accept the wire and notch the
leading edge of the rudder for the vertical portion of the wire. Mount the
tailwheel bracket on the bottom of the fuselage as shown using 2 of the small
wood screws. Put a drop of medium CA on each screw to secure. Slide the
rudder onto the hinges and onto the wire.
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21. Secure the rudder hinges with thin CA
22. Locate the elevator control horn. Use a sharp hobby knife to remove the
covering from the elevator horn slot.
23. Glue the elevator horn in place with medium CA or epoxy. Make sure to scuff
the surface of the control horn before gluing.
24. Use a #11 blade to remove the covering from the elevator servo slot. Soak the
mounting area with thin CA. Install the servo using the manufacturer supplied
mounting hardware. You will need to attach a 24 inch servo extension to the
servo before installation.
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25. Place an ez-connector on the servo arm. Locate the elevator pushrod and insert
the z-bend into the phenolic control horn and the other end into the ez
connector. You may need to open the hole in the phenolic control horn slightly.
Be careful not to over enlarge the hole. Electronically center the servo and then
tighten the set screw in the ez connector to clamp down on the pushrod, while
making sure the elevator is in the neutral position. Make sure to file a flat spot
on the pushrod to allow the set screw to seat properly and maintain a firm grip
on the pushrod wire. IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU USE A METAL
GEAR SERVO FOR THE ELEVATOR!!!!!! We highly recommend the Hitec
HS-65MG. If you plan to fly precision aerobatics only, I recommend using the
short servo arm to allow for maximum servo resolution and a very positive and
accurate elevator actuation.
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26. Locate the (2) .060 carbon fiber reinforcement rods. Use a drill bit with a pen
vise to open holes in the outer leading edge of the stab and in the solid wood
part of the bottom rear of the fuselage as shown.
27. Use medium CA or epoxy to secure the rods into position as shown in the
photos. Make sure alignment is correct before gluing. DO NOT OMIT THESE
REINFORCEMENTS!!!
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28. Use a #11 blade to remove the covering from the slot near the bottom of the
rudder. Locate the composite control horn for the rudder. Scuff the control
horn to remove the glossy finish and glue into place in the slot in the rudder. Be
sure to center the horn in the slot.
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29. Mount the rudder servo as shown inside the fuselage. Use the supplied
hardware to assemble the pull-pull cable system. There are 2 plastic guide tubes
in the rear of the fuselage to accept the pull-pull cables. These tubes are located
just below the elevator servo location. Make a hole in the covering where the
tubes exit the fuselage and insert the pull-pull cable. At the rudder control horn
end, the cable will be threaded through the control horn and secured with a
small aluminum tube which is crimped around the cable as pictured in the
photo. At the servo end, the cable is threaded through the hole in the connector
as shown, secured with a crimp and then inserted into the ez connector. Center
the servo electronically and make sure the rudder is in the neutral position.
Tighten the set screw in the ez connector. Make sure the cables are taut, but not
overly tight, which may cause the servo to bind. Please see series of photos
below for more detail.
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30. Mount the ESC with Velcro or nylon cable ties behind the motor inside the
motor box. Insert the gold bullet connectors from the motor into the female
connectors on the ESC. Secure the wires with a nylon cable tie to prevent them
from touching the rotating case of the motor.
31. Place the canopy/hatch in place on the fuselage and make sure it is positioned
properly. Slide the cowling into place. The rear of the cowl should be flush
with the rear of the F1 former. Make sure the prop shaft is centered in the cowl
opening. You may want to install the spinner at this time to insure that the cowl
is properly positioned. We recommend using a 2” spinner for the Vanquish (we
like the Great Planes 2” spinner with lightened aluminum backplate). View the
cowl from the front, top and sides and when satisfied with the position, secure
the cowl with masking tape. There should be 3/32” space between the spinner
backplate and front of the cowl. Use a small drill bit mounted in a pin vise to
drill through the cowl and into the mounting tabs. You can view through the
openings in the front of the cowl to make sure you are drilling into the center of
the tab. Use the 4 small mounting screws with large heads to secure the cowl.
32. Install the receiver at the rear of the battery tray using Velcro. Use Velcro to
secure the battery to the battery tray and use a Velcro strap around the battery.
33. Use the supplied nylon bolts to secure the wings to the fuselage. They insert
from inside the fuselage through the hole behind the wing tube and into the blind
nut in the root rib of the wing. Tighten until snug.
34. The battery should sit right in front of the receiver. Adjust the location of the
battery to achieve proper CG.
This concludes the assembly of the Vanquish F3A.
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Radio Set-up and flight tips.
CG range for the Vanquish is from 4.50”- 4.75” from the leading edge of the wing
measured at the wing root. Correct CG should be easy to achieve by moving the
battery along the length of the battery tray. Adjust to fit your flying style.
Control surface recommendations are as follows:
Elevator- 10 degrees low rates, 45+ degrees high rates.
Rudder- 15 degrees low rates, 45+ degrees high rates.
Aileron- 20 degrees low rates, 35+ degrees high rates.
Use exponential function to achieve the best “feel” for your particular flying style. I
highly recommend that you take the time to set up rates for precision flying and
separate rates for 3D. The Vanquish is capable of flying very precise maneuvers, and
proper rates and CG will allow you to experience this to the fullest extent. Trying to
fly precision aerobatics with 3D rates is an exercise in futility. Spend some time
dialing in and trimming your plane and you will be rewarded with a great flying
experience.
Thanks again for your business!
See you at the flying field!
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