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If this type of cleaning is done while the paint is still wet in the gun, it
should be all that is necessary to keep the gun clean enough for next time.
Do not leave liquids in the cup overnight or for long periods. The Gravity
Gun can be cleaned without hooking up to the hose. Simply wind out the
fluid knob all the way and pull the trigger - the thinner (solvent) will
stream out of the fluid nozzle. Repeat until clean.
PLEASEDO NOT USEAWIREBRUSH ORANYTHING METALTO CLEAN
THE GUN OR CUPAS THIS WILLCAUSE DAMAGE.
DO NOT dissassemble the cup assembly - threads in your cup have
been sealed at the factory to prevent leakage under pressure.
The standard 1 quart (1000cc) cup can be used with most coatings
(including water-based). Also available as an accessory is our 2041T
teflon-coated cup. The 2041T can be used for water-based products.
CAUTION: Never soak the complete spraygun in solvent as this removes
the grease from the parts and distributes thinned paints throughout the air
passages. It could also damage internal parts such as the spindle valve
8021 or valve seals 8025. It may however, be necessary sometimes to
soak the front barrel in thinner. Please remove nylon parts before soaking.
You may soak only the metal parts in solvent and clean with the soft
bristle cleaning brush 9045. To reassemble, first oil or grease all moving
and threaded parts.
CAUTION: Do not store the gun with the cup clamped down hard as this
will cause the gasket to flatten out. Do not lay the gun down on its side
with liquid material in it.
PRESSUREPOT USE
To use the gun with a pressure pot, remove the cup assembly 2042 and
the pressurizing tube 2024. Connect your material line (fluid hose) to the
fluid coupler 8005 on the gun. Because you are using air from the turbine,
you must block off the air that would normally go from the pressure pot to
the gun. This can be capped with a brass threaded cap or the coupler can
be removed and a threaded brass plug inserted. Also, a cap must be
placed over the nipple to prevent air escaping - this plastic cap - Part
2023B is available from Fuji. Then attach the turbine hose to the hose
connector 8034 in the regular way.
ACOMPRESSOR IS NEEDED TO PRESSURIZE THE POT.
Set the compressor to between 6-8 PSI. This is enough to push the paint
material up to the gun. For spraying at greater heights (over 8 feet), more
fluid pressure may be necessary. The fluid pressure should never be set
at more than 20 PSI. If you find a higher pressure is needed, we advise
you to check the material hose for paint blockage.
FINISHPROBLEMS
ORANGE PEEL - If the finish is rough and resembles orange peel then the
material is too thick. (Or perhaps you have the air control valve turned down
- please check that it is fully open). The ‘paint’ will not atomize properly and
the surface will be spotty. To remedy this, add more thinner (or appropriate
solvent). For fast drying products such as lacquers, you may also want to
add a lacquer retarder. This will slow the drying time allowing the material
to flow out and level nicely.
Retarders are available for other coatings too, such as Penetrol for oil-
based paints or Floetrol for latex house paints. These products go under
different names such as Flow-Out Additives etc. Please check with the
coatings manufacturer.
NOTE: With the newer water-based materials ‘orange peel’ is usually a
result of spraying on too thick a film. Try spraying an extremely THIN FILM,
but still WET coat. With most other coatings, orange peel is caused by
material being too thick or not enough atomizing power. This is why we
suggest leaving the air control valve fully open when experimenting with a
new coating material, otherwise it will cause confusion. If the the air control
valve is fully open (or perhaps removed for Latex spraying) then orange
peel can only be one cause - the material is too thick and must be thinned.
GRITTY FINISH - If the material is too thin, it is likely to run or be over-
atomized, producing a rough gritty finish. Try thinning the product less and
spraying a wetter coat.
BLUSHING - Blushing is the common term used when the finish looks
cloudy and white (sometimes also called blooming). It is caused by
moisture and is especially a problem when operating high pressure spray
equipment. The moisture comes from the compressor. This problem does
not usually occur when using the Fuji turbine because the air from the
turbine is warm, dry and uncontaminated. However, it is possible on very
humid days to encounter slight blushing. Using a retarder will often allow
moisture to escape, preventing the milky look.
FISH EYES - If you are refinishing furniture or pianos, fish eyes could
become a problem. The cause is usually silicone or oil from polish which
has been liquified by the paint stripper that has now soaked into the bare
wood. This silicone prevents the lacquer from adhering to the wood. One
way to sometimes correct this is to seal in the silicone by misting on two or
three light coats of lacquer. Then spray on a regular wet coat. We do not
recommend the use of a product known as ‘Fish-Eye Drops’ which is
essentially liquid silicone. Silicone will only contaminate the gun even
further. Anything that comes into contact with the silicone becomes
contaminated - such as; rags, aprons, bench tops, gloves.