FuzzDog Supa-J User manual

Supa-J
Bringing the Reeves Electro
fuzz to the masses
Contents of this document are ©2023 Pedal Parts Ltd.
No reproduction permitted without the express written
permission of Pedal Parts Ltd. All rights reserved.
in collaboration with

Important notes
If you’re using any of our footswitch aughterboar s,
DOWNLOAD THE DAUGHTERBOARD DOCUMENT
•Download and read the appropriate build document for the daughterboard
as well as this one BEFORE you start.
•DO NOT solder the supplied Current Limiting Resistor (CLR) to the main
circuit board even if there is a place for it. This should be soldered to the
footswitch daughterboard.
POWER SUPPLY
Unless otherwise stated in this document this circuit is designed to be
powered with 9V DC.
COMPONENT SPECS
Unless otherwise stated in this document:
•Resistors should be 0.25W. You can use those with higher ratings but
check the physical size of them.
•Electrolytics caps should be at least 25V for 9V circuits, 35V for 18V
circuits. Again, check physical size if using higher ratings.
LAYOUT CONVENTIONS
Unless otherwise stated in this document, the following are used:
•Electrolytic capacitors:
Long leg (anode) to square pad.
•Dio es/LEDs:
Striped leg (cathode) to square pad. Short leg to square pad for LEDs.
•ICs:
Square pad indicates pin 1.

Schematic + BOM
R1 1M
R2 10
R3 4 7
R4 68
R5 33
R6 8 2
R7 470R
R8 68R
C1 22n
C2 10n
C3 10n
C4 100n
C5 100p
C6 330p
C7 22n
C8 33n
C9 22u elec
C10 1n
C11 100u elec*
D1 1N5817
D2-3 BAT46
Q1 2N2222A
Q2 BC108
Q3 BC108C
ATT 1 C
LEV 50 A
S1 SPDT ON-ON
S2 3PDT ON-ON
S1 switches between C3 and C4, changing the voicing
S2 does quite a lot, switching between Supa-J and Marshall Supa-Fuzz modes
*C11 needs to mount horizontally due to the height issues with the 3PDT.

PCB layout ©2023 Pedal Parts Ltd.
The power and signal pads on the PCB conform
to the FuzzDog Direct Connection format, so can
be paired with the appropriate daughterboard for
quick and easy offboard wiring. Check the
separate daughterboard document for details.
Be very careful when soldering the diodes and
transistors. They’re very sensitive to heat. You
should use some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip
or reverse action tweezers) on each leg as you
solder them. eep exposure to heat to a
minimum (under 2 seconds).
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can
be mounted flush in the box.
You should solder all other board-mounted
components before you solder the pots and
switches. Once they’re in place you’ll have no
access to much of the board. Make sure your
pots all line up nicely.
The best way to do that is to solder
a single pin of each pot in place then melt and
adjust if necessary before soldering in the other
two pins.
See page 7 before you sol er the pots an
toggles - there’s a little fi ling to o to get
things line up nicely.
There are extra power pads in case you want to have your DC socket at the top of the enclosure.

Pesky tall switches,
messing with the plan...
Mount C11 as shown, above D3, R5 and R7.
If you mount it normally then it’ll likely stop the
enclosure from closing due to the extra height
required for the 3PDT toggle switch.
There are no rules. Whatever works man.
A little note on DC sockets
If you’ve opted for a top mount DC, you’ll have received
a mini two-pin socket.
The longer pin is your +.
That is all.

Getting things straight...
Unfortunately we have to deal with the extra height of the
3PDT toggle switch when getting the controls lined up.
It’s not hard, just a little fiddly.
You need to solder the 3PDT in place before the other
switch and pots.
Your switch may have some spacer ridges on the bottom
edge, between the metal lugs. If you’re handy with
needle-nosed pliers you can try removing this to give you
an extra millimetre. If not, don’t sweat it. There’s plenty of
play in the other parts we’re dealing with.
Solder the switch, ensuring it is completely straight in all
directions - you don’t want a wonky toggle. Make sure you
have the internal nut in place on the thread, just above the
switch body.
Once in place, you can add your pots. The pins will not be
fully located through the PCB when the pots line up with
the toggle.
Do the same with the SPDT. You have a couple of options
with this one. You can either locate the lugs partially
through the PCB rather than fully, so you have more of
the switch on the enclosure surface. Or you can locate it
fully into the PCB and wind the internal nut much further
up the thread so it lines up with that on the 3PDT.
That all likely sounds much more complicated than it is.
Just line things up.

Test the board!
Check the relevant aughterboar ocument for more
info before you un ertake this stage.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will troubleshooting help
be offere if you have skippe this stage. No exceptions.
Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on the switch and LED
wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this stage, but it
doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what? You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.
Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND, IN and OUT. Connect
IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a small
amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the 9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!
If you’re using a ribbon cable you can tack the wires to the ends of that. It’s a lot easier to take them
off there than it is do desolder wires from the PCB pads.
If it works, carry on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At least you know the problem is
with the circuit. Find out why, get it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.
Your complete circuit boar
inclu ing pots

Now’s the time
to refer to the
daughterboard
document for
your chosen
bypass method.
Enjoy your pedal!

This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your
enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.
Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.
FuzzDog.co.uk
Recommended drill sizes:
Pots 7mm
Jacks 10mm
Footswitch 12mm
DC Socket 12mm
Toggle switches 6mm
32mm
Drilling template
without battery - side DC
Hammond 1590B - 60 x 111 x 31mm
It’s a good idea to drill the pot and
toggle switch holes 1mm bigger i
you’re board-mounting them.
Wiggle room = good!
16mm

Recommended drill sizes:
Pots 7mm
Jacks 10mm
Footswitch 12mm
DC Socket 12mm
Toggle switches 6mm
32mm
Drilling template
without battery - top DC
Hammond 1590B - 60 x 111 x 31mm
It’s a good idea to drill the pot and
toggle switch holes 1mm bigger i
you’re board-mounting them.
Wiggle room = good!
16mm
24mm