Extreme Flight EDGE 540T EXP User manual

EDGE 540T
ELECTRIC ARF
Instruction Manual
©Copyright 2006 EXTREME FLIGHT RC, Ltd.

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Thank you for your purchase of the Extreme Flight RC Edge 540T Electric ARF. This
aircraft was designed to provide maximum performance and fun in a realistic looking,
lightweight, fully aerobatic park flyer. Using an inexpensive and efficient brushless
outrunner motor and speed controller and a single high discharge 3S1P Lithium Polymer
battery, the Edge 540T provides unlimited performance capability.
Great care was taken to design a light weight yet robust airframe. Expert engineering
and modern laser cutting methods in conjunction with a carbon fiber wing tube and
composite control horns keep weight to a minimum. Unique features such as the ram air
equipped motor box, 2 piece plug in wings, and magnetically retained canopy/hatch make
for quick easy assembly and instantaneous access to the interior of the plane and battery
tray. The Edge 540T can truly be assembled in an evening-buy it one day, fly it the next!
As with all Extreme Flight RC airplanes, the proof is in the flying! The Edge 540T
flies precision aerobatics remarkably well and allows you to practice your IMAC
sequence almost anywhere. The slightly stretched fuselage makes for a plane that tracks
like a pattern ship and the lightweight wings minimize over rotation in snaps. On a calm
day you’ll be amazed at how well this thing flies the sequences.
If 3D is your thing then strap in! The Edge 540T really excels here! Beautiful, slow
high alpha knife edge passes. FLAT spins both upright and inverted, rock solid elevators
and harriers, and a wicked wing tip spin! Tremendous aileron authority and insane roll
rate from the massive ailerons.
Sport flyers fear not! Just because you’re not a 3D hot dogger or IMAC flyer doesn’t
mean you can’t enjoy the Edge 540T. With reduced rates the Edge is a very easy plane to
fly. Its super light wing loading allows it to land at a walk. It will instill confidence and
allow you to improve your flying skills. When you’re ready for more advanced
aerobatics, flip the dual rate switch and hang on!
As with any high performance aerobatic aircraft, great care must be taken to avoid
excess speed. Excess speed will lead to control surface flutter and quite possibly the
complete destruction of your aircraft. Don’t let this happen to you! Always have the
motor at idle when the airplane is pointed down and reserve full throttle for vertical
climbs. Make sure you have adequate mechanical advantage in your control linkage set-
up. If you are unsure about this, have a more experienced flyer look over your set-up
before flying. Extreme Flight RC, Ltd. in no way warranties its aircraft against flutter.
As with all of our planes, we put the Edge through a rigorous flight testing regime and
have not experienced any control surface flutter. It is your responsibility to ensure the
airworthiness of your aircraft.
The Edge was designed around the Torque 2818T/900 Brushless Outrunner motor and
Airboss 35 Amp ESC. This is the best choice for powering the Edge, providing plenty of
power for any maneuver imaginable. Other outrunner motors in this class will work as
well but may require slight modification to the motor mount.
The Edge is very easy to assemble. Take a few minutes to read this manual before
beginning assembly to get familiar with the process.

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Tips for Success-Please read before beginning assembly!!!
1. Read the instruction manual thoroughly before starting assembly.
2. We are very pleased with the level of craftsmanship exhibited by the workers in
our factory. However, these are mass produced models. As with any ARF, take a
few minutes to go over the model and add CA to high stress areas or any joints
that appear to need more glue. Specific areas to pay attention to are servo
mounts, landing gear mounting plate, firewall to fuselage side joint, wing root rib
and motor box joints. A few minutes and a few drops of CA will help to insure
the longevity of your model.
3. Make sure your prop and spinner are balanced! These aircraft perform as well as
they do because they are built light. Excess vibration caused by unbalanced
components can cause damage to the airframe.
4. Buy a Watt meter! For less than the cost of a single battery pack you can
purchase one of these. This will save you a lot of time, money and frustration and
provide you with a lot of valuable information about your set up. One battery
pack saved is worth this investment!
5. Observe the C rating of your batteries. If your battery is rated at 2100 mah and
20C continuous discharge rate then you can safely pull 42000 mah or 42 Amps
from it (2100 x 20= 42000 mah=42 Amps). Use a watt meter between your
battery and ESC to determine the number of Amps you are drawing as well as the
number of Watts you are generating. I have found it is best for battery longevity
if your maximum amp draw at wide open throttle is in between the continuous
rating and the burst rating of the battery. Prop your airplane accordingly.
6. We have done a lot of experimenting with various props. Using the Torque
2818T/900 on 3S we like the APC 12x6E and 13x6.5E. Depending on your
elevation you may or may not like these choices, but they should be a good
starting point. Remember to test each new prop with a Watt meter attached to the
system to be sure you are not overworking any of the components.
7. Decals- clean your airplane with glass cleaner and a paper towel before starting to
apply the decals. Mist the area where the decal will be applied with glass cleaner
or water mixed with a little bit of soap. Use scissors to remove the decal from the
sheet. For best results cut as close to the edges of the decal as possible. Position
the decal in place and use a credit card or rubber squeegee to push the excess
liquid from under the decal and allow to dry. You may need to secure the edges
of the decal with masking tape to prevent them from rolling up until the solution
has dried and evaporated.

Wing assembly
1. Locate a wing panel. Check to see that all hinges are centered between the wing
and aileron. Hold the aileron fully deflected and apply a drop of thin CA to each
hinge. Flip the wing over and repeat.
2. Use a #11 hobby blade to remove the covering over the servo bay. Install the
aileron servo using the manufacturer supplied mounting screws. Route the servo
lead out of the root of the wing.
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3. Locate the composite aileron control horn, aileron pushrod with z-bend and ez-
connector. Remove the covering over the mounting hole for the control horn with
your #11 blade. Scuff the part of the control horn that will glue into the aileron
slot with fine sandpaper. Glue the control horn in place with medium CA.
Electronically center your servo and mount the ez-connector to the servo arm.
Place the z-bend in the aileron control horn and the other end of the wire into the
hole in the ez-connector. Center the aileron and tighten the screw in the top of the
ez-connector to retain the aileron pushrod wire. Use a small file to grind a flat
spot on the pushrod wire so that the set screw will seat properly and maintain a
firm grip on the pushrod wire. See picture.
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4. Repeat this procedure for the other wing.
That’s it! You are done with the wings!
Fuselage Assembly
5. Lets mount the landing gear first. Locate the aluminum landing gear, (2) 3mm
machine screws, (2) park flyer axles, (2) nylon insert lock nuts, (2) wheel collars, (2)
wheel pants, (2) wheels and (2) plywood squares from the hardware package. Use
medium CA to glue the plywood square to the inside of each wheel pant, centered in
the wheel pant. Make a slot in the wheel pant and ply plate big enough to slide over
the threaded portion of the axle. Place the wheel on the axle followed by the wheel
collar. Slide the wheel pant over the axle with the retention ring inside the wheel
pant. This ring will keep the wheel pant in place with friction. Insert the threaded
portion of the axle into the hole in the end of the landing gear leg and secure with the
nylon insert lock. Please see the picture on the next page for detail.
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6. Place a drop of blue Loctite on the threads of the 3mm landing gear mounting bolts
and insert them through the landing gear and into the pre-installed blind nuts in the
landing gear plate.
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7. Locate the motor box. Insert the tabs on the motor box into the slots in the F1
former. Use medium CA to secure the motor box to the F1 former. Make sure to
apply CA to all joints on both sides of the F1 former as well as all joints in the motor
box. You may need to bevel the top front edge and corners of the motor box with a
sanding block for proper cowl fit. Do a trial fit of the cowl before installing the
motor.
8. Add the 2 triangle support pieces to the motor box and secure with medium CA.
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9. Use scissors to remove the air scoops from the plastic sheet.
10. Use medium CA to secure the scoops to the side of the motor box as shown in the
photo.
11. Locate the horizontal stab. Trial fit the stab into its slot in the rear of the fuselage
and use a felt tipped marker to mark where the covering will need to be removed
from the horizontal stab. Remove the stab and use a sharp #11 blade to remove
the covering where the stab will mate to the fuselage to insure a good wood to
wood bond. Do not glue the stab in place at this time!
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12. Insert the elevator into the slot in the rear fuselage side. It must be inserted upside
down with the counter balances facing the rear of the plane, then it can be rotated
into the proper position. Please see photo for detail.
13. Insert the carbon fiber wing tube into the fiberglass sleeve in the fuselage and
slide both wings onto the tube. Make sure the root rib of the wing is flush against
fuselage.
14. Re-insert the horizontal stabilizer into its slot. Compare the horizontal stab to the
wing and insure that they are parallel. Trim or shim the slot as needed to insure
proper alignment. When satisfied with the alignment, glue the horizontal stab in
place with CA.
15. Slide the elevator onto the hinges in the horizontal stab and glue in place with thin
CA. Make sure the elevator is fully deflected when you apply the CA to insure
maximum elevator travel is achievable.
16. Slide the vertical fin into its slot and mark where the covering needs to be
removed. Remove the fin and use a #11 blade to carefully remove the covering
from the lower portion of the fin to insure a wood to wood joint. Re-insert the
stab and secure with CA, being careful to make sure the fin is properly aligned
with the wing and stab and rear of fuselage. Attach rudder to the vertical fin
using the 3 supplied hinges and thin CA.
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17. Locate the elevator control horn and glue in place with medium CA or epoxy.
Make sure to scuff the surface of the control horn before gluing. Use a #11 blade
to remove the covering from the elevator servo slot and install the servo using the
manufacturer supplied mounting hardware. Place an ez-connector on the servo
arm. Locate the elevator pushrod and insert the z-bend into the phenolic control
horn and the other end into the ez connector. Electronically center the servo and
then tighten the screw in the ez connector to clamp down on the pushrod, while
making sure the elevator is in the neutral position. Make sure to file a flat spot on
the pushrod to allow the set screw to seat properly and maintain a firm grip on the
pushrod wire. You may need to put a small bend in the pushrod. We have had
great success with the Hitec HS-65 and the JR 281.
18. Use a #11 blade to remove the covering from the slot near the bottom of the
rudder. Locate the composite control horn for the rudder. Scuff the control horn
to remove the glossy finish and glue into place in the slot in the rudder. Be sure
to center the horn in the slot.
19. Mount the rudder servo as shown inside the fuselage. Use the supplied hardware
to assemble the pull-pull cable system. There are 2 plastic guide tubes in the rear
of the fuselage to accept the pull-pull cables. Locate these tubes using these
pictures as guides. Make a hole in the covering where the tubes exit the fuselage
and insert the pull-pull cable. At the rudder control horn end, the cable will be
threaded through the control horn and secured with a small aluminum tube which
is crimped around the cable as pictured in the photo. At the servo end, the cable
is threaded through the hole in the connector as shown, secured with a crimp and
then inserted into the ez connector. Center the servo electronically and make sure
the rudder is in the neutral position. Tighten the screw in the ez connector. Make
sure the cables are taut, but not overly tight, which may cause the servo to bind.
Please see series of photos below for more detail.
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20. Drill a small hole in the bottom of the rudder and insert the pre-bent tailwheel
wire into place. Use a piece of strapping tape to secure the tailwheel wire to the
rudder as shown. Slide the tailwheel onto the wire and retain with the small
wheel collar.
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21. Use the supplied 3mm bolts and washers to mount the motor to the mounting
plate. Put a drop of blue Loctite on the mounting bolts, place a washer on the bolt
and insert through the front of the motor mounting plate and into the threaded
holes in the face of the motor. Tighten firmly, being careful not to crush the
phenolic doubler.
22. Mount the ESC with Velcro or nylon cable ties behind the motor inside the motor
box. Insert the gold bullet connectors from the motor into the female connectors
on the ESC. Secure the wires with a nylon cable tie to prevent them from
touching the rotating case of the motor.
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23. Soak the cowl mounting tabs with thin CA
24. Place the canopy/hatch in place on the fuselage and make sure it is positioned
properly. Slide the cowling into place. The rear of the cowl should be flush with
the rear of the F1 former. Make sure the prop shaft is centered in the cowl
opening. You may want to install the spinner at this time to insure that the cowl is
properly positioned. We recommend using a 2” spinner for the Edge (we like the
Great Planes 2” spinner with lightened aluminum backplate). View the cowl from
the front, top and sides and when satisfied with the position, secure the cowl with
masking tape. Use a small drill bit mounted in a pin vise to drill through the cowl
and into the mounting tabs. You can view through the openings in the front of the
cowl to make sure you are drilling into the center of the tab. Use the 4 small
mounting screws with large heads to secure the cowl.
25. Slide the included collet style prop adapter onto the motor shaft and attach the
spinner and prop.
26. Install the receiver at the rear of the battery tray using Velcro. Use Velcro to
the battery to the battery tray and use a Velcro strap around the battery.
27. Use the supplied nylon bolts to secure the wings to the fuselage. They insert
from inside the fuselage through the hole behind the wing tube and into the blind nut in
the root rib of the wing. Tighten until snug.
28. The following photo shows the location of the battery and receiver in our Edge.
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29. Remove the covering from the bottom of the fuselage as shown to allow cooling
air to escape from the fuselage.
This concludes the assembly of the Edge 540T.
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Radio Set-up and flight tips.
CG range for the Edge 540T is from 3”- 3.5” from the leading edge of the wing
measured at the wing root. Correct CG should be easy to achieve by moving the
battery along the length of the battery tray. Adjust to fit your flying style.
Control surface recommendations are as follows:
Elevator- 10 degrees low rates, 45+ degrees high rates.
Rudder- 20 degrees low rates, 45+ degrees high rates.
Aileron- 20 degrees low rates, 45+ degrees high rates.
Use exponential function to achieve the best “feel” for your particular flying style. I
highly recommend that you take the time to set up rates for precision flying and
separate rates for 3D. The Edge 540T is capable of flying very precise maneuvers,
and proper rates and CG will allow you to experience this to the fullest extent.
Trying to fly precision aerobatics with 3D rates is an exercise in futility. Spend some
time dialing in and trimming your plane and you will be rewarded with a great flying
experience.
Thanks again for your business!
See you at the flying field!